Conduit To The Cosmos: finally climbed, and question on anchor replacement

[joe]

Very nice Gavin!
like Brad, it's been on my list forever, but don't have what it takes to rope up for that run out....good on ya!

[F4?]

T-day weekend, provided it's dry, will work well for bolt replacement. 

Let's hope the stork comes earlier in the week.


I have a few of the SS 3.5 x 3/8 suckers and can donate.


2nd pitch of Peregrine. Yes they do needs replacing. The rock on the 1st pitch is 1 hold cleaner.

[Gavin]

Hey all, sorry for the delayed response... I just returned from 3 weeks of vacation in Ecuador but am now back at the Pinns.

Jim: thanks for the message and the go-ahead... I bought some chain lengths and quick links, will paint them soon, and hope to get out to upgrade the 2nd belay station in the next couple of weeks.

Joe: good to hear from you! Yeah, the Conduit run-out sections are non-trivial, but definitely part of the experience! I think the run-out right near the 2nd belay station felt the most squirrely to me because there were a greater abundance of flexing holds there.

Brad: I'm game for heading out to Conduit in the next couple of weeks if that works for you. Let me know.

[joe]

Totally agree Gavin.  I moved very slowly through that section on the 2nd pitch, rock quality deteriorates there and the moves are for real...  Mark Seelos (mittens) totally styled the first pitch.  Awesome climb and got to spray with the first ascentionist, the original badass Jim M, in the lot with BY over beverages after doing the climb...great day!

[Gavin]

The 2nd belay station anchor has been updated - rather than sun-faded webbing, it is now equipped with camo chains and quick links. Brad and I made it up today - and Brad added a bit of chain at the left bolt of the first anchor on the way down. Stay tuned for a full trip report and photos soon! (...As soon as Brad or someone else gives me email directions on how to link to Flickr photos...)