Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[Brad Young]

...FULL SIZE pics of swelling.

Um, that's pretty clearly J.C.'s department 

[waldo]

Those "Sisters" bees have always minded their own business when I've passed through their neighborhood. May it always bee so.

[clink]

Triplex can also be utilized to equip a Glue-In anchor using the same hole size for both bolts. Triplex bolts are reusable!

What is the intent?

[clink]

Found it under the 10mm glue in descrip.

When placed properly in good stone glue-in bolts are the strongest anchors available. Patience and experience are required when installing glue-in bolts. The mixing and installation of the glue is the key to a correctly placed glue-in. This type of bolt works excellent in soft or pocketed stone. Although not widely used in the US glue-in bolts are common in Europe.
The 10mm bolts require a 12mm or 1/2" diameter hole.

If you have questions regarding glue-in bolts or their placement please feel free to contact us.

The FIXE Triplex removable Bolt can be placed in the same hole as the 10mm glue-in while establishing a route- which can be especially helpful in severely overhanging areas.

[Max]

Looks like this one was hanger #3.
Interesting since the FA on the route is 1939 and this catalog is from '68.

The pitons on Scout appear to be the #1 Ring angles shown on the left.

I've got a batch of those old ring angles! It was some of my first climbing pro. I think they are 50s surplus, totally bomber!

[climberdude]

Today I added two painted rappel chains to the two rappel ring hangers on Middle Tower of Machete Ridge (I call it "Middle Tower Continuation" (5.5) since that is what Dave Rubine called it.  The two rappel rings hangers are over the edge, so it has always been very difficult to pull the rope.  Now it is much easier.  Note that as you start to rappel, it appears that you are pulling only against the left chain, but as you descend further, the pull equalizes onto both chains.

I watched a party of three climb "Cuidado" (5.10c)  today.  I have never seen anyone climb this.  They were probably unaware of the request to climb this route only on weekdays due to its position directly over the Balcones Caves.  I watched them for quite a long time.  No yells of "Rock" so I assume they did not pull anything loose.

[JC w KC redux]

Thanks Mark.
I'll get it on the Master List tomorrow 

How were the rap stations on the descent looking?

[climberdude]

The rap bolts and hangers in the gully look great, solid enough that I trusted to use them as a rope solo anchor for the climb "Barber's Backside".  I did notice that the left anchor at the top of the ridge appeared to wobble a very small bit in the hole.  This is not one of the recently installed rappel anchors, but rather at the saddle where the gully descent begins and "Middle Tower Continuation" starts.  It is probably ok for now, but will probably have to be replaced in the future.  I think this is a Rawl 5-piece.

I removed some webbing, cord, and an old D-carabiner from the tree in the meadow where people mistakenly rappel down instead of doing the 4th class ledge traverse.  I have been tempted to make a laser engraved stainless steel tag to put around this tree directing climbers to the correct way to descend rather than rappelling from this tree.

The holds on "Middle Tower Continuation" were well chalked, so climbers beside me have been up there despite the ban on climbing the entire west side of Machete Ridge.  I assume they are approaching this either by "Fish Breath Arete" or the descent gully plus "Barber's Backside".

On another note, I noticed that there is an old 1/4" bolt stud on the climb "Barber's Backside" (5.6) that is at the base the steeper headwall that has the two replaced bolts, i.e., below the two replaced bolts.  I wonder if this was a belay anchor bolt since it is on a slight ledge and is at a low position that can only be used now as a starting foothold from the ledge?  Does anyone know if this bolt is original to the climb?  If this is an original bolt, it would be nice to replace it since from the current belay of the two rappel rings far below, the first replaced bolt is quite high.

It was exciting and scary to watch the three climbers on "Cuidado!".  I have never seen this route being climbed before.  I did warn hikers I saw to be aware of the climbers above.

[JC w KC redux]

Hey Mark,

Barber's as I understand it is more of a utility route fpor rescues. It doesn't climb very well and you are right - the first bolt is a ways up and the rock is very mossy and dirty. Probably why Kat and I did not see the old 1/4 inch bolt. There is a belay bolt at the very tippy top of the gully - left of where the climbing up the face for Barber's starts. Did you see that one?

As far as I'm concerned, any old 1/4 inch bolt is fair game to be replaced unless it serves no legitimate purpose. Examples I can think of that fit the "of no use" category are an old 1/4 inch stud I found on the Love Handles 3rd Class route and another at the end of Old Original's 3rd pitch.

Speaking of OO, the chalk on that climb could be old since there has been such a small amount of rain since last year. It amazes me that anyone would use chalk on that climb although it can be blistering hot if you don't get up there early. It also would not surprise me if people are still going up there through the closed area. The sign at Destiny Wall on the approach is very obvious and clear about not going up there.

As for the rappel tree it is a great place to collect booty. You could probably go up there once a week and clean the tree. Even if a sign were installed, unless people have the directions for the 4th class descent, they still wouldn't know where to go. A big part of the problem is the information on Mtn Proj telling people to carry two ropes and rappel from the tree. I often meet people on both sides of the park that do not have the guidebook and are going on limited or bad information posted on Mtn Proj. I thought about going on there to try and make corrections - but where do you start?

We can talk some more about this next weekend if you like. I can give you my other thoughts.





 

[JC w KC redux]

Mark,
I added the chain info to the Master List.
Thanks for the updates.

[climberdude]

John,

No, I did not see the bolt at the very top of the gully, but years ago I believe I pulled out or removed a hanger from a bolt on the left wall (as climbing up or rappelling down) somewhat near the top of the gully.  Perhaps I removed the hanger and left the 3/8" stud and that may have been what you saw.  I removed it since I understood that it was a rescue lower station bolt installed during the descent from a rescue and rappel bolts had been recently (at that time, since removed) in the gully.  As you are probably aware, these rappel bolts were removed, but then were again installed about two years ago.

Next time I go up in that area, I will look at the 1/4" stud.  I could not find any reference to "Barber's Backside" route in any of the previous guidebooks to check for number of bolts.  I suspect that if this Machete Ridge closure becomes a permanent annual situation that more people may be climbing "Barber's Backside".

Yes, I agree about the need for directions also.  I hope Brad's guidebook update will clarify this because even the present guidebook mentions that slings and even a fixed rope may be on this tree.  Perhaps if we posted onto Mountain Project corrections to the descent route and the need for two ropes.  Yes, years ago when the lower rappel points on the top of the ridge were not in such good shape I carried two ropes and did a single two rope rappel from the top of the ridge.  However today the rappel stations are all in good shape and you only need a single rope.  Let's talk at the PCAD.

[Max]

The second to the last bolt on Big Bad West has a spinning hanger and a wobbly bolt.

[Max]

That bolted piton on the NE corner of Monolith should be in the National Historical Registry.  It's the only one left at Pinnacles that I know of.  Anybody else know of another?  I think a modern bolt nearby and perhaps a little plaque next to it are in order.

There's one up in the high peaks, on the Anvil I believe.

[JC w KC redux]

The second to the last bolt on Big Bad West has a spinning hanger and a wobbly bolt.

clink is planning to give that climb some attention at some point in the near future.

[Max]

clink is planning to give that climb some attention at some point in the near future.

Sweet! BBW and Passion Play are both in need of some love. The first bolt on PP is pretty nasty.

There is also a new plated rawl style bolt on top of the Shepherd with a link on it. The bolt looks like a much better anchor than the old one. However, the link on this new bolt and the link on the old bolt does not facilitate a rappel, as both links are laying flat, not perpendicular.

[JC w KC redux]

Sweet! BBW and Passion Play are both in need of some love. The first bolt on PP is pretty nasty.

There is also a new plated rawl style bolt on top of the Shepherd with a link on it. The bolt looks like a much better anchor than the old one. However, the link on this new bolt and the link on the old bolt does not facilitate a rappel, as both links are laying flat, not perpendicular.

Thanks for the reminders Max.
I can take care of the stuff on Passion Play and the Shepherd.
My plan is to get two new anchor bolts on PP - there are 3 star dryvins with SMC hangers up there now that are in decent shape. I haven't looked at the lead bolts on that for a long time so I can check those and replace if needed. FA is 1980 so those lead bolts are 36 years old.

For the Shepherd I will replace the old anchor bolt and remove the screwlinks since that whole formation can be easily walked off and is shown that way on the current topo. I have routinely free soloed the Lamb and foolishly led Sheepish. The Wolf is a cool climb too (newer climb not in the book). That anchor is shown as only 1 bolt on the topo but I don't have a problem with replacing the old bolt to make it a solid 2 bolt anchor. Someone added that newer bolt before I started climbing at Pinns so I don't know how long it has been there but have noticed it looks beefy. I can take a hard look at it too.

I'm not sure we should replace that shared lead bolt for Lonesome Bolt and Sheepish. Might be a bad idea to encourage traffic on either of those, especially Lonesome Bolt which is in the guidebook corrections as 5.8X. You are going to deck if you blow either of those climbs making the bolt worthless. The gear on Sheepish is useless too. I slung the big lodestone and then cast off into the choss - rock quality is spooky from there to the top. That bolt is in a cracked lodestone too. Too bad those climbs are all Unknown on the FA's. Wasted resource imo.
 

[Max]

Thanks for the reminders Max.
I can take care of the stuff on Passion Play and the Shepherd.
My plan is to get two new anchor bolts on PP - there are 3 star dryvins with SMC hangers up there now that are in decent shape. I haven't looked at the lead bolts on that for a long time so I can check those and replace if needed. FA is 1980 so those lead bolts are 36 years old.

For the Shepherd I will replace the old anchor bolt and remove the screwlinks since that whole formation can be easily walked off and is shown that way on the current topo. I have routinely free soloed the Lamb and foolishly led Sheepish. The Wolf is a cool climb too (newer climb not in the book). That anchor is shown as only 1 bolt on the topo but I don't have a problem with replacing the old bolt to make it a solid 2 bolt anchor. Someone added that newer bolt before I started climbing at Pinns so I don't know how long it has been there but have noticed it looks beefy. I can take a hard look at it too.

I'm not sure we should replace that shared lead bolt for Lonesome Bolt and Sheepish. Might be a bad idea to encourage traffic on either of those, especially Lonesome Bolt which is in the guidebook corrections as 5.8X. You are going to deck if you blow either of those climbs making the bolt worthless. The gear on Sheepish is useless too. I slung the big lodestone and then cast off into the choss - rock quality is spooky from there to the top. That bolt is in a cracked lodestone too. Too bad those climbs are all Unknown on the FA's. Wasted resource imo.
 

I was just out there yesterday and the middle star dryvin has been replace by a nice looking wedge? type bolt and a nice hanger. There is a star dryvin on either side of that, for a total of 3 bolts. And I thought I read somewhere that the first bolt on PP had previously been replaced, but I don't believe that anymore, it is nasty and I sure wouldn't want to fall on it.

I agree about the wasted resources on the shepherd. The regular route is cool and nicely protected, until you get past the two aid bolts, then it feels like a solo. I haven't climbed the wolf yet.

Let me know if you need an extra hand on any rebolting projects! I'd love to get out there and help replace some of that old mank.

[JC w KC redux]

Yep, forgot about that added/replaced bolt on PP. I think it's a SS wedge w a Metolius hanger. I'll check to see if it has a letter on the end of the stud for length and put a torque wrench on it. Replacing one of the star dryvs may suffice if it checks out okay. It is a real bummer when folks add bolts or replace stuff and then don't report it properly. I don't have any record of a rebolt on PP.
It looks like Fletcher did that anchor bolt on the Shepherd back in 2000 (on my Master List).

Thanks for the offer. We can talk at the PCAD.

[Max]

Yep, forgot about that added/replaced bolt on PP. I think it's a SS wedge w a Metolius hanger. I'll check to see if it has a letter on the end of the stud for length and put a torque wrench on it. Replacing one of the star dryvs may suffice if it checks out okay. It is a real bummer when folks add bolts or replace stuff and then don't report it properly. I don't have any record of a rebolt on PP.
It looks like Fletcher did that anchor bolt on the Shepherd back in 2000 (on my Master List).

Thanks for the offer. We can talk at the PCAD.

There is for sure a new bolt on top of the shepherd, a total of two now. It wasn't there last month. It is a couple feet climbers right(if you just climbed the reg route) of the older one. Its a plated steel with some hardware store quick link. The older one (fletchers?) thats been there years has some rust, a fat Malaysian quick link, and is in a cracked lodestone. I imagine that one is fletchers as the age looks right and its been there since I first climbed at the Pinns.

[Max]

Yep, forgot about that added/replaced bolt on PP. I think it's a SS wedge w a Metolius hanger. I'll check to see if it has a letter on the end of the stud for length and put a torque wrench on it.

There's no number on the end of the stud, but a little hollow dimple/hole. I should've taken a pic but I rarely bring a camera.