Author Topic: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread (Read 5489434 times)

MUCCI · « **Reply #160 on:** March 28, 2013, 12:08:49 PM »

1/4" x 1.5" ZMACK rivet it is then....

Pansies

F4? · « **Reply #161 on:** March 28, 2013, 04:42:50 PM »

Quote

that's not a HW store. That's a fastener and building supply company.

But they sell...dare I say it...hardware??

Bruce Hildenbrand · « **Reply #162 on:** March 28, 2013, 10:47:03 PM »

Not all threads are created equal. Anything with threads such as wedge bolts and threaded bar stock should have 'rolled' threads and not 'cut' threads. If you don't know the difference between the two types of threads you shouldn't be using wedge bolts or threaded rod for bolting.

Atomizer · « **Reply #163 on:** March 29, 2013, 08:20:01 AM »

Chris Sharma uses bolts with cut threads on his routes... why cant we!!!

mynameismud · « **Reply #164 on:** March 29, 2013, 02:44:00 PM »

because Sharma has been banned.

squiddo · « **Reply #165 on:** March 29, 2013, 02:55:18 PM »

Quote from: mynameismud on March 29, 2013, 02:44:00 PM

because Sharma has been banned.

Bans to effect sharma. He mocks you.

Atomizer · « **Reply #166 on:** March 29, 2013, 03:03:48 PM »

Sharma will be here next week. Time to check out the Leaning Tower 5.15.

squiddo · « **Reply #167 on:** March 29, 2013, 03:05:01 PM »

F4? · « **Reply #168 on:** March 29, 2013, 04:22:40 PM »

Okay, I'll go down to Mungie's HW store and see what they have for Adhesive bolts....

mynameismud · « **Reply #169 on:** March 30, 2013, 01:03:33 AM »

Quote from: squiddo on March 29, 2013, 02:55:18 PM

Bans to effect sharma. He mocks you.

Not high enough on the radar to be mocked.

Bruce Hildenbrand · « **Reply #170 on:** March 31, 2013, 09:24:54 PM »

You can make all the fun you want about the difference between 'rolled' and 'cut' threads, but if you care about the longevity and the safety of the routes you put up you should be using bolts with "rolled" threads in the area where the bolt is is loaded. This is really critical for wedge bolts, but not as critical for bolts such as the Powers 5-piece.

Here are a couple of many references about the subject:

http://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/35903/Thread-cutting-vs-Thread-rolling

http://www.3si.org/forum/f42/any-metallurgists-out-there-want-explain-why-rolled-threads-better-than-cut-326274/

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #171 on:** April 01, 2013, 06:21:07 AM »

I had never even heard of that Bruce.
Nice to know someone so knowledgeable is watching out for us and doing some fine work.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #172 on:** April 01, 2013, 08:14:02 AM »

Thx Bruce! Really insightful information!

I'll check it later for any references to testing the stress fractures that might occur.

Regardless, rolled is the way to go. I think that is what Fixe uses for their wedges, but I suspect hardware studs are more likely to be cut.

Does that sound right Bruce?

Bruce Hildenbrand · « **Reply #173 on:** April 01, 2013, 09:27:37 PM »

Munge,

it varies, but it is cheaper to produce bolts with "cut" threads. It is probably best to avoid anything from your local hardware store and only order from trusted suppliers like Fixe. Alternatively, if you know exactly what you want and are certain of the design you can buy in bulk from people like McMasters-Carr.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #174 on:** April 07, 2013, 03:09:31 PM »

I climbed yesterday on Rumbling Rampart. I realize this is a fairly obscure route that has no stars but I would still recommend it to someone starting to lead. It has some fun and committing moves and is well protected. The FA was 1993, so the hardware is almost 20 years old. I am not familiar with the time standards, but I can only assume that since they are rusty - the bolts/nuts must not be stainless. Bolt 3 looks suspicious. I think it was bolt 5 that has a nut showing a little rust. One of the two anchor bolts is definitely substandard size.

Bruce Hildenbrand · « **Reply #175 on:** April 09, 2013, 12:01:22 AM »

Yes, that last bolt is definitely either a 1/4" or 5/16" wedge bolt. I definitely would not recommend that type or size of bolt at the Pinnacles. My guess is that bolt #3 is also a 5/16" wedge bolt.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #176 on:** April 16, 2013, 09:56:09 AM »

There is a single, old bolt anchor for the belay for pitch one of Lost Horizons. Luckily there is also body position and I socked in a nut and an alien and equalized them in a small crack behind me. There is a real potential for a follower to fall on the traverse leading to this anchor and take a decent swing - although a large knob serves as a directional for the rope a few feet out from the anchor.

Looks like someone bashed/smashed the hell out of this bolt/stud and the homemade hanger is loose. FA 1976

F4? · « **Reply #177 on:** April 16, 2013, 06:57:47 PM »

Looks like a beyer bolt and hanger.

Jim · « **Reply #178 on:** April 16, 2013, 08:05:29 PM »

Nope. That's a genuine Barbella hanger. You younguns just don't realize what a bomber bolt was back in those days.

Brad Young · « **Reply #179 on:** April 16, 2013, 09:04:18 PM »

Quote from: Jim on April 16, 2013, 08:05:29 PM

Nope. That's a genuine Barbella hanger. You younguns just don't realize what a bomber bolt was back in those days.

Is this is the same Jim that used to post under his full name? I think so.

Didn't you and John and crew deliberately smash over the top threads of those bolts to prevent hanger theft?

News:

Author Topic: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread (Read 5489434 times)