Author Topic: The PCT Volume 20 Redux: As Fun as the First Time  (Read 934 times)

Brad Young

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The PCT Volume 20 Redux: As Fun as the First Time
« on: September 17, 2024, 03:08:33 PM »
Katie and I had a wonderful, if fairly short, resumption of the PCT together this year. Agnew Meadow (behind Mammoth) to Tuolumne Meadows.


Day One:

I'm starting to wonder about my older daughter Katie. Can she see the future? Can she summon spirits? Is she some kind of backpacking witch-doctor?

Consider the following facts: She did the scheduling for this year's PCT resumption in May, four months ago. The three days she planned? We had glorious weather. And finished hours before an early-season snow storm. How did she know? She told me on day two how much fun she was having, but oh, wouldn't it be great to see a bear? Twenty minutes later I see Katie ahead, stopped in the trail, forcefully telling something unseen that we "needed the trail." Ursa Conjures? On this trip she had a solution to everything that failed or was forgotten: a broken tent pole, the left-behind battery, a toenail that hurt.

What's going on here? I'm not quite sure. Yet. But my "Dirtbag Barbie" daughter continues to be an ideal backpacking partner.

This trip covered the same part of the PCT as the trip Tricia and I did in September, 2013. And like that trip, this one was just a joy. Here's a link to that report for anyone who wants to time travel:

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=1917.0

This trip started cold and early - the rules of Mammoth state that one must drive past Minaret Vista Entrance Station before 7:00 a.m. or ride the dreaded shuttle bus down instead:







Northbound, the PCT leaves Agnew Meadow, destination Thousand Island Lake. Luckily taking "the High Trail" to get there. The High Trail requires serious uphill straight out of the trailhead, but, speaking from 2,500 miles of other PCT experience, gives some of the most incredible views of anywhere on the trail.

The cold-morning uphill:







One of my longest-time climbing partners decided to join us on this first day. He had friends staying back near Thousand Island Lake and so joined us hiking to there. I've been climbing with Dave for nearly 40 years and he's known Katie since "before she was born." A shared love of the outdoors has created nice friendships between my daughter and many of my "older" friends. So, many of my friends are her friends too:







Listing Dave's High Sierra climbing achievements would take a longer paragraph than readers here might want. Katie got to hear some of his best stories, though. It took some prompting from me to get him talking, but Dave is a great storyteller with great stories.

Here's a view of the Minarets, Mount Ritter, and, fading rightward into tree branches, Banner Peak. I asked Dave how many Minarets there are. His answer (if I remember correctly without looking it up): "There are 19." How many have you summited? "All 19." This "all 19," by the way, includes Dyer Minaret - so obscure and hard to reach that when he did the summit, a then-decades old register there listed seven prior ascents. It was quite pleasing to me (and I think, to her too) that Katie got to hear all of this:







Dave's a little slower than he used to be, but hey, which of us that has been doing this for more than a decade or two isn't:




Rest breaks involved the usual food and water. And continued staring at the Sierra (and therefore, here, Pacific) Crest:







Katie is built for this type of walking. When she was littler, one of her nicknames was "Legs." It still fits:




On the High Trail:




Looking south, toward Mammoth (at San Joaquin Mountain and Two Teats):




First view of Thousand Island Lake:




Katie's planning had put us here on an absolutely perfect Sierra day:




Dave said goodbye to us here. And, although we'd considered staying at the lake, we knew about incoming weather and thought that a few more miles would be smart. The views got better as we continued:







The location of that last shot in particular brought back memories of my 2013 trip with then-11 year old daughter Tricia:




Tricia and I were to have finished our continuous footsteps on the PCT this year (she and I have done a total of 2,540 miles out of 2,650.1 to that border from Mexico - starting with sister Katie and me, with my wife's constant help, the day after Tricia turned five years old!). Until a fire in northern Washington closed that part of the trail three weeks before we were supposed to hike. A mere 109 miles to Canada for us and we couldn't even start this year.

On this trip, Katie and I went another four miles to Island Pass. We found a nice little lake to camp near. And views:










Dinner followed, and then a restful and crystal-clear but not-too-cold night:


Brad Young

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Re: The PCT Volume 20 Redux: As Fun as the First Time
« Reply #1 on: September 17, 2024, 08:52:08 PM »
Day Two:

Today's miles would start with gentle climbing to Donahue Pass and the border of Yosemite National Park (gentle by Sierra Nevada standard that is). Oh, but breakfast! No hiking day can begin without breakfast, can it:




Off and up:







We crossed Rush Creek just below Marie Lakes. Those of you who drive Highway 395 also cross Rush Creek. Lower down though, the highway crossing is about midway between the towns of June Lake and Lee Vining:




Almost at the pass:







We took a very long break at Donahue. One of Katie's housemates and his girlfriend were taking advantage of our one-way trip to do their own: he and Katie swapped car keys so that she'd have her car waiting for the end of her backpack and he'd have his truck at Agnew Meadow after running there in a day from Tuolumne Meadows! Somehow we missed seeing these two, even though we waited. Probably while they were summiting Mount Lyell partway through their run.

We started down off the pass, into the park:




We got our first view of the Lyell Fork Canyon. We'd hike down to this and then down it to Tuolumne Meadows. More reminders of my 2013 trip with Tricia:










The descent to the canyon uses a quite-old trail, one built to old standards. Very few longer, gentler switchbacks and instead, mostly the steep and straight-down-the-hillside variety. It passes by some smaller lakes and over some very viewful benches:













The hiking is all very cruiser once on the canyon floor. We were barely started on this section when Katie made her comment about seeing a bear. Only half a mile later I caught up with her around a slight bend and heard her using her forceful, "I'm the boss" voice (yeah, she definitely has one).

Katie guided backpacking trips for seven summers out of college (she kept at it until she got a dream job this last June). Many, many trips in Yosemite and in Yellowstone with lots of clients. She's seen many, many bears and is trained to deal with grizzlies up in Yellowstone. So "mere" black bears in Yosemite cause no fear for her, just an appropriate amount of caution and respect. And admiration. This holds true even with big, big black bears. Here's who she was talking to on the trail (look at that incredible black fur with the blonde patch along the back; note also that this big bear is leaving the trail, as requested, in Katie's "I'm the boss" voice):







We found a campsite an easy morning's walk from the Meadows and settled in for what promised to be a cold night:



Brad Young

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Re: The PCT Volume 20 Redux: As Fun as the First Time
« Reply #2 on: September 18, 2024, 09:17:56 AM »
Day Three:

Snow flurries started at around 3:00 a.m. Small diameter corn snow; just enough to make noise as it hit the outside of the tent fly. It was nice to stay in a warm sleeping bag for a few more hours. By the time I got up the snow had stopped and the skies had mostly cleared. The cold hadn't stopped though.

Off we went for an easy morning's hike. Notice Katie wearing longs and not shorts? That's a true measure of how cold it was:







Photos like this might make one think that Katie doesn't regard her father with awe.The reader will therefore have to just trust me: she does:




The Canyon floor was particularly cold, although once the sun came over the ridge we thawed a bit:










The bridge over the fork let us know that we were closing in on the parking and lodging areas of Tuolumne Meadows:







We dropped our packs at Katie's car and continued along the road a little further to meet Vicki. We got a nice view of Cathedral Peak:




Lembert Dome parking, our car, Vicki and (in a very pixelated blowup) the canines. All waiting. Isn't life fantastic:







The road towards the stables was paved a few years ago and the PCT follows that. So we did too, to get in a little head start on next year's segment:







I'm not sure that Katie and I will even make it to Washington with these yearly hikes, but every one of them is a treasure. Tricia and I had a great time through this part of the trail a decade ago and it's a lot of fun repeating them and remembering.

Up next year with Katie: Tuolumne Meadows to Sonora Pass (finishing a 50 minute drive from our house).

clink

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Re: The PCT Volume 20 Redux: As Fun as the First Time
« Reply #3 on: September 18, 2024, 05:01:03 PM »

 And here of all people, you sired the Sierra Sorceress.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

lasher

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Re: The PCT Volume 20 Redux: As Fun as the First Time
« Reply #4 on: September 19, 2024, 07:24:14 AM »
Looks like a great trip if not a little cold.  It was fun to see the pictures from 10 years ago.  I recognized a lot of those areas from when we went through there 2019 on our PCT trip.  Of course when we went through most of it was covered in snow.

I’m glad this trip was a success especially considering the challenges you’ve faced with the Washington section. 

NOAL

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Re: The PCT Volume 20 Redux: As Fun as the First Time
« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2024, 12:21:37 AM »
Gonna have to remember that trekking pole move.

You two can totally make it to Washington.  Now that you've done almost the whole PCT just repeat the best parts.  This section I could repeat numerous times.  It's nice . :)

Brad Young

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Re: The PCT Volume 20 Redux: As Fun as the First Time
« Reply #6 on: September 27, 2024, 07:35:39 AM »

Now that you've done almost the whole PCT just repeat the best parts.


Yeah, the thing is that when I'm hanging with one of the girls, they are all the best parts. Katie and I will just continue in consecutive order and see how far we get. And now that she lives and works in Truckee, once we get to Sonora Pass, we may have a summer where we get several hundred miles done by way of multiple weekend trips close to the Truckee area.

Meanwhile they've reopened the PCT up by the Suiattle River and they've reopened the Suiattle River Trailhead. Oh, but the seven miles of trail that connect the trailhead to the PCT? The mother#$%ers have kept that closed. Because the fire left conditions that might be unsafe. The hell with "unsafe." Those decisionmakers up there presumably drive in Seattle-area traffic almost every day. And they're worried about a trail being dangerous?



mungeclimber

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Re: The PCT Volume 20 Redux: As Fun as the First Time
« Reply #7 on: September 27, 2024, 07:44:14 AM »
This was nice to catch up on. Is there an easy way to get into Thousand Island Lake? I'm going to get some kind of backpacking in soon because of this TR. Good inspo!

Kind of bummed I may not see Tuolumne this year though. I have a 3 day Sunday entrance reservation for Oct 13-15th. But can't use it now. :(

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: The PCT Volume 20 Redux: As Fun as the First Time
« Reply #8 on: September 27, 2024, 08:59:36 AM »
The trail from the June Lake area to Thousand Island is shorter but gains more elevation. I'd say that one of the trails from Agnew Meadow is easier overall.

NOAL

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Re: The PCT Volume 20 Redux: As Fun as the First Time
« Reply #9 on: September 27, 2024, 01:07:02 PM »
Quote
Yeah, the thing is that when I'm hanging with one of the girls, they are all the best parts.

Agreed. 

mynameismud

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Re: The PCT Volume 20 Redux: As Fun as the First Time
« Reply #10 on: October 02, 2024, 12:07:05 PM »
we agree

Yeah, the thing is that when I'm hanging with one of the girls, they are all the best parts. Katie and I will just continue in consecutive order and see how far we get. And now that she lives and works in Truckee, once we get to Sonora Pass, we may have a summer where we get several hundred miles done by way of multiple weekend trips close to the Truckee area.

Meanwhile they've reopened the PCT up by the Suiattle River and they've reopened the Suiattle River Trailhead. Oh, but the seven miles of trail that connect the trailhead to the PCT? The mother#$%ers have kept that closed. Because the fire left conditions that might be unsafe. The hell with "unsafe." Those decisionmakers up there presumably drive in Seattle-area traffic almost every day. And they're worried about a trail being dangerous?
Here's to sweat in your eye