Clint and I were up in the Hanging Valley last week where we rebolted both the Toilet Seat and Kasparek's Delight.
Toilet Seat: The guidebook says there are two bolts for an anchor. We found only one(3/8" Star Dryvin). Clint ripped the sling in half with his hands. We put in two bolts plus quick links and a link of chain. The anchors are close to the lip making for a bit of a dicey start of the rappel, but that's the way it was when we found it and it is nice to clip the anchor before making the final moves to the top.
Kasperek's Delight: We replaced both lead bolts. The lower bolt was most likely placed during the first ascent in 1946. The second bolt was most likely placed in the late 60's or early 70's. During the FA in 1946 Ax Nelson and his crew probably used a ring angle pin in the big hole that is just right of the current location of the second bolt. BTW, this hole looks natural. The other hole, below this one looks like it might be man made. We also found what looks to be an old bolt hole about 2 feet below the first bolt. When the rotting boulder that allows clipping the first bolt from the "ground" falls apart it will be dicey with a bad fall getting the first bolt clipped.
On top of the Kasperek's we found seven bolts and the remnants of an eighth bolt. Contrary to what Chuck Richards says in his guidebook, the original anchor bolt placed by Nelson, Houston, etc. was still there. It was the same type of very old version of a Star Dryvin that we also found on H&L (another Houston route) and the top of the first pitch of Chaos Crag. I will post a photo when I get a chance. The other anchor bolt was a 1970's Star Dryvin/Leeper combo. We replace both of these and added quick links and a link of chain for rappel.
Also on top of Kaperek's we found four Star Dryvins, most likely places in the 60's which must have been some sort of bolting practice since they served no purpose we could determine. Also, they were placed incorrectly with only the nail and not the two sleeves on top of the hanger. We removed all four and patched the holes.
Lastly, in yet another Pinnacles mystery we found the remnants of a rappel anchor which was set on the southwest corner(normal rappel anchor on the north east side) of the summit most likely to facilitate a rappel, for some unknown reason, down the largest face of the pinnacle. This anchor was probably placed in the 50's or 60's. One bolt which appeared to be a Star Dryvin was sheared off flush with the rock. The second bolt was also a Star Dryvin with the blade of an old soft steel piton as the hanger. We removed this bolt. I will post a photo of this bolt when I get a chance.
