Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[mynameismud]

Be the drill, Danny. Be the drill. 

this is quotable.

[JC w KC redux]

Noal and I were back at The Frog yesterday.
We replaced the standard rappel anchor and the midway belay anchor on Pinch Gripped.
I reused the chains on the standard rappel - still in fine shape. I could tell Brad supplied/installed them
I also discovered that one of the routes reported as being rebolted was not.
I have removed that route from the master list (Lonesome Dove).
I also updated the master list with some details after inspecting the three bolt belay anchor at the top of the formation. Two of those bolts have ring anchors - so it is possible to rappel down to the Ski Jump midway anchor and then rappel from there to the ground with a 60m rope. I discovered that the Ski Jump midway anchor had doubled, sub-standard screw links on both bolts, so I replaced those with new 3/8 screwlinks and single chain links.
We'll get back out there soon and take care of Lonesome Dove and hopefully some of the other old stuff that presented us with logistical challenges yesterday. Noal was the hero of the day yesterday - climbing the route with his pack loaded with all the rebolting gear - and graciously allowing me to lead Lonesome Dove. From the leaver biner, it looked like someone probably climbed up there, saw the rusty old bolts and bailed. On a scarier note, there was also a leaver biner on one of the Pinch Gripped midway anchor bolts - a time bomb. KC claimed that leaver biner a couple weeks ago when we climbed Ski Jump. The bolt was a 1/4" drop-in anchor. The bolt head was 7/16" and it wasn't responding to the crescent wrench, so I GENTLY tapped the tab hanger 1/2 a turn counterclockwise and the bolt snapped. The 1/4" bolt was 1/2" long and the drop-in sleeve was protruding from the hole 1/4".
Rebolting...it's not just a job...it's an adventure.


The time bomb…note the shadow at the top of the tab hanger created by protrusion of the drop-in sleeve…
Notice the wedge bolt placed right at the edge of a lodestone. The stud was so crooked that the Leeper hanger wouldn’t come off without significant coaxing after the nut was removed.

[JC w KC redux]

Julius and I replaced a few bolts yesterday
We did Lonesome Dove first.
Working on this climb was a PITA since the top anchor is nowhere near being in line with the climb – not to mention the route meanders badly. The only solution was to climb up, rely on the old bolt and drill from stance. After placing each new bolt, the old bolt (wedge bolt) could be removed and the hole patched. The first two bolts are now replaced. The third bolt is off route and should not be used. Removing it would be difficult and dangerous – so I did not touch it - it is still a shiny stainless hanger on an old rusty wedge bolt. The 4th bolt (really the 3rd) had been replaced. Past that, the route merges with Ski Jump and those bolts have already been replaced.
The hanger on the old first was interesting. It is a stainless unknown brand hanger stamped Italy.

We replaced the two anchor bolts on top of South Side Shuffle. Star dryvins were cleanly removed, so we were able to keep them in the original locations.
After replacing these bolts, we went down a bit and replaced some old, rusty, substandard size screwlinks on the Big Sky top anchor.

The master list is updated and as always - much work remains to be done...

[JC w KC redux]

Noal and I completed the rebolt of Blowing Chunks yesterday. We did Atlas Shrugs last weekend. The master list is updated.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

John, Noal, et. al.

Nice job with all the rebolting!  Keep it up and I can retire!

ps - that hanger that says "Italy" on it is probably made by Kong.  They did a lot of stuff in aluminum.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Clint and I started our rebolting project on Resurrection Wall.  We began by freeing The Great Spectacular just to get the ropes up there(probably mid-range 10 if you know how to use your feet)-:) -:) -:)

Seriously, we have two 60m ropes fixed.  One from the top of the rock down to the top of Pitch 2 of Resurrection Wall and another 60m rope from the top of Pitch 2 down to the ground.

Today, working top down, we replaced the 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th bolts on pitch 4.  We replaced the bolts at the anchor at the top of Pitch 3 and added SS quick links and rings.  We replaced the 1st and 2nd bolts of Pitch 3.  We also replaced the bolts at the anchor of Pitch 2 and added SS quick links and rings.  The plan is to go back up there ASAP and finish the several remaining bolts on Pitch 3 and Pitch 4 and then work on the ladder on Pitch 2.

BTW, there are a few 3/8" Star Dryvins and one 1/4" Star Dryvin (last bolt on the entire climb).  The majority of the bolts are 1/4" and 3/8" "red head"  bolts.  This design of this bolt has a small pin in the back of the bolt.  As you pound the bolt into the hole the pin gets pushed in and, hopefully, expands the back end of the bolt. Yuch!  All the 3/8" Red Heads we have removed so far were only in 1"!

I will toss some photos up on the site when my body quiets down a bit.

[Brad Young]

Nice work. My excuses for not climbing that thing are getting thin.

I hope Adam sees this.

And wow, freeing The Great Spectacular is impressive indeed. Did you use a rope, or just solo it?

[mungeclimber]

Clint and I started our rebolting project on Resurrection Wall.  We began by freeing The Great Spectacular just to get the ropes up there(probably mid-range 10 if you know how to use your feet)-:) -:) -:)

Seriously, we have two 60m ropes fixed.  One from the top of the rock down to the top of Pitch 2 of Resurrection Wall and another 60m rope from the top of Pitch 2 down to the ground.

Today, working top down, we replaced the 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th bolts on pitch 4.  We replaced the bolts at the anchor at the top of Pitch 3 and added SS quick links and rings.  We replaced the 1st and 2nd bolts of Pitch 3.  We also replaced the bolts at the anchor of Pitch 2 and added SS quick links and rings.  The plan is to go back up there ASAP and finish the several remaining bolts on Pitch 3 and Pitch 4 and then work on the ladder on Pitch 2.

BTW, there are a few 3/8" Star Dryvins and one 1/4" Star Dryvin (last bolt on the entire climb).  The majority of the bolts are 1/4" and 3/8" "red head"  bolts.  This design of this bolt has a small pin in the back of the bolt.  As you pound the bolt into the hole the pin gets pushed in and, hopefully, expands the back end of the bolt. Yuch!  All the 3/8" Red Heads we have removed so far were only in 1"!

I will toss some photos up on the site when my body quiets down a bit.

Wow!  Sweet job freeing the Great Spectacular!

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Here is a photo of a few of the bolts.  3/8" red heads on the bottom(note the pin in the leftmost bolt).  A couple of 1/4" red heads on the top left and a 1/4" Star Dryvin on the top right.

[mynameismud]

Those bolts inspire ( to not fall ).  Real nice work and thank you very much.

[Brad Young]

Those bolts inspire ( to not fall ).  Real nice work and thank you very much.

Amen, and amen.

I guess there was some strength in numbers, huh?

Bruce, Adam and I re-bolted most or all of the old, original bolts on the first pitch with long stainless 3/8" Rawl-type bolts about four or five years ago (including the first pitch anchor). And about 10 or 12 years ago Dennis (I think it was him) replaced the second-to-last bolt on that pitch (but with a 3/8" carbon steel bolt).

I'll be curious how all that looks now, when you get down to it.

[JC w KC redux]

Those bolts inspire ( to not fall ).  Real nice work and thank you very much.

Most of the bolts from Blowing Chunks were 1/4 inch button heads 


I started work on Stretch Seven today.

[mungeclimber]

I wonder if I could find any more routes under 5.10 with quarter inchers to clip at this point?


YOWZER!

[Brad Young]

I wonder if I could find any more routes under 5.10 with quarter inchers to clip at this point?


YOWZER!

What you nut - you want to clip bolts like that? I'm kinda glad that I led Blowing Chunks without seeing that photo first. Yikes  and yowser!

[Brad Young]

I started work on Stretch Seven today.

I have a faint memory of both Clint and I being totally sketched about the bolts on Stretch Seven. I went ahead and led it so I could tick it off the list. Are they as bad as they appeared (or will you keep us in suspense...)?

And again, it's the same words we use every time, but huge thanks for all the work you bolt replacers put in.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Bruce,

Adam and I re-bolted most or all of the old, original bolts on the first pitch with long stainless 3/8" Rawl-type bolts about four or five years ago (including the first pitch anchor). And about 10 or 12 years ago Dennis (I think it was him) replaced the second-to-last bolt on that pitch (but with a 3/8" carbon steel bolt).

I'll be curious how all that looks now, when you get down to it.

Brad,

thanks to you and Adam.  The first pitch, with the way it wanders, is a difficult rebolting job!

Bruce

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

John,

nice work on Blowing Chunks and Stretch Seven!

Bruce

[JC w KC redux]

I have a faint memory of both Clint and I being totally sketched about the bolts on Stretch Seven. I went ahead and led it so I could tick it off the list. Are they as bad as they appeared (or will you keep us in suspense...)?

And again, it's the same words we use every time, but huge thanks for all the work you bolt replacers put in.

I only got the anchor done yesterday and then rapped down to see where the bolts are. It has 6 star dryvins and one stud bolt. Someone added an anchor bolt on the summit in bad rock - a carbon steel wedge with a stainless Metolius hanger. All the rock on the summit was dull sounding, hollow or crumbly. I only noticed that one of the star dryvin lead bolts had a sleeve protruding. I didn't look at them all really closely since I was just trying to spot locations and determine bolt type for the next trip out. It will take me another trip or two to get the lead bolts replaced.
I was wearing the appropriate shirt...

[JC w KC redux]

I wonder if I could find any more routes under 5.10 with quarter inchers to clip at this point?
YOWZER!

That answer would be yes.

[Brad Young]

I had a weird one happen today (up here though, not at Pinns). Halfway through the first bolt on a new route the bit just broke in half:







We didn't put any unusual pressure on the bit at all. As a wild guess, this bit's probably been used for 35 to 50 bolts. "Boom," just like that it broke. I'm glad I always carry an extra bit.

On the good side, we got a new route done at Missing Man Formation. Luc's widow, Cassy, drilled her first bolt (on lead, with the new bit), and then got the first lead of the route. We called it "Lady GAZA." Luc's Air Force call name was GAZA, and so, naturally Cassy came to be called lady GAZA by some of the other squadron members:




Oh my God, we just had two trick-or-treaters come to our door! That's the first time we've had any at all in like 15 years!





Great day. And now tomorrow it's supposed to snow down to 5,000 feet (a few hundred feet above us).