Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[briham89]

Did you get to the Wet Kiss anchor? Just wanted to be sure so I can cross it off my list.

[JC w KC redux]

Did you get to the Wet Kiss anchor? Just wanted to be sure so I can cross it off my list.

You're a funny funny guy.

I was surprised that those anchor bolts took less than one turn each to tighten - I expected them to be much worse.  
All lead bolts are tight too.

Big Pucker checked except for the top bolt - easy climbing there in comparison - plus I missed it on the way down not knowing the climb or realizing that bolt is hidden up and right as you move down and past the feature/rounded ridge that separates climbs on that part of the wall. You have to go to one side or the other depending on which route you're trying to get to.
 
I checked Plague too, since I had to rap further right one last time to get to the first bolt on Wet Kiss. Every bolt I checked needed a partial turn to get nice and tight. One of the crux bolts on Big Pucker turned probably a full turn and a half to get it tight.

I did some other work too on Stupendous Man, Entrance and the rappel anchor above Swallow Crack. I'll put details on the Master List some time today.

[briham89]

Woohoo! Nice work

[mynameismud]

Can you fix the bad bolt on Future Shock?

[JC w KC redux]

Can you fix the bad bolt on Future Shock?

Which bolt and what is wrong with it?

That is Tom Davis' climb.

He would probably want to know about it and do the work himself.

I can contact him with the info if you give me the details.

[mynameismud]

I think it is the third bolt.  It is a bit loose.

[JC w KC redux]

I think it is the third bolt.  It is a bit loose.

Maybe F4 will go out and tighten it and paint the hanger pink 

[F4?]

I would tighten, but never paint a Davis hanger.

Mr Mud, deck yes I’d paint it!! Since he has gone silent on me.

Although I would might do it to get a laugh out of Tom were i still a regular there. The look on his deface when told...

[mungeclimber]

Pink hangers are retrobolts only.

[F4?]

Still the lol of puzzlement on Toms face....”what route? And they painted it what color??”

[JC w KC redux]

Added some updates at Flatiron to the Master List today.

[Brad Young]

Here's food for thought: have we reached a point at Pinnacles yet in which half or more of the existing climbing bolts are stainless steel? Or even a point at which half or more of the bolts there are "modern" (defined as Rawl/Powers 3/8 inch carbon steel or better)?

[clink]

I'm having thoughts about food.

[NOAL]

More important who has the most accurate list? 

[JC w KC redux]

More important who has the most accurate list?  

Clint and Bruce keep really good notes and Fletcher sent me his info a few years ago.
I compiled all that into the Master List but it only shows what is not already listed in the book.
I'd have to go back through both of those lists climb by climb and make a Master List of everything, since a lot of the listings in the book don't reflect whether the whole climb was done or just the anchor. Some of them are listed as FoP(anchor) but others don't list specifics (just FoP) and quite a few of those are also just the anchor. There's a lot of stuff in the High Peaks where the anchor got replaced but the lead bolts didn't. At my current rate I'll never finish - not even close.
Even if I made that list, it still would not account for things people have done over the years and not reported.
Every once in a while I discover something that fits that definition but only as I do climbs I haven't done.
It's endless...

[NOAL]

Maybe you could do it if you switched to shorties and worked late nights.
Are half the bolts stainless steel?  I think modern but not stainless.  Maybe 1/3 .

[clink]

Our rebolters are certainly both free range and organic, just like dinner that is almost ready!

[F4?]

I want to revolt with 1/4

Replace the 3/8 to lighter and smaller 1/4.

That way they are not as unsightly as the larger bolts.

What do you think Clink?

[clink]

1/4 inch SS glue-ins? Nope, as a builder, I want 3/4 inch SS replacements that will last 2 or 3 millennia.

[JC w KC redux]

I spent the entire day yesterday rebolting an old climb on North Finger (East Edge 5.7R). I climbed the Regular Route 5.5R to get up there  and was greeted shortly after arriving at the summit by the Pinnacles love birds (Condor 92 and 26). They landed on the South summit and sat there eyeballing me until 92 decided to try and come snuggle. I waved him off as he tried to land on the North summit (right next to me) and he landed about 15 feet below me (on the west side). I banged on the summit register(ammo box) with a wrench until he took off, followed immediately by 26. Now it was time to get to work. The wind was brisk yesterday and with a high temp of only 61 (much later in the day) I was chilly all day. There was very little sun.

I checked the North Summit anchor first and was disappointed to find that the newest replacement stainless anchor bolt is a spinner with a slightly loose hanger. The bolt would not tighten or loosen. The other bolt is a carbon steel 5 pc and it is nice and tight. The rappel is oriented to go down over the 5.7R and the rappel is 90 feet.
 
I dropped in to discover one of the worst anchors I have ever seen at Pinnacles. Both bolts were totally underdriven with severely floppy Leeper hangers, in lousy rock. I checked every nearby location for better rock with marginally mixed, undesirable results. I used my puller tool to remove the upper anchor bolt (after less than one full turn of the tool, it fell out). The lower anchor bolt is a star dryvin nail with no sleeve, sticking out about an inch. I did not have my crowbar to remove it. It can serve as a reminder and an example of how bad bolts can be.
This route is described as far back as the Roper guide (1960's).
Both Roper and Richards recommend a top belay and there is no mention of bolts.
Maybe Jim Beyer placed these bolts as one of his many booby traps (good name for the route).

Mid belay anchor bolts North Finger-East Edge 5.7R





This was one of those rebolting projects where you feel like you are cleaning up a mess someone made and you do the best you can. It also made me realize why it is so important to use long sleeve bolts. How would I rate the rock? On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd say 3, maybe 4 (being generous). 

The new anchor is in the best rock I could find.

I dropped down and had a hard time finding the upper lead bolt. It was lower than I expected and hard to spot, since it was a bare quarter inch stud in a sea of lichen and moss. It too was hideously under-driven (why did they even bother?) and fell out after less than a turn. The first lead bolt was easier to find and the best quality (although oriented pointing slightly down and fell out after less than 2 turns). I reused both holes for the lead bolts. Every new bolt is torqued to spec.

Here are the old lead bolts (hangerless with no nuts) and a photo topo of the route.





North Finger East Edge 5.7R