Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[JC w KC redux]

Rupert K evidently liked to place bolts in cobbles/lodestones.
I've seen this on several of his other routes.

Nice job guys!

btw - love the stacked washers!

[squiddo]

Awesome

[Brad Young]

Clint finished rebolting the first pitch....

Bruce, regarding my comment up-thread, what part of that pitch had Adam and I not finished (I honestly can't recall - but maybe a bolt or two near the end of the pitch were still un-replaced?)?

And great work, thanks. This is going on my list for next October (when it is both open and not freezing cold).

[JC w KC redux]

JC, thanks for all the work. I enjoyed the climbing on stretch 7, but I knew it was a no-fall route. I never repeated it. I think I'll go back now.

Sure thing Bob. We could go back together and take turns leading it.
We didn't have time to climb it.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Bruce, regarding my comment up-thread, what part of that pitch had Adam and I not finished (I honestly can't recall - but maybe a bolt or two near the end of the pitch were still un-replaced?)?

And great work, thanks. This is going on my list for next October (when it is both open and not freezing cold).

Brad,

according to Clint, there are eight protection bolts on the first pitch.  He says that the first two bolts were already replaced, probably by you and Adam.  He replaced four bolts and pulled one that was a duplicate and Denis Erik had previously replaced the last bolt.  He also said that you and Adam replaced the two bolts at the anchor and used Fixe double ring hangers.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Rupert K evidently liked to place bolts in cobbles/lodestones.
I've seen this on several of his other routes.

Nice job guys!

btw - love the stacked washers!

JC, you got that right!  Almost all of the bolts in the aid ladder on the second pitch are in lodestone.  And, since it was an aid ladder(at the time) he used primarily 1/4" red heads.

[F4?]

Nice job. Such a sweet route...so steep.


I remember that belay and the star dryvin was nasty, nasty.

The 1st pitch is no give-away, the 5.9 crux was hard...right at the belay. So cruel.
Jake make it look easy.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

I remember that belay and the star dryvin was nasty, nasty.

The 1st pitch is no give-away, the 5.9 crux was hard...right at the belay. So cruel.
Jake make it look easy.

F4,

I tried to pull out the nail on that Star Dryvin with my crowbar and the nail just broke off.  Luckily, a few years ago, Greg Barnes at the ASCA gave me a one-of-a-kind 3/8" tuning fork and it lifted the Star Dryvin right out.  When I went to deepen the hole to put in the new bolt it turns out the hole was much smaller than 3/8"(it was very difficult to drill it out).  My guess is that is why the Star Dryvin nail didn't go in all the way.

BTW, that unnecessary/undocumented belay is now gone.  There is a single 3/8" SS bolt there.  If you really needed to stop there, right after the crux, it would be easy to clip that bolt and the new 3/8" SS a few feet above it.  And it is kind of funny because there is a big knob to stand on at the next bolt above that belay.  It would have made much more sense to double up the bolt at that next location.

[mungeclimber]

F4,

I tried to pull out the nail on that Star Dryvin with my crowbar and the nail just broke off.  Luckily, a few years ago, Greg Barnes at the ASCA gave me a one-of-a-kind 3/8" tuning fork and it lifted the Star Dryvin right out.  When I went to deepen the hole to put in the new bolt it turns out the hole was much smaller than 3/8"(it was very difficult to drill it out).  My guess is that is why the Star Dryvin nail didn't go in all the way.

BTW, that unnecessary/undocumented belay is now gone.  There is a single 3/8" SS bolt there.  If you really needed to stop there, right after the crux, it would be easy to clip that bolt and the new 3/8" SS a few feet above it.  And it is kind of funny because there is a big knob to stand on at the next bolt above that belay.  It would have made much more sense to double up the bolt at that next location.

Think it was a bail station?

[clink]

 Thanks guys for the work. Is Reincarnation in your sights?

[JC w KC redux]

It is kind of funny because there is a big knob to stand on at the next bolt above that belay.  It would have made much more sense to double up the bolt at that next location.

Beyer must have snuck in on the route!

[waldo]

Sure thing Bob. We could go back together and take turns leading it.
We didn't have time to climb it.

That's a deal.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Think it was a bail station?

Munge,

Clint's theory is that it was an end of the day, we don't want to put in anymore bolts today situation.  The chain is so thin as are the smash links so it had to have been a temporary idea....or these guys really wanted to tempt fate!

[clink]

 Where's Waldo second (2") bolt was replaced with a SS 3 3/4 double wedge. The new bolt is in better rock 3" higher and 12" to the left of the previous placement. The 2" rawl would not loosen and was removed fully engaged, by turning and prying/pressure, which reamed the hole slowly allowing extraction.

 Any feedback from Barnes on the cone freezing issues?

[JC w KC redux]

clink,
I perused the Powers website and the slits in the cone evidently allow compression so continued tightening of the bolt locks the cone to the bolt - preventing it from loosening in vibration situations. The bolts are designed to resist vibration - which in my opinion is not necessarily needed for climbing applications - although we are in earthquake country!
I think they are designed for applications like mounting motorized equipment - ac units, compressors, etc. 

Spinners are likely a result of this feature.
The nose cone locks and then the soft rock along the sides of the hole fails allowing the bolt to spin.

How much torque/force did you use to extract the bolt?
What size crowbar?
I would say turning it once locked reams out the hole enough to allow prying it out and repeating the process of turning then prying allows eventual extraction. 

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Clint and I finally finished up rebolting Resurrection Wall.  We replaced 29 bolts and removed a few other extraneous ones.  The total count was four bolts on Pitch 1; fifteen bolts on Pitch 2 including the anchor which we added SS quick links and rappel rings; five bolts on Pitch 3 including the anchor which we added SS quick links and rappel rings; and five bolts on Pitch 4.

We added two bolts with SS quick links and rappel rings on top of the rock for a rappel descent.  The bolts are located about 50 feet northwest of the two bolts added by Brad and Adam when they were up there a few years ago.  The bolts are right at the lip of the top of the wall and it is a bit sketchy getting down to them.  It is probably best to belay from a 5" oak about 80 feet above the bolts.  You can rap about 190' directly down to the top of Pitch 2 and then rap about 185' to the ground from there with double 60m ropes.

You might be able to get down with a single 70m by rapping about 110' to the top of pitch 3 then rapping about 75' to the top of pitch 2 then rapping about 100' to the top of pitch 1 and then 110' to the ground.  We didn't try this so all distances and feasibility is just a guess.

Here are some photos of the bolts.





Here is an example of why they call these bolts "Red Heads."  Note the red color of the cone which goes into the bolt.

[mynameismud]

Thank you!

[Brad Young]

Thank you!

Yes! (And how many times can we thank you again and again for all the huge work you do - apply this comment to J.C. and Nelkins too).

[Gavin]

Holy cow, nice work to Bruce and Clint! Amazing effort!

[JC w KC redux]

Holy frijole guys - that is some piece of work. Thanks for the pictures too - those are cool.