Machete Arch FFA?

[mungeclimber]

so are the bolts useless, if preclipped? I would figure it is better than the first bolt on CD as the pre-clip.

[mynameismud]

If you are climbing the Direct the aid bolts are useless and the 1st bolt on CD is the only way to go.  Clipping the aid bolts will increase your swing into the rocks behind you. 

[Burner]

I think they are just there to aid up and probably the original intent was to follow the ramp left towards feed the beast.  They are totally useless and I'm not sure I would trust body weight on them, but they sure are nice for hanging a rack on.  Whenever I do the direct I pre clip the first bolt and then have someone spot me from behind so I don't smash the wall.

[mungeclimber]

If you are climbing the Direct the aid bolts are useless and the 1st bolt on CD is the only way to go.  Clipping the aid bolts will increase your swing into the rocks behind you. 

how will it increase the swing?  They are lower than CD first bolt?  (assume you are not clipping the first bolt on CD until you've lead up to it)

does it pull you to the left too much, and closer to the trail?

[mungeclimber]

I think they are just there to aid up and probably the original intent was to follow the ramp left towards feed the beast.  They are totally useless and I'm not sure I would trust body weight on them, but they sure are nice for hanging a rack on.  Whenever I do the direct I pre clip the first bolt and then have someone spot me from behind so I don't smash the wall.

Burner, yeah, i suspect that corner was some prior route. aid

I've TR'd it at least once (seem to recall it being 5.10ish) Once, from just right of FTB, and once from CD start.  The left side start by FTB is actually a really good line. Though a bit mossy in the upper left facing corner.

Adding bolts to make it a lead might be a bit of a squeeze tho.

[mynameismud]

Yes the bolts are further to the left and lower, so the swing is increased.

how will it increase the swing?  They are lower than CD first bolt?  (assume you are not clipping the first bolt on CD until you've lead up to it)

does it pull you to the left too much, and closer to the trail?

[karl]

The first time I lead CD, I used those two bolts.

I intended to do the 5.10 version, but misunderstood the start.  Someone told me to lean across to clip the bolt and climb.  I leaned in from the trail, clipped, and started in the middle of the 5.12 version.  I onsighted this version out of fear.  It wasn't until several years later that I learned that the lean across was from the boulder above.

[F4?]

"The first time I lead CD, I used those two bolts.

I intended to do the 5.10 version, but misunderstood the start.  Someone told me to lean across to clip the bolt and climb.  I leaned in from the trail, clipped, and started in the middle of the 5.12 version.  I onsighted this version out of fear.  It wasn't until several years later that I learned that the lean across was from the boulder above."

Priceless. Must have felt hard for only 10C??

I say remove the old bolts and "move them" properly pro the direct start. Would they help much compared to a good spot?

[karl]

Priceless. Must have felt hard for only 10C??

I say remove the old bolts and "move them" properly pro the direct start. Would they help much compared to a good spot?

I was a little surprised, but just figured it was stiff for the grade.


As for the bolts . . . I wouldn't move them.  The .12 version hardly ever gets climbed and it makes the most sense to just use the bolt from the boulder.  You only have to watch the swing for the first couple of moves.

[MUCCI]

What is the Aid/Free ratings of the arch....Does the bombay chimney in the middle protect well (on aid or free) Finally Where does one start the route, directly up to the lone bolt then right or does it start further left. Looks like an adventure on aid!
Mucci

[F4?]

It's all free. you can start at the left and work right. The bombay in the middle is not that bad and you get to rest.

The best part was the fact that you're like 10ft off the deck. If you get sketched, put a piece in to pro the move.

While there, brush the footholds a bit.

[mynameismud]

Most people go left to right.  If you free it the rating is 10+, 11- something like that.  On Aid it is probably A1 or A2.

It has also been climbed right to left which is easier since you down climb the crux.  The chimney is not bad and can be protected with large to medium gear.

Basically whatever works for you.  Have fun.  It is better than it looks.  Not a bad way to spend a rainy day.