Last Saturday at Spike's Peak, a party told us that they intended to climb Condor Condiment, but someone was rebolting it so they came over instead. That got me curious. There had to be a mudncrud'er! On Tuesday, I took a peek at the forum despite being only half qualified to read here since I'm not a dude. I enjoyed Noal's nice photo report. Then I checked out MP and Ricky Harline's comment got me conflicted. I found myself texting Mr. Mud, "I'm risk averse these days and not sure if I want to knowingly put myself on a runout route." A minute later, after seeing his response, "Understood," I made the decision, "Will go for it..." Yes, I can change my mind that fast; and yes, Mr. Mud has gotten soft.
Chris took no convincing at all. As a matter of fact, he had been interested in it for a long time. While on the drive, it started to look like we might have to rock paper scissors to determine who would win the p1 lead. But then I remembered how I got lost a week ago while jogging back to the car alone with the intention of reaching the car before Chris so I could have time to prepare some food for the drive. And that was on the return of an out and back hike! (He ended up waiting for me at the locked car.) I could very possibly get totally lost on p4 and turn the outing into an overnight epic. Nope, p4 is his! And that settles p1 since we'd be swinging leads.
Chris had the good idea to hike up Condor Gulch trail so we could access the formation hiking south on High Peaks Trail. When the formation came into full view, it matched Brad's topo perfectly. We were able to identify the two streaks. Now, it just needs to grow, or regrow, a small bent pine so it becomes visible. Once we saw the formation and the route, the approach off trail was very easy and obvious to follow. In no time, we were at the start. If in the past, people accidentally got on Condorks after missing this start, there should be no excuse in the future now that the new bolts are easy to spot.
I was glad to be wearing my precision face climbing shoes on the lower part of p1. There is still abundant moss cover that only a small selection of trustworthy crimps are visible, which requires delicate climbing, but they are all solid. I never felt desperate for bolts leading on this climb, whether it was on p1 or on p3 ("10a" variation) where I did not place any gear. I have a tracked max heart rate 107bpm (of the all day climbing) to prove.
The close proximity of bolts 7 and 8 on p1 puzzled me and I skipped one. I later saw the picture of bolt 7 posted on MP and came to understand why. The belay on top of P3 now has the original bolt (in a visibly good shape) and a new bolt, so I doubt anyone would bother placing cams for it in the future. As for the "10a" variation on p3, I feel a need to use double quotes every time I mention it. While we were on the summit of Condor Condiment, Chirs described Mr. Bolt Jangles, our next objective to me, "it's a little harder than the '10a' variation on p3, but easier than p1." I understood exactly what he meant, and later thought it was accurate.
With the new bolts and abundant solid ground on this four pitch climb that leads to a cool summit, I think the route has the right to become one of the classics at Pinnacles. Now we just need Brad to go yell at those cordors lost at Spike's Peaks that they are on the wrong crag to make Condor Crags whole.
P.S. Oh, how ungrateful of me to have forgotten to say thank you to Noal, Marco, and Ryan for the rebolting effort and ASCA for the hardware! Now, let me go find a suit to put on. [
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