Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook

[JC w KC redux]

Several notes about the Goal Posts...

South Goal Post - though there are no bolts for protection, I would call this route 5.5 rather than 4th class.

North Goal Post - the climbing route is on the North Face and not the East face as described in the guidebook.  There are two ways to do this route.  You can scramble down a poison oak infested gully on the north side of the formation and begin by climbing a mossy water streak with big holds for about 25' to the shoulder of the formation and a bolt on
the right.  From there climb up and left to the obvious weakness and the second bolt.

Another way to do this route is to traverse right 10' from the big ledge between the two goal posts to the second bolt and go up from there.

Thanks for the heads up Bruce - yes I have found 4th class to be a BS rating - I never trust it.
Another PO infested obscurity - perfect! Option 2 sounds good except Brad will tell me I haven't done the route

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

A couple of notes from the Hanging Valley.

On the Wad I would mention that the fixed pin which 'protects' (and I use that term loosely) the crux of the 5.5 route is basically worthless(a very poorly placed ring wafer) making this route in the 'R' or 'X' category.  I would add to watch out for poison oak at the base of the climb.

On Teeter Tower, I would add that the 5.6 route on the east side takes gear in the crack up to 1.5"  Also, there is a poison oak bush at the top of the crack in the original route.

On the Driver, I would add that this is basically an unprotected boulder problem.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Couple of things:

Please note that there is a poison oak bush at the base of Sorcerer's Slab (I washed my rope twice-didn't see the bush as I was rapping in from the top!....where there is still no anchor).

There appears to be only one bolt (now three with the new rap anchor) on top of Teeter Tower.  The lone bolt is at the top of the crack of 'Obvious'.  There is no bolt at the top of the 'Original.'

[waldo]

My friend Frosty and I replaced the upper three protection bolts(first bolt was already a 5-piece Rawl/Poers) on Rightfoot in December 2002.  At the time there was not a second bolt at the last bolt.  My guess is that after Brad and crew did Scragglepuss in 2006 he updated the topo.  So the second bolt was added sometime between 2002 and 2006.
It's a 5-piece Rawl/Powers.  I didn't look at it closely to see if it was plated or SS.

I think Bruce has this right. I placed only Stars back in the day and I certainly didn't put in a lower anchor.

[Brad Young]

I added corrections 29 and 30 today (regarding the routes Lion's Head and Holiday Ordeal).

[mungeclimber]

10d? 

Someone is doing it wrong.

[Brad Young]

Someone is doing it wrong.

Nope.

Shortly after you reported the route (top-rope, 5.10a) I repeated it. I thought it was a little stiff for 5.10a, and that therefore, 5.10a was just the right rating  

Since then I've done or tried it with both Dawsons about two years ago and then again yesterday with Gavin. Both Dawsons (known lightweights, BTW - but don't tell 'em I said that) thought it was really hard. Yesterday I stopped climbing it, since I was warming up and it was too much for a warmup. Then Gavin struggled on it but got it. Fifteen minutes later he walked up The Verdict.

Go try it yourself again (maybe that Sunday of M.O.M.?). One huge hold is still about to come off.

[mungeclimber]

where are you starting from?

Is the it the start holds, or holds in the lower middle?

[Brad Young]

where are you starting from?

Is the it the start holds, or holds in the lower middle?

Move up Ordeal maybe 10 or 15 feet and then follow the line of least resistance up and very, very slightly right to the Ordeal intermediate anchor. The line to climb is clear.

The hardest part of it is the middle (the part that starts after leaving Ordeal but before the intermediate ledge that allows a no-hands rest).

[mungeclimber]

Try starting on the bottom left, independent of the 10-15 feet up you describe.

[Brad Young]

Try starting on the bottom left, independent of the 10-15 feet up you describe.

In other words, stay a little further left. Yeah, we tried that.

Remember, I did do it at about 5.10a years ago. It isn't that now.

I will gladly belay you on it during M.O.M. If you can find any way to climb it then that is easier than 5.10d, I will buy you a beer (real or kool-aid type). Or give you a pair of pants 

[clink]

10d sit start?

[mungeclimber]

The three bolt cluster was declustered by Mucci.

stumbled across my pic of what the Ridge Rock mess used to look like.

[JC w KC redux]

Thursday 7-16-15 I noticed an anchor bolt that's not on the topo. The route is The Love Handles #220. The topo shows one anchor bolt. There are two on the summit. One looks just like the belay bolt at the base of the climb - a wedge bolt and a squarish blue tinted hanger (undoubtedly the original single bolt anchor). The 2nd bolt appears to be a 5 pc Rawl with no washer, on an SMC hanger. I can't see any ridges on the bolt head but the resolution of my pic isn't super sharp. There is no rust on the bolt or hanger. Anyone know why people remove the washers from bolts?   

[mynameismud]

they stay dryer?
 

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Route #261 - South Face of South Yak

Pitch #1 - has three bolts and one fixed pin.  The fixed pin looks to actually be a homemade angle iron bolt hanger pounded into a crack.  The climbing may only be 5.4 but it is very, very loose at the top.  Two-bolt anchor with quick links and rings.  90' rap.

Pitch #2 - eight bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with quick links and rings.

Pitch #3 - looks like at least 4 bolts (with the same swaged cable hangers) heading out and right in a horizontal groove feature.  It looks like this pitch is trying to reach the very prominent black water streak on the upper part of the southeast face.  We didn't have time to go out on the bolts and look, but from the top of South Yak there is no indication that the route actually tops out.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Brad,

Rather than suggest that the belay for the top of the 2nd pitch for Daedulus use the first bolt of the 7-bolt ladder and some gear, I would suggest that they use the belay at the top of Drop Zone, etc.  It is a much better belay location and much safer with all the loose rock on that ledge that could rain down on the trail below.

[mungeclimber]

Brad,

Rather than suggest that the belay for the top of the 2nd pitch for Daedulus use the first bolt of the 7-bolt ladder and some gear, I would suggest that they use the belay at the top of Drop Zone, etc.  It is a much better belay location and much safer with all the loose rock on that ledge that could rain down on the trail below.

Zactly!

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

The topo for Freedom Dome says 125' for rapping off.  If you use the bolts and chains that we put up in 1995 and rap straight down it is 80'.

[JC w KC redux]

The topo for Freedom Dome says 125' for rapping off.  If you use the bolts and chains that we put up in 1995 and rap straight down it is 80'.

Bruce - that is correction #18 in the list on page 1. It says 95 feet but you are right - I know there was more than a few feet left when Julius and I rapped that with a 60m last year.