MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Atomizer on December 05, 2016, 04:04:24 PM
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I made it out to The Yaks for the first time last Thursday and was very surprised that I'd never visited this area before. We climbed Shoot the Tube, which I thought was spectacular and a nice warm up to the bolder routes. I really enjoyed it and it gets three stars in my book.
I was very captivated by the routes to the right. Most curious about White Punks on Rope. I know someone here has done it... Mud. Just wondering how bold the climbing is... And Nolte solidity, couldn't really tell too much front the ground except that it looks sick! And i doubt people do this one very often. Orion looks cool too, psyched to discover another Kammerlander route.
Any info on said climbs or recommendations for other climbs at the Yaks would be appreciated.
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I was very captivated by the routes to the right. Most curious about White Punks on Rope. I know someone here has done it... Mud. Just wondering how bold the climbing is... And Nolte solidity, couldn't really tell too much front the ground except that it looks sick! And i doubt people do this one very often.
This will sound funny, but here's a bit of advice regarding White Punks: bring baby butt wipes! I've never gotten it clean, but I've been on it twice. The first time I got micro amounts of bat guano on my hands (it's under the roof) and had to go all day with the smell on them. Yuk.
Orion looks cool too, psyched to discover another Kammerlander route.
Very heads up route. Check to see whether the bolts have been replaced. I did this in the mid 1990s and wasn't too fond of the bolts then.
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...I've never gotten it clean...
Hey, nice if inadvertent pun!
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Brad, it reads even better like this.
bring baby butt wipes! I've never gotten it clean
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Insert Quote
I made it out to The Yaks for the first time last Thursday and was very surprised that I'd never visited this area before
Atomizer is back on the mud! Winter grounds?
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I've been around since June but I haven't had an opportunity to get down when it wasn't 100 degrees. Psyched to be back on the home rocks.
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White Punks on Rope is a bit heads up, I agree with Brad about baby butt wipes, I used an old style #5 under the roof. I do not think you will have any problems with it. Fun route.
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White Punks on Rope is a bit heads up, I agree with Brad about baby butt wipes, I used an old style #5 under the roof. I do not think you will have any problems with it. Fun route.
Isn't it a foregone conclusion that you better watch out when the FA is J Mc or DES? This one is both.
I wouldn't expect Orion to be rebolted.
I haven't been on it and nothing in the records indicate any activity from Bruce and Clint.
I know they want to get back out there and work some more stuff one of these days.
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Orion should be on the rebolt list.
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I wouldn't expect Orion to be rebolted.
I haven't been on it and nothing in the records indicate any activity from Bruce and Clint.
I know they want to get back out there and work some more stuff one of these days.
I think that you and I and Kat saw Orion's first bolt last year as we walked under it. And it did not look like it had been replaced. I mentioned then that I "thought" I'd seen somewhere that Bruce and Clint had rebolted it, but I wasn't sure. It sure didn't look like it when we saw it.
Am I remembering that right?
I distinctly, distinctly remember leading the route and wondering about the old rusty bolts which were a long, long way apart (and I distinctly recall too wishing that there were a lot more of them - even though they looked really old and really crusty).
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Welcome back
I'm also looking to get back on the mudstone. perhaps Saturday.
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I'm also looking to get back on the mudstone. perhaps Saturday.
It is freezing here. Must have frozen somewhere else as well.
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Vitaliy says Pinnacles is good for dry tooling, so the cold won't matter.
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Orion should be on the rebolt list.
A lot of the experienced drill masters "should" be interested in rebolting too but alas - they are not.
I have a list at the house a mile long.
If anyone has any doubt about a route, just check my Master List sticky.
I keep it up to date based on all reported activity.
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O.k. Let's re-bolt Orion. It's only 4 bolts. That means you get to climb some other stuff.
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O.k. Let's re-bolt Orion. It's only 4 bolts. That means you get to climb some other stuff.
You got a deal brudda :yesnod:
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O.k. Let's re-bolt Orion. It's only 4 bolts. That means you get to climb some other stuff.
Thanks
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Vitaliy says Pinnacles is good for dry tooling, so the cold won't matter.
DIE
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Exciting, no..?
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I couldn't find the first bolt on Orion. I think it might have fallen off...
Was feeling under the weather yesterday and I forgot my helmet so I didn't get on White Punks. But Tato Pani and some other 10b to the right were very enjoyable. I'm super psyched for White Punks... Hopefully soon.
I have to say I don't feel too bold these days. I took the AMGA Rock guide course in the spring and then in August I was on hand for two pretty awful accidents. The first was in The Bugaboos where an inexperienced climber fell and his gear pulled off a car sized block and he was partially crushed. Then another fellow took a 70 ft ground fall next to me and broke his back in addition to other things. Having to lead that rescue has left me with some PTSD.
Almost nothing that I loved to do before is giving me the same thrill anymore. Partially because I have been climbing and doing other sports at such a high level that I've been well accustomed to the dangers for years. Suddenly the dangers are highly apparent. Exploring this new, to me, area of the park is very therapeutic. And chances are I won't have to rescue anyone I don't know out there.
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And [hopefully] I won't have to rescue anyone I don't know out there.
There, fixed it for ya. :)
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Those are serious incidents to absorb.
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The hard moves on White Punks are fairly safe. I have fallen from above the bulge and it is a clean fall. The upper part has a bit of a run but the moves are not hard.
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Adam, I'll be interested to hear what you think of White Punks. I've done the route twice, including a solo top rope of it about 5 weeks ago, which I imagine was the last time it was climbed.
I'd say the line is pretty challenging for a 5.11, and there are definitely a few sections of run out. The hardest moves are filthy with guano and bird whitewash, which definitely increases how difficult they are to put together. The sequences of moves before and after the whitewash may not be as hard but they are still difficult and sustained. Last time I climbed the line, I pulled off a fist-sized rock while stemming above the hardest crux area and it smacked me in the face... There are some other areas where important knobs can pull off too, so stay alert.
Be safe and let us know how it goes!
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I pulled off a fist-sized rock while stemming above the hardest crux area and it smacked me in the face...
So that's what happened.