TRIP REPORT: Conduit To The Cosmos, Anchor Updates

[Gavin]

A week ago (Sunday, December 3), Brad and I finally got around to improving the anchor set-up for the second belay station on Conduit To The Cosmos. After warming up on the first pitch of Lava Falls, we geared up for Conduit. Both of us had brought an assortment of chains and quick links, so we had plenty of equipment. I led us up the two pitches to the anchor for the second belay station, and we changed out the faded webbing for a pretty bomber, equalized chain and quick link set-up. On the way down, Brad also added a bit of chain to the leftmost of the two hangers on the first pitch anchor set-up, equalizing load to both bolts (though we both felt a third bolt set between the two older ones is warranted for placement in the near future).

Here are some pics from the adventure; enjoy!


Gavin leading the first pitch.


Gavin on lead, near the first pitch crux.


The second belay station anchor, with faded webbing. (Plus Gavin's QuickFix on the left.)


Gavin disapproves.


Brad cutting out the second belay station webbing… Note the piece he is holding out. The bleached white webbing used to be black!


The new and improved second belay station anchor set-up.


Now BradGav approved and certified!


The update to the first belay station anchor.

[Brad Young]

Just looked at your report with Jim. Well done report. I love the humor - I had no idea that you were taking the self portraits   He loves the cleanup. He asked me to post that, yes, the first pitch belay needs to be upgraded.

[mynameismud]

BradGav = bomber!

[F4?]

What about the missing bolts on the 2nd pitch?

[Gavin]

At least one bolt is still missing, at the old, Barbella second belay station location (to the right of and below the current, massive boulder belay station). I don't recall other missing bolts... Many of the bolts / hangers could no doubt use an update, but generally I didn't feel they were lacking or too suspect. As mentioned in previous posts, the most heads-up part of the second pitch to me was the somewhat loose rock that becomes apparent near the top of the pitch, especially near all those boulder holds.

[joe]

nice job guys...
agree that the top of the second pitch felt the sketchiest, lots of flexing and loose rock with some distance below your feet to the bolt, traversing from the right to the big boulder on the left felt adventurous as well...

[F4?]

The ones that Jim forgot to add??

[Brad Young]

We got Ron Skelton on Lava Falls today. He led both pitches and was blown away.

Also, Alan and I replaced the tat on top of the first pitch of The Powers That Be with three chain lengths that are almost as well equalized as the ones Gavin and I placed on top of the second pitch of Conduit. They are camouflaged.

And what used to be the belay at the top of the second pitch of Conduit (the one bolt with another, hangerless one to the right) isn't pre McConachie. It was the original anchor placed by John Barbella as it got dark on the day of the FA. Jim later moved it higher since on top of the lodestone seemed to make better sense.

Today I was able to clear my head some.

Edit: I corrected the name of the route that Alan and I put chains on (that'll teach me to go by memory). It's The Powers That Be (Dennis and I put chains on No Sense of Measure many years ago).

[squiddo]

Nice read, pict and work. BradGav is alone worth it.

[Gavin]

Brad: that's great that you and Alan updated the first pitch anchor of The Powers That Be... I've been wanting to try that route. How was it for you?

And thanks for the clarity on the second pitch anchor of Conduit... Obviously my phrasing in regards to the hangerless bolt was a bit muddled!

[mungeclimber]

We got Ron Skelton on Lava Falls today. He led both pitches and was blown away.

cool!

[mynameismud]

There is a chance I might drive down in the morning.  Will everyone still be climbing Sunday?

[Brad Young]

Yes, we'll be climbing Sunday. Please join us. There is, however a 30% chance of showers. Likely climbing Balconies.

[Brad Young]

Oh, and Gavin, it's full value 5.11, although not as sustained and pumpy as Conduit. Both Alan and I fell at the crux multiple times but then got it clean on toprope. We didn't do the second pitch either - with the Inn at the Pinnacles start, time for a warmup, and short days... well you get the picture. We may get on it again tomorrow to try for redpoints.

[mynameismud]

Will not make it.  First inspection is Tuesday, to much work to do.

[F4?]

Brad, please do some soft brushing of the holds.