Author Topic: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread  (Read 5544141 times)

squiddo

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #80 on: January 17, 2013, 12:30:30 PM »
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #81 on: January 17, 2013, 12:49:56 PM »
what going on with this thread? Rob - your original post for this thread now starts page 3?
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Brad Young

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #82 on: January 17, 2013, 12:51:36 PM »
what going on with this thread? Rob - your original post for this thread now starts page 3?

All of the sticky threads start that way - the main subject, in the first post, stays in front too.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #83 on: January 17, 2013, 12:52:42 PM »
They left the first, 3/8" inch bolt and replaced three others with new bolts. They left one unreplaced.

Okay - thanks - I made a note in my guidebook.
Aaron and I thought about doing that route the day we went up there but ran short of time.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #84 on: January 17, 2013, 12:53:51 PM »
All of the sticky threads start that way - the main subject, in the first post, stays in front too.

thanks Brad - never noticed that before. Guess I need to work on my observational skills :)
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mungeclimber

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #85 on: January 17, 2013, 01:57:10 PM »
I suppose I should update the original post with a list of rebolting to date, and proposed rebolts so that it's not all over the place.

project for later, but I'll do it unless Mud has time to consolidate...
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #86 on: January 17, 2013, 02:31:54 PM »
If you do mind that would be great.  If I was not so busy with work I may actually get out an climb.  Have managed the gym for the third consecutive week.
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Brad Young

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #87 on: January 17, 2013, 02:40:34 PM »
I suppose I should update the original post with a list of rebolting to date, and proposed rebolts so that it's not all over the place.

project for later, but I'll do it unless Mud has time to consolidate...

That would be a great project. But, among others, you'd have to ask Bruce and Clint to let you know what the do (and what they've done. They usually just go out quietly, rebolt some route and leave it at that. On the other hand, they usually do it for the ASCA, and maybe the ASCA could help track what's been done?

JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #88 on: January 17, 2013, 03:02:47 PM »
maybe the ASCA could help track what's been done?

Their website has a list for Pinns.

http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/pinnacles.htm
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mungeclimber

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #89 on: January 17, 2013, 03:27:52 PM »
This would have to be a supplement for what we collect for the mudders. The ASCA site doesn't get updated regularly. It looks like it hasn't gotten updated since 2010 as of today.

I'm sure we could ask Bruce and Clint their thoughts on whether this site is a good place to keep track of rebolting, or if they are already are elsewhere, to have them post up regularly and we just update it.

Anyways, it won't always be comprehensive, but if we clean it up some and start using it ourselves... if you post it, they will come.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #90 on: January 17, 2013, 04:44:40 PM »
Or if their site is kept up to date we can link their site a the top of the sticky.  Which ever works best for everyone.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #91 on: January 17, 2013, 05:15:32 PM »
added Clint's Site, FOP and ASCA links to the OP for now
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Bruce Hildenbrand

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #92 on: January 17, 2013, 11:55:46 PM »
Here's the skinny on Big Marmot Rock.  It looks like the original FA used a bolt ladder of six 1/4" Rawl split shaft bolts. Over time, only the fifth bolt in the ladder had a hanger.  Somewhere in time, most likely the mid to late 80's, someone added the first bolt which looks like a 3/8" Rawl split shaft with a good, thick SMC stainless hanger making a total of seven bolts on the route.

Clint and I replaced the first, third and fifth bolts in the 1/4" ladder with 3/8" x 3/5" SS Rawl 5-piece bolts. We removed the second, fourth and sixth bolts which were all just studs with no nuts or hangers. We left the 3/8" bolt so there are now four bolts on the route.

 We replaced the 1/4" anchor bolt with two 3/8"x3.5"  SS Rawls and added quick links and chains for rappel.

Bruce

ps - Sister Spire and the Powell route on the Monolith are on the list for next week if the weather holds.

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #93 on: January 18, 2013, 05:11:38 PM »
We replaced the 1/4" anchor bolt with two 3/8"x3.5"  SS Rawls and added quick links and chains for rappel.

Thanks for all the work you do Bruce.
I'm free on Fridays if you ever want an extra hand and are willing to school me.

I look forward to heading back up on the Marmot - and that route is on my list. I onsighted Marauder, Dead On the Shoulder and Marmot with a Hand Grenade last time. Love it up there!

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Bruce Hildenbrand

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #94 on: January 24, 2013, 04:08:39 PM »
Clint and I were at the Pinns in the rain and wind on Wednesday doing some rebolting.  Here's a bit of a report.

Sister Spire - we replaced the protection bolt on the 5.6 route and replaced the rappel bolts on top.  As a bit of a warning, the two Star Dryvins which comprised the lone protection bolt and one of the bolts in the anchor were installed improperly in that the sleeves, which facilitate pull-out strength, were under the hanger and not on top(bad, very bad).  Only the force holding in the nail was keeping those bolts in place.
As an aside, the two hangers were drilled for 1/4" which is the same diameter of the nail.  You need a 3/8" hanger to properly install a 3/8" Star Dryvin.

One important note on the new rappel anchor.  Because you can approach this climb from both the west and north we had to try and make the direction of the rappel anchor accommodate both scenarios.  Those who want to rap off to the west are advised to wrap into the 5.2 approach gully and continue the
rappel in that direction.  It is not advised to rappel directly west off the anchor.

Third Sister - we replaced two of the three protection bolts (the first bolt was a plated Rawl 5-piece) and installed a new rappel anchor.  Unfortunately, somebody had already replaced the two anchor bolts with nice 5-piece Rawls, but they put the bolts too far back from the top of the pinnacle to make a very useable rappel anchor.  We also removed four 1/4" rawl stud bolts (no hangers) which were probably from the original ascent.

Monolith Northeast Corner - we replaced Mark Powell's bolted piton, the only protection bolt on this route.

All new bolts are 3/8"x3.5" Stainless Steel Powers 5-piece bolts.

mungeclimber

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #95 on: January 24, 2013, 04:12:58 PM »
Quote
Monolith Northeast Corner - we replaced Mark Powell's bolted piton, the only protection bolt on this route.

Can you elaborate on this unique piece please?
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Bruce Hildenbrand

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #96 on: January 24, 2013, 10:16:37 PM »
Munge,

see Reply #41 in this thread for a photo of the bolted piton which is a Stubai knifeblade style piton with a 3/8" hole drilled in it to accept a bolt which in this case was a very short 3/8" Star Dryvin.

mungeclimber

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #97 on: January 25, 2013, 10:30:25 AM »
Sorry, let me be more clear. Was the piton re-used as the hanger, or was both the bolt and hanger itself replaced?

If it was not re-used, why not?
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Clint Cummins

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #98 on: January 25, 2013, 10:52:19 AM »


This is an updated topo showing the bolts now in place after Bruce and I did the replacement on 1/16/2013.

Clint Cummins

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #99 on: January 25, 2013, 10:56:09 AM »
Rob,

> Was the piton re-used as the hanger, or was both the bolt and hanger itself replaced?

The piton was not re-used - new stainless bolt and hanger.

> If it was not re-used, why not?

I thought about using it, but I was concerned someone might think it was a valuable relic and take it.