Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[JC w KC redux]

I will see what I can do.  I think all I have is the hangers since the studs fell apart on removal.

No worries Bruce - I have already seen the hangers since I'm the last poor dumb bastard to lead that thing before the rebolt - good to know that the bolts were solid!
What kind were they?(I described them as mythological)...

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

No worries Bruce - I have already seen the hangers since I'm the last poor dumb bastard to lead that thing before the rebolt - good to know that the bolts were solid!
What kind were they?(I described them as mythological)...

The bolts on Tuff Dome Traverse were 3/8" self drives, just about the worst bolt you could ever place.  Basically, you you drill a 3/8" hole and then put in a sleeve with internal threads.  You screw a 1/4" bolt into the sleeve.  This is so wrong because, not only are you drilling a 3/8" hole and filling it with a 1/4" bolt, the bolt has cut threads which creates a stress riser making the 1/4" bolt way weaker than a standard 1/4" steel rod like you see on a 1/4 split shaft.

Having said all that, 1/4" Star Dryvins may be just as bad as 3/8" self drives.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Last Friday JC and I did some rebolting down at the Pinns.  JC probably has some pics to add to this narrative.

We removed the two 3/8" Rawl split shafts with Leper hangers at the optional second belay on the Portent and added a 3/8"x3.5" SS Powers bolt to the other good bolt at that optional anchor.  I also removed the smash links from the optional first belay.

We removed the 3/8" Rawl split shaft that was one of two anchor bolts on top of the Ordeal.  We deepened the hole and  placed a 3/8"x3.5" SS Powers bolt in it.

Next stop, Steve's Folly.  We replaced the 3/8" Star Dryvin on the first pitch.  Those of you who have done this pitch know that the bolt is way off the climbing line.  I found the remnants of a 1/4" Star Dryvin just left of the climbing line.  The 3/8" Star Dryvin had a Leper hanger so it was probably a rebolt.  Because of that I placed the new bolt just right of the old 1/4" Star Dryvin in good rock.  We replaced the three bolts on the second pitch (1st one was a 1/4" Rawl buttonhead with a Leeper hanger so it probably isn't an original; the next two were 3/8" self drives).  I found the remnants of a 1/4" hole about a foot right of the second bolt.

To be historically correct, my guess is that the FA of this route in 1957 was on aid.  In Roper's Pinnacles Guide it is clear that he never climbed the route as he give the rating of the climb as 'unknown.'  The Chuck RIchards' guide calls the route 5.5 A1 or 5.7.  Richards also mentions a bolt in the chimney on the first pitch.  Anybody ever seen that?

[JC w KC redux]

Last Friday JC and I did some rebolting down at the Pinns.  JC probably has some pics to add to this narrative.

To be historically correct, my guess is that the FA of this route in 1957 was on aid.  In Roper's Pinnacles Guide it is clear that he never climbed the route as he gave the rating of the climb as 'unknown.'  The Chuck Richards' guide calls the route 5.5 A1 or 5.7.  Richards also mentions a bolt in the chimney on the first pitch.  Anybody ever seen that?

That is some interesting info Bruce - thanks - and thanks again for the day. I am now somewhat familiar with aiding technique after watching Brad and reluctantly volunteering to clean most of what I'll refer to as the Insanity Ceiling section of Arch up the Center. I learned a lot in a short time and through much struggling. I never looked for a bolt on the chimney section of Steve's Folly since there were so many gear placements - and I didn't know there was supposed to be one. The moss is super thick on the left side as you increase in height.

[JC w KC redux]

Last Friday JC and I did some rebolting down at the Pinns.  JC probably has some pics to add to this narrative.

Before pic of Portent upper belay





Portent split shafts





Bruce in the tree tangle chimney on the way down to Steve's Folly





Bruce in position and working on the awkward third aid bolt





Pretty new bolts in a row - sweet!

[mungeclimber]

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=2003.msg25662#new


cross posting for posterity if for some reason I can't get to it.

[mungeclimber]

Josh marathon replaced three bolts on Triple X, and I got one done. It appears that it is all replaced now.

My hole cratered, but I found some good rock down and left a little.

Right after rapping down Destiny it started raining. Twenty percent my ass.

[clink]

What was the other 80?

[mungeclimber]

apparently a fraud perpetrated on the public by the National Weather Service

[squiddo]

Conspiracy!

[clink]

Hey Munge, according to j-tree, you and Superman have similar anatomy. ST, What.s your favorite route?

[JC w KC redux]

Josh marathon replaced three bolts on Triple X, and I got one done. It appears that it is all replaced now.

This is odd since only 3 of the bolts were old. Did you do mean he replaced two and you did one?

[MUCCI]

You are right John,

I replaced the 2 in the corner section.

The first was the one next the the A1 bomber crack, and the rock was so hard (30min) to drill the 2.25" bolt.

The second, just below the headwall, was in even harder rock, and I drilled the 3.5" in around an hour.

Hardest stone I have ever drilled in pinnacles, whats more odd is that I did not note this rock quality on the other bolts replaced on the route.

Both anchors were 3/8" x 1" self drive drop anchors. The machine screw is 3/16"

[mungeclimber]

oh, the other one higher was replaced already? ok.

[JC w KC redux]

oh, the other one higher was replaced already? ok.

So Rob - it sounds like you replaced the last bolt.

Josh - it sounds like you were drilling into embedded/buried lodestones - sweet!

These were the notes I made after leading it. I backed up both old bolts with gear.

The long runout to the 6th bolt is understated on the topo because of the curving nature of the route in that section. The route description warns you about the runout AND the fact that the 6th bolt is hard to see - it DEFINITELY had my full attention!

[MUCCI]

I would have added some retro bolts to ease that run, but the moss carpet was not cooperating.

[mungeclimber]

I used the moss to hide my retrobolts. That way I can be protected, but others can still get the onsight.

[squiddo]

I used the moss to hide my retrobolts. That way I can be protected, but others can still get the onsight.

Sweet work thanks!

I want carpet moss in my house......Pinns carpet moss.

[JC w KC redux]

I would have added some retro bolts to ease that run, but the moss carpet was not cooperating.

I used the moss to hide my retrobolts. That way I can be protected, but others can still get the onsight.

Duuuudes! That's not even funny

[F4?]

Good man mungie! moss hides everything.

I assume the replaced ones were put in better places.