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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting
« Last post by NOAL on April 01, 2025, 09:38:37 AM »
Did you weigh close to 300lbs?

Waldo's advice was most likely true.  The button heads on the route  could of come out with an outward pull of body weight.
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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting
« Last post by clink on April 01, 2025, 05:34:27 AM »
Thank you! I once tested one of those old bolts while breaking a foothold.

Waldo said it was best to not lean out while clipped to the anchors.
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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Booty Retrievel Quest
« Last post by clink on April 01, 2025, 05:25:19 AM »
Nice! I hope it at least gets donated to a museum.
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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Booty Retrievel Quest
« Last post by NOAL on March 31, 2025, 02:52:21 PM »
Ah, the pink tri cam at that.  The best one! 

We had some guys with a drone filming us this weekend too.  Really annoying.  It was already hard enough to enforce rules before the cuts but now I imagine impossible.

You must have placed it in the crack at the X part. Hope you get it back.
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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Booty Retrievel Quest
« Last post by Talg on March 31, 2025, 01:26:37 PM »
Imagine the contents of this post being provided at the nearest tavern by a surly man in a coat drinking his sorrows away and berating the barman:

"yesss, I like to place tricams! What of it? A good rack of them lives on my harness no matter what I climb. They get me out of tight spots or through them. And that's just what happened on Coyote Ugly on March 21st! But alas, my partner who has little experience cleaning them left mine behind :sob:.... To make matters worse, some BAP documented this whole ordeal with his drone! Molesting my precious condors. Had there been any loose stones on top of Tiburcio's X I would've made easy work of that aerial pest.
But please, barkeep! Pass along the message that any stout and intrepid fellow that can retrieve my pinky tricam from the route will earn themselves a beverage if they return it to me."
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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting
« Last post by NOAL on March 31, 2025, 10:35:39 AM »
Quote
Re-bolting the entire four pitch route in two days!!??

Having Ryan along was super helpful.  We were able to send him ahead to drill a new anchor bolt and fix a line while we worked on pitch two.  Then we sent him to the summit while we were working on pitch 3,  4/5.

Would love to hear from Waldo any recollections of how they put up the route seeing they were also a party of three.  We were wondering how many days they worked on it and at what point did they just push it to the top.  I'm guessing 3-4 days.  2 days on the first pitch and then one or two for the rest of the route.
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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting
« Last post by Brad Young on March 31, 2025, 10:18:04 AM »
Re-bolting the entire four pitch route in two days!!??

Hard-core.

Those short, 5/16th inch buttonheads were scary the minute they were put in.
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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Re: Condor Condiment Rebolting
« Last post by squiddo on March 31, 2025, 10:01:39 AM »
Nice work. Time to repeat it again for sure.
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Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles / Condor Condiment Rebolting
« Last post by NOAL on March 31, 2025, 09:25:10 AM »
     Rebolting Condor Condiment has been on my to do list for quite a while.  About a year or so ago Marco said he would be up for working on it with me.  My busy work schedule was back to normal and Marco was recovering from a finger injury so we both had time to start on the project the first weekend in March.  About 1/2 of the bolts for the route are on the first pitch.  There are 11 total.   Our goal for the first day of work was to replace all 11 and we were successful!  We were able to reuse about half of the holes.  In some cases it was not possible to reuse the original hole due to it being drilled at an extreme angle, deep cratering behind the hanger, or chunks of rock that came out when the bolt was extracted.

    This weekend the weather and our schedules allowed us to return to finish the rest of the route.  Our friend Ryan joined us on this trip.  Ryan has worked on some new routes with Marco but this was his first time rebolting.  Having a third person really enabled us to get the all of the work done on Saturday.  I am super grateful for all of Ryan's and Marco's hard work.  These two guys have a super positive attitude and are hard workers who do excellent work.  We all worked hard ,had a lot of laughs, and even got to do some climbing.  It was a really enjoyable and fun day!

Here's some photos from Saturday.  There's a few in there that I took but most of them were taken by Ryan.

Here we are at the base of the route.  We probably got started a little before 10.


Marco starting the first pitch


Marco starting 2nd pitch

Marco drilling new anchor bolt for Pitch 2


Noal drilling first bolt on pitch 2 while Marco is drilling new anchor bolt.  Note the backpack.  The backpack was heavy and it was comical to watch whoever got the chore to climb with it on.  Like having a midget on your back.  I had it for the first two pitches and then Marco had the pleasure of having it for the next two.   :lol:



Marco and Noal replacing the three bolts on the top of Pitch two.  We were able to reuse two of the holes for these bolts.  There's a lot of talk online how the rock quality on this route is not good.  IMO this section is the only part of the route that has poor rock quality but it is protected really well and the bolts are in good rock. If you are a Pinnacles climber most of the holds on every pitch that you need to use are pretty obvious.  All three of us were able to climb the route without pulling anything off.  O.K. that's not entirely true I had a foot hold crumble in the loose section becasue I was wearing the pack and weighed about 300lbs.



Here's Ryan drilling the bolt before the 3rd pitch anchor


We finished up work and all made it to the summit just as the sun disappeared and hiked back to the West Side parking in the dark.

Here's some shots of the old hardware that was removed and a one of the button heads before it got pulled.  The button heads are the really short compression bolts.  They came out super easy.




Much thanks to John Cook for letting us borrow some of his gear and fronting us some bolts to get pitch 1 done while we were waiting for an ASCA resupply.  And of course BIG thanks to Greg Barnes at ASCA for sending us hardware, patch material, drill bits etc.  Greg rules.  If you enjoy having the new bolts on the route make a donation to the ASCA if you can.

Thanks Marco and Ryan!  I really enjoyed climbing and working with both of you!  Hope to have more fun adventures with you in the future.
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Day Four:



Today’s walk promises to be the last of the open, low desert for a while (it ends at the start of Aravaipa Canyon, said to be one of the prettiest hikes in Arizona). We begin from the campground, directly onto paved Aravaipa Road (it’s pronounced by locals: “era-vipe-ah”). We walked along this for two miles:










The next “trail” section is two miles of lightly-used dirt roads on state property:










Brandenberg Peak is visible the whole day. The hike will end under its south side:




Antelope Peak from yesterday:




Eventually we leave the old roads and enter a wash. It’s a pretty narrow wash, but it was also clearly used for driving at one time:










Temperatures climb:







The Grand Enchantment Trail follows an old road up this wash and then out of it. The old road then crosses several sub-washes as it works up to a shoulder of Brandenberg Peak. And maybe a better phrase is faint remnants of an ancient road, since whatever was here (in the 1940s or 50s??) is long, long gone now.

Here’s the first exit from the wash onto the ancient road - there’s a five foot(!!) difference in elevation now between the bottom of the wash and the remnant of road bed:







At least these scars of old roads make for brush-free passages:







The girls find water puddles just about anywhere. They then get wet and (why?) try to shake off all the water:




In and out of washes, all with massively eroded old remnants of road:













Lots of old ranching equipment near Carrico Spring tell us that someone, some time, tried to make this cattle country. It’s hard to understand though how a person could make a living in such marginal conditions while spending money on huge steel water-traps, piping and road construction (and obviously, eventually someone was not able to make a living - it's all abandoned now):













More semi roads in and out of washes:




This large tortoise shell is now completely hollow:




We’re soon able to see the last of the old road, where it climbs steeply onto a shoulder of Brandenberg:







Looking back down, over the ascent wash:




Now on the highest ridge of the hike:










What seems like a rare “built” section of Grand Enchantment Trail followed. This linked the ridge to the small wash below it:







Big cliffs lined the southwest side of the peak:




A rare and really horrible incident occurred while the four of us were making our way down the section of trail. Digby had the worst cholla incident I’ve ever seen. As happens once in a while, she got a big clump stuck on her leg. But before Jon or I could get to her, she’d bitten it to try to get it off and now had a table grape-size clump of very spiny cholla imbedded inside her mouth, under her tongue and in her lips. Jon and I spent more than 20 minutes holding and fighting her while I tweezered the shit out spine by goddamn spine.

None of us enjoyed this and for obvious reasons we have no photos to share.

The built trail led to a very pleasant, easy-walking wash:










And this led shortly to Aravaipa Road:










The G.E.T. then passes up this road, getting into increasingly beautiful country for an additional three miles:













Both of us humans were captivated by this paving-block section of road:







The girls had one chance to get into the creek:







Soon, Vicki came up on us on her drive to the end of the road and the trailhead. Both girls had had it with the hot-on-the-feet dirt road by this point and accepted a ride immediately when offered:




   


We passed under this rock formation, seemingly untouched and waiting for a climber with Pinnacles or Pinnacles-like experience to do its first ascent:




The road, and this trip, ended then at the Aravaipa Canyon Trailhead. The next 12 miles of “trail” are walking the distance up that canyon, along a wonderful creek, between massive cliffs; again, reputedly one of the prettiest hikes in the state. This is a hike that is so popular that entry is by a very strictly enforced permit system - 20 entries from the east and 30 from the west each day. And while we had a permit, it was for February, and not March, meant for the trip that we cut short when I got whacked when a hold broke in Joshua Tree:
















Here’s the official BLM web site for Aravaipa Canyon(with example photos):

https://www.blm.gov/visit/aravaipa-canyon-wilderness

So, for next year: Aravaipa Canyon here we come.
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