Author Topic: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread (Read 5490408 times)

Brad Young · « **Reply #520 on:** April 16, 2015, 04:46:29 PM »

Quote from: F4? on April 16, 2015, 04:25:39 PM

Just install a few aid bolts and let someone try to free it....sans splinters (that tree sucked ass).

Actually, I thought the sap was the worst part of that tree. I hate tree sap all over me.

mynameismud · « **Reply #521 on:** April 16, 2015, 05:23:27 PM »

our favorite Ubermench climber will free it.

clink · « **Reply #522 on:** April 16, 2015, 07:29:19 PM »

Quote

our favorite Ubermench climber will free it.

Free or free-solo? What about pro?

mungeclimber · « **Reply #523 on:** April 16, 2015, 08:01:01 PM »

Glad u agree with me.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #524 on:** April 16, 2015, 09:17:04 PM »

Quote from: Brad Young on April 16, 2015, 04:46:29 PM

Actually, I thought the sap was the worst part of that tree. I hate tree sap all over me.

I do not like this rotten rock.
I do not like dirt in my sock.
I do not like to ski on scree.
I much prefer stability

Bruce Hildenbrand · « **Reply #525 on:** April 20, 2015, 04:10:08 PM »

I had a long talk with Glen about what to do about the start of the first pitch. He remembered the climb like it was yesterday. Glen agreed that it would most likely take a short bolt ladder to open up the first pitch. His request to me was that the bolts be reasonably far apart so that good aid climbing skills were required to clip the bolts. That's a bit subjective, but you all get the idea. I agreed to oversee the project, hopefully we can arrange something for this fall.

BTW, Glen has some great stories about climbing in the Valley in the Golden Era. Always a pleasure to catch up!

Brad Young · « **Reply #526 on:** April 23, 2015, 08:30:30 PM »

Got to simulate the Glen Denny reach - he put 'em far apart enough that I have to stretch to make the clip (and that's just trying to clip, not drilling the damn bolt in the first place).

Love his response.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #527 on:** April 23, 2015, 08:40:11 PM »

Tee'ing off clips? Sik!!

clink · « **Reply #528 on:** April 24, 2015, 05:50:00 AM »

Quote

Got to simulate the Glen Denny reach - he put 'em far apart enough that I have to stretch to make the clip (and that's just trying to clip, not drilling the damn bolt in the first place).

How tall is Mr. Denny?

Quote

Glen Denny is a tall quiet man. He expresses much in few words.

... and few bolts.

I googled Mr. Kor also,

Quote

6' 3" (1.90 m)
Layton Kor, Height

clink · « **Reply #529 on:** April 24, 2015, 06:03:37 AM »

Idea; Brad give Munge a piggyback, drill, then alternate. Brad, bring an extra pair of shorts for Munge to wear. Document on video for the archives.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #530 on:** April 24, 2015, 06:45:21 AM »

Shoulder stands are legit

waldo · « **Reply #531 on:** April 24, 2015, 05:59:38 PM »

Quote from: mungeclimber on April 24, 2015, 06:45:21 AM

Shoulder stands are legit

Only if the top climber's wearing crampons.

mynameismud · « **Reply #532 on:** April 24, 2015, 06:14:23 PM »

or she is wearing a skirt.

clink · « **Reply #533 on:** April 24, 2015, 06:34:10 PM »

Pray tell. Is this when a FA becomes a religious experience?

mynameismud · « **Reply #534 on:** April 24, 2015, 07:03:08 PM »

are you experienced?

clink · « **Reply #535 on:** April 24, 2015, 07:33:25 PM »

I do have opinions on what God made and what man has made, but they don't belong on this thread or for that matter the forum. Common sense says shut up.

Replaced about 8 bolts so far and my respect for the enormous work of Clint, Bruce and now JC is growing as is my interest in the history of individual routes. My gifts from the family were the Roper and Richards' guides.

F4? · « **Reply #536 on:** May 03, 2015, 06:02:04 AM »

Quote

Pray tell. Is this when a FA becomes a religious experience?

Al my routes are ****.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #537 on:** May 19, 2015, 09:06:00 AM »

Quote from: mynameismud on May 19, 2015, 08:55:59 AM

Hi, JC
Can you do glue in bolts? I have two requests, the first bolt one Tailspin/Foreplay and the fourth bolt on Future Shock ( this one wiggles ). I do not lead this hard anymore but those two bolts are a bit shaky and get a bit of traffic.
thanks,
Mud

Sorry - I haven't done/been trained on any glue-ins and don't have the materials either.

I'm going to refer this to Kyle - I bet he has the skills and the desire to refurbish the really hard climbs.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #538 on:** May 19, 2015, 09:24:26 AM »

Quote from: bhilden on April 15, 2015, 08:24:37 PM

Brad,
we only used the Old Original for the approach. Over the years we have been replacing the bolts that needed it(mostly on the rappels). All are 3/8" though some are clearly better than others. The 2nd bolt on the 1st pitch is pretty rusty, but it is completely unnecessary and kind of puts the rope in a bad location for the second. It was probably added after the FA. The last bolt on the 3rd pitch is rusty as well, but it is a 3/8" and the climbing there is really, really easy. It was probably added long after the FA.

The bolt at the start of the route is about one foot off the ground. It looks like it was placed as a belay anchor.

Bruce

There is an old hangerless 1/4" stud sticking out near the end of pitch 3 - probably used as a belay bolt back in the day.

We did OO a couple weekends ago and saw the belay anchor bolt Bruce mentions at the start. It is non stainless and I can't recall ever seeing it before. I can't imagine missing it since it sticks out like a sore thumb just to the right of where p1 starts. I also don't understand why someone took the time and effort to install this bolt since it is surrounded by a huge area of flat ground - a small meadow of sorts - and some nearby trees. The last time I was up there was June 2014 so that bolt must have been placed since then.

kylequeener · « **Reply #539 on:** May 19, 2015, 11:12:38 AM »

Do any of you have any experience with the FIXE Triplex bolts? I've been using the standard 5 piece but the appeal of the Triplex is super simple removal when its time to replace it. Also wondering how different it is to drill a 12mm (almost 1/2") over a 3/8". Obviously with my Bosch it doesn't matter but I'm thinking of using these for some Pinnacles projects. Thoughts?

-Kyle

News:

Author Topic: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread (Read 5490408 times)