MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mynameismud on December 19, 2016, 11:49:49 AM
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Felt good to do some "climbing" at the Pins. Was a typical day out with Noal. We found the coldest mossiest rock we could.
Noal, I think it is coldest over there.
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/12/19/20161219113219-0ba5ca3b-me.jpg)
Yep, This looks to be about right
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/12/19/20161219110828-6dc070e0-me.jpg)
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/12/19/20161219110751-90826bf7-me.jpg)
Plenty of Moss
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/12/19/20161219110719-96c1c3ea-me.jpg)
Nice View
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/12/19/20161219110704-6af08d51-me.jpg)
This works
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/12/19/20161219111359-6c8b0027-me.jpg)
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/12/19/20161219114215-18f7cd63-me.jpg)
End of the day
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2016/12/19/20161219114224-ffc8ed1f-me.jpg)
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Nice. I wish I could have joined you guys... But I was just returning from a month in India, so no luck.
Were you working on a route at Voyeur, or elsewhere? Any details on the line yet?
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Up above Voyeur. Slab route with a two somewhat vertical sections. It is probably around 5.9. I will not be around this weekend but I think I will be around the 31st. If Noal is free we can probably finish it then if the weather is cooperative.
Had a new experience. A guy down on the trail asked if he could take my picture. We were yelling since the climb is a fair distance from the trail. After he asked to take my picture ( I had answered sure ) he yelled " Can you wave for the camera? ". At the moment I was bolting. So it went something like this.
tap, tap, tap,
Him, Hello....
tap, tap
Me, Hello...
tap, tap, tap
Him, What are you climbing?
tap, tap, tap,
Me, New Route,
tap, tap, tap.
Him, Can I take your picture?
tap, tap, tap
Me, sure....
tap, tap, tap
Him, Can you wave for the camera?
tap, tap, tap
Me, let go of drill, wave left are back and forth,
Him, Thank you
Me, Your Welcome
tap, tap, tap
The previous bolt I had this conversation
tap, tap, tap
girl from trail, WWWAAAHHHOOOOoooooo
tap, tap, tap,
Me, WWWAAAHHHOOOOoooooo
girl from trail, SEND IT!!
Me, tap, tap, tap
( me thinking... Ahh, not very quickly )
tap, tap, tap
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You two are a hardy team. Cool pics.
Welcome back Mud and Gavin.
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also of note for the conversation listed below. The entire time I was facing the wall with my nose 12" from the rock not really in a position where I could move very easily.
Thanks, Clink Was hoping to run into some of your but we were pretty much first in last out on Sunday
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Glad my cousin and I weren't the only ones up there enjoying yesterday's beautiful blue sky. Based off that last pic it looks like you outlasted us by about half an hour.
At least our hands didn't sweat much... :D
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Glad my cousin and I weren't the only ones up there enjoying yesterday's beautiful blue sky. Based off that last pic it looks like you outlasted us by about half an hour.
What did you climb up there?
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Thanks, Clink Was hoping to run into some of your but we were pretty much first in last out on Sunday
We would have loved to see you guys but I kinda had a feeling what you'd be doing :lol: :yesnod:
clink was kinda busy Sunday far far away in the Forgotten Valley.
We all went up to Nanny Goat to finish Hoof It but it had puddles on the holds and was dripping and or running with water.
It's in a water chute, it rained 1/2 an inch about 48 hours previous, it was a hard frost overnight all the nights leading up to Sunday, the daytime high was around 50, the route gets limited sun.
I think you can guess what happened on that one.
It was a bit of a crowd - me, Brad, 3 Dawsons, T girl and clink.
Brad helped me knock the dust off my aid climbing technique on Axe Pinnacle - cool climb.
I also finally know exactly where Dorf...er I mean Dwarf Pinnacle is.
By the way - are you sporting a new doo nelkins?
The gang, sans Brad and me ran up a new line on Coffee Can and I went back with team Young today to climb that. We also climbed an old pinnacle near there and checked out another old Roper climb (I plan to go back and climb it and rebolt).
The old pinnacle we did has no bolts but it did have a more than likely anthropomorphic stack o rocks on top. It was a scary boulder problem that is likely to get harder since I could hear a critical hand hold cracking as I moved through the crux. I thought it was 5.8 and the new climb on Coffee Can a grade easier at 5.7.
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By the way - are you sporting a new doo nelkins?
No. I just washed it. Now I have a bigger bald spot.
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To pay, or not to pay.
Those trail demons are awfully talkative.
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No. I just washed it. Now I have a bigger bald spot.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
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What did you climb up there?
Crud & Mud. Pics, etc. forthcoming.
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ran up a new line on Coffee Can
Steve was flying up it. He drilled 3 of the 4 bolts. Fun route to find and it was warm in the sun, mostly moss free. Perfectly Pinns day. Any pics JC?
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Glad my cousin and I weren't the only ones up there enjoying yesterday's beautiful blue sky. Based off that last pic it looks like you outlasted us by about half an hour.
At least our hands didn't sweat much... :D
So true. I did all my climbing in my down jacket.
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So true. I did all my climbing in my down jacket.
I took 5 girls up to the Northeast Frontier - full sun all day and most of us climbed in tank tops. Even got treated to two condors when we first arrived.
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So true. I did all my climbing in my down jacket.
That does't say much since you wear your down jacket even in the summer. And from what I heard, there was not much climbing, but a lot of standing in place doing "tap, tap, tap." :D
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I took 5 girls up to the Northeast Frontier - full sun all day and most of us climbed in tank tops. Even got treated to two condors when we first arrived.
Crud & Mud. Pics, etc. forthcoming.
Nice to know the new routes are getting some love.
Here's mud in your eye Shane. Did you climb Chasam?
I'm trying harder to give the old routes some love too.
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I took 5 girls up to the Northeast Frontier - full sun all day and most of us climbed in tank tops. Even got treated to two condors when we first arrived.
You almost had company-we were discussing going with a group to the Northwest Frontier or doing a 2 man grinder on Crud & Mud (2 man grinder obviously won out).
We were plenty warm in the sun when we started on the East Face and Just Chute Me, but as soon as we hit the shade the temp dropped probably 20 degrees. There was still frost on the ground when we left. Thank goodness there was just a very light breeze.
Here's mud in your eye Shane. Did you climb Chasam?
Negative. We ran out of daylight before we were able to move over to Pioneer Pinnacle. But we both climbed everything on Crud & Mud except Solotero Pina Especial and Light and Shade. 8)
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The V is missing
tap, tap, tap is better than puff, puff, puff
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You almost had company-we were discussing going with a group to the Northwest Frontier or doing a 2 man grinder on Crud & Mud (2 man grinder obviously won out).
We were plenty warm in the sun when we started on the East Face and Just Chute Me, but as soon as we hit the shade the temp dropped probably 20 degrees. There was still frost on the ground when we left. Thank goodness there was just a very light breeze.
Negative. We ran out of daylight before we were able to move over to Pioneer Pinnacle. But we both climbed everything on Crud & Mud except Solotero Pina Especial and Light and Shade. 8)
Seriously? That is a lot of routes. 13 to be exact - a baker's dozen - although the only potential for anything approaching baking would have been the starting 2 and possibly Bottoms Up. What did you think?
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Yeah, it was a pretty full value day. Started East Side at 10 am, and decided to not start Solotero Pina Especial at 4:38 (sunset was at 4:51, and though we both had headlamps neither of us were particularly interested in pushing that hard to finish the formation).
Mud Diamond's "unlikely-looking bulge" was great. Here's Mud in Your Eye and Top of the Mudding were all great-both steep and sustained at their grade for most of the route (and the rock in both so cold that we lost all feeling in our hands halfway up both lines). We called shenanigan's on the moves to Mudster's Ball's first bolt and TR'd the sucker (we weren't super big fans of any of the knobs leading to it and both thought it might deserve an R). The couple harder moves off the ground on Bathing Beauty made the rest of the romp up the arete all the more rewarding. Squeaky Clean Mud was fully dripping, so it became a stemmer's delight with a slight grade bump and the mantra "Don't pull on anything wet, don't step on anything wet, don't fall on anything wet!"
As an added bonus across the board all the routes were remarkably clean and solid for being so new. Not sure how much of that was scouting, and how much was cleaning, but either way we were both appreciative of efforts on both fronts. The only major bit of exfoliation we got all day was on Bathing Beauty as I tried to move around the arete and a frisbee-sized piece of veneer came off under my foot. Fortunately I had 3 other good points of contact, so I didn't follow it.
TL;DR-fun day, thanks for all the work. :)
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/HSKillometer/IMG_7373_zpsl6sxrnce.jpg)
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/HSKillometer/IMG_7400_zpsm9gr2iqy.jpg)
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/HSKillometer/IMG_7429_zpsrxgsq3ja.jpg)
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/HSKillometer/IMG_7452_zpsp1h4e2qq.jpg)
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/HSKillometer/IMG_7453_zpsx94r7uby.jpg)
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/HSKillometer/IMG_7465_zps9dehajc1.jpg)
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Mud Diamond
Here's Mud in Your Eye
Top of the Mudding
Mudster's Ball's
Bathing Beauty
Squeaky Clean Mud
As an added bonus across the board all the routes were remarkably clean and solid for being so new. Not sure how much of that was scouting, and how much was cleaning, but either way we were both appreciative of efforts on both fronts.
thanks for all the work. :)
Looks like you hit some choice routes. Mud Diamond, Squeaky and Here's MIYE were all really clean to begin with and such a pleasure to work on. Too bad you didn't get the full enjoyment from either because of the cold and or wet but it sounds like you still had a good time. I was surprised to hear you guys even went out there after all that rain and the shady locations of so many of the routes. It truly was the summer of mud.
As to Mudster's - I wanted it to be a total departure from Here's MIYE so it's no wonder you didn't try it cold and wet.
I'm guessing Summer of Mud was absolutely soaking and it is dirty and mossy - too low angle to even attempt to clean it up - just a fun romp.
Speaking of that - I don't quite recognize where your buddy is in the second picture. Did you guys go up that grassy section of chute that is up from the upper part of Summer of Mud? I see your stuff down below which looks like it might be near (a little uphill) from the start of Bathing beauty. Funny how stuff can look so different from different angles.
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Steve was flying up it. He drilled 3 of the 4 bolts. Fun route to find and it was warm in the sun, mostly moss free. Perfectly Pinns day. Any pics JC?
First glimpse of lasher drilling bolt 3
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50263483506_eb36c4acd5_z.jpg)
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You two are a hardy team. Cool pics.
Agreed...and funnier than Laurel and Hardy :lol: :yesnod:
NOAL and I need to do a route and call it Burly and Girly's Excellent Adventure
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interesting drop zone start
Drop zone? Did someone deposit something at the base?
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Drop zone? Did someone deposit something at the base?
It's not a full body fall like Maniac's but it was still a slightly scary lean over for the first bolt - you can't just walk over and clip it.
Hoffa may be down there :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin:
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Drop zone? Did someone deposit something at the base?
yes, it takes a mind like yours to see the humor.
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yes, it takes a mind like yours to see the humor.
Most or all of the holds are probably down there too from the free attempts.
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Looks like you hit some choice routes. Mud Diamond, Squeaky and Here's MIYE were all really clean to begin with and such a pleasure to work on. Too bad you didn't get the full enjoyment from either because of the cold and or wet but it sounds like you still had a good time. I was surprised to hear you guys even went out there after all that rain and the shady locations of so many of the routes. It truly was the summer of mud.
As to Mudster's - I wanted it to be a total departure from Here's MIYE so it's no wonder you didn't try it cold and wet.
I'm guessing Summer of Mud was absolutely soaking and it is dirty and mossy - too low angle to even attempt to clean it up - just a fun romp.
Speaking of that - I don't quite recognize where your buddy is in the second picture. Did you guys go up that grassy section of chute that is up from the upper part of Summer of Mud? I see your stuff down below which looks like it might be near (a little uphill) from the start of Bathing beauty. Funny how stuff can look so different from different angles.
We knew what we were in for, we dressed for it, and we're "roll with it" kinda guys, so I was all a ball. If anything the conditions just added more to the story of the day.
Given the choice between the two, I'm glad you chose to better protect HMIYE. It was a much more fun route and I'm glad I was able to lead it properly. And Mudster's ran fine as a TR off HMIYE's anchor with it's (Mudster's) top bolt as a directional.
Summer of Mud was nice and mellow, warm(ish) catching some low angle sun, UNTIL I hit the slot in the headwall where the angle picks up a bit and it became completely soggy and crummy. :tongue:
My cousin's scrambling up the chute that leads to East Side's first bolt. Just Chute Me lies 2 troughs behind him.
Full tally for the day, we both climbed all your new lines, plus East Side, full break down (iirc): me-9 leads, 2 seconds, 2 TRs, cousin-5 leads, 6 seconds, 2 TRs (his all in approach shoes! :eek:). 6 months of JC's work=1 day of lefh's climbing. ;)
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We knew what we were in for, we dressed for it, and we're "roll with it" kinda guys, so it was all a ball. If anything the conditions just added more to the story of the day.
Given the choice between the two, I'm glad you chose to better protect HMIYE. It was a much more fun route and I'm glad I was able to lead it properly. And Mudster's ran fine as a TR off HMIYE's anchor with it's (Mudster's) top bolt as a directional.
Summer of Mud was nice and mellow, warm(ish) catching some low angle sun, UNTIL I hit the slot in the headwall where the angle picks up a bit and it became completely soggy and crummy. :tongue:
My cousin's scrambling up the chute that leads to East Side's first bolt. Just Chute Me lies 2 troughs behind him.
Full tally for the day, we both climbed all your new lines, plus East Side, full break down (iirc): me-9 leads, 2 seconds, 2 TRs, cousin-5 leads, 6 seconds, 2 TRs (his all in approach shoes! :eek:). 6 months of JC's work=1 day of lefh's climbing. ;)
Thanks for clearing that question up and for the feedback - looking at it now makes total sense, especially since he is carrying the rope.
Man I bet Call of the Crud and Summer of Mud were kinda hairy with all that slickee. SOM is actually really fun through that part when it is dry. I really liked the way it turned out albeit easy.
How did you guys like Bottoms Up? No one else has led that but me.
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That explains why there wasn't a nice line to follow through the lichen to the summit. :P
The traverse with the ground dropping out from underneath was cool, as were the moves past the second bolt and up into the saddle (and, unlike Mudster's, I liked the slingable knob there 8)). Past the rap anchor I ended up working way out to the right along a lower angle shelf and some big knobs before moving up to the ring bolt, but for the downclimb I stayed right in line with the rope down the arete. You can see the features I followed well in this pic:
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/HSKillometer/570aa6b5-8b03-4468-98e9-c7adcc3335ca_zpsjfsxderx.jpg)
Overall it was fun, but the ringbolt+belayed downclimb seemed a bit overcomplicated relative to the rest of the climb, and almost seemed to break it up into two too-short pitches. Though I understand the logic of not wanting to put a rap anchor right over a rap anchor.
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That explains why there wasn't a nice line to follow through the lichen to the summit. :P
The traverse with the ground dropping out from underneath was cool, as were the moves past the second bolt and up into the saddle (and, unlike Mudster's, I liked the slingable knob there 8)). Past the rap anchor I ended up working way out to the right along a lower angle shelf and some big knobs before moving up to the ring bolt, but for the downclimb I stayed right in line with the rope down the arete. You can see the features I followed well in this pic:
Overall it was fun, but the ringbolt+belayed downclimb seemed a bit overcomplicated relative to the rest of the climb, and almost seemed to break it up into two too-short pitches. Though I understand the logic of not wanting to put a rap anchor right over a rap anchor.
I climbed slightly left of the anchor straight up the arete along what I perceived as the line of least resistance. Do you think we should alter the description? Brad hasn't climbed it yet. Going way out right sounds scary and exposed - sounds like you found another way. I agree that it does feel like a short upper pitch since you get a topping out feeling in the notch. I did a single ring for belayed downclimb because it felt so easy and you're right - another rap anchor seemed excessive. I was just going to end it at the anchor but clink wanted me to go all the way to the summit. He hasn't climbed it either ::)
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My way was definitely exposed and licheny, but not too loose, and only 3rdish class, and by "way out right" I really only meant 20' or so; I headed up around the two big lodestones (one right over the other) to the left of the trough that splits the face in the last pic I posted.
Re: the description, it seems fine to me. Anyone with the sense of adventure to get out to Crud & Mud to climb a route that isn't in the book, with the important info already listed (ringbolt+downclimb), will probably have the wherewithal to pick their own line the rest of the way. And it's not like you're in a tenuous position when you have to choose-you can spend all day lounging in the saddle deciding which way looks best.
And, despite the convolutions that resulted, I'm glad clink pressured you to run it to the top. It's a cool little summit, and the more I think about it the more I like that it presents a little different challenge from most other routes.
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Lot of sun forecast for Pinns this weekend.
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Mid week as well for some.
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Mid week as well for some.
The jealousy rages that some have been climbing during this sunny weather while I am finishing up outside work.
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The jealousy rages that some have been climbing during this sunny weather while I am finishing up outside work.
Don't be envious.
We got rained out today and it looks like the same for tomorrow.
We drove all the way to Soledad without a drop.
As soon as we headed into the Pinns it was raining lightly and light showers continued to move in...in waves...
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We got rained out today and it looks like the same for tomorrow.
blasphemy
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blasphemy
Don't worry Mud - it won't put you or NOAL off. :biggrin:
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5 AM at the Pioneer.
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Pinnacles New Years Eve. Weather was mostly good, fairly warm with a short period of rain and hail. Went to finish the slab project but it was still fairly wet. So we moved on to new line.
The approach
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2017/01/02/20170102173303-f519a8b8-me.jpg)
still wet
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2017/01/02/20170102173633-5ff810ea-me.jpg)
New Line
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2017/01/02/20170102173728-abed802d-me.jpg)
Chalk it up
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2017/01/02/20170102174036-e2864043-me.jpg)
Watch that hold
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2017/01/02/20170102173359-0a8c50e2-me.jpg)
This tree needs to smile
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2017/01/02/20170102173442-6ca8f4ab-me.jpg)
Cobbles
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2017/01/02/20170102173433-fc2f65d8-me.jpg)
Hike out in the dark
(http://www.mudncrud.com/MudGallery/_data/i/upload/2017/01/02/20170102173342-118d6e7d-me.jpg)
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Can you access the new route from above?
Just curious.
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Great pics and humor. Thanks for sharing.
That stinger looks pretty big - say hello to my little friend! :yikes:
Brutal stemming stance on that bolt - makes my back hurt!!
Very interesting matrix with those cobbles.
Nice work.
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Can you access the new route from above?
Just curious.
You can access from above.
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Thanks for relinquishing this ever so concise narrative, plus pics :)
Cool!
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Is this right next to a large formation, in a gully that represents the descent to the base of one of the worst climbs at Pinnacles?
If it is, you're on my proj braj.
TOE bag? sik!
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Nope different gully.
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Munge, where exactly is this project?
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Munge, where exactly is this project?
likely Balconies.
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likely Balconies.
nope
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nope
Okay, I'll play.
Resurrection or Sew What Needles?
Those are the other two locations with the worst climbs I can think of.
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Res
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Res
Where, "exactly"? Hey come now, I do not even live in the state. I am harmless!
8)
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Res...
...ervoir.
Looks like hard crimping if I'm thinking of the correct line.
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lol, yes, reservoir too.
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The Return of the Munge? Mudster or Myth?
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I am harmless!
Uh huh. This is why I did an auto-forfeit on the wrasslin' match :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin:
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...I am harmless!
Never mistake old, broken and feeble with harmless....
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The Return of the Munge? Mudster or Myth?
Pretty sure Myth, but I'm hitting PG this evening with Kalen if you want to join up for some training session?
When do you want to go skiing? I'm taking an avi 1 AIARE course this year.
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...when do you want to go skiing?
That's it. With some (small, tiny bit of) reluctance I vote that we kick him off the site for using totally inappropriate language.
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Pretty sure Myth, but I'm hitting PG this evening with Kalen if you want to join up for some training session?
When do you want to go skiing? I'm taking an avi 1 AIARE course this year.
Wow - talk about myth! clink on skis?! :lol:
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Ski this.
It should be wet enough any time this week.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dPpJsWFc3Cj0YVAeV1cvPdX2VDmR1hXIym7xGGOAWfK2FaJChh9YzGogjFgcppgfL8tRmSpGwfj7Wg3_puCgH8mQJeTibE76IsH-42PYHtdi3yyGxn34QZncgiUtb5ugO71rjQ_KOYPz7-t7VL4Tlq=w700-h525-no?authuser=0)
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Ski this.
Alright, he mentioned the wrong word too. I want him booted from the site.
Anyone else?
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The Moss run actually might be "runnable"!
See, I didn't say skeezin!
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Table Mountain pump-fest on Friday. Any of you BAPs want to come up for a shirts off, fun in the sun for our one-day weather reprieve? Two newly established routes to be tried (both are 5.10d or 5.11a and one or two stars). The new 5.8 there on the right of Senior Wall (Senioritis) is getting traffic too and is shaping up nicely.
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shirts off, fun in the sun
I do not understand...
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I do not understand...
It's a way to help the mold grow more profusely. But, alas, in your case that is not necessary....
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Inviting the BAPs auto-excludes us.
Plus I need around 2 dozen Pinns routes to appropriately participate in the upcoming grand celebration.
I also only know of a few members here that climb sans shirts.
Have fun tanning your moobs.
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yep, a bunch of middle aged guys with shirts off is not fun. I feel ill.
Highs in the mid 30's today
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I feel ill.
Here is something to make you feel better.
Having fun on Satyr last Thursday :biggrin:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dJGNXnnlFcWUVKrvEz5hK0BeKO0QLi7m7odrPmTcRVZZHnoBtZU8Do9cFtVcl7MCCjbfMbGF4m7zfxI7fo17cPn6X7BotY5uDDbk9VNN4E5M4_XfmgvIol0E5K4J5g30TxkLYrtcq55cwooE_AWISc=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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TR'ing the scooped face looks like fun. Nice local, dig the orange
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Highs in the mid 30's today.
Warm and sunny here:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5619/32049013986_cea160f1bc_c.jpg)
In fact it's warm enough that the dogs are getting an odd type of dandruff:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/472/32049010616_1d4b0cfed8_c.jpg)
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yep, looks rather balmy
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Table Mountain pump-fest on Friday. Any of you BAPs want to come up for a shirts off, fun in the sun for our one-day weather reprieve?
Evidence that DEMANDS banishment!
Bring your wetsuit for a Pinns day. The forecast is awfully wet for the pre-closure dates.