Recent Posts

61

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting

« Last post by Marco on April 09, 2025, 11:04:16 AM »

P1 is 5.9. p3 straight up (through the bolt) is 5.8. It's the obvious way to go, so I don't even see the point of having the left 5.7R variation.

I could certainly see P1 being 5.9, I'm very much out of shape though (well more of a round shape). Ryan and Noal also expressed that the "10a" was easier than that.

62

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting

« Last post by burnsbabe on April 09, 2025, 06:39:38 AM »

Nice thread.

Very few climbers there today, but the place was swarming with hikers and parking was completely full on the East Side by some time between 9:00 and 10:00. Spring break.

Elaine and I were going to be down for two days, but I got sick. Now we'll have to find a make up date.

63

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting

« Last post by Brad Young on April 08, 2025, 03:42:08 PM »

Nope, ZOOOM, right over my aged head, mudworm. I missed it but it is now quite obvious. In my defense, I read it on a phone and often such reading doesn't register with me as well?

Yep, that was a tenacious tree.

64

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: MUD 'N CRUD PICTURES THREAD - WEEKLY FAVORITE

« Last post by NOAL on April 08, 2025, 10:06:59 AM »

You must of been holding the stick clip.

Here's a couple of Ryan on Marco and Ryan's new route.

Luckily I think this route just exceeded the 30ft minimum of real climbing.

Yes, it did.  It's a nice route.  Good rock, the difficulty increases the closer you get to the crux, and the crux is distinct.

65

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting

« Last post by mudworm on April 08, 2025, 09:53:32 AM »

did you notice though that the oddly angled pine was no longer there? I watched in sadness over some years as it seemed to wither and then die and finally fall off. I removed it from the most recent version of the topo.

Did I?

Now, it just needs to grow, or regrow, a small bent pine so it becomes visible.

If my hint of the missing small bent pine was too subtle, I wonder if my grade adjustment suggestion was also too subtle.

While we were on the summit of Condor Condiment, Chirs described Mr. Bolt Jangles, our next objective to me, "it's a little harder than the '10a' variation on p3, but easier than p1." I understood exactly what he meant, and later thought it was accurate.

I know upgrading/downgrading is always a triggering discussion. Here is my candid opinion: P1 is 5.9. p3 straight up (through the bolt) is 5.8. It's the obvious way to go, so I don't even see the point of having the left 5.7R variation.

66

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting

« Last post by Chris Henry on April 08, 2025, 06:58:30 AM »

did you notice though that the oddly angled pine was no longer there? I watched in sadness over some years as it seemed to wither and then die and finally fall off. I removed it from the most recent version of the topo.

We definitely discussed the absence of the bent pine tree. I thought maybe it could have referred to the small pine shrub inside the white streak, but more likely the tree was no longer there. I'm not surprised to learn that you are on top of this detail & have already updated the topo!

EDIT: Hey Chris, are you the same Chris I saw a few times in one season climbing a The Smokestack a few years ago? If my memory is correct, it's nice to see that you're still frequenting the High Peaks.

One in the same. You are generous to call my junk show on the smokestack "climbing." If I recall correctly, I started up one route got a little spooked, traversed across the face to the other route making a hideous "Z" with the rope.

But yes - I do love visiting pinnacles, particularly mellow pinnacle-bagging in the high peaks. After condor condiment, we revisited some favorites. The N Finger register provided some evidence of consistent high peaks visitation:

67

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting

« Last post by Brad Young on April 07, 2025, 07:01:03 PM »

Nice thread.

Very few climbers there today, but the place was swarming with hikers and parking was completely full on the East Side by some time between 9:00 and 10:00. Spring break.

I'm glad you liked the topo, mudworm. did you notice though that the oddly angled pine was no longer there? I watched in sadness over some years as it seemed to wither and then die and finally fall off. I removed it from the most recent version of the topo.

EDIT: Hey Chris, are you the same Chris I saw a few times in one season climbing a The Smokestack a few years ago? If my memory is correct, it's nice to see that you're still frequenting the High Peaks.

68

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: MUD 'N CRUD PICTURES THREAD - WEEKLY FAVORITE

« Last post by ryn on April 07, 2025, 05:07:02 PM »

Got a couple shots of Noal on the same route around the last 5.8/5.9 move before it eases into low angle slab. I got a bit worried about how Noal would like the route when he mentioned on the approach he didn't think it was worth bolting 30 ft of climbing that just goes into low angle slab. Luckily I think this route just exceeded the 30ft minimum of real climbing.




Sunday Marco and I climbed Son of Dawn Wall and I was really impressed with Marco's demonstration of confidence and serenity as he lead the p5 chimney.

 

69

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting

« Last post by Marco on April 07, 2025, 03:05:36 PM »

I even skipped the 4th bolt that is a little out right and still felt comfortable.  Having the new bolts now takes out part of the sketch factor so hopefully people will feel a little less stressed out.

I felt uncomfortable belaying for this section. My sketch factor and stress was high until Noal clipped the spooky button head.

Gavin and Brian (with help from Brad and Fletcher on a couple) really put up some nice routes there. 

Every line that Gavin picks turns into a great rock climb.

70

Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: MUD 'N CRUD PICTURES THREAD - WEEKLY FAVORITE

« Last post by Marco on April 07, 2025, 02:38:01 PM »

Wow what a rad looking route! On the Pink Giant I suspect. I bet its got good rock is brushed and well protected. Probably harder than 5.7 but under 5.10a, ideal range for any climber to enjoy.
Perhaps it will get a repeat in the next 5 years. Other than Brad of course because it is under 5.10