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Author Topic: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch  (Read 7476 times)

mynameismud

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Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« on: May 10, 2009, 09:42:21 PM »
Went down to the Pins with a new climbing partner and rope gun.  I rode the TR all day.  My fingers are sore from the first knuckle to the pads.

Wet Kiss
Big Pucker
Rocket in my Pocket
Future Shock - TR attempt.  After many hangs I managed most of the moves.
The Girls showed up so we headed over to the front side of the Monolith.
Monolith Direct - Woops I actually led this - Hmm someone must have been slacking.
Terranian Tango
Cataract Corner - After a bit I made it to the crux.  Mudworm styled to the Crux. 

Everyone did better than I, but oh it was fun.  Pulling mud in the sun.
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F4?

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #1 on: May 11, 2009, 06:53:27 AM »
If I didn't know better I'd say Mr Mud was Sport climbing!
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Brad Young

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #2 on: May 11, 2009, 06:57:36 AM »
I got stuck doing long, multi-pitch, classics on granite.
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squiddo

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #3 on: May 11, 2009, 08:55:06 AM »
oh Brad...that sucks and trully sorry. Heading to the gulch on Wens PM/Thursday AM. It's gonna suck for sure!
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Brad Young

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #4 on: May 11, 2009, 09:29:32 AM »
Yeah, I would really prefer Pinns - working toward that 800th route. Still, Voodoo Dome has some really nice routes. Summer Sojourn is long and solid 5.8 (Needles "5.7+"). White Punks on Dope is super, with one solid 5.9 pitch (Needles "5.8/5.9"). The rest 5.8.

Ended up there instead of Red Rocks, which had predicted highs in the high 90s!
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squiddo

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2009, 09:36:07 AM »
Ahhh...you went to the Needles! I love that place and haven't been out there in years. Both the routes listed are great.
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mynameismud

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2009, 09:55:34 AM »
I wasn't sport climbing, I was top roping.

The bolt that protects the moves through the crux on Future Shock really need to be replaced.
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squiddo

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #7 on: May 11, 2009, 09:57:03 AM »
I tr'd that once....and by TR I mean I dogged my ass up that thing. That crux move was beyond my weakness.
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mynameismud

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2009, 10:02:00 AM »
Some of the key beta on that is not to use the hole.  It sucks you in but makes the route way harder.  Move slightly left to some ok nubbins then reach to the right of the hole for a good edge.  From there ya grab a sharp edge above the hole, then move up a bit then dead point for the large knob by the bolt.
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squiddo

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #9 on: May 11, 2009, 10:03:09 AM »
arrrg...of course I spent all the time front and center of the hole!!!!
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mudworm

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #10 on: May 11, 2009, 10:11:11 AM »
Mr. Mud forgot to mention that he brought three left shoes and one lonely right shoe on the trip. I had to give him props for having brought that right shoe. Nice job!

Sport climbing? Remember how high the first bolt on Monolith Direct is? Well, Mr. Mud skipped that one (he didn't see it). It made other people watching on the ground very nervous.
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squiddo

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #11 on: May 11, 2009, 10:12:08 AM »
That sounds like a solo. Does he subscribe to the "three points of contact" technique?
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mynameismud

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #12 on: May 11, 2009, 10:16:21 AM »
Sometimes.    :)
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joe

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #13 on: May 11, 2009, 12:46:31 PM »
"Some of the key beta on that is not to use the hole.  It sucks you in but makes the route way harder."

spot on.
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F4?

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #14 on: May 12, 2009, 07:04:17 AM »
Quote
I wasn't sport climbing, I was top roping.

Did the routes involve bolts....I rest my case.
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squiddo

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #15 on: May 12, 2009, 07:41:54 AM »
F4...by that definition no bolts would be allowed for the anchor either! That would be interesting on the Monolith!!!
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mungeclimber

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #16 on: May 12, 2009, 10:36:21 AM »
REALLY LONG slings would work
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squiddo

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #17 on: May 12, 2009, 10:53:16 AM »
yes....or just solo up and then downclimb. You only need a rope if you fall ::)
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F4?

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #18 on: May 12, 2009, 12:44:14 PM »
Quote
F4...by that definition no bolts would be allowed for the anchor either! That would be interesting on the Monolith!!!

Isn't most if not all of the climbing on the Monolith Sport Climbing???
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squiddo

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Re: Pins - 10 May - Bear Gulch
« Reply #19 on: May 12, 2009, 12:50:40 PM »
not all pinns routes with bolts qualify as "sport" climbing. You need more and better bolts. Begs the question though in that what "makes" a route sport?
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