Author Topic: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread  (Read 5490399 times)

mynameismud

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #460 on: March 09, 2015, 09:38:19 PM »
I think that was approved. 
Here's to sweat in your eye

mis_demeanor

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #461 on: March 10, 2015, 12:46:10 PM »
Hello Mud n Crud. Thanks for the add, I'll put the rest of the pictures in the gallery.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #462 on: March 10, 2015, 04:14:16 PM »
nice handle Missy and welcome to the Forum :)
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Brad Young

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #463 on: March 10, 2015, 04:31:36 PM »
Yes, welcome Missy.

mynameismud

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #464 on: March 10, 2015, 05:00:41 PM »
Welcome to the Forum.

I am not sure if there is any space in the MudnCrud Gallery.  We may have to spin up another one.
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #465 on: March 10, 2015, 05:01:59 PM »
What gallery?

F4?

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #466 on: March 10, 2015, 05:43:23 PM »
That was a bomer bolt

I'm not worthy.

mis_demeanor

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #467 on: March 10, 2015, 07:48:02 PM »
Thanks! I just put up the pictures here for anyone who is interested.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/131811001@N07/sets/72157651274830332/
Thanks JC for the captions.

EDIT by JC 8-22-20 - click on the link for all Missy's pics - re-posting a few choice ones here. Random dirt bag...pfffft!

JC leads Little Flatiron to get the day started.





Noal leads Toadstool





Missy takes a turn drilling





Noal and Missy having a laugh





Noal and clink drilling the replacement anchor






Brad Young

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #468 on: March 10, 2015, 07:56:06 PM »
That was exactly the right call too, leaving that old bolt.

NOAL

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #469 on: March 10, 2015, 08:04:09 PM »
^^yeah that thing is super cool. Can anybody make out the letters stamped on it?  I didn't notice them until looking at the photo.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #470 on: March 10, 2015, 08:31:47 PM »
^^yeah that thing is super cool. Can anybody make out the letters stamped on it?  I didn't notice them until looking at the photo.

Looks like CBAR
One wheel shy of "normal"

mungeclimber

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #471 on: March 10, 2015, 08:49:16 PM »
That was exactly the right call too, leaving that old bolt.

++
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mynameismud

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #472 on: March 10, 2015, 11:29:50 PM »
mudncrud gallery.
Here's to sweat in your eye

Bruce Hildenbrand

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #473 on: March 11, 2015, 06:43:55 PM »
Very cool stuff on the Toadstool!  Good call on leaving the bolted piton.  That seems like the right decision in that situation.

Clint and I were rebolting in the Hanging Valley yesterday.

We put in a 2-bolt anchor on the Wad with quick links and chains.  The only bolt on top looked like a very well-placed 3/8" Rawl split shaft. Too bad it was in a very poor location so we took the old Leper hanger off of it.

We replaced the single bolt anchor(3/8" Star Dryvin) on top of Nip and Tuck and added a second bolt with quick links and chains.  We replaced the hangerless bolt(1/4" Rawl split shaft) which protects the crux.

We replaced the bolt(3/8" Star Dryvin) on top of the route 'Obvious' on Teeter Tower.  We added a new rappel anchor on the east/uphill side of the pinnacle at the base of the balanced ball with quick links and chains for rappel.  This looked to be the best place for an anchor especially since the ball looks like it will head west if it goes especially if someone is foolish enough to try to climb all the way to the top.

We replaced the two belay bolts(3/8" Star Dryvins) at the base of The Driver and replaced the anchor bolt(3/8" Star Dryvin) and added a second anchor bolt with quick links and chains for rappel.

Brad Young

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #474 on: March 11, 2015, 07:07:41 PM »
All this rebolting going on reminds me of why (unlike David) I didn't put information about the types of bolts that are/were on routes in the 2007 guidebook. It was changing then and is changing even more now (and for the better).

mungeclimber

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #475 on: March 11, 2015, 08:42:56 PM »
Nothing wrong with incomplete. I can't think of other guides that ever even tried. And pinnacles is a place where that attempt was very helpful.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #476 on: March 11, 2015, 09:00:04 PM »
I'll update the master list tomorrow Bruce.
Sounds like much of The Hanging Valley is "Cook proof".
Too bad we can't get Billy Goats to eat all the PO.
You guys are doing great things.
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clink

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #477 on: March 12, 2015, 05:40:39 AM »
Quote
Nothing wrong with incomplete

Trying to start a new TR-not-FA rant?
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #478 on: March 12, 2015, 06:35:09 AM »

Nothing wrong with incomplete. I can't think of other guides that ever even tried. And pinnacles is a place where that attempt was very helpful.


I agree completely (no criticism of David intended at all). It was just that the rebolting efforts were really picking up by the time I got going and I felt like any list made then would quickly become obsolete.

mungeclimber

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #479 on: March 12, 2015, 09:32:31 AM »
I agree completely (no criticism of David intended at all). It was just that the rebolting efforts were really picking up by the time I got going and I felt like any list made then would quickly become obsolete.

JC removed his post that my comment was in reply to.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge