Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[JC w KC redux]

That is correct.  I think we missed two bolts,  the first and the last.  The last bolt was always occupied since that was the top anchor bolt and the first bolt we just missed.  The first bolt we just missed.  Maybe it is the first two bolts.  It would be good to clear that part up.

Is there an echo in here?

Geez - you guys are making it hard to be the rebolt Nazi. I may have to take some scalps!

If you spill your guts, I can add it to my master list on page 3.

I see no RB info for either in the book, so it would be good to add these gems to the list and any pothers you know about. Clearly there are other climbs that have been done and not reported - e.g. p1 The West Face

Lava Falls - total rebolt? 1/2"x6" SS wedges? if wedges - single, double? or are they 5 pc rawls? Date? Crew?

Shake and Bake - partial rebolt - pitches 2 and 3? materials? crew? date?

Let's have it - I've got lots of work to do...

[Brad Young]

Sir yes sir.

Hey, I'm (obviously) way too important and busy to read your list, but did you include our rebolting efforts on Icarus on it?

That's all I can think of for now - the phone is ringing off the hook here, and emails are flying in. Something about an otherwise naked guy free-soloing a route up Glacier Point Apron in approach shoes? Apparently he set the new speed record, although I'm still trying to tell if that speed record was for going up or going down?

[mynameismud]

Is there an echo in here?


Lava Falls - total rebolt? 1/2"x6" SS wedges? if wedges - single, double? or are they 5 pc rawls? Date? Crew?

Shake and Bake - partial rebolt - pitches 2 and 3? materials? crew? date?

Let's have it - I've got lots of work to do...

yes an echo

1/2 x 6 SS glue in bolts

Have no idea on the count.  Some one needs to go climb the routes to get an accurate count.  You can get a basic count by looking at the bolt count in Brad's guide book.  So both pitches on Lava Falls and pitch 2 and 3 on Shake and Bake.  Have no idea on the date and do not really remember who all was there.

I have never really paid much attention to this kind of stuff.

[JC w KC redux]

Saturday Joel and I had intended to get on a climb that turned out to be running water. So, after he led a route in the sun, and since we had the bolt kit along, we went over to rebolt a bit of Icarus.
He did well, and we then did the easy, but also very loose traverse left to the base of Icarus' second pitch.

I then proceeded to start the rebolting process, which is the entire purpose of this post. Glen Denny is very tall and his bolt ladders (this one included) require wicked-long reaches. These reaches give this bolt ladder interesting "character." I had previously replaced the second bolt in this ladder, and, to protect this character I'd carefully placed it at the same level as the replaced bolt, 10 inches to the left.

So I replaced the third bolt with two bolts, both in good rock, both less distant from the bolt below. When I replace the old fourth bolt, I'll likely go up several inches above it and in the process fill the distance once taken up by two bolts with three (but three in good rock).

From what I can tell you replaced 4 bolts in a 10 bolt ladder on p2?
Is there more someplace else?
Obviously I don't have time to search and read all your scattered information - what with fielding numerous calls from Guinness Book, Who's Who, Wikipedia, Honnold, Hans and of course Roger...

[Brad Young]

I can't really recall now Steve (or whatever the hell your name is) and it's only been a year. When you're as busy and important as I am, well, the little details fall to the wayside along with the little people.

I replaced the second bolt in the aid bolt ladder when I was there with Dennis and Jim eight or nine years ago. The replacement was 3/8" carbon steel, Rawl-type, 3 1/2 inches (it's overhanging there and I wanted to use up some of my old carbon steel bolts there they wouldn't get wet much). That's the same trip where they pulled a lot of the added bolts and I drew the topo and then moved the Sons of the West belay off of Icarus and onto just that route.

Then, you've cited the trip report where I replaced the third and fourth bolts (same type of replacement bolts, same reason).

And then, last October, Kevin and I replaced (I really don't recall here), I think four more bolts in the bolt ladder itself? These replacements were long, stainless, Rawl-type 3/8 inch. Among  this last set of replacements, we did replace the last bolt in the bolt ladder (the one that protects the first of the mandatory free climbing). Kevin and I also replaced the bolt in the middle of the mandatory free climbing (also with a long Rawl 3/8" stainless).

And what the hell, Roger actually called you back?

[clink]

JC and Roger get that faraway look in their eyes when they speak "rocks" to each other.

[mynameismud]

Ok here is the thread from the rebolting of Lava Falls with bolt detail.  Lava Falls has one glue in which is the bolt below the crux.
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=939.0

From the thread there were four of us.  Clint, F4, mudncrud and I think Brian who was the guy from Truckee.  Wish I had his last name.

[F4?]

798 – Daedalus – #1 bolt/hanger, p1 belay anchor, p2 bolt/hanger - Hildenbrand, Cummins, Jan 2014
          ASCA list says replaced the 6th and 7th protection bolts - Hildenbrand, Cummins, 11/06   

'06 is right as Brad and I were up on it the next weekend.

Will the tree at the 1st pitch be replanted?

[JC w KC redux]

There - I updated it with that info - thanks for the details.
D - The site automatically changes your name to Mr Mud.
I tried it with and without the first initials. stealthy

Factor - you'd have to have water to get a sapling to take root and grow!

clink might be willing to plant some PO there

Alternatively maybe we could get one of those cell towers that looks like a digger pine...

[mungeclimber]

Mr Mud

[mungeclimber]

Mr Mud

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Mr Mud
Word filter testing complete.

We now return you to our regularly scheduled programming.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Back in 2006 Clint (I belayed) replaced the 6th and 7th bolts on the headwall of pitch 2 of Daedulus.  The 6th bolt was at the top of the short bolt ladder.  Unfortunately, the 7th bolt was a Zmac which had been added after the first ascent(Glen Denny later confirmed that they only used Star Dryvins on the FA).  We didn't even know what the route was when we went up there, but there was a long length of frayed goldline hanging off one of the headwall bolts so we decided to go up and check it out.

Brian Bega from Truckee helped out with the rebolting of Lava Falls.  I replaced the top protection bolt on pitch two with a 3.8" x 3.5" SS Powers in 2006 and also swapped out the Leeper hangers at the top anchor as well.  Jack Holmgren glued in a lot of the Star Dryvins on this route making the bolts very hard to remove.

[F4?]

Man some of those bolts on Lava Falls were welded into the rock. they did not pull easily.

Glad the deed is done and now folks can enjoy the route.

Thanks Bruce for replacing the upper one 1st!

[mynameismud]

Brian Bega from Truckee

Brian Bega, that was the guy.  Thank you Bruce for supplying that lost piece of information.

Brian helped with the bolting and supplied the glue in bolts and the glue.  He also brought either one drill or two drills for the 1/2 in holes.  Jim  supplied the other 1/2 drill bit.

[Gavin]

Just wanted to mention that I upgraded the anchor for Lithium / Tangent today. The old set-up - with 3 smash links and a thin rappel ring off one bolt and 2 smash links off the other bolt - has always felt unnerving to me. A year or two ago, I got around to asking Clint for permission to upgrade the set-up, and finally remembered to bring the basic gear for it today. Now there is a stainless quick link hanging off the 3 smash links from the first bolt (with the thin ring bypassed), and a 5-link chain hanging from a stainless quick link on the second bolt. The whole set-up is now pretty well equalized for rappel.

[mynameismud]

doubt I will ever climb that again, but thank you for the upgrade.  Sounds like a much better setup.

[Brad Young]

Things were pretty wet this weekend, and so the climbing was limited. Alan and I "took advantage" of the conditions to replace some bolts.

First, I'm embarrassed to say I'm not sure whether the two-bolt top anchor we replaced was at the top of the second pitch of Nexus, or atop Plexus or Sexus. Conditions were so wet that we couldn't get very far out on the edge of the cliff without fear of sliding off, and I couldn't get my bearings as to which route we were at the top of.

Second, this top anchor was in weird condition. The bolt hangers were smashed over flat:










The smashing in question must have happened many years ago for the moss to have grown over the silver colored bolt hanger. Alan and I theorized that some stray hiker angry with climbers "defacing" the rock may have smashed the hangers? Once we returned to our group though, Jim said that he thought they'd been smashed by an infamous, late 80s Pinnacles rap-bolter in revenge for the Nexus first ascent author having erased one of the rap-bolter's rap-bolted routes. That made more sense as an explanation of how they came to be smashed (although it made no sense at all as an action taken by an idiot so many years ago).

Third, we installed two good bolts in very good rock. These were ASCA, half-inch stainless. We did not place the bolts side-by-side due to rock quality (the old anchors did not have slings or chains and to my knowledge aren't used as a rappel station, and so side-by-side didn't seem as important as good rock):







Although the old bolts were well placed for what they were, what they were was one and one half inch long, 3/8" Star Dryvns with decidedly not-modern hangers. I think the new equipment is better (we did pull the old bolts):

[F4?]

Nice job Brad. So we could rap in from the new Anchors?

[Brad Young]

Nice job Brad. So we could rap in from the new Anchors?

One way to do Plexus and Sexus is to rap in and climb just these two routes back out (this works if doing Nexus, or at least its first pitch, is too much). These would work well for that.

Walk over to them from the base of The Inn Crowd.