MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Brad Young on December 11, 2016, 08:58:41 PM
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In about 2004 I was working on The Gargoyle and Peidras Bonitas Cliff portion of the guidebook. These areas are toward the end of the East Side in the book (they're all on pages 142 - 144).
While out there I naturally looked for routes which had never been known or reported. I found the Valle de Baile stuff during my searching. Waldo later gave me the first ascent information for these climbs - and put me in touch with Holmgren for more details. While looking around then, I also saw a separate formation up on the ridge northeast of The Gargoyle (J.C. took this photo of it yesterday, against the skyline, looking over The Gargoyle):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/345/31473332011_25268921f7_c.jpg)
I checked the pinnacle out then - I walked around it looking and third classed up onto an "obvious start ledge" to look around more. I even walked up to the summit just to the north - one can see down onto the larger formation's summit from there. There was no sign of any climbing activity. Nothing. I mentally marked the pinnacle though as an obvious, separate formation that had, apparently, never been summited. I told myself that someday I'd go back.
Well, yesterday was wet. So instead of climbing, the Inn Crowd went for a hike out the park fenceline from the West Side entrance. This brought it to the Piedras Bonitas Cliff area and I just had to check the pinnacle out again. Ron Skelton and I even moved up onto the obvious start ledge, and felt out some of the handholds. The rock seemed really good. John and Kathy checked out a summit just north of us too, and they took these photos from there:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/558/31551885766_94a941e3e8_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5448/31589386475_ea7b948842_c.jpg)
I took photos also; from the ridge northwest of the formation:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/354/31589425725_bf8cf49845_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/201/30747946354_d11541a94d_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5521/30747936984_395e015a92_c.jpg)
It rained again last night. So things were wet this morning. But the sun was out and I thought the rock would dry some. I decided to attempt this summit, roped solo.
The ascent was easy; class three led up to the ledge, I moved 20 feet south and, near a weakness in the severe overhang, I placed a protection bolt (I belayed myself for this - the rock was so wet that I slung a stout manzanita on the other side of the pinnacle and tied in with the rope in case I slipped off while standing and drilling). A few steep, bouldery 5.8 moves over 35 feet of exposure then led to easy fifth class and the summit, 15 more feet away.
Naturally the first thing I did when I got there was look around. It's a fairly spacious and flat summit. I saw no immediate sign of any human presence: no bolts, no cairn, no anything. I looked more. Something about the rocks six feet north of where I topped out struck me. They weren't stacked, but they didn't look quite right either. I moved over for a look:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/716/31473335191_4877083deb_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/569/30747916354_d9faea62dc_c.jpg)
And then around to look closer, and, damn!!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/692/30747917694_d46d9ee5f7_c.jpg)
I wasn't the first! A rusty old coffee can was well hidden under a rock:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/618/30779554073_349efefdce_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/572/30779557333_c7e692c753_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/78/31473354131_a45738b36b_c.jpg)
Of course after my discovery, the next step was to open it. The questions were suddenly urgent: who'd been here before and when? How had they summited?
But the years had taken a toll on the can. The top was completely immobile with rust. I couldn't get the lid off! I tried several times, and with some force. But the lid was stuck completely fast; it wouldn't budge.
So I drilled the summit anchor (in bullet hard rock!). And I took a selfie to prove to my daughters that I am indeed modern:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/366/31589417385_a6d8c7e1e1_c.jpg)
And then I carefully tucked the can into my jacket for the rappel. I hiked it out. It's in the garage with my gear now. I'll open it in the morning in full light. It's weird though; it feels like all it contains is a rock. Maybe the size of a lemon. Something was rattling around inside the can every time I moved it. The can looked in relatively good shape in that it doesn't have any holes; but that's a lot of rust. Anyone have a guess how old it is? I'd say 1960s, anyway.
So will we learn anything when I open the can tomorrow (or break it trying)? Tune in to this same Bat station and we'll all find out.
P.S. Climberdude was out there too today, about 400 yards away, doing his own ground-up, roped solo first ascent (he's the one who suggested the name Coffee Can Pinnacle - which is the one that will stick unless there's some writing in the can giving it another name). Here are photos of Mark, low on his new route (on the bottom right of the light-colored slab in the low left corner of the photo):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/670/30747942894_98e4b6f295_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5796/30747940934_9022c6300d_c.jpg)
See you all tomorrow, here again?
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Well...isn't that special (and on a Sunday no less) :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
Kathy got this picture of me hiking out yesterday.
The legendary scowl - now even more pronounced with whiskers.
Not to mention that without the world's most digusting tennis visor there is plenty of available advertising space.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50262823193_05a222eb33_w.jpg)
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Well...isn't that special (and on a Sunday no less) :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
Kathy got this picture of me hiking out yesterday.
The legendary scowl - now even more pronounced with whiskers.
Not to mention that without the world's most digusting tennis visor there is plenty of available advertising space.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50262823193_05a222eb33_w.jpg)
Great thread highjack!
Now I'm going to go to bed laughing (which you'll have to explain to Vicki).
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Cool historical find.
Curious, why the anchor to rap from after finding the route had been done?
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Cool Brad.
Curious, why the anchor to rap from after finding the route had been done?
The pinnacle had been done, by which route? A guess would be with pitons up the left side of the patty, above the yellow spot of lichen. Probably did a pinns rappel.
I saw a line on the far side not shown in the pic, whether the bulge will go or how the rock quality is TBD.
JC, Harley Davidson should capitalize on that VACANT add space, while you are still sporting the goatee.
A few of Harley's slogans(for you to demo);
The Badder You Are, The Bigger the Gift
Bring Out Your Dark Side
For a Powerful Street Eating Machine
Armed with Force
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Curious, why the anchor to rap from after finding the route had been done?
I'd established a modern free climbing route and a modern anchor was appropriate.
And Jon, I looked and saw no signs of pitons. There were no old bolts either, not even quarter inch aid studs.
I think the earlier ascent was by a rope-throw and prussick; the bulge/ear-type formation on the uphill side (which I didn't see until I'd climbed it) can be seen from above. It would have been relatively easy to make a throw over this. The can was under a rock just above this ear-like feature, and don't forget that the first ascent of The Gargoyle, 100 yards downhill was done by the same method (rope throw and prussick) back in 1962. I wouldn't be surprised if the same party didn't just move uphill to climb this formation by the same method.
Here's the photo J.C. took from above which shows the feature I'm describing:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5448/31589386475_ea7b948842_c.jpg)
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As expected - I opened the can and there was no usable information.
I used gloves to try removing the lid. But the twist quickly broke the can:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/638/30790577373_7b10fab7e5_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5445/31562912036_4d442954f3_c.jpg)
The contents included a rock (to hold the can down, even though they put a rock on top of it too?), a pencil and faint, faint scraps of paper:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/749/31562914946_ea871ca085_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/558/31562920036_75f7faab28_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/352/31453629642_88d761b020_c.jpg)
I carefully unfolded and examined each piece of paper with 2x reading glasses. Nothing was discernible:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/591/31453633932_97a150e5b1_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/270/31484240541_bf5d172e17_c.jpg)
So we're left with a mystery. My guess is what I posted above. If it was done that way, we'd have two rope throw/prussick routes which would be close in distance, style and, given how old the can seems, time. Probably the same first ascent party too.
Let's leave the formation name as Coffee Can Pinnacle. The route needs a separate name though - there's at least one long line to be done still, the lowest angle face shown in the first photo in this thread. That might be a good line. It will certainly be long. And if that ever gets done? Well do we really need another "Original," or "Regular" route name for the route I did? No.
I've got an idea for the name. Since the formation name was suggested by another climber, let's let the route name come that way too:
Coffee Can Pinnacle - Your Ad Goes Here 5.8 (no stars; although the rock is really good, it doesn't have enough true fifth class climbing to get stars).
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Foreheadplay??
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Shame about the can contents, but not unexpected. The rope toss theory sounds as right as can be without more. Tfpu
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Shame about the can contents, but not unexpected. The rope toss theory sounds as right as can be without more. Tfpu
A rope toss on this formation would have been easier than the rope toss on The Gargoyle (which was done from the top of a huge boulder, over the top of where Que Lastima goes now).
BTW, you, Munge, are you going to start making any appearances at Pinns any time soon?
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As expected - I opened the can and there was no usable information.
Coffee Can Pinnacle - Your Ad Goes Here 5.8
I just got off the phone with Geraldo Rivera.
Capone's Canister
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Speaking of mystery there seems to be a bit concerning the Gargoyle, Piedras Bonitas, Viva Zapatos Boulder and Valle del Baile.
Gruniga is literally not a word - is this The Grunt?
What a Shame seems like a weird name for a two star 10b. Maybe the good stuff was over too quick?
Where are these Pretty Rocks? Maybe this is a joke since no route was ever finished on this formation and the rotten overhanging faces are pretty hideous.
Long Live Shoes? Hmmm...maybe Jack and Bob's shoes were about to blow when they did that route and The Margin of Life.
Gajolotes is not a word either but Guajolotes is - meaning turkey, fool or idiot. This fits Pinnacles in multiple ways.
The other two translate to Dance of the Rebel and Dance of the Eagle. Both of those are pretty damn cool
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^^^
These were distinctly Jack's names, and he was very careful in giving them to me (by multiple back and forth emails). And he was also clearly having fun with them too.
I may have mentioned how much I enjoyed communicating with him about this stuff? At one point, in one week I think I got 46 emails from him. He'd give me some details and I'd ask for more. A few hours later he'd email me again, claiming that I'd made him put on crampons to crawl down into his muddy basement to look for his notes. But I got the additional information.
After the book came out I had lunch with Jack in San Fransisco (I met him at his office after I had a business meeting there). It turned into something like a two hour event. A fantastic day.
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Some things aren't meant to be known.
It's usually more fun to speculate about the meanings anyway.
Sometimes when you find out the true meaning it is less satisfying than what you imagined.
Viva Birdbrain :lol: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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While on the topics of the routes out there, can you make the correction on Dilemma and have it describe the correct start? Start on a small boulder then move up and left into the water streak instead of move right into the water streak.
JC, I TR'd the long face of the big boulder and almost got it before a hold blew. The climbing is quite hard but very entertaining. Slightly overhanging, thin, loose, what is there not to like about it. I did make it to the top but had one or two hangs. It would be the obvious line to the right of Dilemma. Good stuff out there for those that want some not so normal TR adventures.
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While on the topics of the routes out there, can you make the correction on Dilemma and have it describe the correct start? Start on a small boulder then move up and left into the water streak instead of move right into the water streak.
I guess the Czar will have to handle that request :rolleyes: :lol:
JC, I TR'd the long face of the big boulder and almost got it before a hold blew. The climbing is quite hard but very entertaining. Slightly overhanging, thin, loose, what is there not to like about it. I did make it to the top but had one or two hangs. It would be the obvious line to the right of Dilemma. Good stuff out there for those that want some not so normal TR adventures.
Nice.
Hopefully clink will see this since he is the official TR guru.
If he can get the line clean - would it be okay if he claimed the FA credit for this one? :lol: :incazzato: :ihih: :devildevil:
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That's probably the least enthusiastic selfie I've ever seen.
But cool find.
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Haha. He is the BOM
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That's probably the least enthusiastic selfie I've ever seen.
I bitterly resemble that remark :P
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Haha. He is the BOM
E.S.A.D.
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While on the topics of the routes out there, can you make the correction on Dilemma and have it describe the correct start? Start on a small boulder then move up and left into the water streak instead of move right into the water streak.
I think you should go out and start the route from the correct point instead of having me have to go through all the work of changing a description.
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:)
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If he can get the line clean - would it be okay if he claimed the FA credit for this one?
Of course
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I think you should go out and start the route from the correct point..
fixed
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Are we in backwards world? Brad takes the bait while clink abstains?
BOM brings up 57 meanings - none of which are appropriate for the situation.
Brad of Mud has to be what that knuckle-dragging last of the meanderthals meant.
No wonder Cro-Magnon man ate your liver. :lol:
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It looks like the coffee can top has some lettering, but the photograph is not clear enough to show the lettering. Were you able to figure out what the lettering on the top of the can said?
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It looks like the coffee can top has some lettering, but the photograph is not clear enough to show the lettering. Were you able to figure out what the lettering on the top of the can said?
Barry Bates was here. :lol:
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While on the topics of the routes out there, can you make the correction on Dilemma and have it describe the correct start?
And tell them where the route name came from Mud....
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clink dialed me in on BOM but I won't repeat it here.
I know how much Brad likes to tell that story.
I couldn't believe it went straight over our heads.
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clink dialed me in on BOM but I won't repeat it here.
I know how much Brad likes to tell that story.
I couldn't believe it went straight over our heads.
What makes you think I didn't get it? :P After all, I guess I am it (damn daughters). But still the "Eat S@#$ and Die" post seemed to fit.
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That's probably the least enthusiastic selfie I've ever seen.
We did abandon Brad, or was it leave him to his own devices(thang). Possibly it was the difficulty of suppressing jealousy after spying Climberdude doing a FA somewhere in the background and without him. Brad, it's going to be OK.
JC, word on the street is that you look sharp and handsome with a goatee. I decided not to stretch it to sexy and debonair and keep it more believable. :)
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And tell them where the route name came from Mud....
Well for me it was because I wanted to boulder the line. The dilemma was to TR, bolt, or just do it the right way.
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What makes you think I didn't get it? :P After all, I guess I am it (damn daughters). But still the "Eat S@#$ and Die" post seemed to fit.
By "our" I meant me and the Tuff Chik.
The ESAD should have been a clue but my density still prevented me from realizing what should have been obvious.
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Well for me it was because I wanted to boulder the line. The dilemma was to TR, bolt, or just do it the right way.
I remember the discussion starting because there was no way to stance bolt that line (which you felt was the right/only way to bolt a new route out there - in honor of Jack Holmgren who'd stance bolted almost everything else in the area).
The dilemma was therefore whether to leave it as a toprope or bolt it on lead using aid (thereby violating what you thought was right). Honoring Jack won.
(But you started in the wrong place, thereby making my description wrong :P )
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Hmmmmn.
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It should go as a boulder problem, starting from the right, then moving up and left into the water streak.
Unfortunately, I am not sure if I can ever get fit enough to even think of something like that again. Working out 5 days a week burning over 500 calories per session and cannot get below 170. Almost as frustrating as not bouldering out that line years ago. Should be very possible with a few crash pads. It is only 5.10. Where are the hard people?
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It should go as a boulder problem, starting from the right, then moving up and left into the water streak.
Unfortunately, I am not sure if I can ever get fit enough to even think of something like that again. Working out 5 days a week burning over 500 calories per session and cannot get below 170. Almost as frustrating as not bouldering out that line years ago. Should be very possible with a few crash pads. It is only 5.10. Where are the hard people?
Muscle weighs more than fat. Go by how you feel and how your clothes fit - chuck the scale.
I saw you do some pretty hard stuff without much effort after you made it sound like you couldn't climb harder than 5.7.
You could probably do it right now :biggrin:
Hard people? Are they related to Pad people?
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I think there is a possibility I might be climbing fairly solid 5.7 at the moment. Some Pad people are hard.
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Here's the Bing Translator results for "I might be climbing fairly solid 5.7 at the moment":
I'm clearly pulling 5.10b/c without realizing I'm climbing 5.10. But I want to climb 5.11d, old skool, not that ninny crap new wave rating horseshit designed for weaksauces and limp noodles. Limp noodles are for Pho, not climbing. DIE
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Here's the Bing Translator results for "I might be climbing fairly solid 5.7 at the moment":
I'm clearly pulling 5.10b/c without realizing I'm climbing 5.10. But I want to climb 5.11d, old skool, not that ninny crap new wave rating horseshit designed for weaksauces and limp noodles. Limp noodles are for Pho, not climbing. DIE
:lol: :thumbup: :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin:
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The best part of waking up,
Is not in a cup.
:)
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depends on the day
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The best part of waking up,
Is not in a cup.
:)
No, The Best Part of Waking Up (5.7/5.8?) is our new route on Coffee Can Pinnacle ;) and not a bad one at that. If Brad And JC hadn't been busy I'm sure they would have snagged this line
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No, The Best Part of Waking Up (5.7/5.8?) is our new route on Coffe Can Pinnacle ;) and not a bad one at that. If Brad And JC hadn't been busy I'm sure they would have snagged this line
Snagged? I suggested it :P
I haven't got it on the new routes sticky yet, but J.C., Tricia and I all did it the next day and thought 5.7. Bold work on your part on those last two bolts!!
But what about stars? It's a nice line and a great location. Very clean of moss and dirt; but the rock isn't as good as I'd hoped. What do you think, a star or not?
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I posted pics on the Pins Sunday thread and cross posted below.
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I posted pics on the Pins Sunday thread
Odd thing to do. I'll be posting the route descriptions soon and they contain a link to this thread (for the history of the pinnacle). So anyone looking up the routes, say, two years from now, will have to go search for a thread that will then be way down the list?
In case that happens, here's the link to the other thread with FA photos from The Best Part of Waking Up:
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=2530.0
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Odd thing to do. I'll be posting the route descriptions soon and they contain a link to this thread (for the history of the pinnacle). So anyone looking up the routes, say, two years from now, will have to go search for a thread that will then be way down the list?
In case that happens, here's the link to the other thread with FA photos from The Best Part of Waking Up:
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=2530.0
Not really odd since it was what we did Sunday.
This is better than a link since it doesn't go straight to the pics.
First glimpse of lasher drilling bolt 3
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50263483506_eb36c4acd5_z.jpg)
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OK, that works even better ;)
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If we're comparing it to Your Name Goes Here, Laura thinks that she get three stars ( her words not mine. I don't think she was very impressed with that route ). Since I didn't do your summit route I can't really compare. I'd say maybe one star since the upper headwall is steep and fairly committing. Since it's bound to get a dozen ascents (over the next decade) i'm happy to hear a consensus.
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Since it's bound to get a dozen ascents (over the next decade)
Over the next half century. I would give it a star.
Watching Laura boulder up YAGH, I can understand her distaste for it as she fully extended to reach the holds and then did a power drag over the bulge. It looked painful. Reminds me of a few Pinns climbs. The acronym fits.
BTW, where did you come up with "lasher"? Is it medieval? Goth nickname? S&M? ? You seemed so normal.
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NQN Brad's birthday is tomorrow.
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Happy birthday Brad!!!!! Can you believe it's been a year?
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Happy Birthday
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Got to finish Hoof It with Brad and clink today. Good day.
It is our 5th anniversary of climbing at Pinns tomorrow with 100% chance of rain.
Maybe a repeat of Triple X is in order :lol: :yesnod: :yikes: :thumbup: :puke:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dPpJsWFc3Cj0YVAeV1cvPdX2VDmR1hXIym7xGGOAWfK2FaJChh9YzGogjFgcppgfL8tRmSpGwfj7Wg3_puCgH8mQJeTibE76IsH-42PYHtdi3yyGxn34QZncgiUtb5ugO71rjQ_KOYPz7-t7VL4Tlq=w700-h525-no?authuser=0)