Real Men....Deux

[F4?]

Last week Squiddo and I went back to the Yaks for more punishment and solitude.....Another fine Rupert K. free route....and a bonus Clint variation w/ no pictures.



Looks WIDE above


Almost there.....

[NOAL]

Real men love the Liebacker's!!!  I have a photo somewhere of a climber doing the same fist pump on that route! Awesome!

[F4?]

Yeah, what a route. It ate and ate up gear.

It was cool to be alone out there on that route.
But a kick in the nuts when we had to walk off and shortly saw Mamot Rock.

[Brad Young]

Very nice. It's nice to see; between you two and Adam the Yaks are getting some traffic already this season.

[squiddo]

Very nice. It's nice to see; between you two and Adam the Yaks are getting some traffic already this season.

Heck yea, second time In a week and at least another or two I hope before closure.....shoot the tube and few others

[Brad Young]

Heck yea, second time In a week and at least another or two I hope before closure.....shoot the tube and few others

Let's see what closes - last year it stayed open.

Remember on Shoot the Tube that Jim added an upper bolt to the route when he rebolted it (that bolt isn't shown on the route topo).

[squiddo]

Let's see what closes - last year it stayed open.

Remember on Shoot the Tube that Jim added an upper bolt to the route when he rebolted it (that bolt isn't shown on the route topo).

Oh that would be sweet ....more time to man up:-)

[F4?]

What is Adam doing out there?
Hmmm

So if Jim added a bolt to Shoot the tube....hmm

[squiddo]

What is Adam doing out there?
Hmmm

So if Jim added a bolt to Shoot the tube....hmm

Bolt the lines! Lotta stone out there

[clink]

 
 Great you guys are getting on routes at the Yaks.

 Only time on that was in 82.  ?  Was a real boy, now a real old fuc?

 

[squiddo]

 Great you guys are getting on routes at the Yaks.

 Only time on that was in 82.  ?  Was a real boy, now a real old fuc?

 

Ha that's me now

[JC w KC redux]

Let's see what closes - last year it stayed open.
Remember on Shoot the Tube that Jim added an upper bolt to the route when he rebolted it (that bolt isn't shown on the route topo).

What is Adam doing out there?
Hmmm
So if Jim added a bolt to Shoot the tube....hmm

Brad - can you put an explanation of the bolt addition on Shoot the Tube in the guidebook corrections please?
I evidently discovered it during the compiling of my Rebolt Master List because I included it on there.
I think it is important that people know about it in proper context.
We don't want anyone getting any wrong ideas about adding bolts to routes.

[JC w KC redux]

Yeah, what a route. It ate and ate up gear.

Guidebook says gear to 5"

Is a single rack to #5 camalot plus stoppers and tricams adequate?

I also wanted to ask you guys how the bolts on Orion look.

[Brad Young]

Brad - can you put an explanation of the bolt addition on Shoot the Tube in the guidebook corrections please?
I evidently discovered it during the compiling of my Rebolt Master List because I included it on there.
I think it is important that people know about it in proper context.
We don't want anyone getting any wrong ideas about adding bolts to routes.

Yes, good idea. I'll try to get it done today (between snow blowing, driving down the hill in the snow, and first day back to work, well... busy right now).

[Gavin]

Let's see what closes - last year it stayed open.

Actually, I closed the Yaks and Yaks Wall with the initial climbing advisories last year. I did open it up later - by March or April - when it became clear that no falcons were nesting in the area. I will probably start with the Yaks / Yaks Wall area closed again in January, then watch it closely and plan to open it again by April if no birds are nesting.

Speaking of the Yaks: I climbed there again for a bit in November and agree the area is amazing. I'd love to get back out there before the closures start on January 17... If the rain lets up!

[squiddo]

Guidebook says gear to 5"

Is a single rack to #5 camalot plus stoppers and tricams adequate?

I also wanted to ask you guys how the bolts on Orion look.

Did not climb Orion, yet. I can say the first bolt looked to be an old Leaper. Tato Pani was good and although the first bolt sported a homemade hanger and the second a rusted leaper its very good. The new 5.9 to the right was excellent- spacing on the name but very, VERY solid rock. Cool a** moves above the second bold here a high steps gets you to a solid .75-1 C4 placement through the crux.

We brought single rack nuts, single of midsize tricams , single C4 up to #4, single WC #5, doubles on C4 #2 & #3. And yes, a lotta slings. it was plenty.

[F4?]

Yeah Gavin, we saw an old nest on liebackers mid way up.

Thankfully it was vacant.

The cool pat of the yaks was the only sound was were the pigeons flapping by.

[mynameismud]

I thought it was the lack of wind in the windmills of your mind.

[JC w KC redux]

Did not climb Orion, yet. I can say the first bolt looked to be an old Leaper. Tato Pani was good and although the first bolt sported a homemade hanger and the second a rusted leaper its very good. The new 5.9 to the right was excellent- spacing on the name but very, VERY solid rock. Cool a** moves above the second bold here a high steps gets you to a solid .75-1 C4 placement through the crux.

We brought single rack nuts, single of midsize tricams , single C4 up to #4, single WC #5, doubles on C4 #2 & #3. And yes, a lotta slings. it was plenty.

Thanks dude - I'll make a note in my guidebook.
That tricam placement you put on fb was cool.

I'll have to work on rebolting out there at some point.

[clink]

Thankfully it was vacant.

Windmills removed for safety?