Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[F4?]

I stand corrected by Jim.

Who can argue.

[JC w KC redux]

Nope.  That's a genuine Barbella hanger.  You younguns just don't realize what a bomber bolt was back in those days.

I get it - it's a piece of Pinnacles history but what I saw was a piece of old angle iron cut with a hacksaw and hand drilled close to the edges - not to mention the looseness.

Maybe a modern bolt could be added somewhere close to it as a backup - although anyone that does this route will have a rack and can build a backup as I did.

[JC w KC redux]

I don't see any mention of The Hideout rebolt anywhere on any of the threads or links - it has indeed been rebolted.

[JC w KC redux]

Clint and I were rebolting on the west side yesterday.  We replaced the 2nd, 3rd and 4th protection bolts on the first pitch of Alias Bandit Bench.  Clint found the hardest rock ever at the Pinnacles to add a second stainless steel bolt to the anchor on top of the first pitch. We also replaced the 1st and 2nd bolts on the True Grit variation and put a SS Petzl hanger on the 3rd bolt.

I clipped and thoroughly enjoyed all these replacements yesterday - thanks again!
The new anchor is especially nice.
Too bad some bozo stole the screwlinks from the p2 anchor on Twinkle Toes - what is wrong with people?!
Not to worry - it gave me a chance to practice my improv skills - see my TR and the giant lodestone.

[Brad Young]

I clipped and thoroughly enjoyed all these replacements yesterday - thanks again!
The new anchor is especially nice.
Too bad some bozo stole the screwlinks from the p2 anchor on Twinkle Toes - what is wrong with people?!
Not to worry - it gave me a chance to practice my improv skills - see my TR and the giant lodestone.

Just goes to show what happens when there is a screw loose (a screw in the "brain" of the buttwipe who stole it that is).

[JC w KC redux]

Just goes to show what happens when there is a screw loose (a screw in the "brain" of the buttwipe who stole it that is).

Yes - they really saved some coin on that one - considering I can get 3/8 screwlinks at Pac Edge for just under $3 - plus if that same person was the one that left the webbing and piece of cordalette - they ended up saving about 2 or 3 bucks!

I forgot to mention in my TR that we saw a loooong strand of bright colored webbing on the bolt below the overlap on Beyond Destiny - someone must have bailed. KC and I are planning to take a newb out that way in a few weeks - if it is still there I'll get up there and clean it.

[mungeclimber]

It would be good to get the original story on this route.

to your request... Adding a belay midway through a route (by doubling a pro bolt) has not been viewed favorably by folks I've talked to. The argument is that it changes the character of the route and original FA.

[Brad Young]

EDIT: I'm leaving this post on here, although the post to which it replied is gone now (the author thought better of it and removed it).

Let's not. Adding a bolt is adding a bolt, not replacing one.

Adding bolts to other people's routes is considered really, really bad. The argument that it makes the route "better" or "easier" will, if accepted in the future, lead to most of the routes in Pinnacles getting added bolts, being way dumbed down, and made very milk-toast and adventureless.

I've often thought that some upcoming generation of gym-raised climbers will do something like this in the name of safety above all. Safety must come first (it'll have to happen after I'm dead though, since added bolts won't stay long until then). And then someone like Adam comes along - a full generation younger than me - who restores my faith in Pinnacles climbers loving the rock and loving adventure.

[JC w KC redux]

These are rusty smash links on top of Papa Bear 8-30-13. RB by FOP 2003. Everything else on the anchor looks good.



 

Not sure how long these pieces are safe once corrosion sets in. Input is appreciated.

The protection bolts and hangers could also stand to be replaced on both routes - The Original Route - 1 bolt (1968), April Fool's Route 2 bolts (1976).

[JC w KC redux]

Thundering Herd - bolt 1 is a homemade steel hanger with tight bolt - both are rusted. The remaining 3 bolts are all 1/4" studs with homemade aluminum hangers. The bolts are heavily rusted. Hangers on bolts 2 and 3 are loose. I don't recall whether or not bolt 4 was loose (it probably was) - I didn't pay as much attention to it since it was in what I perceived as the class 3 part of the route and I hadn't expected another bolt since only three are listed in the guidebook. I can see how it could easily be missed. I did miss bolt 2 and was slightly above it trying to read the route when I looked down and saw it. I downclimbed a move or two and clipped it - garbage that it was. I realize this route is probably low priority, so maybe this comment can serve as a warning to anyone that wants to try the route. FA 1972 - Steve Chidester and Chuck Richards.

My hoodwires wouldn't fit through the aluminum hanger holes (guess I should have learned from Toog's and munge's warning).

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

These are the rusty smash links on top of Papa Bear 8-30-13. RB by FOP 2003. Everything else on the anchor looks good.



Not sure how long these pieces are safe once corrosion sets in. Input is appreciated.

The protection bolts and hangers could also stand to be replaced on both routes - The Original Route - 1 bolt (1968), April Fool's Route 2 bolts (1976).

JC, just back from Boulder, CO where my basement flooded not once, but twice during last month's floods.

A bit of history about the smash links..... In the earl y 90's I climbed a lot of routes in the Pinns with the purpose to replace old webbing with new webbing and welded steel rings.  I choose to use the welded rings rather than the aluminum SMC rap rings available at that time because people seem to be taking the SMC rings as booty.

When I went back and re-climbed the routes I put the the welded rings on, they were gone!  When I began my rebolting campaign at the Pinns in the mid-90's I was tired of seeing the hardware I paid for and lugged up to the crags being taken by dirtbag climbers.  So, rather than use quick links, I decided to use smash links to give a better guarantee that the hardware didn't disappear.  I have seen a number of those same smash links on other routes at the Pinns which have rusted, but be assured that it is only surface rust and should not be a safety issue.

These days, now that the ASCA has stepped in to provide hardware I am using quick links with the chain. 

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

I clipped and thoroughly enjoyed all these replacements yesterday - thanks again!
The new anchor is especially nice.
Too bad some bozo stole the screwlinks from the p2 anchor on Twinkle Toes - what is wrong with people?!
Not to worry - it gave me a chance to practice my improv skills - see my TR and the giant lodestone.

JC,

just wondering what you used those quick links for at the top of P2 of Twinkle Toes?  I don't think that is the original P2 belay.  It is pretty cramped.  I usually just go over the anchor of Bandits in Bondage.

[JC w KC redux]

I have seen a number of those same smash links on other routes at the Pinns which have rusted, but be assured that it is only surface rust and should not be a safety issue.

Good to know Bruce - thanks.

[JC w KC redux]

JC,

just wondering what you used those quick links for at the top of P2 of Twinkle Toes?  I don't think that is the original P2 belay.  It is pretty cramped.  I usually just go over the anchor of Bandits in Bondage.

Bruce - with the screwlinks we've done a diagonal rappel back down Twinkle Toes p2 to the p1 rap station. It puts you back down at the bottom of Destiny wall quicker and there is no PO around the base - plus it can be done with 1 rope. BIB takes 2 ropes and there is some scattered PO around the base and growing on the last part of the cliff. The other way I have gotten down from there is to rap back down True Grit to the lodestone, traverse below BMM and then rap from the Lucky 13 anchor. You can also scramble over the top of BMM and do two raps down those stations(starting at 800xx) - just a bit of scattered PO around the base on that one.

[mynameismud]

dam I have lost it.  Know idea what you are talking about.

going to go cry in my beer.

[JC w KC redux]

dam I have lost it.  Know idea what you are talking about.

going to go cry in my beer.

Go to my thread Tis the season for conundrums and thieves...that's where I mentioned someone stealing the screwlinks from the P2 Twinkle Toes belay. I was just talking about the various ways you can get down from the top of True Grit - that day I was trying to save some time. It was actually fun getting down the way I describe in the thread. The lodestone is bomber and Lucky's new anchor gets you a good back scratching

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Bruce - with the screwlinks we've done a diagonal rappel back down Twinkle Toes p2 to the p1 rap station. It puts you back down at the bottom of Destiny wall quicker and there is no PO around the base - plus it can be done with 1 rope. BIB takes 2 ropes and there is some scattered PO around the base and growing on the last part of the cliff. The other way I have gotten down from there is to rap back down True Grit to the lodestone, traverse below BMM and then rap from the Lucky 13 anchor. You can also scramble over the top of BMM and do two raps down those stations(starting at 800xx) - just a bit of scattered PO around the base on that one.

Next time I am up there I will put quick links with a link of chain on those bolts.  Been meaning to clean up the anchor on top of pitch 1 as well.

[JC w KC redux]

Next time I am up there I will put quick links with a link of chain on those bolts.  Been meaning to clean up the anchor on top of pitch 1 as well.

You da man Bruce! muchas gracias.

[JC w KC redux]

Tuff Dome Traverse - FA 1973. This route has one bolt that has been replaced with an smc hanger and star dryvin - neither of which is showing any rust. It is the left of the "pair" of bolts shown in position two on the topo on page 220.

The first bolt (above the pillar) is really rusty and on a tab-style/lever-out hanger that is also heavily rusted.





The right bolt of the "pair" is identical to the first bolt above the pillar.

The last bolt on the route is also less than inspiring.





I'm really curious about the bolting of this route now and maybe Brad can give us the back story.
Rubine showed 3 bolts off location and a climbing path leading to the Reg Rte anchor. The last bolt on the route clearly indicates that the route should go to the summit as Brad shows on his topo. The mystery to me is the difference in bolts and hangers between the original first two bolts(same bolt, same hanger) and the last - exposed stud w Leeper. The modern bolt (smc w Star dryvin) looks like it was added later - possibly by using the original second bolt as a safety backup while drilling from stance. I used a body position belay at the top backed up by a large, solid sling knob on the northwest edge.

[JC w KC redux]

Can anybody tell me what kind of bolts these are?

Triple X bolt 6 (bolts/hangers 5, 6 and 8 all appear to be the same - bolt/hanger #7 has been replaced)





South Finger Regular Route bolt 1 (the other 3 bolts and hangers above this one are the same type)