Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[mungeclimber]

ones you should use a screamer on.

[MUCCI]

The top one is a threaded hex into a drop anchor, probably like 1" total length.  The drop anchor is 1/2" and the hex bolt is probably 5/16ths.

NO GOOD, replaced many of those.

The second is a Star drive, what looks to be 3/8ths.

Bomber for the time, but nowadays they are frowned upon.  If I could pick one anchor to take a huge whipper on, this would be it in terms of historical bolts found in Pinnacles.  I have replaced tons of those and they are the hardest to remove, on most occasions.

I would replace both of them.

[squiddo]

I hate whipping on hardware store junk

[Brad Young]

...I would replace both of them.

Funny, I think you did replace several of the bolts on the route those bolts are on. But not those bad boys!

And I do mean funny, as in a funny/ironic statement. Any properly done replacement work is way cool; a real public service, and you do more than your share. I'll bet you got to some of the bolts on that route and not others (at least not yet). Keep up the good work.

[MUCCI]

What route are we speaking of?

[Brad Young]

What route are we speaking of?

Either Triple X or Beyond Destiny (I'm not sure because I only saw him top out - Kevin and I were up higher finishing a new route).

[JC w KC redux]

What route are we speaking of?

Josh - the top one is Triple X - bolts 5, 6 and 8 look like this. Bolt 7 must be the one you replaced and I am grateful. It gave me a sense of relief after being scared out of my wits. I backed up 5 and 6 with cams and 8 is somewhat superfluous.

The bottom pic is from the last section/only bolted section of South Finger - one of four closely spaced "identicals" but I swear I did not see the raised star on them - do they all have that?

[MUCCI]

Doh! Busted..

That must be xxx.  My nemesis.  I have made 3 attempts to finish that job.

The last of which, I slammed my thumb against the hanger with my hammer.  The thumb exploded, and I bled all over the place during my self rescue! Hahaaa.

Still have no feeling in that thumb.

I probably kept it from ASCA b/c it was not finished.  

Another cool note. That hex head bolt should be the next to last, and I am pretty sure it is the one my buddy took a 60 footer on.

[Brad Young]

...and I am pretty sure it is the one my buddy took a 60 footer on.

I sure don't remember THAT story. What happened?

[squiddo]

I sure don't remember THAT story. What happened?

Yes please, do! Ouch, 60 feet anywhere let alone the Pinns. Whole lotta bandaide's

[MUCCI]

Okay, I guess I have my bolt count wrong, but one of those upper 3 caught a HUGE winger.

Early season about 5 years ago, the watercourse to climbers right was flowing and the moss was in full effect.

My buddy Uli set off, and placed gear as JC did in between the upper bolts, then he had second thoughts about the direct finish as is was seeping all over.

He moved out right and began to traverse over to where you would go down if you were 3rd classing the descent.

He was out of visual, and then I heard "oh shit, falling!"

The rope went limp and I looked up and saw a bunch of loops starting at each bolt.  I started peeling in slack, and running backward down the hill.  I reeled in a bunch and then saw him surfing the watercourse, then the rope came taught and he swung way left like a clock hand.

We didn't speak for a few seconds, then he said " YOu can finish this one Mucci!"

I lowered him and tied in, climbed up to the bolt that caught him, and thought "no way jose".  Looked over to my right and saw 40 feet of ski tracks through the moss!

He went a long way, at least 50+ and if I had not reeled in and ran backward, he might have came all the way down to the start of the 3rd class approach.

Jingus.

Bomber bolt, that is probably why I left it  

[Brad Young]

Okay, I guess I have my bolt count wrong, but one of those upper 3 caught a HUGE winger.

Early season about 5 years ago, the watercourse to climbers right was flowing and the moss was in full effect.

My buddy Uli set off, and placed gear as JC did in between the upper bolts, then he had second thoughts about the direct finish as is was seeping all over.

He moved out right and began to traverse over to where you would go down if you were 3rd classing the descent.

He was out of visual, and then I heard "oh shit, falling!"

The rope went limp and I looked up and saw a bunch of loops starting at each bolt.  I started peeling in slack, and running backward down the hill.  I reeled in a bunch and then saw him surfing the watercourse, then the rope came taught and he swung way left like a clock hand.

We didn't speak for a few seconds, then he said " YOu can finish this one Mucci!"

I lowered him and tied in, climbed up to the bolt that caught him, and thought "no way jose".  Looked over to my right and saw 40 feet of ski tracks through the moss!

He went a long way, at least 50+ and if I had not reeled in and ran backward, he might have came all the way down to the start of the 3rd class approach.

Jingus.

Bomber bolt, that is probably why I left it  

And why exactly are we only hearing this great story now (I assume he wasn't seriously hurt)?

And why would you think that any bolt at Pinns that had just held a fall/slide of that length would still be bomber afterward?

And, especially, why in hell didn't you make sure that John knew about this fall before he started up the route!?

[squiddo]

NICE! love the ski track visual Mucci

[MUCCI]

Keeping adventure alive and well Brad 

I must have told that story before?  Last time he climbed in pinnacles I believe.

That route has been XXX for me since the onset.

I will go back and finish it off this year, I hate leaving projects.

[mungeclimber]

I recall some part of that story. nice

[mynameismud]

Last time he climbed in pinnacles I believe.

Dang, but understandable,

[JC w KC redux]

NICE! love the ski track visual Mucci

This will help with the visual

[mynameismud]

with those shoes of yours, you could do some serious skiing.   

[JC w KC redux]

We were on Toog's yesterday and I noticed the rust and missing washer on bolt 1 of Toog's Gallery - Direct Finish 5.9.
I wouldn't have been especially concerned, except for the fact that this bolt is quite high and protects a committing stemming move with a potentially disastrous result if the bolt failed during a fall. The rust looks superficial - but I still imagined the head snapping off if I fell.

The hanger doesn't sit particularly flush/flat (even though it is tight). I felt a lot better after I got the 2nd bolt clipped. There is no FA date on the climb.

Has anyone more experienced ever inspected this first crucial bolt?





I was also checking the RB info for the summit anchor and there is none. The summit has an old smc death hanger on an allen bolt, a wedge bolt that looks brand new (or is SS) - and a two bolt rap station with chains a few feet away from the others. The rap station is no doubt an FOP replacement for the other two bolts - but is not listed on their site.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Clint and I were up rebolting at the Pinns yesterday.  We replaced the three bolts on Tuff Dome Traverse(and removed the added bolt).  We replaced the old Leeper hangers on the Burgundy Dome rappel route and the Sponge Left Side(well four of the five as we ran out of hangers).  We also removed a poorly placed Star Dryvin on the top of Bynum Spire.  If anyone wants instructions on how to properly place a Star Dryvin, let me know.

Lastly, we went over to The Big Step to rebolt that.  Way too much loose rock and dangerous landings to make this a worthy project.  Best to leave it in obscurity and not encourage any climbing traffic.