In my defense I checked the forum when we got home and there hadn't been any activity since we left!
Now here's the real story:
We went up to Brad's Memorial Day weekend and got snowed out.
Brad let me know he had an area he needed to work on for the guidebook that would be perfect to introduce us to SPH climbing. The climbs would range between 5.4 and 5.9, so we waited anxiously to head up last weekend.
In the meantime I let Brad and Rob know we had almost no experience with crack climbing. I had only tried a few short hand cracks in the Red River Gorge almost 25 years ago - long story short - I sucked at it!
I also realized that not knowing the technique would probably severely limit our choices. KC has never tried it.
The approach was way different than anything I've/we've ever done climbing-wise.
We found ouselves meandering up a rock avalanche gully - unnerving to the geologist in me - but hey...that's the Sierra.
When we got to the crag I was intimidated by the steepness - hell...I was intimidated by the whole place!
The altitude kicked our butts too.
In short order Brad headed up what he thought was a 5.7...but the higher he got the more he kept saying - "This is NOT 5.7!"
On up he went...
Now Brad and I have never climbed together and I noticed him grunting quite a bit on the moves.
I decided that was either just his style or I had really stepped in it!
It turned out to be the latter...
Rob was nice enough to coach me off the ground and into the crack.
Looking at the crack in front of me I asked "What happens if I can't get up this thing?"
He said I could yard off the gear.
After I managed a few moves, he left me to my baptism by fire...
Here I am starting over after my first fall
I finally managed to fight my way up to a good rest and pondered how I was gonna get up this sucker.
Luckily there was an easier section before it got hard again.
I made my way up to the short headwall and stepped up high to give the overhanging section a go.
Brad let me know it was SOLID 5.10a
There was one good jam to hang off while I cleaned the pro.
I jammed, stepped up and peeled off.
Then I popped off a second time...after nearly making the reach.
I took a breath, set up a little different, sunk the jam the best I could and tried a different sequence - success!
The climb would become a first ascent AND Brad did me the honor of naming it Now You're Cookin'...NICE!
From the trad anchor, we downclimbed a short section of class 4 to a bolted anchor, and rapped off.
Brad proceeded to lead the 5.7** originally intended - Under The Stairs
and I got to follow...trailing a rope so KC could follow too
When I got to the top, dark skies started threatening and a few raindrops were starting to fall, so we bailed. Brad rapped down and cleaned the climb while I set up the trailed rope to rap off the back. About the time he got down and I was setup, the raindrops stopped and the storm cloud blew over. Too late...we had to start over. I rapped down and Craig led the climb so KC could follow.
KC following Under The Stairs 5.7**
I think this one says it all! Craig took the shots from the top - thanks DMT!
Day 2 we started a little further down the crag with Brad leading Dooley 5.9**
This pic was taken by Craig from across the road at a different crag. You can see Brad leading on the left while I belay (in my trademark orange shirt) and Steve Dawson led Needs More Cowbell 5.8 while his wife Laura belayed.
The pics of us following Dooley didn't turn out very good because we were taking them from the belay.
I went first and cleaned the pro. I BARELY made it to the top without falling.
The last section of finger crack is still a mystery to me but I clawed my way up it somehow.
JC gettin worked...workin' the crack on Dooley
KC givin' it a try. She didn't make it but she gave it a hell of an effort!
After Dooley, I got to follow Brad on Needs More Cowbell 5.8
The start of the 2nd pitch reminded me of another place I love! Nothing like standing up into a pile of dirt!
Meanwhile KC followed the Dawson's on Probably Not A Good Idea 5.5*
Were we crack-thrashed? Yes. Did we learn a lot? Yes. Did we meet a new tribe of really great folks? Yep.
As far as firsts go...there is no comparison!
Can't wait to go again!!!
