Author Topic: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread (Read 5490374 times)

squiddo · « **Reply #420 on:** February 16, 2015, 09:17:26 AM »

Quote from: mynameismud on February 16, 2015, 09:11:23 AM

He is probably the 4th or 5th person to lead that 10a. Funny I do not remember that one being runout. I was thinking it was kind of short. The name was supposed

of course you don't remember, because to you it was a sport climb

I walked underneath a few of those and shook my head. Nice area

Gavin · « **Reply #421 on:** February 16, 2015, 10:36:45 AM »

Yeah, good times at Knuckle Ridge yesterday. Agony of Defeat is definitely a bold line... I'm glad I was able to onsight it. I would call it a bit runout at least to the first bolt, and very committing. A few others top-roped the line and we all felt it was harder than 5.10a, at least 5.10b. (That includes kyqueener, nelkins, and Brad.)

mynameismud · « **Reply #422 on:** February 16, 2015, 03:47:04 PM »

We did not see a way to get a bolt in before we did, how it was we took a few tumbles down the hill trying to get that first bolt in. Up higher there was a hollow section then this whole sheet I was standing on slid off, the route cleaned up better after that though.

Maybe it was just a high gravity day for you guys

clink · « **Reply #423 on:** February 16, 2015, 05:12:18 PM »

Hollow section in your head.

mynameismud · « **Reply #424 on:** February 16, 2015, 07:08:07 PM »

That slid loose a long time ago as well but is still rattling around in there.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #425 on:** February 16, 2015, 08:43:50 PM »

Nice job Gavin! Heady space on a sandbag. Solid work!

NOAL · « **Reply #426 on:** February 16, 2015, 08:51:06 PM »

Quote

how it was we took a few tumbles down the hill trying to get that first bolt in.

Yikes!

I always read too much into route names. When I first looked at the name Agony of Defeat the imagery of the ski jumper eating it in the intro to ABC wide world of sports popped into my head. After looking at the start ,the distance to the first bolt, and the fall down the hill.....

Brad Young · « **Reply #427 on:** February 16, 2015, 09:24:28 PM »

Notice that Dennis hasn't acknowledged that the route is at least 5.10b. In fact he still called it 5.10a.

It's normal for him though, he always does that. Probably a direct result of too many tumbles down the hill

mynameismud · « **Reply #428 on:** February 16, 2015, 09:53:44 PM »

I have never hit my head ( that I remember anyway ).

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #429 on:** February 17, 2015, 08:15:25 AM »

Quote from: nelkins on February 16, 2015, 08:51:06 PM

Yikes!
I always read too much into route names. When I first looked at the name Agony of Defeat the imagery of the ski jumper eating it in the intro to ABC wide world of sports popped into my head. After looking at the start ,the distance to the first bolt, and the fall down the hill.....

Nice imagery. RTNW

Uncle Stinky · « **Reply #430 on:** February 17, 2015, 08:38:05 AM »

Who in our generation can forget that ski jumper. Stuck in my brain.

Bruce Hildenbrand · « **Reply #431 on:** February 17, 2015, 10:12:14 PM »

Quote from: Brad Young on February 16, 2015, 06:58:14 AM

Yesterday J.C. finished replacing the last bolt on The Outcast (the whole formation, not just one route). In other words, between J.C. and Clink, every bolt on every route on the formation (ten or a dozen bolts?) are now bright, long stainless, 3/8 inch A.S.C.A. bolts. All this in only the last five weeks.

Nice work guys! Thanks!

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #432 on:** February 17, 2015, 10:21:08 PM »

Quote from: bhilden on February 17, 2015, 10:12:14 PM

Nice work guys! Thanks!

No problem Bruce. I have my eye on a lot of other stuff out there that needs attention.
Should be able to deploy some more shiny replacements soon.

Bruce Hildenbrand · « **Reply #433 on:** February 18, 2015, 10:39:58 AM »

Last week Clint and I were doing some random rebolting/cleanup. We replaced the 1/4" Rawl on the 4th class route on Tiburcio's. We replaced a Leeper on top of the formation with a Petzl. We also replaced some Leeper hangers with SS Petzls on the top of the Monolith where the Northest Corner comes up. Lastly, Clint found an old bolt about 20 feet right and 5 feet higher than the 2nd bolt on the Direct Route on the Monolith. It is a 1/2" 'Drop-in" (same bolts we found on Feather Canyon). We replaced the chromoly SMC hanger with a SS SMC hanger.

Bruce Hildenbrand · « **Reply #434 on:** February 18, 2015, 10:49:35 AM »

Clint and I were rebolting on the Sew What Needles yesterday. The rock on these needles, as described accurately in the guidebook, is totally suspect. We replaced the Leeper hanger on the first bolt of the Needle's Edge on the North Needle with a SS Petzl. We didn't replace the bolt for two reasons. First off, the rock all around that area is bad. Secondly, the bolt is low enough on route that it only protects the one traverse move (basically a top rope).

We replaced the bolt on Needle's Eye which can(and should) be clipped by those also climbing the 5.7 face route. We replace the two belay bolts at the optional belay. We also replaced one of the top anchor bolts(the other was a new-looking plated 5-piece Powers). There were chains on top for rappel. Bolts on this formation were either 3/8" Star Dryvins or 3/8" Rawl Split Shafts.

On the Middle Needle we replaced the lone 1/4" bolt with two 3/8" SS Powers and added quick links and chin links for rappel.

Someone has rebolted the top anchor on the South Needle. They also added quick links and chains for rappel.

mynameismud · « **Reply #435 on:** February 18, 2015, 11:39:49 AM »

There is some good rock there if you look real hard.

Brad Young · « **Reply #436 on:** February 18, 2015, 01:33:38 PM »

Quote from: mynameismud on February 18, 2015, 11:39:49 AM

There is some good rock there if you look real hard.

Real hard. Not a good formation.

Dennis and I added a new bolt to that existing Sew What South summit anchor about 12 or 13 years ago. We felt that that one added bolt brought it up to an "adequate" condition. I later put the chains on those bolts. Does that sound like what you saw up there Bruce?

Bruce Hildenbrand · « **Reply #437 on:** February 18, 2015, 05:41:14 PM »

Quote from: Brad Young on February 18, 2015, 01:33:38 PM

Real hard. Not a good formation.

Dennis and I added a new bolt to that existing Sew What South summit anchor about 12 or 13 years ago. We felt that that one added bolt brought it up to an "adequate" condition. I later put the chains on those bolts. Does that sound like what you saw up there Bruce?

That would be the bolt. Also on the summit we removed an old Star Dryvin with a thin, small-hole Leeper hanger and we took the SMC plated, thin, chrome-moly hanger off the other bolt(a very rusted 3/8" Rawl Split shaft). We would have removed the Rawl but it was in a hole and my 3/8" tuning fork would have made a huge mess getting it out.

BTW, sometimes the 3/8" Rawl split shafts are pretty good and we just replace the old hanger, usually a Leeper or a thin, SMC, chrome-moly with a SS hanger. Unfortunately, the bolts on this formation had really munged threads on the end of the bolt so that was a very iffy proposition. In that case, we try to use the 3/8 tuning fork(which is starting to crack, undoubtedly from the major hits put on it by JC) while the nut and hanger are still on. If that fails we remove the nut which usually strips the threads of the nut and take the hanger.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #438 on:** February 18, 2015, 09:15:24 PM »

It sounds like you guys got everything except the hangerless bolt on Threadbare. I updated the master list.
After a conversation with Brad some months back I wrote in ink in my guidebook on Needles' Eye - "Stay Away"
Bummer about the Gonzo tuning fork!

Brad Young · « **Reply #439 on:** February 18, 2015, 09:24:22 PM »

Quote from: JC w KC redux on February 18, 2015, 09:15:24 PM

It sounds like you guys got everything except the hangerless bolt on Threadbare. I updated the master list.
After a conversation with Brad some months back I wrote in ink in my guidebook on Needles' Eye - "Stay Away"
Bummer about the Gonzo tuning fork!

Hey, Needles Eye is an absolute must do.

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Author Topic: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread (Read 5490374 times)