Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

The earlier version (and still available) of carbide bits tips were this equal angle type.

 The latest type of 3/8s that i received from Fixe has a raised center and drills very efficiently. The flutes don't extend as far up the shaft as the previous model, requiring the bit to be pulled one or two times after they are buried.

  I was wondering if your 10 mm Fixe bit has a raised center?

Clink,

the tip profile looks like the rightmost bit in JC's photo.  Since the bit says 'Made in Germany.  It is probably a Bosch bit.

[clink]

 

the tip profile looks like the rightmost bit in JC's photo.  Since the bit says 'Made in Germany.  It is probably a Bosch bit.

Thanks for the info. I can tell a difference, not sure what part of the new design it is. I have bits going back to the eighties. It would be interesting to a depth vs. time comparison.

They are Tungsten Carbide tipped. Now if El Dingo would just Get Off My Lawn... Grin

 I must have the proper instruments in case JC needs me to perform emergency trepanning to save his life.

[mynameismud]

I think clink is the drilling standard, at the Pins anyway.

[JC w KC redux]

I must have the proper instruments in case JC needs me to perform emergency trepanning to save his life.

Four syllables.

[clink]

Two back. 

[waldo]

I think clink is the drilling standard, at the Pins anyway.

He's got my vote.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Anyone headed to Red Rocks this weekend to attend the "Future for Fixed Anchors II" conference?

https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/access-fund-to-convene-future-of-fixed-anchors-ii-conference

The Access Fund asked me to attend the first one in 2012, but I had a scheduling conflict.  Luckily, I can make this one.  I will be on a panel discussing a bunch of topics.  They want me to speak on hand drilling.  It seems like this is only a problem for us Californians (Yosemite and Pinnacles).  They also want me to speak about dealing with local organizations to obtain permission to rebolt.  Thankfully, we don't need to do that at the Pinnacles or Yosemite, but in Colorado where I live part of the year it is a reality for places like Boulder and outside of Golden(yes, Munge, where they brew Coors beer).

Several of us will be giving a clinic on the second day on how to remove different types of bolts.

If you are planning on attending let me know.

[JC w KC redux]

I got out Friday, April 1st for some rebolting and recon.
I started at The Proctor which had a 1/4" single anchor bolt with a Leeper hanger.
I pulled the old bolt and reused the hole and then placed another bolt.
The summit now has a proper 2 bolt anchor.
The spring in my rocpec broke while I was finishing drilling the 1st hole.
Luckily the ball bearing didn't roll off the crag when things fell apart.
I put the pieces back together and then taped the whole thing closed so it couldn't fall apart again.
All I could think was - "glad that didn't happen on stance on an  FA!"
I had to "limp" the second hole with the taped array.

Old bolt at The Proctor





Replacement anchor The Proctor





I popped over to Teaching Rock to give those anchors a look. All but one hanger is modern and the one that is homemade is beefy. That hanger and the bolt in it are rusted. It’s the one above the 5.4 route. Some of the other hangers are loose but all the bolts are tight. I don’t see this as a concern, since there are so many bolts within close proximity of each other. If someone is concerned, they can rig back ups between adjacent anchors.

I went out to the Sisters next to check on the hive in the pocketed rock that leads up to Silhouette Arete.
The "bees" are fully active again and swarming around the various climbs - anyone with allergies might want to rethink leading anything around Heaven's Gate or 4th or 5th Sister.
I had intended to inspect the bolts on Going The Wong Way but the swarm put an end to that.
Maybe Gavin or Alacia can tell us what kind of "bees" are in this hive in the rocks – yellow jackets perhaps? I didn’t want to get close enough to find out.

clink had expressed some concern about the anchors and bolts at Upper Crust. I scrambled up top and looked things over. Some of the bolts are not stainless but the majority of the hardware is modern and all the hangers are tight. Some of the bolts are showing light surface rust.
The only anchor hangers that are homemade are on Organ Grinder and the bolts are studs - so there is no way to tell if they are wedge bolts or split shafts. They are tight and showing light surface rust. All bolts are 3/8. There are no star dryvins or Leepers on anything I could see.
Bolt 5 on Relayer is a hangerless stud.

[JC w KC redux]

1. Rings should go on #314, Gerties SW Face Far Left. There are anchors, but getting down requires downclimbing a 4th class chimney (and not at all third class).  Request by Mungeclimber.
2. Little Sister Spire needs camo chains. Note that bolts are recessed from edge. It had someone's bright cordage for a rap station. This is a visible spire from the trail. Request by Mungeclimber and Squiddo.
3. Heaven's Gate - second to last bolt needs re-aligning. FA author has approved moving, [urlhttp://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=1587.0]if old hole is patched and new hardware uses stainless[/url].
4. Lucky 13. One hanger and bolt has galvanic corrosion but is fairly large bolt but potential thin type SMC hanger. Other anchor bolt reportedly flexing. Small diameter quick links need replacing with camo chain? They were small diameter. Request by JC.
5. Osiris - could use upgrade. Unknown "old" bolt condition. Request by JC.
6. Toog's Gallery - Lead bolts and anchor bolts at top of p1 look 1/4". Request by JC.
7. NE Corner of Monolith - Rusty Star Dryv needs replacing. However, "hanger" is special type "drilled piton". After inspection, brushing, and painting, it would be nice to leave the hanger in place if it appears ok. Possibly one of the last ones at Pinns. Request by JC and Mungeclimber.
8. Big Marmot anchor. Needs replacing smaller diameter rusty POS and camo chains.
9. No Smiles. First bolt is bad thin old SMC type hanger. Bolt appears to be good.

I'll try and add the list of already replaced items later...

Hi Rob,
I've been trying to do some cleanup of open items.
I'll address your items here.
1. I free soloed this line last year (5-1-15). I wrote in my climbing log that it took more time and energy to get back down than it did to free solo the route. If we are going to add chains for rappel, then why not make this a regular route rather than a TR. Technically it is no longer a TR since it has been led - right? Has anyone else free soloed this thing? I wrote in my log that it has knobs that could be slung or could be bolted ground up with as little as one bolt for the crux move. After that it is lower angle and easy.
Does anyone else care to comment? Would anyone care to contact Rubine regarding this route?
 2. This item is resolved.
3. I have plans to relocate this bolt when the hive at 4th sister goes dormant. I also plan to rebolt Silhouette Arete and inspect/replace bolts on Going The Wong Way.
4. This item is resolved.
5. This item is resolved.
6. This item is resolved.
7. This item is resolved.
8. This item is resolved.
9. This item is open. I can put this on my to do list when the closures are lifted. It sounds like only the hanger needs replaced. My records indicate that you replaced bolt 2 in Dec 2012.

[mynameismud]

#1 yes.  Leave as is.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Clint and I have been out rebolting over the past few months on Dragonfly Dome, Egg Shell, Freedom Dome, Condor Crags and the Yaks.   Here is a quick synopsis:

Dragonfly Dome:

We removed the two old anchor bolts.  My friend Nick Badyrka had placed a 3/8" stainless bolt on the summit in 2003 to facilitate a tyrolean traverse from Dragonfly to Side Horse.  We used that bolt and drilled another 3/8" stainless and put the chains on these two bolts.  BTW, I unscrewed the top protection bolt which Brooks White and I placed in 1995.  It is a 3/8" Rawl plated 5-piece with SS hanger.  The bolt shaft was shiny and looked nearly new after 21 years!

Egg Shell:

We replaced the 2nd protection bolt which was an old 3/8" star dryvin.  We replaced one of the anchor bolts which was a 3/8" Rawl split shaft.

Freedom Dome:

we replaced the homemade hanger on the 3rd protection bolt(3/8" wedge bolt installed by David Rubine in 1990) and the Leeper hanger on the 2nd protection bolt(3/8" plated Rawl 5-piece Brooks White and I installed in 1995).  We replaced the first bolt(1/4" Rawl split shaft).  We removed the poorly placed Star Dryvin(next to a good Star Dryvin) on Captain Crunch.

Condor Crags:

We replaced the rappel anchor between the two summits with SS hardware.  We replaced one of the anchor bolts on the North Summit rappel anchor. We replaced 8 of the 10 bolts on For ME.  We ran out of sunlight, energy and bolts all at about the same time.

Yaks:

We replaced the five bolts on Beast of Burden.  We also removed an old Star Dryvin just sitting out in nowhere behind the Yaks rappel.

[JC w KC redux]

I updated the Master List

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

JC,

thanks!  And thanks for all your hard work!  In the 1990's I did a lot of solo rebolting.  It's more fun to have somebody else around to hear you swearing when that damn rusted Star Dryvin just won't come out!

[JC w KC redux]

JC,
thanks!  And thanks for all your hard work!  In the 1990's I did a lot of solo rebolting.  It's more fun to have somebody else around to hear you swearing when that damn rusted Star Dryvin just won't come out!

No problem Bruce. I really like working on stuff. I'm getting back to it slowly but surely. I agree that it is better to have someone to share the agony and ecstasy with 

Here's a pic of that old bolt on Freedom Dome 

[F4?]

I always stared at those bolts on captain crunch thinking....wtf?

On Eggshell did you replace the 1 star on the Holmgren route??

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

John,

that hanger was actually made for sale in the 1960's by Cassin in Ialy.

F4,

the route on Eggshell was put up by Tom Higgins.  Captain Crunch on Freedom Dome is a Holmgren route.  We removed a very poorly placed Star Dryvin on that route.  I am not sure which bolt it was, but there was a much better looking bolt next to it.

[JC w KC redux]

I went out to the Sisters next to check on the hive in the pocketed rock that leads up to Silhouette Arete.
The "bees" are fully active again and swarming around the various climbs - anyone with allergies might want to rethink leading anything around Heaven's Gate or 4th or 5th Sister.
I had intended to inspect the bolts on Going The Wong Way but the swarm put an end to that.
Maybe Gavin or Alacia can tell us what kind of "bees" are in this hive in the rocks – yellow jackets perhaps? I didn’t want to get close enough to find out.

After reading that there are 475 species of bees at Pinnacles...

[F4?]

Hey Bruce,

It was Preferred Freedom...On the right side of Freedom Dome, using natural gear up to a small roof with 1 bolt.

I still trip at the fact that the Digger Pine branch was NOT in the way of the EggShell 5.8 route when I did it with Mungie 20 yrs ago!

Thanks!

[clink]

475! A new goal for Brad and JC. Documentation of how many species they can touch, how many times they get stung, FULL SIZE pics of swelling.

[JC w KC redux]

475! A new goal for Brad and JC. Documentation of how many species they can touch, how many times they get stung, FULL SIZE pics of swelling.

DIE!