Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

A couple of more things from Kasperek's.  Clint and I found the remains of the summit register.  It was a glass jar with a felt tip marker(good call in the heat of the Pinnacles!) in pieces on the ground near the start of the route.  Unfortunately, we didn't find any of the pages.

We also found three cut slings in the gap between the pinnacle and the "ground."  Down in the crevice, away from sunlight, they were in pretty good shape, much better shape than the blue, 9/16" sling we found on top which you could rip apart with your bare hands.  Metal rappel hardware is the only way to go at the Pinnacles.

[JC w KC redux]

Bruce, Tol and I replaced the lead bolts and the anchor on Dos Equis and the anchor on Corona yesterday.
Kat and I replaced the anchor on Osiris today.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Here is a photo of the four protection bolts from Destiny/Dos Equiis.  The first ascent of the route was in 1980.  I am guessing that the bolts shown here were part of a rebolting job done 15-20 years ago(1995-2000).  I think what is worth noting in this photo is that these bolts have been in a water streak for 15-20 years.  The bolts are plated.  The hangers on the bolts were stainless steel.  Having mixed metals such as these raises the question of galvanic corrosion.

You can see from the photo that three of the four bolts have very little rust.  I think this is pretty good evidence that, at least in the Pinnacles, galvanic corrosion from mixed metals is potentially not an issue.

[JC w KC redux]

I have one of the other short pieces of sleeve and it looks identical to the two pictured.

Were those 3" bolts Bruce? I forgot to compare them to the new stainless we installed.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

So Clint and I went up to rebolt the Hatchet yesterday and we found all this stuff in the bushes right off the climber's trail around Ridge Rock.  Our first thought was that this was from Brad's 900th route celebration then we remembered that the party was up near Tuff Domejavascript :-);  The total tally was 43 glass bottle (1-liter versions for Munge and Mud), 46 aluminum cans, 3 tin cans, 13 plastic bottles and 23 oyster shells(!?!?! - no they don't make you climb harder!!!).



BTW, the Hatchet had already been rebolted using plated 5-piece Rawls/Powers, but it was a fun climb anyway.
Edit: changed "non-plated" to "plated"

[mungeclimber]

You can see from the photo that three of the four bolts have very little rust.  I think this is pretty good evidence that, at least in the Pinnacles, galvanic corrosion from mixed metals is potentially not an issue.

Good evidence would have the exact date of install. Potentially, yes. Should we use stainless anyways. Yes.

[mungeclimber]

So Clint and I went up to rebolt the Hatchet yesterday and we found all this stuff in the bushes right off the climber's trail around Ridge Rock.  Our first thought was that this was from Brad's 900th route celebration then we remembered that the party was up near Tuff Domejavascript :-);  The total tally was 43 glass bottle (1-liter versions for Munge and Mud), 46 aluminum cans, 3 tin cans, 13 plastic bottles and 23 oyster shells(!?!?! - no they don't make you climb harder!!!).



BTW, the Hatchet had already been rebolted using non-plated 5-piece Rawls/Powers, but it was a fun climb anyway.

Holey moley!

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

I have one of the other short pieces of sleeve and it looks identical to the two pictured.

Were those 3" bolts Bruce? I forgot to compare them to the new stainless we installed.

Yes.  Those bolts were 3".

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Good evidence would have the exact date of install. Potentially, yes. Should we use stainless anyways. Yes.

Agreed!

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

JC,

for your rebolting list, about a month ago, I replaced the 2nd protection bolt on the 3rd pitch of Machete Direct(old 3/8" Star Dryvin) with a 5-piece SS Powers/Rawl.

[mynameismud]

Are you sure they do not make you climb harder, wink wink nod nod.

[mynameismud]

Also, thank you for hauling all of that stuff out of there.

[JC w KC redux]

JC,
for your rebolting list, about a month ago, I replaced the 2nd protection bolt on the 3rd pitch of Machete Direct(old 3/8" Star Dryvin) with a 5-piece SS Powers/Rawl.

Got it. I updated the list on page 4 to include this, Ridge Rock and the Hatchet

BTW, the Hatchet had already been rebolted using non-plated 5-piece Rawls/Powers, but it was a fun climb anyway.

By non-plated on the Hatchet do you mean galvanized rather than zinc plated?
Now I am confused b/c you posted plated on the corrections thread?

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

JC,

sorry for the confusion!  I meant plated(AKA non-stainless).

[JC w KC redux]

JC,

sorry for the confusion!  I meant plated(AKA non-stainless).

Gotcha Bruce - thanks! - I figured your second post was correct but just wanted to clarify.

Btw - it looks like you guys hit the motherlode of all party spots at Pinns - thanks for taking the time and effort to clean up that mess!

[F4?]

Oysters? Really?
No BudLite Lime,whew.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

There were a couple of Bud Lite Lime cans in there.  We dusted for Munge's prints but there was no match!

[Brad Young]

Yesterday J.C. finished replacing the last bolt on The Outcast (the whole formation, not just one route). In other words, between J.C. and Clink, every bolt on every route on the formation (ten or a dozen bolts?) are now bright, long stainless, 3/8 inch A.S.C.A. bolts. All this in only the last five weeks.

All but one of the replacements were installed in the original holes. Some of the old bolts were extremely rusty, 1 1/4 inch long, quarter inch buttonheads (which tells me that when I led all of those climbs, i did it on illusory pro). The ones that weren't were garbage of other types. I'd ask him to post some photos here of these ancient, crappy "things."

That's a lot of work starting with a 45 minute approach carrying all the bolting gear and all the bolt removal (heavy) steel.

Thanks.

As a side note, after he replaced the last bolt yesterday, he did one of the best leads I've ever seen him do - he led my first first ascent flawlessly (Catatonic Stupor, which I put up with Vicki in 1991, before we were even married!). I'd forgoten how heads up this route is, with five bolts in 110 feet, a fair amount of loose rock, and some great exposure (yeah, five, you read that right - the guidebook says six, but it is in error regarding my own route    ). I really had no memory of how bold that damn thing was (the folly of youth or some such).

And talking about fine leads, while we were all there, Gavin did a strong lead of Mr. Mud's own route The Agony of Defeat (5.10a my ass). As is normal when someone does one of Dennis' routes on Knuckle Ridge, there were several rounds of "5.10a my ass," and "what the hell was he thinking running it out that far." You know, all the normal stuff about routes put up by a beyond the normal guy  

[clink]

beyond the normal guy

Nice.

[mynameismud]

He is probably the 4th or 5th person to lead that 10a.  Funny I do not remember that one being runout.  I was thinking it was kind of short.  The name was supposed to be Agony of DaFeet because I had a pair of shoes that were a bit to small.