Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[mungeclimber]

new fun creative pieces out there

bingo, first thing I thought too!

what would be a sweet piece to bolt (as pro/supplement to pro)?

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Bruce,
I admire the work that you and Clint do and I think the two of you about are about the best there is.  I agree that not having the pin as a hanger is a good idea.  Just thought have the old piece in parallel would be nice.  Does this mean we are going to go and remove all the old historical pieces because someone might take them?  Well on the bright side hopefully this will inspire folks to go about and put some new fun creative pieces out there.

Nope.  When it is appropriate and safe we leave the history in place.  A good example is The Shaft.  I replaced all the bolts in the bolt ladder except the 2nd to last one which is a 1/4" Rawl split shaft with a Lost Arrow as a hanger.  Another example is the north ridge of the Fourth Sister.  The crux is right at the start and is protected by a nice, new bolt.  The second bolt which is just above is an old Star Dryvin with a classic Longware hanger.  I didn't replace that one as it is a nice slice of history.

It's always a judgement call.  Both Clint and I have a very healthy respect for history and we try to preserve it when it seems appropriate.

[mynameismud]

Nope.  When it is appropriate and safe we leave the history in place.  A good example is The Shaft.  I replaced all the bolts in the bolt ladder except the 2nd to last one which is a 1/4" Rawl split shaft with a Lost Arrow as a hanger.  Another example is the north ridge of the Fourth Sister.  The crux is right at the start and is protected by a nice, new bolt.  The second bolt which is just above is an old Star Dryvin with a classic Longware hanger.  I didn't replace that one as it is a nice slice of history.

It's always a judgement call.  Both Clint and I have a very healthy respect for history and we try to preserve it when it seems appropriate.

Ok, noted and thank you for the work.  Really impressed with how much you guys get out. 

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

I'm free on Fridays if you ever want an extra hand and are willing to school me.

JC,

Thanks for the offer! Currently we are heading up there mid-week, but will let you know if that changes.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

BTW, I should have mentioned earlier that the bolts and hangers Clint and I use during rebolting are supplied by the ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org).  They appreciate your support!

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Clint and I were rebolting on the west side yesterday.  We replaced the 2nd, 3rd and 4th protection bolts on the first pitch of Alias Bandit Bench(I had replaced the 1st bolt back in 2006).  Clint found the hardest rock ever at the Pinnacles to add a second stainless steel bolt to the anchor on top of the first pitch.  2+ hours to drill a 3.5" x 3/8" hole!  We added 3/8" quick links and 3/8" chain to the anchor for rappel.  We also replaced the 1st and 2nd bolts on the True Grit variation and put a SS Petzl hanger on the 3rd bolt.

It appears that sometime in the past somebody replaced the last(4th -pitch 1, 3rd-pitch 2) bolts on each of these pitches with 3.5" x3/8" Rawl Split shafts.

We climbed the second pitch of Alias Bandit Bench (going climbers left) and replaced all the thin SMC plated hangers with either SS SMC hangers, SS Petzl hangers or Leepers.  There were just too many bolts on that pitch and we ran out of SS hangers, but the bolts are so close together it shouldn't matter.

BTW, Lucky 13 looks to be established with a power drill.  There is no way a sane person would drill that many bolts so close together on the easy terrain of pitch 2 by hand.

Lastly, Clint replaced the two Star Dryvin bolts at the belay for pitch 2 of Machete Direct.

All in all, either via rebolting or replacing suspect hangers we swapped out 10 of the thin SMC hangers for either SS or Leeper.

[JC w KC redux]

Clint and I were rebolting on the west side yesterday.  We replaced the 2nd, 3rd and 4th protection bolts on the first pitch of Alias Bandit Bench(I had replaced the 1st bolt back in 2006).  Clint found the hardest rock ever at the Pinnacles to add a second stainless steel bolt to the anchor on top of the first pitch.  2+ hours to drill a 3.5" x 3/8" hole!  We added 3/8" quick links and 3/8" chain to the anchor for rappel.  We also replaced the 1st and 2nd bolts on the True Grit variation and put a SS Petzl hanger on the 3rd bolt.

It appears that sometime in the past somebody replaced the last(4th -pitch 1, 3rd-pitch 2) bolts on each of these pitches with 3.5" x3/8" Rawl Split shafts.

We climbed the second pitch of Alias Bandit Bench (going climbers left) and replaced all the thin SMC plated hangers with either SS SMC hangers, SS Petzl hangers or Leepers.  There were just too many bolts on that pitch and we ran out of SS hangers, but the bolts are so close together it shouldn't matter.

BTW, Lucky 13 looks to be established with a power drill.  There is no way a sane person would drill that many bolts so close together on the easy terrain of pitch 2 by hand.

Lastly, Clint replaced the two Star Dryvin bolts at the belay for pitch 2 of Machete Direct.

All in all, either via rebolting or replacing suspect hangers we swapped out 10 of the thin SMC hangers for either SS or Leeper.

You guys are on Fire! I definitely won't miss those first pitch bolts on ABB. The 2nd pitch never bothered me much since there are so many bolts and the climbing is so easy. It is good to know that there's something sturdier there now though. Really glad that you got that anchor done - I did not like those SMC death hangers and one of the bolts was flexing in its hole. I will definitely have to get back up there and do True Grit.

[mynameismud]

Bruce,

Any chance you and Clint can rebolt Perigrine next year when it opens?  Not all the bolts would need to be replaced perhaps just every third one.  The second pitch is kinda sketch as a lead the way it is.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Bruce,

Any chance you and Clint can rebolt Perigrine next year when it opens?  Not all the bolts would need to be replaced perhaps just every third one.  The second pitch is kinda sketch as a lead the way it is.

Clint has tried to talk to me into doing this as a project several times over the years.  So far there have been other objectives which I was more inclined to do.  We'll have to see.

[mynameismud]

Clint has tried to talk to me into doing this as a project several times over the years.  So far there have been other objectives which I was more inclined to do.  We'll have to see.

Ok, cool.  Well keep it in the back of you mind.  I would be will to buy La Costenia burritos.  Just need enough bolts to keep the leader off the belayer in case of a fall.  I am talking free not aid.

[JC w KC redux]

On Hummingbird Spire yesterday there was one replaced bolt with one chain and an old bolt with webbing threaded through the chain - resulting in a rappel from a single link.

We removed the old webbing and put on a new piece equalized with the end of the chain.
Obviously not the right solution but it was all we had.

The old bolt is tight with an angle iron hanger.

My suggestion would be to add a screwlink and enough links of chain (not sure how many?) to the old bolt to equalize this anchor. The screwlink on the replaced bolt is smaller than 3/8"

Even better would be to replace the old bolt. RB shows 2002 on Buckwheats Bender but there is no mention of the anchor. Maybe the rebolter didn't have enough materials that day?

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Clint and I were rebolting at the Pinnacles on Wednesday.  We removed the two old bolts on top of Hummingbird Spire and added a second anchor bolt(3.5x3/8" SS Rawl).  The other bolt is a 3"x3/8" plated Rawl but it is looking very good and should last a long, long time.  We added chain and a quick link to the new bolt.  You can rappel in either direction from the anchor.

We then went over to Toogs.  We replaced the three protection bolts on Toog's Alligator and also on Toog's Tarbaby.  Two of the bolts on the Alligator were in highly suspect rock so they were moved to better rock.  It is worth noting that there is a lot of poison oak on the second pitch of Alligator both in the start to the Alligator chimney and also the easy chimney section below it.

We then went over to Toogs Gallery and replaced all the bolts except the first one(3/8" Rawl Split shaft on which we put a nice, new hanger).  A bunch of the bolts on this climb were 1/4" x 3" red head type bolts in which a cone gets pushed up into the end of the shaft when you pound the bolt in.

Clint was 'en fuego' with the crowbar and tuning forks on both Toog's and Hummingbird.

I am promoting Chuck RIchards to the official "Dirt Bag" climber status.  The majority of the bolts he put in at the Pinnacles are a total abomination.  Back  in the early 70's when he did the majority of his routes, 3/8" Star Dryvins and Leeper, etc. hangers were the norm.  Richards, and his crew for that matter, used a lot of 1/4" x 1" Rawl split shafts with home made hangers.  Not only were the bolts completely substandard for the Pinnacles at the time, but many of the home made hangers were just aluminum L-bar stock which was cut and drilled.  No heat treatment.  No nothing.   Of course, given the crappy bolts one could argue that the hangers were appropriate, but....

Thanks to the ASCA(www.safeclimbing.org) for providing the bolts and hangers.  They appreciate your support.

[squiddo]

Wow nice. Bruce thanks to you and clint for the work here. MUCH appreciated

[JC w KC redux]

Clint and I were rebolting at the Pinnacles on Wednesday. Hummingbird Spire added a second anchor bolt, added chain and a quick link to the new bolt.  You can rappel in either direction from the anchor.

We then went over to Toogs.  We replaced the three protection bolts on Toog's Alligator and also on Toog's Tarbaby.    It is worth noting that there is a lot of poison oak on the second pitch of Alligator both in the start to the Alligator chimney and also the easy chimney section below it.

We then went over to Toogs Gallery and replaced all the bolts except the first one

I am promoting Chuck Richards to the official "Dirt Bag" climber status. 

WOW!!! You guys are amazing - I never expected to see the Hummingbird work done so quickly.

Brad had talked about working on Toog's with me this season but it looks like that will be unnecessary now - thanks!
I'll never forget linking the first two pitches on the Gallery and reaching that POS anchor - now all but a memory and some pics.

I did suspect some PO on Alligator after looking down as we traversed across the top of the chimney while onsighting the Gallery. Thanks for that heads up as I have been meaning to go back there and do that route.

If you want another Richards climb to add to the list we did Lonely Sheepherder on Goat Rock on 1-11-13 and almost all those bolts appear to be garbage. The first one has the type of aluminum hanger you described. I intend to head back up there this summer when it dries out and the closures are lifted.

[mungeclimber]

Muds, what about making Bruce a mod, so he can update a master list of the updates? That way they can all be in one spot? 

I can do it, but I'll be behind the times at the rate of replacement these guys are firing on!!  Thanks guys!

[MUCCI]

That plated bolt on Humming bird spire is my addition, many years ago.  Lars Johnson and partner had the week before climbed Lars's Buckweats bender, and they rappelled off of the crap anchor.  He told me to go up there and add another one.  As to the orientation, I placed it that way to facilitate equalizing the bolt toward the gap, for a retreat down the original route.

This was the first rebolting effort I had made up and till that point I believe.  It sparked me to contact ASCA and get the hardware and start making a difference.

Thanks for cleaning up the mess!

And

Thanks again for all of the hard work B+C!!!

[mungeclimber]

Thanks for cleaning up the mess!

what mess? Sounds like you made it safe to get off the thing. I rapped off those crusty old things a long time ago. Glad to more recently have rapped off the plated addition!


"The other bolt is a 3"x3/8" plated Rawl but it is looking very good and should last a long, long time"

[mynameismud]

Muds, what about making Bruce a mod, so he can update a master list of the updates? That way they can all be in one spot? 

I can do it, but I'll be behind the times at the rate of replacement these guys are firing on!!  Thanks guys!

ok

[mynameismud]

Bruce/Clint your mods so you can update/change this thread as you wish.

[JC w KC redux]

Tourist Trap and Discovery Wall

I discovered these sub standard screwlinks and aluminum rings at the pitch 1 anchor for Pastie/Thrill Hammer. It's my understanding that the aluminum rings should be doubled or replaced with SS rings. Most people probably don't rappel from here - maybe these screwlinks and rings should just be removed? I'm probably going back up there Friday.


I also noticed and clipped an old bolt and hanger on Entrance. The climb is listed as having two bolts but only one is shown on the topo - and that one is good. This one is on the big ledge before/below the crux bulge. Probably not a high priority since it occurs to me that the entire climb could be done on gear alone.