Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[F4?]

Us mortals would have to. No way I'm getting up Nexus...without Jumars.

[mungeclimber]

F4, you could do it once you're in shape again. The crux is the upper section and there is a small nut that Mr Mud or Brad used that seemed to protect the moves, IIRC.

[mynameismud]

there is a small nut that Mr Mud or Brad used that seemed to protect the moves, IIRC.

Don't weight it.

[Brad Young]

I think I'd also want to check that fixed pin before ever trying to lead it again (I think it was a knifeblade!).

[Gavin]

I still recall very clearly doing Nexus with Joe several years ago... It's definitely a heads-up route. The first pitch is awesome, sustained 5.10, but with some big stone knobs that are still popping out (and robbed me of an onsight). The thin, 5.11a corner stemming is worth all the effort, though... There's nothing else like it that I've climbed at Pinnacles.

The 2nd and 3rd pitches are in dire need of rebolting and more bolting, though... What is there is buried in moss. If those pitches were cleaned up I think they would be pretty fun.

[John B]

I think this is the proper place to post this. I'm not sure, I'm new, haha.

I added rap rings and quick links to the 4th belay on Power Tools on Citadel. The quick link that somebody (forget who) told me was on the 2nd or 1st bolt of Costanoan is gone. The Citadel can now be rapped top to bottom with one 60 meter rope, the ends just touch the ground from the 2nd belay of Power Tools. Hopefully this clears up the need to lug two 60's all the way up there. They're 3/8" quicklinks and stainless rings.

[mynameismud]

Nice, thank you.

And, Welcome to the Forum!

[John B]

Thanks. I ran into you guys yesterday morning in the parking lot. Congrats on the 900 routes, Brad.
It was my first time there and was fantastic until my buddy threw his pack off Elephant Rock. Cut our day a bit short.
And I've gone off topic... Oops.

[mynameismud]

No worries that happens a lot around here.  Hope he pack is ok.

[waldo]

The thin, 5.11a corner stemming is worth all the effort, though... There's nothing else like it that I've climbed at Pinnacles.

I'll admit that Jack once gave me a tug on the rope to get me out of the only time in my life i've performed a gymnastic split.  It is a unique spot.  Last time I was up that way, the anchors were mysteriously flat.  Hammered, you think?  Malice?

[JC w KC redux]

I'm in the process of completing a few projects and updating my master list.
It sounds like Bruce and Clint may also have some new info to report.
Good to see you guys out there this weekend giving such a classic route some long-needed attention.

I have two things underway right now and plan to complete them soon.
#1 is The Outcast. So far I have rebolted the main anchor and added chains.
I also added chains to the rappel station on Knuckle Ridge.
Next trip out I will replace all the lead bolts and pull/patch the old anchor bolts on The Outcast.
Brad replaced the anchor bolts on Catatonic Stupor.

#2 is Begin It Now. I replaced the two lead bolts on pitch one over the weekend. I will replace the lead bolt on p2 and the summit anchors my next trip up - probably this weekend.

I'll update my master list and repost it after each site is complete.

[mynameismud]

Thank you for the work on the Outcast.  Those are some old bolts and the anchors bolts are fairly shoddy.  At least they were 10 years ago.

[JC w KC redux]

Thank you for the work on the Outcast.  Those are some old bolts and the anchors bolts are fairly shoddy.  At least they were 10 years ago.

Fairly shoddy is generous bro. Upper left - 1/4"(probably split shaft) w Leeper, upper right - allen bolt w homemade tab hanger - both just have a smashlink to thread the rope. The new anchor is in excellent rock and a much better position for the rappel. The rope pulls very nicely. It will be fun to go finish the work

[JC w KC redux]

The quick link that somebody (forget who) told me was on the 2nd or 1st bolt of Costanoan is gone.

I confirmed this with Lasher.
I installed that link in July of 2012 and tightened it with a wrench - so someone reached new dirtbag heights by removing it this season. I'd like to personally congratulate whoever did it.
It was still there on 9-27-14.
I will put another one on it and this time Red Loctite will be deployed.

[mungeclimber]

a quicklink on the lead bolts?

can I get a refresh on why it is(was) there?

[NOAL]

John, nice work on the Outcast anchor. I like that you left the old funky allen bolt and aluminum hanger next to it. Let me know when you go back out to replace the bolts on the route. I'm totally up for going out there again.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Fairly shoddy is generous bro. Here is a composite. Upper left - 1/4"(probably split shaft) w Leeper, upper right - allen bolt w homemade tab hanger - both just have a smashlink to thread the rope. Bottom left shows the new anchor with chains. Bottom right shows new and old. The new anchor is in excellent rock and a much better position for the rappel. The rope pulls very nicely. It will be fun to go finish the work

John,

nice work on the Outcast!  Yes, the left bolt is probably a 1/4" split shaft.  The right bolt is probably a self-drive which is very hard to remove since there is no way to relieve the expansion in the back of the bolt hole.  I would bring a selection of English and Metric hex wrenches.  You might be able to remove the bolt head and then patch.  If not just get a big crowbar under that thing and heave ho.  BTW, that looks like a "Longware" hanger which was designed and manufactured by Yosemite legend Dick Long probably back in the 60's or so.

[JC w KC redux]

a quicklink on the lead bolts?
can I get a refresh on why it is(was) there?

Rob,
With a screwlink on the 1st bolt you can do the last rappel with a 60m to an excellent stance at that bolt.
You can then go in direct to that bolt and pull just enough rope to thread and rap the last 15-20 feet from the single bolt and pull the rest of the rope from the ground. I have never taken two ropes to that crag.
Kat and I installed that link the first time we did Costanoan and I posted it as an unofficial correction on the author's corrections sticky along with some minor topo corrections.
I also know the walkoff quite well now so I don't have to re-install a link if others don't want it.
The "walkoff" does involve a short section of slabby, fairly steep downclimbing.
It felt like easy 5th class to me when I did it but I didn't put my climbing shoes on.

[JC w KC redux]

John, nice work on the Outcast anchor. I like that you left the old funky allen bolt and aluminum hanger next to it. Let me know when you go back out to replace the bolts on the route. I'm totally up for going out there again.

Thanks Noal. We typically try to remove and clean up the old stuff but I didn't have my crowbar that day.
I will definitely remove the rusty 1/4" with Leeper and patch it.
If folks feel that allen bolt is a cool piece of history I could just remove the smashlink.

John,
nice work on the Outcast! BTW, that looks like a "Longware" hanger which was designed and manufactured by Yosemite legend Dick Long probably back in the 60's or so.

Bruce - thanks for the removal tips and historical info

[Brad Young]

If folks feel that allen bolt is a cool piece of history I could just remove the smashlink.

I think that is a good idea.

Bruce - thanks for the removal tips and historical info

Yeah, I'd never known that someone made the "tab" hangers commercially.