Had a nice cool morning to lead Toog's Gallery yesterday. The bolts were threaded studs with nuts. The stud size looked like substandard 1/4" hardware store junk to me - not exactly confidence inspiring. I treated the bolted sections like a solo with the exception of my gear placements. To my dismay, one of the anchor studs at the top of p1 was the same junk. One of the hangers was homemade (square angle with drilled hole - like in the guidebook pg 24 example c) with a star dryvin and i barely got my carabiner through. At least one of the hangers on p1 was the same homemade type and the hanger above the crux was too. My wc nitros wouldn't go through, but luckily I had two bd draws with keylock noses that were very tight but doable(barely). My main concern was the belay anchor at the demarcation ledge. I did not trust it. There was a tree about 10 feet away in the crack (toward alligator) so I slung it and clipped a section of rope in. I seem to remember seeing a bunch of old slings on another smaller tree too (maybe that was the traditional backup). I'd have to go back up and look again. Not sure why I didn't sling that one instead. Regardless, I figured if my pard took a big fall(not likely) and both the anchors blew, at least we probably wouldn't die - IF the tree held (seemed solid enough).
Does anyone have an opinion on that anchor?
One other thing I noticed was a lone bolt just past the water streak after you scramble across the top of alligator chimney - it's not on the guidebook topo - page 306. Star dryvin with a "modern" shape albeit thin metal, loose hanger.
We continued further along the ledge before scrambling up unprotected - as shown on the guidebook pic - pg 305.
all in all a fun and adventurous multi pitch but i just did not trust that anchor.
I looked for a cam placement in the crack underneath but it was crap.
i can take some pics too if that would be helpful.
