Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[Brad Young]

Here's the photo I told John about. When I was at the rappel point in this photo last summer I added 3/8" chain to the "backup" bolt so that instead of rapping from one length of 5/16" chain, the rap was from two separate sections of chain, one extending to/from each bolt.

[JC w KC redux]

that's a std Fixe stainless setup. By no means is it substandard. Even better is to hit it w black and red paint.

thanks for the clarification re std.
red and black?- who are you? Dudley DoRight?

yes munge - it is turned around b/c you have to be hanging on the rappel to take it from the right perspective - i suppose i could have rotated the pic.
my main concern was no equalization and a minor concern about the white vs camo paint.

thanks Brad.

[mungeclimber]

thanks for the clarification re std.
red and black?- who are you? Dudley DoRight?

yes munge - it is turned around b/c you have to be hanging on the rappel to take it from the right perspective - i suppose i could have rotated the pic.
my main concern was no equalization and a minor concern about the white vs camo paint.

thanks Brad.

Copy that Brad. Probably non-climber stole the chain.   
I think Fixe rings are rated to 24kn or something ridiculous. But admittedly in a high traffic area, that could wear thru and then you are back to a single point of failure.

JC, gotcha. By no equalization, I suspect you mean a single point of failure because it looks like if the ring were weighted the tension probably would be equally distributed between both bolts. All just guesswork since I don't know where those anchors are.

White paint at pinns only works if the bolts are seated in bat or bird guano. hah Seriously though, the red and black, if mottled correctly with some brown spray paint really does make for a nice cheap camo option for pinns. A lot of us do camo there because routes are fairly close to trails.

[JC w KC redux]

JC, gotcha. By no equalization, I suspect you mean a single point of failure because it looks like if the ring were weighted the tension probably would be equally distributed between both bolts. All just guesswork since I don't know where those anchors are.

White paint at pinns only works if the bolts are seated in bat or bird guano. hah Seriously though, the red and black, if mottled correctly with some brown spray paint really does make for a nice cheap camo option for pinns. A lot of us do camo there because routes are fairly close to trails.

the way it is set when you rap off - all your weight goes on the hanger with the ring and if that were to pop, the other bolt would presumably hold. if you go back and check my original post i said it's at the top of Dumbo on Elephant Rock which is a really short 5.8 - probably 20 feet to the top. i just found it strange that a climb so recently established(2000) wasn't done right - but on the other hand the first ascentionists probably thought it was overkill to set up a two chain equalized anchor for such a short rappel. two short chains would be fine - or two rings with screw links. for that matter you could just have the bolts and downclimb just around the corner from there. no big deal.
i hadn't heard of the red/black mottled thing before - just crackin' wise...

[Uncle Stinky]

That was Connar's first rappel.  Unless something really goes wrong he will be Valedictorian at Lodi High this year.  He is on the East coast this week looking at schools.

[waldo]

I used to buy Stubai carabiners for old Pinnacles hangers.  The Stubais weren't reassuring, but they were better than nothing. Likewise, Bonattis.  Black Diamond has the narrowest gate 'biners I know of now.  Don't leave home without one. 

[mungeclimber]

That was Connar's first rappel.  Unless something really goes wrong he will be Valedictorian at Lodi High this year.  He is on the East coast this week looking at schools.

where does the time go?

[JC w KC redux]

anchor at Big Marmot - 1 "good" bolt, 1 bad bolt w spoon hanger + 1 inch webbing in a magic x through both bolts + a backup sling on the "good" bolt and 2 aluminum rap rings on the sling array, no chains or quicklinks(screwlinks)
we added a new sling on the good bolt backup leg.

here's the bad bolt - looks like 3/16" hardware store crap with a square nut - threads barely show through the nut

[mungeclimber]

The second, of the two, bolts on "No Smiles" on Smiling Simian West Face has been replaced with a 3.75" stainless steel double wedge bolt and stainless steel hanger.  

Normally I wouldn't place a wedge, but this is a double wedge, so there are two contact points, much like the Powers, and the rock quality was pretty good. In addition, it was the only long SS I had.  So I chose long and SS over more potential contact with a carbon steel bolt and carbon steel hanger.

I didn't have the juice to hang in my harness for another bolt, but the first one looks like the hanger is one of the thin SMC style.

The old bolt was a compression bolt in pretty good shape. It took me an hour or so with just tuning forks to get it out.


The new bolt

[JC w KC redux]

I appreciate your hard work to help repair any routes - even if I'm not up to doing them yet. I guess KC and I should have helped you today since we didn't get to do any climbing. I thought about it on my way up the Juniper Canyon Trail.

[F4?]

Munge, that bolt looked good. Maybe re use it on the pass this summer...

JohnMC was using washers to get his out, but eneded up just snapping them off.

[Brad Young]

Clint and Bruce rebolted route #249 "Big Marmot Rock - Regular Route" yesterday. Instead of two old bolts with hangers and three hangerless studs, this is what they left (from Clint's email):

"...the Regular route in its new status with 4 good bolts (first is an old 3/8", rest are new 3/8" stainless)."

[kylequeener]

On 1/16/13 Marty Foltz and I replaced one anchor bolt and equalized the chains on the top of the first pitch of Son of Dawn Wall. While all the bolts could use replacement, I was only certain of getting the one out and being able to reuse the same hole. I was lacking proper removal tools for the others. The bolt I did replace popped out easily with a couple swings of the hammer.

New hardware is a 3/8" x 3 1/2" Stainless 5 Piece.
This is the first time I've replaced anything at Pinns.

Super sketchy



Edit: Image won't show up. www.flickr.com/photos/queener/8390505290/

[Brad Young]

Thanks for the help, kyqueener.

[JC w KC redux]

Clint and Bruce rebolted route #249 "Big Marmot Rock - Regular Route" yesterday. Instead of two old bolts with hangers and three hangerless studs, this is what they left (from Clint's email):

"...the Regular route in its new status with 4 good bolts (first is an old 3/8", rest are new 3/8" stainless)."

clarification please? the guide book says it has 5 bolts - does 4 good bolts not count/include the first old 3/8"?

[mungeclimber]

That anchor is the not the full pitch anchor. It's the sub anchor. Went in without a guidebook to A1 something just to climb one day and ended up at the same location.  Rapped off that sketch junk. Thx for the work!

[JC w KC redux]

On 1/16/13 Marty Foltz and I replaced one anchor bolt and equalized the chains on the top of the first pitch of Son of Dawn Wall.

Ironic you should post just now - I was just perusing some old threads and wondered what happened to you.

[Brad Young]

clarification please? the guide book says it has 5 bolts - does 4 good bolts not count/include the first old 3/8"?

They left the first, 3/8" inch bolt and replaced three others with new bolts. They left one unreplaced.

[kylequeener]

Does anyone know what type of bolt in on the left side of the anchor? Looks home made. I had no idea how to remove it, other than extreme force.

[mungeclimber]

KyQ's image