Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[JC w KC redux]

The cone has to have the slits so it can expand as the bolt is threaded through.  It is the same idea as the Triplex bolt, the aluminum sleeve has a slit on each side. 

I have to respectfully disagree and ask that you reread the product description from Powers in my post.
The sleeve provides the mid level holding power and the slotted cone adds an extra degree of holding power deeper and a locking action to combat vibration.

I think it is this locking action that is causing the problems when the bolts are over torqued and/or the rock is too soft to withstand the required torque.

The current design Powers non stainless sleeve bolts don't have the slotted nose cone (as far as I can tell from the pictures). I'd be curious to know how they perform in comparison.

[mynameismud]

I prefer to just look at the pictures.

[NOAL]

Wooooot Woot!

[JC w KC redux]

I prefer to just look at the pictures.

Then I am not talking to you anymore.

DIE! - that goes for you too nelkins (aka the new woot boy!)

[mynameismud]

It is just
DIE

[JC w KC redux]

It is just
DIE

Wait...did you guys hear something?...I think there is a mosquito buzzing around in here...

[clink]

deal with all the finicky intricacies

What we need is

[clink]

You can see that the cone construction is clearly different between the two.  He believes, as we do, that this is a design/production problem.

The tolerances of the drill bit used must meet the requirements...

Cutting corners leads to cutting coroners.

[clink]

 To reiterate my frustration with the tolerances of bits vs bolts and poor working results of the 5 piece, this is not the 60's-80's.
Instead of a trip to the local hardware store we order bolts from a climbing hardware supplier. Initial bolt failure is something new. FIXE and Powers get your sh#t together.










 I feel better now, have a nice day.
 

[mungeclimber]

JC,
Both in the pic have slotted noses. Are you saying stainless does not have the purported weakness?

I'm still not seeing root cause of a design failure tied to a specific model. What I hear is crappy rock can cause failure.

I'll reread later.


 

[Brad Young]

There's something going on about the new design (I can see slight differences). And, unseen, maybe the manufacturing quality is not as it used to be.

Bad rock would excuse some bad bolts, but there are way more spinners going on than I've ever seen. Way more. And by very experienced bolters (several who've done 100+ bolts each).

[clink]

The old ones worked 100 % of  the time.

"the Devil is in the details" has an o-ring to it.

[waldo]

The old ones worked 100 % of  the time.

"the Devil is in the details" has an o-ring to it.

Clink, I agree, though I managed to create a five-piece spinner on Angle Iron. 

[JC w KC redux]

Clink, I agree, though I managed to create a five-piece spinner on Angle Iron. 

Just goes to show there is one in every crowd!

[clink]

Clink, I agree, though I managed to create a five-piece spinner on Angle Iron. 

 If I remember right, you fell during the placement and punctured your blood bag. Great times climbing with you Waldo through the years. You have tested 2 of my bolts. I took a fall breaking a hold on one of your and Jack's routes, may have been your bolt.

[waldo]

If I remember right, you fell during the placement and punctured your blood bag. Great times climbing with you Waldo through the years. You have tested 2 of my bolts. I took a fall breaking a hold on one of your and Jack's routes, may have been your bolt.

Great indeed and I trust we're not done yet - climbing that is. We can kiss the bolt testing good-bye.

[mungeclimber]

Waldo wants to hit the ice circuit at Pinns. He's in training for something big.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

There's something going on about the new design (I can see slight differences). And, unseen, maybe the manufacturing quality is not as it used to be.

Bad rock would excuse some bad bolts, but there are way more spinners going on than I've ever seen. Way more. And by very experienced bolters (several who've done 100+ bolts each).

I agree with Brad.  I never had a spinner until last year and now it happens way too frequently.

It is not about bad rock.  The bolt just won't advance in the cone.  I can unscrew the bolt back out which would not be the case if the rock was bad.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

JC,

the 5-piece plated steel bolts that I have do have slots on the end of the cone like the SS models.

[JC w KC redux]

JC,

the 5-piece plated steel bolts that I have do have slots on the end of the cone like the SS models.

Thanks Bruce. Powers did a design change and the new bolts don't look like they used to. I should have ordered a few from Fixe just to check them out. The expansion sleeve looks much shorter than the old design and the blue cap looks completely different. Fixe wasn't  selling the Powers plated steel bolts for a while and then they introduced this new design. In the interim they started selling the Cobra bolts - which they still have on their site.
Take a look at Fixe's site and you'll see all what I'm talking about.