MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mungeclimber on December 07, 2005, 11:32:14 PM
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The Groove- Anchor bolts need replacement. I think there may be a bolt or two on the route as well, and I distinctly remember that the only decent piece of gear I had both and down the route was the .75 camalot i got in a pocket near ground level.
They should be camou'd anchors though as the route is right on the trail.
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If it's the shittiest route in the park (Holloweenie really takes the prize...trust me), then why replace the bolts? I say let it keep on crumbling into dust.
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Have you done The Groove? It rates up there with the first pitch of Herchel Berchel.
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Nope, I haven't had the pleasure yet, but Brad mentioned it wasn't the greatest pitch. So the moss holds the rock together?
I remember the 1st pitch of Power Tools being like that. Patches of moss had been removed. One miss-step and that be it.
What the heck, replace the bolts....
...but Holloweenie is still the loosest route IMO
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That's the first pitch of Herchel. Moss and mouse excrement that is excreted right before the raptor chews it up in that area. Nasty.
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I thought the 1st two pitches of Herchel were quite nice.
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you're sick
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I'd like to or see the bolts on the 5.7 Saint Val on Condor crags replaced. The rock is decent and the top out is great.
Can I borrow some ones drill and pry bar?
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Theron Moses was kind enough to cut me some tuning forks.
You can borrow those while I'm in Utah. Beats carrying a crowbar up there.
And the bolt kit, but you gotta supply you're own bolts.
Pick em up at Lord and Sons in San Jose. Call ahead and see if they have em in stock.
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The spinner on Broken Arrow. I may be tempted to lead that f**ker if that gets replaced.
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Get some sac Uber! Tighten that sucker on lead. I'll loan you a monkey wrench.
While that ones being replaced, I'd like to replace the bolts on Plague as well.
Maybe Sunday?
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You will not be replacing any bolts this weekend. You will get yer ass in the ocean and DIVE.
If I cannot climb you cannot climb. That is the New Mandate.
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get real
I'm going to choke my chicken because no one is going to pinns this weekend?
BRAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Let's climb at Pinns. Salathe. Check the bolt.
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Too late, it's checked. There's only one. Bad weather Saturday, plus two of the cutest (maybe the cutest) girls in the world means I'm staying home to be a dad. (And work on the book on the computer). Vic ain't too bad either. Come on up to Table? Or to ski? Salsa's B & B is always open.
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Hey Munge...there is always the gym...HAAHAAA! :lol:
Maybe Sunday if the diving doesn't happen.
At least you don't have to slog out to the Hand now.
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Get some sac Uber! Tighten that sucker on lead. I'll loan you a monkey wrench.
While that ones being replaced, I'd like to replace the bolts on Plague as well.
Pffffffffft. Tell me to get some sac after you stop A0-ing most of your "leads". Have you seen that bolt? The hanger is spinning because the freaking bolt is like 2" out of the rock.
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I lead Broken Arrow last month or so and the bolts did not look to bad. They are no tthe best considering that it was rap bolted but not real bad either. I think they will hold a fall. Think of it as inspiration.
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"to bad" is the operative words there my friend
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Yep, so true. Nice line though. Had it been put up on lead it would have recieved 3 stars and listed as the best 10 on Discovery Wall one of the best in Bear Gulch.
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I TRed Broken Arrow yesterday to check the bolts. Ya, I'm a weak sauce for not leading it. :roll:
The issue with the "spinning bolt" is'n that it's spinning, but that it's taken several falls and has bent ever so slightly (bad placement?).
Is it going to pull? Not hardly.
Mr Mud, is the 10d crux going off of small holds and reching out left to something small on the arete? I wasn't sure if I did the 11b or 10d. I think the 10d.
How hard is it to pull the 3/8s bolts?
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"to bad" is the operative words there my friend
correction for grammer "too bad"
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The 10b crux for me has been getting up to the corner where there is a no hands rest. It is a bit thin there and I tend to move up and right. From there it goes up and left to escape or straight up for the direct.
If you tr Broken Arrow, tr Here comes the Judge just to the right. It is suprisingly fun climbing with a somewhat devious crux. At the crux it is easy to escape onto Broken Arrow but not easy to escape back.
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bump for 411 to add to Mucci's thread