Here is an update on some of the rebolting Clint and I have been doing in the last several months.
Clint, his son, Skylar, and I went up on North and South Fingers. We replaced the two bolts on top of South Finger, one was a wedge bolt, the other was an eye bolt which looks bomber, but is actually just a 3/8"x1" coarse thread lag screw that is screwed into a lag shield anchor. Yikes!
On South Finger we also replaced three of the four bolts(60's or so Star Dryvins). This was a bit of a toss-up as the bolts were added over 50 years ago, but after the first ascent. They are in all the guidebooks(except Hammack's)s so we decided to replace them. We left the bottom bolt as a historical relic.
On North Finger we replaced the old Star Dyvin with aluminum strap hanger and also removed another one of those eye bolts.
Clint and I went up on Daedulus and replaced five of the seven bolts in the bolt ladder of the end of the 2nd or start of the 3rd pitch(depending on how you do the climb). Clint and I replaced the top bolt in the ladder a few years ago so that means we left one bolt(fifth in the ladder) as an original and as a testament to Glenn and Gary. All bolts on this route except the aformentioned 5th bolt in the ladder are now replaced.
BTW, that is a very steep overhang. Clint could not reach the 1st bolt on a rope from above so I came up from the belay and standing on that horribly sloping, loose ledge, clipped myself into one of Clint's aiders. Then, for about a 60 second interval, I would reach up, grab Clint's harness and pull him into the rock so he could drill out the original hole. I would then let go and Clint would swing back out into space. It took a while to drill that 1st bolt! In talking to Glenn Denny about this he had a laugh and said that, yes, his height was sometimes an advantage.
Because Glenn was able to drill the bolts so far apart we were really concerned about using the same holes so as not to make a clip all but impossible by moving a bolt up or down a bit.
Lastly, Clint and I went over to the Nexus/Sexus/Plexus area to do some rebolting. Unfortunately, even after minimal rain for the past two weeks there was still a lot of water on the routes. We managed to replace the anchors on top of the 2nd and 3rd pitches of Nexus with Fixe double ring hangers, and Clint put in a new bolt at the crux of the 1st pitch.
However, we couldn't do any rebolting of the other lead bolts because they were in a running water streak. Also, it appears that Jack Holmgren glued in a lot of the Star Dryvins which means that we have to chop out the old bolt and drill a new hole. We hope to come back in the fall and do what we can.
We also added a bolt to the top of Sexus. We could have chopped out the old bolt and replaced it, but since we would have to drill a new hole anyway we just added a bolt.
Brad and Alan replaced the two bolts on top of Plexus in December 2014.
