Another hot, schweaty day yesterday in the Pinns. We set out to summit a pinnacle that has beckoned to me since I started climbing. I remember years ago as a casual hiker, I was drawn to this pinnacle and always wondered if there was a way to the top. I imagined myself sitting in the saddle between the two peaks for a photo op. It was time - but without a separate photographer - sans the photo op. We had first tracks in the parking lot. A car with 3 climbers (a guy and two gals) pulled up before we left and they said they were headed to Balconies. A good day to do Shake and Bake?
We headed up the canyon and through the tunnel. The approach trail along the south side of the Teapots is steep and loose. It starts out through a bunch of old decayed logs and transitions to steep loose gravel, rocks and scattered outcrops. We worked our way down to a spot where it drops off about 15 or 20 feet - reminded me of a few of the spots along the machete descent. It looked like it might be possible to scramble through some broken, probably rotten outcrops to the right but I stuck with the short "drop". I scooted down to a basketball sized chockstone in a flaring cleft and then downclimbed using chimney-like moves initially, then face holds and a flake. KC was feeling spooked by the whole thing, so I climbed back up and set a belay with a some runners and biners on a sturdy tree. Below the "drop" we skied down a scree and leaf filled gulley followed by one last stretch of terrain similar to that above the "drop". At this point I was thinking the climb might be anticlimactic
We scrambled and fought our way into the gap to the base of Ball but I was uncertain of the start and it didn't look 3rd class to me. We went back out of the gap and down a little to re-survey the scene. I perceived three lines that might lead to the initial flat spot and anchor described in the book. Two of those lines went far enough left that a fall would probably be fatal. I hemmed and hawed for a while, surveyed with binocs and damn near decided to call it a day. Stubborn determination led us back up to the base and once I got through all the tree branches, I realized that the line furthest right looked doable. I never cease to be amazed at how different things can look from a distance versus once you actually get on the rock. I slung a small clump of shrubbery (Ni!) on the top of an initial pedestal before starting up, but that quickly became humorous. No slingable knobs, no protectable cracks and plenty of loose rock just waiting to be knocked off. Keep your head and climb.
Carefully picking my way through the moss and choss, I finally got to the flat spot and the two bolt anchor. I contemplated slinging a couple of large knobs along the “ridge” as directionals but they were all loose. KC followed without issue. From the anchor, I chose the left traverse around the first bulge. SPOILER ALERT: An easy traverse led me into a loose gully and up to a big chunky boulder. Standing atop the boulder I could reach the bolt that protects the crux over the second bulge. I cranked the bulge and rested briefly above. The move felt harder than any 5.6 I’ve done in the Pinns. I’d put it at 5.7. I was surprised that there was another bolt above the first – since the climbing is much easier from there to the summit. There is a nice flat spot on the summit and you can touch the magical tree. It looks like it would be relatively easy to downclimb into the saddle between the summit peaks - but without a photographer on the trail there isn’t much point. The summit anchor is nice and in a comfortable position for belaying your second. KC made the crux look easy but agreed that it is a grade harder than listed and very reach dependent. We all know ratings are subjective and this is an old school rating (1951). We enjoyed the views before negotiating the somewhat tricky rappel down to the 2nd rap station. The rock slants left and to maintain the ridge you want to veer a bit right. As I got lower down, it felt like there was a good potential for a humongous swing out into space if I lost my balance. I was glad I went first. I stayed on the rope to the second station and kept the ends of the rope tied in to the anchor after tethering myself – that way KC wouldn’t have to worry. The 2nd rap station is positioned perfectly for an easy rope pull from the summit.
The second rap puts you right back into the tree branches at the start. After getting a good back scratching I unhooked and downclimbed through the branches, pulling the ends of the rope with me. I told KC that this experience was like Brad’s latest climb in the Sierra…glad we did it but also glad it was done. It was broiling hot on the scramble back up to the trail. We stopped for a chat with some folks at the entrance to the tunnel. We were in no hurry to get back on to the “easy bake oven” section of the trail. I took lots of pics of the pinnacle on the way down. I love the way the appearance of any pinnacle varies as you look from different vantage points. It also helped take my mind off the heat! It was 104 in the parking lot and 59 back in the fog of Rio Del Mar
The Barking Seal aka Ball Pinnacle
SPOILER ALERT: Photo beta
The “drop” on the approach – 4th bordering on 5th class
JC starts up the route – I picked the wrong day to forget my chainsaw!
KC just after the crux move
KC finishing up the moss and choss
KC negotiating the tricky rappel with backup (I held the rope and braced to make sure she couldn't swing)
View from the 2nd/lower rap station
