Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[Uncle Stinky]

Thanks for your work!

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Can anybody tell me what kind of bolts these are?

Triple X bolt 6 (bolts/hangers 5, 6 and 8 all appear to be the same - bolt/hanger #7 has been replaced)



South Finger Regular Route bolt 1 (the other 3 bolts and hangers above this one are the same type)

The first bolt looks like a self drive, as Mucci noted.  Not a great bolt and should be replaced.

The second bolt is a very old Star Dryvin.  As  noted these are from the South Finger.  We didn't replace these because they are very historical, there are enough of them that there is safety in numbers and the climbing is pretty easy.

[JC w KC redux]

Clint and I were up rebolting at the Pinns yesterday.  We replaced the three bolts on Tuff Dome Traverse(and removed the added bolt).  We replaced the old Leeper hangers on the Burgundy Dome rappel route and the Sponge Left Side(well four of the five as we ran out of hangers).  We also removed a poorly placed Star Dryvin on the top of Bynum Spire.  If anyone wants instructions on how to properly place a Star Dryvin, let me know.

Lastly, we went over to The Big Step to rebolt that.  Way too much loose rock and dangerous landings to make this a worthy project.  Best to leave it in obscurity and not encourage any climbing traffic.

Wow - that is going to be weird to see new hangers on the Sponge and Burgundy. Some friends of ours may have gotten the last lead on the old Sponge hangers two weekends ago. Burgundy was my first 5.7 at Pinns so that will always be a fond memory. So the bolts on those routes were okay? I have always wondered what type they are.

So glad I could lead the Tuff Dome Traverse and get that "I'm going to die" feeling before it can't be experienced any more. I will REALLY miss that! I'll have to lead that again to see how different it feels - the runouts should still keep it exciting. How hard was it to remove those old bolts? Would they have held a fall?

I was actually considering rebolting the Big Step myself after the closures kick in.
I've been up on it to find the old hangerless stud.
The rock on the LOLR did look suspect.
Obscurity is my middle name

Funny that you guys cleaned up Bynum's. We were just up on Bynum's Saturday and I was asking Brad about some of the leftover stuff I've seen on summits - most recently The Fingers, H&L and Toog's. I thought maybe folks left it there for posterity. H&L has some old holes that were never filled and the second summit anchors are a joke. I just figured those anchors were never replaced b/c it's so easy and the belayer also has good body position.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Clint and I have been doing some rebolting over on Goat Rock.  In mid-December we worked on Lonely Sheepherder.  The first bolt was a good 3/8" with a bad hanger so we replaced the hanger.  We replaced the second protection bolt.  The third protection bolt was actually two bolts, one a 3/8" self-drive and the other a 3/8" Star Dryvin.  We took out those two and put a new bolt by drilling out the Star Dryvin hole.  We replaced the fourth bolt(called 'bad bolt' on Brad's topo) which was a 3/8" split shaft(of course the shafts weren't compressed at all!).  We found a broken off 3/8" self drive about 10 feet above the fourth protection bolt so added a bolt there.  We replaced the 1/4" belay bolt with two 3/8" SS bolts.

The second pitch had a single bolt, 1/4" Rawl split shaft, which we replaced.

In mid-January we replaced the bolts on Piece of Ewe.  All three bolts were 3/8" Star Dryvins.  We added a second bolt at the belay on top of the second pitch.  Even with new bolts, the third pitch remains a serious lead.

[mynameismud]

Thank you!

[Aaron McDonald]

Yes,

Thank you Bruce and Clint.  I lead Lonely Sheepherder last year and thought I was going to die. Glad to hear everything was updated especially the 1/4" bolt and homemade angle hanger. There are a couple really nice water feature in the middle of the route during the early spring season.

[JC w KC redux]

 I lead Lonely Sheepherder last year and thought I was going to die.

Damn! I wanted to lead that before the replacement! NOT! Aaron - too bad they already replaced the Tuff Dome Traverse bolts - now all you get is the runout, crappy gear and sandbag rating.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Clint, John Cook and I did some rebolting last Wednesday.  We replaced the four bolts on Thundering Herd(the first three were 1.5"x1/4" split shafts, the last was a 1"x1/4" split shaft).  We then went over to Toogs and replaced the second bolt on Toog's Tarbaby(3/8" Start Dryvin) and the first bolt on the 5.9 direct finish(1/2" hole with a funky two-part lead sleeve into which a 3/8" lag bolt was threaded).  On top of Toog's we removed a 3/8" split shaft(shaft not compressed!) and a 1/2" self drive.

We replaced the chains on top with 3/8" quick links and 3/8" chain.  Hopefully, the chain and quick links will remain in place!

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Here is a photo of the bolts Clint and I replaced on Lonely Shepherder

[Aaron McDonald]

Here is a photo of the bolts Clint and I replaced on Lonely Shepherder

Images from which nightmares are born.

[Uncle Stinky]

Nice and thanks, Thanks for doing Burgundy, one of the very best l short moderate climbs
at Pinnacles.

[JC w KC redux]

Here is a photo of the bolts Clint and I replaced on Lonely Sheepherder

The top middle looks like it might have pulled using your fingernail!

Bruce - Aaron swears there is one missing - the lone bolt on pitch 2 in the upper mossy water chute - he said it was a homemade hanger with more than one hole in it. Maybe he is remembering wrong since you've displayed 7 bolts and that is the number shown on the topo.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

The top middle looks like it might have pulled using your fingernail!

Bruce - Aaron swears there is one missing - the lone bolt on pitch 2 in the upper mossy water chute - he said it was a homemade hanger with more than one hole in it. Maybe he is remembering wrong since you've displayed 7 bolts and that is the number shown on the topo.

Got 'em all.  I arranged the bolts in order of the climb; the first bolt at the top of the photo being the first bolt on the climb.  The last bolt at the bottom of the photo, the dark, rust-colored split shaft, is the protection bolt on the second pitch.

[JC w KC redux]

Got 'em all.  I arranged the bolts in order of the climb; the first bolt at the top of the photo being the first bolt on the climb.  The last bolt at the bottom of the photo, the dark, rust-colored split shaft, is the protection bolt on the second pitch.

Nice. The lag in the lead sleeve is my favorite.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Clint and I were rebolting on Machete yesterday.  We removed the Fixe ring anchor and quick links on top of the first pitch of Twinkle Toes Traverse and replaced it with quick links and 3/8" chain for a more equalized anchor.  We reinstalled the quick links on top  of the second pitch and added links of chain for an easier rappel.

We moved over to Lucky 13 where we replaced all the old hangers(mostly thin SMC and a few Leeper) with stronger SS hangers.  BTW, all the 3/8" bolts on this climb(there are 13) are SS wedge bolts.  We found evidence that the first ascent of this route was done with 1/4 split shaft bolts.  We removed hangerless 1/4" split shafts next to the first and second 3/8" bolts.  Clint found evidence of 1/4" holes near the 3rd and fourth 3/8" bolts.  In actuality there were thirteen 3/8" bolts(the bottom two didn't have hangers) and one 1/4" bolt(it was the fourth bolt from the top).  Because there was a 3/8" bolt about one foot above the 1/4" bolt we removed it.  Now, the first pitch is all 3/8" bolts.

We completed replacing all the bad hangers(Leepers) on the second pitch with SS hangers except for the second bolt which should really just be removed(too close to other good bolts).

We replaced the Leeper hangers on the three belay bolts at the start of the fourth pitch of Machete Direct with SS hangers.

We replaced the 1st protection bolt, 1st pitch belay bolts and 2nd pitch protection bolt on Daedalus with 3.5"x3/8" SS Rawl 5-piece bolts.

[JC w KC redux]

Clint and I were rebolting on Machete yesterday. 

Geez! that is a crazy amount of work you guys accomplished - good thing I wasn't there to slow you down

Thanks for beefing up the TT anchors - that will be sweet.

So do all the "Lucky" route bolts now have hangers?

[squiddo]

Clint and I were rebolting on Machete yesterday.  We removed the Fixe ring anchor and quick links on top of the first pitch of Twinkle Toes Traverse and replaced it with quick links and 3/8" chain for a more equalized anchor.  We reinstalled the quick links on top  of the second pitch and added links of chain for an easier rappel.

We moved over to Lucky 13 where we replaced all the old hangers(mostly thin SMC and a few Leeper) with stronger SS hangers.  BTW, all the 3/8" bolts on this climb(there are 13) are SS wedge bolts.  We found evidence that the first ascent of this route was done with 1/4 split shaft bolts.  We removed hangerless 1/4" split shafts next to the first and second 3/8" bolts.  Clint found evidence of 1/4" holes near the 3rd and fourth 3/8" bolts.  In actuality there were thirteen 3/8" bolts(the bottom two didn't have hangers) and one 1/4" bolt(it was the fourth bolt from the top).  Because there was a 3/8" bolt about one foot above the 1/4" bolt we removed it.  Now, the first pitch is all 3/8" bolts.

We completed replacing all the bad hangers(Leepers) on the second pitch with SS hangers except for the second bolt which should really just be removed(too close to other good bolts).

We replaced the Leeper hangers on the three belay bolts at the start of the fourth pitch of Machete Direct with SS hangers.

We replaced the 1st protection bolt, 1st pitch belay bolts and 2nd pitch protection bolt on Daedalus with 3.5"x3/8" SS Rawl 5-piece bolts.

NICE thanks Bruce- excellent work from you and Clint.

[JC w KC redux]

Bruce - do you have time to post a pic of the bolts from Tuff Dome Traverse?
I would love to see those since there were no details on the thread

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Geez! that is a crazy amount of work you guys accomplished - good thing I wasn't there to slow you down

Thanks for beefing up the TT anchors - that will be sweet.

So do all the "Lucky" route bolts now have hangers?

John,

you wouldn't have slowed us down a bit.  We just put this thing together quickly after watching the weather which was even a bit iffy yesterday morning.

Yup!  All the bolts on the first pitch of 'Lucky 13' now have beefy, SS hangers.

ps- if you have a good headlamp the amount of work you can get done is only limited by how heavy you want you pack to weigh with all the hardware.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Bruce - do you have time to post a pic of the bolts from Tuff Dome Traverse?
I would love to see those since there were no details on the thread

I will see what I can do.  I think all I have is the hangers since the studs fell apart on removal.