841.2 Book of Leon 5.8 ** This three pitch route starts in the Fern Grotto, at the extreme right (west) end of Resurrection North’s north face. Approach from a point 100 feet up-canyon from Dog Do Afternoon. Traverse a fern-covered, class two hillside directly toward a scrub oak growing at the base of the face. Move right, up a steeper, also fern-covered slope, as far as possible (some class three). Book of Leon starts in a 15 foot diameter half-circle of rock with a fairly flat floor. Note that this approach can be treacherous when wet.
Pitch One, 5.6 (50 feet): Climb to a bolt located 20 feet above the half-circle’s left side. Traverse left from the bolt, almost horizontally, on loose rock (three and four inch gear and one more bolt). Easy movement past the last bolt leads to a flat area. Belay at a bolt backed up by a two inch piece.
Pitch Two, 5.4 (45 feet): Climb to and up the corner/slot above (1¼ to four inch gear). Finish at a two-bolt anchor above a nice ledge.
Pitch Three, 5.8 (90 feet): This superb and sustained 90 foot pitch climbs to a two-bolt anchor on top of the cliff. Stay left of a left-facing corner past two bolts. Move into the corner and continue to the top (five more bolts and one each, two and three inch gear). Descend by walking off right or by rappel (two 90 foot rappels lead to the scrub oak at the base of the face, downhill from the start of the route). FA Party: Noal Elkins, Erik Bratton. FA Date: February 13, 2022. Source(s): Email from Elkins regarding the route on February 15, 2022; further discussions with Elkins after that date; ascent of route with Elkins and Jennifer Wang, March 12, 2022.
841.7 Mister Magoo 5.3 Climb the 45 foot high water chute located 65 feet northeast from Book of Leon’s third pitch top anchor (Mister Magoo faces the anchor). Note that Mister Magoo is not accessible from the base of Resurrection North’s north face; climb Book of Leon or walk to the top of the cliff before walking over then down to its start. There is no protection on the route but the crux is low. Walk off right. FA Party: John Cook. FA Date: February 19, 2022. Source(s): Email from Cook regarding new route on March 10, 2022; solo ascent of route on March 12, 2022.
844.22 Ostrich Size 5.5 * This is the leftmost route at Bonnie Lass Buttress.
Bonnie Lass Buttress: Bonnie Lass Buttress is located at the left end of the cliff that is the north side of Resurrection Middle. Routes here center on a very large scoop located 250 feet left from the very deep alcove which includes the easy-to-find Eye Candy Crag route Chubby Rain (Eye Candy Crag is described next). Routes at Bonnie Lass Buttress all start with 20 feet of class four, up and left, into the large scoop.
This Route: The route gets a star for its position and exposure.
Pitch One, 5.5 (80 feet): Climb up and left from the scoop to the route’s first bolt (30 feet above the ground, just below an enormous, fully embedded lodestone). A bolt 10 feet higher protects easy movement up and left, past a low-angle thin crack/shallow corner (no gear here, sling multiple knobs above for protection). Move more up than left to a third bolt and then a fourth 10 feet farther. The fourth bolt protects crux moves onto an up-and-left ramp. A fifth bolt is just above a step-down left to a two-bolt anchor above a stance.
Pitch Two, 5.5 (50 feet): The last bolt on the first pitch serves as the first bolt for the second. Continue up and a little right past two more bolts to a very exposed stance on a huge lodestone. Three more bolts on getting-easier terrain lead to a two-bolt anchor up and left from another huge lodestone.
Descent: Rappel from the second pitch top anchor, 95 feet to the ground. FA Party: Brad Young, Noal Elkins, Gavin Emmons, Bob Walton. FA Date: April 2, 2023. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
844.25 Twist and Shout 5.9 *** Protection on this route consists of 11 bolts in 95 feet. Start as for Ostrich Size, but move to the back, right of the scoop. A first bolt there is 30 feet above the ground, just left of the easily-visible, mossy water streak. Continue on the steep wall above, still left of the streak. Easier climbing leads to a faint arete. Follow this up and left to a face. Climb the face to a two-bolt anchor just below the top of the cliff. Descend by rappelling the route. FA Party: Brad Young, Noal Elkins, Gavin Emmons. FA Date: April 2, 2023. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
844.30 Wander and Ponder 5.2 Wander and Ponder is the leftmost route at Eye Candy Crag (Eye Candy Crag is the north face of Resurrection Middle).
Eye Candy Crag: Reach Eye Candy Crag from Juniper Canyon Trail. Move up the sub-canyon below Resurrection North’s north face to and then beyond Numbskull’s Needle. Continue across a hillside, then left, around The Candy Bar’s east end to the ridgetop between that formation and Resurrection Middle. Eye Candy Crag is visible from this ridgetop, 250 feet to the southeast. Get to its base by walking south, gently uphill, staying right of heavier brush. Veer left (east) after 100 feet to traverse a hillside. Stay out from the crag, walking just back from the top of Resurrection North’s north face. Curve right (south) toward Eye Candy Crag after 200 feet of nearly level walking. Gaps through brush lead to the right side of the cliff (left of scruffy slabs). The crag’s most prominent feature, a very deep alcove with pronounced left and right walls, is 60 feet farther along (east).
This Route: Wander and Ponder is the only Eye Candy route located left of the prominent, deep alcove which helps make the area easy to identify. The route climbs the face to the left of a massive left-facing corner which doesn’t quite reach the ground, all 50 feet left from the route Fake Purse Ninjas (listed next). Start directly below the bottom of the corner. Very featured climbing leads up and left. Continue straight up, now out to the left of the corner. Move back toward the corner (and cleaner rock) about 50 feet up. Finish at a one-bolt anchor above an enormous lodestone, 80 feet from the start. The only protection on the route is slung knobs, but there are many opportunities for those. FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook. FA Date: May 20, 2023. Source(s): Description of the new route from its base; ascent of route with Kathy Cook an hour after its first ascent.
844.31 Fake Purse Ninjas 5.7 ** Fake Purse Ninjas starts near the back of the deep alcove. Climb a flaring slot/chimney on the alcove’s left wall to a bolt 12 feet up. The slot continues past a second bolt, then opens up. A hole to the right takes a five-inch cam (although the distance to bolt three is manageable without it). Continue up what is now a very shallow, very wide groove. Another hole to the right above bolt three takes a five-inch cam (also optional). From the route’s fourth bolt, move right. Climb straight up to bolts five and six (bolt six is in a small scoop and is hard to see from below). Easier climbing leads left and up to the top of the face and a two-bolt anchor above a stance. Descend by rappelling 70 feet. FA Party: John Cook, Noal Elkins. FA Date: November 2, 2019. Source(s): Email from John Cook with detail of new routes, November 2021; ascent of route on March 26, 2022.
844.32 Chubby Rain 5.8 *** Start this route in a chimney at the deep alcove’s highest point. Climb the chimney until it fades, then move onto the face to the left. Continue to a crux bulge. Move up and right there to a short section of left-facing corner. Finish with a left traverse under a headwall to a two-bolt anchor. Protection consists of five bolts and one each one through four inches. Descend by a 95 foot rappel. FA Party: John Cook, Noal Elkins. FA Date: October 13, 2019. Source(s): Email from John Cook with detail of new routes, November 2021; ascent of route on April 2, 2022.
844.33 Sticks and Stones 5.4 R This two pitch route starts a few feet right of Chubby Rain. Climb a mossy groove 25 feet to a ledge below a large but shallow hole (protection: poor slung knobs and a large stopper between small lodestones). Move left, then well right under a headwall (more slung knobs). Finish after 70 feet at an exposed, flat perch with a two-bolt anchor (this is also the top anchor for Hindsight and Naked Groove, both listed below). Pitch two climbs the narrow ridge directly above the belay. The ridge becomes a slab after 15 feet. Continue to the top of the slab, 105 feet from the start (protect the pitch with one bolt 30 feet up and slung knobs). Move across a plateau to make a body position belay on a reverse slope. Descend by moving to the Chubby Rain top anchor (exposed class four downclimbing), or by moving to and down Finishing Touch (class three, described below). FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook, Jennifer Wang. FA Date: February 18, 2020. Source(s): Email from John Cook with detail of new routes, November 2021; ascent of route on March 26, 2022.
844.34 Break My Bones 5.2 R Begin at the two-bolt top anchor for Sticks and Stones’ first pitch. Traverse 15 feet right across a slab. Move straight up to a bolt. Continue up and left to join Sticks and Stones just below its bolt. Finish to the top on that route. FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook. FA Date: June 29, 2020. Source(s): Email from John Cook with detail of new routes, November 2021; ascent of route on April 2, 2022.
844.35 Hindsight 5.7 * Climb the right wall of the deep alcove starting 15 feet right of Chubby Rain. Five bolts lead 60 feet to a two-bolt anchor shared with Sticks and Stones. It is possible to place gear between lodestones (or sling one of them) after the fifth bolt. FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook. FA Date: February 26, 2020. Source(s): Email from John Cook with detail of new routes, November 2021; ascent of route on April 2, 2022.
844.354 Tell a Lie 5.7 * This route is on the north-facing cliff to the right (west) of the deep alcove. Begin climbing 12 feet right of the outside corner where the alcove’s right wall meets the north face. A few low-angle moves lead to a bolt near the left-bottom of a gigantic lodestone. Continue past three more bolts, over two bulges, to a unique, nearly-cylindrical knob that protrudes a foot from the face (Pinocchio’s Nose). Sling this before moving onto an up-and-left ramp. Finish on the ramp past more sling knobs and a fifth bolt. A two-bolt anchor at the end of the ramp allows a rappel down and left, 55 feet to the ground. FA Party: Brad Young, Jennifer Wang, Laura Dawson, Marco Conci, Mikayla Tom. FA Date: April 24, 2022. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
844.36 The Great Humongous 5.8 ** Climb the face 10 feet right of Tell a Lie. Six closely spaced bolts protect steep climbing to and then up an up-and-left ramp. The ramp leads to a hanging meadow. Move out and right from the meadow, onto a sub-summit and a two-bolt anchor, 50 feet from the start. Descend by moving back to the meadow, then right. Downclimb the first part of Naked Groove (listed next). FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook. FA Date: July 14, 2020. Source(s): Email from John Cook with detail of new routes, November 2021; witnessed ascent of route by Laura Dawson, Bill Brewer, Steve Dawson, March 26, 2022.
844.37 Naked Groove Class Four Walk up the obvious, grassy gully 50 feet right of The Great Humongous. Continue up a low-angle slab to a hanging meadow. Climb a short section of slab at the left back of the meadow to the start of the “Naked Groove.” Follow this 45 feet to a two-bolt anchor (shared with Sticks and Stones and Hindsight). FA Party: Kathy Cook, Jennifer Wang. FA Date: February 16, 2020. Source(s): Email from John Cook with detail of new routes, November 2021; ascent of route on March 26, 2022.
844.38 Finishing Touch Class Three This route is the easiest way to the true summit of the huge mass that is Resurrection Middle. Climb Naked Groove to the hanging meadow. A slab to the right leads to a low-angle groove/gully. Follow this to a fairly level, plateau-like area. Walk to the formation’s highest point. Descend by downclimbing the route. FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Email from John Cook with detail of new routes, November 2021; ascent of route on March 26, 2022.
858.7 The Barber Pole 5.6 The Barber Pole is a previously unclimbed formation located on the ridge between Resurrection and Goat Rocks. It is much closer to Goat (150 feet) than to Resurrection (250 yards). Approach from the Juniper Canyon Trail, up to the notch on Resurrection’s south side (to this point, this is the same approach as for the climbing route Le Petit Mort). From the high point of the notch leave Resurrection Rock moving left (south) gently uphill. Stay west (right) of several 10 to 30 foot high pinnacles, continuing to a level part of the ridge about 150 yards from the Resurrection Wall notch (The Barber Pole comes into view from this level area). Continue another 100 yards to the north side of the formation. The climbing route ascends a very prominent up-and-left ramp to the summit. Start about 40 feet up and left of the ramp’s lowest point, moving straight up, 20 feet to a bolt. Continue left on the ramp using a 3½ inch piece, slung knobs, and a fixed piton before reaching a second bolt 60 feet from the beginning of the climb. More up and left movement leads past two more bolts to the route crux, a footwork-dependent traverse around a bulge. Once past the bulge, clip a fifth bolt, move up to a sixth, and then climb up and left on easy ground to the summit and a two-bolt anchor, 120 feet from the start. Descend by an 80 foot rappel to the ground (well to the left of the climb itself). FA Party: Brad Young, John Cook. FA Date: November 4, 2016. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
858.84 Pink Giant - Pink Eye 5.9 * Pink Eye is the leftmost route on Pink Giant’s west face.
Pink Giant: Pink Giant sits on a north-facing hillside, 500 feet east of Resurrection Wall and 500 feet south from Juniper Canyon Trail. It is named for its very tall north face which is a prominent pink in color. In spite of its proximity to the trail, Pink Giant isn’t easy to see from the lower reaches of the trail; trees and low buttresses block views. It is visible from higher parts of the trail though, including especially from the trail’s upper switchbacks. The formation’s tall, pink north face stands out for its size, its color and for its easily visible cracks and patches of lime green lichen. But the rock on this very-visible north face is extremely rotten. Routes on the pinnacle’s west side climb better rock; one climbs all the way to the summit. Approach using the same trail exit as for Resurrection Wall. Hike Juniper Canyon Trail past all six stream crossings. Continue on the trail another 200 yards to and then past the exit point for Resurrection North and Resurrection Middle. Walk 250 feet past that exit point to a second sharp left turn (to the east). Like the first, this left turn is at a small, often-dry side creek. Continue on the trail another 125 feet. The trail then veers slightly left, toward a crossing of the main Juniper Canyon stream. Exit right (south). Move uphill in a slight drainage. Brush blocks the way after 175 feet; turn right here to walk uphill. Continue to the base of a mossy rock. Move left along the base of the rock, curving right, up to the top of a low ridge (the mossy rock is a low, mossy mound at this, its south end). Continue another 100 feet on the Resurrection Wall approach where it traverses levelly to the right (southwest), toward a usually dry stream. Approaches diverge here. For Pink Giant, move left (straight uphill at first). Regain the low ridge, which becomes a hillside. Mostly brush-free passages up that hillside allow easy access to the mossy, left (downhill) end of Pink Giant’s west side. Move steeply uphill (right) to the route Pink Eye.
This Route: Pink Eye climbs to and then up the most visible water streak on Pink Giant’s west side. This streak is well right from the center of that face, 70 feet down and left from the 70 foot high, multi-facetted, mossy area of rock which connects Pink Giant with Little Pink Giant (the streak is especially faint down low). Start 15 feet up and right of the streak’s lowest reaches (the route does not start below the easily-visible but shallow, left-facing corner located up and to the right). Move up and left to a first bolt just above a tiny roof, 15 feet above the ground. Reach the streak at the third bolt. Finish up it past five more bolts (eight lead bolts total). A two-bolt top anchor allows a 95 foot rappel. FA Party: Marco Conci, Gavin Emmons, Brad Young. FA Date: May 7, 2023. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party; further text with details from Conci, May 7, 2023.
858.86 Pink Giant - Summit Route 5.5 * Summit Route ends on Pink Giant’s spacious summit. It begins 45 feet right of Pink Eye, at the highest, right end of Pink Giant’s west face.
Pitch One, 5.4 (80 feet): Move into a low angle, up-and-right chute. Climb this a short way before exiting up and left onto a slab and the route’s first bolt (15 feet above the start of the chute). The route’s second bolt is up and a little left. Step left into a faint streak which leads to bolt three. Bolt four is near the top of a slight headwall. A gentle up and left traverse follows to the route’s fifth bolt. Finish up a very low angle rock rib, past a sixth bolt, to a two-bolt anchor above a flat area.
Pitch Two, Class Three (60 feet): Move northeast to and then along an undulating rock ridge to a one-bolt anchor at the south base of a sub-summit (it is easy to link the first and second pitches if a climber is careful about rope drag).
Pitch Three, 5.5 (45 feet): Climb the south face of the sub-summit past two bolts to a two-bolt anchor, 25 feet from the start. Walk 20 more feet to the formation’s high point.
Descent: Rappel the south side of the sub-summit and reverse the class three to the top of the first pitch. Rappel 80 feet to the ground. FA Party: Brad Young, Jennifer Wang, Marco Conci. FA Date: February 12, 2023. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
858.87 Sidewalk in the Sky 5.2 * Sidewalk in the Sky is the first of three separate routes which climb only Pink Giant’s summit block (all three begin on top of the pinnacle’s main mass). Reach the start of the route from the top of pitch one or two of Summit Route or from the top anchor for Pink Eye. Class three from any of these anchors leads to a separate two-bolt start-anchor at the base of a crack which splits the summit block’s west side (the side toward Resurrection Wall; this crack is the route Nature Valley Granola Bar, and its start-anchor cannot be seen from any distance).
Pitch One, 5.1 (95 feet): Traverse left from the start-anchor. Pass a bolt after 10 feet to reach an exposed, up-and-left ramp/ledge. Bolts two and three are farther left, above the ledge. The ledge disappears getting to a fourth bolt. Pass this, then step down into a wide, low-angle, grassy chute. Continue up this, past small trees to a flat, meadowy area. Finish at a two-bolt belay on a wonderfully viewful sub-summit to the left (toward parking).
Pitch Two, 5.2 (65 feet): Cross back over the meadowy area for pitch two. Climb a low-angle, faint, mossy streak past two bolts to Pink Giant’s summit. Continue south to the two-bolt top anchor on top of Summit Route’s last pitch. FA Party: Brad Young, Marco Conci, Ryan Townsend. FA Date: January 5, 2024. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
858.88 Nature Valley Granola Bar 5.6 This crack route begins at the same two-bolt start-anchor as Sidewalk in the Sky. Climb the crack above, 40 feet to the summit. Gear: multiple each three to five inches and one six inch piece. FA Party: Marco Conci, Ryan Townsend. FA Date: August 4, 2023. Source(s): Inspection of route from base with Conci and Townsend, October 22, 2023; ascent of route with Kurt Schab and Frank Wleklinski, March 8, 2024.
858.89 Trophic Cascade 5.7 Trophic Cascade is on the southeast side of Pink Giant’s summit block (the Nature Valley Granola Bar crack goes all the way through Pink Giant’s summit block - Trophic Cascade is the same crack on the block’s other side). Create a bottom-belay anchor by extending a rope down from Summit Route’s one-bolt, second pitch, finishing anchor. The 30 foot crack takes gear from small to four inches. Finish at the two-bolt top anchor for Summit Route’s third pitch. FA Party: Kurt Schab, Brad Young, Frank Wleklinski, Trevor Raymond. FA Date: March 8, 2024. Source(s): Part of the first ascent party.
858.92 Little Pink Giant 5.4 Little Pink Giant is located just southwest of Pink Giant (higher on the hillside). It is half the size of Pink Giant, but like it, shares a pink-colored north side. The two Giants are connected by a 70 foot high, multi-facetted, mossy area of rock. Approach Little Pink Giant’s climbing route by walking to its west side. Move up an easy-to-find, class three chimney. The chimney starts to open after 50 feet. Scramble up and left to a bouldery, almost flat area. Two routes, Little Pink Giant and Secondary Summit start here. For Little Pink Giant, climb 15 feet of easy but loose rock to a bolt low on the formation’s east face. The bolt is followed by 10 feet of up and left climbing on a ramp (use three inch gear near the top of the ramp). A second bolt, above the ramp, protects easy class five onto a class three slab. Climb this to Little Pink Giant’s highest point and a two-bolt anchor. Descend by rappel: 55 feet to the start of the class three approach chimney. FA Party: Brad Young, Marco Conci, Bob Walton. FA Date: February 13, 2023. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party. [In.]
858.93 Little Pink Giant - Secondary Summit 5.1 This route reaches Little Pink Giant’s lower-elevation, north summit. Although it is mostly class three and four, the fifth class start moves are very exposed and exciting. It begins in the same place as Little Pink Giant’s 5.4 route. Climb up and right onto a low, rounded pillar before moving across an airy gap, into the chimney between the high and secondary summits (the only protection for these moves is the rope tracking through the soft groove behind the pillar). Walk to the chimney’s highest point. Another 20 feet of class four-then-three leads to the top. Descend by downclimbing the route. FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Roped ascent of the route on February 13, 2023. This was made after seeing what is clearly a human-made cairn on this lower summit from on top of the higher summit. The 5.1 route is the only way to this secondary summit that is even close to “easy” and must be how the cairn-builder(s) got there.
859.31 The Day Before Today 5.1 This route is one of several located on The Rolling Stones.
The Rolling Stones: The Rolling Stones are twin boulders located across the drainage and slightly farther upstream (south) from Jubilation Pinnacle. They are fairly long from south-to-north and vary between 30 to 50 feet in height. The two are separated by a narrow, south-to-north oriented corridor. Reach The Rolling Stones by exiting Juniper Canyon Trail at the third switchback. Walk south up the sub-canyon, staying on its east (west-facing) slope. An open area which includes rock slabs and grassy slopes is across the creek from Jubilation, 150 yards from Juniper Canyon Trail. Continue another 100 yards up-canyon (south) from this point, moving through gaps in the brush to the left (east) boulder’s northeast corner. Continue west below that boulder’s north end to the north end of the corridor between the rocks. Enter the corridor with a few class three moves. Routes here are easy and short to very-short, but they climb fairly steep, incredibly featured rock (described by one climber as “a sea of big lodestones”). Four climbs on the right (west) boulder’s east face are listed left to right (from deeper into the corridor toward its entrance). There are two two-bolt anchors on top of this boulder. Each is shared by two routes. Descend by a 45 foot rappel from the north anchor.
This Route: Start 10 feet right (into the corridor) from the left edge of the west (right) boulder’s east face. Climb up and a little left, 30 feet to the top of the boulder. Walk right to the two-bolt anchor for When I’m Almost Sixty Four (listed next). The only protection on this route is slung knobs. FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook. FA Date: March 26, 2023. Source(s): Ascent of route minutes after its first ascent.
859.32 When I’m Almost Sixty Four 5.2 Begin climbing at the highest point of dirt in the corridor, 15 feet right of The Day Before Tomorrow. Two bolts protect 35 feet of climbing to the top of the boulder and a two-bolt anchor. It is possible to protect the 15 feet to the first bolt using slung knobs or a half inch piece placed between lodestones. FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook, Brad Young. FA Date: March 26, 2023. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
859.33 Norwegian Rock 5.2 Start 15 feet right of When I’m Almost Sixty Four. Climb past three bolts to the top of the boulder. Move a little right to a two-bolt anchor 40 feet from the start. FA Party: Brad Young, John Cook, Kathy Cook. FA Date: March 26, 2023. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
859.34 Eleanor Digby 5.4 * Start at the north end of the corridor. Four bolts lead up, then up and left. Finish at the two-bolt Norwegian Rock anchor, 45 feet from the start. FA Party: Brad Young, John Cook, Kathy Cook. FA Date: March 26, 2023. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
859.331 Pavlov’s Rat 5.3 This is the leftmost route on The Rolling Stones’ east boulder.
The Rolling Stones’ East Boulder: Routes on the left (east) boulder are listed left to right, beginning at its slabby southeast end (the end away from the approach). One east boulder route (the last listed) starts in the corridor.
This Route: The east boulder’s south end includes an easy-to-see, southeast-facing slab. Climb the middle of the slab past two bolts. Finish on top, at a one-bolt anchor 40 feet from the start. FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook, Brad Young. FA Date: May 1, 2023. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
859.332 One is All You Need 5.3 Climb the right edge of the slab starting 20 feet right from Pavlov’s Rat. One bolt protects the route’s crux. Getting-easier climbing then continues to the summit and a two-bolt anchor. Descend by a 45 foot rappel. FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook, Brad Young. FA Date: May 1, 2023. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
859.345 Hickam’s Footle 5.8 * Hickam’s Footle climbs east boulder’s north side. It crosses Ockham’s Hairbrush (listed next) at that route’s fourth bolt (this route’s fifth bolt). Start from the top of a boulder, just below an odd up-and-slightly-right, seam-like feature sprinkled with lodestones. The route’s first two bolts are closely spaced (they protect the crux). Four more bolts lead to the top of the boulder and a two-bolt anchor 45 feet from the start. FA Party: Natalie Blackburn, Brad Young, Joel Primrose, John Cook. FA Date: October 24, 2023. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
859.346 Ockham’s Hairbrush 5.6 ** Start Ockham’s Hairbrush by climbing to and past Eleanor Digby’s first bolt to a bolt on the east boulder’s overhanging west face (this second bolt is almost impossible to see from the ground). Move around a steep, exposed arete, onto the boulder’s north side. Three more bolts protect up-and-left climbing, across Hickam’s Footle, to the top of the boulder and a two-bolt anchor (five lead bolts total in 55 feet of climbing - this route's fourth bolt is the fifth bolt on Hickam’s Footle and its top anchor is six feet left of that route's top anchor). FA Party: Brad Young, Joel Primrose, John Cook, Kathy Cook, Natalie Blackburn. FA Date: May 21, 2023. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
859.4 Colossus - Exploration Route 5.1 * Colossus and its near-neighbor Titan are farther up the same sub-canyon as Jubilation Pinnacle (they are farther south). Colossus is 350 yards south of Juniper Canyon Trail, about twice as far from it as Jubilation Pinnacle. Titan is just southeast (uphill) of Colossus. Of the two, only Colossus is visible from the trail; looking up-canyon, it is left of Jubilation Pinnacle, appearing very large and wide but rounded. Approach these formations as for Jubilation Pinnacle and The Thug (The Thug is listed below). Continue up the east slope of the sub-canyon, past the open, rocky area described in The Thug’s approach (instead of turning uphill there). Four hundred feet of moderate to heavy brush on this side of the canyon obstructs uphill hiking past Colossus’ east side to its shortest, southeast (uphill) side. Begin the climb with 40 feet of class three to a wide, flat area. Another 45 feet of climbing protected by one bolt ends on the summit (the last 30 feet are sustained, very easy class five). There is a two-bolt top anchor. FA Party: Brad Young. FA Date: February 18, 2023. Source(s): Self, the first ascentionist.
859.423 Rocky Rhodes 5.7 A1 * This three-pitch route starts on Colossus’ northeast side. It then winds up and around the formation before finishing on its summit. Begin on a hillside, 300 feet downhill (right/north) from Exploration Route.
Pitch One, 5.4 (85 feet): Climb a prominent up-and-right ramp (it has a noticeable seam at the back). Five bolts protect the pitch. Finish at a two-bolt anchor (this is 30 feet above the two-bolt top anchor for Shadow of the Colossus, listed next).
Pitch Two, 5.5 A1 (65 feet): The up-and-right ramp which circles Colossus thins very notably at the start of this pitch. Stay below it at first, moving right and slightly up to a bolt. Continue right on a ledge another 15 feet to bolt two. Aid using this bolt to the third bolt and then a fixed piton. Free climbing continues on the now wide-again ramp, passing another bolt, two more fixed pitons and, optionally, small to three inch gear. Finish at a spacious belay ledge with a two-bolt anchor.
Pitch Three, 5.7 (95 feet): Six bolts protect a surprisingly sustained slab to Colossus’ summit. Move right along the summit ridge to the two-bolt summit anchor (shared with Exploration Route). FA Party: Marco Conci, Ryan Townsend, Samir Nafez, Gavin Emmons, Cole Ingamells. FA Date: November 11, 2023. Source(s): Text message from Conci regarding the route’s completion, November 13, 2023; phone conversation with Conci with more details, November 15, 2023; ascent of route with Noal Elkins, Marco Conci, Mikayla Tom, December 2, 2023.
859.424 Helios Finish 5.7 This route starts from Rocky Rhodes’ second pitch top anchor. Move right to the route’s first bolt. Continue up and right past four more bolts. The route ends with 50 feet of unprotected but easy climbing in a water streak. Finish at the two-bolt Colossus summit anchor. FA Party: Ryan Townsend, Marco Conci. FA Date: February 11, 2024. Source(s): Text message from Conci on February 11, 2024; ascent of route with Jennifer Wang, April 27, 2024.
859.45 Shadow of the Colossus 5.10b ** This 80 foot route climbs a prominent water streak on Colossus’ north side. The streak is 100 feet down and right from the start of Rocky Rhodes. Seven bolts to a two-bolt anchor (the seventh bolt is to the right of the chute). FA Party: Gavin Emmons, Marco Conci. FA Date: October 14, 2023. Source(s): Text messages about route from Conci, October 14, 2023; further discussion with Conci regarding subsequent ascents and opinions, November 15, 2023; watched ascent of route by Mikayla Tom and Noal Elkins, December 2, 2023.
859.52 False Reality 5.7 This water-chute route is on an east-facing cliff located 250 feet west of the west Rolling Stone. The direct approach from there is steep and very brushy; approach instead under Colossus’ south and west sides. Pass next to a huge leaning flake/block on Colossus’ west side before passing south and then west of a 20 foot high pinnacle (pass between the pinnacle and a slab to its west). Move along the base of a slab (some brush) and then into a meadow. Continue north, levelly, to the end of the meadow and the start of the chute. Four bolts protect climbing to a distinct, crux bulge. Easy climbing above is protected by slung knobs. Finish at a two-bolt anchor on the outside edge of a terrace, 60 feet from the start. FA Party: Marco Conci, Samir Nafez. FA Date: July 9, 2023. Source(s): Discussion about route with Conci via text message, September 2023; ascent of route with Townsend, October 22, 2023.
859.54 Choss Fetish 5.8 Choss Fetish is the wide crack/chimney which starts 20 feet back from False Reality’s top anchor (note the fixed piton bottom belay). Climb past the pin to the bottom of the crack. Sustained offwidth/squeeze chimney climbing for 25 feet eventually widens and becomes lower angle (four to six inch gear and one bolt). Emerge from the chimney and move onto a block. A second bolt, on what was the chimney's left wall, protects moves onto a sub-summit and a two-bolt anchor to the right (south - away from parking). Rappel to the left of the route, 65 feet, back to the start terrace. FA Party: Marco Conci, Brad Young, Ryan Townsend, Samir Nafez. FA Date: October 22, 2023. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
859.6 Titan 5.3 Titan is just uphill (southeast) from Colossus (its summit is 125 feet from Colossus’ summit). Start this route on Titan’s southeast (uphill) side. Scramble 20 feet to the base of the summit massif’s east face. Climb 40 more feet, past one bolt, to the top and a one-bolt anchor. An awkward bulge partway up is the crux. FA Party: Brad Young. FA Date: February 18, 2023. Source(s): Self, the first ascentionist.
860.2 Dominant Dome Class Four This huge formation looms over Cave Pinnacle to its southeast. The formation’s front (west) side is quite tall and, although its back side isn’t tall, that side is guarded by very heavy brush and/or short overhangs. Start climbing in an open, flat area 50 feet south from the start of the route Cave Pinnacle. Move up a faint streak in the middle of the dome’s west side. The climbing becomes low angle after 25 feet. Continue up and left to a more defined but short streak which emerges from the right end of a prominent shoulder of rock. Move up to the shoulder and then to its left end. A short section of steeper rock leads to a broad, class two slab. Walk up and right toward a gap between two mini-pinnacles (the dome’s highest points). The fairly pointed left mini-pinnacle is a sub-summit, the square cut right mini-pinnacle is the true summit. Move through the gap between the summits, onto the back (east) side of the true summit. Climb this to its top, which is 130 feet from the start. There is no summit anchor. Descend by downclimbing and then moving down between the two summits. Continue, class two, to a two-bolt anchor at the west base of the left, pointed, sub-summit (the anchor is a little left from the normal line of ascent). Rappel 90 feet to the start of the climb. FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Solo ascent of route on April 25, 2022.
860.4 The Tyrant 5.6 The Tyrant is a very large, separate pinnacle located 100 feet southeast of Dominant Dome. Three sides of The Tyrant are very steep, very tall and consist of so-so quality rock (the east, south and west sides). The pinnacle’s south and east sides are further guarded by a class four boulder-field in a usually-dry streambed. The Tyrant’s north side is shorter and climbable, but is very difficult to access. Reach it by climbing most of the class four route on Dominant Dome. From a point behind the dome’s right summit mini-pinnacle, walk 80 feet south, slightly up then a little down to the base of The Tyrant’s northeast toe. The climbing starts 10 feet south, along the east side of the toe. Two bolts protect 20 feet of climbing to a flat shoulder of rock. A third bolt on the shoulder acts as a directional for a follower. Walk a few feet south on the shoulder to a crack. Climb this to the summit (one to four inch gear; a five inch piece is also easy to use). A two-bolt anchor allows a 50 foot rappel to the right of the climb’s start point. FA Party: Brad Young. FA Date: May 6, 2022. Source(s): Self, the first ascentionist.
860.6 The Thug 5.7 The Thug is a separate, multi-part pinnacle located 125 feet southeast from The Tyrant (the two are separated by a small, west-flowing drainage). The Thug is the lowest-on-its-hillside of a series of pinnacles and rocks. It has a rounded, fragile-looking spire leaning against its west side and a significant, barely-connected sub-pinnacle to its southwest (uphill). Three sides of The Thug are steep and ugly. A fourth side, to the southeast, allows access to the summit. Although The Thug is listed here because of its proximity to The Tyrant, the two do not share an approach. Get to The Thug instead by exiting Juniper Canyon Trail at its third switchback. Walk south, up the sub-canyon in which Jubilation Pinnacle is located. Continue 150 yards through open areas on the canyon’s east side to a point almost across from Jubilation. The Thug can be seen from halfway through these 150 yards; the leaning, rounded, fragile-looking spire and the climbing route’s start notch particularly stand out. Curve southeast (uphill) from an open, rocky area, aiming for the west side of a 40 foot high, rounded rock. Move left (slightly downhill) and around this rock’s north side (The Thug comes back into view from here). Move uphill, around the south/uphill side of its barely-connected sub-pinnacle, then downhill along that rock’s southeast side. The climb starts in a pronounced notch between the main formation and the sub-pinnacle. Two bolts, one on the sub-pinnacle and one on The Thug protect very loose stemming onto a short, loose pillar. Move up and right past a third bolt onto a thin ridge of rock. Continue on the ridge past three bolts to a flat spot and a seventh bolt. Easier climbing past the route’s eighth and ninth bolts ends on the summit at a two-bolt anchor. Descend by an 80 foot rappel over the pinnacle’s southeast side, reaching the ground northeast (downhill) from the route’s start. FA Party: Brad Young, Marco Conci, Gavin Emmons, Mikayla Tom. FA Date: February 18, 2023. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
871.2 The Big Mossy Class Three The Big Mossy is a huge formation located northeast of Palisade Pinnacle, just north of Juniper Canyon Trail. The tall sides of the pinnacle, those away from the trail, are undercut and unclimbable. In contrast, the formation’s southeast side features a low-angle buttress which allows access to a broad and viewful summit. The base of this buttress is at the trail’s tenth switchback (it turns right). Thirty feet of class three are followed by 15 feet of walking to the pinnacle’s highest point. Descend by downclimbing. FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Solo ascent of route on April 8, 2022.
871.5 Prune Pinnacle - Regular Route 5.4 A climb that gives a whole new meaning to the name “Regular Route.”
Finding Prune Pinnacle: Prune Pinnacle is located just north of the Juniper Canyon Trail, higher on the trail than Yankee and Palisade Pinnacles, but lower than Chaos Crag. It is due south of much larger Teapot Dome (although don’t mistake Prune for the small pinnacle on which is located the route Tea Bag – Tea Bag is between Prune and Teapot). Hiking up the Juniper Canyon Trail, Prune is just north of the sixth switchback above Palisade Pinnacle. Coming down-trail from the Juniper Canyon/Tunnel Trail junction, this is the fourth switchback (the climbing route can be seen well from the switchback).
Approaching Regular Route: Approach by leaving the trail to the west (downhill) and then skirting north across the hillside for 100 feet (some brush and a few small trees). Reach an obvious, deep corridor of rock between Prune Pinnacle and the smaller formation to its right/uphill. The climb starts on the southeast toe of the formation, which makes up the left side of this corridor.
Climbing Regular Route: Begin climbing on the southeast toe of the formation. Move up 15 feet onto a broad shoulder of rock. Walk north along the shoulder to a notch between the main formation and a small lump of rock to the left (gear from small to three inches in a hole and a crack). The route’s first bolt is in the notch (there is a screw link attached to this bolt – consider having the follower use it to back-belay across the next, very loose section). An exposed traverse to and across a somewhat stepped ledge leads into a steep gully/corner. Climb this past a second bolt and past a cluster of small scrub oaks, into a larger notch and the route’s third bolt (consider making a belay here to avoid rope drag). From this notch, climb a short face to a sub-summit. Scramble across a narrow ridge to Prune Pinnacle’s true summit, 120 feet from the start (the top anchor is 10 feet below and on the west side of the true summit). Rappel 80 feet to a point near the start of the climb. FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran. FA Date: 12-31-17. Source(s): Post by John Cook to Mud'nCrud forum, Quest for Mud (Special Edition), February 6, 2018.
881.73 Honest Mistake 5.8 Honest Mistake climbs the fairly wide, north face of one of the larger Tidbits.
The Tidbits: The hillside north of the Slick Pinnacles features several individual pinnacles, groups of pinnacles and rounded sections of cliff. These rocks, The Tidbits, make up a very discontinuous cliff edge (and in spite of the name, some of them are fairly large). This north-facing cliff edge is oriented east to west. The Tidbits have, mostly, short and/or easy uphill (south) sides and taller, steep downhill (north) sides. Significant gaps between Tidbits allow passage from their south (back, uphill) side to their taller, north side.
Approaching The Tidbits: To approach from parking, walk the Juniper Canyon Trail to the fourth stream crossing (remember that the first and second crossings are at and/or within easy sight of parking). Leave the trail to the left (east) after this crossing. Open, uphill hiking to the right (south) of a very large but low rock mass leads to an also-open, southwest-facing slope and then a fairly brush-free section of ridgetop. This section of ridgetop is less than 100 yards from The Tidbit’s north side. It is also easy to approach The Tidbits from The Slick Pinnacles (if already there). The Tidbits’ middle section is 200 feet north of Lower Slick Pinnacle. A mostly brush-free approach can be made from that pinnacle’s uphill side. Routes here are listed from left to right (east to west).
This Route: The upper west end of this large Tidbit is immediately east from the easy-to-find 15 foot high pillar that helps define the route Last But Not Least (described below). By way of further identification, one of the easiest north-to-south passages through The Tidbits begins from the right base of this Tidbit’s north face (at the start of its rightmost climb, La Ultima, which is listed below). The passage extends up a wide gully, along the Tidbit’s west end, to a point very near that pillar. After identifying the Tidbit’s right base, move 100 feet left (east) to the start of Honest Mistake. A first, low bolt protects the route’s crux, up and right along a seam. Continue up and slightly left and then up. The route has seven lead bolts. It ends at a two-bolt anchor a little back from the top, 75 feet from the start (the anchor is shared with Laura’s Lane and Cog In the Confusion; both listed below). Note that the top anchors of all routes on this Tidbit can be accessed by walking around its right end (up the wide gully below the 15 foot high pillar). Class three and some class four (in two places) gives access to a spacious summit. FA Party: John Cook, Brad Young, Marco Conci, Kathy Cook. FA Date: May 19, 2023. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
881.74 Laura’s Lane 5.8 ** Laura’s Lane begins in a slightly concave section of rock, 30 feet right of Honest Mistake. Move up past three bolts to an up and left ramp. Shift left on the ramp to reach bolt four. This bolt, and three more, protect climbing to the top of the cliff (seven lead bolts total). Finish at the shared two-bolt anchor after 75 feet of climbing. FA Party: Laura Valvassori, Marco Conci. FA Date: April 23, 2023. Source(s): Text message from Marco Conci on April 23, 2023; ascent of route with John Cook and Kathy Cook, May 19, 2023.
881.75 Cog In the Confusion 5.8 ** Begin 15 feet right from Laura’s Lane. Climb 80 feet to the shared two-bolt top anchor. Protection consists of seven bolts and slung knobs (especially sling knobs before the first bolt, which is 25 feet up). FA Party: Marco Conci, Samir Nafez, Laura Valvassori. FA Date: May 5, 2023. Source(s): Text from Conci on the day he finished the route; ascent of route with John Cook and Kathy Cook, May 19, 2023.
881.78 La Ultima 5.6 La Ultima climbs the north face of the same Tidbit climbed by Laura’s Lane. It begins from the bottom of the south-to-north passage, 125 feet down from the easy-to-find 15 foot high pillar. Climb the arete-like far right (west) edge of this Tidbit’s north face. Eight bolts protect 90 feet of climbing to a two-bolt anchor below the formation’s highest point. Descend by rappelling or by scrambling off the back side and around. FA Party: David Harden, Marco Conci, Brad Young. FA Date: January 21, 2023. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party. [In.]
881.87 Last But Not Least 5.1 Last But Not Least climbs the western high point of The Tidbits. This route is the one definite exception to the “short uphill side” nature of The Tidbits. The route climbs the uphill side of a pinnacle which is 200 feet north from the north side of Lower Slick Pinnacle. This pinnacle has the second highest summit in The Tidbits and is the highest point in their northwest half. The pinnacle’s uphill (southeast) side is 40 feet high, starting with a 20 foot high, blunt arete (the base of this arete is 20 feet southwest from an easy to spot, separate, thin, 15 foot high pillar). Climb the blunt arete to a flat area. Twenty feet of easy slab leads to the top. There is no protection on the route, but the crux is in the first 10 feet. There is also no summit anchor; descend by downclimbing. FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Solo ascent of route on January 14, 2022.
