MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Everywhere Else => Topic started by: Jim on November 05, 2018, 06:34:04 PM
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Excellent rock, excellent views, excellent partner!
Luck of the draw gave me the two 5.8 cruxes. And Brad got the two classic 5.7 cruxes.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1940/44824789445_29e2dc8bba_c.jpg)
Route starts up the left of the two dark water streaks.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4852/44828194145_f9ab6d363d_c.jpg)
Another beautiful Sierra summit (a great way to cap the season after getting Red Kaweah, Middle Pal, Sill, Polemonium, Mt Magee)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4880/45013858394_1727e1e5cb_c.jpg)
Two very happy climbers.
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Excellent rock, excellent views, excellent partner!
Luck of the draw gave me the two 5.8 cruxes. And Brad got the two classic 5.7 cruxes.
Two very happy climbers.
Sweet!
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Here's a close-up of the whole route, starting in the left streak:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4807/43925340610_a1ff46f6aa_b.jpg)
And here's the route description:
Starr Struck
Starr Struck 5.8 *** This route climbs a prominent water streak on Mount Starr King’s southwest side (it’s actually two streaks in its lowest 250 feet). The streak is visible from as much as half a mile away, it ends at the bottom of the peak’s standard descent.
Gear: Quickdraws, slings and six to eight pieces from one-quarter to two inches. One three inch cam could be used at one belay, but is optional (see Pitch 5, below).
Pitch 1 (110 feet, 5.7) Start on top of a six-foot high flake at the base of the left part of the streak. Committing moves lead to a thin but solid left-facing flake (gear). Continue up and a little right onto a headwall and the route’s first bolt. Move up and left, passing a small hole (more gear). Two more bolts protect easier climbing to a two-bolt anchor at a stance.
Pitch 2 (105 feet, 5.8 ) Continue up the left streak past five bolts to a two bolt anchor and a hanging belay. The fifth bolt protects 5.8 moves over a headwall (the route’s first crux).
Pitch 3 (110 feet, 5.5) Continue climbing on remarkable holes and scoops past four bolts and then, very near the end of the pitch, gear. Two bolts provide a belay at a nice stance.
Pitch 4 (110 feet, 5.8 ) The streak continues easy as it narrows. One bolt 30 feet up protects moves to lower-angle climbing. Pass a second bolt. Reach a third bolt which protects moves into a steeper, thin part of the streak, and the route’s second crux. One more bolt protects lower-angle climbing to a two-bolt anchor. Note that retreating from the top of this pitch is easy with a single 70 meter rope, but that no easy, single-rope retreat is possible higher.
Pitch 5 (215 feet, 5.2) Move up and right from the belay 20 feet to a thin water streak and very featured rock. Continue straight up, past bolts at 45 and 110 feet. Reach the right side of a huge ledge 200 feet from the start (this ledge is 50 feet from right to left, inclined up to the left and slopes noticeably inward). Move to the left end of the ledge, where a one-bolt anchor can be supplemented with gear (the best piece would be a three-inch cam, but this is the only place on the route where that gear would be used; smaller cams work adequately here).
Pitch 6 (225 feet, 5.4) Move up and a little right toward a fairly faint, black streak (not the same as the thin, very prominent, grey-colored streak 10 to 15 feet to its left). Very easy climbing leads to a bolt 90 feet from the start. The bolt protects a slight bulge. Continue higher, now left of another, faint, black streak. Two more protection bolts are found at 125 and 185 feet. Finish at a small ledge and a two-bolt anchor directly below the left end of an obvious, white roof.
Pitch 7 (230 feet, 5.0) Climb straight up from the anchor. Pass one bolt 70 feet up. Belay from gear in the left-most of several left-facing corner/flakes (find it 60 feet up and right of, and across a slab from, the obvious, large pine).
Pitch 8 (120 feet, Class Four) Continue straight up across overlapping flakes (gear). Aim for a point 110 feet above the belay where it is easy to move up and right, over one last overlap, onto easy ground. Four hundred feet of class two and three lead from the end of this pitch to Mount Starr King’s summit.
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Sweet!
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That looks nice
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And to clarify, I led the crux pitches on later trips, after Jim led their first ascents (yes, luck of the draw that he got to lead them first). Obviously I wouldn't claim to have climbed the route unless I had led at least one of the cruxes :o
The 5.8 ratings are mine (strangely enough he agreed with them :P ;D ). Both cruxes are relatively short and are well protected.
I posted these photos after one of our trips late last year, but they're worth putting up again. Here's the first pitch headwall:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4829/45147661444_14fb7fec90_c.jpg)
A strange placement that I think would have held a fall (saved placing a bolt!):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4854/45018104994_04611bc58b_b.jpg)
Looking at the streak while rappelling down:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1948/43925342490_e0a39e2ae1_b.jpg)
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Perfect Totem placement!
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Perfect Totem placement!
You mean other than the fact that that's not a Totem? :P ::)
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Meanwhile that wack-nut oldest of mine did Mount Whitney in a day today (related to this thread because she had dinner with Jim and Wendy on the way down last evening and those are Jim's crampons she's wearing):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4813/44830568865_c746a8c392_c.jpg)
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Meanwhile that wack-nut oldest of mine did Mount Whitney in a day today
;D Would be a nice touch instead of your given name on the front of the next Pinnacles guide. ;D
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Very cool
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WIAD is proud!
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WIAD is proud!
I wonder if Whitney is proud of Whitney in a day. Today.
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And here's the route description:
...drooling...
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Them Crampons are sacred if they were worn by Jim!
Nice route! maybe next year.
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lot of brush at the base, I just noticed. What's the approach beta?
Is a third ascent still highly coveted? Asking for a friend.
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Starrk Naked ascent? Still coveted? I'm asking for Munge.
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lot of brush at the base, I just noticed. What's the approach beta?
Is a third ascent still highly coveted? Asking for a friend.
Now there's a boy who's spent some time in the mountains. Yeah, 5.96 miles I think is what Jim measured by way of the approach. And 200 yards of that is just shit brush. The last 200 yards to the granite base of the domes.
Tell your "friend" (we didn't think that was possible, but are glad it is so) that the climbing is well worth the approach (certainly an easier approach than Snake Dike).
I drew a map that shows what I think is the easiest approach. I'll get it up on Flickr and post it here.
And what's with the "third ascent" thing?
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I notice that on the map I wrote 100 yards of brush. I formed an impression last time I was in there that it was 200 yards. Lets go with the bigger number ::)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4829/45788856831_dcd7888d2b_b.jpg)
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Starrk Naked ascent? Still coveted? I'm asking for Munge.
ssssshhhhhh
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I notice that on the map I wrote 100 yards of brush. I formed an impression last time I was in there that it was 200 yards. Lets got with the bigger number ::)
Thank you!!!!!!! I'm so going out there to do this now! no, for real. I've been looking to Starr King and this gives me a new fun way to hit that goal.
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How are we supposed to climb this without a proper topo?
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How are we supposed to climb this without a proper topo?
Didn't you kinda already cover that:
"Starrk Naked ascent."
Have fun (and I'm really glad I won't be there to see it).
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I needed the topo to make the photos modest. See if we can find it tommorow. 4:30am alarm.
Geoff and Caleb are referring to the trip as the 3&1/2 man tour.
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I needed the topo to make the photos modest. See if we can find it tommorow. 4:30am alarm.
Geoff and Caleb are referring to the trip as the 3&1/2 man tour.
So you figured you got half a man between the three of you? :idea: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :lol: :arf:
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Freaking beauty climb!
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Freaking beauty climb!
How long does it take 3 dudes with half a man between them to do the route?
I heard 17 hours from start to finish :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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As they say, the Opera ain't over until the fat dude pukes all over the last rap anchor.
;D
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Full moon accent (clothed) would be nice.
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As they say, the Opera ain't over until the fat dude pukes all over the last rap anchor.
;D
:puke: :puke: :puke:
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Didn't you kinda already cover that:
"Starrk Naked ascent."
Have fun (and I'm really glad I won't be there to see it).
How about the first naked winter ascent?
Brad, Jim - great work!
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There is this section of the route where there are these 2.5 to 4 inch wide miniature moguls about a foot or so apart from each other. A ladder in the granite!
Even the 5.4, 5.0 and 4th class pitches were quality. The first four pitches are superb!
The off trail portion of the approach/descent we took sucks balls, especially with headlamps on the return. Our water bottles were icing up the last hour and a half. Fortunately the marsh, a half mile before the truck, was frozen over.
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I take it Clink this was a clothed accent?
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Without a wide angle lens it wasn't worth going buff. We talked about taking our pants off and rolling up our boxers for a Brad impersonation summit shot, but we were running out of daylight.
Geoff still refers to Jim as Gandalf, the wizard. On the climb we speculated what/why Brad and Gandalf ...
Too much fun, too much pain, so beautiful!
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I take it you added about 20 new bolts?
Right?
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The route is bolted for Goldilocks, just right. Bring 7 nuts, 8 cams from micro to 3 inch and a 10 ft and 12 ft of webbing in case the rap anchor tat needs replacing. Would be a gem to do with the boys in a half a dozen years from now, in early September.
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Caleb asked me to post a few of the photos he took from their trip (I thought I had either him or Clink talked into learning the process themselves, but, sigh, not yet...).
This looks like Geoff following the second crux:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4870/45870634731_371461907c_c.jpg)
They must have found a blank spot in the summit register where people signing in in 2008 hadn't filled in the pages:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4818/45870632761_6e5e174118_c.jpg)
Summit of Mount Starr King, in November!:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1907/45146318844_410b5985d0_c.jpg)
I half expected to hear that they'd woken up in their camp in Yosemite Valley that morning and decided on more coffee instead. Nope. Old? Check. Out of shape? Maybe check. Tougher than hell. Check and double check.
Glad you guys pulled it off!
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Oh, and this one of crossing Illilouette Creek (I assume on the way in early in the morning):
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1972/45870770221_d06352c10e_c.jpg)
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I would love to say something snarky; but I’ve got nothing right now. Absolutely beautiful route. Should have been called 3 Starr King! Clink saying it’s bolted just right... hmmm. I recall him on the 5.4 with a rope above him that more resembled a piano wire. I guess I do have a little snark left ;) I wish there was more time on the summit to soak in the incredible views. Beautiful job Brad and Jim. Instant classic!
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Yeah, you kept trying to pull me off balance as I climbed like a 92lb ballerina. You are so jealous. The route did feel like a dance. Caleb, you would look good climbing in a tutu.
Truth be told, without Caleb, we likely would have settled that second pot of coffee at camp. Our original plan was to check out Parkline Slab, which can be done at a later date. It didn't occur to me to consider this option until Munge's post. I was laughing at his comment, "is a third ascent still highly coveted? Asking for a friend." then the idea of doing Starr Struck dropped into my noggin.
Geoff and Caleb have some history with Starr King. 28? years ago they skied in on a winter attempt.
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Great job!!
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I remember being told a winter acent was the thing to do way back when.
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^^^
OK, enough of this thread.
I just had a fantastic three days at the other place that we all love, the last two with J.C. and K.C.
I'm pretty much into Pinnacles season now. I even talked with Jim a few minutes ago (apparently a.k.a. Gandalf in some climber's discussions) about finishing a project he started down there in 1985! Let's go Jim ::)
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^^^
OK, enough of this thread.
I just had a fantastic three days at the other place that we all love, the last two with J.C. and K.C.
The last two days were fun and the weather was perfect! Should be a great season, but the Hills are calling our name for next week.
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Pinnacles!!!
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Chuck Carlson and I just made the third ascent on October 19, 2019.
We started the approach around 6:30 am. A mile or so from the trail head, Mono Meadow trail turned into a swamp. Since it was still dark, we both fell in before we knew it. The water was up to our calves. So we did the rest of approach with "Cold Feet".
Compare with the swamp, fighting through 200 yards of the manzanitas to reach the bottom of the climb wasn't too bad.
I started the first pitch around 11 am, we swapped leads, climbed 8 fantastic pitches in 4 hours.
Walking up to the summit, recording the ascent in the summit log, rappelling and down climbing through the gully took us 2 hours. We start to hike back around 5 pm. It turned dark again around 6:30 pm, then we got lost, had to battle through more manzanitas to get back to the Mono Meadow trail.
Then the swamp again, this time was worse, Chuck's headlamp wasn't bright enough, so he stepped in the water first. He went "Oh well, it doesn't matter now" and started walk through it. Mean while I refused to give in, chose to walk through a log to avoid the swamp, all of sudden fell face in first...I was soaked from head to toes, after this worst swamp diving, it took us sometime to navigate through the cold muddy water to find the trail again.
Luckily we only had a mile to go at that point, we hiked up hill non stop, shivering in icy cold clothes and shoes...Finally got back to the car at 10:30 pm.
The climb was absolutely 5 stars, as good as Snake Dike if not better. The swamp part was hellish for sure, but we now have stories to tell.
I will post some photos soon.
Thank you for reading the trip report.
Cheers,
Jennifer
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...mean while I refused to give in, chose to walk through a log to avoid the swamp, all of sudden fell face in first...
I humbly apologize for laughing out loud.
But I guess if you're tough enough to handle that swamp, some loud laughter that you probably couldn't even hear won't bother you.
(BTW, every time I've been past that swamp, it's been passible on logs - what a wet winter!)
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Yes, I told Chuck, this unusual year made the swamp impossible to avoid.
Also, the moment I fell in, I was worried about my cell phone instead of me getting soaked. Once I fished out my cell phone and realized it is till working, I was quite relieved. What's wrong with me?
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LOL, oh no!
Looking forward to pics.
Sounds like something I should climb.
F4?
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Also, the moment I fell in, I was worried about my cell phone instead of me getting soaked. Once I fished out my cell phone and realized it is till working, I was quite relieved. What's wrong with me?
Did you want that in list or spreadsheet format? :lol:
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Did you want that in list or spreadsheet format? :lol:
^^^
Oh you are such a turd.
And now I'm laughing again.
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Did you want that in list or spreadsheet format? :lol:
:-[
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I humbly apologize for laughing out loud.
Same :lol:
Sounds like a full value day
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:-[
I prefer mine in a spreadsheet :out: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
Mr Mud got me good about my OCD tendencies at PCAD (I needed some burn cream) :lol:
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Crossing the creek on the way in:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48939775486_91ff2cb73e_c.jpg)
ET and I:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48939971437_4ec1837c81_c.jpg)
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Running to Starr Struck:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48939226683_983e4ff429_c.jpg)
First move:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48939777301_688996fdd3_c.jpg)
First placement:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48939228693_5f60a2127b_c.jpg)
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At top of the pitch 1:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48939967607_4c746f2c75_c.jpg)
Belaying Chuck on pitch 2:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48939778791_5198e8dba1_c.jpg)
Pitch 4 (As you can see, Chuck skipped the fourth bolt, what a bad ass!):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48939781611_da3dddef0b_c.jpg)
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Sorting gear at top of the pitch 8:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48939968452_7afb394b09_c.jpg)
Summit Log:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48939783816_53a96748fd_c.jpg)
Third Rappel, Can you see the hiker on the other dome?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48939970817_56438c28ba_c.jpg)
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Nice shots!
It makes me want to go climb the thing ;)
Although I don't think I'd skip any bolts.
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Two more:
Marching to the climb:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48939962672_f962bae163_c.jpg)
The war between me and manzanitas:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48939232778_b3661860e0_c.jpg)
All photos were taken by Chuck Carlson, Thank you Chuck!
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Awesome!
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I forgot to mention: on pitch 5, I missed the first bolt, when i finally found a bolt, I heard Chuck shouting down there "just past the middle marker on the rope", then I realized I was already at the second bolt, at 110 feet, totally didn't see the first one. ;)
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^^^
Maybe too much mud in your eye to see the bolts? >:D
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^^^
Maybe too much mud in your eye to see the bolts? >:D
Because it was a easy and beautiful pitch, so I only enjoyed climbing the good rock, but forgot about looking for bolts. :P
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Pitch 3 (110 feet, 5.5) Continue climbing on remarkable holes and scoops past four bolts and then, very near the end of the pitch, gear. Two bolts provide a belay at a nice stance.
I call this fabulous pitch "The Cat Walk Pitch" - you basically walk up on those "remarkable holes and scoops" in a single line.
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Beauty pics! Thanks for sharing :)
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Great photos! Thanks for sharing
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Well there's a new one.
I'm sitting here working on texts for various climbing documents and…
a young couple Duncan and Shanna who climb up here on Sonora Pass quite a bit are “live” texting me from partway up Starr Struck. Complete with some really great photos. They’re absolutely loving the route and said “thank you” for putting it up. Jim took a friend up it on Tuesday and Duncan and Shanna are doing it with friends in two teams of two.
So it's getting some traffic and I'm thinking I should go repeat it myself....
Maybe with Katie or Tricia some day?
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I’d definitely go in there. Never been.
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I’d definitely go in there. Never been.
Next Summer? In a day or backpack in?
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Other friends of mine did the route last Tuesday. Glad to see this guy back in action!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51494127906_84aa674444_c.jpg)
Such clean rock (both photos by Bart):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51495050755_d94d7fde47_c.jpg)
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nice photos
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Next Summer? In a day or backpack in?
Either, just can't do 'IAD' without having miles under the belt in the previous 4 weeks.
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Joel Primrose, Chuck Carlson and I climbed it last year on September 26, 2020. (fourth ascent?). When Chuck and I did the third ascent in 2019, we did it as a day trip. Last year, we backpacked in, camped next to "ET", saw the most beautiful sunset. I'd still love to go back again.
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I'd still love to go back again.
Yes, this time with a saw 8)
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We did bring saws. But the baby bear took them. ;)
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Great memories of that route with Caleb and Geoff. Nice pics!
It's worth the approach, which is saying a lot.
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Covid emphatic elbow bump
Mud or Mudworm, can we get an emoji for that?
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Good stories and great photos!
Brad, are you planning to submit Starr Struck to MtnProj? I'd think more people will appreciate that!
Not sure if it's possible to get an objective assessment considering... but I'll ask anyway. If one can only do one route on Starr King, which one, between Starr Struck and West Face of Mount Starr King (https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108178106/west-face-of-mount-starr-king), should be picked?
Covid emphatic elbow bump
Mud or Mudworm, can we get an emoji for that?
Probably not. Mud has elbow tendonitis.
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/ETMFtGFWAAEzPEo?format=jpg&name=medium)
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In a pure climbing sense, I think Starr Struck is the best of the five routes I've done on Starr King (and West Face is one of those five).
West Face has a much longer history though and is also a fine route.
Don't forget though about the descent route. It's 5.2 and also historic, and fun and reaches the summit (I free soloed it up and then down).
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Thanks for your objective opinion, Brad!
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https://photos.app.goo.gl/hMK4UMvZH8ruE7Mh6
(Edited to embed the image)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/m2HjtNO-HwYx1ahYyj5nU-osRNCB1z7Rf4m-2QCEH1fXHvF-GaCnqdq9nAEi0oZm5AQ0jWtLg-knpKQXuuCrBUFEKgLKdm7QPy9VsHbmVLi3x5J7fIniGWBEx2qElokX0NWQLXa24w=w600)
Live posting from Starr Struck. Now, that has to be a first, right? Yesterday, I told Mr. Mud I’d live text Brad for a laugh, but why not up the game? Here we are,
two mudncruders - Chris Henry and mudworm - topping out on Starr Struck after 2 hrs 40 mins. It’s living up to its reputation. We are having a blast. Thank you, Brad and Jim. Oh, zero shwacking to get here from the Mono Meadows trailhead. Whoohoo!
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Wow, I'd never have pictured Mudworm as a Mount Starr King type! Nicely done.
I clicked on the link and, as far as I can tell, it shows just one photo of someone leading pitch one? Am I missing some of them?
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Now you know, I’m not any type!
Yes, you are missing something. Pretty sure that was the head wall on pitch two. It took me almost the whole route to upload a few photos, type my live posting, and then actually post because I was constantly in action. :)
We are camping on the summit, as planned. Watched sunset. Pretty rad.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sBZzQvHR9CQ5bAWf6
(Edited to embed the image)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I4n47Vh2A_AsAPl19CYqPhE5u-AaSNlen2EQy4S169yplKracxUDc6tq-kucGjRQEMgNhPmoBomxf3_BgEtiefnxpPStDc07SV7EQSeYzvRFcfgcwAeNHLF0Jc7DlqKB_6HCe2v5lw=w600)
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Cool apocalyptic sunset.
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Now you know, I’m not any type!
Yes, you are missing something. Pretty sure that was the head wall on pitch two. It took me almost the whole route to upload a few photos, type my live posting, and then actually post because I was constantly in action. :)
We are camping on the summit, as planned. Watched sunset. Pretty rad.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sBZzQvHR9CQ5bAWf6
Man, kids these days! Sounds like you made the very most of the weekend.
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https://photos.app.goo.gl/swvx5jALHAkyU7GXA
(Edited to embed the image)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Y2jrgkycAuo3d65l6qFPcdCFTWOyUp22ilBJZdXVK0HNojdpmhHVvjmw_Yhsn_zYtac7snNsd1RpbP0zNX4G7MelbhXhOOdqrz8SWc6g113va7Xknq7HGl61-qStH8YkR67pBwUeAgI=w600)
The sunrise from behind Mount Clark.
The weekend is not over just yet. I’m live posting from West Face. We are doing fix and follow and today is my fix, so I have time to goof around.
Brad, you were being humble. The rock/route quality of West Face can not compare with Starr Struck. Ok, it does have its history going for it. Also it has a bit more adventurous and alpine feel to it if that’s what one goes after.
Starr Struck is really like Snake Dike, only without the crowd.
P.S. I just finished leading Pitch 4 of West Face by way of the 10a face. We went off the description on MtnProj, which was a copy and paste of the “ modern beta from mtnyoung on supertopo”. Brad, I have an issue with your usage of word “well” as in “Three more well spaced bolts protect climbing”. When I hear “well”, I think of happy well-being; here, 20-35 feet apart with a possibility of hitting ledges below does not give me that warm fussy feeling. I kept my cool and channeled my cats and got through it. Only brought the Starr Struck rack, so with natural anchors, I really had to space out my gear and forego slings at places. Full value. 5.8R above me. Hmm…
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^^^
That shot of the sun coming up behind Mount Clark is 10/10. When you can you should post it here, and not just by way of a link.
Sorry you misread the phrase "well-spaced" bolts. But "well-spaced" does have a pretty distinct meaning and it's not the same as pleasantly spaced. Are those bolts still old, rusty quarter inchers like they were when I did the route? How did the rest of my description work?
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Sorry you misread the phrase "well-spaced" bolts. But "well-spaced" does have a pretty distinct meaning and it's not the same as pleasantly spaced. Are those bolts still old, rusty quarter inchers like they were when. I did the route? How did the rest of my description work?
I can't quite decide if my reading comprehension deficiency this time was actually blessing in disguise or not. Not sure if I had correctly interpreted the phrase "well-spaced", I would have gone that way. Can't say I was blindsided by the runout nature of that pitch variation because I did read, before our ascent, an MP comment specifically calling it 5.10aR, but I still did not expect the wide spacing down lower with a potential ledge fall or the 30'+ spacing between the 3rd and 4th bolts. To be honest, I think I did know what you meant by calling it "well-spaced", but I twisted my mind to misinterpret it just so that I would not be intimidated by it. It all worked out.
The scarce bolts on the route -- 2 belay bolts on the top of Pitch 1 and 4 on Pitch 4 10a variation -- are all in good shape, the result of the 2012 bolt replacement effort (http://"http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1850876/Bolt-replacement-Mt-Starr-King").
I was a bit disappointed in myself that the route took us way longer than I had expected before hand. Mind you, Starr Struck took us 2 hrs 40 minutes (Chris leading all pitches with me following on microtraxions), but West Face took us 6hrs 45 mins bottom to top. That said, an MP comment mentioned 11 hours on the climb, so maybe I shouldn't be too hard on myself. Chris followed the route on microtraxions (as in the "fix and follow (http://"https://www.climbing.com/skills/advanced-techniques-follow-on-toprope-solo/")" system) at a normal speed, so the slow down was all mine. I don't recall going ridiculously off route (like I did on Pitch 9 of My Favorite Things), but I did have to consult with your description in the middle of my lead a few times due to my doubts about the direction to go despite having studied the description at each belay. That said, most of the time sink probably happened in those slab sections (esp. on Pitch 4) when I would really study the blank, often poorly protected, slab face to devise a plan before executing moves. It's funny how time sinks when one is just "thinking".
The description of Pitches 1-4 did match up, for the most part, with what we followed, but I was sure that I did not set up my belay stations higher up according to your description because my stops were purely dictated by what 2-3 pieces of gear I had left on my harness and where the least hollow cracks could be found when I was getting close to the end of our 70m rope. Both Pitches 6 and 7 were almost full rope length for me. I must have picked a wrong direction to head up on Pitch 7 before topping out. With the exfoliating rocks -- flakes, corners, roofs -- everywhere, it appears that many climbers found route finding challenging on West Face, a common theme in folks' MP comments, but I doubt you can really do much better in your description. So, thank you for your description, Brad. In the end, it did get us to the top safely whether or not I followed it correctly.
Chris took this photo of me leading out onto the 5.10a slab variation of Pitch 4 protected by the "well spaced" bolts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KjSAxTgO8T4W7mOJNbK05WZosrZz4d_GiPTVfdZidA7rixzaW_PWvDx-2Z7AXB8zuNwFPC4xPgwmDGpeurt5kxjF6GAnFH14KE-pNI_7llYZ5t1RvQBfv3WZVqOwGyL3t3hVDBb7Fw0=w600)
P.S. my recap of the weekend that I shared with others (mostly non-climbers):
This past weekend was my first backpacking climbing trip in 16 years. The destination was a hidden gem in the Sierra -- Mount Starr King. Had the dome/area to ourselves for the entire weekend even though the dome offers great scenery and excellent climbing. We drove out of the Bay Area on Saturday morning, backpacked in with water, dropped our pack at the saddle after going up and over the middle dome to avoid bushwhacking, and blasted up a new -- established in 2018 -- excellent climb called "Starr Struck" (5.8 8 pitches). We then carried our packs back up to the summit via "SE Face" (5.2, 3 pitches) just in time to watch the gorgeous sunset, almost apocalyptic due to the haze. Sunday morning, I got to witness a dramatic sunrise from behind Mount Clark from our camp on the summit. We went down and around the dome and climbed a historic old-school route called "West Face" (5.10a R variation, 7 pitches). The sun set during our long hike out and we made it back to the Bay Area early Monday morning, tired but content.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51714475702_50a4bf3e07_z.jpg)
Geoff Norris on Starr Struck. So good!
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VnAYnS82BijbBckOYCzQmeqSAQSokm57Gw0EODAfzYzafbikhFcxJgmS8gI1rx9G-xQMjatX-NLqYsqIM8lqIsIERDfPT7OCBNJ9F6PQnIDLWXd33ymp2_0Zj6WkGEXhIGBJnp5lamQ9uhMxKZM994c35CI-dI243vDYUHs5SVUFtc3fcBCL5674_CTbHYa53Hnr-NU4K4WJfbxmZk6_BVpI0ryCDSJs8kAwwAstBcLlCPgum25rLzNkpq8szIOM0DeJehu9DiIXpGvoptwY3CqG6Apk31DLoFLMEEa9R5Yka7QXhGNkjfcxT2jqCS15kWme3F9nL794zp8gmgFJqAQxYREyaCcUp9NJIB-TDxgMrCwaeSbPLsUl6UlmKghfc0f1k9XhROGxXoYjzjU37umZlj6Z0vl6tf1VVJTE4SUo84uigTYT8Hu5UYLsQcsSHoHVRxGvzcy4jwZ7cOjrd9ieLfOwTZMQN5RVKVUB1IUMd-44qzA0V-UdKBlUS5d782OoTunM9vz9EsNkqPP_hGSWImjJKIb612Kwe9DFsSMGyppW-auIZecf9oks0ra1TlxF1MEP9ZNR-IEvrNSeVCirI6FYJdtGGUbwMOhNABXXgZe8EIJqd9RiGVyIz6NXaaDAJ-Jlv0COF5ry5beQKtVvszeEvorhap7bAH2_r7i7NN0vJqA4E3HObttYnAm3FHedb4waVew7CyYG8dmMZty_=w1107-h637-no?authuser=0)
Geoff Norris on Starr Struck. So good!
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nice shot
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Thanks, glad you can see it.
I'm going to go back and try to get some of pics posted. I should have been posting up. If you all don't mind. Figure it will lessen the amount of time I will have to spend in climber's purgatory.
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^^^
I can see that shot!!!
But about lessened time... can infinity be reduced?
Keep up the good work and we'll see what we can work out.
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^^^Haha, I just read your post Brad.
You know that when the snake disappears in the grass, it's not gone, but keeps eating things silently and in the future will appear again, only bigger. Might save that one for when things go derogatory on a friend.
I modified the pic of Geoff and it is back. Ended up using Flicker, instead of Google f'ng Photo's
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51715572318_384f937cc3_z.jpg)
More pleasure
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Nice
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Love the exposure!
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Plaisir climbing!
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Brought back fond memories. Great route, great setting!
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It seems like people are liking this route.
And to think, I got to climb it with a legend. A true, consensus legend. Fun time indeed.
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Well truth is if you do a route with that guy it