MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on August 08, 2016, 10:25:11 AM
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How many days have you been at Pinns this summer?
9 outings for me so far ;D
4 new routes complete, a couple of new leads, a few old bolts replaced.
Adventure is alive and well.
clink on the well protected crux of Mud Diamond 5.7*** (there is a bolt at his waist)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4393/37075748952_a1310bab9e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YufUsU)
This is how the bolt got there :yesnod: :thumbup: :ihih:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4354/37075749112_de73f1e548_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YufUvE)
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nice sling placement.
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you coulda tied off that drill and left the bit behind too! ;)
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nice sling placement.
I thought you might like that. :yesnod:
It was unnerving weighting that little sucker and then hoisting up on it a bit.
I was able to get these side slings on and nestled in once I did that. :ihih:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4432/37247649715_80782db761_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YKrWza)
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Such a very special edition. :puke:
>:D
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puking emoticon is my favorite.
:puke: :puke: :puke:
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Is that a new drill, btw? The top end doesn't look mushroom'd.
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puking emoticon is my favorite.
Very creative nelkins 8)
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Is that a new drill, btw? The top end doesn't look mushroom'd.
Pretty new. I also don't beat the hell out of my drill holders.
I keep 'em filed too if they do mushroom - that shroom edge can be razor sharp - saw Primrose draw blood one day when we were working on the Inn Crowd - man that seems like a lifetime ago...
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you could belay off of that.
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you could belay off of that.
Funny you should say that but you are right - it is a great hold.
I offered to belay clink up so he could finish drilling the hole. :ihih:
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If only your mouth had fallen asleep along with yer legs. :P
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If only your mouth had fallen asleep along with yer legs. :P
Your price on bolts and hangers just went up :idea::devildevil:
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will remember that line
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After finishing up the (Brad's ?) grey chute that JC had called Just Chute Me and I dubbed High Lee and Unlike Lee, we backtracked around to the north side of the formation to escape the sun. First we scrambled up a fin to a ledge with a nice tree and a possible line, but the rock quality after 20 ft up looked questionable. Rather than put effort into this, we continued around to the toe(lowest point) of the buttress to take a look at a line that caught our attention the first trip to the area.
A beautiful lodestone started us out just left of the toe, followed by consistently great holds at a left diagonal and then dancing up to a headwall (45 ft up) that looked more do-able on the left. The route instead went more or less straight up, right through the steepest part and within a sea of bomber holds at 5.7 (for my height.) The next stance was a beauty, as was the whole day and a 5.fun new route.
It all started with me polluting the bathroom with a very "special edition", just in time for the arrival of the sport climbers. Who decided after a brief conversation, that it was the worst bathroom smell they had ever encountered in their short life experience, at which point I offered up only "Special edition" from the far stall as an explanation. JC heard them relate their dangerous encounter to the girl partner back at the car and I found him nearly dead from shaking with laughter on my return. :)
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A 5.fun new route.
I offered up only "Special edition" from the far stall as an explanation.
Classic day with clink. 5 fun indeed and repeated gut wrenching laughter :yesnod: :biggrin:
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When you can sling knobs, why even bolt at all?! ;)
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When you can sling knobs, why even bolt at all?! ;)
Yes
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When you can sling knobs, why even bolt at all?! ;)
Let me know when you want to lead it and I'll go out and show you which bolt to skip.
I could use the entertainment. I think clink would like to be there too. :devildevil:
I have to mention that the main little knob I was hanging on was barely wide enough to keep the skinny sling on and no way it would stay on if you blow the move. It is also a long and committing reach to get the sling on there. Lastly, that particular knob is a key hand hold for setting up and pulling the crux, so the sling would be under your finger tips. 3 people led the climb Sunday and thoroughly enjoyed it. The climb definitely has some spice even with the bolts.
Now I also have another 5.7 just up the corridor from there and the crux move relies on an incredible sling knob. The knob is about 3 feet above a bolt and it is also a bit reachy and committing to get the sling on it. Kat is following the climb here. It turns out you can do the crux right or left of the knob but the holds looked sturdier to me on the left. I did it on the left and she did it on the right. No one else has led this climb so far. Bottoms Up!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/37075749002_6cb6d14f20_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YufUtL)
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Yes
Rock Naked :yesnod: :yikes: :ihih:
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Rock Naked :yesnod: :yikes: :ihih:
Never again... >:(
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8)
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I would love to get over there and lead it sometime - it looks like a fun climb for sure! Nice work putting it up! Oh, and methinks I'll definitely be happy that there is a bolt right there! =)
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The caption on that photo should say " kat's head shown for scale only"
Head sized lodestone.
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I would love to get over there and lead it sometime - it looks like a fun climb for sure! Nice work putting it up! Oh, and methinks I'll definitely be happy that there is a bolt right there! =)
Hold it, weren't we talking about Rock Naked?
If you want to lead that, you're as nuts as Mud himself :-\
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Hold it, weren't we talking about Rock Naked?
If you want to lead that, you're as nuts as Mud himself :-\
Naw. I just put that on there for Mud. I want Scott to have fun! :biggrin:
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The caption on that photo should say " kat's head shown for scale only"
Head sized lodestone.
Funny dude :biggrin:
That thing is so bomber! Route should get a star just for that 8)
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I feel like I missed something here, but I'm now very wary of the words "rock" and "naked" being used together!
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There is a route on the Outcast called Rock Naked
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Had a fun two days with KC at Pinns.
We talked to a lot of different folks, some climbers, some not.
We started and finished a new route Friday.
Call of the Crud 5.5, 4 bolts in 100 feet to a 2 bolt anchor.
It got pretty smoky starting about mid day.
I think the smoke actually helped keep the temps down a little.
Camped last night and went back out early today.
We noticed a thin layer of ash on the car this morning.
I thought the chute I had my eye on would be at least partially shaded early.
I was wrong.
Two bolts in on a sun drenched face and I'd had enough.
We'll finish that one next weekend.
Ashes the Mud and I. Rating tbd :thumbup: :biggrin:
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I think it was cooler down there than up here.
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I think it was cooler down there than up here.
It was only 99 yesterday but felt about 103 to me on the way out after we decided to bag it.
Working in the sun didn't help but I was determined to at least get the line started.
There was not a single mosquito in the campground but there are still biting flies.
I thought the flies were gone but they seem to have gotten a second wind.
Persistent little buggers.
How is life up north, other than hot?
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Hot and a bit muggy. Today is a bit cooler and actually fairly reasonable. Got out today and and did two climbs at a local climbing area called the exits ( you take one of two exits off the freeway. The guidebook uses the word Velcro to describe the rock and it is appropriate. Some of the most and most likely the most tacky rock I have ever climbed on. Got out two different days and rode the bike. Starting to settle in a bit but have a ways to go.
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Got out today and and did two climbs at a local climbing area called the exits ( you take one of two exits off the freeway. The guidebook uses the word Velcro to describe the rock and it is appropriate. Some of the most and most likely the most tacky rock I have ever climbed on. Got out two different days and rode the bike. Starting to settle in a bit but have a ways to go.
Excellent. Good to know you are getting out.
That rock sounds interesting.
Here's to Mud in your eye :biggrin:
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Hot and a bit muggy.
At least you weren't bothered.
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...Got out today and and did two climbs at a local climbing area called the exits ( you take one of two exits off the freeway. The guidebook uses the word Velcro to describe the rock and it is appropriate. Some of the most and most likely the most tacky rock I have ever climbed on.
Sound interesting. I went looking for it on that "garbage in/garbage out, with occasional good entries" site. Is this it:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/exit-32--little-si/105789876
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Call of the Crud 5.5, 4 bolts in 100 feet to a 2 bolt anchor.
The ramp left of HMIYE?
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The ramp left of HMIYE?
Correct.
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Sound interesting. I went looking for it on that "garbage in/garbage out, with occasional good entries" site. Is this it:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/exit-32--little-si/105789876
Nope, that is Little Mount Si which is actually closer to the house and as of yet I have not been there. There are supposed to be some steep climbs that can be climbed when wet but they are known to seep a bit during the rains.
This is Exit 38 and the crag with Endless Bliss
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/gun-show/105798594
We need you to come up here and write a comprehensive guide book to the I-90 corridor. I figure you can knock it out when you cruise through the PCT next summer.
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Here's to Mud in your eye :biggrin:
Thanks, and
Here's to sweat in your eye
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Nope, that is Little Mount Si which is actually closer to the house and as of yet I have not been there.
We hiked to the summit of Little Mt Si years ago when I had a buddy living in Redmond.
The closest I have been since then is seeing it in the background when Bullock gets abducted in The Vanishing >:D
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It's official. You all missed the best day at Pinns all summer - weather-wise.
It was so foggy this morning I could not see the Hand from the res.
I'm not even sure I sweated on the chug up the hill to the crag.
I was almost cold getting started in the pseudo sun. It was still trying to peek out of the fog at that point.
I didn't actually feel the heat of the day until 2:00 and even then it was pleasurable.
Park gauge says it was only a high of 87 at 3:30 - I was on the road a few minutes after 3:00.
I spent the morning and early afternoon hanging on knobs and drilling 3 bolts - rope solo.
I will lead the route tomorrow and I told KC if she doesn't lead it she will lose her status as a Tuff Chik.
This is going to be another fun one.
Kat and I are heading back out in the morning to beat the crowds for the free centennial day.
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It's official. You all missed the best day at Pinns all summer - weather-wise.
Sounds kinda like missing the "best day" in months of beating yourself on the head with a hammer.
...beat the crowds
Seems to be a pattern? A symptom of the heat? Either way, inflict a few blows in my name too please.
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Seems to be a pattern? A symptom of the heat? Either way, inflict a few blows in my name too please.
Be ready, 2-3 lines are in a wait to explore with the "SOS" come fall.
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Sounds kinda like missing the "best day" in months of beating yourself on the head with a hammer.
Seems to be a pattern? A symptom of the heat? Either way, inflict a few blows in my name too please.
Seems like you have things under control already :lol:
Kat and I also had an interesting conversation on the trail today after she had done two new leads. I reminded her that she scored big time by leading the new routes. First of all, she redeemed herself, since I told her if she didn't lead the route I finished bolting yesterday rope solo, she would have to renounce her Pinns status as a Tuff Chik. I told her in addition to leading the routes and being on the first ascent party, she also got the coveted 2nd ascent of both routes. She replied - Cool, I retain my status and I got to snake Brad :yesnod: :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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It's official. You all missed the best day at Pinns all summer - weather-wise.
It was so foggy this morning I could not see the Hand from the res.
I'm not even sure I sweated on the chug up the hill to the crag.
I was almost cold getting started in the pseudo sun. It was still trying to peek out of the fog at that point.
I spent the morning and early afternoon hanging on knobs and drilling 3 bolts - rope solo.
I will lead the route tomorrow and I told KC if she doesn't lead it she will lose her status as a Tuff Chik.
This is going to be another fun one.
I spent Friday getting the upper 3 bolts on Ashes the Mud and I.
Here are the knobs that protected me for bolt 3. The bolt is already in place.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4334/37247050895_43a105f38e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YKoSyF)
Here is the array I used for bolt 5. It was literally a ladder of knobs. A big one at the bottom, baseball size in the middle and a nice horn at the top. This shows the bottom and middle. The red sling is on the top knob. The purple is in direct to the bolt so I could take the photo and prep to get back down.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4358/37247051205_367ba1de43_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YKoSE2)
Here is the top knob and bolt 5 ready for my descent.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4419/37056716356_55ac6d1734_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YszmJG)
Feeling good after a fun day
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/37247051705_87313b247b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YKoSND)
I took this yesterday after Kat led the climb. Super fun beginner’s route with an old school finish.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4382/37056715536_157c509e4c_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yszmuy)
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Me, Myself and I Reek in the Hot Sun
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Me, Myself and I Reek in the Hot Sun
I have no doubt that is true.
I did not spend any time in the hot sun this weekend.
Maybe if you didn't have greywacke between your ears you wouldn't have either :lol:
This is fog, not smoke.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4386/37104552471_a80d0ee8a6_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YwNwKi)
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...this is fog, not smoke.
There's definitely fog somewhere this season.
Meanwhile, my left elbow is all bloodied from the very awkward, 5.10c crack I successfully led today (maybe I will get back to being a real climber after all). Of course I then backed off a 5.10c face - feeling really rusty on that one and was looking at a fall right onto an eight inch, ankle breaking ledge (the FA party did a piss poor job of bolting it).
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There's definitely fog somewhere this season.
Meanwhile, my left elbow is all bloodied from the very awkward, 5.10c crack I successfully led today (maybe I will get back to being a real climber after all). Of course I then backed off a 5.10c face - feeling really rusty on that one and was looking at a fall right onto an eight inch, ankle breaking ledge (the FA party did a piss poor job of bolting it).
Unless you led a 10c at Pinnacles I'm not interested.
Oh wait...it's granite, it's a crack, it's 10c...I'm still not interested :nonod: :lol:
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Oh...and speaking of fatheads (should I cross post on that other thread?)..check out this new drill bit I tried yesterday.
It drills real nice. The Powers Fat Head design.
Just for fun I switched to my other drill after getting the hole started with this one and it immediately started binding.
Switched back and no more binding. One hole is not enough data but I'll speculate this sucker is going to help me place a lot of bolts faster and easier.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/37104768571_61ab94cd04_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YwPCZa)
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Meanwhile, my left elbow is all bloodied from the very awkward, 5.10c crack I successfully led today (maybe I will get back to being a real climber after all). Of course I then backed off a 5.10c face - feeling really rusty on that one and was looking at a fall right onto an eight inch, ankle breaking ledge (the FA party did a piss poor job of bolting it).
Nice, Brad.
There's definitely fog somewhere this season.
Fogged mind.
Despite that JC is right. When most of the holds will stay put, it's a little boring.
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Despite that JC is right.
Briefly hit 96 today.
What a waste :madmax: :lol:
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Briefly hit 96 today.
What a waste Mad Max Laugh Out Loud
Nothing was wasted, it was Gender Equality Day. Like D-Day, but with more letters represented. A day for male and female Homo-sapiens to stand tall and proud together as a species, on a united front(but not full)!
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Nothing was wasted
Except a perfect opportunity to quest for mud.
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I think summer might be over in NW. Rain in the forecast W-F. Weekend weather was nice. Got in a ride Sunday.
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I think summer might be over in NW. Rain in the forecast W-F. Weekend weather was nice. Got in a ride Sunday.
Yes, I forgot you actually live somewhere now that has real seasons :biggrin:
I had a hard time adjusting to that when we first moved to CA.
Mainly it was the lack of thunder and lightning with the rains.
It was like waiting for a phone call that never happened.
Good to know you are getting out.
I was thinking you might have just led the line I did Friday on sling knobs and gear. :ihih:
There was a good gray alien about half way up in a hidden slot out right.
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I'm looking at the picture upthread again of the latest route.
If I hadn't already decided on a name I'd probably call it Half a Dozen Scoops of Mud.
You can even see them on Google Earth.
I thought it looked like a backbone too, the first time I saw it in that view.
Here is another version with the bolts shown
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4335/37056716016_7c9c44d090_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YszmCQ)
Here is the Google Earth view with the line coming up dead center
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4344/36433181733_46d3427035_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XvtzBK)
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Yes, I forgot you actually live somewhere now that has real seasons :biggrin:
I had a hard time adjusting to that when we first moved to CA.
Mainly it was the lack of thunder and lightning with the rains.
It was like waiting for a phone call that never happened.
Good to know you are getting out.
I was thinking you might have just led the line I did Friday on sling knobs and gear. :ihih:
There was a good gray alien about half way up in a hidden slot out right.
Adjusting to winters with more than a week or two of rain might take a bit.
Nah, I'd solo it ; )
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The crud beckoned and we obeyed.
Some lame brain stole clink's water stash.
We tidied up and led a few new lines.
KC got the coveted 2nd ascent of Call of the Crud, thus snaking Brad again :lol: :thumbup:
Lower 90's was pleasant :biggrin:
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Water stash was for the parched summer dweller's use, although that particular stash I thought might be consumed by the resident Meanderthal.
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Water stash was for the parched summer dweller's use, although that particular stash I thought might be consumed by the resident Meanderthal.
I hope they ran out on the way back and drank from the reservoir :devildevil: :ciappa:
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Kat leads Call of the Crud 5.5 with a long way to go
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4340/36847804400_740ee5afb2_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97Cuq)
I did not get the full impact of Kat fussing at me about almost running out of rope every time I climbed up Call of the Crud, until I belayed her on the climb. We were using a half rope, which ends up being perfect!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4345/37055543816_cc79e48ffe_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ystmbu)
Looking down Here's Mud in Your Eye 5.8** from above the last bolt.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4344/36847804110_a975dc271e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97Cpq)
I managed to get all of the bolts/draws in this shot. The fact that they look only inches apart from each other shows how steep the climb is. Love it! :yesnod:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4410/37055543426_3bf18fe97a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ystm4L)
Kat takes a run up just below the last bolt. Three star quality for sure. The only thing it lacks is greater length. Does size really matter? :ihih:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/36847803740_985e4854d0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97Ci3)
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Fun pics.
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Looks fun! Where are those routes?
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Looks fun! Where are those routes?
Come to the PCAD in 5 weeks and find out :yesnod: :biggrin:
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Took my first leader fall during our quest for mud this weekend and I screamed like a little girl. (Just like Brad) ;D
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Got a treat this weekend.
Kat took Friday off and we continued our quest for mud.
Friday we climbed Mud Diamond (clink is jealous since it was my 3rd time). :ihih:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4437/37055543096_b2f8a746d7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstkY5)
From the Mud Diamond anchor we did a 4th class route 110 feet to the summit of the formation.
The Walking Mud 4th Class
Description preview: For experienced Mudders this route will likely be a walk in the park. For the inexperienced it may be a horror show.
The other option is to Fear the Walking Mud and rappel from the Mud Diamond anchor.
Up next, Kat took her first leader fall on Shoo Fly Slab after a hold broke just past the second bolt :'( :-* :yikes:
After getting our fill of crud, we got a new route started (3 bolts), had a pleasant evening camping and finished the new route yesterday (2 more bolts and a 2 bolt anchor).
Drilling bolt 3 on Squeaky Clean Mud 5.6**
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/36847803450_22ae4ef6c6_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97Cd3)
Beanolar joined us yesterday for a few routes. I led Prairie Falcon to get warmed up.
The gals seemed to have reach issues on the climb (oops) :devildevil: :ihih:,
Beanolar stepped up and led Fledgling and Here's Mud in Your Eye and then ran 6! laps on HMIYE with her micro traxion setup while Kat and I finished the new route.
Beanolar leading Fledgling
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/37055542766_291361e1a4_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstkSo)
Beanolar leading Here’s Mud in Your Eye
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4347/36847803180_4ef4200835_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97C8o)
We saw a couple of the kids from CSUMB (Fletcher and Connie) in the parking lot on the way out. They were fired up about the upcoming PCAD. There will be some serious fun to be had on all the new routes after we get some trail work done! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Cool Beanolar. KC, quit breaking holds and I am jealous I missed Squeaky.
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Cool routes guys!!! Nice n cool in the shade. I only broke a sweat on the first bolt of that 5.6. JC's new nickname is "Reachy John".
Also I found a bit in the mud (clink's fat head?). Reachy John has it. Pls pay me back by adding a lower bolt to that route. ;D
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KC, ignore Clink's advice and break whatever you like. It saves me the trouble.
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Pls pay me back by adding a lower bolt to that route.
Nope, there are plenty of well protected new routes. I like the mix.
Took my first leader fall during our quest for mud this weekend and I screamed like a little girl. (Just like Brad) Grin
Brads yell was like an angry troll or Cyclops when his eye got poked. He was pretty pissed but stuck the landing on the slab below. You kept him off the ground KC!
Friday we climbed Mud Diamond (clink is jealous since it was my 3rd time). Ihih
Love that route.
Insert Quote
KC, ignore Clink's advice and break whatever you like. It saves me the trouble.
When are you Mudding next Waldo?
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Took my first leader fall during our quest for mud this weekend and I screamed like a little girl. (Just like Brad) ;D
What, you thought I'd miss that you little turd? You are as busted as busted can get.
I don't f#$%ing fall at Pinnacles and I only scream like a little girl for rattlesnakes.
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Missed the Mud today, but got to climb with the geologist.
OK, maybe not THE geologist, but at least it was the other one.
We established four new routes on Forefather's Wall: two crack and knob, gear protected 5.6 routes, a 5.11b layaway with one gut-buster move that I could not do, and a three out of three star 5.11c that I'll bet I can redpoint (although I think I'd fall off the first crux two out of three tries; that just means I have to try to lead it three times, right?).
As great as a climbing day can get (without being on mud).
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a 5.11b layaway
?? Shopping before payday?
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?? Shopping before payday?
That's pretty funny - I'd never put those two together like that before.
No, layaway, as in one is pulling hard and leaning away from the pull, but not doing a full lieback.
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Missed the Mud today.
We established four new routes: two crack and knob, gear protected 5.6 routes
Can't say I missed it, as the temps hit 104 today and I was already there Monday, Wednesday, Friday and yesterday.
It was only 101 yesterday.
Mmmmmm...Mongo like 5.6 routes but not like long drive :nono: :prrr: :lol:
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Mmmmmm...Mongo like 5.6 routes but not like long drive :nono: :prrr: :lol:
Yes, but Mongo like the hospitality once long drive is done. Get Mongos's butt up here for next weekend?
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Waldo came out and climbed some routes with me and Kat on Saturday. He led Call of the Crud and he and Kat followed Squeaky Clean Mud and TRed Here’s Mud in Your Eye.
Waldo in the vicinity of bolt 3 while leading Call of the Crud 5.5
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4389/36847802390_9379a6e5ae_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97BTL)
After he said adios, I bolted the line right of Here's Mud in Your Eye - two bolts compared to HMIYE's 4. It leads you to standing on the biggest perched lodestone I know of anywhere in Pinns to clip bolt 2. Mudster's Ball 5.7* A decent addition but obviously not as enticing as HMIYE since no one took a shot at the coveted 2nd ascent yesterday. Who wants to snake Brad? The line was originally TRed by clink and at that time we called it Senor Skid Marcos. It may actually produce the requisite brown spots for someone leading at the grade. I told clink I was going to climb to the ball for the first bolt but decided that no one would probably ever want to repeat it if I did that. It had a nice stance for the first bolt (albeit hairy to get there) but no way to let go to drill. I set up some slings with adjustable daisies and half-stood, half-hung to drill bolt 1. I have been wondering why my shoulder has been bothering me lately.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/36848666790_5534b20f5c_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y9c3Rd)
Here is some perspective
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/37074914452_42f019b9a8_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YubCoY)
Here is the ball
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4414/36848666580_be51d6268b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y9c3MA)
And another for perspective
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4418/37074914012_5f8ac13e1f_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YubCgo)
Climbed Squeaky Clean Mud with JC, as he says, it was stupid fun. Steep 5.6.
Aaron, Bee, Paul and I climbed Mud Diamond, sweet rock. They also climbed Prairie Falcon, Imprint, Here's Mud in your Eye and Bathing Beauty. Aaron and JC also wandered up Craig's route, said it was good.
Many of these are north facing, great for warm days but cold in the wind yesterday.
Aaron, clink, Paul and Bee came out to the mud yesterday to enjoy some select menu choices. Maybe I should design a mud a la carte tour for the PCAD?
Aaron got things going by jumping right on Imprint 5.8*
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4426/37055542316_7b771d9cbc_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstkJC)
B stepped up and proved it can be done by those under 6 feet. She had a time getting that first clip but she worked it out. Her left hand is just below the bolt. Can you say flash pump?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4381/36847802690_9ea8931a55_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97BYW)
As Austin Powers would say - Yeah daddy! Squeaky Clean Mud is giggly fun coming in at 5.6 and two stars. I left some spice in the bolting pattern but it is all there.
Waldo got this shot from across the slot on Saturday
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4407/36847802940_fd0cfb15e7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y97C4f)
clink was all grins on Squeaky. Here he is about to exit the steeps.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4399/36408641454_35c3162da0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtiNDu)
The Seelig route is actually decent but not 5.7. I will get back up there and brush off all the pine needles so people can actually see the holds. It has a spacious bolting pattern. There are many slingable knobs along the way. So many that I ran out of slings and I took 4. The rock was surprisingly good after exhuming much of it from under the piles and piles of pine needles. Did I mention that there were a lot of pine needles?
Aaron thought it was 5.9. I'll go with that and half a star, which would round up to one. Must have been how they determined the star for Brown Rice and Boogers :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin:.
I was glad everyone did not listen when I said strip at the parking lot. They would have froze most of the day like me!
It was windy and cool all day. A high of 72 on the park gauge. Season my arse. :out: :puke:
Aaron removes the last sling from a knob as he exits the pines on Solotero. Thanks Aaron!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/37055541916_69826ea029_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstkBJ)
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waldo sent me this additional shot of the giggly fun on Squeaky Clean Mud :yesnod: :lol: :thumbup: :ihih:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/37055542476_8441954eda_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstkMo)
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Cookie Munster is getting biceps from his steep fetish of late.
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Dueling JC's on Satyr. Climb bony nubs and horns 110 feet past 4 bolts to a fully erect and exposed summit. Myth or madness? :lol: :yesnod: :ihih: :devildevil:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4376/37055141926_afa9640b46_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsrhHm)
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Satyr Pinnacle is a satellite of Goat Rock. A 5.fun romp with a summit that cantilevers over Juniper Canyon. It has an interesting water-chute that we will have to explore next time. Rewarding after a cross country hike in, via the Western Front with KC and JC. A much easier approach can be had from the High Peaks trail. We dared not climb any thing in the Barber Pole area. All pole dancing in that area is on hold for the return a certain individual obsessed with such things.
In Greek mythology, a satyr pronounced sátyros is one of a troop of ithyphallic male companions of Dionysus with goat-like features and often permanent erection.The satyr's chief was Silenus, a minor deity associated (like Hermes and Priapus) with fertility. These characters can be found in the only complete remaining satyr play, Cyclops, by Euripides, and the fragments of Sophocles' Ichneutae (Tracking Satyrs). The satyr play was a short, lighthearted tailpiece performed after each trilogy of tragedies in Athenian festivals honoring Dionysus. There is not enough evidence to determine whether the satyr play regularly drew on the same myths as those dramatized in the tragedies that preceded. The groundbreaking tragic playwright Aeschylus is said to have been especially loved for his satyr plays, but none of them have survived.
Mature satyrs are often depicted in Roman art with goat's horns, while juveniles are often shown with bony nubs on their foreheads.
As Dionysiac creatures they are lovers of wine and women, and they are ready for every physical pleasure. They roam to the music of pipes (auloi), cymbals, castanets, and bagpipes, and they love to chase maenads or bacchants (with whom they are obsessed, and whom they often pursue), or in later art, dance with the nymphs , and have a special form of dance called sikinnis. Because of their love of wine, they are often represented holding wine cups, and they appear often in the decorations on wine cups.
There is also a cool looking and seemingly unclimbed pinnacle 150ft SW of Satyr. Disclaimer; the rock quality on it may or may not suck but a route could go. We agreed that we are completely spoiled after the stellar rock quality of late.
Directly across the valley sits the Shaft.
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Let's hope we don't get the Shaft next time we're up there. :lol:
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After that pic you might.
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After that pic you might.
What? :confused: You don't like your horns Goat Boy?! :lol: :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4361/36407911044_9e3a6de802_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xtf4wd)
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while most of that mud looks charmingly lovely, there is tasty rock in the rest of the world.
But ya'll know that... :)
[EDITED FOR VIOLATION OF VOLCANIC CONTENT RULES. THE APPROPRIATE CONTENT VALUES AND WEIRDOS COMMITTEE WILL REVIEW AND DETERMINE WHETHER A TRIP TO YOSEMITE IS REQUIRED TO ROUTE OUT THE INFIDELS. WE NOW RETURN YOU TO OUR REGULARLY SCHEDULED PROGRAMMING.]
***We control the vertical, we gave up on the horizontal a long time ago.
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there is tasty rock in the rest of the world.
Seducer, heretic and infidel.
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This is a thread for MUD. How dare you!
:madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :nono: :nono: :nono: :nonod: :nonod: :nonod: :prrr: :prrr: :prrr: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax: :madmax:
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So if Jim or I posted photos of today's class three chute up a 13,500 foot peak, that wouldn't fit either?
Can I at least mention the name? What a great name: Cloudripper Peak.
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Unless it involves MUD - get off my lawn! :out: :ciappa: :prrr:
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Without freedom of expression how can I berate them?
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Berate away. We're leaving after breakfast for another peak in Little Lakes Valley. I look forward to a good beration after we get back.
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Sounds like a blast! Hurry up tho.
To quote Jon Snow "Winter is Coming"
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Berate away. We're leaving after breakfast for another peak in Little Lakes Valley. I look forward to a good beration after we get back.
DIE
Without freedom of expression how can I berate them?
Just Do It!
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Mature cheese.
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To quote Jon Snow "Winter is Coming"
F#$%ERS closed Sonora Pass and I had to come home over Tioga!
DIE
Mature cheese.
Not much a beration. Way cool summit though this morning. I will however, start another thread in the appropriate sub-section of the forum (one that will cover this and future trips climbing with those friendly people on the Sierra's east side).
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look forward to the TR
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Mature cheese.
Look who is talking Mr Special Edition.
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F#$%ERS closed Sonora Pass and I had to come home over Tioga!
Not much a beration. Way cool summit though this morning. I will however, start another thread in the appropriate sub-section of the forum (one that will cover this and future trips climbing with those friendly people on the Sierra's east side).
Yes it's not like you have an ENTIRE FORUM dedicated to this topic.
And thanks for implying that I am unfriendly.
I'll show ya unfriendly.
Damn, I think I may need some Anger Management.
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So if Jim or I posted photos of today's class three chute up a 13,500 foot peak, that wouldn't fit either?
Can I at least mention the name? What a great name: Cloudripper Peak.
Much appreciated.
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Not appreciated in the least.
Keep it up and I am going to do something rash.
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Hey MUD - can you lock this thread to keep the bozos from jackin?
Oh...wait...you are one of them.
Have you all not heard about the menacing clown ordinance?
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Keep it up and I am going to do something rash.
Poison oak again? Please don't....
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I promise, I'll stick to Pinns-related stuff in this thread, and that I'll start another (short) thread as I indicated. (First I've got to find time, which I will this weekend.)
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Keep it up and I am going to do something rash.
Your normal PO rash or do you have a new special type? >:D
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Mud, we found an unclimbed pinnacle that may have no decent rock on it. When will you be here next?
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Hey MUD - can you lock this thread to keep the bozos from jackin?
Oh...wait...you are one of them.
Have you all not heard about the menacing clown ordinance?
This Forum was jacked the day it was created.
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Mud, we found an unclimbed pinnacle that may have no decent rock on it. When will you be here next?
that's hilarious. I don't know why exactly, but I laughed out loud.
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Mud, we found an unclimbed pinnacle that may have no decent rock on it. When will you be here next?
Freaking awesome. sleepless in Seattle.
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Freaking awesome.
:)
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Mud, we found an unclimbed pinnacle that may have no decent rock on it. When will you be here next?
Just so you all know, it was my suggestion to ask Mud about this - clink is a THIEF! :lol:
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Today’s adventure was dominated by the winds of insanity. There were gusts up to 35mph. Kat led Satyr and then I worked on the rappel anchor. After that, we started a new route across the slot. 2 bolts so far on decent rock in a water streak. The Hedonist. We’ll finish it next time out. Should be a nice addition to Satyr and the other lines we’ve got an eye on out there.
Kat suns her toes after leading Satyr.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4404/37073208992_3f3e405e12_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yu2Tqu)
Stance for bolt 1
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4378/37245189225_19a0fdddc1_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YKek9V)
Stance for bolt 2
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4426/36407599204_cc2e58a3c1_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtdsPE)
Looks like rain may actually put a damper on things tomorrow.
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Sorry to miss that. KC looks happy on Satyr. Did she dangle her feet over the void?
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Sorry to miss that. KC looks happy on Satyr. Did she dangle her feet over the void?
She did not - but she did a great job leading the route and downclimbing the nubs and horns to the revised rappel anchor - part of the new, new way - although no TR FA's were done from the revised anchor :lol:
I was surprised she stayed up there in the wind while I was working.
Still no rain on the gauge but 60% chance today with winds equal to or stronger than yesterday.
I felt a few tiny drops yesterday on stance but I wasn't deterred from my task.
Looks like it will heat back up and be clear for the work weekend.
Here's Mud in Your Eye! :ihih: :thumbup:
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The rain gauge still has not tipped at Pinns. Unfreakinbelievable!
Wind gusts to 38mph. Lip service from a blow hard.
Should have gone and finished the route!
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The rain gauge still has not tipped at Pinns. Unfreakinbelievable!
That is unbelievable - you'd think they'd a got something out of three straight days of "maybe."
Here at home we've gotten 5 1/2 inches now since Friday!!! That's per the National Weather Service site with the pipper placed right over our house. Damn close to "good riddence fire season" up here in one good storm :) :)
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We are at close to ten inches. Trees down and there are many minor slides. The transformer on our pole blew, rain extinguished the fire.
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That is crazy dudes! Doesn't sound like you'll have to quest very far for mud.
I doubt it's bentonite though - probably smectite or illite. :ihih:
The Pinns gauge finally tipped after midnight and stopped this am - a whopping .07 inches total.
5:37 14.44
4:37 14.43
3:37 14.43
2:37 14.43
1:37 14.42
0:37 14.37
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I finished The Hedonist today. 4 bolts in 95 feet to a 2 bolt anchor. I'll add rappel chains next time out. There is a 4th class route from the anchor to the summit of Goat - EDIT Old Goat Hoofs It No bolts.. Just kick it old school and walk off.
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I finished The Hedonist today. 4 bolts in 95 feet to a 2 bolt anchor. I'll add rappel chains next time out. There is a 4th class route from the anchor to the summit of Goat - Hoof It! No bolts.. Just kick it old school.
Same one you had two bolts in on October 15 ("across the slot")?
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Old Goat Hoofs It.
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Old Goat Hoofs It.
That's even better clink. Can I use it?
I wanted to get a first bolt in the water streak but ran out of time.
Let's go Saturday!
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PCAD has gotten me stoked on Pinnacles again! I'm hoping maybe we can get out on Sunday or Monday. Anyone going to be around the park those days? JC - maybe I could hit you up for a little beta for Crud and Mud? It would be nice to get back out there and actually do some of the climbs this time!
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PCAD has gotten me stoked on Pinnacles again! I'm hoping maybe we can get out on Sunday or Monday. Anyone going to be around the park those days? JC - maybe I could hit you up for a little beta for Crud and Mud? It would be nice to get back out there and actually do some of the climbs this time!
With the rains it might stay too wet to get on those shady routes at C&M. You could do Imprint and then go to the east face routes. Full sun on all of those early. Bottoms Up gets sunny after that and it still has not seen a second ascent. That is providing it actually rains this time. I won't be able to check until late tonight when I get home. I can send you my mini guide then too. I'll be hitting something sunny on Saturday with Kat. Probably High Peaks via the west side.
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Beanolar (Baby!!) making an early lead of The Barber Pole:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5646/30769326256_2b37f38719_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5484/30769327736_3707d3b9b3_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5714/30769336326_a10db796fd_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5621/30769337526_99a0944fc8_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5761/30769342206_0ee663299a_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5750/30769346186_4f77995fb3_c.jpg)
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J.C on the first ascent of The Barber Pole:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5624/30769316076_dc4a2f32ba_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5634/30769316856_e65c4e49ee_c.jpg)
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And we all get caught in odd poses now and then, right? What's Laura doing in this one:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5605/30769334526_bb2a346631_c.jpg)
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And we all get caught in odd poses now and then, right? What's Laura doing in this one:
Admonishing JC for not using chalk like a proper climber?
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Certain reminder of how spoiled I have become lately with good rock quality, helping JC finish up a 5.9+ bit of shit-f#ckery.
it was Gruff and between JC immediately suggesting it be erased upon topping out and Caleb & Aaron mentioning something about The Anus of History as a name, we had to laugh and move on.
We found an easy route up the pinnacle 90 feet south of Satyr, by traversing south through the cleft on the west side. A 3rd class scramble up a chute leads to a 4th class move to gain the summit.
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Certain reminder of how spoiled I have become lately with good rock quality, helping JC finish up a 5.9+ bit of shit-f#ckery.
it was Gruff and between JC immediately suggesting it be erased upon topping out and Caleb & Aaron mentioning something about The Anus of History as a name, we had to laugh and move on.
We found an easy route up the pinnacle 90 feet south of Satyr, by traversing south through the cleft on the west side. A 3rd class scramble up a chute leads to a 4th class move to gain the summit.
Stop fauning over your new route! :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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The who part is easy. But what the hell is he riding?
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5530/30852251505_6bc042212c_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5573/30764415521_2a70523608_c.jpg)
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Dino Rodeo - easy walk out to a hairy straddle. (3rd class?) Bucking could ensue if the San Andreas or one of the local fault splays decides to cut loose while you're up there.
The drop away is farther than illustrated - Pinnacles version of the diving board :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin:
Too bad the Cheese Wall was composed of Limburger and Blue Cheese crumbles. :crazy: :frown2:
Good place for a picnic. :thumbup: :biggrin:
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...easy walk out...
Really? You almost cut your hand off on the broken brush; almost bled to death. Easy?
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I thought Blood Bath Rodeo might be a bit extreme.
We should go back up, throw a rope over the nose and simul jug to the underside.
clink could do a hand stand above us! :lol:
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Here is a closeup of my awkward drill stance for bolt 4 on Barber Pole.
It was balancy and really weird - the only good rock within reach was way off to the side.
I could barely hold the drill holder and my hits were tricky and lacked leverage.
My knees were pressed into the wall with my hips spread out and my feet were at odd angles.
Combine that with a big chunk breaking off while I was trying to surface - which meant chiseling a new surface.
That slung knob probably would not have held a fall.
In other words - a really fun time!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4374/37102156171_6e6b5bb652_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YwAfpM)
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Here is Brad enjoying his redpoint before we added a bolt to my 30 foot runout.
Another bold maneuver erased for all time.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/36430507953_9bf45f7ce5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XveSN6)
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It should be made clear though that "they" added that bolt at the request of the first ascentionists (me and J.C.). It wasn't some random act.
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And by the way, can you add a blown up photo of the pants I am wearing in that photo please? That was the fourth time they'd ever been worn. No holes, no rips, no errors 8)
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It should be made clear though that "they" added that bolt at the request of the first ascentionists (me and J.C.). It wasn't some random act.
I knew that was coming - surprised you took the bait :lol:
EDIT: I changed the they to we.
You and I got to lead it as a runout but because we are wise old men we decided not to leave it that way for future generations. Here is something for them - Kat is standing at the stance for what was the original 5th bolt (now the 6th).
I marked the location of the 4th bolt so the horde that flocks to lead this route can see the original distance between bolts.
Of course they could just skip bolt 5 (shown as added bolt) :ihih: :devildevil:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4396/36834533110_1140e9d055_z.jpg)
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And by the way, can you add a blown up photo of the pants I am wearing in that photo please? That was the fourth time they'd ever been worn. No holes, no rips, no errors 8)
INCONCEIVABLE!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4347/37054611726_b9c782ea86_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ysoz6Y)
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I knew that was coming - surprised you took the bait :lol:
One never knows who's lurking (and will get the wrong idea).
You and I got to lead it as a runout but because we are wise old men we decided not to leave it that way for future generations. Here is something for them - Kat is standing at the stance for what was the original 5th bolt (now the 6th).
I marked the location of the 4th bolt so the horde that flocks to lead this route can see the original distance between bolts.
Of course they could just skip bolt 5 :ihih: :devildevil:
And for the multi-hundreth time, each of us was one broken hold away from that legendary fall. I was perfectly happy to not take it this time ::)
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INCONCEIVABLE!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4347/37054611726_b9c782ea86_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ysoz6Y)
Closer!
And I want written confirmation that this particular pair of shorts (yes, those are "normal" shorts aren't they?) had no holes except where holes where built into them ;D
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Closer!
And I want written confirmation that this particular pair of shorts (yes, those are "normal" shorts aren't they?) had no holes except where holes where built into them ;D
Closer? The resolution won't be worth it.
I will confirm that Brad indeed was wearing pants that had no holes and no patches.
It didn't seem to affect his climbing either. :lol:
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Closer? The resolution won't be worth it.
I will confirm that Brad indeed was wearing pants that had no holes and no patches.
It didn't seem to affect his climbing either. :lol:
And confirm that they were SHORTS too. "Normal" full length shorts.
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And confirm that they were SHORTS too. "Normal" full length shorts.
What? What shorts? I see pants. :biggrin:
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What? What shorts? I see pants. :biggrin:
Confirms what I always suspected.
People are gonna be jealous of my shorts no matter how long they are.
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Getting the first bolt drilled on Gruff 5.9
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4410/37232440975_23aba0f623_z.jpg)
lasher and the Cover Girl getting the second bolt in on Gruff
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4399/37232441715_8040eb4033_z.jpg)
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The rock on the right hand side of Gruff is as bad as it looks.
Unfortunately some of the stuff on the left side is not so hot either.
I'm not sure if it will evolve into harder or easier terrain as more stuff gets torn off.
It's a shame because the line looks so fun from the ground.
No sense crying over spilled goat's milk - carry on...
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lasher got this great shot from Satyr of beanolar leading The Hedonist - 5.3R*
It goes up and right from just below the big grassy hummocks - The Hedonist has hairy armpits :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4419/37041877306_64314f49fe_z.jpg)
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Retire this one or keep using it? >:(
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5610/30883714526_892495efe2_c.jpg)
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retire
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F4 will say, retire it to Mr. Mud. He'll use it.
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I thought you said it was a core shot? That looks like sheath damage - although the colors don't look right.
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True
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I thought you said it was a core shot? That looks like sheath damage - although the colors don't look right.
It is definitely a core shot. That whiteness one can see in the middle? That's core for sure.
I actually already decided to retire that part of the rope (and use the rest as a half-rope). But I thought it was worth posting the photo.
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F4 will say, retire it to Mr. Mud. He'll use it.
Actually, it's our beloved Mr. Cummins that might actually use a rope like that. He pushes that envelope with a complete nonchalance that blows me away :o
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Back to the Mud.
Kat and I humped up to the High Peaks yesterday and did a new route on Ridge Crest Rock.
We were quite pleased with the way this route turned out.
It provides a fun and bolted alternative to the 5.2 route in the book - which is not 5.2 by the way.
We also got treated to quite the condor show as they soared and circled overhead for much of the day.
Here is an overview shot of the route. The first bolt is at the top of the exposed rib/bridge that leads to the fun slab.
Across the Great Divide 5.5*
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4433/36407197744_47595bdc70_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtbptW)
Two more bolts and a big sling knob protect moves up the slab and then over the bulge.
Here is Kat with the knob slung and the last bolt clipped - contemplating the moves over the bulge.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4409/36407197514_6a543b46e7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtbppY)
Once over the bulge, you join the upper part of the existing route - sorry - no more bolts.
There is however, an anchor with rappel rings now.
Kat nears the summit to finish the coveted 2nd ascent and another snaking of Brad :lol: :lol: :lol: :nono: :rolleyes: :out: :crazy: :devildevil: :ihih:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4424/36407197194_d9eca8e822_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xtbpjs)
100 feet of fun climbing to a huge summit with nice views.
Several groups were headed up the Juniper Canyon trail as we were headed down - no doubt questing for the super moon.
It was shining bright as we departed the parking area and headed home.
The view of the moon got snuffed by fog as soon as we got to 101.
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Kat nears the summit to finish the coveted 2nd ascent and another snaking of Brad :lol: :lol: :lol: :nono: :rolleyes: :out: :crazy: :devildevil: :ihih:
Looks familiar. I think I soloed that back when i was doing guidebook research. :P :P
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Wilderness Wickedness.^^^
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Looks familiar. I think I soloed that back when i was doing guidebook research. :P :P
Yep. I figured that or it was on your legal pad. ::) :idea: :yawn:
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Yep. I figured that or it was on your legal pad. ::) :idea: :yawn:
Actually neither. But I get pissy when I'm deprived of "my" second ascent ::)
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How did you guys approach ridge rock? I was just on the other side for part of the day yesterday and did not see you walk in from the outhouse. I did take a nap for a bit. Too funny.
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How did you guys approach ridge rock? I was just on the other side for part of the day
Do tell
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How did you guys approach ridge rock? I was just on the other side for part of the day yesterday and did not see you walk in from the outhouse. I did take a nap for a bit. Too funny.
We went in past Beak around 10ish. Kat was asking about you on the hike from the Outhouse.
I too wondered what you might be up to and was talking about the 100 foot slab you said you found for us a while back.
We hiked out around 4:00.
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Actually neither. But I get pissy when I'm deprived of "my" second ascent ::)
You wouldn't mind if you saw how happy Kat was to get a new lead and a 2nd ascent :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Been gettin' after this thing since late yesterday afternoon - hoping to finish it tomorrow with Brad and clink.
Kat got this money shot today of me getting up to set up drilling the 4th bolt. Pretty fun climb so far.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4429/37059852822_b4a454fcd5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsRr6G)
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Hanging on a sling on the mongo-big lodestone, drilling bolt four:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5775/31404306975_b95850d260_c.jpg)
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Looks good
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They are well along on the new trail from the West Side Visitors Center to lower West Side parking (I didn't even know they'd started building it!!):
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5476/31035477400_408c1a32db_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5786/31035526830_b47af1e181_c.jpg)
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Drilling the first bolt:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5601/31035488330_9bf9170aed_c.jpg)
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We worked again today with clink but still didn't quite get finished - we are close!
Brad should have some good shots of clink since I spent most of my time today belaying.
Brad drilling bolt 5
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/36394458234_c340b655f2_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47td)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4421/36394457364_d5c2eaf018_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47dd)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4426/37059854432_af8b47bd68_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsRrzs)
Me drilling bolt 7
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4415/36394457264_442529776d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47bu)
clink got in bolts 8 and 9. It sounds like the anchor may be next...just a bit higher.
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These nuts roped me in despite my knowing full well that these are the same two guys who climbed on Flies on a Pile. The roulette aspect of the route diminished each time the designated masochist went up for a new bolt. Out of my comfort zone but a rewarding experience nevertheless.
Brad was needing stuff, he trailed a rope to enable the procurement of various items. While sending up a socket, sling, or biners, JC moved upwards causing Brad to suddenly drop a couple of feet, causing spontaneous excitement. ;D
We were uncertain of the end of route but the rock outside the chute at the top was relatively solid with big holds allowing a cool exit onto the headwall at the top. 12 feet to go?
Thanks guys for the invite.
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...allowing a cool exit onto the headwall at the top.
Not just cool, really cool:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5688/31322960461_cd9deacbf8_c.jpg)
Meanwhile, 100 feet up and right, these guys were waiting for a mistake:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5704/31068387860_5dd22c310a_c.jpg)
Thanks guys for the invite.
Any time.
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Brad was needing stuff, he trailed a rope to enable the procurement of various items. While sending up a socket, sling, or biners, JC moved upwards causing Brad to suddenly drop a couple of feet, causing spontaneous excitement. ;D
Brad was kind enough to demonstrate a proper attentive belay later while I was drilling.(photo by clink) :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/37059856802_a1b87650a2_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsRshj)
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P.S. In my defense - Brad already had the bolt in, partially tightened and clipped.
I had an unwelcome thrill when the main knob I was hanging on to drill started disintegrating right in front of my eyes. It started spontaneously fracturing like thin ice in a cartoon and the bottom half fell away. In horror and a bit panicked, I started searching for something else to sling above me and all the available choices were loose. Luckily there was still one good knob just above the one that failed, so I went all in on that one and managed to finish the bolt.
We all had a thrill later when clink was up high drilling from a taxing stemming stance with the wind howling and a condor flew right over his head!
No pic of that but how bout one of clink in that stance?
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Brad was kind enough to demonstrate a proper attentive belay later while I was drilling.(photo by clink) :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/37059856802_a1b87650a2_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsRshj)
Damn, busted. But, after all, I was just learning on the job....
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...no pic of that but how bout one of clink in that stance?
I've got a few of him drilling in that stance. They'll have to wait until I get home though.
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P.S. In my defense - Brad already had the bolt in, partially tightened and clipped.
Yeah, J.C. stood up while I was on tension through his Gri Gri. Simulated fall :o
I had an unwelcome thrill when the main knob I was hanging on to drill started disintegrating right in front of my eyes. It started spontaneously fracturing like thin ice in a cartoon and the bottom half fell away. In horror and a bit panicked, I started searching for something else to sling above me and all the available choices were loose. Luckily there was still one good knob just above the one that failed, so I went all in on that one and managed to finish the bolt.
Normal people would downclimb to regroup if/when a slung knob starts to disintegrate while in use.
Not our bull-near-a-red-flag J.C. He started by throwing the chunks of disintegrated knob off in disgust. Then he charged HIGHER to rest. I tried to stay calm as I insisted that he downclimb for at least a short time to regroup (and, surprise, surprise, he actually listened to me!).
All part of the excitement.
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Yeah, J.C. stood up while I was on tension through his Gri Gri. Simulated fall :o
I tried to stay calm as I insisted that he downclimb for at least a short time to regroup (and, surprise, surprise, he actually listened to me!).
All part of the excitement.
Yes...you stayed calm in both instances. Not me. I get tourette's when I am on lead.
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Is this near a climb that Brad, Mud and I did on the high peaks trail from Juniper side?
No specifics required, just wondering out loud.
Looks intriguing, but tales of loose rock? I'm going back to Twinkle Toes for awhile.
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Is this near a climb that Brad, Mud and I did on the high peaks trail from Juniper side?
No specifics required, just wondering out loud.
Looks intriguing, but tales of loose rock? I'm going back to Twinkle Toes for awhile.
No, no-where near Operation Pinnacles Freedom. We haven't redpointed it yet, so no description here (and you weren't asking me for one). Call me or email if you want to know right where it is.
And the amount of loose rock is about normal for a new Pinns route. It's got a lot of good rock that is staying put, it's steep for the grade, it's a longer route (end point will be at about 85 feet?), the finish is even steeper (and exposed), and it's in a very, very scenic spot. Although it isn't done yet, I'm thinking at least one star, maybe two.
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Yes...you stayed calm in both instances. Not me. I get tourette's when I am on lead.
That is so wrong and I'm still laughing.
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(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5592/31068395040_c0abb9e865_c.jpg)
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He looks like he's levitating at that stance - what a weird aspect compared to what I could see from my belay position - brings to mind the baby butt wipes from the other thread :lol: :ciappa:
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And the amount of loose rock is about normal for a new Pinns route. It's got a lot of good rock that is staying put, it's steep for the grade, it's a longer route (end point will be at about 85 feet?), the finish is even steeper (and exposed), and it's in a very, very scenic spot. Although it isn't done yet, I'm thinking at least one star, maybe two.
Sorry but we'll have to agree to disagree on this one.
Of all the new routes I've been in on in the last couple years this rates at the bottom of the list for rock quality.
It is surprisingly bad for being in a water streak.
I have never seen such a poor degree/lack of cementation in some of the rock along the sides - which luckily isn't necessary for upward progress. The band of "good" rock is extremely narrow and even a good percentage of that is bad or suspect. In some spots it is like a pile of sand with cobblestones sitting in it.
Some of the movement is interesting and the location is nice but I would say no stars. No way.
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After questioning Brad about the "rock quality" factor on star routes at Pinns I am beginning to understand (he is crazy) that rock quality is not necessarily a must for a star. The "5.7" section on the first part of your route was weird with side pulls and pinches. I felt as insecure on it as on early ascents of Balconies chutes. The climbing is moderate, gets steep and puzzling. Exiting the chute was (like) cool (really). It is fairly well protected but because it ungulates you could bust an ankle on the crux.
I thought about the whole experience today, the hike in and out, listening to you two's banter, seeing Climberdude rope soloing across the little valley, going down by myself to check out the pretty or precious stones cliff, and the close encounter with the curious condor.
"Juke Box Hero"
Standing in the rain, with his head hung low
Couldn't get a ticket, it was a sold out show
Heard the roar of the crowd, he could picture the scene
Put his ear to the wall, then like a distant scream
He heard one guitar, just blew him away
He saw stars in his eyes, and the very next day
Bought a beat up six string in a secondhand store
Didn't know how to play it, but he knew for sure
That one guitar, felt good in his hands
Didn't take long, to understand
Just one guitar, slung way down low
Was one way ticket, only one way to go
So he started rockin'
Ain't never gonna stop
Gotta keep on rockin'
Someday he's gonna make it to the top
And be a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
He's a juke box hero
He took one guitar, juke box hero, stars in his eyes
Juke box hero, he'll come alive tonight
In a town without a name, in a heavy downpour
Thought he passed his own shadow, by the backstage door
Like a trip through the past, to that day in the rain
And that one guitar made his whole life change
Now he needs to keep rockin'
He just can't stop
Gotta keep on rockin'
That boy has got to stay on top
And be a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
He's a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
Yeah, juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
With that one guitar he'll come alive
Come alive tonight
Yeah, he's gotta keep rockin'
He just can't stop
Gotta keep on rockin'
That boy has got to stay on top
And be a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
He's a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
Just one guitar, put stars in his eyes
He's just a juke box hero, aah aah aah
Juke box hero, juke box hero, he's got stars in his eyes
Stars in his eyes
Get Waldo's opinion.
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Replace the star system with the little guy from the chronicle movie reviews. He could be asleep or clapping ecstatically . Just add some rock projectiles raining down on him when needed.
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After questioning Brad about the "rock quality" factor on star routes at Pinns I am beginning to understand(he is crazy) that rock quality is not necessarily a must for a star. The "5.7" section on the first part of your route was weird with side pulls and pinches. I felt as insecure on it as on early ascents of Balconies chutes. The climbing is moderate, gets steep and puzzling. Exiting the chute was (like) cool(really). It is fairly well protected but because it ungulates you could bust an ankle on the crux.
I thought about the whole experience today, the hike in and out, listening to you two's banter, seeing Climberdude rope soloing across the little valley, going down by myself to check out the pretty or precious stones cliff, and the close encounter with the curious condor.
Thanks for the input clink but you never said if you think it is star worthy.
I like your use of ungulates - you old goat.
I think rock quality should definitely be a factor.
I look at that plus interesting movement/challenge/excitement, exposure, fun factor. Sometimes things like uniqueness of a formation or a great summit come into play but those should be secondary imo.
An argument could be made for Barber Pole based on length, challenging moves, exposure and definitely a cool summit. If Hoof It gets a star then so does Barber Pole imo. No way either of them should get more than one and based on overall rock quality, Barber Pole is a better candidate. Tough call. Gut reaction is neither gets a star.
I am requisitioning for a name change - On a Hoof and a Prayer (since Hoof It was my name anyway)
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I am requisitioning for a name change - On a Hoof and a Prayer
That's How the Feta Crumbles
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Quested for Mud with Brad and Jon today to celebrate Brad's birthday. We finished the climb and Brad and I both led it. I got the coveted 2nd ascent without having to snake anyone! :lol:
clink got another new line started before we had to beat the darkness. We all had a fun day.
Brad heads up for the redpoint of Hoof It 5.8*
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4411/37059853982_cd388401c3_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsRrrG)
Brad finding a good spot for the anchor
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4334/36394457754_654a345d9f_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47jW)
clink gets the new line going - we'll call it Shades of David Spade for now
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/37059901422_377cf3f400_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsRFxC)
and this is for Brad from the cultural attache - Eyegor choosing the brain of Hans Delbruck
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4414/36394529264_c12eab49b5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs4tzS)
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Nice line for a nice bday day! HBD!
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Nice line for a nice bday day!
Yes it was Munge, warm and dry. Last Sunday the chute was dripping and Brad managed to make it up a few bolts before bailing. At this point I suggested the name of Wet Thwarts, but he wouldn't deviate from Hoof It. Looking at the forecast Brad decided to do a one day blast. Meet in Prunedale at 11am, hike to base of climb by 1ish, back to Prunedale by 6pm. I don't know if you have noticed but some days Brad climbs with finesse and others like a gorilla. His anchor was artistic.
On the hike in JC and Brad pointed out a cherry section of rock they had found. We had enough time to taste test it on the way out. So good! Looks like Gavin territory to the right.
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Nice line for a nice bday day! HBD!
It was. The rock had almost totally dried out - just a hint of damp in a couple spots. The line ended up climbing pretty nice. It is committing to get to the first bolt - 5.6 or 7 (somewhat height dependent). I think we all agreed that it has two distinct cruxes - getting past the first bolt and then again between 5 and 6. I thought they were about equal in difficulty(5.7) but Brad and clink both thought the upper one was 5.8. It has some pretty interesting movement and nice stemming in a couple spots. The moves to bolt 8 provide exposure and some cool holds - followed by a fun path to the last bolt and then the anchor. The anchor is in a nice spot and equalized perfectly. 90 feet of climbing. The overall rock quality could be better but there are enough good holds between the questionable stuff. It keeps your attention from bottom to top with some nice rests.
Anchor on Hoof It His anchor was artistic.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4331/36394457094_193b72c909_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs478y)
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clink's post makes me want to delete mine :lol: :biggrin:
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Nice work, gang. I think I remember looking at this area with Brad earlier in the year, especially where clink is drilling in the photo. I'll have to revisit with folks in 2017!
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...I don't know if you have noticed but some days Brad climbs with finesse and others like a gorilla. His anchor was artistic.
What can I say? Sometimes you feel like a nut, sometimes you don't.
It has a lot to do with whether I've warmed up and how cold it is outside.
Yesterday? Yesterday I didn't feel a day over 56 :P
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...and this is for Brad from the cultural attache - Eyegor choosing the brain of Hans Delbruck
It is unbelievable to me that you would remember this. And very impressive.
After the J.C.s got into my car to finish the drive I listened to a last bit of a "Hardcore History" podcast by Dan Carlin (the podcast was "Wrath of the Khans," about Ghengis Khan - highly, highly recommended!).
During the five minutes I listened, the podcast referred to an opinion about the mongols by Hans Delbruck, a respected historian from the 1800s (the podcast called him "brilliant" I think).
J.C. heard the reference and then immediately said something like: "Hans Delbruck. Isn't his the brain that Eyegor doesn't take in the movie Young Frankenstein?" Totally out of the blue.
His reference above shows that yes, that was the brain Eyegor did not take. Wow, cultural attache indeed! Cultural attache extrordinaire is more like it.
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While the analytical portion of JC's brain is almost average, the storage capacity behind that forehead must be immense. :D
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While the analytical portion of JC's brain is almost average, the storage capacity behind that forehead must be immense. :D
I guess my analytical skills parallel my footwork.
Oh and by the way...DIE
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Brad works on Hoof It anchor
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4397/36394457654_a1b62c0218_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47id)
clink follows Hoof It
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4399/36394457444_392f2e7378_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs47eA)
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Rainy day...anchors away :lol: :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4353/37089188471_b6464d33eb_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YvrMyK)
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Making chains for snow trecking on the unicycle?
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Making chains for snow trecking on the unicycle?
That new helmet makes you look like you have juvenile horns Mr Satyr :lol: :out: :yesnod: :ihih: :devildevil:
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So good! Looks like Gavin territory to the right.
What am I? Chopped Liver?
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Not the route you showed me. Right of where I bouldered Dumdum.
Sunny forecast, we are going to have to get on that good rock Cookie.
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Not the route you showed me. Right of where I bouldered Dumdum.
Sunny forecast, we are going to have to get on that good rock Cookie.
Let's go.
No rain today.
The forecast is that Santa Choss is comin' to town :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Let's go.
No rain today.
The forecast is that Santa Choss is comin' to town :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
Now, um, what am I chopped liver? I spotted the line first and I'm in on the FA. Pick a day on the 28th or later and we'll go then.
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Santa Choss
Twas the night before Christmas and all about the Park,
Noal and Mud were still climbing,
an hour after dark.
All of the other climbers were listening for meal numbers being called at the Super Taqueria,
Mud refuses to eat there,
it gives him ...
Merry Christmas y'all!
JC, ever heard of the 12 days of stealing Brad's routes? You distract him while I grab the white legal pad inscibed with his secret list.>:D
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it gives him ...
Duuude - that belly laugh was better than any present! :lol: :lol: :lol:
JC, ever heard of the 12 days of stealing Brad's routes?
You distract him while I grab the white legal pad inscibed with his secret list.>:D
We only have 3 days starting tomorrow... :eeeek: :devildevil:
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Dats alotta chain
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clink working on bolt 1 of Mr Mud Goes to Washington
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4345/36834532810_acd0d1fd03_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7WBiU)
Geoff takes a break while working on bolt 2
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/36834533410_61161aa132_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7WBuf)
Should we change the name to Scout Peek?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4397/37041876976_e2951eb6d8_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yrgivj)
beano leads The Best Part of Wakin Up
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4429/37089265671_32ffce5e7d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YvsbvM)
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Is that Resurrection backside?
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Is that Resurrection backside?
Nope. Piedras Bonitas and beano is on Coffee Can
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bolts need to be higher!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
; )
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Mud, but what counts is that your nearly death and maiming routes are in view from Mr. Mud Goes to Washington.
Also, when the cat's away...
Bolt three is in, the crack and chimney may be in reach, or not.
:)
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gotta love those Pinnacles chimneys, they are something special.
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Saw a couple folks on their way to Crud and Mud today.
clink did most of the talking up ahead of us on the trail.
Here's mud in your eye!
We went to the hinterlands and had some fun.
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We went to The Hinterlands and had some fun.
Exploring, roulette, a few bolts, pin and tricam placements. Found about 8 route possibilities along the base of a formation. Slabs on left to knobs on right.
Noal, Mud and Gavin's names were mentioned a few times as we walked under steeper(not 5.9) areas.
Primrose Pinnacle fit the description perfectly. Brad, Jim and Joel found a Pinnacles pinnacle.
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Primrose Pinnacle fit the description perfectly. Brad, Jim and Joel found a Pinnacles pinnacle.
It is a cool climb.
The start moves are extremely exposed.
True and felt like the fun kind of exposure.
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You did look like a toddler having playtime
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You did look like toddler having playtime
Maybe it was the swaddling nature of your cuddly belay :lol:
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I've been away from the forums for a while, so it's nice to see that all y'all are still up to the usual shenanigans! Definitely missing Pinnacles looking at your pictures as I huddle inside during the snow and cold of Northern Colorado. It's supposed to be warmish this weekend though, so maybe I'll be able to get outside climbing finally - can't let you guys have all of the fun in California! ;)
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I've been away from the forums for a while, so it's nice to see that all y'all are still up to the usual shenanigans! Definitely missing Pinnacles looking at your pictures as I huddle inside during the snow and cold of Northern Colorado. It's supposed to be warmish this weekend though, so maybe I'll be able to get outside climbing finally - can't let you guys have all of the fun in California! ;)
Duuuuuude. I'll post some pics tomorrow.
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Hey Scott! Great to have you check in!
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beano leads the Anvil
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4379/36831177630_349fe915c0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7DpVY)
beano and KC – It was THIS BIG!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/36831551940_92542c6de8_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7FkcA)
Narrowly escaping the clutches of a rampaging beano
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4416/36831175660_0d2221247f_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7Dpm1)
beano leads Pipsqueak
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4381/36414871783_c464be05b4_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtRJGX)
Check out the differences in our climbing styles on Primrose Pinnacle (me, then clink)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4395/36831551490_313af05112_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7Fk4Q)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4425/36414871323_0f5ea8c796_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtRJz2)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4374/36831551080_0e1da36453_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7FjWL)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4340/36414870993_bfc39e0c3e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtRJtk)
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Most excellent! I feel like I'm right there with you...minus the second picture that is. I can skip that one (so big and scary!). =)
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Good times, Cookies!
More crud, once this rain lets up!!
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JC had his back to the camera for all the Primrose shots. Hiding a stupid grin no doubt.
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JC had his back to the camera for all the Primrose shots. Hiding a stupid grin no doubt.
Watch who you are calling stupid boy :ihih: :devildevil:
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Good times, Cookies!
More crud, once this rain lets up!!
Ready to go. Rain Rain Go Away.
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Kat and I went to the Toes yesterday.
We climbed the South Toe and then I replaced the lead bolt and the anchor.
Here is what the NWS calls a mostly sunny day
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4421/37086192561_16287d9df7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YvbqZ8)
Here is the old anchor. Notice the homemade hanger and huge space under the allen drop-in bolt. Whoever rapped off this bolt last used up one of their cat lives.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4336/37038563226_9e9a9d6b6b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YqYjrG)
Someone added an anchor bolt. As far as I could tell, it is a stainless sleeve bolt with a no name brand stainless hanger. It had a 3/8 screw link and a carbon steel rap ring. I loosened it and rotated the hanger to equalize with my ASCA replacement bolt and tightened it back down. It was flush and tight, so I decided it should be okay with my replacement bolt. If anyone knows anything about it, it would be nice to know the history. I added a screwlink and single link of chain to my bolt.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/37057454532_d4c0eb02cb_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsD9aS)
After I replaced the anchor I decided to replace the lead bolt. The lead bolt is three quarters of the way up the route, not about halfway up as stated in the guidebook. It was a short 3/8 star dryvin with the sleeves incorrectly installed under the Leeper hanger. The nail came out with almost no effort after getting it started with the tuning fork. The sleeves and lead sleeve slipped out easily, all in one piece.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4366/36831175140_d2e74c6663_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7Dpc3)
I plan to go back and rebolt the anchor on the North Toe on our next trip out.
I could only see one old bolt on the North summit with a piece of tied cord and an old oval biner.
The hanger looks like a Leeper.
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Kat, beano and I climbed and rebolted North Toe today.
I'll post more details and some pics later.
Beauty of a day with many condors giving us a show throughout the day.
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Kat, beano and I climbed and rebolted North Toe today.
I'll post more details and some pics later.
Beauty of a day with many condors giving us a show throughout the day.
Here's a couple pics from yesterday.
The climbing for the North Toe is the same as the South Toe route up to the only protection bolt.
Things get interesting when you turn about face and commit to the North Toe's face.
I'm still quite a few chimney moves below the only bolt – North Toe/South Toe - thanks to beanolar for getting this pic.
You can scroll back two posts to my labeled pic to see where the bolt is. Neither of the gals wanted to lead this climb.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4361/36831175410_af07b239fb_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7DpgG)
beano doing the Toe jam – this is the squeeziest squeeze chimney we’ve done in a while
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4359/37038562426_33f7436896_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YqYjcU)
KC follows North Toe – I thought this was a scary lead because the only protection bolt is across on the South Toe (behind you) and way below you by the time you are doing the crux moves on the North Toe's face. The crux moves on the North Toe also depend on a single good knob (her right hand is on it) providing you are willing to go all in. If that sucker ever breaks, the climb will be a lot harder. My exact words were - If this knob goes, I'm gone. This is another Pinns no fall route. It deserves an R imo.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4369/36831176470_8fb2110521_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7DpzY)
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OMG FUN climb!! Too bad it's too scary to lead, at least for this bean. Glad John took the bullet for us, and swapped out the old junky hw. We need more chimneys!!
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Chimneys hmmmmm.......get JC to climb OCD Overdrive with you. It has one of his favorite chimneys.
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Athletes toe jam ;D
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Chimneys hmmmmm.......get JC to climb OCD Overdrive with you. It has one of his favorite chimneys.
Duuuuude :lol:
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Athletes toe jam ;D
You don't have to jam toes but just about everything else. It is tough getting through that squeeze. Even my harness waist belt was catching and my back loop. Put what little bit of gear you need on the left side or you're sunk.
beano tried the rap line on North Toe on TR.
clink - you should unlock the sequence and get it clean for the TR FA of Toe Cheese :lol: :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin: :puke:
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I developed a bad toothache today but I have a plan to get rid of it soon. :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :yikes:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4434/37038456996_29544d2368_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YqXLS9)
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I shared a Mud Bath today with Brad.
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I shared a Mud Bath today with Brad.
Kat and I got in after they got out :yikes:
Brad and clink proceeded to get Squeaky Clean, followed that up by rolling around in Ashes and topped it off by buffing it out to an adamantine finish :lol:
P.S. POW!!!
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JC left a ring.
Mud Bath was well worth the wait and the effort. Crazy good rock! It was enjoyable to watch JC and KC, who could have been in on the FA but opted for the second ascent, climbing it while we did their route Squeaky Clean, which also has excellent rock.
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Brad's second bolt of the day was an awkward, bend to the side, and drill with your left hand, because the rock at shoulder height and up from the stance wasn't premium sounding. He had to down climb to the previous bolt many times to unkink, great effort. Where were Jim, Steve or Caleb when you need them? My stances were cushy.
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Mud Bath was well worth the wait and the effort. It was enjoyable to watch JC and KC, who could have been in on the FA but opted for the second ascent, climbing it while we did their route Squeaky Clean, which also has excellent rock.
Thanks for the invite but I needed a summit and a mellow day with KC.
Mud Bath is a fine addition to the crag.
Pow! is done and from what we could see today Brad finished Boom! as well.
Trouble at Rubble continues to confound and perplex.
Spent a nice day with Waldo and Kat.
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Onomatopoeia Pinnacle
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4396/36413625743_8e7db477e9_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtKmiv)
Pow! Starts on an exposed knobby face next to a protectable crack, goes past a short headwall (and a bolt), and finishes with optional sling knobs on very low angle slab. This was my drill stance.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4355/36390824484_e5c286f7ee_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrJuhm)
View from the summit of Pow!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4373/37056324342_6c88e77884_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsxmcQ)
Clink working on the last bolt on Mud Bath
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4423/37085430291_815492e9be_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yv7wox)
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JC left a ring.
Ewwwww!
It was enjoyable to watch JC and KC, who could have been in on the FA but opted for the second ascent, climbing it while we did their route Squeaky Clean, which also has excellent rock.
I watched J.C. lead Mud Bath from above (I was on rappel and just hanging out). I gotta say, it really was a pleasure to watch; at an age when many of his peers use canes just to walk, he floats up Pinnacles rock so smoothly. Truly a master of his medium.
(And I can make the comment about age because I am right, right behind him in years.)
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Brad - I heard you popped in a bolt, made a few moves and Boom! you were done. :lol:
One more of Pow!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/36390824184_d523c5564d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrJucb)
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You do have a certain capacity to crack yourself up.
One exclamation point or two?
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You do have a certain capacity to crack yourself up.
One exclamation point or two?
One seems to be the standard.
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You do have a certain capacity to crack yourself up.
I went up and right from the end of the crack to get on the slab.
It looked like you could also go out and left - then up on knobs - but it didn't flow as naturally that way from where I was after placing the bolt.
Was Boom! any fun?
I see you dropped Party Crasher a grade.
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I went up and right from the end of the crack to get on the slab.
It looked like you could also go out and left - then up on knobs - but it didn't flow as naturally that way from where I was after placing the bolt.
Was Boom! any fun?
I see you dropped Party Crasher a grade.
Man, you're fast. Pop quiz: what other route on the list did I make a change to this morning?
Working on the Boom! description (and all the others). The first sentence to the Boom! description will be something like: "The only redeeming quality of this route is the tremendous exposure of the first moves." Or something like that.
I could see on Pow! going up and right, but I went left and then up. Both seem like they would be about the same. I thought maybe about giving the route an "R," but the sling knobs above (at least three possibilities) really were good to pretty good. So probably not an "R?"
Will I be hearing anything about how your Sunday went?
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I see you dropped Party Crasher a grade.
BTW, I led this with Laura following (Cover Girl). But I failed to read my own route description about the gear size and so I had stuff that was too small to use. But I was able to sling two good knobs and one great knob before going over the headwall. After climbing the route, I'm quite sure that the "party crashers" climbed the same path.
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Man, you're fast. Pop quiz: what other route on the list did I make a change to this morning?
I'll guess - Unlikely-looking bulge on Mud Diamond?
Working on the Boom! description (and all the others). The first sentence to the Boom! description will be something like: "The only redeeming quality of this route is the tremendous exposure of the first moves." Or something like that.
I could see on Pow! going up and right, but I went left and then up. Both seem like they would be about the same. I thought maybe about giving the route an "R," but the sling knobs above (at least three possibilities) really were good to pretty good. So probably not an "R?"
I thought you might go left. It's pretty enticing. I think the right variation might be slightly harder, based on the size of the holds. It felt natural to continue up the ramp as the crack pinches out and then transition onto the slab (5.4?) Those knobs out left are really big. Were they solid? There is also a really good sling knob to the right of my stance for the bolt. I thought about just going with that and not placing the bolt. In the end I felt it would be irresponsible given the exposure and fall potential. I think the bolt is right where you want it.
I just couldn't bring myself to place another bolt on that low angle terrain above and wasn't convinced the moves were hard enough to warrant an R (close call). Kat didn't want to lead it. I am not sure either of those two lower knobs would hold a fall. The last/higher one would but you are almost touching the top by then. Take another look at my pics and you can see my slings.
Will I be hearing anything about how your Sunday went?
Not much to report. Lots of PO up there on the lower approach path.
I turned back and no one else even wanted to go down there.
The two big towers are easy to get to but still looked very unappealing and no one was feeling it.
We could see you on Ono.
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I'll guess - Unlikely-looking bulge on Mud Diamond?
Nice try. Nope, I changed the Merry Poppins description a little since I walked by it on Sunday.
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^^^^
Funny though, the two guys you sent to Crudn'Mud on Sunday agreed wholeheartedly with that part of the Mud Diamond description (as you'll see once I get the new routes up, I climbed with them yesterday). They looked up at that bulge and thought "no way." They were tickled as hell at how it then climbed.
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I thought you might go left. It's pretty enticing. I think the right variation might be slightly harder, based on the size of the holds. It felt natural to continue up the ramp as the crack pinches out and then transition onto the slab (5.4?) Those knobs out left are really big. Were they solid? There is also a really good sling knob to the right of my stance for the bolt. I thought about just going with that and not placing the bolt. In the end I felt it would be irresponsible given the exposure and fall potential. I think the bolt is right where you want it.
I just couldn't bring myself to place another bolt on that low angle terrain above and wasn't convinced the moves were hard enough to warrant an R (close call). Kat didn't want to lead it. I am not sure either of those two lower knobs would hold a fall. The last/higher one would but you are almost touching the top by then.
We thought 5.3 was just right. And the bolt is in the right place. Without the one bolt, a broken hold could result in a 60 foot fall from halfway up a 35 foot route (off the cliff face to the right). One bolt is just the correct number for that climb.
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Not much to report. Lots of PO up there on the lower approach path.
I turned back and no one else even wanted to go down there.
The two big towers are easy to get to but still looked very unappealing and no one was feeling it.
Did you get anything climbed at all?
Should I take a research/rebolting day and go up there with you? If so should we wait until next season (when the P.O. is dormant)?
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Rubles in the Rubble.
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Rubles in the Rubble.
I saw no rubies, just rubble. I need to hear how Brad got up and down that thing without crashing!
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I saw no rubies, just rubble. I need to hear how Brad got up and down that thing without crashing!
I checked my journal. I'd thought I did those near Thanksgiving of 1996 (because I recall hiking up there with Vicki and Katie and Katie was in the kiddie pack). It was actually November 23, 1997 (so Katie would have been just two years old). I have no memory of those routes.
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I have no memory of those routes.
And actually, I do recall a few things. Being surprised at how easy the approach was (from above). Carriage bolts for anchors on one (?) of the Teeth (no hangers if I recall - I later saw similar aid bolts on The Shaft). I remember doing the Teeth first and saving the 5.7 for last. Free soloing that with a backpacked rope on my back wasn't too bad, but committing to the rappel on whatever the anchor was at the top of that really frightened me (but I didn't have much choice at that point).
I also recall the film canister I found (I think on one of the Teeth). The notes were so fragile that they started cracking when I tried to unroll them. Rather than put them back, I brought them home and photo-copied them. I may have those copies around somewhere, but I'm not sure where.
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I didn't expect to get any insight into the area but thanks for looking.
It looks like it is my choss to bear.
Noal will like the tat that is on the West Tooth - looks like the same thing he found at Knifeblade.
I still need to go back there too.
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Hemp Noose. Can you post up a photo of that thing? It's super cool.
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Hemp Noose. Can you post up a photo of that thing? It's super cool.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4362/37056986732_670646138a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsAK7m)
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Would you rappell off of that even when it was new?
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Suitable as a gift at a coming out party for your skeleton.
Bone Voyage.
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4362/37056986732_670646138a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsAK7m)
Reminds me a an actual noose randomly hanging from a tree up on the third tier of Chipmunk Flat's Third Buttress. It's the weirdest thing; it made the hair on the back of my neck stand out.
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It may catch on as a defendant's tie in death penalty cases, to play on jury sympathy.
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Damn you J.C., you plant a bug and I end up wasting an entire evening. I found them!! They were in the attic in a huge box marked "Pinnacles Guidebook, notes and redundant stuff."
Here are photocopies of the notes I made just after I climbed the Rubble Wall routes (I sent my originals to David Rubine, author of the then most current Pinnacles guidebook):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2896/33592173436_97e8839491_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3783/33249409630_7443a92805_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3845/33249410940_2ac4bd57a3_b.jpg)
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(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2866/33249411760_ffeeda19c5_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2929/33249412370_e9ae4cd5c1_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2822/33249413110_483a6f1811_b.jpg)
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And J.C., look at the fourth page where I crossed out "loose pillar" and wrote "shoulder." Why did I do that (who the hell knows)? Maybe I should have left it as it was?
Notice too that I renamed the teeth (in the '07 book) from Rubine's guide into "directional" names that were consistent with what the first ascent party used.
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What was your drug of choice? It is truly a miracle that you have thus far survived 1,000 Pinns routes.
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almost all those routes were kind of scary. I towed a rope but did not really have a chance to use it much. good views though
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What was your drug of choice? It is truly a miracle that you have thus far survived 1,000 Pinns routes.
And don't forget the ultimate irony of my climbing career: The only time I got well and truly creamed was while climbing on Yosemite Valley granite.
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almost all those routes were kind of scary. I towed a rope but did not really have a chance to use it much. good views though
I didn't know you'd done those. When? Back in the olden days when you routinely soloed lots of Pinns routes? (It's hard to believe that you were even crazier back in the day than you are now.)
J.C. has a stubborn streak (well NOOOOO sh#t). I suspect we'll be hearing about new (as in replacement) bolts and anchors and maybe even new routes up there in the near future....
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I didn't know you'd done those. When? Back in the olden days when you routinely soloed lots of Pinns routes? (It's hard to believe that you were even crazier back in the day than you are now.)
Soon after his asylum escape. Who knows what other history you share :)
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And J.C., look at the fourth page where I crossed out "loose pillar" and wrote "shoulder." Why did I do that (who the hell knows)? Maybe I should have left it as it was?
Notice too that I renamed the teeth (in the '07 book) from Rubine's guide into "directional" names that were consistent with what the first ascent party used.
It is definitely a loose pillar and not a shoulder. Standing on top of it to commit to the face with no pro looks terrifying.
Maybe it looks worse than it is - yeah right.
The note about Incisor confirms that you go to the end of the slot and then around and on to the east face/blunt arete - exactly as I suspected.
The notes about the bolts on the West Tooth lead me to believe that there are two and the bolt I can see with the tat is the anchor, even though it is not quite on the top - it is pretty darn close. That would also make sense based on the way the true top looks. The lead bolt probably can't be seen until you are closer and actually in the notch.
I don't think you would have said halfway up in reference to that bolt with the tat.
Thanks for digging that stuff out and taking the time to post it. Really cool to see the history. :yesnod: :thumbup:
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Soon after his asylum escape. Who knows what other history you share :)
Man, you're in rare form tonight.
I can just see you drinking chocolate milk and making Martha wonder what the hell it is you keep chuckling about at the computer.
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I didn't know you'd done those. When? Back in the olden days when you routinely soloed lots of Pinns routes? (It's hard to believe that you were even crazier back in the day than you are now.)
J.C. has a stubborn streak (well NOOOOO sh#t). I suspect we'll be hearing about new (as in replacement) bolts and anchors and maybe even new routes up there in the near future....
Yeah, I went up there a couple of time solo with the 9. I seem to remember one pinnacle was close to the plateau rock slab area. I really wanted to try and jump across but just could not quite get up the courage.
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Thanks for digging that stuff out and taking the time to post it. Really cool to see the history. :yesnod: :thumbup:
I also came across a stack of printed out emails from Jack Holmgren (about 1/4 inch thick!). I only glanced at them though since they weren't what I was looking for.
I skimmed over the one where I essentially beg him to just use the name David Rubine had assigned to one of his routes in the 1995 book (Rubine called it "Prelude"). Jack's email basically says "nope." The name was and is "You Climb That Hill No Matter How Steep But You Still Ain't Goin' Nowhere."
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...I really wanted to try and jump across but just could not quite get up the courage.
A rare display. Thank you for living to see another day....
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still wrestle with it, but yeah, probably best I did not go for it.
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To the few of you who pursue these particular routes, I reserve my highest admiration accompanied with a large helping of skepticism as to your sanity.
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I seem to remember one pinnacle was close to the plateau rock slab area. I really wanted to try and jump across but just could not quite get up the courage.
I looked at that too. Stick It!
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Hemp Noose. Can you post up a photo of that thing? It's super cool.
Bomber
And J.C., look at the fourth page where I crossed out "loose pillar" and wrote "shoulder." Why did I do that (who the hell knows)? Maybe I should have left it as it was?
I guess you didn't want to discourage anybody.
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almost all those routes were kind of scary. I towed a rope but did not really have a chance to use it much. good views though
For those in the audience that are Bicurious :lol: - this is the loose, outward-tilting pillar on Bicuspid.
It looks pretty good from this angle :yikes:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/891/40542641875_d6583a1ed0_z.jpg)
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I hope you aren't planning on any leaps next weekend .
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I hope you aren't planning on any leaps next weekend .
Hiking, climbing, drilling, no leaping :frown2: :nonod: :crazy: :out:
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KC and I headed out today to make the rounds.
We intended to climb False Flatiron, Boom! and Party Crasher.
We hiked up to False Flatiron via the Little Flatiron/Toadstool approach.
I climbed the new class 4 route first, slinging a few knobs along the way.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4344/37228713425_7c1f2ed0b9_o.jpg)
My wandering eye was checking out the slab to the left of the class 4 route and in particular a prominent hole about 2/3 of the way up. I thought about just climbing to that hole and putting in a bolt, but decided in the end to do a 2 bolt route.
EDIT - the first bolt was removed later (2-9-18) along with the only bolt on Pity the Fool (both routes are now R). We decided the bolts were just too close to the original 4th Class route.
Drilling the first bolt (removed on 2-9-18). Check out that hole up and left for the next stance. :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4393/37056584642_157af3ff6e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsyFzL)
The climb starts 3 feet left of the groove used for the class 4 route. Climb to a giant lodestone. A few moves get you into a prominent hole.
Working on the second bolt (now the first and only bolt).
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4340/36830688030_f0a5d268ed_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7AUoA)
Climb past the second bolt to the top, courtesy of some nice knobs and divots.
Here is KC at the second bolt, enjoying the coveted 2nd ascent and a salute to clink. :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4390/37228712815_7b25c8dfc9_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YHLThT)
Falsetto Slab 5.2R* :ihih:
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Yosomighty and Clink the wide angle ran up some classic beauties, Portant, Ordeal, Swallow and did the damp and mossy Piton Traverse route for the first time. Those pins are decaying.
Caleb pulled Ali Baba onsight without pumping off or z-clipping at the crux. Sinbad was a first for him as well. Showed up late and left by 3:30. Very unMud&Noallike of us, and quite civilized. We saw Beauty and the Orange Beast in the parking area and received the anticipated and now expected end of the day report Nice bunch of climbers out at Bear Gulch!
:)
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Falsetto Slab 5.2* :ihih:
And there's my silly record, shattered again. ;D ::)
It'll be a while too before I have a chance to catch it up. And no doubt meanwhile other nefarious spies and mudmasters will continue their good work....
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Yosomighty and clink the wide angle ran up some classic beauties, Portent, Ordeal, Swallow and did the damp and mossy Piton Traverse route for the first time. Those pins are decaying.
We saw Beauty and the Orange Beast in the parking area and received the anticipated and now expected end of the day report Nice bunch of climbers out at Bear Gulch!
Piton Traverse - what a cool climb. All you needed was knickers and hobnail boots :lol:
We talked to two lads on the way out and showed them the Regular Route on the Monolith. They were looking for something fun to finish their day. They had evidently been hanging with you guys earlier. They described you perfectly (with a little help from yours truly). :yesnod: :lol:
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And there's my silly record, shattered again. Grin Roll Eyes
Keeping "in status" is going to put some miles on you.
Piton Traverse - what a cool climb. All you needed was knickers and hobnail boots :lol:
Yes, and a rack of fresh replacement pins.
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Keeping "in status" is going to put some miles on you.
Yes, and a rack of fresh replacement pins.
It is our pleasure to buck any status quo. Maintaining the status quo would be like climbing at...well...you know where...:lol:
New pitons? That would be nice if you'd like to donate to the cause and place them professionally.
Roper also says you can protect Bicuspid with pitons. I don't see how.
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Keeping "in status" is going to put some miles on you.
I can think of worse ways to spend my time....
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Piton Traverse - what a cool climb. All you needed was knickers and hobnail boots :lol:
I miss my knickers.
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courtesy of waldo
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4377/36390824354_37d60fe3f3_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrJuf7)
:lol: :lol: :lol:
It's a bit upthread at this point
Brad - I heard you popped in a bolt, made a few moves and Boom! you were done. :lol:
One more of Pow!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/36390824184_d523c5564d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrJucb)
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for clink
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/37056013812_a58d3777d0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsvKTS)
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Thanks, the color needs photo shop though.
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I did an auto contrast - is the lilac better now?
for clink
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/37056013812_a58d3777d0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsvKTS)
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Hey guys, the conversation is taking a pretty shitty turn here....
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Hey guys, the conversation is taking a pretty shitty turn here....
Herchel Berchel
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that is a cool route.
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/37056013392_925a6e4e93_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsvKLC)
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So very cool!
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where
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where
In the Heart of Pinnacles :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Happy Birthday JC! You are petrifying well!
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Happy Birthday
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Happy Birthday!
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Happy Birthday JC! You are petrifying well!
Happy Birthday
Happy Birthday!
Thanks guys. I had a nice night out with Kat - pulled plastic for a bit, had a spicy pizza and a powerful ale at the local eatery followed by a hefty slice of Red Velvet cake from the Buttery here at home. Yum! :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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I'm always joking about Birdbrain Pinnacle and I remember Brad asked me one day not too long ago if I had actually been on top of it. I forgot that I had these pictures from the day I climbed it. Not the best angle since it is hidden behind the platform but valid nonetheless. The second picture shows how exposed it was that day when the res was waaaaaay down.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4365/36830173010_134e46aed1_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y7yghW)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4402/37085196421_e42018e068_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yv6jSi)
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When the res goes dry it will have to go from the base.
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Fun day out today.
We started the morning with an intense, old school Spasm, Crashed a Party after lunch and ended with a Grand Adventure :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
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new rating system
Res -1
Res -2
etc
for how many feet below the bathtub ring the ascent started.
with a W or D modifiers for a wet swim in, vs dry ascent.
For example,
Res -15, W, from the dam side. That would be proud.
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If said route is done, call it Frankly My Deer.
Meanwhile the Easter Bunny has been busy, the cat also left a large mouse on the steps.
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If said route is done, call it Frankly My Deer.
In the spirit of Get Off My Lawn, Silt the F Up. :lol:
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Looks like it may have been a good day to hit the High Peaks today.
Overcast and windy but no rain so far.
It has been raining pretty steadily here on the coast.
We had a nice breakfast with our climbing daughters (Rosie and Alex).
Looks like a lazy day and a good time to post some Crud.
It was busy yesterday with the free admission and holiday weekend.
We talked to some nice hikers and a few climbers :biggrin:
I have never worked so hard to get a climb done at Pinnacles. I estimated 15 times bouldering up and down this thing trying to unlock the sequence. Kat said it might have been closer to 20. It was awkward, balancy and burly all at the same time, on insecure key holds. After my first series of 5 or 6 attempts I rested and Kat took a turn.
Kat changes her shoes to take a crack at Spasm Block. She was soooo close to unlocking the sequence but couldn’t quite conjure up the oooomph or the nerve to pull through. I was very proud of her for trying.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/36390231634_5f799dee1a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrFs3N)
We kept looking at the holds and talking about it. What a great puzzle.
We are not boulderers.
I honestly did not think I could do it and then it happened.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4342/36390231204_147a6863bc_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrFrVo)
We headed back to Junction Rock and I led Party Crasher.
Kat got this weird shot of me testing and moving over to find the sling knobs after I placed 3 pieces of gear in the short section of horizontal. I got in a so so number 2 camalot, a pretty good .75 camalot and a slotted and buried green alien and equalized them. Moving past the sling knobs over the headwall was fun and is definitely the crux. A fall further up before the only bolt would be disastrous but the climbing through that section is easy, albeit filthy. :crazy:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4358/36390348744_6986c8c10d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrG3RW)
Kat decided to lead A Grand Adventure after she followed Party Crasher. She climbed solid and enjoyed the route.
We had a really fun day and the weather was great. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4372/37055657552_1fc4253b23_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstVZs)
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Looks like it may have been a good day to hit the High Peaks today.
Overcast and windy but no rain so far.
It has been raining pretty steadily here on the coast.
Mostly runny.
I showed up at noon and explored while it was dry and as soon as I began climbing up a line it started raining. Been a while getting slicked out. Nice saturated hike back.
We had a nice breakfast with our climbing daughters (Rosie and Alex).
Looks like a lazy day and a good time to post some Crud.
Sweet :)
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I showed up at noon and explored while it was dry and as soon as I began climbing up a line it started raining. Been a while getting slicked out. Nice saturated hike back.
I was chuckling after we talked, thinking about you standing up on those big knobs drilling a bolt in the rain :lol:
The rain gauge started tipping there at 3:30 and only lasted a couple hours, just enough to mess with you but obviously not enough to dampen your spirits :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Crack on Spasm Block
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4435/36390231434_329fccc9bc_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XrFrZm)
closeup of Crack on Spasm Block
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4428/37084720171_e79abb88dc_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yv3Ti6)
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5.7
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:)
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Needs bolts!
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Fighting my way past the trees on Pyramid Pinnacle
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4383/37055656992_6b4a734936_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstVPN)
Kat follows Pyramid Pinnacle
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4436/37227835545_7dc8bed24a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YHGovx)
rap off Pyramid Pinnacle
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4360/37055657242_efc654d580_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YstVU7)
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cool
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Heard on the radio today that some scientists published an article in Nature presenting evidence that neanderthals were in California 130,000 years ago. Of course they didn't bolt any routes back then but it sounds like they had fun smashing up the bones of a mastodon to suck out the marrow and use the splintered remains as pitons :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: .
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This topic doesn't neatly fit into any other threads (and it might not be worth its own). So I'm putting it here.
"They" say that Pinnacles is dangerous because of loose rock. Maybe it is. But at least loose rock at Pinnacles is usually too small to kill.
When I got creamed in 1999 it was because of a "50 or 100 pound block" that came off with me. This was in Yosemite Valley. On granite. The "good" rock. How often do blocks that size come off at Pinns?
Here's the latest from this last weekend at Tahquitz Rock (near Idyllwild in southern California). Tahquitz has great granite and great, great climbs. It's also one of the most historic climbing venues in our country. And I don't mean any criticism either. I'm merely making the point that climbing can be dangerous, rockfall is a well known danger, and Pinnacles rockfall may not be as big a threat to safety as rockfall in other areas. First a link to the Supertopo thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2971876/Tahquitz-Rockfall
Then quotes from some of the eyewitnesses who've posted on that thread (emphasis added and spelling corrected in places):
1. "...I was on Whodunit immediately adjacent to the rock fall incident. A climber was searching around at the top of the third pitch of Consolation for anchor placements when a golf cart/ mini cooper sized block gave way. The climber and a dozen or so rocks of various size fell. No parties were climbing below on Consolation; they surely would have been wiped off the face due to the sheer size of rock fall."
2. "Got word from the injured climber:
Fractured shoulder
Five broken ribs
Pierced lung
Going into reconstructive surgery for the shoulder tomorrow.
But he's in one piece."
3. "Unfortunately, there were two people right at the base when the rocks came flying down...my boyfriend and I had finished Long Climb earlier in the day and were back at the base retrieving our stashed gear before we hiked down. We got our stuff and had just started walking across the base towards the trail. The rest is kind of fuzzy...I thought I heard someone yell 'Rock!" and then suddenly my boyfriend screamed at me to RUN. By random chance, he happened to be watching the climber when he fell, so he immediately knew the severity of what was about to hit us in a few seconds. As I turned to run I glanced up for a split second and saw a lot of movement coming down the face right above us. Within seconds debris started whizzing past me. I dove between two smaller rocks and covered my head. My boyfriend made it behind a large boulder. I could hear the bigger rocks smashing around us."
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Jeremy broke a softball size hold off Pay Dirt this weekend and managed to stick. It missed me by a foot and clattered down the gully. He was incredibly quick at yelling rock.
That rockfall at Tahquitz was killer size. Glad the injuries weren't worse.
The scariest rock pile so far at Pinnacles Imo was the top of the flair Noal did by Meanderthal. It vibrated as you crossed over
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Brad - I can't believe you would desecrate our sacred Quest for Mud thread with a story from the Taco and worse yet about the it word I already banned you for. I'd say it is time for the Pillory or the Rack. :lol: :yesnod: :out: :prrr:
I pulled some humongous stuff off the new routes I did today.
I left one on Bare Bones that needs to be removed but I wanted it in the picture so I could show you where the bolt is.
You can't see the bolt from the ground but you can see the big white knob at the same height that is totally loose.
I had at least a half dozen lodestones big enough to kill or maim that were either just sitting there or disintegrated.
One partially fell apart when I brushed off the top :yikes:
I would have done a third route if it hadn't been so freakin hot.
I just looked it up on the park gauge and it hit 97 today.
It felt hotter.
It is supposed to be in the 60's this weekend so I'll be sure to establish as many new routes as I can :lol: :ihih: :devildevil:
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Brad - I can't believe you would desecrate our sacred Quest for Mud thread with a story from the Taco and worse yet about the it word I already banned you for. I'd say it is time for the Pillory or the Rack. :lol: :yesnod: :out: :prrr:
Not really a desecration. More of an explanation of why Pinns is better than its sometimes reputation.
I pulled some humongous stuff off the new routes I did today.
I left one on Bare Bones that needs to be removed but I wanted it in the picture so I could show you where the bolt is.
You can't see the bolt from the ground but you can see the big white knob at the same height that is totally loose.
I had at least a half dozen lodestones big enough to kill or maim that were either just sitting there or disintegrated.
One partially fell apart when I brushed off the top :yikes:
I would have done a third route if it hadn't been so freakin hot.
I just looked it up on the park gauge and it hit 97 today.
It felt hotter.
It is supposed to be in the 60's this weekend so I'll be sure to establish as many new routes as I can :lol: :ihih: :devildevil:
Pig. But it is nice to know that you're not laying out there somewhere turning into a raisin ;D
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I'd say it is time for the... Rack. :lol: :yesnod: :out: :prrr:
So you agree the time has come for granite cracks?
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A bit more medieval.
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So you agree the time has come for granite cracks?
First thought this warm morning was of the delicious tap water at your house. On a scale of 1 to 100 the Eastside drinking water fountain is a 23 and Young's Tap a 99. Westside is a 55. My house a 19. Crystal Geyser a 64. Arrowhead a 65.
Tecate from Waldo's cooler, a 100! Different category though.
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First thought this warm morning was of the delicious tap water at your house. On a scale of 1 to 100 the Eastside drinking water fountain is a 23 and Young's Tap a 99. Westside is a 55. My house a 19. Crystal Geyser a 64. Arrowhead e 65.
Tecate from Waldo's cooler, a 100! Different category though.
I couldn't get enough water yesterday.
I thought at least one of the routes I wanted to do would be in the shade but it was not to be.
By the time I topped out Two Bits I was really feeling it.
I managed to find a decent sized hollow/cubby on the side of the formation next to the one I was working on and that shade was a life saver.
I rested, recharged, drank sparingly and then went back up and drilled an anchor bolt.
Half and Half anchor on Two Bits
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4384/37212447385_ddc0974bd8_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkw9r)
Tromping along the CCC road I was melting fast and when I hit the shade on the descent to the Res the flies were waiting.
The high temps the last few days must have popped every pupa in the place.
It also caused a growth spurt in all the PO.
There are several spots along the Bear Gulch trail where you now have to bob and weave to keep from grazing it with your head or face.
The east side spigot was a welcome relief regardless of the taste.
I talked to a nice German couple while I was recuperating and tried to convince them to buy the guidebook, even though they would only be there for a few days.
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Nice anchor!
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Nice anchor!
I thought you might appreciate that :ihih: :yesnod: :thumbup:
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I nearly melted on Wednesday and today was supposed to be sunny and 60 so we headed back out to The Way Station.
It was cloudy and spitting a tiny bit of drizzle in the parking lot but we figured it would clear up as forecast.
WRONG!
The sun never came out, the wind was crazy and we froze our butts off.
Thank goodness we threw a puffy in for Kat and I wore my hoodie.
My fingers were half numb while I was drilling and at one point I thought the wind was going to blow me off the face.
I looked down and Kat was curled up in a ball trying to stay warm while I drilled.
I got another route done and then Kat led all 3 to make a less than ideal day fun.
We stopped by and said hey to some AAC folks on the way out.
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First thought this warm morning was of the delicious tap water at your house. On a scale of 1 to 100 the Eastside drinking water fountain is a 23 and Young's Tap a 99. Westside is a 55. My house a 19. Crystal Geyser a 64. Arrowhead e 65.
Tecate from Waldo's cooler, a 100! Different category though.
Nectar - though water has its uses.
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No questing for mud today :nonod: :frown2: :crying: but here are some pics from yesterday.
JC starts up Johnnycake
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/37022188276_0bf3b600db_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YpwoJY)
JC drilling bolt 1 on Johnnycake
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4414/37212444525_10c793b146_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkvi8)
Kat in the final stretches while leading the freshly cooked Johnnycake :smilewinkgrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4348/37212446955_7d221547bd_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkw22)
Kat moving past an excellent sling knob on her way to the only bolt on Bare Bones
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4361/37022189196_65c48a22a0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ypwp1Q)
Time to make some more herstory. Kat makes the first of several moves to get to the stance for bolt 1 on Two Bits.
The route turned out pretty fun. It may get a star :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4415/37212446335_d9976d5cf3_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkvQk)
Kat at the summit of her 100th lead at Pinns (Two Bits). Yes, that is 100 different routes led in good style. Time to start the next 100. :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4411/37022188986_5dacb0a2fc_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YpwoXd)
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It was cold yesterday. The sunshine came out at the end of the day but the wind never really died down. No Gavin sighting. We looked for the AAC group but did not find. One hang. Tips are toast.
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It was cold yesterday. The sunshine came out at the end of the day but the wind never really died down. No Gavin sighting. We looked for the AAC group but did not find. One hang. Tips are toast.
Didn't know you guys were there. I always look for Noal's RAV at your spot.
Yep, the sun came out just about the time we got back to the parking lot around 4:30. We could not get warm all day.
The wind at The Way Station was relentless.
I tried to get Kat to do another route with me on the way out but she wasn't buying.
We talked to a bunch from the AAC at Nailbox Crack on the way out and then went to the campsites (25 - 29) and hung out with Harrison and Kristen and a couple young guys. The guys had hiked over the High Peaks and done Old Original and then looped back around via Old Pinnacles. We swapped stories about OO and gave them kudos.
Noal - I heard some people blowing some kind of horns on my way out Wednesday and reminisced about our mystery drummer. Good times dude :biggrin:
I imagine you guys stayed until last light :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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You can see how cloudy it was yesterday in my pics. No blue skies. Total cloud cover. Fade to white.
I checked the park gauge and it only hit 57 yesterday with wind gusts up to 26 mph. The wind was more steady than gusty.
It would blow for several minutes, let up briefly (felt like half a minute) and then the next wave would come. It went on like that all day.
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we got back and it was dusk, so it was just in time to turn the headlights on for the drive out. Not quite a full day but close.
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Not quite a full day but close.
:madman:
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Brad, I think the 'loose' fear is all about that a hold that you are on could fail causing a fall, not so much that the same hold would wipe out the village below. In that regard, though, Pinnacles exceeds expectations. It's one of the few times I've fallen 'honestly' i.e. where I didn't know I was going to fall in advance of the hold breaking and sending me off. You belayed me on that trip up Adam's Apple as I recall.
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...you belayed me on that trip up Adam's Apple as I recall.
Maybe I belayed you up, down and up on that trip? ::)
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Go Kat! Congratulations!
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Noal - I heard some people blowing some kind of horns on my way out Wednesday and reminisced about our mystery drummer. Good times dude
You know, unfortunately I have heard the horn player. You are spot on with the drum connection the two know each other and some times "play music" together. No joking.
I think I experienced the horrible duet either when we working on Voyeur or summit experience. Did you tell them to STFU?
A few weekends ago saw some a-holes flying a big old drone in the high peaks in the afternoon when all the condors were out. We told them to knock it if off (and no it was not the mythical, highly anticipated, Starbucks drone delivering us lattes and paninis)
People these days......Sheesh.
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People these days......Sheesh.
I know, why can't they simply enjoy the natural sounds of Pinnacles, the wind rustling the chaparral, birds of prey screeching, frogs croaking, crickets chirping, snakes rattling, woodpeckers and climbers drilling.
I have almost gagged on perfume of late passing hikers on the trails. We observed waders and swimmers a couple weeks ago in the reservoir. Someone commented that the sign needs to be bigger and I suggested that a warning of "May contain the really bad strain of genital eating microbes", as a deterrent.
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I think I experienced the horrible duet
I have almost gagged on perfume of late passing hikers on the trails.
I feel your pain.
There were some maroons blasting bubble gum barf on their iphone when we were in Juniper Canyon.
It sounds like we all need to be deputized and given blank citation books.
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Drones are illegal without a permit, last news I saw from the NPS.
Brad, yep. :)
JC, calm yourself. It's going to be ok. ;) You just need to get further out, like in the mountains. ;)
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...JC, calm yourself. It's going to be ok. ;) You just need to get further out, like in the mountains. ;)
Munge, maybe consider teasing the next rattlesnake you see with a short stick.
That might be a little less likely to get a reaction than baiting the (as in "the," not "a") dyed-in-the-wool Pinnacles fanatic ;D :P
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It's subliminal. Pretty soon he'll be carpooling with me to the Valley.
We'll start with Sunnyside Bench and work our way up...
http://www.supertopo.com/routebeta/yosemite.html
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3304/3520017332_7fc4fb6f37_b.jpg)
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It's subliminal. Pretty soon he'll be carpooling with me to the Valley.
We'll start with Sunnyside Bench and work our way up...
http://www.supertopo.com/routebeta/yosemite.html
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3304/3520017332_7fc4fb6f37_b.jpg)
Not to speak for our favorite, wonderful, gregarious, fun-loving, adventurous, large-forheaded Pinnacles fanatic, but Fat Chance, Slim Chance and No Chance (the Chance brothers). Nice try though :P >:D ;D
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^^^^
BTW, that's a great photo of Snake Dike. What a route!
Too bad it DOESN'T BELONG on a Pinnacles climbing thread (just warming you up for the the lambasting you deserve and will get for posting that photo in this discussion).
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Hey, Munge
great pic, keep up the good work
; )
Mud
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I am determined to make it up some nonpinnacle classics with JC. Of course they will have the status of Pinnacles training exercises.
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I am determined to make it up some nonpinnacle classics with JC. Of course they will have the status of Pinnacles training exercises.
Maybe start by infusing his morning eggs with Valium? Then, as long as you're driving... (well you get the picture).
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Pinnacles Training!!!
Ya gotta have vision man!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2884/11924704463_2710f2b40b_c.jpg)
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A little more finger coordination and that pic would be Vulcan.
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Snake Dike is a fun one for sure.
Lot's of good and not so good memories with that route.
But that's another thread.
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(http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b571/nelkins182/IMG_1460-1_zpsfkj8cclh.jpg)
It's It.
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What's wrong with this picture?
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Absolutely nothing at all. I see that stuff on the way to and from the pinns all the time.
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Absolutely nothing at all. I see that stuff on the way to and from the pinns all the time.
Hardly likely. How can you see stuff like that when it's never light out as you travel (there or back) ;D :D
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One can see strange visions in the dark......
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Hijackistan :)
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One can see strange visions in the dark......
I suppose the Rasputin and Merlin team can do that in broad daylight.
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Neva again!
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The Quest for Mud season has unofficially begun. Bring your jacket.
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The Quest for Mud season has unofficially begun. Bring your jacket.
Only for the next few days.
No need after Wednesday.
Time for flies, ice water and shade :lol:
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Meanwhile I've got two fingers that are now missing big, painful flaps of skin and the back of an arm with a bunch of deep scrapes (even though I was wearing a rugby shirt).
Gosh, it must be granite cracks season ;)
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Gosh, it must be granite cracks season Wink
JC, we may need 2x3,4, 1x5,6, a selection of pins and the company of one Rasputin(Noal) to slay the non-European, New World Dragon.
Happy Mothers Day to all you mothering ladies!
mothering
noun
the process of caring for children as their mother or of caring for people in the way that a mother does:
He did not receive good mothering as a child.
a woman's mothering instinct
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^^^
Hey, I qualify as a Pinnacles fanatic. And I get to post occasionally about what's going on in the non-Pinnacles world. You should be supportive and happy for me. And worried about the amount of blood I've lost.
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One can see strange visions in the dark......
It needs to be dark?
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Hey, I qualify as a Pinnacles fanatic.
Brad, you are The Pinnacles fanatic. As far as blood lost on granite, I am only going to be concerned if your loss is measured in pints. If I lived where you do I probably wouldn't get to Pinns more than twice a year. As it is Pinnacles is constantly enticing me with it's mystery, which you have lost yourself in for much of your life, over the years.
I am looking forward to this summer's exploring with JC and KC. Still amazed at the quality of rock discoveries at the Old Man and Crud and Mud over the last 17 months.
:)
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JC, we may need 2x3,4, 1x5,6, a selection of pins and the company of one Rasputin(Noal) to slay the non-European, New World Dragon.
Happy Mothers Day to all you mothering ladies!
A few slings and arrows should be able to conquer The Monster.
Happy Mudders Day.
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A few slings and arrows should be able to conquer The Monster.
Happy Mudders Day.
Signed,
THE Other Fanatic
There I fixed it for you ;D
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No Merlin, for you it doesn't need to be dark.
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I'm suffering slings and arrows since we missed a perfect day but we did a good thing today with beano :lol: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Moving into the void on some thin slab yesterday
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/37022187896_13f4036f6a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YpwoCq)
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Orange you glad you can down climb?
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Orange you glad you can down climb?
Still wondering how the heck I did that :yesnod: :yikes: :biggrin:
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clink and KC share Tick Talk :lol: :yikes: :yesnod: :crazy: :eeeek:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/37212445455_ee8372e1ec_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkvza)
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The Quest continues...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4436/37022188516_fa86b811e5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YpwoP7)
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On the way out we saw a cool snake, it disappeared into a slot in the rocks before a pic could be taken.
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The lower you get, the bigger and better they look :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/37212444335_c88d047c17_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGkveR)
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Big butts
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Big butts
Baby's got BAC
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Big butts
Let's go git some clinker :thumbup: :biggrin:
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So what is BAC? Blood Alcohol Content is the search result. Big Ass Crud?
The pinnacle on the left has ED. That was the one you called interesting.
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So what is BAC? Blood Alcohol Content is the search result. Big Ass Crud?
The pinnacle on the left has ED. That was the one you called interesting.
Bay Area Climber :lol: :puke:
unlike BAP which goes back to Brad's roots :yesnod: :lol:
The pinnacle on the left has ED. That was the one you called interesting.
Flaccid Finger :lol:
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Flaccid Finger :lol:
Low T Pinnacle :lol:
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Top Knot Pinnacle
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4383/37212757125_8f93d76751_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGn7dM)
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Top Knot Pinnacle
I showed your post to Jim and Wendy. All three of us agree - you nailed it.
You shoulda' been around two thousand years ago when they were naming the constellations. You've got a real knack.
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You shoulda' been around two thousand years ago when they were naming the constellations.
How do you know I wasn't? Recycling makes sense :lol: :crazy:
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How do you know I wasn't? Recycling makes sense :lol: :crazy:
Let's see, 2,000 years ago, initials J.C., and recycling does make sense. Could have been you....
Well if it was you figuring out what patterns of stars looked like, you've carried your skills into the present age to be applied to rocks.
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Mike asked if I would mind if he sent a guy named Andrew, who was visiting the gym yesterday, over to climb with us. I mentioned something about being social to Geoff. He responded "I'm the socialest there is".
Andrew ended up climbing with others.
Josh was dropped off the gym by his Mom and Martha. He was very excited about climbing being in the Olympics, and SNL's impersonation of Spicer. Martha had no idea that I was at the gym. It was a (Brad)business meeting, since we talked for a couple minutes about work and exchanged a check for me and pay for one of Geoff's sons.
Who is going to be the Rock(Plastic) Climbing sports announcer at the Olympics? Geoff did an excellent play by play of Andrew climbing higher than we did on a well set route. Geoff was sure Andrew was going to fall off sooner than he did, pretty damn funny.
Seabright Brewery is hard to beat, for extending the business meeting. This is how we fill in some of the days between Mud research outings.
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...it was a (Brad) business meeting...
Well I'll be. Old dogs can learn new tricks.
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Seabright Brewery is hard to beat, for extending the business meeting.
I'm always good at extending business in this manner.
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Thick as a Tick
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/37212757035_43f426dde7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGn7ce)
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Thick as a Tick
All talk from that viewpoint.
Did you notice the grass was chest high in places.
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In the clear white circles of morning wonder,
I take my place with the lord of the hills...
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In the clear white circles of morning wonder,
I take my place with the lord of the hills...
So you do wax...
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The C's were top notch on Top Knot. Great lead KC.
We shelled out some egg hunting in the Monsters lair .
Nice to run into Gavin.
JC rocked out 2 serious stance placements while uncorking the bottle. The arraignment of the the previous 2 days is that he does most of the work(7 bolts to 1) and while I expound on the possibility of his future employment opportunity as becoming a gargoyle model. :)
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The C's were top notch on Top Knot. Great lead KC.
We shelled out some egg hunting in the Monsters lair .
Nice to run into Gavin.
JC rocked out 2 serious stance placements while uncorking the bottle.
Top Knot was cool dude and Uncorked ain't bad either.
Can't wait to get back to Monster and the Tick's Underbelly :thumbup: :yesnod: :lol:
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On the whole, gargoyles seem to have small foreheads bro. This statue has a larger one than most.
Le Stryge, Notre Dame, early 1900s
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Uncle Sam, Buddha, God, and Plato are more in the running. That Lawrence of McEnroe look you were sporting may be catchy.
8)
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Uncle Sam, Buddha, God, and Plato are more in the running. That Lawrence of McEnroe look you were sporting may be catchy.
8)
It's Lawrence of Wimbledon to you :lol:
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Top Knot
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/36375050744_3d17b07e1e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XqkDij)
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^^^
That is a very interesting photo and a cool formation. Looks like fun.
I have two groups of questions:
1. Is the LOLR up and right (below you), and then around to the summit? Is that how you climbed?
2. Am I seeing horizontal ropes across the gap between the summit and the rocks to the left? Did you guys set up a tyrollean traverse to get off??
And I'll take my answers offline if online would give away too many secrets for now ;D ;)
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^^^
That is a very interesting photo and a cool formation. Looks like fun.
I have two groups of questions:
1. Is the LOLR up and right (below you), and then around to the summit? Is that how you climbed?
2. Am I seeing horizontal ropes across the gap between the summit and the rocks to the left? Did you guys set up a tyrollean traverse to get off??
And I'll take my answers offline if online would give away too many secrets for now ;D ;)
Nope.
It is like a smaller version of Bicuspid without the unprotected rotten start.
A small crumbly pillar (to my right in the pic) which can't be seen in this picture allows you to gain the main pinnacle.
I placed a bolt on that middle summit for a directional while you climb down to the slot and gain the smaller crumbly pillar.
Pretty cool climb - a mini mountaineering adventure.
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JC spotted a line that worked out on a pinnacle we have dubbed the monster, not that it resembles him sporting a goatee in any way.
At one point JC was around a corner and as I continued to feed out rope I inquired "How are things going?". He yelled back "I'm committed" and probably should be for his mossy run-out to the top.
The climb surprisingly went at 5.7ish 2bolts 75 ft corkscrew. Cool summit! Dude, that was a great day and climb.
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JC spotted a line that worked out on a pinnacle we have dubbed the monster, not that it resembles him sporting a goatee in any way.
At one point JC was around a corner and as I continued to feed out rope I inquired "How are things going?". He yelled back "I'm committed" and probably should be for his mossy run-out to the top.
The climb went at 5.7ish 2bolts 75 ft corkscrew. Cool summit! Dude, that was a great day and climb.
That was an awesome day and I am going with Behemoth for a name.
I will include in the description for the upper slab - climb up to a perfect stance on a decent size lodestone and wonder why there is not a bolt. This one will be left for all the naysayers. :lol: :devildevil: :eeeek:
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Top Knot
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/36375050744_3d17b07e1e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XqkDij)
Here are some more pics of Top Knot - dueling JC's
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/36375049954_b1d1cb1c60_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XqkD4G)
and to solve the mystery that Brad inquired about...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4350/37069712571_9a292dd94e_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YtHY4n)
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Here's a couple shots of Uncorked.
Drilling on a tippy toe stance
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4363/36375050244_f5ab06769a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XqkD9G)
Working on the upper section.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4438/36375050464_7abcd34888_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XqkDdu)
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Thought I would let the suspense build.
Here are a few of clink's shots of me on Behemoth
In the Funky flare
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/36397087833_1506cd4393_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XshAa8)
After the Furry slab
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4395/36397087463_61bcfcd600_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XshA3K)
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4428/37021359586_7169df7dd2_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yps9pd)
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I like the wide shot.
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5.7
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5.7
Zactly :smilewinkgrin:
5.7R* (the Furry slab is 5.5R) :thumbup: :lol:
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Here is a zoom of the Furry slab. Look close and you can see the sling knob I used. The rope passes it on the right.
I could barely reach it on my tip toes. I thought that it might be a starting hand hold but I actually moved down and right to get started, making the sling knob waaaaay less meaningful. The best holds and LOLR were right up the furriest part along the right-hand side of the slab) I might have placed a bolt from that other noticeable knob (big but not slingable) but once I was standing on it the climbing was getting easier, it was really hot and I was smelling the summit.
clink took this after I had the first anchor bolt in.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4383/37021359696_7e2a9b0689_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yps9r7)
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Today was supposed to be a rest day for the forum.
Lurkers say hi :)
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Burp!
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Today was supposed to be a rest day for the forum.
Lurkers say hi :)
Who made that rule? :puke:
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Who made that rule? :puke:
And it was good.
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I thought there was a seasonal closure of the forum, much like the Passes in the Sierra. :)
posting by mud saying "DIE" in 3...2...1...
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Saw and talked to Belizzi in the parking lot today :biggrin:
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Went back out today with my buddy Dave from L.A. and Kat and we just did fun stuff.
Dave and I went out yesterday and had fun. It was only his second time climbing ever.
Kat chalked up another 8 today on Chockstone - nice :yesnod: :thumbup:
Explain this to me.
I hike over hell and half an acre every weekend with clink for the last few months - mostly off trail.
Today after sticking to trails and climbing relatively heavily trafficked stuff I find a tick embedded in my ankle, blood on my sock and a nice red circle where the little bastard was feeding - wtf?
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It was a Missionary gym tick, that hitched a ride to Pinns on a chalk bag, to spread the "good news" and the benefits of fasting, meditating, yoga, and communal urban living. Unfortunately, upon smelling the blood of a true adventurer it forsook it's vision to convert the masses, and chomped onto your ankle. Poor little heretic.
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My theory is the marauder crawled into my hiking boot while it was unattended (while I was climbing). When I put my boot back on, it latched on and engorged itself and one of two things happened. Either it felt poisoned and vomited the meal back into me or my leg moving around in the boot popped it while it was full.
I never felt a thing. All I saw when we got home was a crusted spot of blood on my skin with a surrounding circle of redness. It wasn't until I scraped off the blob of dried blood that we realized there was indeed a buggy vampire in the coagulated quagmire.
On a more positive note, Dave had a club membership that allowed us all to enjoy a complete tasting of the fare at Chalone Winery. We sat and enjoyed the vino and the view from their balcony and then bought a nice selection - and of course - Kat joined the Pinnacles Club. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
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I already thought she was a club member. :)
If you develop a rash or fever within several weeks of removing the tick, see your doctor. Be sure to tell the doctor about the bite, date occurred, and where.
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It wouldn't hurt to get a photo of the rash now to compare with later if needed
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Dave gettin' his high step on :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4415/36374660504_8a097457b0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XqiDi3)
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It was 76 when we hit the gate at 7:30 this morn and 107 when we drove away - Did Old Original with Kat and Julia today.
It was the last day Julia could climb before she moves to Australia for graduate work.
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It was 76 when we hit the gate at 7:30 this morn and 107 when we drove away - Did Old Original with Kat and Julia today.
It was the last day Julia could climb before she moves to Australia for graduate work.
It is that time of year :puke:
Tabular Listing: June 18, 2017 - 16:00 through June 19, 2017 - 16:00 PDT
Time(PDT) Temp Relative Wind Wind
Humidity Speed Gust
° F % mph mph
15:37 109.0 18 7 14
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It is that time of year :puke:
Tabular Listing: June 18, 2017 - 16:00 through June 19, 2017 - 16:00 PDT
Time(PDT) Temp Relative Wind Wind
Humidity Speed Gust
° F % mph mph
15:37 109.0 18 7 14 W
Dude, let's skip the gobbledygook. Here's the takeaway:
IT'S 109 DEGREES AT PINNACLES RIGHT NOW! ONLY NUTS WOULD GO THERE!
There, that was easy ;)
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Dude, let's skip the gobbledygook. Here's the takeaway:
IT'S 109 DEGREES AT PINNACLES RIGHT NOW! ONLY NUTS WOULD GO THERE!
Sometimes you feel like a nut.
Sometimes you don't.
After we establish Pass the Doobie Scoobie we'll have to do Almond Joy and Mounds
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Always surprises me that they don't shut the gate to Death Valley with these types of temps.
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Hi
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Hi
clink - I am keeping track of your keystrokes and I have a pull up bar in the garage. :lol:
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O
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I quip.
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My theory is the marauder crawled into my hiking boot while it was unattended (while I was climbing). When I put my boot back on, it latched on and engorged itself and one of two things happened. Either it felt poisoned and vomited the meal back into me or my leg moving around in the boot popped it while it was full.
I never felt a thing. All I saw when we got home was a crusted spot of blood on my skin with a surrounding circle of redness. It wasn't until I scraped off the blob of dried blood that we realized there was indeed a buggy vampire in the coagulated quagmire.
On a more positive note, Dave had a club membership that allowed us all to enjoy a complete tasting of the fare at Chalone Winery. We sat and enjoyed the vino and the view from their balcony and then bought a nice selection - and of course - Kat joined the Pinnacles Club. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
How is the bite?
https://www.hopkinsrheumatology.org/specialty-clinics/lyme-disease-clinical-research-center/what-to-do-after-a-tick-bite/
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I quip.
quipping or kipping?
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How is the bite?
https://www.hopkinsrheumatology.org/specialty-clinics/lyme-disease-clinical-research-center/what-to-do-after-a-tick-bite/
Seems to be fine. Thanks for asking.
Still just looks like a mosquito bite. There has been no itch, no soreness, no increase in redness or enlargement of the small, slightly red spot (half an inch in diameter). No unusual physical symptoms.
It got a bit redder Sunday but that was likely a result of being out in the intense heat.
Probably lucky I didn't spontaneously combust :lol:
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quipping or kipping?
I don't think there is much chance of him doing a kip-up.
His failed landing might register on local seismographs :lol:
Tricia might be able to teach us something about doing crazy, bendy launches :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Probably lucky I didn't spontaneously combust :lol:
You joke, but I just bought a fire extinguisher for the next time I climb with you at Pinns.
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You joke, but I just bought a fire extinguisher for the next time I climb with you at Pinns.
It's nice and cool here - 73 in the house with the windows open - benefits of coastal living :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :smilewinkgrin:
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You joke, but I just bought a fire extinguisher for the next time I climb with you at Pinns.
So hot.
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http://news.nationalgeographic.com/2017/06/tick-bite-meat-allergy-spreading-spd/?utm_source=Facebook&utm_medium=Social&utm_content=link_fb20170621news-tickmeat&utm_campaign=Content
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Yup, it's warm, thank god for AC.
Pinns in the evening would be quite nice.
Mungie??
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A/C is having a tough time keeping up.
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Yup, it's warm, thank god for AC.
Pinns in the evening would be quite nice.
Mungie??
How many people on here have lived back east (besides Noal) where it doesn't cool down at night?
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http://news.nationalgeographic.com/2017/06/tick-bite-meat-allergy-spreading-spd/?utm_source=Facebook&utm_medium=Social&utm_content=link_fb20170621news-tickmeat&utm_campaign=Content
I had a double double on the way home before I knew about the blood feast.
Had another one this past weekend :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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and avoid high grass
So stay away from the bong. Bad medicine.
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So stay away from the bong. Bad medicine.
Bongloadash
Murky Bongwater
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Tripdig
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Tripdig
Crash Buds
Contraband Crack
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Kat and I were on the west side yesterday after a 2 month hiatus from climbing and Pinnacles.
Did some exploring and found one interesting face but I wasn't in the mood to drill in the sun.
We looked at several other possibilities and climbed a little just to get some movement.
Saw a rattler on the trail between the bridge at Destiny cutoff and Bouldering Rock after talking to a variety of folks and Dan Gearhardt (sp?). It was stretched out and lazing apparently after a meal. There was a decent bulge about half way down its' length. Temp was only 93 back at the lot. Looking forward to rejoining clink next weekend.
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There was a decent bulge about half way down its' length
Same here.
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Kat and I were on the west side yesterday after a 2 month hiatus from climbing and Pinnacles.
Did some exploring and found one interesting face but I wasn't in the mood to drill in the sun.
We looked at several other possibilities and climbed a little just to get some movement.
Saw a rattler on the trail between the bridge at Destiny cutoff and Bouldering Rock after talking to a variety of folks and Dan Gearhardt (sp?). It was stretched out and lazing apparently after a meal. There was a decent bulge about half way down its' length. Temp was only 93 back at the lot. Looking forward to rejoining clink next weekend.
Really glad you got back out. It's seems like about the right time.
Oh, and "exploring" is overrated and not necessary at Pinnacles. No need to bother (although that might change come November).
BTW, I got the PCAD email and thought it was very well done (tried to reply on that thread, but it's a "no reply" thread). Thanks to all of you for putting in the hard work (again).
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BTW, I got the PCAD email and thought it was very well done (tried to reply on that thread, but it's a "no reply" thread). Thanks to all of you for putting in the hard work (again).
Sorry - the thread is locked because I don't want to answer questions on there - I added a couple pics and my email address if anyone has any questions. Last year I unlocked the thread AFTER the event. I'll do the same this year.
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JC got high on 420 today.
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JC got high on 420 today.
Thank God.
Now I can quit climbing.
Pass the doobie Scoobie :lol: :out: :prrr: :crazy: :arf:
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KC and I had a fun day with clink yesterday.
The park's temp gauge said it was a high of 88 but it felt very pleasant all day.
There were nice breezes and a few gusts that just about blew clink and me off our respective stances.
It was good to drill bolts again.
KC is still claiming she doesn't have her Pinns head back yet.
Weather looks good for next weekend but we will not be able to get out for the next couple weekends.
We'll have to get back out and finalize a couple things on the routes we did yesterday before the big event weekend.
We still need to put in an anchor, add some chains to both anchors and torque all the bolts.
clink tuffs out a difficult stance to set me up. He seems to enjoy setting these traps :yesnod: :devildevil:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4415/37096635116_208ed14f41_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yw6Xcb)
Agent Orange stopping to get in another bolt on the lip. It took some concentrated effort to resist just running it out. :crazy:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4401/36449928294_cb56e3c024_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwXpMy)
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I was just about to send you a note enquiring whether or not you folks would be out and about! I have a free Saturday for a change.
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I was just about to send you a note enquiring whether or not you folks would be out and about! I have a free Saturday for a change.
Right on brother - we'll get back on the crud soon - thanks for breaking the stalemate :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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We'll have to get back out and finalize a couple things on the routes we did yesterday before the big event weekend.
We still need to put in an anchor, add some chains to both anchors and torque all the bolts.
Got it all done today including drilling a fatty for one of the anchor bolts on It's 4:20 Dude
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Got it all done today including drilling a fatty for one of the anchor bolts on It's 4:20 Dude
Got this classic shot of Birdbrain Pinnacle on the way out. I almost started a new thread :lol: :yesnod: :rolleyes:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4486/23746920928_34e666aa7c_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Cbrbgb)
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Clink and I finished See Ya Crater Alligator yesterday on a perfect Pinnacles day. The high was only 76 and there was a nice breeze. The route turned out to be more challenging than we anticipated. It is a mini adventure with some tricky moves and fairly intricate route finding.
Starting up last Sunday with some cool shadowing. I am standing on the first big, perched lodestone (see route description).
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4509/37676863131_cd27fc3702_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZpnLLt)
Now the question becomes why would I not drill from that huge stance and instead move up to this calf pumper with a lean in on the elbow? I guess because I had a good knob slung out left and just felt like getting the bolt higher.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4508/37676862911_191aa8e547_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZpnLGF)
This shot gives a better perspective and the staggered stance I shifted to
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4443/37005666783_dc47b59ef1_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yo4HtD)
Here is the stance for bolt 2
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4497/37676861891_3cbaedd60c_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZpnLp6)
And the same stance from a different perspective
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4481/37676862421_9d4e7a63d5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZpnLye)
Clink went up next and continued the shenanigans by climbing way past a perfectly good stance up the headwall and onto the big slanting ledge above. He claims he did it to keep the flavor of the route :yesnod: :thumbup: :smilewinkgrin: :devildevil:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/37676861501_6cba66c7ce_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZpnLhn)
After placing the 3rd bolt, clink committed to the bulge and got another bolt in from a tough stance in the heat. That would be it for the day since we had to leave a bit early for a PCAD meeting.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/37005665553_e5ea6f4ab0_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yo4H7r)
Clink was kind enough to let me top out the route yesterday. My feet were probably 10 or 12 feet above his last bolt when it felt like the climb was over and I started looking for a good place to drill an anchor. Here is one last shot looking down from the anchor as clink followed. The sling knob is only for show. A few feet of scrambling leads up to a nice ledge where the walkoff starts.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4459/37005666213_7d4a0b909f_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yo4HiP)
Here is a preliminary description. Posted here mainly because this is such a popular crag. People climbing Passion Play probably will not notice the first bolt unless they are looking very closely and the second bolt cannot be seen from below.
See Ya Crater Alligator 5.6R
Note: This climb traverses/wraps around the right side of Passion Play Wall and wanders
a bit to take advantage of the natural lines and the good holds. It is not for novices.
Start at the base of Passion Play but move immediately up and right toward a basketball-
sized, perched lodestone. The perched lodestone and/or another good knob slightly left
can be slung to protect the moves to the first bolt if desired. From the first bolt, continue
traversing diagonally up and right and then along the base of an alcove underneath a
beach ball sized, hanging, fractured lodestone (the time bomb). The “time bomb” was not
utilized in any way to climb this route. Past the “time bomb” a step up at the far right side
of the alcove reveals the 2nd bolt. Move around a blunt arete to the right and up into an
obvious scoop. From the scoop, move right and up into another smaller scoop. From that
scoop, make committing moves up a short headwall to an upwardly slanting ledge/ramp
(slants up and left) - at the base of an undercut bulge. One bolt allows moves onto the
bulge but will not keep you off the ledge (do not fall). A fourth bolt protects the final
section of the climb to a two bolt anchor - 101 feet from the start. Walk off left (3rd class).
FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Kathy Cook FA Date: 10-12-17
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looks covered in questionable moss and time bombs! whew
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looks covered in questionable moss and time bombs! whew
I think you would like it mungie. It actually has some decent rock and some fun puzzle-solving. It may clean up some if people climb it or it may never clean up and just stay an adventure. The time bomb was just too big to mess with and is easy enough to avoid. :ihih: :out: :crazy: :yikes:
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Munge and Mud would solo it if the route gets a bit cleaner.
Thanks for posting the info JC. Fun route and beauty day for climbing!
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It'll clean up.
I suspect it'll make a nice addition to the two routes already there.
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It'll clean up.
I suspect it'll make a nice addition to the two routes already there.
It's fun but not for everyone. I think you will appreciate it and thanks for the atta boy :lol: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
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It's fun but not for everyone....
Kinda describes Pinnacles as a whole now doesn't it? ;)
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Kinda describes Pinnacles as a whole now doesn't it? ;)
touché
Here is one more of clink committed to the headwall. Look carefully and you can see the last bolt way down and left.
He still has several thoughtful moves to gain the next stance up on that slanting ledge. More flavor to savor. :ihih: :yesnod: :yikes:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4468/37694494341_56dc860420_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZqW8UR)
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We already talked about this last year but that is a long time - especially for those of us a bit long in the tooth.
It's the weekend of 4-20 Dude :lol: :yesnod: :thumbup: :ihih: :crazy:
Pretty much. The question is who of the posters here, will be there?
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It rained a bit.
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It rained a bit.
You okay buddy? Getting enough sleep? :frown2: :frown: :frown: :nonod: :yawn:
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Yep. Crud this coming weekend.
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The Walking Mud became a reality this weekend. It is a totally separate climb from Mud Diamond and allows you to access the highest point on Crud and Mud. Too bad the terrain isn't steeper because the rock is nice.
The Walking Mud - 4th Class
For experienced Mudders, this climb will probably feel like a walk in the park. For the inexperienced, it may be a horror show. The route follows an obvious line left of a rounded arête. From the Mud Diamond anchor, climb up and veer left into the mossy water chute. There is one bolt about 15 feet out from the anchor that cannot be seen. From the bolt, a series of small scoops leads straight up and over a lip (25 feet). Large knobs can be slung if desired. Once above the lip, the angle eases considerably. Continue another 75 feet up a very low angle slab to the true summit of Crud and Mud (115 feet from the start). There is no summit anchor for this route but there is excellent body position. To descend, make a short downclimb off the summit block to the East Side 5.2 R anchor. FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook. FA Date: October 22, 2017
Of course you can also Fear the Walking Mud and rappel from the Mud Diamond anchor :lol:
P.S. Remember - zombies can't climb :nono: :out: :prrr:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/26156417059_2dbb61f49a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FRmtvV)
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I think that has been solo'd a few times already.
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I think that has been solo'd a few times already.
Yer so funny :lol: - not unless they soloed Mud Diamond :ihih: :arf:
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Kermit Kersplat
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Crust Station
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Crust Station
Human Ashtray :lol:
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Cannibal Lipstick
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:)
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:)
It appears we were both working around peckers yesterday. Mine was significantly larger :lol:
Things that make you go hmmmm... :crazy:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/38048404621_f177945808_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZYd27e)
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Great pic.
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Finding a few good holds on a FA at Pinns is like Christmas!
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This one is for you clinker.
Thanks for another great day of adventure on the mud.
It pays to play hooky with the Cookie
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4551/38222546756_a8a9bd4029_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21eAxuQ)
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Thanks
Yes
Let's do that again
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Here is the companion shot.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4549/38296414461_2c5b2158bd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21m88MX)
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Had fun yesterday finishing a route with Brad that he started on Sunday with Jennifer Wang.
While drilling what would be the last lead bolt, Brad realized the top was close but also realized he had not redpointed the route. I told him to come down and I would be happy to redpoint and drill the first anchor bolt. For some strange reason he declined.
The route will not be called Kind Offering or Charitable Monday :lol:
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These things happen. Hang in there JC, one day you'll be able to do an FA too! ;) :)
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While drilling what would be the last lead bolt, Brad realized the top was close but also realized he had not redpointed the route. I told him to come down and I would be happy to redpoint and drill the first anchor bolt. For some strange reason he declined.
The route will not be called Kind Offering or Charitable Monday :lol:
Chance brothers....
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Jump
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Where the Wild Things are...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4574/26653862159_f4846b7e4c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GBj1Bz)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4551/38430242791_5e5592d612_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21xX3hX)
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Nice!
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Where the Wild Things are...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4534/26671039539_393b3a0600_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GCQ3Ri)
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I bailed on meeting up with the Cooks. What you do?
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Kat and I climbed with Gavin on Saturday and reached the Throne of Pinnacles after some hair-raising activity yesterday. :yikes: :thumbup:
Climbing Camouflage Corner with Gavin
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4561/37829441774_5ab5a4c282_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZCRM5J)
BAP Trap
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4536/37829442244_0a13e39c62_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZCRMdQ)
Gavin leading Pickpocket
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4567/38545389601_0a13e39c62_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21J8cqM)
The Long and the Short of It – a cool climb with lots of interesting moves. When it gets as clean as the rest of the routes at Tourist Trap it will be a two-star climb – hopefully it will clean up quickly :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4532/37829441934_bab85f5949_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZCRM8u)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4558/38545389131_40bb06bb01_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21J8chF)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4585/38545388771_70744fa009_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21J8cbt)
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I'm not sure what it is but I love this picture.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4526/38545804601_032e12783c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21JajMX)
Taking a break on The Throne :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
The more I look at it maybe The Recliner is more appropriate :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4524/26770041049_c2a8452647_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GMzsxT)
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I climbed "See Ya Crater Alligator" (5.6 R) today. It was a nice climb. I agree that it is not for novices.
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Glad you got on it. Not as scary as some of the FAs you put up earlier this year. :)
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I climbed "See Ya Crater Alligator" (5.6 R) today. It was a nice climb. I agree that it is not for novices.
Glad you liked it. We had a lot of fun putting it up.
Just curious - Did you lead it with a belayer, rope solo or free solo?
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I did it rope solo. The route seemed very logical to use many different features. I also did all of the routes on The Invisible Cliff on Sunday. I particularly liked the center one that goes over the bulge.
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Nice. That is what I figured.
I got to do a coveted 2nd ascent elsewhere on Sunday - :thumbup: :biggrin:
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I got to do a coveted 2nd ascent elsewhere on Sunday - Thumb Up Dude Big Grin
Thread desecration. :nono:
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Thread desecration. :nono:
Notice I didn't say where or on what and where everyone else climbed on solid stuff, I checked out the chossy path less taken :eek: :rolleyes: :biggrin:
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The "chossy path less taken" sounds like a lot of territory in the Pinnacles!
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highly coveted 2nd ascent
there ya go, fixed it for ya. ;)
It's like they're giving away 2nd ascents for free out there in the wild west! ;)
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Munge, you mean the wild east.
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Mini adventure yesterday.
Started with me dislodging this rock on the approach and narrowly missing Jason - I barely touched it - shades of Tabooboo?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4682/39052756201_02835baee8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22uXzQM)
The destination climb - Dwarf Pinnacle
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4567/27275422169_28273e95dc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HyeEKt)
View from above the route - the sling knobs were a joke and the overall rock quality was not good - it is however exposed, historic (am I on the wrong thread?) and a cool summit
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4548/27275422319_d97e64416d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HyeEN4)
The replacement anchor chains, smash links and bolts all look brand new even though they are 14 years old.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4525/38171474965_213fd6bb15_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21a5MCH)
Jason raps
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4686/39052756431_4b8c45f7cb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22uXzUK)
We climbed Possibility Pinnacle on the way back. I took Jason to Photographer's Delight next so he could get a classic lead in. We saw two condors on the rocks below Long's Folly. While we were watching a third one flew right overhead and landed next to the other two. Jason led the Cone on the way down.
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^^^
Well, well, well. Nice that you finally get to tick that one off your list.
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I evidamndently drew the short straw for both my stances yesterday.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4646/27367587379_2e3789f2a9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HGo3fP)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4587/39145888741_bd4a533384_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22DbUUe)
One should not be able to rest this easily - much less smile on stance!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4640/39115278462_1166c12a4f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22Au2wN)
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lol, nice pics!
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The slacker in the yellow puffy answered his phone on stance while halfway through with the drilling. He also bled like a stuck pig from a short brush encounter. Brad did talk him into drilling into a big loadstone. :)
JC, you are doing such a fine job that I have decided to let you drill bolt #4. >:D
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The slacker in the yellow puffy answered his phone on stance while halfway through with the drilling.
Seemingly unbelievable, but true!
Brad did talk him into drilling into a big loadstone. :)
After two holes I started nearby in seemingly good rock both failed.
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JC, you are doing such a fine job that I have decided to let you drill bolt #4. >:D
Since I have already done two-thirds of the work I will just go ahead and finish it. :yesnod: :thumbup: :prrr:
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We hit a new low.
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We hit a new low.
And also hit a new high :lol:
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Awful, ugly, and gross rock. The worst route yet for me. The consistency of dried diarrhea. When you hit rock bottom, chug a quart of prune juice and start digging. a parade of shitfuckery.
The two square feet of drillable rock eight feet below the summit and the rappel were very good.
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Awful, ugly, and gross rock. The worst route yet for me. The consistency of dried diarrhea. When you hit rock bottom, chug a quart of prune juice and start digging. a parade of shitfuckery.
The two square feet of drillable rock eight feet below the summit and the rappel were very good.
The first bolt is also belay quality - well...what was the first bolt until you started cringing at that rotten traverse and drilled that bolt for a self back-belay. Kat and I went and ran up it again today and I surfaced your bolt and fixed (actually replaced) that bad directional/lead bolt I placed toward the top with a bomber 12mm long triplex. It is actually belay quality now too - although not in the best rock. Kat didn't think the climb was that bad and said she would rather lead it than Rock Bottom :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
We scrambled over toward Brittle Palace on the way down but ran short of time to climb it. I know prezactly where it is now and how to get there :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Easy and yuck. It was funny hearing your dissertation of the rock quality when you disappeared around the corner yesterday. The corridor was cool. Did you get a look beyond it?
Glad you had fun Go Kat :)
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Easy and yuck. It was funny hearing your dissertation of the rock quality when you disappeared around the corner yesterday.
Glad you had fun Go Kat :)
Just a reminder for you clink - the loose stool traverse? :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4633/38579363805_5f1fd4894e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21M8jLV)
We don't have to climb this do we?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4595/38579364145_8829f2f715_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21M8jSM)
This looks like the logical way up - drill baby drill - hmmm...is there anything here that isn't styrofoam? Like a needle in a haystack... :out:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4684/27680790619_047019fc62_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Jb4hEF)
Summit of Prune Pinnacle - The Regular Route :crazy: :yesnod: :ciappa: :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4645/27680790979_3c38f96f87_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Jb4hLT)
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Prooopy quality. Whew!
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Kat and I had an absolute blast on Saturday at Condor Crags.
I got us up the first pitch as an aid pitch on gear - my first time aiding on gear - super cool.
I led it as a free climb years ago when Kat and I did St. Valentines Day Massacre.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4647/38752138504_514707e4b8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/223oQF3)
Belaying Kat up the final 4th class section of the oldest roped climb in Pinns - that's a fairly long and hairy pitch of class four - it was a real treat to finally do it.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4729/39460687961_09434c5b1b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2381kJZ)
Standing on the highest of the South Summits
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Climbing to the North Summit (taken from the South Summit).
After I got down there and got past the start, I realized I had climbed the upper section once before when I did Condor Condiment with the McConachie brothers
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4640/27683106019_5b08964348_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Jbg9Xn)
Looking back over to Kat on the South Summit from North Summit
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4725/38752138814_db8293c923_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/223oQLo)
It was super cool to finally do the old routes but I think the highlight of my day was leading the South Summit Traverse - here is Kat following
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4731/27683106539_4c4fd19ff1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Jbga7k)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4633/38752138194_14795893b7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/223oQzG)
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Sendy!
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Summit of Prune Pinnacle - The Regular Route :crazy: :yesnod: :ciappa: :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4645/27680790979_3c38f96f87_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Jb4hLT)
That one actually looks like a prune (squished onto its end).
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That one actually looks like a prune (squished onto its end).
Keeping it regular my friend.
My mom would have especially liked this one :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup: :lol:
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Someone can do the Prune Direct or shall we call it The Derrierettissima.
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That one actually looks like a prune (squished onto its end).
And it's pitted :yesnod: :biggrin: :rolleyes:
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Someone can do the Prune Direct or shall we call it The Derrierettissima.
You should TR the rappel line and claim the FA :madman: :madmax: :incazzato: :devildevil:
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And it's pitted :yesnod: :biggrin: :rolleyes:
It also encourages the use of and epitomizes the term PILE :yesnod:
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It also encourages the use of and epitomizes the term PILE Yes Nod
Are you suppository about that?
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I moved this post to discourage any thread jacking on the Closures thread.
Well...I thought I moved it. Oops. So much for cut and paste.
Anyways...Kat and I had an interesting weekend starting with the outrageously heavy fog on Saturday.
When we got to the west side you could hardly see anything. On the trail we could barely see from one pinnacle to the next. One really cool benefit was how the fog provided a background for some of the hard to see formations that are normally superimposed on everything behind them. A fine example is almost centered. :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4619/38687235255_f75a0624ff_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21WEccv)
We hiked and inspected but were displeased by the moisture content of moss and lichen on our objectives, so we strayed from climbing and had a nice hike (we're soft). We saw little and hiked a lot. We stopped and chatted with Savannah at Condor Crags while she monitored for condors with no visual confirmation. What a strange day. We felt sorry for those visiting Pinns for the first time.
Yesterday we arrived to almost the same conditions. Driving through the Salad Bowl had been sunny but as soon as we hit Soledad - boom! No sun for you!!
We decided to hike the new Jawbone Canyon trail while we waited to see if things would clear. The trail is a nice addition with some beautiful sweeping views. It does have an eerie feel in the lower reaches where the moss covered trees close in for a stretch. Someone or something had been snacking on the trail.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4719/39554084482_6b554b80d3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23gg2gQ)
We had a nice hike up to the visitor center and then back down. The sky had cleared in the interim, so we decided to hustle up to the High Peaks and get some work done. While working, we were treated to condors, buzzards, ravens and falcons. I got buzzed repeatedly by falcons while working on the route. They didn't dive bomb me but they definitely let me know they were there. We had the added pleasure of seeing one of the west side roadrunners on the Jawbone Trail and a big coyote crossed the road by the automatic gate on the way out.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4717/38687493825_00ffd7893c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21WFw4B)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4618/38874861704_0f7fa39e69_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22eeQ1h)
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Who did that stacked stone work, is it quarried locally? Looks like a lot of work went into this trail.
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Who did that stacked stone work, is it quarried locally? Looks like a lot of work went into this trail.
The rock in that wall did not look local to me. From what I have seen, the sedimentary rocks underlying parts of the vineyards are not well lithified - wouldn't make good building stone.
A lot of it appears to be limestone or marble but I did not do a scratch test for hardness or ultimately an acid test for carbonates.
Kat mentioned Don Chapin being involved in the trail surface but not sure about the wall - tons of work put into the trail - get out there and pound some ground :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
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what the heck happened to that trail, holy sheep dip
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what the heck happened to that trail, holy sheep dip
Pretty sure that is tax dollars at work to bring more traffic so they can widen the West Side roads.
Today is 1/11/2018. ETA 5 years start seeing talk of it.
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Pretty sure that is tax dollars at work to bring more traffic so they can widen the West Side roads.
Today is 1/11/2018. ETA 5 years start seeing talk of it.
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=349.0
http://parkplanning.nps.gov/projectHome.cfm?projectId=12617
This link should take you to the pdf file where you can see the map of the proposed trails.
http://parkplanning.nps.gov/showFile.cfm?projectID=12617&MIMEType=application%252Fpdf&filename=PINN%20159539%20Public%20Scoping%20Newsletter1%2Epdf&sfid=215854
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What a great summit and Kat's first aid climb. We both thought this route was/is star worthy.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4740/25838038758_fa0513a597_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FndGJS)
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Took Emily and Kristen out yesterday to Crud and Mud.
Wanted to warm up on Squeaky but there was water dripping off the bolts.
I also wanted to lead Hollywood Stars but it was totally soaked.
Took a run up Pay Dirt - forgot how much fun that climb is.
Ended the day on Ashes and the highest summit. I swear I could smell smoke in the air and it was completely overcast.
We still had fun.
Emily had only been climbing twice before.
We met at the PCAD and she is leaving Pinnacles soon for another assignment.
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We decided to hike the new Jawbone Canyon trail while we waited to see if things would clear. The trail is a nice addition with some beautiful sweeping views. It does have an eerie feel in the lower reaches where the moss covered trees close in for a stretch. Someone or something had been snacking on the trail.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4719/39554084482_6b554b80d3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23gg2gQ)
Kristen told me yesterday that this is a deer carcass from a mountain lion feeding. She said the lion hangs out in the area. I told her I swore I heard a murmur/growl up on the hillside in the brush when we went through there. Kat also said she saw a big cat the weekend we stayed at the Inn (I didn't believe her).
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Dear deer.
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Beano came out with her dad and baby girl (Kimberly) yesterday for the first time since Kim-bear was born.
It was great to have her out and see her back on the mud.
waldo joined us for some fun romps.
Beano follows Kat on Big Bad West
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4702/39939859342_bfe7a9c6eb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23RmdGw)
waldo following Kat in the last section of See Ya Crater Alligator - Kat stepped up and led it yesterday
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4696/39939859032_dfa6400e1b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23RmdBb)
Atomizer engaging in some Tomfoolery high above on the far north end of the Machete
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4604/39939858712_74f47fc457_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23RmdvE)
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Hahahahahah. You caught us molesting the condor we captured on Machete Ridge. We arrived just in time to witness JC’s citizens arrest of the party climbing on Shake and Bake. I’ve got a video of this... loved the line “you could get climbing banned at Pinnacles by doing what you’re doing ... please come down” so funny. I wanted to harrass them to but you arrived just in time.
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The closure notices need pictures for the illiterate.
Condors Too?
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Hahahahahah. You caught us molesting the condor we captured on Machete Ridge. We arrived just in time to witness JC’s citizens arrest of the party climbing on Shake and Bake. I’ve got a video of this... loved the line “you could get climbing banned at Pinnacles by doing what you’re doing ... please come down” so funny. I wanted to harrass them to but you arrived just in time.
This is what Atomizer's condor looks like up close.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4673/28195892539_5a47e6f3c1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JXzjwg)
Multiple witnesses AND a video - damn!
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I’d like to mention the condor is for my one year old nephew Frederick. His name is Condor West.
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Sorry, Kimberly tried to eat that condor's face. Is that against the rules too?
What happened on shake and bake? Do I need to bring a slingshot to keep the order? Maybe i'll bring one anyway ...
Good to be back out on the crud with y'all!
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aaand.. slingshot is on its way. damn u amazon prime
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Kat leads See Ya Crater Alligator
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4631/28209668349_54d6b095a0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JYMVAe)
at the anchor - the smile says it all
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4603/28209668239_259144b9a9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JYMVyk)
and a cute, cuddly shot
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/28209668149_626e28055c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JYMVwM)
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I’d like to mention the condor is for my one year old nephew Frederick. His name is Condor West.
I'm sure you'll be a fun uncle :thumbup: :biggrin:
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baby mudder
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Got a good laugh from this two days ago.
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114014683/rock-bottom
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wow, that looks heinous in that pic! lol
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We went looking for shade in February. Quite a bird show in the distance, over Piedras Bonitas Cliffs.
A couple of shared jokes from the ST;
A man walks into a zoo. The only animal in the entire zoo is a dog. It's a Shih Tzu.
There are blind skydivers. They can tell when they're near the ground 'cos the dog's lead goes slack......
PCPS: I have nothing against dogs.
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We went looking for shade in February. Quite a bird show in the distance, over Piedras Bonitas Cliffs.
VERY FAR off in the distance.
I saw at least 6 condors being followed and harassed by other smaller birds (not sure what type), a murder of crows (I counted 11 dog-fighting and dive bombing) and I kept hearing screams echoing way across the valley (a falcon?). The condors were also swooping and potentially dog-fighting and dive bombing - or perhaps performing some type of mid-air courtship?
clink was on stance, so he couldn't enjoy the sights. He was getting plenty of commentary from me.
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clink found this amazing formation on Friday.
It is truly the $hit!
Poo Poo Pinnacle - poo poo Ka choo - Paul was the Walrus :nonod: :yesnod: :rolleyes: :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/40100304821_8a1222b8bc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/246wxxT)
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In a world where shit happens, things were looking up. :D
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My dog likes your jokes.
We went looking for shade in February. Quite a bird show in the distance, over Piedras Bonitas Cliffs.
A couple of shared jokes from the ST;
A man walks into a zoo. The only animal in the entire zoo is a dog. It's a Shih Tzu.
There are blind skydivers. They can tell when they're near the ground 'cos the dog's lead goes slack......
PCPS: I have nothing against dogs.
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Time to post some routes.
clink and I ended the year with this one.
I was hesitating on this one since it is so close to the Teapots - they are under the raptor closures.
I'm still not sure if it is okay to get on - Gavin said he'd have to check it out.
Prune Pinnacle – The Regular Route 5.2
Approach Prune Pinnacle from the Juniper Canyon Trail. Hike up the Juniper Canyon Trail to the 6th switchback above Palisade Pinnacle or down to the 4th switchback below the Tunnel Trail Junction. Go off the trail to the west (downhill) and skirt north across the hillside for 100 feet through a little brush and then a few small trees until you reach an obvious deep corridor of rock between Prune Pinnacle and the next formation uphill (no name) from it. Start climbing up the southeast toe of the formation for about 15 feet - up and onto a broad shoulder of rock. Walk along the shoulder toward an obvious notch between a small sub pinnacle and the main formation. A 3-inch cam can be placed in a pocket to protect the easy but exposed traverse to the base of the notch. A small cam in a crack on the right can be used to protect moves up and over the notch. There is a bolt with a screwlink on the other side of the notch that can be used by the follower to back belay across the next section (a loose traverse). From the top of the notch, scramble down along an awkward, exposed, somewhat stepped ledge. There are virtually no hand holds for this traverse since none of the rock on the right wall is reliable (very loose). Continue across the traverse and into a steep gully/corner. Step up to a second bolt and then climb past a small tree (scrub oak) and up to a cluster of small scrub oaks. Move through the cluster of small scrub oaks into a comfortable notch and another bolt. A belay is recommended here to avoid rope drag. Climb a short face to the sub summit and scramble across a narrow ridge to the true summit (120 feet from the start). The upper belay/rappel anchor is 10 feet below the true summit on the west side. Rappel 80 feet back to a point near the start of the climb. The rappel is a little tricky – move left along the face a little less than halfway down – then continue - to avoid a large loose flake on the face to the right – which can also hang up the ends of your rope.
FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran FA Date: 12-31-17
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4758/39412972654_0f5a9fcd76_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/233MMDh)
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clink and I finished this route on the back side of Knuckle Ridge last Friday. It turned out to be more fun than expected. The rock quality kept getting better as we got higher and there is some interesting movement - step-throughs, slab moves, hidden sidepulls...
Stays in shade for most of the day.
We found an old hex head bolt (probably a drop-in anchor) with a Leeper up top - oriented along the ridge as if someone had used it for pro or used it to get down in the vicinity of the chimney (which is part of the Knuckle Ridge menagerie - see route correction number 28). Can't imagine how we missed it the day Noal, Brad, Kat and I investigated the Traverse.
O Brother Where Art Thou? 5.6* - climbs the west side of the 4th Knuckle along the far left-hand edge. 5 bolts lead to a two-bolt anchor with chains, 60 feet from the start. FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Caleb Rightmyer, Kathy Cook, Brad Young. FA Date: 2-2-18
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4626/40092086602_68ebf6c863_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/245Nqys)
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Saving the best for last but no pictures yet (I'll try to post some later).
clink, Kat and I have been working on some new stuff at Rubble Wall. I was trying to wait a bit until we had enough to make it worth the trip up there and also because the weather has not been warm enough until recently to want to go back. I have aspirations for a few more routes and some eventual rebolting.
Here is what we have done so far:
North side of Rubble Wall
– great on a hot day (stays shady). Approach time 1hour 45 minutes
Hammer in My Heart 5.2* - this unusual route is located on a unique ridge of
rock known as The Heart of Pinnacles. The ridge is situated on the hillside on the
northeastern side of Rubble Wall. The ridge is oriented NE-SW, roughly parallel to and
separated by a 50-foot gap from the ridge that comprises The Teeth. The ridge has a large,
slightly rotated, heart-shaped hole about midway down its length. To reach the ridge, go to the
uphill (eastern end) of Rubble Wall and follow along the base of the wall in a downhill fashion
(to the northwest). There is some 3rd class scrambling required.
It is possible to walk and scramble along the top of The Heart of Pinnacles from the
uphill side. The section directly above the heart-shaped hole is the narrowest and most
exposed.
There is a large boulder on the hillside just uphill from the start of the climb that makes a great
staging area (on its uphill side). Walk downhill and around the toe of the ridge to the side nearest
the Teeth (northwest side) to start the route. Scramble up a knobby face to two huge knobs
reminiscent of Photographer’s Delight, below an obvious overhanging notch. Step up to the base
of the notch and clip a bolt on the right side, inside the notch. The end of the large protruding
feature on the left (the Donger) should be avoided, as should the bread-loaf sized knob
directly below it. If you are climbing this unique route – please take care not to damage
or destroy the Donger. Move up into the notch and surmount it (5.2). Step over to the
huge, exposed knob on the right and then continue up to the top of the ridge (class four).
Traverse the ridge for another 60 feet, taking advantage of slingable features and
directional channels in the rock. Belay by slinging a large pointed horn near the end of the
ridge, 100 feet from the start. Walk off. The climbing to the top of the ridge is 45 feet
long. Protection – one bolt and several double-length slings (4 foot).
FA Party: John and Kathy Cook FA Date: 10-29-17
I'd like to dedicate this climb to my mother, Patricia Lawrence. May she rest in peace.
Pebbles and Bam Bam 5.8* - Pebbles and Bam Bam is one of two steep and knobby routes on a
north facing wall below The Teeth. From Hammer in my Heart, walk 75 feet down the
hill to your left (west) and then along the base of the wall until you reach a nice staging area
below The Teeth. Looking up from the staging area, a mossy ramp leads to a wall covered with a
mix of large and huge knobs, several mossy water streaks and looming at the top are giant, head-
like protrusions of rock. The notch where the West Tooth route starts is almost directly above on
your right. Pebbles and Bam Bam starts to the right of the left-most mossy water chute (on clean,
gray rock) for 3 bolts, moves left into the chute for one bolt and then moves back right to a 5th
bolt and out right and up to finish. It may also be possible to climb straight up from the 5th bolt
but the rock is absolutely filthy and moss covered and that is not the way the first ascent was
achieved. Walk/scramble (up and right) about 15 feet from the top of the route to a 2-bolt anchor
with chains, located above one of the most unique pieces of rock in Pinnacles – The Recliner.
Take a seat on this amazing stone chair and relax after climbing - with incredible views.
FA Party: John and Kathy Cook FA Date: 11-19-17
Betty and Barney 5.6* - Betty and Barney starts up the mossy water streak 12 feet right of
Pebbles and Bam Bam. The original plan to climb to the right of this chute/streak on the clean
gray blunt arete was thwarted by poor rock quality (for drilling). The rock looks great but every
tested spot rang/sounded hollow. Climb big holds to a steep stance and the first bolt. Move
up past the first bolt where a giant rectangular lodestone can be slung if desired. The second bolt
can be clipped when standing on this same lodestone. Stem up past the second bolt and reach
high to make a slabby/mantly exit. Walk/scramble up to the anchor above The Recliner. Rappel
the face between the two climbs. FA Party: John and Kathy Cook FA Date: 2-4-18
Long in the Tooth 5.8** - This route starts at the base of the slightly northwest facing wall
below West Tooth and climbs to the summit of West Tooth (on the opposite side from the
original route). From staging at Pebbles and Bam Bam/Betty and Barney, walk 40 feet down
(west) and around the toe of the ridge that comprises The Teeth.
Pitch 1 - 5.7 - Climb up past 3 bolts and then make a traverse left into an obvious chute. A huge
lodestone can be slung in the chute (6-foot sling) to protect the final moves to the 2-bolt
anchor/belay above. 75 feet.
Pitch 2 - 5.8 - climb up and right above the anchor (the Take a Knee Traverse) and then
start up the steep face past 3 closely spaced bolts. Past the 3rd bolt, an easy runout leads to
one more bolt that protects moves to the “peek-a-boo” anchor. The true summit can be reached
by moving up and left from the anchor to reach the “armpit” of the hole-in-the-arch and then
back right to stand on the big knob inches below the anchor. The anchor was placed lower than
the summit in the concave hollow, due to the total lack of surface area and drillable rock on
the summit (the summit sounds like styrofoam or cardboard when struck with a hammer).
Careful rappelling over a wildly exposed and then overhanging line deposits you back perfectly
at the p1 anchor. Belaying your follower from the top of pitch 2 is not recommended.
FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Kathy Cook FA Date: 11-8-17
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The Heart of Pinnacles - Hammer in My Heart climbs the left skyline.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/37056013392_b98643b3f0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsvKLC)
Inspecting The Donger on Hammer in My Heart - that lodestone the rope is draped over is the loose knob in the description.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/38048404621_f177945808_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZYd27e)
Has anyone played around on the new version of Google Earth? It is crazy cool.
Here is a screen shot showing The Teeth on the left and you can see The Heart of Pinnacles - start from center and move up and right. See the hole? Wild that the resolution is this good.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4649/26263466198_a8bf2fc349_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G1P8uJ)
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Stance for bolt 4 Pebbles and Bam Bam
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4744/40137364621_306b7baf9f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/249Nu8X)
Stemming up past bolt 2 on Betty and Barney
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4623/26263727728_ca7c74f35c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G1QteS)
Enjoying a rest between anchor bolts on The Recliner
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4524/26770041049_c2a8452647_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GMzsxT)
Coming down after finishing pitch 2 of Long in the Tooth
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4551/38222546756_a8a9bd4029_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21eAxuQ)
clink below me at the pitch 1 anchor as he lowers me from the pitch 2 anchor on Long in the Tooth.
We were shocked at how well the pitch 2 anchor deposited me back at the pitch 1 anchor.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4549/38296414461_2c5b2158bd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21m88MX)
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That is/was cool!
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I have to ask. Is this part of the traverse that goes from one side of the ridge to the other ( starts at one end of Knuckle Ridge and goes to the other end )?
clink and I finished this route on the back side of Knuckle Ridge last Friday. It turned out to be more fun than expected. The rock quality kept getting better as we got higher and there is some interesting movement - step-throughs, slab moves, hidden sidepulls...
Stays in shade for most of the day.
We found an old hex head bolt (probably a drop-in anchor) with a Leeper up top - oriented along the ridge as if someone had used it for pro or used it to get down in the vicinity of the chimney (which is part of the Knuckle Ridge menagerie - see route correction number 28). Can't imagine how we missed it the day Noal, Brad, Kat and I investigated the Traverse.
O Brother Where Art Thou? 5.6* - climbs the west side of the 4th Knuckle along the far left-hand edge. 5 bolts lead to a two-bolt anchor with chains, 60 feet from the start. FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Caleb Rightmyer, Kathy Cook, Brad Young. FA Date: 2-2-18
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4626/40092086602_68ebf6c863_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/245Nqys)
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The belay seat looks cool.
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I have to ask. Is this part of the traverse that goes from one side of the ridge to the other ( starts at one end of Knuckle Ridge and goes to the other end )?
O Brother! - Just kidding :biggrin:
I'm glad you asked that question. The chimney to the left of the new route is the 4th class way to the top of the left 5th Knuckle and from the top of that same chimney, a short face (10 feet of 5.3) leads to the top of the 4th Knuckle. After 10 or 15 feet of walking along the ridge top (maybe more - I didn't measure) - you stumble over that old bolt we found - which is oriented in line with the ridge top.
From Correction 28
28. Correction, pages 149 and 150 (route 383 “Knuckle Ridge Traverse”)
Knuckle Ridge 5.3 R This mountaineering style route gains all five summits of Knuckle Ridge by the easiest possible means. In each case, “the easiest possible means” is by first ascending a slot or chimney from the west side of the formation and then climbing to a summit from there. As described below, a climber will return to the ground (to change chimneys) between some summit ascents. By way of further reference, the “knuckles” of Knuckle Ridge are numbered one through five from south to north. This route ascends the fifth through the first knuckles, as follows:
- The fifth (north-most) summit is easy to reach by way of the small slot/chimney between it and the fourth summit.
- The fourth summit is reached by 10 feet of 5.3 done just above the same slot. Return to the ground on the west side of the ridge after these two summits.
Here is a photo topo of the new route
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4612/40106417192_5acca4ff5f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2474SxA)
Here is the old bolt - oriented in line with the ridge traverse
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4666/40106477862_c963af2e15_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2475bzC)
The strange thing is it is oriented to the right (3rd knuckle) as if they either used it for pro (no need that I saw) or to rappel over the front side or the end of the 4th Knuckle - maybe to get to the 3rd Knuckle? Things that make ya go hmmmmm.
I couldn't get a socket over it and we couldn't get it loose with a crescent wrench to see what type of bolt it is - I suspect it is a drop in.
Here's a shot showing all 5 Knuckles from their back side (west side) and The Outcast. Just for clarification - The old bolt is pointing toward the Outcast.
(from left to right 5 4 3 2 1 Outcast) for those unfamiliar with the formation
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4710/28358788039_875f993b05_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KcYcFn)
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The belay seat looks cool.
It honestly is like nothing else I have ever seen - it is like someone sculpted the damn thing.
It is even big enough to be cozy for two and the view is unreal :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Thank you for the clarification. I did not use a rope when I did the traverse so I cannot speak in regards to the bolts. I think most of the chimneys have been climbed at one time or another so perhaps it was used in that regards. Or, perhaps they were bored.
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There is a fun bouldering wall out there that we spent a fair bit of time on. Seems to me it was not to far from Knuckle Ridge but before the Shaft.
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Thank you for the clarification. I did not use a rope when I did the traverse so I cannot speak in regards to the bolts. I think most of the chimneys have been climbed at one time or another so perhaps it was used in that regards. Or, perhaps they were bored.
No sweat.
The bolt is definitely a mystery. I figured if we had seen it years ago, I would have made a note in my climbing log - but there is nothing there and no notes in my guidebook either. Looks like there is an anchor on every summit or within scrambling distance of each summit (except the 5th Knuckle) - from subsequent or old routes.
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There is a fun bouldering wall out there that we spent a fair bit of time on. Seems to me it was not to far from Knuckle Ridge but before the Shaft.
Might be where climberdude did some new climbs - lots of rock out there :thumbup: :biggrin:
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The Heart of Pinnacles - Hammer in My Heart climbs the left skyline.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/37056013392_b98643b3f0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsvKLC)
The chance to find, explore and name such a unique feature is a treat. Maybe even a gift. Lucky you.
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Cool that you found such a unique formation to dedicate in memory of your mother.
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As JC mentioned, there is a lot of rock out in the area. I have not developed any climbs on formations between The Knuckles and The Shaft. Pisa Pinnacle, where I put up two climbs, is further north/northwest from the Shaft. There is an overhanging north side of Pisa Pinnacle which perhaps could have potential boulder problems, but I would question how well the features are attached. The climbs I put up on Pisa Pinnacle are on the slabby west side ("Black Sun In A White World") and the somewhat steeper south side ("Silence Has A Right To Be Heard") of Pisa Pinnacle. If one looks from the Reservoir up to the south side of the High Peaks, you can see the reason Pisa Pinnacle got its name.
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The chance to find, explore and name such a unique feature is a treat. Maybe even a gift. Lucky you.
Truly a gift. I feel so lucky to be a part of the Pinnacles community. I also have to give the real credit to clink. He made his way around and down along the wall to find this beauty on a day when we were exploring. He clung to the other side and did a peek-a-boo though the hole before I made my way around from the top to take that picture.
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Cool that you found such a unique formation to dedicate in memory of your mother.
Thanks buddy. I spent some time with mom out on the rocks today :thumbup: :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin:
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I saw Jennifer Wang with some friends in the parking lot today.
They were headed out to The Hand to climb Love Line.
Jennifer said she and a friend had already spent 8 hours trying to work through the route - that is some serious determination.
I got some pics but probably won't have time to post for a couple days.
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Good for them! Make it happen!
JC, I don't think we're going to make it tomorrow at all. :(
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Good for them! Make it happen!
JC, I don't think we're going to make it tomorrow at all. :(
Bummer bro.
Saw Gavin this morning too and he may join us tamale.
Give Cheez a squeeze for me and have fun on the ice if you two go :biggrin:
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Gavin snuck up on us about two-thirds of the way up the Chalone Peak trail.
I had the pleasure of watching him climb Long in the Tooth with Kat. She had climbed pitch one but not pitch two.
They dug it.
I was only sorry I could not get further downhill with a big lens for some better shots.
The Frog, Hand or better yet The Outback would be a good spot to catch this one.
Gavin left to get some more climbing in with Brian and Whitney while Kat and I summited a new pinnacle.
Of course this was after I realized I had forgotten my harness - how embarrassing!
Saw Savannah, Emily and a few of their friends on the way out.
Fun day.
Tomorrow should be fun too - meeting clink and a sizable contingent on the west side.
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Tomorrow should be fun too - meeting clink and a sizable contingent on the west side.
Here's a couple shots from the fun today :thumbup: :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4712/39504839634_35eef848f3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23bUCuJ)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4610/26343562708_288bff0ac3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8TDp3)
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A few shots from Gavin and Kat's 2nd ascent of Long in the Tooth on Saturday
Gavin at the p2 anchor with Kat at p1 anchor - Pitch 1 goes up right of the skyline (can't be seen in this pic) - same goes for pitch 2
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4627/40183768772_f0213cb555_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24dUjtw)
Kat at the last lead bolt as Gavin sets up the rappel.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4661/26343788578_8f897c3367_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8UNxm)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/26343869308_13f83f65ec_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8Vdxf)
Kat goes free on the rappel
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4756/40183768302_c68c3da31b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24dUjkq)
Gavin gets to the wild part - check out the jet too :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4760/26343788458_d792766684_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8UNvh)
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looks awesome, on both counts
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Here is the info on the new route Kat and I did on Saturday.
Molar 5.3R About half the climbing on this short route happens on a slab that is adjacent to and separated from Molar by a gap. Approach by moving uphill and across (southwest) about 25 feet from the point where The Heart of Pinnacles ridge dies into the hill. Enter a shallow corridor and climb up a clean slab (mossy at the base) until you can stem across the gap to Molar. Reach high into the chute on Molar and grab a huge hand hold that allows you to commit over and into the chute. Climb to the top past the two-bolt anchor with chains. A short rappel (30 feet) returns you to the start.
Here is a photo topo. It is hard to see the gap between the pinnacle (Molar) and the slab next to it but you will become aware of it (and the drop over the other side) if you do the climb. You could probably sling the huge hand hold - so it may not end up with an R. I also debated whether or not to put an anchor on the climb, since a Pinnacles rappel could easily be arranged. In the end I decided an anchor would be better for multiple reasons. I found no evidence that this summit had ever been climbed.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4650/39333008755_73bfb34b7b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22VHXan)
Here is a photo taken from the top of the wall looking down. You can see the drill dust from the anchor under the M in Molar.
The belay knob I labeled is the one I used for Hammer in My Heart.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4623/26358136788_43ba31d9b2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GabkLh)
Here is a location shot from Google Earth. Forgive me if this seems like overkill but I have a lot of fun making this stuff and sharing it. I still cannot get over how cool the new version of Google Earth is :thumbup: :biggrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4620/39333008445_123b444c45_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22VHX52)
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That top down view is very helpful. I have no way to orient from prior descriptions.
Look forward to a day when I can get on a bunch of these new lines.
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That top down view is very helpful. I have no way to orient from prior descriptions.
Look forward to a day when I can get on a bunch of these new lines.
Cool. I think you will like it. I think we have probably been up there 9 or 10 times now. I still haven't done the old routes!
With the old and new routes there are 10 now and still some enticing looking lines :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Happy Valentines Day to all you mudders
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/37056013392_b98643b3f0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YsvKLC)
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I love Valentine's Day.
I love it because Vicki and I agreed long ago that it's a totally artificial "holiday." We both skip it (and spread that allotment of love out over the rest of the year).
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I love Valentine's Day.
I love it because Vicki and I agreed long ago that it's a totally artificial "holiday." We both skip it (and spread that allotment of love out over the rest of the year).
Same here for Mrs. Munge and I. We might do little things during the week, but trying to go out or big batches of flowers on the day of is pure insanity.
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Same here for Mrs. Munge and I. We might do little things during the week, but trying to go out or big batches of flowers on the day of is pure insanity.
Right there with you guys - nothing fancy for us either. Usually JC makes me a card which is so much better than a store bought one.
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I got the dog a bone
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We are having a "meat" themed Valentines.
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A lovely Valentines Day joke;
MARRIED TENNESSEE FOOTBALL PLAYER
Q: How can you tell if a University of Tennessee football player is married?
A: There is tobacco spit on both sides of his pickup truck.
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JC, you should write for Hallmark.
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Kat and I climbed the Shako today and the routes are fun.
Back Track feels old school and like a mini mountaineering adventure.
In terms of gear I used a red alien, a blue tricam and a blue camalot.
The upper loose part felt a little scary mainly because it is awkward with no pro.
I put a sling on the tree before I leaned back and started climbing. I put another sling on the high crook as a directional for Kat. There is a wide crack/squeeze chimney that could be climbed if the tree ever bites the dust.
Hat Trick was fun. The pin protects (what felt like the crux of the climb to me) perfectly.
The bolts and the anchor are very nice. I didn't place any gear but there were a few opportunities.
Cool spot and a nice addition to the ridge.
Never gonna do it without your fez on...
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Done with Shako.
Time for a late lunch Snack-o :yesnod: :biggrin: :ihih:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/40351458911_14c96c4743_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24tHLUP)
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Nice pic of you two :)
Rose and Jason climbed four of the snakes and were asking when are we going climbing next. Brad and Brian battled over the bulges this weekend. Caleb and Layton jumped into all the mix.
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Forecast was pure funk today and Kat was feeling a bit under the weather so we sat it out. Looks like it was a frigid day with high temp of 47 and sun peaked, then took a dive around noon. Brad and crew were supposed to be out there - musta been butt cold - especially since wind was still gusting up around 20mph - peaked at 27 at 3:30.
We hiked down from Pea Break to Nebulous Knob yesterday and took a gander - looks like a cool route but I figured I'd wait until I can replace the bolts and climb some of the other stuff around there - plus we were tired and it was already cool and really windy (wind was up in the 30mph range yesterday).
Climber coffee was fun yesterday. Stop by and say hi 8:30 to 10:00 on Sundays for the next couple months (bring a mug).
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Kat and I climbed the Shako today and the routes are fun.
Back Track feels old school and like a mini mountaineering adventure.
In terms of gear I used a red alien, a blue tricam and a blue camalot.
The upper loose part felt a little scary mainly because it is awkward with no pro.
I put a sling on the tree before I leaned back and started climbing. I put another sling on the high crook as a directional for Kat. There is a wide crack/squeeze chimney that could be climbed if the tree ever bites the dust.
Hat Trick was fun. The pin protects (what felt like the crux of the climb to me) perfectly.
The bolts and the anchor are very nice. I didn't place any gear but there were a few opportunities.
Cool spot and a nice addition to the ridge.
Never gonna do it without your fez on...
Figuring out a finish for Back Track was difficult.
I agree that the upper loose part (just before reaching the tree) was scary and awkward. I was relieved to put a sling around its trunk. And then I tried the short chimney section just left of the tree. I got in a poor quality cam and the moves felt like they were going to be 5.8 or 5.9. I liked the sling around that tree. But even doubled in length it still created a cluster f#$%. And finishing a fun, mountaineering-type route with a difficult, poorly protected chimney seemed like a bad choice (especially since Tricia was following).
Moving right to finish on Hat Trick didn't seem like a good choice either. Too far right.
I didn't like the "tree-assisted" finish, but it was the lesser of three evils.
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Forecast was pure funk today and Kat was feeling a bit under the weather so we sat it out. Looks like it was a frigid day with high temp of 47 and sun peaked, then took a dive around noon. Brad and crew were supposed to be out there - musta been butt cold - especially since wind was still gusting up around 20mph - peaked at 27 at 3:30.
We hiked down from Pea Break to Nebulous Knob yesterday and took a gander - looks like a cool route but I figured I'd wait until I can replace the bolts and climb some of the other stuff around there - plus we were tired and it was already cool and really windy (wind was up in the 30mph range yesterday).
Climber coffee was fun yesterday. Stop by and say hi 8:30 to 10:00 on Sundays for the next couple months (bring a mug).
I arrived at upper parking yesterday to very light snow flurries (I was the first one there). We hiked to and climbed the JC/KC/Clink routes in the New World. In snow flurries. I spent most of the day in two shirts and two jackets!
This morning it's 18 degrees here at home.
Any details about the coffee? Lots of visitors? Ratio of climbers to curious non-climbers? Quality of the coffee ;)
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^^^
Photos coming, but I haven't even unloaded the car yet.
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Quit lollygagging.
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Figuring out a finish for Back Track was difficult.
Sounds like the origin of the name.
I agree that the upper loose part (just before reaching the tree) was scary and awkward. I was relieved to put a sling around its trunk. And then I tried the short chimney section just left of the tree. I got in a poor quality cam and the moves felt like they were going to be 5.8 or 5.9. I liked the sling around that tree. But even doubled in length it still created a cluster f#$%. And finishing a fun, mountaineering-type route with a difficult, poorly protected chimney seemed like a bad choice (especially since Tricia was following).
Moving right to finish on Hat Trick didn't seem like a good choice either. Too far right.
I didn't like the "tree-assisted" finish, but it was the lesser of three evils.
I stepped up on a boulder at the base of the tree and girth hitched a sling up above my head to get started and then eventually another in the upper tree crook. I laid back off the left trunk of the tree with both hands on opposite sides and just monkeyed up until I could swing into the crook between the two trunks - discarding any sense of rock climbing and channeling my inner chimp. I girth hitched the second sling and then cast off a second time on the tree to gain the top of the rock. Kat traversed around right after the initial tree climb - avoiding the second shorter tree climb. She didn't have to go very far and it seemed way easier.
Eyeballing the second of three phases on Back Track.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4615/40339217482_61445dda3e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24sD2XG)
Moving through the attention getting section above bolt 1 on Hat Trick
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4664/39673523884_81e2a7f657_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23rPbrS)
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Taking belay duty seriously (at The Northeast Frontier, while Brian drills):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4603/40389384371_6a6c8a7bd1_c.jpg)
Top Knot Pinnacle yesterday (in conditions that are about as different from the first ascent as possible):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4762/39492672055_811d7b0ba2_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4707/40389393221_0f74e6e5f6_c.jpg)
Snow flakes blow by as Sonja rappels from The Flask:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4616/40389396781_8d34b8f252_c.jpg)
Snow as we hike out:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4610/39492771445_6b3b41c88f_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4707/39492772505_020da0423b_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4741/39492773165_5d26bef28e_c.jpg)
Snow as we pass Cortadura Wall:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4750/39492773835_614835d0ef_c.jpg)
Snowing lightly with the High Peaks in the background:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4709/39492774615_ac73223c6d_c.jpg)
None of the snow stuck of course. But I kept laughing at our cold conditions as I compared them to the wilting heat that the first ascent party encountered in The New World ;D
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Those are some great people and summit shots - especially The Flask.
The hero shot on Top Knot is fun too.
I was surprised by the size of that summit - it looks so small from certain angles.
Looks like you guys had fun despite the weather.
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Who is behind Sonja in the trail pic?
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Who is behind Sonja in the trail pic?
That's her boyfriend Eban (no typo). He's Skelton's age, started climbing in 1968. Hasn't done much at Pinnacles though. He seemed to have a ball (as did all of us).
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That's her boyfriend Eban (no typo). He's Skelton's age, started climbing in 1968. Hasn't done much at Pinnacles though. He seemed to have a ball (as did all of us).
I may have met him a few weeks ago when I talked mostly to Jennifer in the parking lot. That reminds me - I left her a note that I would post a pic of them on the Hand. I think I fell down on the job.
Did you guys have tick talk? Kat and I picked up a multitude of them on the exploration of Nebulous Knob - due to the cool temps no doubt. I figured you guys would be inundated up there.
Here are a pic of Jennifer on Love Line
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4711/39495121285_2df8b4e7b1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23b3PyZ)
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clink, KC and I finished a new route in the NE Frontier on Saturday while Brad and Jennifer were finishing another route.
clink took the lead and drilled two bolts from awkward stances to set me up for the crux.
It was funny, because looking at that section from below, it looks like it is just going to be fun. Then you get up there and realize how awkward and strange the movement is. I have to compliment clink on his choice of placements and how well protected the climb is through the difficulties. Mud and I were discussing clink's ability to tough out weird stances and get bolts in quickly. His abilities are truly admirable.
After he set the trap, clink came down and suggested I go up and check it out, clean some (by hanging if necessary) and then see if I could get above there and get another bolt in. I got up to a good stemming stance and started reaching around. Spoiler Alert - To my surprise, there was a deep and very secure mono digit that you cannot see. It doesn't help you make progress, but it allows you to feel around and get set for the moves. What I find even more amusing is the fact that there is also a mono digit on Soap Box Slab (the next route over).
I brushed off a foothold on the face with my fingers and decided to try moving up. I thought I heard clink say - There he goes.
Once above the crux, I placed a bolt from a slabby stance and looked ahead. We decided the most logical path would be to join Soap Box Slab at its next bolt. clink lowered me off and I led clean back up to the bolt I had just placed. From there, a mossy and slightly loose traverse up and right gets you to the stance and 4th bolt on Soap Box Slab.
Trifecta 5.8 Trifecta starts 20 feet left (downhill) of Soapbox Slab and climbs past 5 bolts, joining Soapbox Slab at its 4th bolt, 60 feet from the start. Finish on Soapbox Slab (2 more bolts).
FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Kathy Cook FA Date: 2-24-18
clink drilling the crux bolt utilizing his strength, stamina and Pretzel Logic :biggrin: :yesnod: :thumbup: :ihih:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4670/25632239647_2f721116f3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/F42VQk)
Sussing out the crux section
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4615/39607257865_ca50a4fe56_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23kXxSi)
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Nice and congratulations!
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So was the twinsies clothing done on purpose (says the guy who's happened to grab an orange T shirt to wear that day)?
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Nice and congratulations!
Thanks Mud. Sounds like you guys have some great routes and I better start climbing harder :lol:
So was the twinsies clothing done on purpose (says the guy who's happened to grab an orange T shirt to wear that day)?
I actually had my green Pinns t-shirt on under the sweatshirt so I am glad you were representing. I am surprised the crud didn't spit me off at the crux :yesnod: :biggrin: I was chuckling at our dark light opposite choices in pants and knee pads.
I told clink on the way out that I couldn't get used to his new pack (actually resurrected) and that next time I could bring him one of our extra jet packs with a bunch of little black pouches and a visor if he would prefer that. :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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If you liked my rebolting TR, here's a few more pictures of Nebulous Knob.
It's a bit of a chore to get to, mainly because the slope is steep, off camber and a huge tree fell on the old approach path just a few yards from where it leaves the Condor Gulch Trail. If you move up the main trail a bit further (maybe 50 feet), the slope down is relatively clear. Aim for a huge boulder in the stream drainage and watch for Poison Oak. Cross a log jam and then head up mossy slabs that lead to a fairly well trodden access path. The path follows high above the drainage about midway along the slope with some ups and downs around obstacles. It eventually leads you to some waterfall steps in the drainage before heading a bit further along the slope (a little past the Knob) and then up steep hummocks and loose, loamy scree slopes.
The Knob is a good example of one of those formations that looks totally different from various angles (don't they all?).
Once you have this view, continue past it before you head up (if you want a brush free approach). It's pretty obvious.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4667/25636505707_eb377da0c7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/F4pMZ6)
It looks like you can scramble up from below but there was some PO so we headed up high and then traversed in. There is some scrambling toward the end. The route starts by surmounting several large boulders and then standing atop the last one and leaning over to the formation. It isn't Maniac's Delight but the drop is a heck of a lot farther and the exposure is pretty hairy. Making the move off that boulder on to the formation is damn scary on lead and the rock quality is poor with few holds. It is what Brad and I like to call a huck up move and hard for me to rate. Blow it and you are likely to need a rescue. Felt like classic Pinnacles climbing to me.
Here is Kat working up the nerve to commit to that initial move. It is hard to do even as a follower.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4603/38696716370_90a70c8ddd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21XuMB1)
Happy at the summit. Don't be fooled by how easy this looks. It is really exposed and I think you'll be happy to clip that nice new replacement lead bolt before you head up the final section. The lead bolt is one of those keep you from going all the way bolts and doesn't do a lot in terms of protecting the difficulties above.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4695/38696715950_a72763262c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21XuMtL)
We had quite the condor show while I was working on the rebolt. They came in close once or twice.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4711/40506935551_062c6753c2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24HsCGx)
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Geez, talk about a quest for mud. Toward the end of the day I started feeling like Ron Pearlman's caveman character stranded in the tree by lions the morning after. If you haven't seen Quest for Fire you won't get it and you've also denied yourself a great treat of a movie IMHO.
Jason and I had a bit of misadventure yesterday at The OutBack. Don't get me wrong, we had fun but we spent a large part of the day trying to navigate around the area avoiding PO while we searched for the routes. This was completely my fault. I had been there before and had the initial map, so I didn't see any need to take Brad's updated approach directions. Oops.
We eventually spied an anchor on one of the Central Outback summits and found the cheese at the end of the maze.
We climbed both of those summits and I have to compliment and thank Brad for putting rappel anchors on both of them. We both liked the West summit better and there is a cool corridor with a big tree just below the start that looked like a good place for a nap or a shady picnic. I was about ready to abort finding the Buttress climbs until Jason suggested checking one more thing uphill. It turned out to be a really fun way to end the day. We only had time to climb Off With Her Hands but if that one doesn't get a star, Lonesome Me must be worth two. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: We both though OWHH was star worthy and really fun. It is super steep for the grade, very inviting, well protected and the amount of usable holds is shocking. The anchor was situated nicely to lower off and allow us to take turns leading the route before scrambling back up to the summit to retrieve my alpine draws.
Here is a photo map from Google Earth and a photo topo of Off With Her Hands. The 4th bolt can't be seen until you are very near it. Looking forward to a return trip to climb the other routes and work on some more. :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
The South arrow is slightly skewed but it's only off by a couple degrees. Note other location arrows.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4756/39966625394_d2b2d9ce2d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23THpjb)
photo topo for the very inviting route Off With Her Hands
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4708/39966625464_89ef6da46f.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23THpko)
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Nice JC. The PO is bad out there in places.
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Here are some shots from Monday. I went out with Brad, Russ and Dave to work on some new stuff.
Our first objective was a pinnacle Brad set his sights on up near Clinker.
The approach had some 3rd class and some PO to dodge. The PO in that area is already in full leaf. YUCK!
The climb was super mossy and still a bit damp. A slung tree branch was the only psychological pro.
The branch had way too much sway in it to inspire me to want to trust it.
The route starts in a large saddle that will catch the rope and the leader, providing they fall off to the left.
Brad took the lead and started working on an anchor. I led up and started working on a second anchor bolt.
Dave led last and finished the hole Brad started. Once I had my bolt done I belayed Russ up to join us.
The rappel went free for about the last 20 feet, depositing us in a PO free area. Thanks to Brad for supplying one of the bolts plus the chain and screwlinks.
After The Barge we went and started 2 more new routes. Brad fixed a pin and got a bolt started. Russ and Dave took turns drilling the bolt hole. It was a tough chore using an aider for one foot to gain a stemming stance. Russ and Dave are just getting started with drilling and they did a great job of sticking with it and getting the bolt placed. I got three bolts in the line I started. Looks like both lines will be long and fun when they are finished. Can't wait to get back up there :biggrin:
Brad at the summit (taken from more than halfway up the route, looking at the final furry slab)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4779/39970459314_66be509ac5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23U441f)
Dave and JC drilling the anchor bolts
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4776/26809279818_9398fcf362_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GR3ySo)
Russ nearing the summit
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4781/39970459174_e2b13fcb49_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23U43XQ)
Brad raps first from the nicely equalized anchor
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4799/26809279658_e266d5ea31_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GR3yPC)
The Barge from downhill at the start of the approach
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4774/26809280438_dc558eb52b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GR3z45)
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Anticipating some fun with Brad and Jim in the New World tomorrow.
I don't like the look of the forecast after tomorrow. More rain on the way.
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Anticipating some fun with Brad and Jim in the New World tomorrow.
I don't like the look of the forecast after tomorrow. More rain on the way.
We had a blast getting on top of 2 new summits Thursday and Friday. Jim and Brad took off yesterday afternoon after we finished Quadruple Decker.
The second pitch had a bunch of cool pockets that kept the grade lower than expected. There are now 7 summits done.
Should we write a book?
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We had a blast getting on top of 2 new summits Thursday and Friday. Jim and Brad took off yesterday afternoon after we finished Quadruple Decker.
The second pitch had a bunch of cool pockets that kept the grade lower than expected. There are now 7 summits done.
Should we write a book?
Here's a teaser shot from Google Earth. I'm sure Brad is working on the descriptions for Quadruple Decker and Goliath.
The others are already posted.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4774/40022748064_42edab47a0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23YF3Cq)
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...I'm sure Brad is working on the descriptions for Quadruple Decker and Goliath.
No, as per the email I just sent you: Brad is spending a joyous morning fighting with moronic computer systems while trying to get his new MacBook Pro up and running. Now taking a break to eat, unload the car, check in here... and give Vicki, Jim, and Tricia's ears a break.
PPPPHHHHUUUUUUCCKK!
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^^^^^
All of my notes for new routes, edits and corrections are ready to go for Monday (Ellen will type them up and I will go through multiple sets of edits and then post up).
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^^^^^
Ellen will type them up
then post up.
Where you from, Bitch?
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Where you from, Bitch?
You will be paying for this....
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JC on the Lido Deck of Quadruple Decker looking for cruise director Julie or maybe Isaac to get a drink! :lol: :biggrin: :thumbup:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4792/26864165738_52fc5ef228_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GVTSxm)
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The second pitch had a bunch of cool pockets that kept the grade lower than expected. There are now 7 summits done.
Surprising and cool it went at 5.8. :thumbup:
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Second lead of Goliath:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4782/38928084670_137c067522_c.jpg)
Smiling pretty much ear to ear:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4777/38928085100_89a92bfbe7_c.jpg)
Finishing the class five, almost to the summit:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4778/38928086060_974ee97e13_c.jpg)
Would you trust a summit anchor simul-drilled by these two (hint: you probably already have):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4791/38928086610_66dd3c9688_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4786/38928087700_9d8b6e8b01_c.jpg)
On the summit of Goliath:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4791/26867141128_601e14f3ed_c.jpg)
Leading the first pitch of Quadruple Decker:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4796/40028132264_85b5dc4f7c_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4789/40028139174_a9ebfd429c_c.jpg)
Rappeling off the summit:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4781/40028147074_8c899ab614_c.jpg)
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Sweet! Jim made his climbing pic look harder than JC's. :) Also note that Jim is hammering with the wrong hand again. Who took the summit shot on Goliath?
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I thought that Jim guy was too busy climbing on the east side .
His bolt spacing looks adaquate.
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Who took the summit shot on Goliath?
Primrose
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(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4786/38928087700_9d8b6e8b01_c.jpg)
Looks like a "Who farted?" face to me :lol:
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nice color on the quad
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He should have pushed that bolt up a bit further
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You’ll be fine. Just don’t slip between clips. That ground is dreadfully hard.
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You’ll be fine. Just don’t slip between clips. That ground is dreadfully hard.
Probably he's harder though....
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He should have pushed that bolt up a bit further
The spacing is actually quite spread out. I have to say that I was glad to clip all three of those first pitch bolts and the bolt that Brad placed to get it started is very nicely situated to get through the lower crux on the worst rock. We were also trying to consider the follower. It's a cool climb. I think you would like it Mud. :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Putting things in a more cohesive order. We didn't get a shot of Brad drilling the first bolt. :-\
He should have pushed that bolt up a bit further
The spacing is actually quite spread out. I have to say that I was glad to clip all three of those first pitch bolts and the bolt that Brad placed to get it started is very nicely situated to get through the lower crux on the worst rock. We were also trying to consider the follower. It's a cool climb. I think you would like it Mud. :thumbup: :biggrin:
Leading the first pitch of Quadruple Decker:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4796/40028132264_85b5dc4f7c_c.jpg)
You can see bolts 1 and 2 in the pic above.
This one is Jim drilling bolt 3 from an uncomfortable slabby stance. Knees bent and against the rock with no pads :yikes:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4789/40028139174_a9ebfd429c_c.jpg)
Jim came down after drilling the third bolt. We pulled the rope and I got to lead to the first deck to drill the midway anchor and finish the day.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4792/26864165738_52fc5ef228_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GVTSxm)
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...we didn't get a shot of Brad drilling the first bolt.
Yeah, 'cause you two were smart enough to be out of the sun, exploring other possible lines. You got your comupance an hour later though.
There's been over a third of an inch of rain down there today. A wonderful cleaning of all the drill dust and brushed off holds. Those two formations are gonna be pretty now ;)
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Yeah, 'cause you two were smart enough to be out of the sun, exploring other possible lines. You got your comupance an hour later though.
There's been over a third of an inch of rain down there today. A wonderful cleaning of all the drill dust and brushed off holds. Those two formations are gonna be pretty now ;)
Thank goodness you were tough enough to step up there and get things going.
I had it easy compared to you two. Sometimes it's okay to be last in line :ihih:
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...I had it easy compared to you two. Sometimes it's okay to be last in line :ihih:
Maybe.
I do recall that, of the three of us, you were the only one who had to stand there and drill while I drooled, exclaimed, laughed and rambled on about the wonderful holes above. That must have been difficult, a true hardship ::)
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That is a funny self description.
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Brief surprise after my Quest yesterday.
Pot o gold on the mighty Rift.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4783/39034223870_3524e540b0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22tjAPQ)
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Nice pic
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Nice pic
Thanks dude. Kat and I returned to the site today and finished the route I started Thursday.
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Man it was nice out there today. I feel lucky.
Got to hang out and climb with Gavin and Alacia and some young folks. (Kristen, Kimber and Nico sp?)
Also got to hike in with Brad, Katie, Hitch and Phoebe to the res.
Looking forward to more outings of a similar nature.
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Katie and her cousins high up at Pinnacles:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/793/40054291305_8a0e190815_c.jpg)
Hitch following Molar:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/797/40948342991_eaebe0e9a3_c.jpg)
(Can anyone see these photos? I'm not sure Flickr is working correctly on my new computer)
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Yes
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Is that a new bi-pattern Pinnacles rope?(as in New England black yellow Pinnacles model?)
Nice slingable feature by the way :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
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Is that a new bi-pattern Pinnacles rope?(as in New England black yellow Pinnacles model?)
Nice slingable feature by the way :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
Not a bi-pattern rope at all - that's just the difference between the part of the rope that's in the sun and the part that's not!
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I made my own bi-pattern rope. I put half in a box and the other half I left out in the sun for a couple of months. If anybody wants one just give me your rope. I might be able to speed up the process to 6 weeks by putting it in the window of my car. No charge.
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:)
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I made my own bi-pattern rope. I put half in a box and the other half I left out in the sun for a couple of months. If anybody wants one just give me your rope. I might be able to speed up the process to 6 weeks by putting it in the window of my car. No charge.
Hard pass. I have the new fluid rope :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Got up to The Bachelor today after Climber Coffee and took an alternate way to the summit that Brad told me about - thanks Brad! We would have done Young and Single too but the weather turned kooky - cold, windy and hailing. We'll have to go back. Hiked out with climberdude and got to stop and chat with T O Double D by the res.
Here's the new route and some pics
Things Not Rings 5.3
Move 35 feet west from the start of Young and Single and scramble 35 feet up a very low angle slab with patches of moss and dirt. At the top of the slab curve around left (south then southeast) for 25 feet and move up into a slot/chute. Follow along and then slightly down the chute until it is easy to climb to a shoulder and the first bolt. The bolt protects moves out, up, and left to a sub summit (exposed). From the top of the sub summit, lean over and clip the second bolt. From the second bolt, move left and slightly down to a knob (exposed). Step out left onto a cracked lodestone and big solid handholds which allow easy climbing to the anchor on Young and Single. Continue to the true summit if desired as for Young and Single.
FA Party: John and Kathy Cook FA date: 3-25-18
Drilling the first bolt
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/820/26150487267_4391a57739_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FQQ5N8)
Dark cloud that moved over while I was drilling
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/801/40979257212_97ab0c37b3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25rcpts)
Hail on Kat's pants at the belay - note to self - stand up when hail starts to keep from getting too wet
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/800/26150486947_66937927e6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FQQ5GB)
Hail in the chute below the first bolt stance - my heel is visible in the upper right corner
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/787/40979257012_0b909afa8c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25rcpq1)
Getting a second bolt in to gain the summit
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/793/26150486657_b48749c6e3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FQQ5BB)
Thanks again to Brad for the suggestion and also for that nicely equalized anchor :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
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Very nice! You found the LOLR for sure.
Those clouds sprinkled hard on us for ten minutes about 40 miles east of you (heading south on highway 41).
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Can you say “hail on Kat’s pants” three times fast?
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It was great to see JC and KC on Sunday at The Bachelor. I finished climbing all of the routes in The New World in the morning and was planning to go to the climbs at Rubble Wall when it started hailing very hard, so I hiked to the top of North Chalone Peak, which I had never done before. On the hike down, I heard some familiar voices from below me at the Bachelor. I hiked up to meet JC and KC as well as look at the new Young route. In the New World area, I particularly liked "Quadruple Decker", "Uncorked", "Goliath", and "Top Knot".
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Rope soloing Uncorked is. :)
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It was rad meeting you guys JC and Kc, Climber Dude. I gotta start exploring more of Pinnacles and check out some of the routes past the res. I’ve been stuck climbing the usual crags/routes too many times. We had a really good time top roping some harder routes for us at Upper Crust though. The cold sure made things challenging. My fingers went numb several times and it was hard to tell how good a hold was.
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We climbed Young and Single today.
I used that big plate at the end of the long shoulder to rig a directional for Kat's follow.
Afterwards, I bolted the water chute (not the groove) under the rappel. Really good rock and steep, fun climbing.
I'll write a description tamale.
Love 'Em and Leave 'Em 5.7*
Kat on the follow
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/869/40278983275_98079b2f39_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24njjqT)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/871/41130461892_1ef612b238_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25EynmG)
Me drilling the third bolt
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/799/40278982665_f9bd9c1435_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24njjfn)
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Looks like a good route (it looked like it when we rapped over it too).
Because of the late hour, and the surprise at the path the route was taking, I used that big (really big) plate too, to belay Hitch and Phoebe up so that they could help drill the second bolt.
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And again, nice name (although I certainly, certainly hope that you're not intending that as advice now are you?). ;)
I'm hoping it's dry enough after Saturday that I can get on these and the lines I haven't done at Rubble !!!!
(Rain rain go away....)
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Looks like a good route (it looked like it when we rapped over it too).
Because of the late hour, and the surprise at the path the route was taking, I used that big (really big) plate too, to belay Hitch and Phoebe up so that they could help drill the second bolt.
Edit:
I figured you had to have looked at it. I couldn't resist starting up it and then I couldn't stop.
Kind of reminds me of the climbing on Here's Mud In Your Eye - but with a wandering/puzzling nature.
After getting up to the shoulder, I wondered how Hitch and Phoebe followed without being scared silly at the swing potential after unclipping the first bolt.
I'm sure you told me that but I forgot. It was a good exercise in how not to screw your follower :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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And again, nice name (although I certainly, certainly hope that you're not intending that as advice now are you?). ;)
I'm hoping it's dry enough after Saturday that I can get on these and the lines I haven't done at Rubble !!!!
(Rain rain go away....)
Kat came up with the name after thinking about what bachelors do.
Agreed - no more rain!
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...I couldn't resist starting up it and then I couldn't stop.
And this is a new experience for you how? :o
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Here's the route description. The climb is borderline 2 stars.
Love ‘Em and Leave ‘Em 5.7* - start this route by making a few moves up the groove described in Young and Single. After a couple moves, reach right to a baseball-sized knob and move right and up to the first bolt. Two more bolts protect steep climbing up the wall/shallow chute. Exit the chute and continue up and right to reach the last bolt on Things Not Rings, finishing on that route.
FA Party: John and Kathy Cook FA Date: 4-1-18
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No wonder I am sore today :biggrin: :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/868/26319085507_0622e55aca_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G6Jcbk)
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I met some interesting characters the last couple days.
Wednesday I met Sergio. He was telling me about days climbing with Barbella, Jim (he, like others. calls him James) and some other mud masters. He said that over time his partners quit climbing or moved away and he gradually stopped. He said one of his last partners (Slate Williams) now lives in/near the Sierra. I immediately recognized the name - no doubt from perusing the SPH guidebook and the conversation went on from there. He wished me luck on the day when we got to the Rim Trail. I was fired up to replace some bolts but realized I could not do the job without someone to hold me in to the wall on the overhanging sections. I returned to the car, dumped all the rebolting gear and headed out to quest for mud. I only managed to get one bolt placed but it was a good feeling.
Yesterday I met an older guy on the trail. We got to talking and he asked where I was going. When I said where I was headed, he asked if I was headed to the Yaks. I could tell right away he was well acquainted with Pinns. I slowed down to share the walk with him and we talked all the way to the Res. He told me some cool stories and shared some other interesting stuff. One thing that really blew me away was him talking about climbing The Hand before Salathe had bolts or had cleaned up.
His name is Reb Monaco (pronounced Muh-knock-oh). Talking with him was the highlight of my day.
I met another guy on the way out - Glenn from Sports Basement. He was hiking up from the climber's access trail to The Hand/Frog. I asked if he had been climbing and he said yes. I asked where and he said Crud and Mud. I asked what routes he had climbed and he said all of 'em. Well, he hadn't quite climbed them all but it sounded like he got a nice sampling. He had the guidebook but was not familiar with this site. I clued him in and told him about the upcoming MoM. I was kicking myself for forgetting to mention that to Reb. I think both of them would enjoy meeting and jaw jabbering with the crew.
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sounds cool.
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Those do all sound like interesting people.
One thing that really blew me away was him talking about climbing The Hand before Salathe had bolts or had cleaned up.
How old was this guy? You might have had a super natural experience.
Sounds like a good birthday.
Edit: around what year was the salathe route retro-bolted?
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How old was this guy? You might have had a super natural experience.
Sounds like a good birthday.
Edit: around what year was the salathe route retro-bolted?
That thought crossed my mind. :idea:
73. That would make him 2 when the Salathe went up.
He says he tries to make it a point to get out and hike at Pinns once a month.
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It was done with pitons. Wondering how long it was like that before somebody bolted it.
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It was done with pitons. Wondering how long it was like that before somebody bolted it.
Edit:
Roper mentions all the bolts (1966). Hammack (below) mentions bolts in the future? and past tense but seemingly ambiguous (should be used, have been used). Nothing about a bolt on the 1st pitch traverse. :yikes:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/870/41241601572_a87495b626.jpg)
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I guess no one knows :biggrin:
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It was done with pitons. Wondering how long it was like that before somebody bolted it.
Me too.
I guess no one knows Big Grin
Someone knew. The suggestion of adding bolts is interesting.
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Me too.
Someone knew. The suggestion of adding bolts is interesting.
The wording in the Hammack guide is interesting. They refer to the use of bolts but never actually clearly say there are any.
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On a side note - it looks like the rain may have stopped for now.
I had fingers crossed yesterday when the percentage was 90 or 100 and it only actually tipped .03.
It dribbled a little in the evening (another .02) and then picked up around midnight and came down steadily all night - .4 more.
Sun is out now and hopefully it will dry enough to enable my quest to continue tomorrow.
I should be used to such uncertainty.
I have been used to it the last few years.
That being said, the Pinns can be quite the weather anomaly at times, indicating the use of caution when making plans.
It's always good to have a Plan B :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Did they place the bolts on lead or gasp....rappel?
We need to know.
I'm sure the rain helped the PO sprouting....
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I'm sure the rain helped the PO sprouting....
It doesn't need any help. Have you seen it lately?
About to swipe hands, face, ankles along a few narrow spots on the trail to the Res. :yikes:
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Did they place the bolts on lead or gasp....rappel?
Or in Knickers 'n Lace
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Or in Knickers 'n Lace
That was what they wore under their knickers.
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Just tryin' to figure out if John saw a ghost.
Maybe it was some kind of rap Boltin',knicker and lace wearin' kinda of ghost.
Scary.
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The way I read that article is that they established the route without bolts then on subsequent ascents added bolts.
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This is probably worth starting a new thread but it was also part of the ongoing Quest for Mud.
Brad and I just spent the last 3 days having an amazing time confirming some new routes and climbing some of the old ones and bonus - I got to replace some 50+ year old hardware. To me there is nothing better. Brad also has a real gift when it comes to problem solving skills on the old routes. We did some tricky stuff :thumbup: :yesnod: :ihih:
We spent a day at The Bachelor and another 2 at Rubble Wall.
One more trip out to Rubble and I'll have all the old hardware replaced.
I'll follow up with some pics in a bit. :biggrin:
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Brad is working on compiling and posting all the new routes. Here is a teaser in the interim.
Latest new route on The Bachelor - Disposable Income 5.8 - not sure about a star - pretty sure 4 of the people that climbed it (3 of them led it - me, Fletcher, Gavin) thought it was worthy and fun. Steep, sustained, interesting holds and thoughtful movement, really well protected. Wanders up much easier but somewhat exposed terrain along the LOLR after the last bolt. Single half inch bolt supplements a belay quality torpedo of rock at the top. Gavin liked it better than Love 'Em and Leave 'Em (which definitely gets a star). :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/787/26545465317_25cbc607cb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GrJs1v)
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...Brad also has a real gift when it comes to problem solving skills on the old routes. We did some tricky stuff :thumbup: :yesnod: :ihih:
Thanks for a very nice compliment. Keep in mind my incentive for finding safe solutions - I've got to keep your lily-white butt alive and kicking so that I've got someone around who's crazy enough to do this sh#t with me.
I am indeed working on new route descriptions in between real work. I'll also post up some photos as I can get to them at home.
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This is probably worth starting a new thread but it was also part of the ongoing Quest for Mud.
Brad and I just spent the last 3 days having an amazing time confirming some new routes and climbing some of the old ones and bonus - I got to replace some 50+ year old hardware. To me there is nothing better. Brad also has a real gift when it comes to problem solving skills on the old routes. We did some tricky stuff :thumbup: :yesnod: :ihih:
We spent a day at The Bachelor and another 2 at Rubble Wall.
One more trip out to Rubble and I'll have all the old hardware replaced.
I'll follow up with some pics in a bit. :biggrin:
Okay - here's some pics.
West Tooth (left) and Middle Tooth the way the FAists saw them in 1962
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/786/39608422480_4912193c9e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23m4w4S)
Brad took several shots of me climbing the wildly exposed chimney between West Tooth and Middle Tooth.
The one he took before I clipped the bolt is cool but the big jagged block in front of the notch (which you don't climb) makes it look like I am really close to the bottom of the notch (you can't see the bottom of the notch because of the jagged block). I managed to get a decent tricam placement in before going up and around the left side of the jagged block. The climbing to the notch isn't hard but it is exposed, virtually unprotected and there is a pile of big loose rocks sitting on the left that must be carefully avoided as you move around and up past the jagged block. Check out this action shot Brad got just after I had clipped the newly replaced bolt (I replaced all the West Tooth hardware the previous day).
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/802/39608421930_65f14a0913_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23m4vUo)
Higher up where you have to commit to one Tooth or the other.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/873/39608422300_f833bcf43f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23m4w1L)
The carriage bolt at the summit of Middle Tooth. The hanger is the thinnest metal I have ever seen on any homemade hanger. A Leeper hanger is 1/16 and this was about half as thick. Unbelievably flimsy.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/869/40702869864_ae6db23858_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/251LR9m)
The wire looked like a scrap of fine gauge solid electrical wire and there was a blade connector on the end (hard to see).
Notice that the wire and the hanger thickness are about the same (the wire may actually be thicker).
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/875/40702869624_72632c16ff_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/251LR5d)
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Thanks for a very nice compliment. Keep in mind my incentive for finding safe solutions - I've got to keep your lily-white butt alive and kicking so that I've got someone around who's crazy enough to do this sh#t with me.
Well deserved.
and thanks for the laugh :crazy:
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I am indeed working on new route descriptions in between real work. I'll also post up some photos as I can get to them at home.
I did some digging through the Rubble.
Smith brothers did all the original FA's. Bicuspid free, all others with prusik but they did not do the 4th Class Tooth.
According to both Roper and Richards, Bicuspid and Incisor were done 12-30-62 but The Teeth were done in 63 (year only given)
Furman brothers did the FFA's of West, Middle and Incisor 5 years later and clambered up the 4th class Tooth.
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that was a sketchy downclimb
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Keep in mind my incentive for finding safe solutions - I've got to keep your lily-white butt alive and kicking so that I've got someone around who's crazy enough to do this sh#t with me.
Too true.
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that was a sketchy downclimb
I can imagine but would rather not.
One false move and you would likely be dead after falling another 50+ feet depending on which side of the slot you tumbled out of after the initial fall.
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Baling for bailing.
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Hay!
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Baling for bailing.
Nice but nope.
The wire was for a film canister that Brad said he removed 20+ years ago.
The looped end held the canister.
Unfortunately the notes inside disintegrated.
Here is what was on the other summit (West Tooth). There were two stub pencils inside but no notes.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/895/40717354244_ffc5be04c2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25345R3)
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Brad said he has photos of the disintegrated notes. Maybe he can post those.
In the interim I went back to last year on this thread and grabbed the images he posted of his field notes.
Fun to read again - thanks again for digging those up dude.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2896/33592173436_97e8839491_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3783/33249409630_7443a92805_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3845/33249410940_2ac4bd57a3_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2866/33249411760_ffeeda19c5_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2929/33249412370_e9ae4cd5c1_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2822/33249413110_483a6f1811_b.jpg)
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That goldline (if it is even that) tat for rappelling looks bomber!
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No photos; my memory was wrong. I transcribed the summit entries as the paper disintegrated, and what you posted are my entire notes. (Thanks for doing that, I was just trying to find them myself.)
EDIT:
I would have had a film camera then and wouldn't have wasted the film for shots of old summit entries.
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that was a sketchy downclimb
Yes. We were younger then though....
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So my memory and my notes were that there was no hanger on that carriage bolt on top of Middle Tooth!? I made my notes within days of being up there and I'd forgotten the hanger already? Maybe I'd just disregarded it since it was so flimsy?
Probably best that I carry paper into the field now and make notes right then.
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Agent Orange at work replacing the old West Tooth hardware.
I was able to rework and use the original holes for the old single anchor bolt and the lead bolt. :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/867/27564375218_3a1e1650bf_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HZLCqA)
The replacement anchor :ihih:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/787/41436830111_0ed48346df_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/268CzXn)
Looking through the arch on West Tooth at Knuckle Ridge, Goat Rock, Scout and the High Peaks :idea:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/894/27564375728_d00169f78e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HZLCzo)
New Game. Toss rocks at the summit register rocks on Bicuspid to restore them to their previous look. :crazy:
Before
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/871/41436829921_97dc0325a4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/268CzU6)
After
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/811/27564375288_210667f49c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HZLCrN)
Or you could climb up there and change them again. This is the most unlikely and wildest 5.4 I know of at Pinnacles :biggrin:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/891/40542641875_d6583a1ed0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24LBCWP)
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So my memory and my notes were that there was no hanger on that carriage bolt on top of Middle Tooth!? I made my notes within days of being up there and I'd forgotten the hanger already? Maybe I'd just disregarded it since it was so flimsy?
Per my conversation with J.C., I suspect that when I was up there the one carriage bolt had some sort of tat on it. I don't know how else I could have missed that flimsy little hanger. With some old webbing in the way, I would have noticed the bolt, but the hanger would have been covered up/hidden (and since I free soloed up there, I wouldn't have needed to dig around to thread the rope).
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I was able to rework and use the original holes for the old single anchor bolt and the lead bolt. :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
Unbelievable how good you've become at such re-use. Excellent!!
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^^^
Aren't your before/after shots of the rocks stacked on top of Bicuspid reversed?
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Per my conversation with J.C., I suspect that when I was up there the one carriage bolt had some sort of tat on it. I don't know how else I could have missed that flimsy little hanger. With some old webbing in the way, I would have noticed the bolt, but the hanger would have been covered up/hidden (and since I free soloed up there, I wouldn't have needed to dig around to thread the rope).
Maybe you were mesmerized by The Liver of Pinnacles :lol:
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^^^
Aren't your before/after shots of the rocks stacked on top of Bicuspid reversed?
Not if you're playing the new game correctly :biggrin:
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Not if you're playing the new game correctly :biggrin:
Alright, I get it: before means "now," and "after" means after someone has "won" the game.
I'm leaving now to get in on the action early....
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Because saying it once just was not enough.
This is the most unlikely and wildest 5.4 I know of at Pinnacles :biggrin:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/891/40542641875_d6583a1ed0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24LBCWP)
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(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/891/40542641875_d6583a1ed0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24LBCWP)
I think that the most fun I had up there was belaying John's lead of Bicuspid. He quickly climbed the loose, unprotected, up and left part and then stood up on the pillar. Watching his body language (and a little bit of real language), during a 30 second span he went from:
- "No way, no way, no way this is 5.4," to
- "Hey, there's a huge right handhold," to
- "Oh, a great left handhold," and
- "There's a right foot smear," to
- First move, second move, one more move, and up.
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^^^^^^
Nice play by play.
It was definitely the highlight of my day and not something I will forget.
I definitely will not forget that big hand hold cracking and almost coming off on the lower part - talk about a pre-pucker.
Once I found the hand holds and saw the left foot hold I knew I was gone - or I was a goner.
I appreciate looking at the picture much more now :thumbup: :biggrin:
Think beano can photoshop me in there? :idea:
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Glad you two enjoyed wild 5.4 play without me. :)
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Glad you two enjoyed wild 5.4 play without me. :)
Sorry bro-cephus. We can go back and climb them all again :yesnod: :biggrin: :yikes:
and speaking of foreplay - here is a butt cheek technique being employed to rest on said route :lol:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/790/27567208348_d80f069e35_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/J129BE)
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^^^^^^
Nice play by play.
It was definitely the highlight of my day and not something I will forget.
Once I found the hand holds and saw the left foot hold I knew I was gone - or I was a goner.
I appreciate looking at the picture much more now :thumbup: :biggrin:
Think beano can photoshop me in there? :idea:
I inspected that pillar - touched its opening moves - and it gave me the Slim Pickens willies. You're a better man than I am, J.C.
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I inspected that pillar - touched its opening moves - and it gave me the Slim Pickens willies. You're a better man than I am, J.C.
After about 3 awkward moves I gently grabbed a left hand hold that I could hear cracking - that gave me the willies. Once past that it is easy to the top of the pillar where you stand on tippy toes and it gets very interesting :thumbup: :biggrin: :devildevil:
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Climbed and replaced the bolts on Incisor today. Rubble Wall is complete! :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin: :yikes:
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Thanks for the work.
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Two best shots of the day.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/864/26592279837_ab1ea34fe2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GvSokp)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/810/26592280077_553c87bd75_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GvSopx)
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We could hear but not see climberdude down at Crud and Mud yesterday. We also saw his vehicle at parking and again in the parking lot for the 19th Hole on the road home. Hope you guys had a fun birthday celebration :blahblah: :guitar: :arf:
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I just wanted to share some info about Rubble Wall.
None of the OLD routes are for the faint of heart or the inexperienced Pinns climber.
Here is the stance for the only lead bolt on Incisor. Climbing past the bolt gets you into some serious runout.
This is another one of those no fall routes at Pinns. It will be getting an R in the new guidebook.
Falling from above the bolt as you climb the arete would likely result in one of three possibilities - A) land back on the bolt stance B) fall off the left side where there are lots of things to hit C) fall off the right side in a screamer and slam back in somewhere lower.
The good news is I found the rock to be quite nice in this upper section. It reminds me of the rock on the second pitch of Long In The Tooth although not quite as good. Rather than having cobbles, it is all matrix and the holds are pretty unique for Pinnacles. I haven't done a lot of climbs where weathering and erosion have sculpted the matrix into nice holds.
The route is exciting for the follower too - when they realize what can happen after they unclip the bolt to climb past it :yikes:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/895/40764496534_4248458ff1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/257dGB9)
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Thanks JC. My group had a great time climbing at Crud and Mud and also at the 19th Hole. Some even said they like this rock better than granite (she must have been on the more solid routes at Crud and Mud). I looked up towards Rubble Wall several times, but did not see any indications of people (you and KC) being there.
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and speaking of foreplay - here is a butt cheek technique being employed to rest on said route :lol:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/790/27567208348_d80f069e35_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/J129BE)
THE TICKLER!!
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^needs to rain a couple of times before more ascents.
This photo should have been in the caption this thread.
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Had fun with clink, Yosomighty and the 4H crew today at Crud and Mud - even though clink left my cinnamon roll on the kitchen counter at his house. :incazzato: :nono: :frown:
It was overcast, cool and windy. The kids tried their best to have fun for a while but the cold (temps hovered around 55) and windy conditions put a bit of a damper on things. We made the best of it. :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Here's hoping the nice couple we met yesterday on the west side had fun today.
How was it Alex? Margaret?
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Great group again this year. I enjoyed listening to the commentary on the latest Avengers movie. They sure grew up a lot in one "short" year. :)
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Old Route 5.9
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/955/41151161874_e5e0c6f644_c.jpg)
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Old Route 5.9
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/955/41151161874_e5e0c6f644_c.jpg)
Old Dude, 59.
(Dude looks in better shape than route.)
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^^^ :lol:
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The Missing Screw Link.
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Foreplay rest....Jake went in sideways!!!
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Lobster Claw is done and rebolted.
I'll post more later.
Doodlin' Dody on the menu para mañana.
Happy Derby Day! :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Nothing can stop the Claw!
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Liar!
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Doodlin' Dody on the menu para mañana.
Turned out to be a no-go today but I will get to it soon. :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Shifting this over since climberdude has been seriously questing for mud as of late :biggrin: :thumbup:
I did "Palisades Pinnacle - Northeast Face", "Palisades Pinnacle - East Face", "Monument", "Brittle Palace", "Tombstone - Regular Route", "Tombstone - Doc Holliday Direct" (scary), "Crumbing Castle - Regular Route" (scary), "Crumbling Castle - Original Route" (on top rope), and two variations of "Cave Pinnacle". I did not trust doing the Original Route of Crumbling Castle on lead because I could not find a good rope solo anchor at the base and the protection in the chimney is probably horrible, i.e., would not hold a fall. I looked at "Low Peaks", but will have to do that another day.
Nice dude.
I agree that any pro on that Original Route would not hold a fall and the fall would be really ugly. The rock didn't look good either. Both the Roper and Richards guide mention a piton being used in that section for aid. The chimney looks too wide to do much but stem and that looks really scary with no pro and the fall potential down the stepped chimney bottom - it just keeps going and going... :yikes:
Surprised you did Doc Holiday - that is essentially a solo. The rock looks pretty good from the bottom but none of the upper stuff past the bolt looks slingable. I seem to remember some holes in the face when I rapped from the 5.2 - maybe a tricam or two? I'll have to revisit that one. I also think that 5.2 should get an R.
Speaking of R - what did you think of Palisade? I thought the 5.5 felt closer to 5.6 and with the ground dropping away as you climb and the bulge at the top, it seemed like that should get an R too.
I did Cave Pinnacle one day with Brad. Goes up a slot kinda chimney thingy and it's pretty damn scary to touch the actual summit. I didn't stand on the actual summit because I didn't want to downclimb the huck move that would get you there.
Lots of PO back there.
I have looked at The Low Peaks a couple times. Kat's remark was - I don't want to belay you on that and I don't want to be here when you do it. Hmmmmm...
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Kat and I got shut down by some massive PO on the approach yesterday and the day turned into an exploratory one.
Not the first time that has happened and I'm sure it won't be the last.
On Saturday we climbed Lobster Claw and I replaced the old anchor and lead bolt.
Here is an overview of the route.
Slab moves to gear in a horizontal.
Pull a tricky bulge to a shoulder and run it out up easy slab to a second horizontal and the only protection bolt.
A fall from the easy slab will likely result in cratering.
Clip the bolt and figure out how to get to the summit.
Finding the LOLR at the lower and upper cruxes is tricky. I liked that.
Here's Kat tying in after I finished working on the route. I left the bolt clipped and one cam in the lower horizontal for directionals. I'm not big on giving away the secrets of route-solving (unless someone requests it) - suffice it to say that the climbing does not follow the way the rope is situated.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/956/40149003600_be0e0fff2a_c.jpg)
Here is part of the gear I placed in the first horizontal. I had one more bigger piece to the right.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/967/28084946608_8d98a4de73_c.jpg)
I placed a tricam in the second horizontal to back up the old bolt. That won't be necessary anymore. I didn't have anything big enough to stick in this nice hole along the runout (insert joke here). :lol: I'm not sure what might fit here (maybe a big tricam?) - being conservative, I'd say take gear to 2 inches for the route. I'm also not sure I'd want to block that hole since it made a pretty sweet hand and foot hold :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/904/41911503972_d6fb79a323_c.jpg)
Here is the replacement anchor.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/868/41056657235_2dda7f075f_c.jpg)
Working on the anchor
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/863/40149003490_5aff500a37_c.jpg)
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Nice work and nice report.
That gear looks pretty decent. With that gear and a new bolt, does it deserve an "R" rating?
...not the first time that has happened and I'm sure it won't be the last.
I don't want to use the wrong words here, so let me try these:
I know of a place you could climb where poison oak would never, ever be a factor....
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Nice work and nice report.
That gear looks pretty decent. With that gear and a new bolt, does it deserve an "R" rating?
Thanks.
It definitely doesn't deserve an R for the first crux with all the gear possibilities.
I thought that move felt about 5.6 if you figure out the LOLR (Kat agreed).
The really runout section felt easy to me and if you use all the biggest holds it might only be 5.4?
Again - you have to find the LOLR which may not be obvious to some, so it's kind of a tough call.
If some pro could go in that big hole and if it would hold a fall - that would negate the crater factor.
It would be nice if some other people led it and gave us feedback.
Kat had no interest in leading it. Maybe with something good in that big pocket she would.
She also had trouble near the top - may have been a reach issue or the nature of the moves and rock quality.
I'd be curious to see how others approach and execute the cruxes. You could definitely make it harder if you're not as sneaky as I am. :yesnod: :ihih:
I don't want to use the wrong words here, so let me try these:
I know of a place you could climb where poison oak would never, ever be a factor....
Point taken but it's not 90 minutes away and let's face it...I'm just a pinhead :lol:
P.S. - you said PO and Factor in the same sentence :out: :crazy: :arf:
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"Surprised you did Doc Holiday - that is essentially a solo. The rock looks pretty good from the bottom but none of the upper stuff past the bolt looks slingable. I seem to remember some holes in the face when I rapped from the 5.2 - maybe a tricam or two? I'll have to revisit that one. I also think that 5.2 should get an R."
Doc Holliday does have places and knobs for cams and slings, but do not expect anything but the bolt to hold a fall - just don't fall and you should be ok. Tombstone Regular has large knobs that can be slung or you can use an old-style 4.5 (modern BD 5) cam.
"Speaking of R - what did you think of Palisade? I thought the 5.5 felt closer to 5.6 and with the ground dropping away as you climb and the bulge at the top, it seemed like that should get an R too."
I thought that Palisade Pinnacle East Face was slightly harder than 5.5, but did not deserve a R. I got in a good cam between cobbles at the base of the headwall just before the bulge. In keeping with the original anchor location being further away from the notch, I did not place the anchor close to the lip, which would have allowed someone to clip it to closely protect the boulder move. Thus, the move is still an unprotected boulder move through the notch.
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In keeping with the original anchor location being further away from the notch, I did not place the anchor close to the lip, which would have allowed someone to clip it to closely protect the boulder move. Thus, the move is still an unprotected boulder move through the notch.
Nicely done!!
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Point taken but it's not 90 minutes away and...
Now you're just being mean to those of us who are geographically disadvantaged >:(
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Doc Holliday does have places and knobs for cams and slings, but do not expect anything but the bolt to hold a fall - just don't fall and you should be ok. Tombstone Regular has large knobs that can be slung or you can use an old-style 4.5 (modern BD 5) cam.
I thought that Palisade Pinnacle East Face was slightly harder than 5.5, but did not deserve a R. I got in a good cam between cobbles at the base of the headwall just before the bulge. In keeping with the original anchor location being further away from the notch, I did not place the anchor close to the lip, which would have allowed someone to clip it to closely protect the boulder move. Thus, the move is still an unprotected boulder move through the notch.
Always good to get another opinion. I could tell Doc Holiday was a no fall route. I did the 5.2 some years ago and thought it was R based on the way the ground drops away drastically (obscured by brush) as you traverse around to the right. I do recall breathing a sigh of relief after clipping the bolt and slinging a big knob past the bolt on the way to the summit.
I didn't take a rack since there was no mention of gear.
My notes say I slung a knob under the headwall on Palisade but thought climbing to there with no pro warranted an R. I had been climbing about 18 months when I did that one.
Nice work on keeping the anchor away from the route. :thumbup:
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That summit pic is cool, so are the gear placements.
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Clink picked up JC early this morning and they were going to meet Brad - I'm pretty sure they wanted to see what sort of trouble they could get in to while celebrating Clink's B-day!
Happy Birthday Clink - hope you guys had a fun day!
:thumbup: :guitar: :wink:
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Happy Bday!!!
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Happy birthday Clink. My birthday was last Friday and I spent it at Pinnacles. I cannot think of a better place to spend a birthday at.
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happy birthday!
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Happy birthday Clink!!!
:ciappa: :ciappa: :ciappa:
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Thanks everyone!
I was wondering what I was getting into today. Great day new routing with JC and Brad, and it was phenomenal quality, north facing rock! When I left JC was drilling at about 100 feet up and with what looked from where we were, another 20-30 feet to go. I left at 4:30 and looking back at the vantage point of the reservoir, JC looked to have another 100 feet to go. They will probably finish tomorrow with KC (she is joining them tonight at the campground.) Can't wait to get the report.
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JC,
There are two ways to get to the top of Cave Pinnacle, one that is fourth class and one that I would characterize as very easy fifth class. It sounds like you and Brad did the very easy fifth class way that is on the right. I carefully read the route description in Roper's 1966 guidebook as well as Brad's 2007 guidebook, both of which seem to describe the route on the left that leads all the way to the top as fourth class climbing. There is a variation route on the right that goes up from a ledge below the cave up a ramp with a dihedral/crack on the left. The ramp ends below the summit and then you do a scary and very exposed huck move on mossy rock to the top. I also did this variation route, but felt it was harder than fourth class. Roper's description of the Cave Pinnacle route describes the bottom as being very loose. I felt that the left route had a very loose bottom section but the right route did not have any loose sections on it.
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Next May Climberdude.
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Isn’t it getting warm there??
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Thanks everyone!
I was wondering what I was getting into today. Great day new routing with JC and Brad, and it was phenomenal quality, north facing rock! When I left JC was drilling at about 100 feet up and with what looked from where we were, another 20-30 feet to go. I left at 4:30 and looking back at the vantage point of the reservoir, JC looked to have another 100 feet to go. They will probably finish tomorrow with KC (she is joining them tonight at the campground.) Can't wait to get the report.
What kind of a birthday wretch posts photos of new routes at Pinnacles on Supertopo... but not on Mudn'Crud?
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^^^
We finished two routes. They share a start and then continue 103 and 95 feet to separate anchors. Both are 5.7* (and I'll get full descriptions up soon)**.
Two great days.
And Clink, you forgot your comb at the base.
** We all know though that the routes won't really be finished until Climberdude repeats them ;D ;)
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What kind of a birthday wretch posts photos of new routes at Pinnacles on Supertopo... but not on Mudn'Crud?
Yes, i am guilty. I posses the simple and easy technology to post photos from my phone directly to Munge's "The Power of Choss Compels You" thread. Anyone is welcome to repost them here.
JC will hog tie me at some point and my technological skills will be forcibly upgraded.
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And Clink, you forgot your comb at the base.
That comb is for Cookilocks. For the above visor thatch.
Where are the bad bolts pics? Hairy Potheads and the Half Placed Bolt.
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JC will hog tie me at some point and my technological skills will be forcibly upgraded.
Justified. And I'll help him.
It's not about technological skills (even I can post photos here). You're just being lazy.
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That comb is for Cookilocks. For the above visor thatch.
Where are the bad bolts pics? Hairy Potheads and the Half Placed Bolt.
I didn't actually have a camera with. You'll have to wait until he returns from his additional bolt replacement work later today.
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That comb is for Cookilocks. For the above visor thatch.
Where are the bad bolts pics? Hairy Potheads and the Half Placed Bolt.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/974/42038594332_d6e158693c_c.jpg)
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Well it can be a good bolt IF it one of them long ones.
If a short, it would slow you down.
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Well it can be a good bolt IF it one of them long ones.
If a short, it would slow you down.
I have two lengths in my rebolt pile of old 3/8 inch split shafts.
The 2 1 /2 inch bolt has a 1 1/2 inch split portion.
The 3 1/2 inch bolt has a 1 3/4 inch split portion.
The bolt pictured is the longer version, so there is probably slightly less than an inch and a half in the rock.
Both bolts we found on this old abandoned route were underdrilled between one half and 1 inch.
The thing I find interesting is the corrosion pattern. Why does the top part of the threaded end look almost new?
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JC drills the last bolt on Endeavor to Persevere
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/944/28212487918_3f61699666_c.jpg)
JC's 1st attempt at a stance for drilling the crux bolt on Whistlin' Dixie
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/955/28212488238_9dcf0bd26c_c.jpg)
Brad stems into the crux on Whistlin' Dixie
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/951/27215104187_b034cfb399_c.jpg)
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Both John and Kathy were climbing in pants and/or shorts that had visible patches. Wicked cool.
I so admired their patches that I'm going to try something new: wearing some clothes with patches. Vicki's doing some sewing right now - including sewing on some patches for me. Oh, and patches for my climbing pack's lid too.
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JC,
There are two ways to get to the top of Cave Pinnacle, one that is fourth class and one that I would characterize as very easy fifth class. It sounds like you and Brad did the very easy fifth class way that is on the right. I carefully read the route description in Roper's 1966 guidebook as well as Brad's 2007 guidebook, both of which seem to describe the route on the left that leads all the way to the top as fourth class climbing. There is a variation route on the right that goes up from a ledge below the cave up a ramp with a dihedral/crack on the left. The ramp ends below the summit and then you do a scary and very exposed huck move on mossy rock to the top. I also did this variation route, but felt it was harder than fourth class. Roper's description of the Cave Pinnacle route describes the bottom as being very loose. I felt that the left route had a very loose bottom section but the right route did not have any loose sections on it.
Thanks dude. The class 4 designation can be tricky. I discovered that yesterday at Doodlin' Dody. I either went up a new way or simply found an alternate way OR I went the intended way. Regardless, I stood on top of that thing. There may be two other ways to get there but the first one I looked at seemed about 5.9 and the other possibility I did not check out because I decided to try it another way. Launching into that, I found myself committed and it actually felt class 4 (after an exposed mantle move I did not want to try to reverse). For the second section, I would have liked to have one big cam (probably a #4) but of course I didn't have anything that big. The 5.9-looking boulder move would probably take a #2 camalot. All I had was some medium-sized stuff to do the 5.7 route. Ironically, I only ended up using a yellow alien on that route. The second larger placement on the 5.7 would have required climbing into some hideous looking rock to access the higher portion of the crack.
We had a friend stop in before climbing the class 4. He or she is sitting right on top of the crack that looked like one way to boulder up but it's completely undercut with a serious lack of footholds. A left hand jam and a knob on the right might allow a power move akin to Old Route. Left of the crack is a boulder that I did not step up on to explore the face above. That may be another way up. I think I got too focused on the crack. Morale of the story?
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/959/42087860221_f79eaac9dc_c.jpg)
On the summit of Doodlin' Dody South Pinnacle Class Four. I mantled onto the shelf and then climbed the wide crack.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/973/27218581227_9570486bcb_c.jpg)
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We had a friend stop in before climbing the class 4.
Caleb, blushing in a new overcoat?
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KC got right on the sharp end on Friday. Here she is breaking bad on the crux of Endeavor to Persevere 5.7d* :lol:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/960/41370331264_1f1162c4b4_z.jpg)
John and Brad later in the day at the anchor after finishing Whistlin' Dixie 5.7a*
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/905/41370331154_3fce4bb990_c.jpg)
Brad took off for home after we finished Whistlin' Dixie. Meanwhile, Kat and I went over to Old Route so I could get some proper chains on the replacement anchor. The old bolt was just too damn cool not to leave and incorporate in with the new bolt.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/969/28216776688_0247d70418_c.jpg)
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The photo of Kathy is a little fuzzy, but great nonetheless. She did an excellent lead on that route (patches and all).
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The photo of Kathy is a little fuzzy, but great nonetheless. She did an excellent lead on that route (patches and all).
Yes and you are photobombing :yesnod: :lol:
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It would be cool to hang on a rope on either of those routes and take pictures of folks leading through the cruxes :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
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Our latest adventure. Doodlin' Dody.
The normal approach is completely choked out with Poison Oak.
Here is a picture taken from below Casino Rock, just past the switchback near the Don Genaro waterfall overlook.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/944/40284825510_0802658ffa_c.jpg)
Here is a photo topo made from zooming in on the previous picture. You can see the drill dust from the bolt replacements.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/980/40284825660_69a719791e_z.jpg)
Disclaimer and warning - it looks like the pinnacle is not that tall.
This is a very tall pinnacle. A major portion of the downhill side is obscured by the nature of this downhill view and the brush. When you start down the notch on a skinny fin to gain easier access to the slab, the exposure is immediate.
Above the first bulge, a crumbly-looking stance gets you to a fixed stopper in a small slot.
Someone evidently fixed this piece and bailed, leaving an oval carabiner on it - likely years ago when they couldn't find the bolts or possibly freaked out from the rock quality. :yikes:
Unfortunately I did not have a nut tool, so I gave the stopper a good yank and it was fixed solid. It was a small nut turned sideways - maybe 5 or 6? on the BD scale (I should have taken a picture) and the wire was thinner than any nut I own. There wasn't enough room in the slot to place anything else, so I said Vaya con Dios (no one actually says that) and clipped the piece with a long runner. I had also clipped my yellow alien with a long runner. Moving out to the next stance completed the zag in my zig-zag and I was now set up for the hopeless rope drag. I don't think 4 foot runners would have made a difference. Maybe 6 or 8 foot runners. I have to wonder if the first ascent party didn't belay from the first bolt - that would absolutely work.
Kat had been asking me the whole time if I saw any bolts.
Here is the most current route description: Move up and left past 2 bolts and over 2 bulges. It is possible to use small gear to supplement the bolts. The summit anchor is very old.
Well...that was 2 bulges so far and no bolts. When I got to the next stance, I saw the 2 old bolts - 4 feet apart on the final, filthy, lichen-covered, loose slab. Sounds exciting huh? :yesnod: :out: :crazy:
That second bolt was clearly placed by hanging on the first one.
I clipped the first old bolt and stepped up. You would think I would know better and would have pulled more slack into the system. The rope drag was so bad I almost didn't make it to the 2nd bolt (4 feet away).
I struggled past the second bolt screaming for slack the whole time (what a maroon!) - Kat kept yelling back that I had slack. One more dicey pull to get enough slack to move and I made it to a rest stance. From there I pulled out more slack to make the final run to the top. When I got to the top, I told Kat " that was harder than a sustained 10a!" In retrospect I should have just pulled out 20 feet of slack before trying to climb past the bolts.
Once at the summit, I rested a bit before starting the chore of replacing the anchor.
When the anchor was done, I belayed Kat up and then rapped down and replaced both lead bolts in their original holes.
The second lead bolt came out with my fingers after applying the tuning fork :yikes:
Here's the old anchor. (I left it for the sake of history)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/970/27223472437_9dc7f74523_z.jpg)
The new anchor.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/980/41373982534_596dae00d6_z.jpg)
The replaced lead bolts - close enough to be photographed together while hanging from the rope
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/948/41373982664_0a7b4b6565_z.jpg)
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Thanks for leaving the somewhat unique anchor and doing the restoration work.
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Thanks for leaving the somewhat unique anchor and doing the restoration work.
You know it dude. The anchor wasn't in a good location to reuse the hole.
There also seems to be a contingent that likes to see some of the old stuff left for posterity.
If anyone leads the route they will be very glad to see the replacement modern hardware.
The FA party cut the pointy ends off the nails on the star dryvins. Not sure why.
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Cool pic of the Condor.
Nice looking route.
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Here are the old lead bolts from Doodlin' Dody.
The one with the shorter nail was the top bolt that slid out with fingers after driving the tuning fork under it. :yikes:
Notice the pointy ends of the nails are cut off both of them. Different hangers too.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/976/28260245208_656f9b0d2c_z.jpg)
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^^^
Keep up your good work and we won't have any reason to be afraid at Pinnacles anymore (well, sorta).
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^^^
Keep up your good work and we won't have any reason to be afraid at Pinnacles anymore (well, sorta).
Fear the Walking Mud :thumbup: :biggrin:
I think the best we can hope for on a lot of the old routes is to get a feeling of security similar to what the first ascentionists may have experienced when they finally placed a bolt.
Of course that usually only happens after you've nearly soiled yourself :yesnod: :nonod: :out: :crazy: :redface:
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...that usually only happens after you've nearly soiled yourself
Reminds me of the time Forrest and I retreated from twelve pitches up the Pacific Ocean Wall in a storm...
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Cutting the points off of the nails makes sense....that little point might split the whole rock...
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Here are the old lead bolts from Doodlin' Dody.
The one with the shorter nail was the top bolt that slid out with fingers after driving the tuning fork under it. :yikes:
Notice the pointy ends of the nails are cut off both of them. Different hangers too.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/976/28260245208_656f9b0d2c_z.jpg)
Shazbat!
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I think the best we can hope for on a lot of the old routes is to get a feeling of security similar to what the first ascentionists may have experienced when they finally placed a bolt.
Just think they had no sticky rubber climbing shoes, cams, passive pro, modern harnesses, super stretchy ropes, and most likely used a hip belay.
Notice the pointy ends of the nails are cut off both of them. Different hangers too.
Makin' shorties.
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I spent the day yesterday torquing bolts on 3 new routes (22 bolts total) and putting the final touches on the new routes we did last week. I removed the old split shafts and patched the holes from the abandoned route (dubbed Hairy Pothead and the Half Drilled Bolts) by clink. If we lived in olden times he would be clink the Clever.
Here is the upper bolt they used to bail from.
You can just barely see the split showing from this angle (there is a little debris in the spllt).
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/970/40365614750_2e926a3965_z.jpg)
Here is another view from the opposite side and you can see how bad the surface and cratering was.
I noticed that the end of the stud was a bit bunged up but the nut came off without a problem and I was able to remove the hanger and the tat and get the puller tool situated.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/972/40365614930_fc2816b81d_z.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/961/42172666611_ea9d6b676c_z.jpg)
After a couple turns there was a fairly loud pop and the bolt slid out/fell out with no more wrenching.
Here is how much of the bolt was actually in the rock.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/978/42172666821_c16c55b8f1_z.jpg)
I pulled the lower bolt in the same fashion and there was no pop. Just a few turns and the bolt fell out.
Just for fun I checked the hole depths before patching them and neither of the bolts was under-driven.
Why did they drill such shallow holes?
Why did they abandon the route?
Some things aren't meant to be known.
One thing is for sure. There are now two really fun, long, well protected routes on good rock below Old Route. Old Route is also well worth doing - the moves are fun and the rock is really good.
I added chains to the anchor for Endeavor to Persevere.
When I was done with Crocodile Crag I went over to The Love Handles and torqued all the bolts on Muffin Top.
If you haven't done Muffin Top - take a walk over next time you're at the Sisters and give the holds a squeeze :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup: :ihih:
Here is the tallest Crocodile Snout. I noticed there are some excellent views of the routes on The Hatchet and Ridge Rock from the anchors for the new climbs. It would be a good spot to get photos of someone climbing either of those routes.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/950/40365614520_e15bd8d4b7_z.jpg)
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Bolt looked good, except the threads.
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Bolt looked good, except the threads.
I hung on it - but no bouncy bouncy (for beanolar) :lol:
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I like the spacing on those bolts!!!!
John u must have 9 lives for all the bounce tests on crud that you've survived...
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Hey, did you do The Overlook?!
Yes and it was fun. On the way back we climbed down and into/through the tree where the 4th class section is. The ledge starts right there. We also did Chamber of Secrets and N Goal Post Shortcut (the short version). :ihih:
Kat follows the ramp on The Overlook. Hidden Pinnacle is in the center in the background. It may become Lost Pinnacle one day when the tree falls.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/905/41335820815_5489ec0466_z.jpg)
From the Overlook we could see the dude. The dude abides.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/952/27366030927_b3f31d70e2_z.jpg)
And later in the day I did my favorite type of climbing...(part 1 The Chamber of Secrets)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/961/41335820365_c78e1cd465_z.jpg)
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curious, why remove the abandoned bolts/patch?
(maybe it was posted elsewhere and I didn't see it?)
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curious, why remove the abandoned bolts/patch?
(maybe it was posted elsewhere and I didn't see it?)
My view is that it's no different than cleaning up litter; junk that is now definitely going to remain unused (J.C. did the removal, but both of us agreed while we are doing the new routes that it was the correct thing to do).
Does that make sense?
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curious, why remove the abandoned bolts/patch?
Eminent Domain. No, the two half drilled bolts (with possibly slung knobs) and the second bolt had bail tat slung on it, were abandoned and crisscrossed what continued into two separate routes. The first route went to the right of the first bolt and split left of the second bolt up a face. The seond route shares the first 30(?) feet then continues past the old second bolt placement over a bulge to the top.
We did find a large comb buried in the dirt at the base. The first group there may have been more interested in being photogenic than drilling bolts to depth and finishing routes.
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My view is that it's no different than cleaning up litter; junk that is now definitely going to remain unused (J.C. did the removal, but both of us agreed while we are doing the new routes that it was the correct thing to do).
Does that make sense?
Was looking for the particular reason on this route, not the general reason. Picking up someone or some entity's things after a period of time is not objectionable, per se, but as a pattern I would like to know why on each route. For example I wouldn't want someone removing my Ridge Rock lead bolts just because it doesn't look like it has been sent. A proper reason might be because my bolts go up and into a concave face with pink rotten rock above that is overlaid with a layer of moss with other signs of ascent. Pulling old bolts and patching them over (even though they look highly suspect) can hide a history of someone's interest in a high difficulty ascent, perhaps ground up, perhaps by pure stance.
JC's post doesn't give the details. Probably because he's very familiar with it already and has seen the reasons. Those of us behind a monitor haven't. :)
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Eminent Domain. No, the two half drilled bolts (with possibly slung knobs) and the second bolt had bail tat slung on it, were abandoned and crisscrossed what continued into two separate routes. The first route went to the right of the first bolt and split left of the second bolt up a face. The seond route shares the first 30(?) feet then continues past the old second bolt placement over a bulge to the top.
We did find a large comb buried in the dirt at the base. The first group there may have been more interested in being photogenic than drilling bolts to depth and finishing routes.
Thx Clink! Figured it was proto-selfie soloist behavior! ;)
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My post was referring to Endeavor to Persevere.
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Those of us behind a monitor haven't. :)
You weren't behind a monitor yesterday!
While checking my time for the two mile yesterday I noticed that the next male 50 to 59 finisher was over 15 minutes behind me!? In two miles. You had a pretty good time though. Fun event.
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Someday soon I'll be taking a pass.
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You weren't behind a monitor yesterday!
While checking my time for the two mile yesterday I noticed that the next male 50 to 59 finisher was over 15 minutes behind me!? In two miles. You had a pretty good time though. Fun event.
I had a horrible "time" but had a good time just showing up and.getting it done.
Last year I got first in my age group for that distance. This year work and allergies are taking a toll.
Off to work again tmrw. No Mud session. :(
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Cuxluv came out yesterday and led Whistlin' Dixie :smilewinkgrin:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/874/41693784744_eed06efc88_z.jpg)
beano followed...
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/878/28543577928_d71a867446_z.jpg)
...while Kat and I hung out with this munchkin - baby beano aka Kim-bear
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1754/28543577538_4a732e07ce_z.jpg)
Kat charged up Whistlin' Dixie on a mission. :ihih: :arf:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/885/28543577498_46b1d19084_z.jpg)
Nice job ladies!!! :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
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Nice routes John. Now I see where all these bruises came from!!
Thanks for the haul, Kathy aka my teenage mom. And Lisa for the lead.
Kimbo appreciated the free ride (me too! <3 TR).
Poundin back a cold one
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/IMG_20180527_095925_zpsusoypqaw.jpg)
Nap time
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/IMG_20180527_124019_zpsvlzrmxjr.jpg)
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Such a great day and fun route!
But I will always refer to it as "Bloody Rail" since KC and I both shed some. :)
Looking forward to next time!
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Such a great day and fun route!
But I will always refer to it as "Bloody Rail" since KC and I both shed some. :)
Looking forward to next time!
Hold it! I think I just heard Crux volunteer to help with an FA. She's even got a name for the route already picked out!!
Hey Crux, what's your November look like for some Pinns climbing?
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Thanks for the haul, Kathy aka my teenage mom.
Poundin back a cold one
You have to look close to see the munchkin has a bottle :biggrin:
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Hey guys
This count?
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That sure looks like real efforts at developing the bouldering at Pinns!
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Hold it! I think I just heard Crux volunteer to help with an FA. She's even got a name for the route already picked out!!
Hey Crux, what's your November look like for some Pinns climbing?
Second half is wide open!
The Pinnacles bug has bitten deep and hard. :)
Hopefully it won't heal during the hot and dry summer months.
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The Pinnacles bug has bitten deep and hard. :)
Hopefully it won't heal during the hot and dry summer months.
Personally, I'll be relying on J.C.'s summertime Pinnacles posts to keep that bug alive while it's dormant.
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:thumbup:
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I am anxiously awaiting the first eaten by flies post.
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I am anxiously awaiting the first eaten by flies post.
He'll tough it out.
Damn, just as I started typing Vicki yelled at me from the back deck. We watched a really beautiful bear amble across the back yard (I might be a little deaf for a few minutes from all that barking by our girls though).
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He'll tough it out.
Damn, just as I started typing Vicki yelled at me from the back deck. We watched a really beautiful bear amble across the back yard (I might be a little deaf for a few minutes from all that barking by our girls though).
Just grin and bear it.
Sorry this is late but I was at Pinns all day working and just got back.
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I think my dog would have been hiding in the back room
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Just grin and bear it.
That's an interesting philosophy, "grin and bear it." With that type of calm, reasoned outlook, you should advise and counsel people, help them calm their lives too. In short, you should be a Yogi.
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In short, you should be a Yogi.
Heeeey Boo Boo...do I see a pickynick baskit??
(ha...maybe I should put this in the route names thread...)
;D
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That's an interesting philosophy, "grin and bear it." With that type of calm, reasoned outlook, you should advise and counsel people, help them calm their lives too. In short, you should be a Yogi.
It's gettin' deep in here.
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An evil fairy must have moved the cursor on my NWS forecast map. We nearly melted over the weekend but still managed to have a good time overall. On Saturday we met Edward and Aimee on the east side and took them out for a day of mentoring. We got them both on the sharp end at the Sisters even though it was only their second time outside. :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: They both did great and we got in a fair amount of climbing, ending the day with a run up First Sister Center Route.
We spent the evening with Glenn and his group from Sports Basement. Glenn cooked some really tasty pasta for the group.
Speaking of cooking, we were up early Sunday and all headed out to Crud and Mud. While the group was getting their lines set up, Kat and I decided to go explore a couple previously eyed lines. The one we ended up climbing was one I had scrambled up a long time ago to the point where I felt threatened and backed off. I geared up and climbed back to that high point and placed a bolt. Above that, the water chute became low angle and I stretched it out to explore the upper portion. The face to the right looked interesting (although very contrived) and I stepped out to test some of the big, enticing knobs. Every one I touched was hideously loose - ready to come off and big enough to kill a belayer (the mine field). I backed off and continued up the chute. The easy chute ended at a tree and the last thing I wanted to do was create another route that forces climbers to fight through a tree. I placed one more bolt to allow passage left and up - and then into the grassy gully that leads to the Shoo Fly/Bottoms Up rappel anchor. The route provides the easiest? way to the middle summit of Crud and Mud. Placing the second bolt, I tried to be especially mindful to keep as far away as possible from the line that defines Shoo Fly Slab's last run and hopefully be invisible while climbing that route.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1743/42511190092_d7453b9d2f_z.jpg)
Mud, Sweat and Veers 5.0? - This casual romp provides another easy way to the Middle Summit of Crud and Mud and/or the Shoo Fly Slab/Bottoms Up rappel anchor. I didn't think it was as fun or as difficult as Summer of Mud. It ends at the base of the low-angle water groove described in the Shoo Fly Slab descent. From that point, the true summit and the rappel anchor are visible and easily accessible by scrambling.
Start Mud, Sweat and Veers at a point 8 feet up and across the corridor from the start of Mud Diamond. Climb up the obvious water groove to a short, steeper section and the first bolt. Above the bolt, the water groove becomes low angle. Follow the water groove until upward progress is most easily achieved by veering left and up to a second bolt. Climb straight up past the second bolt toward a large knob, where it becomes possible to veer right and into a large grassy gully. Belay using excellent body position from the base of the water groove described in the Shoo Fly Slab descent, 120 feet from the start. FA Party: John and Kathy Cook FA Date: 6-3-18
We went back and hung around with the group until Pay Dirt went into the shade. Kat led that to cap the day. NICE! :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
We packed up and bid farewell to the group - It was 102 on the hike out. We saw rescues for hikers suffering heat exhaustion being performed both days - by helicopter on Saturday. :yikes: :out:
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I changed the length on Mud, Sweat and Veers to 120 feet after Dave and I climbed it again yesterday.
We had 2 nice days out. Day 1 we finished the rebolt on Pinch or Lynch Reg Rte and climbed Pipsqueak Reg Rte and then Dave TR'ed a line a little left of Rightfoot.
Yesterday we spent the day at Crud and Mud climbing Squeaky Clean Mud, Mud, Sweat and Veers, put a bolt on a new route and finished with a run up Call of the Crud and Summer of Mud. Dave is an old buddy of mine that lives down south and makes the effort to come and visit once a year. We always have a good time and get in a little adventure. This was the 3rd year and his 3rd time climbing. Thanks for comin' up buddy! :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1727/27804515807_6fb49d3ce2_c.jpg)
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I need topos! ;)
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JC, you are a glutton for punishment - climbing in 102 oF weather! It's time to head to the G-word areas.
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Negatory dude.
Besides, I have a reputation to keep up! :lol:
Only supposed to be in the high 70's to low 80's this weekend.
I want to climb Pinch and Lynch and work on the new route - plus I still have my eye on Heffalump and Flip-A-Coin :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Kat and I climbed Pinch or Lynch Regular Route on Saturday.
It is a long route (120 feet) - about 50 feet of gear climbing followed by 3 widely spaced bolts on 70 more feet of slabby climbing.
Getting it started
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/28864381268_b3c340dd0a_c.jpg)
Higher up there is a committing traverse past the first bolt.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1738/27868907627_9d16d5820c_c.jpg)
Kat cleaning the last piece of gear. She said she enjoyed the lower part of the climb the most.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1731/27868907747_0db1dbae0b_c.jpg)
Contemplating the slabby moves past the last bolt
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/28864381428_8cd75fdf75_c.jpg)
After we finished at Pinch or Lynch we hiked up to the Outhouse. I had originally planned to go get something new started but it was later than we anticipated, so Kat led Can You Spare a Square? and we called it.
Yesterday I got two more bolts in the steep route I started with Dave on Thursday at Crud and Mud. Kat climbed up to the high point and really liked it. It is steep and fun so far and looks good above. I think it can be finished in one more outing.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1739/27868907447_859c0241fc_c.jpg)
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A closeup of the previous pic where it looks like I am stancing.
I am hanging from two opposing slung knobs on the sides with 2 lazy daisies plus a tricam in at my waist :ihih:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/41841415085_95dd749297_b.jpg)
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And one more for clink since I can't quit thinking about getting back out to finish this line.
I put an X at bolt 3 and of course the upper part has mucho foreshortening and also looks way lower angle than it actually is :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1744/28868088058_807a4cba86_b.jpg)
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Great Pix JC, but do you have any in higher res? It's kinda hard to photoshop celebrities into them at their current resolution. :'( >:( :o
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Great Pix JC, but do you have any in higher res? It's kinda hard to photoshop celebrities into them at their current resolution. :'( >:( :o
No need to photoshop, celebrities are already present ;)
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Well Brad, I am a humble person.
But if asked I'd sign a guidebook.
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We got out and finished the route at Crud and Mud yesterday. The weather was perfect for mid-June. I actually asked for my sweatshirt while belaying clink. clink stepped right up and led past my 3rd bolt, got into a staggered stance and reached high to drill bolt 4. The route continued to yield some pretty outrageous holds. Anticipating one more bolt and maybe the ability to drill it purely from stance, we pulled the rope and I led up and past clink’s bolt to the next stance. It was steep and solid and I was really close to the top. I seriously considered climbing through. Resisting the urge, I settled in and got one more bolt in to protect the exit moves. I climbed through and onto an easy slope above and discussed the anchor location with clink and Kat. They directed me to the perfect location and I placed an anchor bolt. clink followed and placed the 2nd anchor bolt while I belayed Kat’s follow. Another great day!
Here is a photo topo of the route and the route description – plus a few other added bonuses.
Foreshortening makes the upper 2 bolts appear closer than they are. Your feet will be a couple feet above each bolt on lead. The stances are pretty juicy – enjoy! :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1725/41049005950_3d8bd2c37d_b.jpg)
clink drills bolt 4
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1721/41049006230_bf9489bf87_b.jpg)
JC drilling bolt 5
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1824/28987049948_ac5881e8ac_c.jpg)
JC tops it out
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1750/28987049798_366c34f8a6_c.jpg)
end of another great experience
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/883/27991185957_47d2c34200_c.jpg)
Here is the route description. I stuck in a couple extra protection details for climberdude.
Mud Brother 5.7** - Mud Brother is the prominent water chute about 40 feet downhill from Ashes the Mud and I. The climbing up the chute is steep and varied - on an interesting selection of solid holds (reminiscent of Squeaky Clean Mud without the lower angle upper section). Start by traversing down and across the apron of rock about 20 feet downhill from Ashes the Mud and I. The traverse is very easy but there is some significant exposure. The first bolt on Ashes the Mud and I can be used to anchor the belayer. Once at the base of the chute, step up on a big lodestone and clip the first bolt. Tricky moves lead to the closely-spaced second bolt (a pink tricam between lodestones and a hook were used to place the 2nd bolt). Move past the second bolt up and onto a large, light-colored lodestone (sandy bottom). There is a red tricam placement in a hole at your waist before bolt 3. Reach high for the third bolt and move up. The flake prior to the 4th bolt can be carefully avoided using more solid holds. A few final, steep, fun moves lead to one more bolt and the exit onto very low angle terrain and the two-bolt anchor with chains (up and left). An easy rappel returns you to the start.
FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Kathy Cook, Dave Stahl
FA Date: 6-16-18
I’d like to dedicate this climb to Brad Young (my brother from another mudder :lol:). Brad has been and continues to be an instrumental influence on my climbing, an exceptional friend and a great mentor. Over the past few years, Brad helped me do many scary, old Pinnacles routes that I probably never would have done otherwise – and we did them as safely as possible. Brad encouraged me to get started with first ascents and inspired me to “pass it on” to the younger folks in our climbing community. Here’s mud in your eye brother! :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
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Almost forgot this one.
Good times dude :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1769/42811785542_c86820c80a_c.jpg)
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JC drilling bolt 5
It was great to watch you stance drill #5 and redpoint the FA. Pure fun route! Don't blow the second clip or you will do the one bounce.
once the stemming corner cleans up it will be more secure.
As we discussed climberdude should change his handle to climberbeast.
Almost forgot this one.
Good times dude :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
Cheers JC and KC, the best times!
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...resisting the urge, I settled in and got one more bolt in to protect the exit moves
Who are you and what have you done with our friend?
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I am trying to come up with some clever comment or rejoinder to your dedication. I can't though, I'm at a total loss for words.
Thank you.
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Cheers JC and KC, the best times!
Thanks for joining the fun Clink. What JC did not say about the climb yesterday, but I will - it was #500!
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I'm at a total loss for words.
Who are you and what have you done with our friend?
Ditto. :lol:
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Good Times
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...I'm at a total loss for words.
Admittedly this is not a common occurrence ::)
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Thanks for joining the fun Clink. What JC did not say about the climb yesterday, but I will - it was #500!
I've been thinking about how to comment about this. The obvious is bland: congratulations!
Not bland is the fact that John now has done 500 routes at Pinnacles in good style, in six Goddamn years. Is this dedication? Or fanaticism? Both? Insanity or steady-minded perseverance (definitely both on this one)?
Mix in somewhere around 200 old, crusty bolts that he has now replaced with modern hardware and I'd say he's making himself quite at home at this wonderful place.
Amazing. And totally admirable.
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Congratulations on 500!
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Not bland is the fact that John now has done 500 routes at Pinnacles in good style, in six Goddamn years. Is this dedication? Or fanaticism? Both? Insanity or steady-minded perseverance (definitely both on this one)?
Well said.
Amazing. And totally admirable.
True.
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JC and Brad as babies, were dropped on their heads and then in both cases, the poor infants continued to fall down a flight of stairs. While the flight of stairs JC fell down was quite long, the one Brad fell down was longer and continued into a busy street where he was also run over by a mule. The good news was that the mule was found by it's owner soon after.
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JC and Brad as babies, were dropped on their heads and then in both cases, the poor infants continued to fall down a flight of stairs. While the flight of stairs JC fell down was quite long, the one Brad fell down was longer and continued into a busy street where he was also run over by a mule. The good news was that the mule was found by it's owner soon after.
One of the things that's obvious on this site: I am completely surrounded by freaks.
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I've got an idea for J.C.:
600 by 60!
It's got a nice ring to it doesn't it?
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JC and Brad as babies, were dropped on their heads and then in both cases, the poor infants continued to fall down a flight of stairs. While the flight of stairs JC fell down was quite long, the one Brad fell down was longer and continued into a busy street where he was also run over by a mule. The good news was that the mule was found by it's owner soon after.
clink the clever strikes again :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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I've got an idea for J.C.:
600 by 60!
It's got a nice ring to it doesn't it?
That definitely is not happening but I agree it has a nice ring.
I wish all my mud brothers could have been on the recent FA but as is quite normal in my life, the timing was wrong.
I do appreciate all the help and support from everyone over the years.
Should we start a reality show for what so many consider the off season? Pinnacles - from NOT to HOT :idea: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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One of the things that's obvious on this site: I am completely surrounded by freaks.
Brad, your non-bland congratulation contained the words; dedication, fanaticism, insanity, steady-minded, and perseverance. I have heard moments of fanaticism and insanity, and even extreme dedication and perseverance in a normal person attributed to or dismissed by the statement, "Don't mind him, he was dropped on his head as a baby". This excuses a degree of abnormality in a "normal" person. I was simply trying to expand this metaphor to represent an honest quantification of your own and JC's abnormality.
I have climbed a few Pinnacles X/R routes that I felt fortunate to survive and hope to never relive that experience. You two have climbed so many of these.
The Mastery of Insanity
This is so far beyond my capability that I run out of comprehension...
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so does this thread work for talking about how are day was at pinns?
if not, apologies in advance...
... the heat is on! been to the park 5 times in the last 8 days. its getting hotter :(
took my mother to the east side for some hiking yesterday. she doesnt do well with heat but insisted she wanted to "have a real hike." looking at the forecast, i suggested that we could head up condor gulch to the high peaks before noon, and come down the HP trail back to bear gulch. i warned her full well to expect temps in the upper eighties/low nineties by the time we summitted.
planned worked great. with all the uphill behind us we casualy leap frogged from shade to shade. she saw condors. and a western whiptail lizard!
after some beer and a picnic, she abandoned me at bear gulch like a good mother.. but i had a trick up my sleeve.
my girlfriend megan was scheduled to meet me "somewhere around tiburcios x" where i would be top rope soloing until her arival with the full rack ;)
i didnt get fifty feet from the parking lot before turning around and seeing her show up!
despite the clock reading 4pm, it was still in the upper 80's... 6 hours of high peaks hiking and 24oz of lagunitas invoked a feeling of lethargy.
"screw it i need to lead rat race anyway."
we also toproped rat face and set a directional on the 5.9 hand crack to the right. that one is atrocious! 0/10 would not lead.
after so much fun, i was determined to finally lead coyote ugly... so we hiked up there with each step growing heavier and heavier.... upon finaly arriving to the reservior i elected to lie down for a quick nap in the gravel.
i snored.
15 minutes later, a boost of energy got me up, but a stumbling step indicated i might be too tired.
"you dont have to lead this right now..."
"but im ready!"
but tired is tired. the mind was willing but the body was weak.
maybe this afternoon...
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Yes, there was a tradition for use to always lead rat race at the end of the day.
I thought it was Beer Gulch?
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Yes, there was a tradition for use to always lead rat race at the end of the day.
I thought it was Beer Gulch?
The two uh youse?
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Well as I proceeded to Hardman status the day with joe ended with pickpocket.
Still Rat Race is a fun one.
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5.9 hand crack to the right. that one is atrocious! 0/10 would not lead.
ATDS! lol
Pinns in the summer, buahahahaha. Ya'll are nuts. No thx.
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It's that time again boys and girls :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup: :lol:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1891/44658860671_f672841600_z.jpg)
You might think from the way the rope is running there is a bolt in there somewhere. Wrong! :yikes:
Exploring to the top of the downclimb on p2 - Chaos Crag.
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I thought the tradition was to solo Rat Race at the end of the day.
Yes, there was a tradition for us to always lead rat race at the end of the day.
I thought it was Beer Gulch?
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It's that time again boys and girls :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup: :lol:
Woohooooooo!!!! Ready!
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I thought the tradition was to solo Rat Race at the end of the day.
That was POD
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Some shots from yesterday
Greeted by this little fella on the way in - beep beep :thumbup: :biggrin:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1894/42888505510_fbc9dabc0b_z.jpg)
and this big fella once we got started on the quest
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1889/42888506880_cfb14594b0_z.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1877/42888505830_e146ef99fd_z.jpg)
Now a couple obligatory climbing shots - some sinewy stemming to place the first piece (on the third pitch) Chaos Crag
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1900/44697744271_d5b1932647_z.jpg)
Shift over, sling a knob and move along
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1848/44697745731_fb658a406b_z.jpg)
Grovel your way along moss, dirt and imaginary pro (love the shadow :yesnod:)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1847/44697744531_7b45dd7a2a_z.jpg)
Now enjoy a monster of a summit with some hoopin' and hollerin'
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1892/42888506600_96f6f1e7b4_z.jpg)
Or two
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1875/44697744101_e703785d8c_z.jpg)
and some bodacious views along with the knowledge that you NEVER have to do this route again (unless you really want to) :lol:
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Nice. Cool you were able to get a shot of the road runner!
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Nice. Cool you were able to get a shot of the road runner!
Cheers to no longer having to climb on weekends (unless we want to) :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :arf:
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Best to buy a place in Soledad….shorten the new commute.
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Best to buy a place in Soledad….shorten the new commute.
I've tried to pitch that in the past. No sale. :lol:
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Don’t you 2x need to relocate to a place with a golf course near by.
Isn’t that what retired folk do?
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Don’t you 2x need to relocate to a place with a golf course near by.
Isn’t that what retired folk do?
We already live a block away from one - but the beach is just as close and free - so we go there instead.
Great whale and dolphin watching today on a long walk - perfect temps and just a light breeze/flat seas :lol:
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Rubble is just a hop away from the Frog
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Rubble is just a hop away from the Frog
Bam...Bam...Bam Bam Bam :idea: :smilewinkgrin:
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Bingo?
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Kat finally emerging from the depths and almost into the sunlight last Monday. Pockety Peccary 5.7*
clink has promised me some adventure Sunday
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1920/44258735724_bcb3603010_z.jpg)
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No cred for the small tool.
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No cred for the small tool.
Don't fret clink - I still consider you one of the biggest tools I know! :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
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Fun day with clink on the crud - although we had to cut it short - got 4 bolts in on a new project (two apiece).
Weather was very nice.
Met a couple nice folks at parking today - Henry and Sarah - and showed them around a bit - they were gettin' after it :biggrin: :thumbup:
Sports Basement crew was at Crud n Mud.
Here's fresh mud in your eye :arf:
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Wait that was feather canyon...did you heed my gear beta?
-gear to 6ft
-6 pack of tecate
I some how can imagine that my critical beta will be ignored in the next guide.
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Wait that was feather canyon...did you heed my gear beta?
-gear to 6ft
-6 pack of tecate
I some how can imagine that my critical beta will be ignored in the next guide.
Not feather - new routes to be announced soon. :smile5:
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Ribbit and Croak
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Not feather - new routes to be announced soon. :smile5:
Nice to see a pic of Kat (and your shadow) on one of my new routes... Hopefully I can get a party of people checking out additions to the area on the PCAD weekend!
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Trying to triangulate... is the new route on Teapot? Ball?
edit: wsit isnt that chaos crag directly behind you? hm.... no thats not it...
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Trying to triangulate... is the new route on Teapot? Ball?
edit: wsit isnt that chaos crag directly behind you? hm.... no thats not it...
Hey Zay -
The route is a new 5.7 I bolted in the past couple of months, at Spike's Peak. In total there are now 6 new routes at Spike's Peak that I've put up, with help from briham, JC (for the Little Javelina anchors), and others. The routes are 5.4, 5.7, 5.8, two at 5.10a, and one at 5.11a/b, with a few projects still unfinished. Yeah, I've been busy!
During the PCAD weekend I'll be hiking up to Spike's Peak with Brad Young - and hopefully other folks! - to climb the routes, and I'm guessing Brad will post details on the routes here at M 'n C after that. But IMO the lines are good, with two of the lines (a 5.10a and the 5.11) outstanding (and the other 5.10a pretty excellent too).
Send me a PM and I can give you more details.
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Was out for some shenanigans with clink today.
Ribbit and Croak now exists. I told clink he jinxed it with the name. The route was hopping along just fine and then we decided to squash it. Somehow I kept getting suckered in by the holds and then got myself marooned on a very large lodestone - past an awful section that I was not about to downclimb. That is where we decided the anchor should go and the route should end. I drilled to exhaustion and we called it a day after clink joined me. Pics tamale.
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Might be worth continuing to the right lane, from bolt 6 through the rappel line and up that ramp. Or not. Nice job keeping it together and stance drilling the red point JC.
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But IMO the lines are good, with two of the lines (a 5.10a and the 5.11) outstanding
Yep :yesnod: :ihih:
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Might be worth continuing to the right lane, from bolt 6 through the rappel line and up that ramp. Or not. Nice job keeping it together and stance drilling the red point JC.
I still think we should go up and left from the anchor to the summit. Don't see how it could be any worse than what we've already been through :rolleyes: :yesnod: :lol:
JC moves toward bolt 4 on the redpoint of Ribbit and Croak 5.6R
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1965/45185775581_5019d9310a_z.jpg)
Stuck on the big lodestone and looking at a nasty turn in every direction (after a lot of traversing) - time for an anchor.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1906/45185775621_f2d84aa421_z.jpg)
clink follows for the win?! :crazy: :arf:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1961/45185775281_2e34423f6d_z.jpg)
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Kat and I had quite the adventure today climbing one of the oldest routes in the park. I'll post a couple pics and give a few more details later. Here's a hint...Toot Toot :rolleyes: :lol:
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My outing with clink got cancelled this morning so I am left to overshare with you crudders.
Kat and I went back out to Tugboat yesterday with the hope of bagging the summit. I read every description in every guidebook. They all say to start on the same side (the left side) which we knew was impossible, since we scouted the formation back in 2013 and discovered an unlikely, loose, filthy start completely choked with PO. It was time to take another look. I looked on Google Earth and the right side of the formation looked clear. I also referred to Bruce’s rebolting post from 2012 for additional clues. I remembered Bruce telling me that Clint led a face (about 50 feet of 5.2) to get on deck. I also remembered Bruce saying the upper groove was scary. I was determined to get up this thing. It looks so cool from a distance and it is one of the oldest routes in the park. Roper speculated the FA was 1962 and Richards (the old guide I like the most) said 1956. Richards describes the upper groove as sinister looking. :ihih:
We found our way up the hillside, managing to avoid just a few leafless sprigs of PO down low. The hillside is clear but particularly annoying in terms of steepness, looseness (lots of scree and dirt) and groundcover that fills your socks and boots with hitchhikers. The right side is sunny this time of year so we had no time to waste (a predicted high of 88 turned out to be 90 when we checked later).
I found what looked like a reasonable start and stepped on. It was relatively easy but awkward right at the start. The sloping nature of the multiple decks and all the loose material on the surface makes you immediately aware of disastrous consequences and of course no meaningful pro – not to mention the length of time a rescue would take out there. Its Pinnacles – get over it.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1901/31576237358_17e3df7182_z.jpg)
Up and up I went, at times feeling like I was hiking up loose gravel and wishing I didn’t have climbing shoes on.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1934/30510913997_40804801c5_z.jpg)
I stopped and looked back down to Kat just before I went out of sight - probably still 40 feet from the belay. I’d estimate the first pitch at 95 feet (kind of reminded me of Ball Pinnacle).
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1934/30510913927_3402c3112b_z.jpg)
I looked up to see evidence of the last party bailing off.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1902/30510913667_fe445d9a5e_z.jpg)
When I got to the belay I realized that the belay bolt Bruce describes can actually be paired with the first lead bolt for a 2 bolt belay. The 2 bolts are only about 6 feet apart. The belay bolt is on the flat ledge and the first lead bolt is very low on the wall above.
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=1587.msg19192;topicseen#msg19192
Why did that party bail? No guidebook mentions more than 2 bolts. The 2nd lead bolt cannot be seen from below. Maybe they got up there, saw the two bolts and thought - no way I’m climbing up this thing unprotected. I think the other thing that happens at Pinns is people go looking for a climb strictly based on the grade. I talked to a kid one day that casually said he was going to do Knifeblade... :idea:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1950/31576238218_237d9147a5_z.jpg)
I belayed Kat up through the kitty litter nonsense and got set up to lead pitch 2.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1921/30510914697_076d2cce2c_z.jpg)
This is when you realize that the first lead bolt is way too low and way too far left – did they aid the start? (it was late 50’s or early 60’s). Aiding doesn't seem likely since the bolt is so far left but latch onto the starting holds and step into it and it is game on for a long series of steep, thin moves. There is a big lodestone above that looks like a thank God hold(it's not) as you claw your way through the 5.6(not) crux. Sling a knob and move up to the 2nd bolt – which also seems to be in a weird location (too low). There are a couple potential big cam placements (2 to 4 inches?) above bolt 2 but the climbing has eased considerably and you’re not that far from the bolt. Exposed moves on good rock get you to the top of the chute where you can sling a bomber knob for the exit moves.
Looking down from the cozy slot above bolt 2
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1962/30510913807_a3baae1e02_z.jpg)
Bomber sling knob for the exit moves
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1945/31576237968_96e7bd10c5_z.jpg)
The bolts really don’t protect the hardest moves other than to keep you from going all the way (another possible indicator of aiding?). Another old, no-fall Pinnacles route – shocking! :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :lol:
It’s old school cool.
Kat followed and we got down as quickly as we could (it was hot).
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1978/30510913577_bc1f5e43a4_z.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1946/30510914267_ff66c287ef_z.jpg)
Now slide, slip and cuss your way back to staging in climbing shoes. Pack up and ski scree back to the shade. We snacked, hydrated and then enjoyed some autumn leaves(PO of course) on our way into the wonderful coolness of the caves.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1960/30510913497_43b0f08a05_z.jpg)
We stopped by the Chalone winery on our way out for tasting and our thrice yearly member pickup.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1952/31576237728_ed8504d6c7_z.jpg)
Here is a photo topo and an updated but wordy description for the climb.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1948/30510913297_0d25c5da39_z.jpg)
Tugboat 5.7
Approach – weave up through relatively clear areas shortly after the formation comes into view from the Old Pinnacles trail (a short distance past/north of the junction of the Balconies Cliff trail and Old Pinnacles trail).
Start climbing (3rd or 4th class) up the southwest side from a plant-covered ledge about 50 feet uphill from the toe (see photo topo). Surmount multiple “decks” to reach a belay 95 feet from the start. A bolt at your feet and one low on the wall above (the first lead bolt) provide a belay and protection for starting pitch 2. Climb up the steep chute to a second bolt (cannot be seen from below) that protects the easier, upper section of the chute. Medium to large cams (2 to 4 inches) can be used to supplement the 2nd bolt. A large sling knob protects the exit moves. Scramble another 40 feet to the anchor on the backside lip of the formation (cannot be seen from below). Rappel 85 feet to the ground. There is currently no poison oak on this side of the formation.
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While you were climbing quality Pinnacles rock, I was repeating your stuff at Ay Chihuahua (after redpointing my project and picking up my rope and gear for the winter).
It was nice in the sun at 8,000 feet.
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While you were climbing quality Pinnacles rock, I was repeating your stuff at Ay Chihuahua
¿Has aprobado
Bow wow :lol:
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We were nailed by the 24hr stomach flu. Glad I didn't infect the Cooks. Martha is feeling better today thankfully, her birthday!
JC, any date ideas for Master Of Mud?
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When is the poison oak planting?
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We were nailed by the 24hr stomach flu. Glad I didn't infect the Cooks. Martha is feeling better today thankfully, her birthday!
JC, any date ideas for Master Of Mud?
Master of Mud starts Friday, April 5th through Sunday, April 7th. Group camp site booked - plan to celebrate JC's Big 60 (which is on Friday)! ;D >:D
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¿Has aprobado
Bow wow :lol:
¿Porque no hablas
¿No entiendes
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Damn that is during quarter end for me.
I’ll get a site or 2 the 3rd weekend in April
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Damn that is during quarter end for me.
I’ll get a site or 2 the 3rd weekend in April
Don't even play that card... - I had to listen to that for 16 years! :madmax: :madman: :incazzato: :lol:
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¿Porque no hablas
¿No entiendes
Silencio?
Es impossible! :lol:
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When is the poison oak planting?
Right after the PO bath :rolleyes: :yikes:
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JC,
I just heard this song and instantly thought you would appreciate it:
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I will have to work on the poison oak seeding this winter...
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JC,
I just heard this song and instantly thought you would appreciate it:
I'd give it no stars but thanks for thinking of me - pretty weak musically and lyrically - like some lame Zappa wanna be :lol:
Maybe we should have a PO appreciation thread :nonod: :eeeek: :crying: :crazy:
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How many Meanderthals does it take to make reservations on recreation.org?
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recreation.org
Ever been to the site, painful.
Clink, you in on planting more Poisen Oak this winter?
It will help the erosion.
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clink needs to make sure and plant some extra beans in his saddle bags or he's going to feel terribly left out around the fire.
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F4, Mj,and LEFH we are checking out the Clear Creek area this weekend. Permits are required for access to the serpentine area. Will give a report on what we find.
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Cool!!
We have wine pressing on Saturday and then bottling on Sunday.
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You spelled bolting wrong.
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F4, Mj,and LEFH we are checking out the Clear Creek area this weekend. Permits are required for access to the serpentine area. Will give a report on what we find.
Paranoia is also required. Be afraid. Be very afraid.
We'll do our best not to inhale :lol:
We'll shudder from the heat, look for minerals among the hydrothermal deposits, caress the state rock (serpentinite damnit!), reminisce about the good old days (environmentally) and contribute to climate change both on the trail and around the campfire...er...ring.
Got my hand lens and rock hammer ready :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
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Nice to hang out for mealtimes and around the propane campfire with the Cooks.
The hand lens was cool.
The Tootacabra is real and smelly and lurking nearby!
I was surprised Clear Creek had a steady flow. We paid our permit fee online and called on the way for the gate code. Rock hounding along the creek was great, especially with JC(The geology teacher) along. Hiking Goat mountain was stiff(We earned our beer) but great views. Looking forward to more camping/geology trips.
Johnny's first guess of JC's age was 83 :) Other than that his math skills were good for a seven year old.
Johnny was coughing some,
JC asks "Do you smoke?"
Johnny- "No."
JC- "Well, you should, you already have the cough."
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We took Gloria road back. Johnny crashed hard for an hour. First thing when he got home was to hop on his bike(which he just learned to ride) for 15 minutes before coming in to finish off the Mac n' cheese leftovers from camping. KC told us about how the drool inducing casserole form of the dish is prepared.
Nose in Oats, for the name dude.
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Clink, all that matters is did you find gold.
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Clink, all that matters is did you find gold.
No gold there - only the mercury to refine it. Lots of asbestos and overzealous regulations by raging environmentalists.
On the other hand - you could look for Tiburcio's treasure and there were several X's in the sky created by criss-crossing of the numerous con trails :lol:
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Tubercios treasure is under the monolith.
That’s why they brought the condors back....to guard it.
Yes, my buddy who used to take me out that way said “not good for riding when dry due to the asbestos.
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Yes, my buddy who used to take me out that way said “not good for riding when dry due to the asbestos.
The good news is the type of asbestos in the area is chrysotile. The bad stuff is crocidolite.
If anyone is interested - here is part of a scientific article with some eye opening stats and no axe to grind..
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1978/43820403180_458f3cfe2a_z.jpg)
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Well, we just need to know where the gold is, that's all that matters.
I am 100% convinced Tuburcio's Treasure is in the Monument.
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Quest for mud?
Tiburcio’s treasure IS the monument!
Heard you got the strap off. Bike riding? The world is your oyster!
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Tiburcio’s treasure IS the monument!
Exactly.
Although it's been a PARK for over five years now.
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M O N U M E N T
You are dead to me for such travesty! Park, pft.
;D
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M O N U M E N T
You are dead to me for such travesty! Park, pft.
;D
Joshua Tree National Park since what, 1992?
Should we head back down to the Monument?
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Omg! Monument!!!! Heh
Which one? At this rate were going to see the 4 presidents in granite.
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It will always be a monument to me.
Yes Munge, I can ride my bike and do almost everything.
Climbing end of December.
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Waiting to see if Ethan and his crew post some pics from yesterday. They had a fancy camera rig. We sent them up to start at Spikes Peak and suggested they wander past Burgundy and toward the Sponge for sunset.
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Clink, all that matters is did you find gold.
You folks need to go to the source for buried Pinnacles gold!
https://www.thewritersdrawer.net/joaquins-gold.html
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Say there Bob, I don't suppose you have a map to the treasure???
Might have to make one and let JC/Clink find it....
To me, it's the East Side.....they even a built a road to move the treasure.
Maybe its in/under the bear gulch reservoir....why else was it built for.
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Treasure map in the works...
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Kat and I added the second pitch to Ribbit and Croak yesterday and topped out. We saw Mark Seelos (MudMittens) in the parking lot and he got to listen to Kat and me playing the Bickersons on the climb (he was climbing at the Hand)
It was a tough day with the sun coming around sooner than the two previous outings with clink (damn time change).
By the time I got to the first pitch anchor, the sun was roasting me. I decided it would be best to get the first bolt in on p2 so when Kat came up I could get going and she wouldn't have to hang at the belay as long. It was a good thing I did! The only decent rock I could find had me overextended to the point I could not grip the drill holder but only turn it with my fingertips. On tiptoes, spread out awkwardly and twisted, I struggled for what seemed like forever to get the first bolt in. It was after 1:00 when I finished the bolt. Long story short, it kicked my arse. Kat followed p1 and we got reorganized at the belay (it is easier utilized as a hanging belay if you do pitch 2). Before Kat came up, I removed the temporary rappel hardware clink and I left when we finished p1 and I put chains and proper screwlinks on the anchor. Now if someone just wants to lead p1 and rappel...they can. :yikes:
If someone wants to go climb it, be my guest. :devildevil: clink congratulated me on leading the first pitch again without injury. :ihih:
With the possible exception of the first bolt, it is very much in keeping with other Frog routes.
The starting boulder (see route description below).
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1961/43918396460_bbcf0921ce_z.jpg)
Stance for bolt 2, pitch 2. How bout those scary looking flakes? :yesnod: :yikes:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1947/43918396570_6fd1216890_z.jpg)
Approximate photo topo for both pitches showing the two bolt midway anchor and the 2nd and 3rd lead bolts on p2
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4810/45736032941_e6a85bd1cb_z.jpg)
And what TR would be complete without this? Pretty nifty reflection eh?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4854/43918396670_549fbe5a16_z.jpg)
Ribbit and Croak 5.6R
Starts about 50 feet left of Getch Getchy Bird on the west face of The Frog. Step off a big boulder and climb the face up and a little left to bolt 1. Continue up and a little left to bolt 2, then start traversing up and right to bolts 3 and 4. Climb up from bolt 4 toward the large overhang above. Duck under/into the right edge of the overhang and then make committing, runout moves out and onto the slab on the right – make a few more moves to reach bolt 5. Traverse right to bolts 6 and 7. There is a big, hollow, unstable? scab past bolt 7 with two medium-sized lodestones next to each other. These provide footholds and allow careful passage across the hollow scab and onto a dirty slab. Move up the slab to a big lodestone and climb onto the lodestone to reach the two-bolt anchor with chains – 110 feet from the start. Rappel 70 feet to the ground or continue up pitch 2.
FA Date 10-7-18, FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran
Pitch 2 – clip the first bolt (out left of the anchor) and step over an easy overhang, onto an exposed stance. Make committing moves up and slightly left to bolt 2. Climb to a third bolt about 25 feet higher. From the 3rd bolt, continue up a few moves and escape out right onto class four terrain - then meander to the summit (topping out below the left side/north end of the summit block, 65 feet from the start). Scramble down the opposite/east side 20 feet (class two) and belay from flat ground (no summit anchor). Walk off South Side Shuffle and around the south end of the formation.
FA Date 11-4-18, FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook
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That route fits the MOM t shirt description well. I ran into Brian and Whitney yesterday at the Corralitos Market. they had been on a biking session at the Demonstration Forest I believe. Brian was wearing one of those shirts that Noal printed up.
Fitting the reflection of Birdbrain in the last pic. :)
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That route fits the MOM t shirt description well.
Fitting the reflection of Birdbrain in the last pic. :)
Watch it! :lol: :crazy: :prrr:
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If someone wants to go climb it, be my guest.
Yeah, I'll give it a go. Soon, I suspect.
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I suspect.
Yes. classification being not "a", but explicitly "the Usual"
Pinnacles has a fair number of Road Kill routes, a few of the climbers over the years have developed a taste for carrion.
:)
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Pinnacles has a fair number of Road Kill routes, a few of the climbers over the years have developed a taste for carrion.
I go where the rock leads me. This one is good until it isn't. Then it is mainly a matter of knowing how to find and use the best holds and avoid the bad stuff. The route finding is tricky and the runouts will get your full attention. Bob and weave, steady the nerves, repeat. I am so glad we did the 2nd pitch since it actually gets better again and results in a decent finish. Probably should have waited a year and called p2 Frozen Chicken :nonod: :out: :lol:
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Yeah, I'll give it a go. Soon, I suspect.
My suggestion would be to finish your route with Larry. Kat and I can go up and climb to the true summit of The Frog and maybe replace the bolt on Getch Getchy Bird while you guys work. Then you and Larry can climb Ribbit and Croak while Kat and I do the second ascent of
Spoof Proof Roof. We can cuss at each other from the respective routes - though I imagine most of the foul language will be heard my way. :rolleyes: :crazy: :arf:
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Then you and Larry can climb Ribbit and Croak
I changed what's left of my mind. I think briham would be a better partner for the route :out: :lol:
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We can cuss at each other from the respective routes - though I imagine most of the foul language will be heard my way. :rolleyes: :crazy: :arf:
That's a very odd thing to say. The whole climbing community knows that I do not cuss.
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That's a very odd thing to say. The whole combing community knows that I do not cuss.
Alright Mr. Swearengen - now fix your hair! >:D
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That's a very odd thing to say. The whole combing community knows that I do not cuss.
I thought I was part of the brushing community? :ihih:
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I thought I was part of the brushing community? :ihih:
Don’t forget to brush your tooth.
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That's a very odd thing to say. The whole climbing bing community knows that I do not cuss.
Bing Bing Bing Richochet Rabbit :biggrin: :lol:
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Bing Bing Bing Richochet Rabbit :biggrin: :lol:
Cold as hell today in the shade at 6,500 feet. Worth it though. And what's with this dark at 5:30 crap [edit: stuff - I DO NOT cuss]?
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Crap for crap's sake. Now cut the crap Bing ??? :idea: :arf:
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Cold as hell today in the shade at 6,500 feet.
This elevation doesn't seem to fit a Pinnacles Mud thread.
And a second infraction
Cold as hell today. I DO NOT cuss
:madmax: :madman: :nono: :frown2: :out: :ciappa:
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Cold as hell today in the shade at 6,500 feet.
Cold again today at 6,500 feet.
But the Views! Plus it counts as a work day - I was climbing with my business partner Jennifer. Two new routes, both 50 feet high:
- Butter 5.8 *
- Scotch 5.5 *
(She wanted to name the crag after our dogs - all three are red - so Red Dogs Slab, and hers is named Butterscotch.)
Now, enough of this granite close to home nonsense. Pinnacles season starts this weekend. Looking forward to it.
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Cold again today at 6,500 feet.
Here we go again... :madmax: :incazzato: :madman: :ciappa:
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We went to the west side with the Raisin Snails yesterday. We started at Chockstone Dome, taking turns leading Walk the Plank. It was a little smoky when we got there and the smoke was supposed to get worse around 4:00 pm. By the time we finished having fun on the dome it was already getting bad. beano got on lead for the first time since she had the baby 15 months ago.
beano leading The Big Bad West. That haze you see is smoke. It was pretty bad but not quite enough to chase us out.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4911/45780560242_2d3be05a9f_z.jpg)
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Thanks for taking us out cookies, and enduring the squeals of the wee beanito. Leading feels much easier with 15 lbs less. Maybe I can start loading up with gear, or bolts ha ha ha
I can think of some routes that I'd like to fill in with more bolts!!!! :) :) :)
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It was fun to watch beanito try to mimic the adults. And to see she inherited mom's preference for slabs, stems (chimneys!!), and photogenic expressions.
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/IMG_20181110_150500_zpsc4kk7le8.jpg)
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/IMG_20181110_153233_zpsbyq1f3lc.jpg)
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/IMG_20181110_155443_zpsr12btfdd.jpg)
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Brings back memories of my older girls when they were that age on the Westside. :)
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Pinnacles water makes them strong!!!
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I just had a fantastic three days at the place that we all love, the last two with J.C. and K.C.
I'm pretty much into Pinnacles season now. I even talked with Jim a few minutes ago about finishing a project he started down there in 1985! Let's go Jim ::)
Got to climb some cool new routes on Monday.
Lonesome Me is fun and so is Fixtures. Crumble and Tumble was a no-go.
Didgeridoo adds a bit more value to the area (I'm sure Brad is working furiously on the new routes thread).
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1936/45155940444_5b79bcdc51_z.jpg)
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...I'm sure Brad is working furiously on the new routes thread.
Those damn fence posts still mystify me. Half a mile of thick brush from anywhere that anyone might ever have used a fencepost in or near Pinnacles.
No fury here. At least regarding getting the new routes described so far. Instead I've been unbelievably busy on real work. One staff member (my secretary) has a badly broken finger and is typing at two-thirds speed. Another is taking care of a very frail, elderly mother and had to take a few emergency days off (we actually encourage her in this: family really, really matters). Then there is Jennifer, one of my two business partners. She seemed to think that last evening would be a fine one in which to have an emergency appendectomy and, of course, we've had to cover for her. Yep, its been a mad scramble here today (mad enough that I had to take five minutes to type this and, simultaneously, catch my breath).
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^^^^
You're in desperate need of another dose of MUD with a side of Tadpole :biggrin: :thumbup: :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin:
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^^^^
You're in desperate need of another dose of MUD with a side of Tadpole :biggrin: :thumbup: :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin:
Lemme catch up a little first, brother. But yeah, it's now Pinnacles season for sure.
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Lemme catch up a little first, brother. But yeah, it's now Pinnacles season for sure.
Teaser and the MudKat
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1917/30696603437_ff8d5e8d9d_z.jpg)
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Big chunk of stone.
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Yep, its been a mad scramble here today (mad enough that I had to take five minutes to type this and, simultaneously, catch my breath).
So you're saying you had to work 35 hours this week? ;D (said lovingly)
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or 38 hours? ;)
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So you're saying you had to work 35 hours this week? ;D (said lovingly)
Yo, kid: my name is on the letterhead. I'm it (one of three "its" in our firm). As such, I'm working 24 hours a day, seven days a week.
That's 168 hours a week. Your math skills need some serious work (and don't be so damn jealous either).
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Better late than never. This one is for beano aka Raisin Snail and beanita
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4842/45173353874_31372c0021_z.jpg)
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Big eye roll to Brad's post :rolleyes:
LOL to John's post :lol:
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hahhahahha, on point John
5.7x!? Gah
can we throw some fenceposts in at least for mental pro
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He's a lawyer, not an accountant
Kathy, how many hours is he working??
My computer scientist viewpoint (based on # posts) is 15 hahhahahah
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He's a lawyer, not an accountant
No normal person thinks of me as a lawyer. It goes like this: Husband, father, climber, hiker, author. Then, maybe, what I do for a living.
And I work many, many, many hours a week. And then overtime, putting up with YOU PEOPLE.
BTW Cook, if you two make it to Tricia's play? Remember what you typed onto that photo of Kim. How prescient!
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Approximately 48 hours a day, is what I was told.
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You were "told?" Told?
Objection, hearsay. Actually in this case, objection, hearsay that is heresy. Told, sheesh. There's no-one out there credible enough to even start talking on that point.
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BTW Cook, if you two make it to Tricia's play? Remember what you typed onto that photo of Kim. How prescient!
If you belay beano on lead it is her stock phrase after negotiating the difficulties :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
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If you belay beano on lead it is her stock phrase after negotiating the difficulties :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
Yep, I've heard her. Always with a smile and a bit of a laugh too.
She'd love Tricia's character in the play....
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Aww u retirees and part / over timers
enjoying the banter
have fun with all your time. can't wait until it's my time. i should hire an accountant to count it down for me (KATHY!?)
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A good play is hard to beat for entertainment.
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The key is to find tubercios treasure.
I found a map!
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tubercios treasure.
Tater treasure!
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Tater treasure!
Commentator
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Spoken like a true spud!
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You all seem to be living in your own private Idaho. :rolleyes:
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Spudnik, Idaho's first satellite.
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You all seem to be living in your own private Idaho.
And your point is???
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Quoting Geoff today "There is an art to being good." pause "It seems to be lost."
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Private Idaho is sant Cruz
;D
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Yo peeps,
Looking to climb Machete tomorrow, but its supposed to rain all night, stopping just before sunrise.
West face doesnt get sun till like noon... any chance of not slipping off the climb?
any hard data on rain compromising the integrity of the rock?
Happy thanksgiving!
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which route?
clipping an aid route/bolt ladder won't be a problem.
will likely be wet most places that aren't under an overhang.
stay off crimps right after a rain, and stay off protruding features right after a rain, is my recommendation.
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thanks munge!
Im thinking about Bills Bad Bolts. I was going to approach it via lucky 13 to GP headwall, but I remember the runouts on GP being kind gnar and I never found the last bolt when i did it. so i might just go with West Face.
Hoping to solo it.
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It will be a waterfall for a day or so after the rain. Been there in weather like this and needed a snorkel.
The only dry option is the much-shitty great arch traverse.
Fun route if everything else is wet.
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"It" as in Machete or West Face? P1 of West stays dry. But don't hook the free holds otherwise people get all bent.
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Better to stay home, sitting by a fire with a brew or 3.
I’m going diving Saturday.
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Rain rain, rain rain rain, rain rain rain rain rain rain rain.
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^^^
It's gonna be snow here. I've gotta get the snowblower out, cleaned and fueled. We're set on firewood.
Did you get on any of the Machete stuff while we had weather break?
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Dare I admit Ive been running back and forth to The Valley every few days for thr last 2 months?
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Dare I admit Ive been running back and forth to The Valley every few days for thr last 2 months?
Not on this thread blasphemer.
Your legs must be tired.
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Dare I admit Ive been running back and forth to The Valley every few days for thr last 2 months?
Which valley? There's Hanging, Neglected, Forgotten, and Deserted (at least). All are worthwhile, but I can't tell from your post which one you've been running to....
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It's not valley.
It's THE Valley.
I mean, why would you go there if you didn't have to?
I'm sure normal people say the same thing about Pinns.
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No normal person thinks of me as...
No one on this forum seems to fit that description. :out: :prrr:
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Granite!!!
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(https://i.redd.it/p8du3xsyg5121.jpg)
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Where in hell did you get that and how can I get a copy?
Maybe it should go on the next Master's of Mud Rendezvous T-shirt!
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buahahahahaha!
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Where in hell did you get that and how can I get a copy?
Brad, "right click" and then "save image as". Congratulations, you can now steal photos on the internet!
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Or go to this website:
https://imgflip.com/memegenerator
and make things like this....
(https://i.imgflip.com/2norue.jpg)
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^^^^^^
^^^^^^
^^^^^^
^^^^^^
^^^^^^
:puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke:
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Brad,
I made it, haha! Google "meme maker" and some of the sites can let you even upload your own image.
Here is another one I made a while back:
(https://i.redd.it/15lud0dq5u611.jpg)
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Pinnacles climbing season has officially started, but now there is only rain in the forecast for days.
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I made it, haha! Google "meme maker" and some of the sites can let you even upload your own image.
Kids these days....
What'll they think of next?
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^see above dank ass memes
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Pinnacles climbing season has officially started, but now there is only rain in the forecast for days.
One and two-thirds inches fell in 24 hours. All the valleys are just a little deeper now.
Good time to go take a Mud Bath.
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I like the first meme
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My favorite JC meme:
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/gone_zpskf9aovoc.jpg)
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... similarly:
(with an old signature from Kristin)
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/gonetom_zpseia1isun.jpg)
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lol
A J. Cook classic!
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My favorite JC meme:
(http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s457/beanolar/gone_zpskf9aovoc.jpg)
This would be better if it was the other JC climbing >:D
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I would definitely take a T-shirt at the next MoM event with that meme, but it needs to be the other JC, no offense to the JC pictured.
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I couldnt find a real JC pic that was hairy enough to warrant the quote.
John you gotta get better at taking risky selfies
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Either JC doesn't take risks or he refuses to let anyone take a picture of his risk taking. ;D
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Either JC doesn't take risks or he refuses to let anyone take a picture of his risk taking. ;D
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4805/44293041880_2d9d94e2aa_b.jpg)
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I always wanted to get MOM bumper stickers.... I "HEART" Choss!
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Everybody <3 Choss!
Nice photoshop job, Brad. What will you photoshop next?
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3 heads are better than 1. The Frog True Summit. The head block actually looks a little froggy from this angle :yesnod: :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4873/32312313588_f726d093d2_z.jpg)
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Huh, it does
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3 heads are better than 1. The Frog True Summit. The head block actually looks a little froggy from this angle :yesnod: :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4873/32312313588_f726d093d2_z.jpg)
And if it does, pray tell, is that an orange wart on its head?
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^^^
Well, a handsome, muscular and quite intelligent wart, I mean.
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Strangely, after all the weather hype, very little rain fell overnight.
Considering the limited accessibility, Kat got a decent shot of me making that awkward, reachy move that gets you on your way to the summit.
A three inch cam provides some nice pro for all you aspiring summiteers :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4886/31252028737_16353a2643_z.jpg)
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We certainly squeezed in a day between raindrops.
J.C., I changed the descriptions of Tadpole Rock - East Face and The Frog - True Summit. Any edits or comments?
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We certainly squeezed in a day between raindrops.
J.C., I changed the descriptions of Tadpole Rock - East Face and The Frog - True Summit. Any edits or comments?
Sent you a PM.
Shoulda gotten on that old POS but I wasn't feeling in the mood for a scarefest. :yikes:
Was really hoping you'd find a lower bolt :crying:
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Sent you a PM.
Shoulda gotten on that old POS but I wasn't feeling in the mood for a scarefest. :yikes:
Was really hoping you'd find a lower bolt :crying:
None of it is really scary until you fall :D
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None of it is really scary until you fall :D
Or until you say Wham! or Boom! O' great and powerful predictor of doom! :incazzato: :out: :prrr:
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Pinns is getting slammed again with rain - almost 1/2 an inch in the last 6 hours.
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Pinns is getting slammed again with rain - almost 1/2 an inch in the last 6 hours.
Wham!
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Has to be fake news it never rains at the pinnacles!!
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Has to be fake news it never rains at the pinnacles!!
Stopped after 1:30 this morning - 3/4 of an inch total for this round.
More expected today and tonight - then a break for the weekend (what good is that?) and supposed to get more starting again Monday. Fill 'er up.
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Stopped after 1:30 this morning - 3/4 of an inch total for this round.
More expected today and tonight - then a break for the weekend (what good is that?) and supposed to get more starting again Monday. Fill 'er up.
.9 in my back yard - I just looked. It must have been a good deal more in the Gabilans!
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[ Invalid YouTube link ]
:puke:
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Wham / Slayer is so awesome. My life is more complete
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Wham / Slayer is so awesome. My life is more complete
All of our lives are now more complete. Any contribution from Noal has this effect.
(Actually, the breadth of his music knowledge is pretty damn impressive.)
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Wham / Slayer is so awesome. My life is more complete
So awful! And that damn riff was stuck in my head the whole time I was out on the wheel today.
Spun for almost 59 minutes too! It was a Slow Ride.
Let's see if he can dig up some obscure version of that one :arf: :guitar: :blahblah:
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Then there is this.....[ Invalid YouTube link ]zVELpokOD6s
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Where do you find this stuff?
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Those are some lovely, soothing vocals :yesnod: :nonod: :out: :crazy:
Did something get cut off with the Then there is this? (The link behind the video?)
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Those mashups are so funny. But man you DO NOT mess with Bill Withers!!! :nonod:
Slayer can mess with Wham any day of the week in my book.... :blahblah: :guitar: :devildevil:
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[ Invalid YouTube link ]
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Those mashups are so funny.
Make it stop please! :yikes:
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Here's a repeat of the rising moon for ya buddy (NOAL). :lol: :ciappa:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4886/31252028737_16353a2643_z.jpg)
Anybody been questing for Mud?
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Anybody been questing for Mud?
The Twain Harte Christmas parade is tonight!! Tricia's band is marching. There will be fire trucks!!
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BAD MOON RAGING BRO.
[ Invalid YouTube link ]
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The Twain Harte Christmas parade is tonight!! Tricia's band is marching. There will be fire trucks!!
Anybody been questing for Mud?
Admit it. You were thinking about it today. No rain yesterday and nice conditions today - plus...sunny the next 2 days!
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Hot, hot, multi-family garage sale tomorrow in Santa Cruz. Rumor has it that there will be lots of very dull 3/8 inch drill bits on sale :P
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Admit it. You were thinking about it today. No rain yesterday and nice conditions today - plus...sunny the next 2 days!
Add in the fact that I spent over an hour working on guidebook text and half an hour cleaning the Rubble Wall map today. And I'm still waiting for help on that map, BTW. Yep, mud on the mind.
And the Twain Harte Christmas parade is tonight!! Yeehaw.
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Hot, hot, multi-family garage sale tomorrow in Santa Cruz. Rumor has it that there will be lots of very dull 3/8 inch drill bits on sale :P
Not sure I have any of those. I'll put a few aside for you if I find any.
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BAD MOON RAGING BRO.
You got me twice brah. Not havin' it :biggrin:
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I think Wham with Slayer was awesome! Weather is looking good for Pinns this weekend.
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I think Wham with Slayer was awesome! Weather is looking good for Pinns this weekend.
Hoping to make it out Sunday - as mentioned in an earlier post - we are having a multi family yard sale at our house tomorrow. I may need something extra in my coffee tomorrow morning ;)
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I hope there is no good climbing gear for sale at the yard sale. Selling good climbing gear is not a good sign. If you want to sell collector item climbing gear, no problem. I hope the sale goes well.
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I think Wham with Slayer was awesome! Weather is looking good for Pinns this weekend.
Family Christmas stuff tonight and tomorrow, Table Mountain Sunday for a massive pump.
Pinns on Tuesday and Wednesday (J.C. and K.C., are you available on Wednesday?).
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The Twain Harte Christmas parade is tonight!! Tricia's band is marching. There will be fire trucks!!
The Summerville High School Orange Crush band (school colors are black and orange):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4806/46173699732_2dac101f84_b.jpg)
Our favorite trumpet player on the far right, first line (also a Pinnacles first ascentionist no less):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4825/44407298650_866ecd37ce_c.jpg)
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I hope there is no good climbing gear for sale at the yard sale. Selling good climbing gear is not a good sign. If you want to sell collector item climbing gear, no problem. I hope the sale goes well.
No worries, No climbing gear for sale. Just lots of stuff we no longer need in the house.
;D
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first snow day in the lower regions yesterday. Last day of non rain today before the next deluge comes in. Current long term weather forecast after today is rain followed by more rain. I am part way through the design of the new ark.
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And when is spring??
Yer screwed!!!
Take up knitting by the fireplace.
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Had not thought of that. Will have to look into a fireplace.
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No fire place?
Man, you need one.
And one of those comfy chairs, that reclines.
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no to the fireplace. I am not splitting wood.
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no to the fireplace. I am not splitting wood.
Damn, complete flashback to that cabin you lived in in the Santa Cruz Mountains.
You didn't split wood there. Newspaper and large chunks of hard, oak wood, no splitting at all. Of course it took you 45 minutes of concentrated work to get the damn fire even going (that's a lot of lost knitting time).
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Quote from: mynameismud on Today at 03:41:03 PM
no to the fireplace. I am not splitting wood.
Damn, complete flashback to that cabin you lived in in the Santa Cruz Mountains.
You didn't split wood there. Newspaper and large chunks of hard, oak wood, no splitting at all. Of course it took you 45 minutes of concentrated work to get the damn fire even going (that's a lot of lost knitting time).
Damn Brad, you really hit the nail on that one....you'd think by now he'd know how to split wood.
Oh, how I wish I could have a fire at our place. I may have to buy a place in the Mtns, just to be able to have a fire and sit on the couch to watch it.
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Damn Brad, you really hit the nail on that one....you'd think by now he'd know how to split wood.
Oh, how I wish I could have a fire at our place. I may have to buy a place in the Mtns, just to be able to have a fire and sit on the couch to watch it.
Just put more wood on our fire.
Now, we've been highjacking John's fine thread for a while. Perhaps we should let it get back to its original subject??
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You have a point, I would split wood for the proper circumstance.
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Just put more wood on our fire.
Now, we've been highjacking John's fine thread for a while. Perhaps we should let it get back to its original subject??
I have a pellet stove I'll let you have cheap Mud.
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I do not like those things. Rather have a gas look a like wood stove.
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I do not like those things. Rather have a gas look a like wood stove.
Picky picky picky :rolleyes:
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Now, we've been highjacking John's fine thread for a while. Perhaps we should let it get back to its original subject??
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Now, we've been highjacking John's fine thread for a while. Perhaps we should let it get back to its original subject??
Kat lookin' chilled on the quest yesterday (Crowley Tower One approach).
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4873/45363530905_aef6458fde_z.jpg)
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No pelt stove for him. He needs to split his own wood.
It builds character.
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Plus one for the mud and the thread count.
Kat lookin' chilled on the quest yesterday (Crowley Tower One approach).
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4873/45363530905_aef6458fde_z.jpg)
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We finished Full Circle today. The third pitch was shorter than I expected, at 70 feet.
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any chance its dry?????
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Some slight dampness. Barely noticeable and it doesn’t affect the climbing.
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Yeah, Full Circle should be dry enough for at least a couple days before the next front of rain comes through this weekend. It was a relief to finally get that route finished... It's been a few years in the making!
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Congrats on the new FA
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I’ll update the description and the topo once I’m home and have access to my computer.
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Spoiler alert
Brad and waldo climbed Ribbit and Croak today - each leading a pitch. I think they dug it :yesnod: :lol: :ihih:
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Spoiler alert
Brad and waldo climbed Ribbit and Croak today - each leading a pitch. I think they dug it :yesnod: :lol: :ihih:
And we didn't croak....
Yeah, I think you undersold that route. The first 85 feet of climbing in the first pitch is really good. And true, the last 15 feet of that pitch are going to take about 200 ascents to clean up. But two relatively long pitches to the top of The Frog? Pretty nice.
And that first pitch anchor? That's literally a work of art. I'd haul El Cap loads off of that anchor with no worries.
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I concur with Brad. It was nice to see bomber bolts while I worked my way through the crumble.
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Look forward to the write-up of the route. Was it dry enough to reasonably climb? I was at the base several weeks ago, but it was way too wet to climb since it was northwest facing.
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^^^^
Thanks for the feedback guys. That upper bolt on the p1 anchor is half inch.
So glad we went back and took it to the top.
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It was wet. Slime makes you concentrate. Only the worthwhile (mostly) holds were dry.
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Look forward to the write-up of the route. Was it dry enough to reasonably climb? I was at the base several weeks ago, but it was way too wet to climb since it was northwest facing.
It stays nice and shady except at the belay. I roasted there when Kat and I did the 2nd pitch.
My writeup is on page 47 of this thread and will probably give you more details than the finished product :rolleyes:
Brevity is not my strong point when writing route descriptions.
Ribbit and Croak 5.6R
Starts about 50 feet left of Getch Getchy Bird on the west face of The Frog. Step off a big boulder and climb the face up and a little left to bolt 1. Continue up and a little left to bolt 2, then start traversing up and right to bolts 3 and 4. Climb up from bolt 4 toward the large overhang above. Duck under/into the right edge of the overhang and then make committing, runout moves out and onto the slab on the right – make a few more moves to reach bolt 5. Traverse right to bolts 6 and 7. There is a big, hollow, unstable? scab past bolt 7 with two medium-sized lodestones next to each other. These provide footholds and allow careful passage across the hollow scab and onto a dirty slab. Move up the slab to a big lodestone and climb onto the lodestone to reach the two-bolt anchor with chains – 110 feet from the start. Rappel 70 feet to the ground or continue up pitch 2.
FA Date 10-7-18, FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran
Pitch 2 – clip the first bolt (out left of the anchor) and step over an easy overhang, onto an exposed stance. Make committing moves up and slightly left to bolt 2. Climb to a third bolt about 25 feet higher. From the 3rd bolt, continue up a few moves and escape out right onto class four terrain - then meander to the summit (topping out below the left side/north end of the summit block, 65 feet from the start). Scramble down the opposite/east side 20 feet (class two) and belay from flat ground (no summit anchor). Walk off South Side Shuffle and around the south end of the formation.
FA Date 11-4-18, FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook
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What is apparent from the above posts is _____.
:) 1. Candidates for a picture depicting abnormal in the dictionary.
2.?
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O M G
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114014683/rock-bottom
this looks horrifying
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:puke:
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^^^
What a couple of candy-asses. Mud. Crud. Munge (hell, that's part of your damn name). It's all what we purport to love about the place.
Are you two going soft? Probably too much snow. Snowflakes. Yeah, that's it. In the truest sense of the word :P
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I am a precious snow flake! Love me. Fear me!
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The remarkable beauty of Pinnacles is that it always seems able to offer up a new low in rock quality.
Great name choice by the JC and KC.
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The remarkable beauty of Pinnacles is that it always seems able to offer up a new low in rock quality.
Great name choice by the JC and KC.
There's no "the" in JC and KC :prrr: :ciappa:
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O M G
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114014683/rock-bottom
this looks horrifying
Your post simply drips with envy :lol:
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There's no "the" in JC and KC :prrr: :ciappa:
Geesus. You'd think you were a highway in Southern California or sumpin'.
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:puke:
Watch it buddy - you're almost 30 and it's all downhill from there - Happy Birthday from the Cookies :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
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THE bad thing about Twimpy gov shutdown is Pinnacles will be closed.
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Hell no is the orange turd going to shut down Pinnacles. I heard that if there was a shutdown, it would not affect the National Park Service. I hope that is true since I have reservations this coming week for camping at the Pinnacles.
I did not see any alerts on the Pinnacles NPS website regarding Pinns being shut. Gavin, is there any plans for shutting Pinns if the orange turd shuts down the government?
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Hell no is the orange turd going to shut down Pinnacles.
Is this like the hantavirus?
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No, it is much worst than the hantavirus.
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No, it is much worst than the hantavirus.
Quite true I suppose if you're a Syrian Kurd who's spent the last three years fighting with U.S. military forces....
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I always thought about Christmas at the monument .
Needless to say the boss was not thrilled.
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Time to get a new boss!
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It's official - but the Quest will continue regardless.
Sally forth into the choss :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Just back from the Crud.
What did we do today? A new route of course. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
It was the end of our seventh year of climbing at Pinns.
We started on this date in 2011.
Seven Year Itch 5.2
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4895/31507965067_48ed9fd9ae_z.jpg)
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By the way - the gate on the west side was open - it's on a timer and I'm sure the gates will stay open on the east side. The bathrooms are locked, so plan accordingly. The campground is not run by the park, so I imagine it will be business as usual.
We saw a squadron of six condors (2 groups of 3) soaring above Balconies while we were enjoying some after climbing libation in the parking lot. Nice sunset on the drive out.
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Quest for Mud Special edition achieved new status yesterday when we arrived in the west side parking lot to a large mud pie of a different and disgusting sort. Someone had decided to relieve themselves in the parking space just in front of the restrooms. KC suggested I not post the picture.
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we call those Twimp Turds. GOP controlled House, Senate, and Executive. Now they think they can leave the sh1t show for the rest of us.
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we call those Twimp Turds. GOP controlled House, Senate, and Executive. Now they think they can leave the sh1t show for the rest of us.
I just thought it gave new meaning to Much Shitty Ridge.
The stool was a loose, large pile (no turds), indicating a very regular person.
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thank you for your restraint
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Jiffy Poop
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Savages!
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My last climbing partner just moved to Texas, so I bought gear to solo TR, and today I faced the hordes attracted by free entrance to break it in on Deep Groove Wall. Absolutely perfect day. I tagged all 4 routes. Huge thanks to everyone who developed them. They were all super solid and super fun. No Room for Squares was especially good.
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No mud-addict in training on the gri-gri?
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He needs a couple more pounds. Or JC and KC need to start installing anchors at the bottom of their routes for me to tether him to. ;D
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He needs a couple more pounds. Or JC and KC need to start installing anchors at the bottom of their routes for me to tether him to. ;D
I used to go to the Gorge with Katie and she’d belay me with a GriGri while tethered. And then after climbing we’d go out on desert roads and I’d teach her to drive.
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He needs a couple more pounds. Or JC and KC need to start installing anchors at the bottom of their routes for me to tether him to. ;D
Sorry bro - we like you and Calvin but that is not going to happen.
Funny that you posted today as your tag line and name came up today when we were on our way out of the west side.
Glad you enjoyed the routes - "Squares" was NOAL's brainchild and we had a lot of fun putting that up on his birthday. Definitely the best route on that particular wall.
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Savages!
Yes - thanks to people like this they are shutting the east side down as of today (starts tomorrow Sunday the 30th).
According to the Pinns facebook page, only people with verifiable campground reservations will be allowed past the intersection of hwy 25 and 146 (the east entrance). You must present your reservation receipt to gain access. No cars will be allowed past the campground road.
The west entrance will remain open - for now...
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Glad I snuck in under the wire. I got a late start and didn't hit Bear Gulch until 11, and it was a madhouse. I waited 15 minutes for a parking spot. Others were parking in the 20 minute spots and on the side of the road, but I had zero doubt that, shutdown or no, the government had enough in its coffers for parking enforcement. Sure enough, when I returned there were a lot of orange tags on a lot of windows.
And speaking of thinking of mudders while on the west side, about a month ago I may have gotten a shot of your orange shirt, JC. Once I get my act together with Flickr I'll post it up to see if it is you.
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And then after climbing we’d go out on desert roads and I’d teach her to drive.
Everytime I'm out deep on a forest service road that's all I can think about. But desert's smarter-fewer dropoffs and fewer things to hit.
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The tags on the windows were red.
;)
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They were orange. When will the lies end Brad....
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They were orange. When will the lies end Brad....
Kinda young for LSD flashbacks aren’t you? And please, continue with Mister Young.
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And please, continue with Mister Young.
I thought it was Your Highness or Your Majesty :lol: :ciappa: :out: :prrr:
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My staff calls me “Emperor.” He could also stick with that.
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Yes - thanks to people like this they are shutting the east side down as of today (starts tomorrow Sunday the 30th).
According to the Pinns facebook page, only people with verifiable campground reservations will be allowed past the intersection of hwy 25 and 146 (the east entrance). You must present your reservation receipt to gain access. No cars will be allowed past the campground road.
The west entrance will remain open - for now...
What a madhouse!!
It is high peaks season....
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What a madhouse!!
It is high peaks season....
The last line of the announcement on Pinnacles Facebook page;
Additional facilities and areas may close within Pinnacles National Park at any time for the health and safety of park visitors.
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My staff calls me “Emperor.” He could also stick with that.
Only if you work clothed.
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seriously, don't folks have better places to go, like LA???
Pinnacles what?? No, go to LA or Skiing, yeah go skiing.
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Only if you work clothed.
Funny Waldo!
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Waldo got to enjoy Prune Pinnacle today.
I couldn't stick around long enough to take pics of him - had to go thrash up the chimneys on Proclamation Pinnacle (front side) with climberdude.
The dude abides :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :smilewinkgrin:
Happy New Year mudders :blahblah: :guitar: :arf:
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Any increase in traffic on the west side with the east side being closed (to everyone but campers)? It was wild on the east side yesterday. The lightest traffic day I have seen on a Sunday. The "man" was in full force at the entrance not letting people in.
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Any increase in traffic on the west side with the east side being closed (to everyone but campers)? It was wild on the east side yesterday. The lightest traffic day I have seen on a Sunday. The "man" was in full force at the entrance not letting people in.
Plenty of people there. Unfortunately people were still taking advantage of and abusing the situation. A couple was walking their dog along the Steep and Narrow and I heard them talking about how they were getting away with it. Brad read them the riot act. There were about 10 cars parked along the sides of the final part of the road right before the lower parking lot. There was one obvious streamer of teepee strewn in front of the bathroom. I guess they brought their own but couldn't be bothered to dispose of it properly. I saw multiple places along the trail with teepee or other paper products. We talked to a lot of nice folks on the trails but there were still a few bad apples or just people behaving badly. We'll take a trash picker and a bag next time out.
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...We'll take a trash picker and a bag next time out.
And I'm taking a cattle-prod. Maybe a f#$&ng taser.
I hear that Joshua Tree is even worse. To the point of people literally driving off the highway into the roadless desert.
Maybe climate change is good. If it wipes out most of this scourge called (loosely) "humanity."
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Only if you work clothed.
Waldo got to enjoy Prune Pinnacle today.
Waldo "enjoyed" Prune with a fully clothed Brad (and other friends). Actually, considering those arctic winds, maybe the phrase should be a fully, fully, fully clothed Brad.
Wonderful day. But it seemed like I just couldn't get warm!
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But it seemed like I just couldn't get warm!
Maybe we never got warm because the high was only 53 (at 2:30) and the wind was gusting to 30 mph. I turned up the heat when I got home and took a long hot shower to get warm.
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Waldo "enjoyed" Prune with a fully clothed Brad (and other friends). Actually, considering those arctic winds, maybe the phrase should be a fully, fully, fully clothed Brad.
Wonderful day. But it seemed like I just couldn't get warm!
The Emperor had clothes, but waldo lost the seat of his pants whilst butt-climbing Prune's summit ridge. Pants be damned! I'm always happy to demonstrate an elegant climbing technique to new climbers, however.
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The Emperor had clothes, but the Waldo lost the seat of his pants whilst butt-climbing the Prune' summit ridge. Pants be damned! I'm always happy to demonstrate an elegant climbing technique to new climbers, however.
I was just reading through my FA log and was laughing when I saw that I did the lower traverse on my arse and then crawled along the summit ridge on my knees (with knee pads). Style points be damned. Whatever gets you there safely. NOAL taught me a thing or three about that.
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Hero shot - north summit of Proclamation Pinnacle. The dude is at the anchor. Blue is the new orange. I'm thinking of switching to camo :lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4880/31617552347_be01afd8f2_z.jpg)
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I was just reading through my FA log and was laughing when I saw that I did the lower traverse on my arse and then crawled along the summit ridge on my knees (with knee pads). Style points be damned. Whatever gets you there safely. NOAL taught me a thing or three about that.
Did I ever mention that a climbing partner of mine from the eighties wanted to set up a nude tyrollean between North and South Fingers? Never happened, though he still wants to do it. While aspiration lingers, the aesthetics of the project deteriorated long ago.
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Did I ever mention that a climbing partner of mine from the eighties wanted to set up a nude tyrollean between North and South Fingers? Never happened, though he still wants to do it. While aspiration lingers, the aesthetics of the project deteriorated long ago.
Oh my God!!
Not only the thought, but the damn coffee that just blew out my nose when I read that.
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Did I ever mention that a climbing partner of mine from the eighties wanted to set up a nude tyrollean between North and South Fingers? Never happened, though he still wants to do it. While aspiration lingers, the aesthetics of the project deteriorated long ago.
You might talk clink into doing it in a loin cloth but I don't think he'd go for the Full Monty :lol: :yikes:
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Right now I am not putting my high functioning assburgers on display. Check back in a few months.
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Right now I am not putting my high functioning assburgers on display. Check back in a few months.
Hold it, is this some sort of promise? Are we allowed to expect some weird kind of performance?
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Right now I am not putting my high functioning assburgers on display. Check back in a few months.
A MOM tyrollean?
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Are we allowed to expect some weird kind of performance?
Why would you expect anything else?
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My virgin eyes...Brad's shorts are short enough.
The thought of Clink in a loin cloth using a swami...well now I won't be able to sleep tonight.
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The "birth canal" on Proclamation's North Summit Regular Route. I turned around to take the pic relative to how I came up/out.
The rope is well left of the canal. Not sure how it flipped over there, since I came up from the other direction - underneath the bulge - then wriggle up into the roughly triangular, claustrophobic canal and pray you don't get stuck. :yikes:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7869/45718630065_fe46e20ee1_z.jpg)
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I am somewhere down at the end of the rope out of view. You know it is going to be narrow when JC advises take off the chalk bag and all items off of your harness.
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I am somewhere down at the end of the rope out of view. You know it is going to be narrow when JC advises take off the chalk bag and all items off of your harness.
I took that shot looking down while I was trying to catch my breath after being birthed.
I hadn't climbed up to clip the lone bolt yet. Still had some climbing to do to top out and figure out the belay situation.
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I took that shot looking down while I was trying to catch my breath after being birthed.
Since Climberdude was the first being you saw after "being birthed", I will totally get it if you start calling him Big Daddy.
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Waldo following Prune Pinnacle on this last New Year's Eve (photos by Caitlyn Rich):
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4868/45723506155_e0b9d75c67_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7871/45723504185_f5149b40f9_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4808/45723507695_cb2f495477_c.jpg)
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Ride 'em cowboy, Waldo!
I also had a Prunoscopy with Dr. Cook attending. He fortunately didn't flip the rope while I was doing the crux, so I wouldn't pendji if a hold broke. >:D Now that would keep you regular!
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if a hold broke....
Nothing to worry about. No holds are ever going to break off of that thing again.
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Waldo, the holds are all solid on that route - can't understand why you are riding the horse. :o :o
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Ride 'em cowboy, Waldo!
I also had a Prunoscopy with Dr. Cook attending. He fortunately didn't flip the rope while I was doing the crux, so I wouldn't pendji if a hold broke. >:D Now that would keep you regular!
Just channeling my inner Eastwood. When in doubt, sit it out!
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yeehaw!
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I like the look on his face at the start of the ridge (pic 2). :ihih: :devildevil:
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I like the look on his face at the start of the ridge (pic 2). :ihih: :devildevil:
I admit I wasn't feeling the joy of the hills at that point and may not have lived up to the maxim: "Take only pictures; leave only footprints." Pictures were taken. Prints were left.
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I admit I wasn't feeling the joy of the hills at that point and may not have lived up to the maxim
Cochran said we hit a new low that day. :yesnod: :biggrin: :lol: :out:
We hit a new low.
Awful, ugly, and gross rock.
The worst route yet for me.
The consistency of dried diarrhea. When you hit rock bottom, chug a quart of prune juice and start digging.
A parade of shitfuckery.
The two square feet of drillable rock eight feet below the summit and the rappel were very good.
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We exposed a lot of mud the last few days. A different sort of quest.
Not the kind I particularly care to mess with.
This is what happens when your water supply line is galvanized steel, buried since 1963 and routed through 4 of your neighbor's yards. Pay the water company an exorbitant rate to relocate your water meter to your street and remove the old connections from the street behind you. Oh by the way - You are responsible for getting the line from the meter at the street to your house.
Kat takes a turn as we get closer to the end.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4888/46022285464_427d43ea79_z.jpg)
Done after 2 days of mud slinging. You can't see the 35 foot section down the front yard (under blue tarps). I would definitely rather drill bolts by hand in crud :idea: :incazzato:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7901/46022288474_50e16faecd_z.jpg)
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^^^
Wow. Textbook P.I.T.A.
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Pay the water company an exorbitant rate to relocate your water meter to your street and remove the old connections from the street behind you. Oh by the way - You are responsible for getting the line from the meter at the street to your house.
how much for the relocation on the meter? I used to work on a crew that did the connections between the main (tapping into a huge 36" main is something else!), and the meter, and painting the hydrants mostly. Can be fun laying pipe (no pipe jokes please)!
All copper from the meter to the house, yes?
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It's been 34 years. Jim started Escargot in 1985. Five trips over the years. He and we finished it today.
I'm pretty sure it's the longest span from start to finish of any route at Pinns. I'll post a write-up as soon as I can get my notes back to Ellen.
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With a 34 year wait, it's assumed really bad (climb quality)?
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With a 34 year wait, it's assumed really bad (climb quality)?
You'd love it.
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It's been 34 years. Jim started Escargot in 1985. Five trips over the years. He and we finished it today.
I'm pretty sure it's the longest span from start to finish of any route at Pinns.
Certainly done at a snails pace. Appropriate name. Congrats on finishing it.
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THAT is typical Santa Cruz engineering at it's finest!!
Try having to dig a new sewer line under your house...yeah just like the great escape.
We used to hit the water line all the time in the front yard growing up. We got good at fixing it.
Finally, mom ran a NEW water line from the street.....way deeper than the old one.
Now back to Santa Cruz engineering....dad's old outside shower had no drain since it was on a deck. maybe there was a some plastic and a drain pipe, I can't remember. I do remember out front on the side of the driveway was a funny green wet spot......
So the water did go somewhere.
I miss Santa Cruz and it's odd ball engineering.
Mr Munge, yeah the laying the pipe would be fun....not the trenching.
And what is Jim doing all the way at the Pinnacles? Must be retired or something.
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And what is Jim doing all the way at the Pinnacles? Must be retired or something.
or something -> it’s the BY factor
(actually it’s my annual get back in touch with my climbing roots trip)
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Jim, congratulations!
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(actually it’s my annual get back in touch with my climbing routes trip)
There, I fixed it for you.
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There's mud in them thar hills...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4904/32870370138_ea6f161a43_b.jpg)
yet, again, stuck on the Hill rather than Pinns (not that a gov shutdown will allow it anyways).
Good news is not going to be forking over double cost for propane going forward. Bad news, have to be there for the install. wtf?
Who charges 4.99gal for propane?
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Spent the day with Brad and Kat yesterday before the rain moves back in again.
The climbing and formation reminded me a bit of climberdudes routes on Paleface.
This route and the other two we did there will make a nice day out combined with Junction Rocks and Spasm.
There is now a fun 5.5, 5.6 and 5.7
Helped with some guidebook work up at Generation Gap in the late afternoon.
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Awww miss that crud and those grades!
Kim & I will wear orange & khaki next time we r out with you guys hahaha
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Munge, Shouldn't you be using that thing to approach climbs. You can ride to the base, climb all day, then ride out.
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Awww miss that crud and those grades!
Kim & I will wear orange & khaki next time we r out with you guys hahaha
We have lots of fun, new stuff for you guys.
Should have gone back today but lacked the ambition or motivation (shoulda coulda woulda).
I'll track the precip closely so we can get back out over the next break.
Water was still flowing everywhere yesterday and some of the slopes were absolute mush!
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I had the pleasure yesterday of belaying J.C. on his lead of a very physical and sustained chimney route. It obviously challenged him, but he went for it, kept his cool and pulled it off.
I imagine he's got a few battle scars ;D
And I suspect that now, over 24 hours after the fact, he might be seeing the fun in the ascent (is that second or third level fun?).
Excellent effort John. Glad I was part of it.
I still haven't finished unpacking and my camera is buried. I'll get to it eventually and post at least a summit photo.
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Cheers JC, for successfull squeezing.
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I had the pleasure yesterday of belaying J.C. on his lead of a very physical and sustained chimney route. It obviously challenged him, but he went for it, kept his cool and pulled it off.
I imagine he's got a few battle scars ;D
And I suspect that now, over 24 hours after the fact, he might be seeing the fun in the ascent (is that second or third level fun?).
Excellent effort John. Glad I was part of it.
I still haven't finished unpacking and my camera is buried. I'll get to it eventually and post at least a summit photo.
Thanks Brad.
And thanks to KC for getting some shots. I had a hard time choosing but I think this was the best one.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7886/33552323428_6976187a96_z.jpg)
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Any gear to protect that wyde maw?
Nice!
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Any gear to protect that wyde maw?
Nice!
I got in a #6 at a narrowing fairly low (high reach) and then bumped it up after I started groveling.
Look at the pic again and you can see an up and right diagonal crack about 2 feet above my head. I got in a really good 2 inch cam there (whew!), took a rest (on a stance) and then dove into the squeeze again. There is more pro higher. I managed to get a #1, #5 and #4 in up there. The climbing up higher is easier but it was still nice to get more stuff in and get it off my rack.
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I got in a #6 at a narrowing fairly low (high reach) and then bumped it up after I started groveling.
Look at the pic again and you can see an up and right diagonal crack about 2 feet above my head. I got in a really good 2 inch cam there (whew!), took a rest and then dove in again. There is more pro higher. I managed to get a #1, #5 and #4 in up there. The climbing up higher is easier but it was still nice to get more stuff in and get it off my rack.
It sounds wrong when you say you took a "rest" after you got a piece in. You caught your breath might be a better way to describe it (never weighted any piece, no flaws in his ascent).
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It sounds wrong when you say you took a "rest" after you got a piece in. You caught your breath might be a better way to describe it (never weighted any piece, no flaws in his ascent).
I figured you'd chime in and say that you had to carry all that gear when you followed!
The start up the bottom of the slot has a thick pine needle covering, allowing the follower to ditch the #6 to a pillow soft landing :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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Got down to the east side today, even though I am still pretty damn sore.
Got two anchors replaced and bagged a new summit.
It was evidently too cool and overcast for the wildflowers to open up.
Orange poppies were closed on the way in and still clammed up on the way out.
Time for more rain. :madmax: :madman: :incazzato: :crying:
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We saw Mud and NOAL yesterday. :lol: :arf:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33737111158_5dae0751d4_z.jpg)
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I look so damn good in black.
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“Did you hear? He is coming back...maybe we will get him this time?”
“He is being sneaky by not driving that orange car.”
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Climbed another of Gavin's nice routes at Spikes Peak yesterday - Bacon Bits 5.8**.
Cool route - literally and figuratively.
Still need to refurbish Little Javelina and get on that - as well as Dances With Warthogs :yesnod: :smilewinkgrin: :thumbup:
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Spoof Proof Roof saw a second ascent today.
Amber took her first leader fall on Get a Grip.
Jesse and his mom hiked to the Frog with Kim.
Kim drank from the spigot back at the picnic tables.
We gave a couple girls from New Zealand a ride to the Visitor center.
I got a tick bite (Kat just got done digging the head out with a needle).
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Not a bit surprised that the tick died.
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Did the tick have Poison Oak on it? Never know.
I got one once, didn't notice until after I had dropped Mr Mud off. Not fun trying by you-self.
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Ticks are going to be raging!
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Say Munge aren’t the ticks attracted to bright colors?
Like orange?
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Say Munge aren’t the ticks attracted to bright colors?
Like orange?
Yeah.
Or, in your case, stark white.
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Wear green. Blend. Ticks can’t see you.
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F4 is on a roll.
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A squirrel gets his nut every once in a while.
Mungie loves ticks
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A squirrel gets his nut every once in a while.
Mungie loves ticks
You're confused.
Munge loves you. But he thinks you're a tick.
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But he thinks you're a tick.
I am...I get under his skin and drink all his beer.
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Bud Light Lyme?
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Fight the real fight! Scurvy!
Now brewed with real lime peels!
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Bud Light Lyme?
Pretty clever for a knuckle-dragging mud groper.
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Hey i resemble that comment!
Face it Munge they just don’t understand!!
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Now brewed with real lime peels!
That got a good laugh ;D
Is this true?
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Pretty clever for a knuckle-dragging mud groper.
Look who is talking, the Neanderthals would have worshiped you as a god.
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Hey T O Double D - how did you like Here's Mud in Your Eye?
I think we saw you on Summer of Mud too :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
Just spent 4 days at Pinns with some pretty glorious temps.
Climbed a bunch, hung out with lots of cool folks and did an FA with Brad today.
Pretty sweet :biggrin: :ihih:
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Here's a couple shots from yesterday. It was windy and overcast in the morning while we were working - shivering in a T-shirt and sweatshirt at Pinnacles - not likely to last!
Brad drilled bolt 1 and set me up very nicely for the bolt 2 stance
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47749785391_6c791081cd_z.jpg)
Me drilling bolt 2
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46960476144_7e5a5939b8_z.jpg)
Me on the summit, Brad at the base. 5.8, no stars. Fun day. Good adventure. :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :arf:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40783345233_e75a265238_z.jpg)
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Hey T O Double D - how did you like Here's Mud in Your Eye?
I think we saw you on Summer of Mud too :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
Just spent 4 days at Pinns with some pretty glorious temps.
Climbed a bunch, hung out with lots of cool folks and did an FA with Brad today.
Pretty sweet :biggrin: :ihih:
Ha! That was my first day out there that I actually got to climb real routes. Mud in your Eye was my fav of the day, but we didn’t have time to climb much. I ended up soling stupid things, while Bee patiently coached a climber up Bathing Beuty. That one had a fun start, but we didn’t have any info and went left after the crux, instead of right. Squeaky Clean was a rad 5.6! Easy, but steep. Broke a hold, and almost my ankle, before the first bolt of Hollywood Stars. Last was Mud Diamond, which looked way worse than it turned out to be. It was a cruiser and so fun!
Good stuff out there. Thanks for putting in the work and bolts! Glad y’all had fun too!
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Ha! That was my first day out there that I actually got to climb real routes.
Sweet. Sounds like you had fun. Hollywood Stars is a bit stout for the grade and there is definitely loose stuff on there. Brad broke a hold after the crux when he free soloed it originally (he added the bolt after) - and luckily did not fall. Maybe print out the routes next time to maximize your fun? - still lots of good stuff out there and shady too on hot days. Here's mud in your eye :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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I’m a Luddite and don’t have a printer, besides, where would the adventure come from if we actually knew what we were climbing!? ;D
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I’m a Luddite and don’t have a printer, besides, where would the adventure come from if we actually knew what we were climbing!? ;D
There is also this thing called pen and paper :lol:
I ended up soling stupid things, while Bee patiently coached a climber up Bathing Beuty. That one had a fun start, but we didn’t have any info and went left after the crux, instead of right.
We go to great pains to write accurate descriptions of the routes. Can't tell you how many hours and days I have spent with Brad confirming routes, writing, proofing, etc.
I checked BB just for fun - The arete is mentioned thrice - would have kept you from going left into unclimbed/untested territory. :yikes: You must have finished on Mud Bath
Bathing Beauty 5.9 ** Start on a 20 foot high, steep section of rock protected by two bolts (this section includes the route’s short crux). Good rock leads to a blunt arete on the right. Move around this arete before continuing straight up to a two-bolt anchor 80 feet from the ground. There are seven lead bolts total. Unfortunately, the rock quality on this route diminishes on the right side of the arete.
I'm just glad you got back out there and got to climb some fun stuff. :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
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I’m a Luddite and don’t have a printer, besides, where would the adventure come from if we actually knew what we were climbing!? ;D
I forgot you climb with Atomizer :lol:
You got extra points in my book for climbing Rock Bottom :yesnod:
Most of the routes at Crud and Mud are more about having fun with a few surprises and some have spice. Try leading Mudster's Ball for a thrill or hop on Call of the Crud if you want something less serious. Summer of Mud has some adventure and is super easy. It's 4:20 Dude has its moments too. Ashes the Mud and I goes from well protected to not when it joins the old 4th Class route (upgraded to 5.2).
If you really want some adventure, head up and do the three routes at Doodlin' Dody and the three at Forgotten Sister.
The Toes and Dionysian Tower are pretty wild too.
Rubble Wall has some of the scariest old routes I've done but they don't make Brad's scary list (hmmmm).
The new routes up there turned out really nice too.
The New World has some cool routes and summits.
The list goes on...
You should come out with us sometime... :frown2: :yesnod: :idea:
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We go to great pains to write accurate descriptions of the routes. Can't tell you how many hours and days I have spent with Brad confirming routes, writing, proofing, etc
"We" he says.
Although the new routes list has my name on it, both J.C. and K.C. spend huge amounts of time proofreading for typos, and checking for accuracy and simplicity. And not just on that list; they've been doing the same for the new guidebook texts.
Same thing as to field-checking. Ridiculous really. It almost makes me think that they need to get a life.
Oh. Well, I've got a life, the statement doesn't apply to me (somehow).
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^^^
Huge amounts (I think they enjoy doing such things).
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You forgot to mention how much time I spend writing descriptions for the new routes I establish, so you can forget to bring them when we go to field check. Add in more time and frustration for hand-wringing and pulling out hair :yesnod: :incazzato: :lol:
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You forgot to mention how much time I spend writing descriptions for the new routes I establish, so you can forget to bring them when we go to field check. Add in more time and frustration for hand-wringing and pulling out hair :yesnod: :incazzato: :lol:
You know Mike, it really irritates me when you accuse me of forgetting things.
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Kat and I returned to the Forgotten Sister yesterday to climb Initiation Fees and Uber the Goober. We climbed Chute the Moon on Monday. Chute the Moon can be approached from below via a huge, ant-covered log (I've never seen so many ants!) and then a tenuous scramble on loose, mossy rock above poison oak. :yikes: We opted to rap into the route and climb back out. There is a ton of PO about 3 feet back from the base but there is also a tree that catches the rope when it is dropped from the anchor. We carefully reeled in the rope after it was dropped from the anchor. You need a third partner (thanks Brad!) or a chimp (Hi NOAL!) to do it this way. The climb has decent stances for placing gear, some exposure when moving past the terminus of the crack, good rock and nice length.
Initiation Fees is in your face at the start (past the fixed pin) and then goes through some of the longest runouts I've ever done.
The last bolt is hard to see from below. I kept looking along the cleanest, nicest-looking chute and finally saw the whiteish hanger on the left wall above me when I was almost in a position to clip it. Expect to be fighting rope drag toward the exit, even if you use long runners on everything but the fixed pin and the last bolt. The exit is cool and most of the rock is very good.
Uber the Goober is worth doing while you are there but not nearly as good as Initiation Fees and also very runout.
Here is a picture looking down 130 feet to Kat at the start of Uber the Goober. The rope is hung on a knob well above the 3rd bolt, even though I noticed it on the way up and flipped it. What a drag :lol: :out:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47765569961_bbe97aae73_z.jpg)
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Which 2bit knuckle heads put up that route.
We can add a few bolts...
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Lots of crunchy stuff on that rock.
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Lots of crunchy stuff on that rock.
Funny you should say that. I can still hear the echo of the lichen crunching under my feet on Uber the Goober.
Some crunchy rock on Initiation Fees but plenty of good stuff too.
Did you get a chimp yet? :biggrin: :thumbup:
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Some crunchy rock on Initiation Fees but plenty of good stuff too.
I just remember a butt load of lichen.
Did you get a chimp yet?
Do they eat lichen?
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I just remember a butt load of lichen.
Do they eat lichen?
I think Mud does :lol:
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You forgot to mention how much time I spend writing descriptions for the new routes I establish, so you can forget to bring them when we go to field check. Add in more time and frustration for hand-wringing and pulling out hair :yesnod: :incazzato: :lol:
I wondered why I went bald. It must have been Brad.
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I have some hangers to paint pink. We can fix up the route....3-4 should do fine.
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I think Mud does
Dunno bout that but we did eat some chex mix with moss in it one time. Pretty good.
We can fix up the route
It's kinda of like climbing a 70's porno flick. Very natural and un groomed.
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It's kinda of like climbing a 70's porno flick. Very natural and un groomed.
Holy, holy crap... I'm still trying to anywise this one. And I think I will be for a long time.
:o ::)
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I can't decide which of Noal's comments is funnier
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I had a moss and dirt appetizer today for lunch followed by more of the same for the main course and again for dessert.
After the Sierra Club I needed a broom or a leaf blower and now a shower! :lol:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/1922/43211300290_40c03d2439_z.jpg)
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Do you use that for grooming?
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There is also this thing called pen and paper :lol:
We go to great pains to write accurate descriptions of the routes. Can't tell you how many hours and days I have spent with Brad confirming routes, writing, proofing, etc.
I checked BB just for fun - The arete is mentioned thrice - would have kept you from going left into unclimbed/untested territory. :yikes: You must have finished on Mud Bath
Bathing Beauty 5.9 ** Start on a 20 foot high, steep section of rock protected by two bolts (this section includes the route’s short crux). Good rock leads to a blunt arete on the right. Move around this arete before continuing straight up to a two-bolt anchor 80 feet from the ground. There are seven lead bolts total. Unfortunately, the rock quality on this route diminishes on the right side of the arete.
I'm just glad you got back out there and got to climb some fun stuff. :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
I’m making it sound a bit more lackadaisical than the reality. I actually had the new routes page on my phone for a bit, but it somehow vanished when we got out there. I’ve also been there a few times on solo scouting missions, so I had a pretty good idea of what was what and kept telling her to go right but she focused on the bolt she could see.
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kept telling her to go right but she focused on the bolt she could see.
I know someone like that. I was taught that when in doubt, follow the line of least resistance.
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Do you use that for grooming?
Only in the nether regions.
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I’m making it sound a bit more lackadaisical than the reality.
I felt like that hanging on my lazy daisy yesterday while drilling.
Gotta give you grief dude - I mean...that's what we do on here right? :yesnod: :thumbup: :smilewinkgrin: :devildevil:
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Holy, holy crap... I'm still trying to anywise this one. And I think I will be for a long time.
:o ::)
Supposedly this word has been around since the 13th century but this is the first time I have ever heard of it, much less seen anyone use it in a sentence.
Surrounded by weirdos and freaks! :yesnod: :biggrin: :lol: :prrr:
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[ Invalid YouTube link ]
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Great song. Studio version is sweet with the sharp guitar and base.
The live non produced version the guitar isn’t as sharp, but that’s live (recordings).
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^^^^^
Either he is out climbing or is ignoring me...as is often the case.
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Supposedly this word has been around since the 13th century but this is the first time I have ever heard of it, much less seen anyone use it in a sentence.
clink stopped by yesterday evening and said he had never heard of it either.
Maybe it will come up on Jeopardy and knock the current champ off his still-rising pedestal.
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Yes, I stopped by and was informed of a possible upcoming snippet by KC.
:o
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We met two nice young climber couples on the west side today - Lance and Savannah and Trevor and Maggie. They were headed out separately to climb Costanoan and Old Original respectively.
While I was working today, the weirdest thing happened. I kept hearing a sound that sounded like someone shaking out a sheet on the cliff above me. It was a loud, flapping sound that kept repeating. I saw no birds and there were no other climbers. It happened a few times and then again later. The last time it happened, I was on easy ground, not moving and listening intently. I looked around and saw some long grass moving in waves and swirling. The next thing I knew, a small cyclone spun past me and across the face of the cliff. I have seen dust devils before but never at Pinns and never anything like this. Very cool :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
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Had a close encounter with number 92 today while Gavin and I were out questing for mud.
I was leading and then belaying Gavin up the route and I could hear some commotion from above.
It was a flapping sound again.
It wasn't windy though - in fact it was one of the foggiest days I have ever seen - or more appropriately haven't seen.
When we got back up to the main summit, number 92 was up there and had been trying his best to rummage through our packs.
He threw my bolt bag a few feet, knocked Gavin's water bottle from his pack, rolled my pack a few feet from where I left it and took a couple chunks out of Gavin's pack. Luckily we had put almost everything in our packs and zipped them up.
Good thing Brad's pack wasn't up there - there would have been nothing left but a few patches and some mounds of thread :lol: :arf: :ciappa:
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Had a close encounter with number 92 today while Gavin and I were out questing for mud.
I was leading and then belaying Gavin up the route and I could hear some commotion from above.
It was a flapping sound again.
It wasn't windy though - in fact it was one of the foggiest days I have ever seen - or more appropriately haven't seen.
When we got back up to the main summit, number 92 was up there and had been trying his best to rummage through our packs.
He threw my bolt bag a few feet, knocked Gavin's water bottle from his pack, rolled my pack a few feet from where I left it and took a couple chunks out of Gavin's pack. Luckily we had put almost everything in our packs and zipped them up.
So the two of you are harassing a federally endangered species? That doesn't look good (and yes, teaching the bird to be a delinquent is harassment over the long term).
Good thing Brad's pack wasn't up there - there would have been nothing left but a few patches and some mounds of thread :lol: :arf: :ciappa:
Wow, that's a real low shot. And that pack was finally, finally coming around to like you.
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The condor in question - 692 - has been acting like a pest for some weeks now. I tried to haze him away from us with loud clapping and he was unfazed.
A couple weeks ago 692 picked up a visitor's trekking pole in the High Peaks and threw it downslope below the Scout Peak outhouse!
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If Gavin is putting up new routes, who is watching the birds?
Who is watching who?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47765971762_084808dc33_z.jpg)
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The condor in question - 692 - has been acting like a pest for some weeks now. I tried to haze him away from us with loud clapping and he was unfazed.
A couple weeks ago 692 picked up a visitor's trekking pole in the High Peaks and threw it downslope below the Scout Peak outhouse!
I dub thee Sir Charles (Chuck for short) :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
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Happy 5.10 day.
I got a 5.9 yesterday and a hard to rate 7 on the 7th.
I'll leave the rest to you mudders that pull down (or stand up) harder than me :lol:
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I think I like 692
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I dub thee Sir Charles (Chuck for short) :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
Nope, The Mad Mudder
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Nope, The Mad Mudder
I think your cobble is cracked :biggrin:
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Questing for mud with an overnight stay just became a bit more expensive.
Single sites in the campground are now $30 (up from $23).
Still cheaper than the current price of gas from our place if we split a site with someone else. :yesnod: :ihih:
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Jackasses!!!
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I think I like 692
He definitely let us know who is boss. We tried to tell him we were only there for the choss. :redface:
He's one of Little Stinker's boyfriends. Must be taking lessons :idea:
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692 sounds like a cool bird.
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Yeah J.C. I threaten to go down and camp every other weekend.
So the boys can’t use their computers!!
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sounds like a good plan
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I'm having breakfast at the Cooks. John made me a bowl of his "Preemptive Strike Oatmeal", it will keep you regular next week today.
:)
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5:40am? Little later in the morning for pinnacles.
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I'm having breakfast at the Cooks. John made me a bowl of his "Preemptive Strike Oatmeal", it will keep you regular next week today.
:)
Buahaha
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New route yesterday - Apostrophe 5.3R
One hidden bolt. Without the bolt, the route would be 5.3X
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47858992771_2dbb4f730a_z.jpg)
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Busy day yesterday (shocking eh?) but the weather was glorious.
We talked to a bunch of climbers in the west side parking lot and a few in the High Peaks.
We finished the route I started on Thursday. It turned out decent.
Sore and resting today.
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Doesn't anyone talk about climbing at Pinns anymore?
I know clink hasn't been on the crud since we did Ribbit and Croak.
What's everybody else's excuse? :lol:
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Doesn't anyone talk about climbing at Pinns anymore?
I know clink hasn't been on the crud since we did Ribbit and Croak.
What's everybody else's excuse? :lol:
Excuses.
- I'm old;
- I live too far away;
- I'm tired of the drive (for this season);
- I'm really into my game right now;
- Gavin makes me climb too hard without a warmup;
- You and Kat make me do extreme and obscure things;
- I'm catching up on chainsawing and brushwork that I let go all season;
- I'm ugly;
- It's past Pinnacles season (in spite of what Mother N is seeming to try to say).
Love you. Mean it.
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Sled season isn't over.
:)
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Sled season isn't over.
:)
Who's got control of the website? Can we change his name to "Mungemobiler?" GAWWWD, the single lamest excuse EVER.
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Well brother Munge has a point as there is still a lot of snow.
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the single lamest excuse EVER.
:)
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Mowed the yard
Drove people around
Rototiller the beds
laundry
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Work
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Only one thing to say... Did or did it not snow all the way down to miwuk? ...again...
Lol
Crazy year. Wonderful fun!
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I guess I won't expect to see any of you the next few days then.
Bound for crud... :arf: :ihih:
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I'll be out briefly on Thursday or Friday - West Side - with the grandson of Bill (Bad Bolts) Hunt. I plan to touch some very familiar bases with him.
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The excuse for almost all of the "season" was rain. Now that it isn't raining my mind goes to higher elevations...
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Now that it isn't raining my mind goes to higher elevations...
Where is is raining....
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The excuse for almost all of the "season" was rain. Now that it isn't raining my mind goes to higher elevations...
Well la dee da :rolleyes: :yesnod: :out: :ciappa:
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Lol, Cook
Waldo, have fun!
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Where it is raining....
Oh the irony
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WTF? Are folks out climbing?
Is the snow melting up there?
Will Mr. Mud find his right footed shoes?
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Pass opened at 2:00 pm today.
La tee da,
M
;)
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Pass opened at 2:00 pm today.
Get up there and piss on the snow to melt it...
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Crossover post.
Just spent the last 3 days pounding on and getting pummeled by crud. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :lol:
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Invalid without pictures....
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Invalid without pictures....
Kat and I spent the day at Peace of Heaven on Wednesday.
The flies were awful.
The climb wasn't too bad and now it is completely rebolted.
Both of the lead bolts were in some nasty, crumbly recesses that made it especially difficult to get the tuning fork under the star dryvin nails. I had to do significant amounts of carving down and around both bolt locations to get the old stuff out, create proper surfaces for the replacements and allow the draws to hang correctly. The nail on the first lead bolt was under-driven but the hanger was tight and both nails were unusually difficult to extract (surprising given the lousy rock quality). It was a similar situation on the summit with the old, single-bolt anchor. I could write a book about all the things I have learned rebolting.
Here is a composite of photos showing in clockwise order the old first bolt (straight on), from the side (to show the protruding nail), the replacement bolt and the replacement anchor with chains. The second replacement lead bolt is not shown but is every bit as pretty as the first.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47979617638_74983edbb2_z.jpg)
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Gorgeous!
Bad flies, but how about the heat?
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Gorgeous!
Bad flies, but how about the heat?
Thanks. It took all day.
Temps weren't bad (perfect for flies) - mid 70's Wednesday and mid 80's Thursday and yesterday.
Nice and cool at night. A bit noisy in camp Wednesday night but quiet Thursday.
Nice breezes both day and night.
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Spontaneous Generation
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Spontaneous Generation
You need to get back to roots dude.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4441/36397088083_769c85b2d6_z.jpg)
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Frick and Frack?
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Frick and Frack?
Meanderthal and Bill Bored
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Just about got my arse handed to me on Flames Face today.
I thought I was going to fall off two or three times and the falls would not have been pretty.
Sustained, pumpy, crimpy and not well protected through the hard parts. Multiple cushy stances in the runouts with no bolts.
It's been a while since I rebolted it and I figured today was the day.
I can see why that person Zay observed took that huge whipper.
You could take a 50 to 60 foot fall (maybe more) getting to the anchor from the last bolt.
I was also able to go over and confirm that the upper mid-anchor on Lichen to Lead was replaced at some unknown date.
Carbon 5 pc with Fixe hangers (Mucci's work maybe?). With the bolts I replaced recently, that route is in fine shape from bottom to top now.
I also discovered that it is more fun to climb into the humongous sling knobs on the last part of that climb from the new route I put up on Mother's Day - starting from the Where the Sun Don't Shine anchor.
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Sounds like fun.
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Sounds like fun.
Yeah, especially the "just about" part.
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Sounds like fun.
In a sick, masochistic sort of way. Good route to rec to someone you don't like :yesnod: :thumbup: :devildevil:
Yeah, especially the "just about" part.
If I hadn't been able to find some stances to rest after making the dicier moves, I would have been off for sure.
Forearms were flamed out.
Bolting pattern is very inconsistent - goes from crazy to chicken fries.
I didn't replace bolt 3 when I rebolted, since it looked off route and unnecessary (really close height-wise to 4).
I decided to wait and see how it was on lead.
I was so focused on getting to bolt 4 before I completely flamed out that I didn't even see the old bolt (it's that far off the natural line). It is too far left (looks off route on the topo), like whoever had the bolt bag tried to go that way and then changed their mind (the rock out that way looked awful when I was rebolting). Bolts 4 and 5 are also really close together. Bolt 6 resumes the wide spacing and then the runout to the anchor.
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In a sick, masochistic sort of way.
AKA type II fun.
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AKA type II fun.
Is there level III fun?
Even looking back months from now or even years I seriously doubt I will remember this one as fun.
Just another - "glad I don't ever have to do that again" - a shame really - but so typical of so many Pinnacles routes :incazzato:
On the plus side - the FA party never did another route. :thumbup: :biggrin:
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What date was the FA done?
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What date was the FA done?
February 1985
Robin Riner and Chuck Coon
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What date was the FA done?
And which were the FA party wearing Boxers or Breifs?
Munge, I mean a friend needs to know.
Also what position was the moon in? Waxing or Waning?
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Is there level III fun?
I am only familiar with type 1 and 2
Type one is: We went car camping in Yosemite. We cooked some burgers, drank some beers, looked at some rocks while eating ice cream, rode that tourist green trailer thingy and were back at work totally rested on Monday. Boy was that fun!
Type two is: Remember that time we backpacked 125 miles in five days in a record snow year? Remember on the 4th day when my feet were totally macerated and my toenails fell off. It hurt to walk for weeks! Man that was so much fun! I can't wait to do it again!
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Type III, do we even want to know?
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Type II are routes are my favorites. We need more of this type. Who remembers the perfect route. Yeah, it might be absolutely fantastic, but what was there to be remembered.
Type II routes forever.
So I am starting a new line up here. It shares the start with another route. I humped all my crap up there, 50 feet away from the start a dozen cantaloupe sized rocks come bounding down the corner from up high so I run off to the left to avoid the excitement. Should I start a new line out left under an over hang so I can play it safe? The new line would have a cool start and some good climbing. I guess next time I will pack the helmet.
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Ticks up here... AAACCcckkkkk
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Here too. After I came home from running @ laurelwood last night I was chopping some vegetables for dinner. Looked down at chopping board and noticed two ticks. Must've fell out my hair or something. They got minced.
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Here too. After I came home from running @ laurelwood last night I was chopping some vegetables for dinner. Looked down at chopping board and noticed two ticks. Must've fell out my hair or something. They got minced.
I prefer my ticks on the half shell.
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Yeah, I kinda like mine in someone else ;D
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Yeah, I kinda like mine in someone else ;D
So...Cannibal style. I think that is on the secret menu at In-N-Out.
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I see everybody took a break around 4:20...dude...
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Speaking of tics, Noal is a lunatic, Mud is a fellow escapee, and speaking of type ll they are two of a type that may be diagnosable.
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^^^
Pot/kettle in all described categories.
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I am totally normal. Everybody else is crazy.
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I am totally normal. Everybody else is crazy.
Holy crap, you're becoming Mr Mud. With him the saying is more like "my ratings are just right, everyone else is soft." I can just about imitate his voice while I say it.
The only clear conclusion from this conversation is that it is I that is surrounded by freaks.
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Abinormal, was the,donors brain in young Frankenstein. Fitting for this crowd.
I’ll never forget picking up mr mud one morning, the look in his eyes!!!
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That was the look of a lack of caffeine, or perhaps, too much.
So Noal, that is the secret in the secret sauce?!
The other day I had a bit of a stiff neck, then I realized I had two ticks imbedded the in the back of my skull. I hate it when that happens.
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So Noal, that is the secret in the secret sauce?!
That would be cool, but as always the secret in secret sauces (and pastries) is usually.........butter or heavy cream.
I realized I had two ticks imbedded the in the back of my skull. I hate it when that happens
How did you remove them? Fire? Curling iron?
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The only clear conclusion from this conversation is that it is I that is surrounded by freaks.
:D
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That would be cool, but as always the secret in secret sauces (and pastries) is usually.........butter or heavy cream.
How did you remove them? Fire? Curling iron?
I was able to get a hold of them and gently pull until they let go.
Heavy cream is also the key to sultry coffee.
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Mungie is Mr tick man!
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After 100's of times walking past it, I finally led Heffalump today.
Cool climb - definitely star worthy in my book. Old school cool as NOAL once said.
It protects well and has;
good rock
fun, interesting and thoughtful movement
cool holds
an adventure factor
history
I'd climb it again and Kat liked it too! :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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surprisingly good.
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Pinnacles, the land of the freaks and the home of the brave.
Brad, you are one of the freakier freaks. Everyone here has done something that the rest would be I'll advised to repeat.
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Clink all of my climbs are 4 scarred
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Everyone here has done something that the rest would be I'll advised to repeat.
Of the best company I've ever kept.
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True there Mungie old pal, who corrupted me with a visit to the high peaks.
And introduced me to the bearded guy with glasses.
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Everyone here has done something that the rest would be I'll advised to repeat.
Nope, I say go for it.
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Got two climbs mostly done above Deadman Curves today (at 8,500 feet - God I'd forgotten how gorgeous the Sierra is).
They share a start. Gonna call them "Jan" and "Dean."
I hope more of you than just Mr Cultural Attache get that one.
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Watergate theme?
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I will need to buy more than a clue
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I will need to buy more than a clue
He's one clue for free:
"I was cruisin' in my Stingray late one night
When an XKE pulled up on the right
He rolled down the window of his shiny new Jag
And challenged me then and there to a drag
I said "You're on buddy -- my mill's running fine
Let's come off the line now at Sunset and Vine
But I'll go you one better, if you've got the nerve
Let's race all the way -- to Dead Man's Curve"
is no place to play
(Dead Man's Curve) you'd best keep away
(Dead Man's Curve) I can hear 'em say
"Won't come back from Dead Man's Curve"
The street was deserted late Friday night
We were buggin' each other while we sat out the light
We both popped the clutch when the light turned green
You shoulda heard the whine from my screamin' machine!"
If you don't get it now I'll have to sing it for you.
Actually, maybe I'll have to sing it for you. Although J.C. may be the only one who can get the name thing effortlessly, he'll also want to kill me for posting about a place other than Pinns on this thread.
Which reminds me: if you guys don't hear from me in a while, you know where to start looking....
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No body.
No crime.
Had a fabulous day with Gavin today.
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surprisingly good.
Couldn't agree more :biggrin:
Above the first couple cruxes in the Heffalump chimney section.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48024984631_e25b602d34_z.jpg)
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Had a fabulous day with Gavin today.
A bit sore today after hanging on a knob to drill a difficult bolt and set Gavin up - again :ihih:
I managed to set him up last time too :devildevil:
We got past the hardest section yesterday. Can't wait to get back out there!
On a side note, the flies seemed a bit less yesterday.
One did manage to land on my ankle and crawl up my pant leg (unbeknownst at first to me).
I think it was actually flying around a little in there - a very weird sensation.
With triple digits approaching again, maybe they will be hurried toward the end of their life cycle.
Wait...gotta go...I think I smell shoo fly pie :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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With triple digits approaching again, maybe they will be hurried toward the end of their life cycle.
With temps like that I wonder whether you're talking about you, or the flies?
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clink - this bump is for you! :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :arf:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4441/36397088083_769c85b2d6_z.jpg)
Summit of Behemoth 6-4-17
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You 2 guys should wear matching shirts...
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Thanks for the pic and great memories of that one
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I'll have to sing it for you.
I get it, I get it , I get it
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I had a dream last night, part of it was that Fletcher led 40 days of Rain. He was explaining how difficult the moves were to get to the lip. After that it was pretty easy for him, the mantle etc. :)
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I had a dream last night, part of it was that Fletcher led 40 days of Rain. He was explaining how difficult the moves were to get to the lip. After that it was pretty easy for him, the mantle etc. :)
I bet you were hanging on his every word :out: :ciappa: :arf:
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40 days is easy, pull on the large holds....
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JC, after seeing your pic, I had to dig out my Richards and look. I first lumped the Heff on November 11th, 1977. I apparently found wired stoppers to be useful.
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Moves to the lip are not bad. It's the crumbly crimp after the mantel
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crumbly crimp
That's got to be a route name!
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Moves to the lip are not bad. It's the crumbly crimp after the mantel
I spent many years snatching crumbs, so I really have no interest in crimping them (or snatching any more of them).
For the aspiring dirt bag that lives at Pinnacles year round (in a van of course).
Crumb Bum
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I got a real treat last night after dinner at beano's house.
Jesse invited me for a short ride in his plane.
We took off from Watsonville and buzzed the fault line for a bit in the direction of Pinnacles (Quest for Mud).
The sun was just setting, so we turned toward Fremont peak and flew out to the big water over Elkhorn Slough.
There were some amazing drainage patterns exposed by low tide.
We came back up the coast with the sunset colors on our left and the beaches on our right.
We buzzed my house before turning back to the airport.
Super slick setup. My first time in a little plane.
I'll make sure I take a camera when we go up again. :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin: :arf:
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JC, after seeing your pic, I had to dig out my Richards and look. I first lumped the Heff on November 11th, 1977. I apparently found wired stoppers to be useful.
11-11-77, interesting date. I was riding my motorcycle in freezing temps to Frankfort on a temp job assembling large, modular file cabinets in the capitol building, still smoking and unbeknownst to me...developing a serious case of mononucleosis. But that is a different story...altogether...
There are lots of good gear placements. I really liked the offset aliens in the pin scars.
I was able to sew it up and protect the traverse (for my follower).
yellow alien x2, offset aliens (red/yellow, yellow/green, green,blue), 0.5, 1, 3(x2) camalots. A 3 tricam should also work in the horizontal on the traverse, instead of a second #3 camalot.
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Life is not possible without yellow aliens.
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Life is not possible without yellow aliens.
My favorite small cam :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
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Life is not possible without yellow aliens.
Rubbish. For many, many years just having friends was enough ::)
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Some friends get sticky!
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Some friends get sticky!
Especially in this weather. :rolleyes:
Or did you misspell?
Icky?
Prickly?
Picky?
Persnickety?
Panicky?
Tricky?
Plasticky?
Gimmicky?
Finnicky?
Frolicky?
Staticky?
Garlicky?
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Rubbish. For many, many years just having friends was enough ::)
Though some can be overly rigid.
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Though some can be overly rigid.
Excellent point.
One of my #1 friends is so rigid that climbing in the Sierra Nevada seems out of the question.
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some are too flexible
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And Squeaky....
Some never shave!!
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There are medications now for all of the above. We have come so far from when I started with nuts and a long dong.
The long dong was useful at meal prep as well.
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I started with nuts and a long dong.
omg the places I could go with this :lol:
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omg the places I could go with this :lol:
Lemme get this straight: you want to go places with Clink's Long Dong?
Mr Mud, is there any way I can get off of this site???
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Mr Mud, is there any way I can get off of this site???
Nope, it is like the Hotel California
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I started with nuts and a long dong.
omg the places I could go with this :lol:
clink probably thought he was setting me up. The devil ya know... :devildevil: :ihih:
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The long dong was useful at meal prep as well.
I had one once but have misplaced it.
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Mr Mud, is there any way I can get off of this site???
We need you Brad.
Otherwise Mr Mud will run amoke.
And JC will start Rap bolting.
Noal.....
How do I post up a Ytube link?
I want to post up the Monty Python's your no fun anymore/man turned into scotsman
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On the far left over the emoticons there is a YouTube tab.
Paste just the letters and numbers after the forward slash.
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Noal.....
How do I post up a Ytube link?
I want to post up the Monty Python's your no fun anymore/man turned into scotsman
Says the Mayor of Simpleton :lol: :ciappa:
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Do these boots make my butt look big?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48064714722_b43b548db7_z.jpg)
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Says the Mayor of Simpleton
I resemble that comment!!
That route looks nice, little bulge.
Hint: bump the left foot up a bit more.
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Hint: bump the left foot up a bit more.
I passed along the message and it looks like it is working!
Are the boots better now too? :idea: :out: :arf:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48064854067_236acd1d31_z.jpg)
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Nice pics! Second shot really looks like a trip to the proctologist is in order.
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Nice pics! Second shot really looks like a trip to the proctologist is in order.
Thanks dude. Kat was our "on the spot" photographer and even got some cool, short video clips.
I was waiting for someone to comment on those boots in the second one.
Looks like someone is all the way in (ouch!). Reminds me of one of your route names :lol:
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OMFG. I’m utterly, utterly surrounded by freaks.
(Although that was one of the best rejoinders ever.)
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I liked this one because of the shadow and position - as we were putting the finishing touches on the route :ihih:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48064819487_bfed8df915_z.jpg)
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Great pics
Your noggin makes your butt look small
:)
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On the far left over the emoticons there is a YouTube tab.
Paste just the letters and numbers after the forward slash.
Okay...I'll play. WARNING - this is 3 plus minutes you will never get back! :lol:
Here's a few minutes through the 5.8 bulge. It ends with me clipping the bolt to start up to the 5.9 bulge. :ihih:
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Nice job.
I like that photo with the bird. That bird looks big. Real big.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48064819487_bfed8df915_z.jpg)
Nice Pic
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Looks like some nice rock. How did the route turn out?
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Looks like some nice rock. How did the route turn out?
Really fun.
8 bolts in 95 feet with 3 distinct cruxes (7c, 8 and 9) over 3 bulges, followed by another 85 feet and 3 more bolts with some 5.5 and 5.6 climbing.
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Gavin in the 8 section
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48079821448_a2fa1514ba_z.jpg)
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Gotta give Gavin his props. The video stops after he clips bolt 7 in the 5.9 crux section. Those moves after reaching the joy knob are...well...money $$ :biggrin: :thumbup: :yesnod: :ihih: Go full screen :ihih:
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Cool!
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Today was a little toasty but Gavin and I went out anyway.
He eyeballed the line, set me up and graciously sent me up to top out the route.
It was all his fault.
Okay,,,okay I'll take some of the blame.
I set him up first.
Scapegoat 5.7*
Details later :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
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Yep, it was a fun day getting Scapegoat started and finished.
To be fair, I kind of set myself up - by bypassing an easy stance to place a second bolt (added later) and going straight for a high placement of a 3rd bolt at the crux, while hanging off two hooks. But that 3rd bolt sure was nice for protecting the crux when John got the FFA!
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looks like a nice line
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looks like a nice line
Yeah, the 5.9 at Goat Rock turned out well. It is the last of three lines that I had been eyeing for some time, the three shallow water chutes to the left of Embraceable You. I finished up the other two routes earlier this year; it was great to work with John and get the final route completed.
That adds 3 new routes to Goat Rock - two 180-foot 5.9's, and a 155-foot 5.10a. All of them have great rock and movement. All the routes are 2-star quality, with the 5.10a perhaps even better. The climbs make for a fun day up in that area, especially given the other new stuff (e.g. at Satyr) in the area too.
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Will have to check the new routes out when I get back to climbing.
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Will have to check the new routes out when I get back to climbing.
I didn't know the Chance Brothers climbed.
Kat and I thoroughly enjoyed the summer solstice with a couple days at Pinns.
We had quite the adventure today following in the footsteps of a giant. A stance climbing maniac really. :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
I led Embraceable You at Goat Rock. 4 lead bolts and a mid-anchor in 240 feet of climbing. :yikes:
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We had quite the adventure today following in the footsteps of a giant. A stance climbing maniac really. :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
I led Embraceable You at Goat Rock. 4 lead bolts and a mid-anchor in 240 feet of climbing. :yikes:
Did you note the ramp leading right from the mid-anchor belay? Holmgren gave me a nod to turn that into a variation of the 2nd pitch - if I can still get up the first pitch, that is.
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Did you note the ramp leading right from the mid-anchor belay? Holmgren gave me a nod to turn that into a variation of the 2nd pitch - if I can still get up the first pitch, that is.
I looked at it repeatedly from across the way and below yesterday (a lot of trips out there lately). I discovered it the hard way. Climbing up past the second bolt on p1, I slung a prominent knob to protect the moves to the anchor (which I could not see from below). I was lured by the ramp to the right (LOLR) and climbed over that way and up a bit - looking for the anchor. It was at that point I realized the anchor was over to the left, across a nasty-looking section of face (not great rock, bulging and thin). I had to use some trickery to get back over there. Luckily there was a big knob above me on the left. I slung that to protect the left traverse and difficult/long reach to the upper anchor bolt. Once clipped, I took the sling off and made a scary/exposed step through series of moves to reach the anchor - whew! :yikes: :yikes: :yikes:
I was tempted to place a first bolt and get the variation started after realizing my predicament but I was evidently more determined to get back on track and finish the old route. I remembered you mentioning Jack giving you the go ahead on the variation.
I was leading with my bolt bag just in case. I drilled a replacement bolt at the anchor before bringing Kat up and continuing onto the second pitch. I had a really hard time seeing the bolts on pitch 2. The sun was glaring and the bolts had stainless SMC hangers. Those hangers can be so hard to see against the gray, lichen-covered rock. The first bolt isn't too far off the belay (stance after 20 feet). I could see its profile from the belay but still had a hard time finding it once I cast off. I had all but given up on finding the second bolt, when I finally spied it along what I perceived as the natural line - but not the LOLR. That second bolt is easily 50 feet from the first one. Both lead bolts on p2 are stars with stainless SMC hangers - so the stars are pretty rusty from the mixed metal - the hangers are still shiny (but they have a tiny footprint). The lead bolts and mid-anchor bolts are all stars with Leepers - rusty hangers and sleeves with no rust on the nail heads. All the bolts are tight and some appear to have glue residue showing. Bruce has warned me about glued-in stars on Holmgren routes.
It looked like that initial section up the variation might go with a couple bolts (and definitely lead to easier ground) but the rock didn't feel or look all that great (first impression). There is also a bulge/lip to get past.
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I led that first pitch a couple of times and recall thinking that it was a pretty stern 5.8. Did you find places for a a wired stopper or two? I seem to recall those, as well. I have no recollection at all of the second pitch! Congrats on your new routes! You and Gavin have done some fine work on Goat!
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I led that first pitch a couple of times and recall thinking that it was a pretty stern 5.8. Did you find places for a a wired stopper or two? I seem to recall those, as well. I have no recollection at all of the second pitch! Congrats on your new routes! You and Gavin have done some fine work on Goat!
So weird that you say that. Rubine shows nuts and tricams before the first bolt on his topo. Unless there is something between lodestones that I missed, there is nothing. I would have gladly welcomed something. Kat did not see anything either. It is 60 feet of 4th and easy 5th higher to a grassy hummock at the base of the actual chute. That is followed by a committing potential death fall section of 5.6 or 5.7 for another 15 feet to the first bolt. A fall between bolt 2 and the anchor would be UGLY! The first pitch is 105 feet. The second is 135 feet with a bolt at 20 feet, 70 feet and then run to the top with a few sling knobs. Those were definitely different times. The new routes are really nice with plenty of spice. :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup: :ihih:
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Some of you, when your Mom told you to look both ways before crossing the street, looked up then down and ran forward.
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Congrats on your new routes! You and Gavin have done some fine work on Goat!
Thanks! Yeah, I'm pleased with the 3 new Goat routes, and glad that my vision of them held up with excellent rock, fun sequences, and the length of each climb. There is now a great combination of climbs to be done in the Goat Rock area.
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Some of you, when your Mom told you to look both ways before crossing the street, looked up then down and ran forward.
I was raised by wolves.
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Some of you, when your Mom told you to look both ways before crossing the street, looked up then down and ran forward.
The ones who look up and down turn out to be climbers.
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The ones who look up and down turn out to be climbers.
I generally try not to look down unless it is absolutely necessary :frown2: :crazy: :arf:
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The weather is cooling down again this week and it's also fire season. No more campfires at Pinns.
The YNP fire crew was at Pinns last week improving defensible space.
They did some really nice work.
I am going to take a rake down this week and see what I can do to help. :idea: :yesnod: :ihih:
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Quote of Johnny to Mauro last Friday when we were up in the air a bit putting in a high and heavy beam.
"Don't worry, the ground will break your fall"
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The ground breaks everything.
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Everything can be broken.
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The ground breaks everything.
Sudden Deceleration Syndrome
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JC, bummer to hear the fire pits are locked.
start by raking carpet cleaner.
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JC, bummer to hear the fire pits are locked.
start by raking carpet cleaner.
:lol:
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We just spent the last 3 days climbing at Pinns.
The weather was particularly nice yesterday with complete overcast and a high of only 81.
Wednesday I finally led Flip-a-Coin Chimney. Cool climb with good pro. Two piton scars take offset aliens (yellow/red, then yellow/ green). Other pieces I got in were a #4 and #5 camalot, a red alien, and a #6 (not great but okay flaring placement). You could skip the #6 if you're okay pulling the crux with a buried offset (the yellow/green offset). There is a decent sling knob on the chimney flake/arete toward the top. I pulled some rotten, shredded red webbing with a cool old corded #8 stopper (no brand) from the crack by the scrub oak near the tunnel-through exit. Looked like someone used it to rappel years ago even though the climb is a walk off.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48154160316_e57720a7ea_z.jpg)
Thursday I had the pleasure of leading the last of the new routes on Goat Rock - Sheep Sheer 10a**
Here's a couple pics
Stance for the crux clip (I've got it clipped - whew!)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48154244672_1738bbb6c6_z.jpg)
Reaching the upper holds above the crux to crank the lip - HUGE thanks to Kat for the pics and Gavin for the encouragement and the belay.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48154160621_e363efddc2_z.jpg)
We ended the day with some simul bolting :idea: to get a new, easier route rolling :ihih:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48154161151_3e7931e92a_z.jpg)
Yesterday we took it easy with a couple casual FA's and a little rebolting. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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I want to thank Gavin again for the fine new routes.
Nice lines, bolts right where you want them -but spicy! :devildevil: and highest quality workmanship.
You will want to thank him too - when you climb them. :ihih:
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Vicki is a saint.
I should also thank Kat and remember that she too is a saint and a trooper. :aureola:
She has probably led and followed more Pinnacles routes than any woman alive :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
We celebrated 22 years together - yesterday and today(maybe tomorrow too :D).
Our 19th anniversary of moving to CA is in a couple weeks. :guitar: :blahblah: :arf:
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Yeah, the weather earlier this week was so mild - as JC and KC said, it didn't feel like late June!
Great effort by JC onsighting the 5.10a at Goat Rock - it was impressive to watch him push through the thin and committing moves of the cruxes!
Glad you two celebrated your anniversary in style at Pinnacles!
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Happy anniversary to KC & JC :guitar: :guitar:
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I would had loved to see that lead. I suggested that JC get "Mr. 5.10" tattooed on his ass. His response was cheeky.
If JC was to borrow a pair of Brad's shorts, we might even get a glimpse of the tattoo during crux stemming moves.
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I would had loved to see that lead. I suggested that JC get "Mr. 5.10" tattooed on his ass. His response was cheeky.
If JC was to borrow a pair of Brad's shorts, we might even get a glimpse of the tattoo during crux stemming moves.
:ciappa: :ciappa: :ciappa:
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If JC was to borrow a pair of Brad's shorts...
That's not gonna happen, even in your wildest dreams.
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cool pics on Sheep Sheer. nice!
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I thought Jim was Mr 5.10....then again, Mr Mud getting that inked on his ass...priceless.
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cool pics on Sheep Sheer. nice!
Thanks to Tuff Chik.
Here's a mid-foot shot in the next bulge (5.9)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48163251727_f2f82c69bf_z.jpg)
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You gotta bump them feet up...
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I thought Jim was Mr 5.10....then again, Mr Mud getting that inked on his ass...priceless.
I've never been, nor will I ever be Mr 5.10
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You gotta bump them feet up...
That's what I'm doin' dude. :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
That section is fun!
Sheep Sheer starts with a 10a bulge followed by this^^^ 9.
Goat Riddance starts with a 5.7 bulge and then a 9.
Forgive and Forgoat starts with a 7, then a tricky and sustained 8, followed by a burly 9.
They are all quite tasty for cabrito :biggrin:
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Nice looking route.
Congrats on the lead and the anniversaries
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Nice looking route.
Congrats on the lead and the anniversaries
Thanks Mud. You would/will? like the routes.
Noal could also add them to his traxion circuit :yesnod: :thumbup: :ihih:
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Goatmeal, your breakfast masterpiece.
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Today was a friggin' blast.
We established a 4th new route at Goat Rock.
We were a party of four.
Gavin and I both drilled 4 bolts apiece.
The climb is 140 feet long.
All on the Fourth of July!
I think that is rather fortuitous.
The only thing that could have possibly been better would have been a 5.4 rating :lol:
Days seriously do not get any better than this :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih: :devildevil:
Four Goats' Sake 5.6**
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Did you name it "Meet Pie, the Sheep"?
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I think that is rather fortuitous.
You mean "four-tuitous," right? ;)
It was indeed a fun day. We finished things up at Goat Rock in style, with some great new climbs for folks to explore in the (hopefully near) future.
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4th goats sake!
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Sounds like it was a great birthday!
But who were the rest of the "four?" I'd expect the two spouses?
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Today was a friggin' blast.
We established a 4th new route at Goat Rock.
We were a party of four.
Gavin and I both drilled 4 bolts apiece.
The climb is 140 feet long.
All on the Fourth of July!
I think that is rather fortuitous.
The only thing that could have possibly been better would have been a 5.4 rating :lol:
Days seriously do not get any better than this :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih: :devildevil:
Four Goats' Sake 5.6**
Hammer bangs are my favorite kind of fireworks! Great work, gentlemen!
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Sounds like it was a great birthday!
But who were the rest of the "four?" I'd expect the two spouses?
Nah - we just picked up some high school cuties in the parking lot :nonod: :frown2: :out: :crazy:
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Great to hang and work with Gavin and Alacia yesterday. Bonus - Alacia takes some nice pics :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup: :ihih:
JC leads Four Goats' Sake
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48205174556_424ed5586d_z.jpg)
KC follows Four Goats' Sake
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48205227027_c27fde87b1_z.jpg)
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Nah - we just picked up some high school cuties in the parking lot :nonod: :frown2: :out: :crazy:
I see. So you've been offering rides on your unicycle again?
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With all the new routes, Goat Rock is like a drive-in movie screen for hikers in the High Peaks. It would be a ton of fun to get a crowd of Masters leading the routes at PCAD for a guidebook photo.
Kat and Alacia were shivering at the belay yesterday, while Gavin and I simul-drilled (yes, that's a thing now - part of the new, new way). Even though we were stance bolting in the sun, we got started early enough that it really was not hot - with a nice breeze.
JC and Gavin simul-drilling bolts 7 and 8 on Four Goats' Sake
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48205902517_e92ec57607_z.jpg)
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Today was a friggin' blast.
We established a 4th new route at Goat Rock.
We were a party of four.
Gavin and I both drilled 4 bolts apiece.
The climb is 140 feet long.
All on the Fourth of July!
I forgot about the 4 letter words uttered at various times during the day.
I had a four foot sling over my shoulder.
My giant fourhead was present.
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Today I finally got back up to Voyeur Wall and got the FA on Rug Burn (5.11b **), the route to the left of Cutting The Rug. There is a lot of 5.11 climbing on that route, mostly in the 11a range, but the final wide stemming moves near the top are definitely harder and in the 11b range. I decided to add one more lead bolt (bringing the total to 10 lead bolts), so that it makes use of the anchor for Cutting The Rug rather than adding a new one.
It's a really nice climb with very good rock overall, and I have to recognize DES and Noal for the work they did on it, placing bolts in great locations for protecting a leader from falls. I definitely felt more comfortable committing to the hard sequences given the bolt placement.
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Good job Noal keeping mr mud honest.
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Today I finally got back up to Voyeur Wall and got the FA on Rug Burn (5.11b **)
Nicely done Gavin.
Sorry I missed it but I doubt I would have been much help :frown2: :eeeek: :nonod: :arf:
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Congrats! Good to see that is done.
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Great work, Gavin!
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Dang, look at u guys, crudding straight thru the summer. Hope the mild weather holds up. Let's get 999 people on goat rock for the guidebook photo. Simul-TR? heheheh
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All drinking goat's milk.
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Dang, look at u guys, crudding straight thru the summer. Hope the mild weather holds up. Let's get 999 people on goat rock for the guidebook photo. Simul-TR? heheheh
Yes, we are still climbing and the weather has been wonderful.
Kat and I just spent two days at Pinns - we spent time with the trails crew supervisor identifying needed climber access signage and some other potential work projects for PCAD.
We took time out from our busy schedule to climb 4 routes (1 new and 3 old) and rebolted an anchor. :yesnod: :lol: :ihih:
Are you suggesting we employ a herd mentality for the guidebook photos?
TR you say? Nah...only leaders will be photographed simultaneously. Anything else would be baaaaaad form imo.
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All drinking goat's milk.
Now that scares me.
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Here's a couple shots from yesterday at Popcorn Pinnacle.
The North Corner 5.8R - the nasty fall below the start (a reachy, bouldery crux) is not shown :frown2: :eeeek: :crazy: :yikes:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48254351076_6980bba408_z.jpg)
The replacement anchor on Popcorn.
Positioning bolts for anchors in an up/down configuration has become my preferred/favorite combo :thumbup: :biggrin:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48254334011_b2df6ea4db_z.jpg)
My trusty partner :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48254424242_0ddf15387b_z.jpg)
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JC at the summit of Popcorn Pinnacle - taken by Brad the day I led the squeeze chimney route (3-18-19).
I already had the rope down to do a Pinnacles rappel - I did not replace the anchor that day.
Notice how the God Beams missed me? :devildevil:
The 5.8R goes up a bit left of where the rope is dangling (starts off the far left end of the boulder). You still can't see the nasty drop off. :eeeek:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48259965242_1de3bc3243_z.jpg)
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The quest may or may not continue his week.
The low for the week looks like 86 on Friday.
Perfectly acceptable for an early morning quest - then again... the idea may already be 86'ed.
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gangster hot out there.
sph!
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And, it will just get hotter.
https://www.mercurynews.com/2019/07/16/more-100-degree-days-likely-in-coming-years-new-study-finds/
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And, it will just get hotter.
https://www.mercurynews.com/2019/07/16/more-100-degree-days-likely-in-coming-years-new-study-finds/
Knuckle draggers want me to subscribe to read this shocking news. :lol:
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Well the Mercury News is a far superior paper than the Santa Cruz Sentinal.
It might do you some good.
Clink could have a read while belaying you.
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Clink could have a read while belaying you.
Nope - I think that's Clink's nap time.
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True, Clink does need all the beauty sleep he can get and then some.
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Time to revive the thread.
Now if I could just revive clink.
Kat and I spent a long day at Crowley Towers finishing the rebolting I started before the closures kicked in.
I started by leading the 5.9R on Point Five Pinnacle.
Anyone that gets on it will really appreciate the replacement bolt.
That climb is good enough for a star imo.
Kat enjoyed it too.
I tried to boulder out the 5.9 on Tower One but spent too much time hanging off the holds and ran out of juice.
I waited too late in the day and after I had done too much straining with bolt removal - need to return and hit that one fresh.
That thing is pretty stout for late in the day.
Anxious to get back out again :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :arf:
Pleasant temps and almost no bugs.
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I forgot to mention that one of the old anchor bolts (the right bolt) on Tower One was only 1 1/2 inches long and no crowbar was needed for removal. It was a star dryvin but the head on the nail did not overlap the sleeves. Not sure what kind of nail it is but definitely not the correct/stock item. The whole assembly came out after a few taps under it with a tuning fork. Look at the scrunched up lead sleeve on that gem (lower left). For those not familiar with star dryvins - the lead sleeve should be at the bottom of the sleeves and provides all the pull-out strength. It's a miracle this thing did not come loose.
Notice that the right bolt is the top bolt - so all the weight would have gone on it - and it has one of those lovely aluminum lever-out homemade tab hangers. The biner was a leaver that someone put on the lower bolt (Brad?). The picture on the right shows the size of the nail head nicely. At least whoever did this placed a second bolt. All the other anchors on the Towers were single bolts. Gotta love it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48770907223_6943a429e6_z.jpg)
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I liked this one because of the shadow and position - as we were putting the finishing touches on the route :ihih:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48064819487_bfed8df915_z.jpg)
wow awesome
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Time to revive the thread.
Now if I could just revive clink.
Kat and I spent a long day at Crowley Towers finishing the rebolting I started before the closures kicked in.
I started by leading the 5.9R on Point Five Pinnacle.
Anyone that gets on it will really appreciate the replacement bolt.
That climb is good enough for a star imo.
Kat enjoyed it too.
I tried to boulder out the 5.9 on Tower One but spent too much time hanging off the holds and ran out of juice.
I waited too late in the day and after I had done too much straining with bolt removal - need to return and hit that one fresh.
That thing is pretty stout for late in the day.
Anxious to get back out again :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :arf:
Pleasant temps and almost no bugs.
(I can bug. You should have called!)
Jack and I climbed that route in 1991 (sort of by mistake - ask me after I've had a couple of beers). Even Jack considered the bolt to be of a psychological variety. Thanks for your long walk and good work!
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I seem to recall that according to the now defunct climbers log RobMunge spent a lot of time up at the towers.
Never could understand why.
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Looking for that treasure.
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It might be that the towers have an alpine feel.
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They do have that alpine feel but I haven't done hardly any of those. Need to.
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Out with NOAL and Lexi today on the west side.
Fun day with some good climbing and lots of laughter :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Candygram for Mongo.
And Munge got in ten routes that were new to him.
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Candygram for Mongo.
And Munge got in ten routes that were new to him.
Ode to Rodney Dangerfield
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That movie needs more routes.
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Brad - I'm evidently not climbing as strong as you think or ratings are wrong - either in Pinns, that other place or both.
Last two routes I've tried in Pinns have shut me down.
Luckily they were not "no fall" routes. I think the holds have evolved since the ratings were assigned (imagine that).
Questing looks good for the upcoming weekend - forecast to be in the 70's.
Now if I can just find something that I can actually get up! :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:
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did you say find something that will actually get it up?
dude, your not that old! Plus not here man. TMI
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Say there Mr Mud, can you belay?
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still learning
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Just finished enjoying a 4 day run of glorious weather with 3 days at Pinns.
Saturday's Child came a day early (on Friday).
Took Saturday off.
Yesterday I got spooked looking at Casper with Noal and fell back on the Numbskull's option (well, luckily not literally) and I should mention that Casper HAS GOT TO BE better.
Today I saw stars from Crowley Tower One and got spanked Once around my Backside on the way out.
Can't wait to get back. The crud beckons... :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup: :lol:
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You left out that you TRed Oh Henry with just one hang. Gotta say Oh Henry is one hell of a nice route!
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You left out that you TRed Oh Henry with just one hang. Gotta say Oh Henry is one hell of a nice route!
I was trying not to spray :lol:
Thanks for a fun day out dude :biggrin: :thumbup:
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"I was trying not to spray"
Next time, try dismounting from the unicycle before using the urinal.
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:lol:
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This picture of me leading Numbskull's Needle and the climb itself seem to be designed to confuse.
The first bolt is about chest high and the second is at your waist where you would never expect to see/find it. The first two bolts basically do nothing to protect bouldery moves off of ledges/decks (other than maybe to keep you from going "all the way").
All three lead bolts and one of the anchor bolts appear to be old hardware store junk (wedges?) and are sticking waaaaaay out.
No way to tell how much of the bolt is actually embedded in the rock - my best guesstimate is an inch to an inch and a half.
EDITED - this photo was corrected/rotated courtesy of beano - thank you!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48833122502_44f589d7d1_z.jpg)
Here is bolt 1 close up. At first glance the start doesn't look that bad but it is harder than it looks and very committing on some pretty lousy rock. Use your own judgement before bouldering up on it and good luck.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48833320722_25cd020460_z.jpg)
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That looks tilted.
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That looks tilted.
Agreed - but it is unmodified from the way you took it (photo credit to Noal).
I tried to rotate it in photoshop but then couldn't crop it with much of anything left.
I took the bolt pic years ago when we stopped to check it out and just kept going...maybe I was smarter then? :lol:
Maybe the Earth shifted on its axis just as you snapped the photo :idea: :crazy:
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Numbskulls.
Not to be confused with Nitwits.
There should be a Dumbasses Pinnacle.
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Numbskulls.
Not to be confused with Nitwits.
There should be a Dumbasses Pinnacle.
In comparison to Numbskull, Nit-Wit should get a star.
I'll bet we can find a pair of pinnacles or do two routes on one and call them Dumb and Dumber.
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Moronica
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Moronica
Last of the Moronicans
My old buddy Martin from KY put up a route there called What a Maroon! :lol:
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looks fine to me
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looks fine to me
But it's not pink.
Better have some carrots before you go climb it :biggrin: :thumbup: :out: :ciappa:
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Rubine's book says the bolts on Numbskull are set bolts. That may explain why they stick out so far/are drilled so shallow. With a set bolt, the only thing holding the bolt in is a tapered plug/pin that jams into the hollow, split shaft of the stud as it bottoms out on the back of the hole. This type of bolt is one of the worst choices for a climbing bolt and one of the most difficult to place properly since the depth must be drilled so precisely. If they are drilled to the proper depth, they shouldn't stick out any farther than any other type of stud bolt.
Here's a pic of a 1/4 inch set bolt I removed at Crowley Towers. They typically either slide right out as this one did or snap off, since there is no way to disengage the tapered plug/pin.
This one was the only lead bolt on the 5.9R and slid out with my fingers after popping it up a half inch or so with the tuning fork.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4839/32474610398_a2071c0ba2_z.jpg)
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Hanger looks good. I'd re-use it.
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Hanger looks good. I'd re-use it.
You and clink should form a comedy team and take it on the road :biggrin: :thumbup: :yesnod: :arf:
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Hanger looks good. I'd re-use it.
Yes! Re-use all the old crappy hangers. Attach them to a jean jacket vest. Heavy metal style. Then you can clip gear on them. Just think you could carry a quadruple rack! Sick.
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I like the vest idea.
crappy bolt and aluminum hanger, no fall ethos
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Climber themed "Got Junk" jackets, raddickle.
JC and Noal can run a sweat shop out of the garage, I have some grandkids who would be perfect for the child labor force. :-)
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Dunno if JC has enough hangers to start a vest business. Maybe do short shorts instead w/ hanger codpiece.
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Then I would have to change my handle to Clank. Might not be a good idea.
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Then I would have to change my handle to Clank. Might not be a good idea.
Clink,
Clank is a good idea.
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Mr Mud would re use them.
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Geezus. I leave you guys alone for a day and look what happens. :rolleyes:
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Mr Mud would re use them.
For a vest. There's no other logical conclusion.
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The quest continued yesterday with a couple 5.9's.
First was a return to Once Around The Backside. That is a really fun climb but a bit tricky reading the holds. Once you figure it out - it's really good. There is some loose stuff left of the bolt line, where you can tell people have been trying to go (and ripping off all kinds of stuff). I think people try to go that way to avoid the crux. The climbing is really nice but the bolts feel a little left of the best line (it was originally done on aid for the first 2 bolts). If you stay right, the rock is really good and the movement is interesting. Definitely a star-worthy route. Well protected, excellent rock, fun and interesting movement. Rubine had it at 10 (no letter designation) with one star. Brad has it at 9 with no star. I'd say 5.9* and KC agrees - although it felt 10a to her (it's reach dependent, so harder for shorter folks). :ihih:
We looked at, but decided not to clog our Bong with a Load of Ash (save it for later - plus it was in full sun).
We opted instead for a trip up to the High Peaks to do Gavin's freshly bolted new route Dangling Participle 5.9*
Fun route and got to snake Brad in the process (coveted 2nd ascent). :lol:
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beano is the master of photoshop - she kindly rotated this photo into a proper orientation for me - many thanks!
Now I am off to see the wizard (of another sort)... :ihih:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48833122502_44f589d7d1_z.jpg)
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Noal and I got out yesterday and spent some time in the shade.
We got started a little early for Halloween by climbing Casper. (skip the next part and go to the pictures if you don't want the details).
Noal and I looked at the route last weekend on the way to Numbskulls Needle and decided it would be prudent to return with a bigger rack. I was very glad I did, since one side of the crack is nice and hard and the other side is mostly crumbly crap.
Every time I went to place a piece, the upper side of the crack would crumble/mildy disintegrate - very disturbing.
There might have been a couple pieces I would have actually trusted to hold a fall. The others might slow you down.
I had a double rack from green alien to #3 camalot and one #4. I placed everything but one red, gray and green alien. There were also a few spots where large stoppers might have worked, tricams and a #5 and/or #6 cam (none of which I had).
It is impossible to see the larger sections of the upper crack from the ground where the big stuff might work.
There came a point where I grew weary of placing yet another so-so piece and just focused on climbing to the next stance.
On the upside, the face you're climbing (on the right) has some really good rock. I uncovered more than a few good holds that were covered with thick green moss and dirt.
We spied what we thought was tat at the anchor last weekend and I took binocs to look yesterday. There was a huge wad of tat threaded and tied into the three anchor bolts. One bolt appears to be a 5 piece (or an insert) and the other two are studs. No way to tell what type. The studs are covered in some type of white goop - it wasn't bird poop because it was nowhere but on the studs and nuts. The two outer bolts are tight, the middle is a little loose (I couldn't get a good purchase on the nut with a wrench to tighten it). All three hangers are SMC stainless. I cut loose all the tat and put a screwlink with a carabiner on all three bolts.
Here's a couple pics
Working up the first half
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48860126242_eb69d19714_z.jpg)
Getting near the last good stance for decent gear before the run to the anchor. The rock on the left finally starts to feel solid up here and you're faced with a choice between continuing up and right - then traversing back left or climbing straight up on steep, knobby rock to the anchor. I chose the latter. Either way is committing and a bit hairy.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48859930541_724bcaee40_z.jpg)
Casper anchor cleaned up - thanks to climberdude for the leaver biners - he left these on Proclamation's South Summit when he and I climbed that route. I re-claimed them when I returned and rebolted the anchor on Proclamation's South Summit.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48860218926_b08bb4e2b2_z.jpg)
Noal enjoying the moss and dirt one last time as he rappels Casper. Have you climbed your salad lately?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48859865523_9df97c2cf7_z.jpg)
I want to thank Noal for coaching me on this one :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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Good job JC! What a mossy, dirt filled, filthy climb. (I kinda liked it tho.)
Lots of flies too. Not much wind so flies at the base, flies 50 feet off the ground, flies AND yellowjackets in the parking lot water fountain. At least they like to bite JC not me! :smile5:
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Good job JC! What a mossy, dirt filled, filthy climb. (I kinda liked it tho.)
Lots of flies too. Not much wind so flies at the base, flies 50 feet off the ground, flies AND yellowjackets in the parking lot water fountain. At least they like to bite JC not me! :smile5:
Thanks Noal for following this one - not something I really wanted to climb. :) ;D
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Wow, it must have been a treat to climb it when it was actually dry!
Will you ever go back and re-climb it so as to re-bolt the anchor?
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Wow, it must have been a treat to climb it when it was actually dry!
Will you ever go back and re-climb it so as to re-bolt the anchor?
More like trick or treat.
Negatory on a repeat. Anchor is fine.
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John asked me to rotate these for him too.
Way to up the grade, dude!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48863167666_9b81e23b25_b.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48862645918_025d34dc1d_b.jpg)
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Beanolars! Long time no hear from. Looking forward to another long season of randomly adding "s" to things and places!
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John asked me to rotate these for him too.
Way to up the grade, dude!
Oh great - another comedian in the bunch.
You should join clink and F4 on their world tour.
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That bottom is how caspar really looks. I have a bad habit of tilting the camera. Thanks for fixing.
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That bottom is how caspar really looks. I have a bad habit of tilting the camera. Thanks for fixing.
The bandwagon effect.
beano - I will take you down to Casper at PCAD and you can lead it for your first time back on the sharp end at Pinns.
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^^^
EDIT
I'll gladly help with belays and harassment.
Oh how we loved Beanolars.
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EXCELLENTS. CANT WAIT TO SEE YOUS GUYS AT THE PCADS.
John, is this the bolt ladder route? Sounds good to me! You know how I hate runouts.
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John, is this the bolt ladder route? Sounds good to me! You know how I hate runouts.
Still playing the comedian I see.
You can read my trip report to Kim for a bedtime story.
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was on the west side yesterday and rebolted Sombrero
Should be an interesting lead since the first bolt is too low and the second is too high (it was originally a two bolt, bolt ladder that went free). Reminds me of the Third Sister.
I'm quoting myself and correcting myself.
I pulled off Sombrero today after 5 tries.
It is nothing like Third Sister.
If you have the reach and the stamina, you can clip the second bolt before powering through the crux.
Now that I know the secrets, I could do it again.
No way I would rate it 5.8
Shorter people will put it somewhere in the 10 range.
I'd like to see Jennifer Wang give it a shot - Kat said she would too.
Kat couldn't reach the key holds, or by the time she manged to - it was game over - like Hans and Franz used to say - "we going to pump you up!"
Take a pillow so you can take a siesta afterwards.
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Good work on the rebolting effort! I climbed Sombrero several times in the seventies and eighties and then forgot about it. It's likely too much of a hump for me now.
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Good work on the rebolting effort! I climbed Sombrero several times in the seventies and eighties and then forgot about it. It's likely too much of a hump for me now.
Thanks waldo.
I had to throw a couple moves to get the key hand holds (not something I normally do).
Once you have the good right hand, you have to lock off and hang, then do a couple partial pseudo one arm pull-ups to get the draw on and get the rope clipped (your feet are under you somewhat but not much - under the overhang). Once you do that - you're golden as far as protection for pulling the crux - providing you're not out of gas from hanging around too long. The feet are tricky and once you crank through, it is really balancy. Fall on the way to the summit and you're decking for sure. That part of the climbing is probably 5.5-5.6. I had two knobs slung on that upper part (might slow you down) and the rock is good.
It took me 3 times (starting clean each time) getting up there and getting the upper bolt clipped to finally unlock it. After the 3rd fall, feeling my tank was almost empty, I lowered off, left the rope in place, rested a bit and then charged up it and managed to unlock it. I summited, rapped to clean the bolts and did it one more time clean.
I used a single locker on bolt 1 and that gives you the confidence to get in there and throw the moves. It's really reachy though - Kat could not reach the key holds no matter what she did, much less would she be able to reach the key right hold to hang there and pull up twice to get the second bolt clipped. I gave her a bit of an assist on TR and she finally managed to latch on to some key holds but still could not get the higher right hand you need to hang off and get the upper bolt clipped. I was proud of her for giving it a try.
I talked to clink on the way home and he said he used to watch people work the problem for hours (back in the day) and still not be able to get it.
Here is a picture of the new bolts with the rope at bolt 2. Bolt 1 is left of the rope about a foot above the lip.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48885414728_168565c766_z.jpg)
The climb stays in the shade pretty much all day because of all the trees. When the sun finally hits the face, the tree shadow marks the line. It also looked possible to just go straight up after bolt 2 but the holds are much smaller and the risk much greater. I took the line of least resistance. Good rock, large holds, slingable knobs :ihih:
Look closely and you can see a draw on the 1st bolt (I used a single locker).
The second bolt is in the shade almost straight up from the first bolt (just slightly right).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48886142237_0512db159b_z.jpg)
There are some lovely Autumn leaves at Pinnacles right now. Here is some burnt orange PO near Big Nixon
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48886240102_bb7d467446_z.jpg)
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The quest continued over the weekend and into yesterday as Noal and I finished an exciting new route on Sunday and Kat and I climbed Bongloadash yesterday. Noal and I have been gettin' after it for weeks now (it's been really great reconnecting) and Kat continues to be super supportive of my efforts and love for all things Pinnacles.
PCAD is this coming weekend, so we'll have to suspend the first ascent activity for a weekend - but we should have some great new stuff to announce in the coming months.
Bongloadash was quite the adventure. Bit of a pain getting up to the start and the walkoff isn't much fun but the route is really cool. It takes good gear (take cams from 1 1/2 to 5 inches), the old bolts are in good shape and the climbing is really interesting. There are a bunch of surprise holds along the route - in particular there are a lot of holes that seem to appear just when you need them - both on the somewhat rotten back wall and on the hard, black streaked rock that defines the route. The runout is a bit of a head game. This is not a route for the faint of heart. A fall between bolts 2 and 3 would be disastrous but the climbing is probably only 5.5 or 5.6 depending on height. Knowing Pinnacles rock and carefully choosing holds is critical. I only found one hold on the entire route that was truly loose and I removed part of it and then just avoided what was left.
The anchor was one long 5 piece carbon steel bolt on a Metolius hanger and one quarter inch button head on a Leeper hanger. I placed a long 5 piece stainless bolt and ASCA hanger to replace the button head. I will go back and remove the button head and replace the three old lead bolts at some point. Lead bolts 1, 3 and 4 are all 3/8 split shafts with beefy homemade hangers and they are all tight and showing only light rust. Bolt 2 is a 5 piece carbon steel bolt on a Metolius hanger.
The anchor cannot be seen from below and neither can most of the lead bolts (the climb undulates). Kat said she could see bolt 2 from the base. I could see the first gear placement and the fixed pin - that was all I needed to get started :thumbup: :biggrin:
The anchor bolts are way too far back from the top of the climb to set up for rappel, so you have to walk off (which requires a few 5th class moves on a short chute/cleft - alluded to on guidebook topo). I did see some old tat (1 inch nylon webbing) laced through the kissing point of some huge chockstones in the enormous chimney to the right of the route - so someone must have rappelled in two phases at some point (or bailed off the route) but that would mean leaving a long cord like a cordalette at the anchor and then more webbing at those chockstones. There was no tat at the anchor but someone could have cleaned that before walking off. Rappelling with two ropes would be a terrible pull unless you left enough webbing or a cord to get the rappel point over the top edge.
The climbing is thoughtful and exciting. The rock along the black streak is excellent. The features and holes are really cool. The route is photogenic from the main trail (we often need a third party photographer). People were stopping to watch Kat follow. I would definitely give the route a star and an R. People that don't climb at Pinnacles often might not agree with the star because of the ongoing water flow and resulting deposition along the streak - but I did not think it was any big deal. The only "slippery" part was a couple foot holds out to the left - just above the start - that are somewhat rounded and water polished.
I made a photo topo showing the approach and descent (using Google Earth) and another one to show the bolts and anchor.
The guidebook topo also shows some arrows pointing toward these but the one I made has more detail if you're interested.
We took the shorter 3rd class way up (shown as 4th Class on the guidebook topo). The rocky part is okay but the grassy, loamy slope above is unpleasant. It's like hiking on slippery snow (the thick grass makes it slick) where the snow slumps and packs under your feet with every step. Really not that unusual for Pinnacles - I've been in plenty of other spots where moving off trail feels like that.
We went down the longer, alternate path (partially shown on my version and the guidebook topo) following deer trails across the drainage (above the waterfall) and eventually joining the first part of the Crowley approach trail near the back of The Flumes.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50249987957_a9393982c5_z.jpg)
Here is a photo topo for the route. All the gear placements and the fixed pin are before bolt 1 (pin shown on guidebook topo).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48903798773_56da598088_z.jpg)
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I did see some old tat (1 inch nylon webbing) laced through the kissing point of some huge chockstones in the enormous chimney to the right of the route - so someone must have rappelled in two phases at some point (or bailed off the route) but that would mean leaving a long cord like a cordalette at the anchor and then more webbing at those chockstones.
I always assumed that that huge chockstone rap had been used to get off of Premeditated at some point (back in the days of shorter ropes perhaps).
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I always assumed that that huge chockstone rap had been used to get off of Premeditated at some point (back in the days of shorter ropes perhaps).
Gotcha.
I knew that climb was over there and Kat said she could see some bolts but I didn't think that climb had any bolts. I don't know anything about it nor do I ever want to. Here is what is embarrassing; I didn't even look at the topo for Bongloadash. I didn't even realize there was one. I just saw the photo and description on page 287 and never turned the page to the topo on 288. What a maroon!
I think I actually looked at that topo in the past and then forgot it was there (maybe a note that says "topo on next page" or "burn after reading" would help people with my disorder). Requisitioning for a name change to Major Duh. :arf:
I also see where you show the possible approaches - showing the one I called 3rd class as 4th class. Kat did not want to climb that short face so we roped up and I went as far left as I could before starting up the rock. It's only 25 feet before you get to the "3rd class grass" and loamy dirt but I thought even that part was unnerving. I went to within about 30 feet of the start of the climb before belaying her up.
I'm going to edit my post.
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Enjoyed a day out with waldo today. We climbed Saturday's Child Direct Finish.
We bailed afterwards to enjoy some shade and a nice cold Tecate in the parking lot.
Thanks for comin' out dude :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
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but I thought even that part was unnerving.
yes!
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yes!
3rd class dirt and slickey grass - take a piece of cardboard or a cafeteria tray for a quick descent :yesnod: :thumbup: :yikes:
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3rd class dirt and slickey grass - take a piece of cardboard or a cafeteria tray for a quick descent :yesnod: :thumbup: :yikes:
Or, as JC and I discussed yesterday, there could be legitimate uses for an ice ax at Pinnacles.
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^^^
Amen waldo.
On another note, I just finished a two day outing with Gavin and Brad.
Gavin came out yesterday morning and helped with a few items at Discovery Wall and then Brad and I spent the rest of the day at Marmot Rocks working on guidebook stuff.
Today, we all went to Goat Rock and Brad led Forgive and Forgoat and then worked on the topo on rappel for the two 5.9's and later from a distance at Possibility Pinnacle. He took pictures of Gavin and me climbing Piece of Ewe. I have wanted to climb that route for years and finally got on it today. I led all three pitches and Gavin was awesome on support and follow. That was my Halloween scare :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup: :yikes:
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Today, we all went to Goat Rock and Brad led Forgive and Forgoat and then worked on the topo on rappel for the two 5.9's and later from a distance at Possibility Pinnacle. He took pictures of Gavin and me climbing Piece of Ewe. I have wanted to climb that route for years and finally got on it today. I led all three pitches and Gavin was awesome on support and follow. That was my Halloween scare :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup: :yikes:
The "geezus! bolt" a few feet over and above the p2 belay protects a significant move and then you're on your own for about 35 feet of climbing (Gavin called it squirrely), protected only by sling knobs. You finish with a hand traverse for about 25 feet that is pretty cool.
I doubt this route has ever seen many ascents.
The back story in Chuck Richards 1974 guidebook is entertaining and telling.
On the original ascent, the Midnight Twins, after snapping their last drill bit, continued up the third pitch without protection, until being verbally forced to tie into a top rope. Several weeks later, Gary Colliver and Glenn Denny, oblivious to earlier events, stepped out onto the no-man's-land to puzzle over the broken bit projecting from the wall with no other sign of life. Weeks later, at Machete Direct, they learned the tale.
I took a few pictures but none of them look like much - except this one.
Gavin follows the extreme section of pitch 3 on Piece of Ewe 5.7R.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48990392283_92ce452502_z.jpg)
and a zoomed version to show some of the sling knobs
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48991072821_d2409351cd_z.jpg)
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Nice!
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Or, as JC and I discussed yesterday, there could be legitimate uses for an ice ax at Pinnacles.
Take it to the next level
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nice
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More mud today with Kat. We went to the Valle del Baile and did the 5.7 and the 5.8 in the corridor. The 7 is okay but I would not give it a star and the 8 is fun enough to repeat - definitely give that one a star. Ready to go back and climb the 9 and I'll Be Back Crack. They both look good. We may have saved the best for last :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
Heading out with Noal tomorrow and clink on Sunday.
Time for some mudsters' mischief :devildevil:
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Have fun!
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Have fun!
We did! :ihih: :devildevil:
Now on to the Meanderthal - it's been almost a year since we went out! :yikes: :arf:
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^^^
clink and I got out yesterday and got after it a bit.
Kat and I went to Pot today.
Not 5.5, lead bolt was a bad joke (old, rusty, 3/8 inch split shaft with a nut barely on and rusted in place, floppy Leeper) - it's 30 feet up after you've done all the hardest moves.
I was inclined to rate it maybe just a shade below 5.8 and Kat said 5.7 on follow (before I said what I thought).
Part of it for me may have been the pucker factor. A slight foot slip when I was way up was not welcome.
Definite R but with a mercifully grassy landing (probably make a nice crater). :yikes:
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^^^
Forgot to mention we had quite the condor show both days from the gang of three (92, 63, 26).
They get around! :yesnod: :ihih: :arf:
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Thanks for the day out JC. You guys are doing are doing some proud work. Quite the belay location for condor viewing. :)
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You guys are doing are doing some proud work. Quite the belay location for condor viewing.
Thanks! The view from that anchor is stellar! One of my favorites in the park.
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I was also out climbing yesterday - I spent the whole day up at Spike's Peak finishing another new climb at the middle pinnacle, a quite good 5.9 that moves through 8 bolts over 95 feet of climbing, and finishes up at the anchor for the 5.8 R. Pretty fun movement, from a narrow chimney squeeze for the first third of the route, then face climbing with an obvious 5.9 crux section near the top.
Many condors were flying, the temps were perfect, and the evening light was beautiful. Good times!
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Taking a rest day after spending the last 4 days in a row at Pinns.
I've only taken two days off from questing in the last nine (I slept hard last night).
I think I may have a problem.(I'll be ready to go back tomorrow) :lol:
Here's a few pics.
Redpointing the first route Noal and I established (what a pleasure to work with Noal again) - Chubby Rain 5.8***
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019279047_fc42d97e52_z.jpg)
The next treat (or was this a trick?) was Piece of Ewe with Gavin (thanks Gavin).
Brad got some incredible shots of the two of us from Possibility Pinnacle (thanks Brad).
Moving past the lead bolt into the no-man's-land of pitch 3. The only lead bolt on this pitch is just a few feet up and left of the belay and I'm pretty sure it's just below my left foot in this picture.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019576662_a50edd45ea_z.jpg)
Making one of the final hairball moves (with multiple knobs slung for pro) in what Brad referred to as
(the gut-wrenchingly runout route Piece of Ewe).
You can tell from my body position that the move is steep and serious (and it's not the only one like that in this section).
When I moved through and got my feet to where my right hand is, that lighter-colored reddish, ledgy area had a nice lip for my hands, where I could breathe and rest before doing the final hand traverse (with good feet most of the way) to the final belay.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49018824008_37804c11ff_z.jpg)
Here is a pic of me at the pitch 3 belay and Gavin at the pitch 2 belay for some perspective (best estimate of the 3rd pitch length is 65 feet). First pitch is 75 feet (can't see it in this pic), 2nd pitch is 115 feet (can see part of it in this pic). Definitely an adventure climb.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019545357_c176739fa1_z.jpg)
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I was also out climbing yesterday - I spent the whole day up at Spike's Peak finishing another new climb at the middle pinnacle, a quite good 5.9 that moves through 8 bolts over 95 feet of climbing, and finishes up at the anchor for the 5.8 R. Pretty fun movement, from a narrow chimney squeeze for the first third of the route, then face climbing with an obvious 5.9 crux section near the top.
Many condors were flying, the temps were perfect, and the evening light was beautiful. Good times!
You must be talking about that Dick Brown and son route anchor (5.8R).
Sorry I/we couldn't make it - I needed an easy day (even though Pot Pinnacle wasn't as easy as it looked).
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Taking a rest day after spending the last 4 days in a row at Pinns.
I've only taken two days off from questing in the last nine (I slept hard last night).
I think I may have a problem.(I'll be ready to go back tomorrow) :lol:
Here's a few more pics.
Redpointing Fake Purse Ninjas 5.7*(the second route Noal and I did recently) - you can't see the upper part.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019278927_b512efd9e6_z.jpg)
The old bolt on Pot Pinnacle
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49018555343_956a79ab6e.jpg)
The potential leg or body-breaking fall you'll take on Pot Pinnacle (taken from the location of the virtually useless bolt).
Anyone venturing up here for a 5.5 will have a rude awakening. Roper called it an open chimney. I stemmed the whole thing.
I'll take a tape measure and see what the actual length to the bolt is when I go back up there to do Peyote. Roper does not mention a bolt. Richards says 9 meters - which is 30 feet. I was surprised to see a 3/8 bolt on a 1966 climb (I would have expected a 1/4 incher). I was also surprised to see that the bolt had not been replaced since the anchor had - but I've done quite a few climbs in the High Peaks that are that way (only the anchor was replaced). This is not a criticism - just an observation - and if anyone wants to replace old lead bolts (basically me and well...me), having the anchor done already is a huge help!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019279287_901c7a72c9_z.jpg)
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You might be able to fall out of that kind of chimney.
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You might be able to fall out of that kind of chimney.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
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nice looking line
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I did a new route on Pot today, replaced the lead bolt on the Roper route and finished with Peyote. :out: :nono: :thumbup: :ihih:
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I did a new route on Pot today, replaced the lead bolt on the Roper route and finished with Peyote. :out: :nono: :thumbup: :ihih:
JC peeks around the corner near the top of pitch 1 of Up in Smoke
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028781503_5ef621eafc_z.jpg)
Craig follows pitch 1 of Up in Smoke
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028781668_ab293c528c_z.jpg)
Craig follows pitch 2 of Up in Smoke
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028781628_70e2fa4821_z.jpg)
JC on the summit of Peyote Pillar 5.6R
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49029292846_36f87ef851_z.jpg)
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Here is a description for Up in Smoke.
I think it is a fun addition and as a bonus, it shares the anchor on the original Roper route.
Folks can TR or rehearse the virtually unprotected Roper route (5.7R imo not 5.5 as listed in the guidebook).
That route has 1 bolt 35 feet up that is almost useless.
As I said in my previous post, if you make it that far leading the Roper route (a free solo really), the bolt doesn't really matter since the climbing above it is so easy.
In a way I understand why the FA party decided to place the bolt there (of course you could also consider the name of the pinnacle :lol:).
Any previous stance would have been more strenuous stemming that's pretty much just counter pressure.
There are very few sizable holds and some of the rock is not very good.
I think folks will be grateful to clip the nice stainless replacement lead bolt on the 5.7R on their way to the anchor.
Both climbs can be done with a half rope (30 meter) but they ain't no gym climbs :lol: :ihih: :devildevil:
Up in Smoke 5.3*
This fun route takes the line of least resistance up Pot Pinnacle.
It is well protected, exposed (the first pitch), on good to excellent rock and has an adventurous feel.
It is best to climb it in two short pitches to negate rope drag. Otherwise, it wraps around the formation and turns several drastic corners.
Pitch 1: Follow the up and left slanting crack just left of the start of the Roper route. Climb the face to a stance and a good 5-inch piece, which protects moves up and onto the apron. Climb along the apron (exposed) to a point where the crack pinches out and place another piece (creative pink Tricam) The crack is clogged by an interesting-looking infilling of rock matrix that creates a slightly bulging section. Move around/past the bulge and onto an easy ramp. More protection can be placed in the crack (good 3 1/2 and 2 inch piece). Continue along the ramp to a nice meadow and belay using body position near a mossy face/right-facing corner 60 feet from the start.
Pitch 2: Climb the left side of the mossy face (25 feet), staying next to the right-facing corner with a bottomless crack. A good 5 inch piece can be placed near the top of the crack to protect moves to the summit. Move up to a scoop/ledge just below the summit and use slings on features along the summit lip to redirect the rope (protects the follower and the easy traverse to the anchor). Move 10 feet right and a little down to the anchor (shared with the Roper route). Pitch 2 is 35 feet. Rappel 50 feet back to the start. Gear from 2 to 5 inches and a pink Tricam.
FA Party: John Cook, Craig Collins FA Date: 11-6-19
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More #5 action.
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More #5 action.
Jammed it in again today on I'll Be Back Crack but it was too big for Baile de las Aguiles :yesnod: :ihih: :arf:
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Jammed it in again today on I'll Be Back Crack but it was too big for Baile de las Aguiles :yesnod: :ihih: :arf:
Those climbs are cool. The crack protects well and has a lot of nice rock.
The Dance of the Eagles is pretty unique with that crazy diagonal line of chunky lodestones and it gets thin and balancy as he!! with a drop in rock quality just before the 1st bolt. Moves to the second bolt are super delicate and tenuous on less than ideal rock. I pulled this one off by the skin of my teeth :biggrin: :thumbup: :yesnod: :ihih:
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I'm taking a day off and waiting to see if Deb got some good pics of me on Baile de las Aguiles.
If you go to the Valle del Baile it is definitely a good time.
All the bolts are star dryvins with SMC stainless hangers except for the last bolt on Baile de las Aguiles and the only bolt on I'll Be Back Crack (5 pc carbon steel on a Metolius hanger). The last bolt on Baile de las Aguiles is a bit of an anomaly and may be the only combination of its kind at Pinnacles. It is a star dryvin on a stainless Metolius hanger. All of the stars are well placed and they should last for many more years.
I'll Be Back Crack is really fun and on good rock. I got in a #1 and #3 camalot at the start (within inches of each other) and then with a surprisingly easy move up, I got the #5 camalot in to protect the crux. I stemmed out my right foot and got my left toe jammed in the crack and stood up. I'd call it 5.7. Current rating is 5.8. I protected the rest with a red tricam, a #2 camalot, a good small stopper, a #4 camalot and a decent medium stopper. I also put slings on some knobs on the left face. The climbing on the left face is featured, fun, exposed and close enough to reach over and place gear. There are also a few moves along the way where you can tack out on the right wall. The route has a lot of lichen of various sorts since it has never seen much traffic. It's 70 feet long. The bolt protects the last 10 feet. There's at least one good sling knob to protect the exit moves and the climbing there is a little scrappy (dirty mostly) but it is pretty easy. Most of the route is 5.6ish.
I thought it was star worthy. 5.7*
JC leads I'll Be Back Crack - tacking out on the right wall
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49038534836_df6575627d_z.jpg)
Craig relaxes in the shade below I'll Be Back Crack
I can't remember if the bolt was on the wall or the ramp but I'm pretty sure it was on the ramp.
That position would have been a lot easier to drill, from the big lodestone stance.
Either way, the location is approximately correct and it is nice to clip that bolt for the finish.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49038985192_dd5a39382d_z.jpg)
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5.7 *
It got another lead and two follows today. All three climbers thought this rating was spot on.
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It got another lead and two follows today. All three climbers thought this rating was spot on.
Nice. Did they soft brush it for F4?
That 5.9 across the way is stout and if the new Goat climbs aren't 9's then it probably isn't either.
briham was supposed to be climbing those with Gavin today.
Anxious to hear what briham has to say.
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Was that the route near piedras Blancs that Brad led and much later Holmgren fessed up to leading it without a bolt.
Looks like a bolt was warranted.
Just interesting history.
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Was that the route near piedras Blancs that Brad led and much later Holmgren fessed up to leading it without a bolt.
Looks like a bolt was warranted.
Just interesting history.
Yep - except waldo apparently had the first lead as his name is first on the FA.
Craig and Deb got some good shots of me on those diagonal lodestones on Baile de las Aguiles but they stopped when I was sussing out the hairball move to step up and clip the first bolt (the first crux).
They probably got tired of waiting for me to try and figure it out.
It took me several times to finally commit and then it really got hairy.
Probably like watching paint dry or grass grow :out: :lol:
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Probably like watching paint dry or grass grow :out: :lol:
According to Craig it was like watching someone make a really hard putt on the golf course. He was doing a climbing commentary for Deb in a very hushed voice the way they do in golf. It was pretty funny afterwards when he told us what he was saying. ;D :o
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Brian and I did get out to Goat Rock yesterday - he led the four new routes there. We both felt the new ratings - 5.10b for Sheep Sheer, and 5.10a for the two routes to the right - made sense. The crux moves on Goat Riddance and Forgive and Forgoat are brief but seem legit for the 5.10a rating.
Definitely a fun day out on the rock, with no one else there, wonderful temps, and condors flying with the reddish light of sunset painted across the cliff faces!
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^What Gavin said. Goat Rock is now awesome! I felt a little tired after the 4th route, and I thought what the heck I have only done 4 routes why am I kind of tired....and then I realized we had done around 700ft of climbing on those 4 routes!!! Those suckers are long!
I think 10b and 10a x 2 makes sense. The crux on all three are short. They are not sustained at those grades by any means, but it seems they each had a move or two that felt at those grades.
The lines are great!!! It felt like climbing substantial water streaks that must have been climbed 30 years ago....but the routes are brand new and well bolted. Nice job on the new lines Gavin and John.
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We climbed the west summit of Peyote Pillar and Wooly Bear today.
The first one is fun. The second one is fun for about 25 feet and then not recommended for the next 70 feet :out: :lol: :arf:
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We climbed the west summit of Peyote Pillar and Wooly Bear today.
The first one is fun.
JC climbs Peyote Pillar. This is the point where you have to commit to one summit or the other. The stretch and commitment factor feel a little more serious pulling over to the main summit versus the west summit but the rock is better and there are some solid knobs.
The west side has some inches-wide ledges and edges but is a bit crumbly. Both are fun. No pro on either one :yikes:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49055546992_42306b3cbd_z.jpg)
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Practicing your Feather Canyon moves?
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Practicing your Feather Canyon moves?
Evi-damn-dently but without a net.
By the way, the rappels off both Peyote summits are 65 feet and put you right back at the start.
The main summit rappel puts you in the chimney initially but I walked out backwards after a bit and finished with a foot on either pillar.
The west summit rappel is very straightforward and friendly.
It's a pretty cool climb for old school Pinnheads.
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Evil-damn-dently translates to crater.
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Evil-damn-dently translates to crater.
Cheese grater then juicer :yesnod: :lol:
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The Quest continued today in the vicinity of The Flakes and Hawkins Peak.
Brad and clink were in fighting mode as they drilled like mudders possessed and got a new pitch done.
Gavin and I went old school on Cornflake and then I got to thoroughly enjoy Where's Waldo.
Thanks for a great day gents. :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin: :ihih: :arf:
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I figured the "regulars" were out today. Although also figured it was unlikely to see any of you guys where we were going.
I have done almost no climbing on the west side, so that's what Whitney and I did today. Got 7 routes done at the Flumes. Good times
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I figured the "regulars" were out today. Although also figured it was unlikely to see any of you guys where we were going.
I have done almost no climbing on the west side, so that's what Whitney and I did today. Got 7 routes done at the Flumes. Good times
Yep. We were High Peaks freaks (well...me at least :lol: )
We talked briefly (well...me at least ) to a couple dudes at end of day that said they were also at Flumes.
Good stuff there - I'm sure you guys had fun.
If you haven't done Where's Waldo it is top notch.
You can get to the start from Frothy Flake (rap down with a 70m) and check out all the other stuff around there.
Tuff Dome Regular Route is one of the best 5.6's at Pinns and the summit is exquisite.
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Gavin took a few shots of me on the summit of Cornflake.
This is a very weird climb. The majority of movement is crawling and a little slithering followed by committing and extremely exposed, unprotected stemming (no reliable pro) on the last short section of actual climbing to the summit.
Not to be alarmist but someone inexperienced with Pinnacles rock could die on this route and the X rating is fully warranted.
The belayer cannot see the leader after about 30 feet and there is 90 feet of movement to gain the summit.
If anyone wants more details let me know. You might want to eat your Wheaties before attempting this :lol:
JC at the summit of Cornflake
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49084742978_4a369f54e1_z.jpg)
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Keep downing the Cornflakes and Wheaties JC. Fiber is good for you! ^-^
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Keep downing the Cornflakes and Wheaties JC. Fiber is good for you! ^-^
What's good for the goose...
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Are the High Peaks over rated?
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Are the High Peaks over rated?
Under rated and Piglet is the best :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol: :out:
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Over rated, meaning soft
Ratings?
Or over rated meaning not really enjoyable?
If the later is your suggestion, just stay in the country you’re currently in because you will not be received back here.
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Over rated, meaning soft
Ratings?
Or over rated meaning not really enjoyable?
If the later is your suggestion, just stay in the country you’re currently in because you will not be received back here.
Under rated in terms of both.
Many of the old school ratings are from a much different time.
The scenery and summits can't be beat - but you already know that. :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
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They are!
But I was giving travelboy F4 crap with that question. :)
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Ha!! You are lucky, I get to come home Friday.
I know you miss me!
Over rated as in you have to hike how far? And how long are the routes?
Maybe it’s all for the view and to not see many folks
I often muddle if a 50m rope will work.
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Let me know what you want to climb when you get back jet-lag guy.
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Climb into bed 1st...maybe ECap.
Pass closed yet?
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copy that. Pine Line, it is.
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Shouldn't you two be posting on the "Quest for pizza and beer at Camp Curry" thread?
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copy that. Pine Line, it is.
Pine Line, that was my first Yosemite lead back in 2003. Sean Leary (Stanley, the one who died wing suite Jumping and made a Nose speed climb record once with Dean Potter) took me there. I got tired after the crux move, and asked him, "can I hang and take a rest?"
"Not on you first lead" he replied. So I climbed on. He was a great climber and very nice person too. I can't help to think of him every time when some one mention Pine Line.
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^^^
Hey BAP, how's the P.O.?
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PO are 60% Contained. (yes, like the wild fires)
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"Not on you first lead" he replied. So I climbed on.
I had a similar experience on Pine Line during a Dolt Tower run on the Nose. My buddy and I were climbing to Dolt to try and get familiar with the route for a NIAD attempt (which never successfully happened...). I was climbing Pine Line and was about to pull on gear, since the purpose of the day was to go fast, not free climb. And he said, "dude it's 5.7, just climb it!!" So I did.
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It is a good 5.7 route. I love that climb.
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Way back in the early 90’s. When Mr Mud had long hair (hippie!)....my Buddy and I were at the top of the 1st pitch on South Crack.
2 well known valley locals come up.
It was pretty windy (typical meadows).
I comments, man it’s windy!!
“Nah, it’s just breezy.”
Words to live by!!!!
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blasphemy, never a hippie
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Like mud but harder and more bolts...
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cool
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Does anyone mind if I delete the last 15 posts?
I received some complaints sent to the administrator about Tokyo drift and some grumbling about the Valley on a MUD thread. :madmax:
Getting the train back on the track, Craig and I ventured out to The Mockingbirds yesterday and climbed Jean Louise and Boo Radley. Approach the same as you would for Scout Peak Regular Route and then walk downhill, avoiding a few bits of PO.
Nice staging spot and good rock on the formation. Routes stay shady. Routes were dry with that spongy gray lichen on the rock - reminded me of Dirty Bird Crack at The Frog.
Fun lines with some interesting natural features. Additional natural features at the summit of Boo Radley that are belay quality if you choose not to reverse to the bolted anchor to belay. Spoiler alert - Boo has a surprise at the top of the 5th class section. Rappel is 40 feet, so a 100 foot rope is all you need. I love using half a 60m. That is my ideal rope.
Thick green moss elsewhere is still quite wet but most else has dried considerably. Ticks are out in full force since the rain.
Cool temps starting tomorrow with a slight chance of rain tonight and overcast will obviously hinder further drying.
Looks like more rain in the forecast for next week - Boo!
Party at beanos tonight :guitar: :blahblah: :crazy: :arf:
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I looked through the last 15 and do not see anything worth deleting. PM specifics
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everyone is getting soft.
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I looked through the last 15 and do not see anything worth deleting. PM specifics
I didn't see anything worth posting either :lol: :ciappa:
everyone is getting soft.
I think that is a separate issue - maybe an Old Man thread?
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I didn't see anything worth posting either :lol: :ciappa:
I think that is a separate issue - maybe an Old Man thread?
I can contribute to that thread. I have nap pictures.
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Saw a guy with an orange helmet rope soloing Full Circle yesterday.
I watched him finish and then rap a single line all the way down to clean.
He must have had an 80m rope 90+80+70 = 240
Not sure what he did after that. We didn't stick around that long.
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Then he did a 240 ft traxion.
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Then he did a 240 ft traxion.
That's what I figured but did not wait around to see. I imagine he would have needed a substantial break after the rope solo. It looked like a slow, agonizing process managing the loops of rope and using some trickery to move up (couldn't really tell exactly what he was doing) but he appeared to be doing the whole thing free. I had binocs but it was still a long way off.
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He also could of jugged back up. If it was me I'd rather climb.
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He also could of jugged back up. If it was me I'd rather climb.
Yep. I considered that possibility too. We thought about hiking up there but it was cold and we weren't that interested.
I forgot to mention the HUGE tree that fell across the approach trail to Destiny Wall.
It landed on one of the giant boulders, so it's easy to walk under.
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Monument is falling apart.
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Monument is falling apart.
Gravity like rust...never sleeps.
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Rust never sleeps is a wonderful 10a at Mickey Beach.
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It's also a Neil Young LP! Gotcha!
[ Invalid YouTube link ]
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Had a Block Party yesterday and pulled off a party of three ascent of Liebacker's Lullaby before the rain today.
Brad took 117 pics, so it may be a while before I find the ones that are juuuuust right to post. :idea:
Let it rain...
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Had a Block Party yesterday and pulled off a party of three ascent of Liebacker's Lullaby before the rain today.
Brad took 117 pics, so it may be a while before I find the ones that are juuuuust right to post. :idea:
Let it rain...
The rain gauge showed .72 inches for last night :yikes:
Here's a few shots from Liebacker's Lullaby yesterday. Photo credit goes to Brad (thanks dude).
JC midfoot on pitch 3
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49301483192_a328f4a354_z.jpg)
Tuff Chik in hot pursuit
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49301482702_12302ce148_z.jpg)
The dude abides
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49301273406_a6f21e84ee_z.jpg)
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Cool to see the pictures of you guys on the Lullaby. I was in high school when Geoff and I climbed it.
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I particularly like the aspect of this shot.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49301574397_62277d65cd_z.jpg)
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Cool to see the pictures of you guys on the Lullaby. I was in high school when Geoff and I climbed it.
That's wild clink.
It must have been a really heady lead without big cams.
Then you have to imagine Kammerlander doing it in his Hush Puppies :biggrin:
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Nice route, one of my favorites.
I was in high school when Geoff and I climbed it.
Hemp rope? Chocks and nuts?
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It was rated 5.7A2(?). We wanted aid practice and the route delivered. We didn't own ascenders, but we were pretty proficient with prusiks(say that 3 times fast). Nuts and hexentrics up to #11.
Aid climbing cracks at Pinnacles is crunchy. We figured ourselves to be bigwall climbers. Then off to the Valley we go, and get our asses handed to us. :)
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Nice clink. My bro and I hit the meadows with a #11 hex and #2 Camelot.
We climbed great white book, with sparse gear.
Fun times
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It was rated 5.7A2(?). We wanted aid practice and the route delivered.
Yep. 5.7A2 in Richards book.
Strange that he mentions jam cracks several times.
Head? Leg? Body jams?
either way the route is definitely jammin' :arf:
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Head? Leg? Body jams?
Geoff almost completely disappeared into a section of the crack. I had a picture of only his lower legs showing. When I got to that spot I wondered why did he do that, but that has been the question I have asked myself many times through the years of knowing Geoff.
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That route looks sweet!!! Adding that to the short list.
How's the PO around the base?
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No PO around the base.
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No PO around the base.
Terrible route, avoid at all costs.
Ashes to Ashes better. Although the 1st bolt is a wee bit up there.
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For those who cross the street without looking, there is Terminal Buttress.
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So true Clink!!
That Jim guy really cleaned up around that area.
Heretic is still my favorite.
PO is present.
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Got a few more bolts replaced at The Flatiron today.
Did a few there yesterday too and took a crack at Burton's Below.
Now that I know the secret to pulling the summit bulge I will go back and nail that sucker.
There's still some more work that needs to be done out there.
The plan is to get out and just climb the next few trips out.
Maybe try to get some more bolts replaced on stuff that closes before MLK Day if the weather holds.
Got to hang some with Brad, Mud, climberdude and BAP the last few days.
Happy New Year and new decade :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :arf:
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Fun at the Flatiron.
Mr Mud came over and led Angle Iron while Deb was following Burton's Below (note Mud leading on the left skyline).
Mud said Angle Iron is an impressive FA and a nice, sporty climb.
Burton's Below climbs really nice through the lower crux and the last replacement lead bolt at the upper crux is juicy (thanks Brad).
I spent too much time trying to find the holds on the upper crux and took a long lead fall.
Maybe the third time will be a charm.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49317267873_8dd37a84a0_z.jpg)
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I had fun out there. I had forgotten how sporty Angle Iron is. I really did not think I could pull the beginning moves. Enjoyed checking out Feather Canyon area and getting some top ropes in on Tuff Dome.
I managed to get some PO on my forearm that bubbled up nicely.
Happy New Year everyone.
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I managed to get some PO on my forearm that bubbled up nicely.
Oh no! Sorry to hear that. Hopefully they don't spread too much.
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Mr Mud, pee on blisters.
It will help clean the blisters.
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I had fun out there. I had forgotten how sporty Angle Iron is. I really did not think I could pull the beginning moves. Enjoyed checking out Feather Canyon area and getting some top ropes in on Tuff Dome.
I managed to get some PO on my forearm that bubbled up nicely.
Happy New Year everyone.
Huh, interesting... I remember onsighting Angle Iron some years ago and felt like it was a rather scary lead - the moves early on the climb freaked me out. I can't say I've had a strong desire to try lead climbing that again. I will agree that it is an impressive FA!
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rather scary
Here's something scary :yesnod: :thumbup: :yikes:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49320336987_f386f5ec08_z.jpg)
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Thankfully that was not one of the lead bolts for Angle Iron.
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Thankfully that was not one of the lead bolts for Angle Iron.
Huh?
Dude, it sounds like you were off route.
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Goals are nice. Maybe even failing at a goal now and then so that when you succeed...
SWEET EFFORT MAN!
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Aim low!!!
Over achieve low expectations.
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I had fun out there. I had forgotten how sporty Angle Iron is. I really did not think I could pull the beginning moves.
Damn impressive. All I could hear was you breathing below as I worked on the summit anchor.
clink told me the whole story about bolting that climb on lead last night. Good story (he should tell it).
He said he was climbing hard 11's and pushing into the 12's when he established that route.
I feel lucky as hell to be climbing with you guys :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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Thankfully that was not one of the lead bolts for Angle Iron.
It's replaced now along with quite a few others at The Flatiron.
I'll update the Master List today and probably do some more work out there in the near future.
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Angle Iron could have been named Fear and Trepidation. But for Waldo's calming encouragement, I might have shook off the third bolt stance. Bit off more than we could chew, yet somehow managed to choke down that drilling.
Waldo fell off while drilling the second bolt from stance and got a little banged and bloodied up. Half of the third bolt stance crumbled off as soon as the bolt was clipped.
Wonderful memories of climbing ventures with Waldo.
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Angle Iron could have been named Fear and Trepidation. But for Waldo's calming encouragement, I might have shook off the third bolt stance. Bit off more than we could chew, yet somehow managed to choke down that drilling.
Waldo fell off while drilling the second bolt from stance and got a little banged and bloodied up. Half of the third bolt stance crumbled off as soon as the bolt was clipped.
Wonderful memories of climbing ventures with Waldo.
I particularly liked the part about going for that hold to get to the bolt 3 stance and being totally strung out from the distance to the last bolt with 3 fingers behind a flake and barely able to hold the end of the bit to get the hole going.
And if that wasn't enough...continuing on to drill the last two bolts even though you were completely gassed.
channeling your inner Holmgren dude :thumbup: :yesnod: :yikes: :ihih:
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To end the day yesterday Kat and I went to climb The Clipper.
This mini alpine-style adventure had me chuckling and grinning before, during and after.
That alone warrants a star.
On the prow of The Clipper
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49328215091_82f5cea162_z.jpg)
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Spent the day with Brad and T doing new routes at The Dispensary.
Had some fun and some mini adventures.
I'll post a pic or two later.
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Angle Iron could have been named Fear and Trepidation. But for Waldo's calming encouragement, I might have shook off the third bolt stance. Bit off more than we could chew, yet somehow managed to choke down that drilling.
Waldo fell off while drilling the second bolt from stance and got a little banged and bloodied up. Half of the third bolt stance crumbled off as soon as the bolt was clipped.
Wonderful memories of climbing ventures with Waldo.
Clink, your skill and endurance on that lead humble me still. You were great and that was one of my best climbing days ever! Am I hallucinating, or did Larry Arthur come poking around that day?
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Speaking of Larry, I’ve been meaning to call up Mtn Tools...
“Can you tell Larry a customer is asking for a harness that won’t shrink!!”
I’m sure he’d get a chuckle out of it.
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I saw Larry a few days ago. He is still healing from the dog attack. Going to be some time, I hope he gets close to full use of his hands and wrists. He was in good spirits and I know he wants to get back on his projects!
Waldo, he is not a ghost, as far as I can tell. His eyes sparkle when he talks about climbing.
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I saw Larry a few days ago. He is still healing from the dog attack. Going to be some time, I hope he gets close to full use of his hands and wrists. He was in good spirits and I know he wants to get back on his projects!
Waldo, he is not a ghost, as far as I can tell. His eyes sparkle when he talks about climbing.
That is terrible to hear about Larry. I had no idea his injuries were so bad.
Let's all keep a good thought for him :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
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Spent the day with Brad and T doing new routes at The Dispensary.
Had some fun and some mini adventures.
I'll post a pic or two later.
Route descriptions are in the grist mill (visions of Brad at the wheel grinding them out). :out:
We started the day with a first ascent of a squeeze chimney (thanks Brad). It's 50 feet long, has good rock and good pro and joins Up in Smoke for its second pitch. Really fun (never thought I'd say that about a squeeze chimney).
Moonshiner's Chimney 5.5
I'll nominate it for a star but that is of course debatable.
Here I am taking a nice rest and choosing a piece of gear
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49340882403_5626e44742_z.jpg)
Brad and Tricia had to leave afterwards, so we set our sights on some new routes Brad climbed between Christmas and New Years with climberdude
Bibulous Bluff Class Four*
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49341333466_487996f849_z.jpg)
Deb leads Bibulous Bluff (we all took turns leading it). The rope will only "work" if you fall off the left side.
It reminded me of Over Easy or Scrambled at Granny's Kitchen. It ends at that big knob.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49341333721_c2014798c7_z.jpg)
Deb and I both led Mescaline Mound 5.2, then downclimbed. It wasn't very photogenic.
We ended the day at Illicit Chimney Dome 5.4
It's a bit downhill from the other Dispensary choices.
Here is a shot from above - mostly obscured by trees. A loose, unprotected squeeze chimney leads to a slingable sub summit and a step across to the main formation and highest summit. A big slingable bump on that side provides more lead pro if desired (double length sling), a belay anchor and a nice spot to set up a Pinns rappel.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49341333261_21c99b119f_z.jpg)
Me and Deb on top. She is on the main summit and I am at the belay bump.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49341333516_f7c7835ef6_z.jpg)
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I have a belay bump, been feasting over the holidays.
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I had no idea Larry had been injured. Hope he heals up well.
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I have a belay bump, been feasting over the holidays.
You'd never get in the squeeze chimney...much less up it :lol: :prrr:
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You'd never get in the squeeze chimney...much less up it :lol: :prrr:
In fact...I'll take it one step further and DARE YOU to come out climbing with me :idea: :ciappa:
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^^^
You gotta do what he does with his cheeseburgers....
Make it a double.
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^^^
You gotta do what he does with his cheeseburgers....
Make it a double.
Or just inhale. I've had cheeseburgers in the past...but I never inhaled.
That was actually my next move but he must already be in the tub...with bubbles :yesnod: :lol: :yikes:
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Or just inhale. I've had cheeseburgers in the past...but I didn't inhale.
That was actually my next move but he must already be in the tub...with bubbles :yesnod: :lol: :yikes:
And what is the source of these bubbles?
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This too shall pass.
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I am now a movable anchor.
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This too shall pass.
When pigs fly. :ciappa:
I am now a movable anchor.
Some things can't be fixed :out: :prrr:
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I was out on the west side yesterday and found some unwanted surprises (not to mention some pretty hideous rock on the route I was trying to get going). The start is a hard boulder problem and I'm not sure the holds or the rock quality are enough to support the moves that need to be made to free it.
Abandon city? Sally forth and it's A1 until someone frees it? So many questions :idea: :out:
On the way up Juniper Canyon I was greeted by teepee strewn across the hillside. There was more higher up and yes...a pile of poop...with a little more teepee and a few rocks piled on top - all about 5 minutes from the bathroom.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49357694646_25132c06cb_z.jpg)
I cleaned it up and took it back down to the bathroom where I discovered that in addition to one broken faucet in the men's room (it's been broken for weeks) there was also no soap. The women's bathroom also had a broken faucet and no soap. Put on your best Seinfield face "REALLY"? No soap for you.
Making my way back up the trail I was greeted by this at the creek crossing (yes, that's sharpie)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49357897942_34341c1994_z.jpg)
Later, as I worked fiendishly, an older couple passed on the trail above me walking a small white dog.
They were gone long enough that they probably hiked all the way to the outhouse and back.
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Thanks for your work JC. That sharpie on the rock sucks
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Wish the park service had the resources to track that puke down.
As for your cleanup efforts? How's the saying go: "you're a better man than I Gunga Din?" Thanks for doing it, I'm not sure I could or would have.
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Wish the park service had the resources to track that puke down.
As for your cleanup efforts? How's the saying go: "you're a better man than I Gunga Din?" Thanks for doing it, I'm not sure I could or would have.
We need CCTV on every formation.
The strewn teepee did not appear to be used and I was able to use some paper towels I had in my pocket to stuff it into baggies - then promptly took it to the trash can and washed my hands wish soap residue I scraped off the dispensers in the bathrooms.
I thought maybe those vandals actually signed a last name but taking a closer look it appears they all thought it was cute to just sign their first names separated by dots.
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Thanks for your work JC. That sharpie on the rock sucks
Is there some way to get that stuff off there?
Sand it off maybe - with some emery cloth?
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When I've seen very obvious sharpie or spray paint graffiti I have resorted to using a drill bit or chisel to hammer and chip off the writing. I haven't found any other effective way to mask the graffiti (without putting more paint on the rock). I feel like it is worth the effort to remove the temptation from other visitors to add their own writing / drawings.
If you don't feel comfortable removing the graffiti yourself, I can try to get to it in the near future with a uniform on. (I should be heading to the west side on Monday to meet up with Brad.) But I think you would be totally justified in saying you were volunteering to remove graffiti, if any visitors ask.
Otherwise - thanks for your efforts removing the TP, John!
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The women's bathroom also had a broken faucet and no soap.
OMG you were in the women's room!? If you'd been caught your Seinfield moment could have turned more Curb-like.
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JC, always remember, it is bad etiquette to wipe yourself on the flap of your host's tipi.
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Thank you for the clean up.
speechless on the sharpie action. Would like to be 30 again and have an opportunity to run into them in action.
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Went to the east side yesterday and took our friend Deb up Portent.
I never will get used to that solid rock or actually trusting holds.
Deb said she didn't like how smooth so many of the holds are.
That rock is no doubt etched from the acid in skin oils and all the traffic over the years.
I told her to watch out for slippery slopers in particular. Deb obviously prefers crud. :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
I have to say I was a bit irritated to find single screwlinks on all 4 mid-station anchor bolts. The stainless replacement bolts Bruce and I installed at both stations (one at each) a few years ago had loose hangers. This was no doubt a result of people lowering, toproping or rappelling off those anchors. I don't think people understand the twisting, inward forces they generate when doing this and without my bolt kit, I had no way to get the hangers tight again. It also leaves less room in the hangers for people to clip in or forces them to clip sub standard materials (the links rather than the hangers). :frown2: :madmax:
Oh well...I still enjoyed the climb.
We went out to Tiburcio's to do Bandit Chimney and I was really disappointed to find the opening completely blocked by PO. This route has been declared Cook-proof until further notice. I was all ready to practice my chimney skills too :crying:
I climbed Side Saddle. It has a cool pin (did I say that?). It appeared to be a Lost Arrow type design but with a rectangular eye (I've never seen one of those before). The slanting horizontal crack allows a lot of good gear placements (cams to 1 1/2 inches and tricams). You can sew it up for yourself and your follower.
Deb TRed Cross Your Heart after we rapped from that anchor. Brad - is that the route that knob on your office shelf came from?
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I have to say I was a bit irritated to find single screwlinks on all 4 mid-station anchor bolts. The stainless replacement bolts Bruce and I installed at both stations (one at each) a few years ago had loose hangers. This was no doubt a result of people lowering, toproping or rappelling off those anchors. I don't think people understand the twisting, inward forces they generate when doing this and without my bolt kit, I had no way to get the hangers tight again. It also leaves less room in the hangers for people to clip in or forces them to clip sub standard materials (the links rather than the hangers). :frown2: :madmax:
The massive masses don't see anything but bolts. They're there and how that occurred or what will happen to them after this use isn't on their radar.
The way it is and the way it will always be.
We went out to Tiburcio's to do Bandit Chimney and I was really disappointed to find the opening completely blocked by PO. This route has been declared Cook-proof until further notice. I was all ready to practice my chimney skills too :crying:
Damn dude, poison oak is nothing but a state of mind. Get past it.
Brad - is that the route that knob on your office shelf came from?
Guidebooks shelf at home:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49368362521_db77c55878_c.jpg)
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I climbed Side Saddle. It has a cool pin (did I say that?). It appeared to be a Lost Arrow type design but with a rectangular eye (I've never seen one of those before).
Yup, you said it. 'bout time.
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The massive masses don't see anything but bolts. They're there and how that occurred or what will happen to them after this use isn't on their radar. The way it is and the way it will always be.
You're right and that is why I am about done with route maintenance. I'll still do what I can though
Damn dude, poison oak is nothing but a state of mind. Get past it.
Says the guy who pushed past it because he doesn't get it. No route is worth it to me. It could be the best route on the planet and I wouldn't do it.
Guidebooks shelf at home:
Picky picky picky - okay then - At your home "office".
You didn't answer my question. Plausible deniability?
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^^^
Sure I answered. A "yes" was plainly implied in my response.
Yep, took a 15 footer when that one cut loose.. Mid 1990s.
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Yup, you said it. 'bout time.
Says the guy who can drill a bolt in the time it takes to place a pin.
We can have this debate ad infinitum
I will agree that pins can be cool, sometimes historic and have their place but they are expensive (not supplied by the ASCA) and can be difficult or impossible to replace at Pinns. When they do finally get loose and come out (as just happened on Jorgie's Crack) or need to be replaced because of age, the placement may be lost because of the rock quality and I for one am not paying to replace them at $15 to $20 each.
I mainly do not like them from a rebolting perspective and that will never change.
They're there and what will happen to them after this use isn't on their radar.
::) :out: :smilewinkgrin:
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^^^
Sure I answered. A "yes" was plainly implied in my response.
Yep, took a 15 footer when that one cut loose.. Mid 1990s.
For some reason I thought that was from Coyote Ugly.
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...I will agree that pins can be cool, sometimes historic and have their place but they are expensive (not supplied by the ASCA) and can be difficult or impossible to replace at Pinns. When they do finally get loose and come out (as just happened on Jorgie's Crack) or need to be replaced because of age, the placement may be lost because of the rock quality and I for one am not paying to replace them at $15 to $20 each.
Damn dude, money is nothing but a state of mind. Get past it.
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Damn dude, money is nothing but a state of mind. Get past it.
I've read the book How Not to Give a F&%k.
Maybe I missed the take home points.
Besides...I thought money grew on trees... :idea: :ihih:
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Besides...I thought money grew on trees... :idea: :ihih:
That only happens for kids nowadays. People aged 30 and 29 who post on this site for example. Absolutely swimming in easily-made money. Rich beyond our imaginations.
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People aged 30 and 29 who post on this site for example. Absolutely swimming in easily-made money. Rich beyond our imaginations.
Not true....our generation is currently feeling a little fucked by the enormous rise in asset prices as a result of financial stimulation after the "great recession". Try buying a house today in Santa Cruz as a 29 or 30 year old....
In BETTER news, word on the street is there is a new 3 star 5.11a at discovery wall. A new route at discovery?!?! It may not be the golden age at Pinns anymore, but it's certainly still the silver age!
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Damn a new 11a on Discovery, well done to whom established it.
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In BETTER news, word on the street is there is a new 3 star 5.11a at discovery wall. A new route at discovery?!?! It may not be the golden age at Pinns anymore, but it's certainly still the silver age!
Yeah, but seriously, who's got the dreadlocks, you or Gavin?
I don't think so....
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In BETTER news, word on the street is there is a new 3 star 5.11a at discovery wall. A new route at discovery?!?!
A campus of Wet Kiss?
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Not true....our generation is currently feeling a little fucked by the enormous rise in asset prices as a result of financial stimulation after the "great recession". Try buying a house today in Santa Cruz as a 29 or 30 year old....
And, as you know, my post was deeply sarcastic. Yeah, you guys have it tougher than we did. At least financially.
Maybe the phrase should be a very sarcastic "thanks Boomer," instead of just "OK boomer?"
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LOL :lol:
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Yeah, but seriously, who's got the dreadlocks, you or Gavin?
Did you get the name?
I need to go back and work on it. The crux up on buffalo soldier is tough. Especially after doing the harder new start. I almost got it clean on follow but had to hang and got super pumped at the crux. The route is really fun with the added climbing. Makes for a sustained climb, with a couple good rests.
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^^^
Que Todd Rundgren's "I'm in the Clique"
Which I clearly am not :lol:
Yeah, but seriously, who's got the dreadlocks, you or Gavin?
briham has goldilocks and Gavin?...well... :devildevil:
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Did you get the name?
I need to go back and work on it. The crux up on buffalo soldier is tough. Especially after doing the harder new start. I almost got it clean on follow but had to hang and got super pumped at the crux. The route is really funny with the added climbing. Makes for a sustained climb, with a couple good rests.
Buffalo Soldier is borderline "R" as it is. Nice job to you two.
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I have a feeling a number of people reading the last several posts may be a bit confused and wondering, "What the heck are folks talking about with a new route at Discovery Wall?"
I had been eyeing a more direct (and difficult) start to Buffalo Soldier for some time. Brian and I had originally intended to do some climbing at the Yaks today, but the weird weather - drizzly fog in the morning - made us switch course and try for finishing the new line at Discovery Wall instead. We were able to get the FA done today; my draft route description is below (which Brad will post in the next few days when he's had a chance to review it). It turned out well and is a really fun, sustained line. It feels like a more natural way of moving into the crux sequences of Buffalo Soldier after a bunch of sustained 5.10 below, and now makes it possible for climbing parties to independently climb Ordeal and the new route at the same time, to separate anchors.
The route name refers to the follow-up line in the Bob Marley song.
Here is the description:
83.5 Dreadlock Rasta 5.11a *** This route starts 15 feet right of Ordeal, and serves as a more direct and difficult start leading to the crux sequences of Buffalo Soldier. Four bolts move through 45 feet of excellent and sustained sequences on great rock before moving into the shallow dihedral of Buffalo Soldier, finishing with the crack (with options for medium to large cams) and remaining four bolts on the latter climb. 100 feet, 8 bolts, cams (1-3 inch) between 4th and 5th bolts. FA Party: Gavin Emmons and Brian Hamilton. FA Date: January 11, 2020.
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Ha! Buffalo Solder is my favorite route. Cool you guys got a direct start.
Wtf where was Mr Mud? He usually had shit like this in his head.
Good job!
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Amber came out climbing with us yesterday.
These photos had me and Kat laughing last night.
Hopefully they'll also give you a chuckle :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49380958476_0993a71614_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49381153332_f323a0528b_z.jpg)
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Nice photos. I should had gone with you guys instead.
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Nice photos. I should had gone with you guys instead.
I didn't think of that. I could have belayed Brad on the new route and you and Amber could have taken turns.
Oh well...It is the year of hindsight :lol: :yesnod: :biggrin:
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We got out each day for the Inn at Pinnacles yearly weekend.
Friday was no climbing (with all the rain Thursday) but I did get that graffiti removed on the Juniper Canyon trail.
Kat and I hiked the Upper Balconies trail and then walked below the wall from Lava Falls to Knifeblade Direct and looped back down. Lava Falls and Shake and Bake were running water and each of them got us a bit as we passed beneath. I felt like I was getting away with something as we walked below the area to the right of there, where all the rock has already fallen away - with much more to happen...not a matter of if but when.
Saturday we looked at a few things that were still wet and decided to top out a new pinnacle. The Honey Pot.
The route can stay under wraps, since the area will be under closures after today.
Yesterday we climbed a few new things and a few old favorites.
We opted out today, after 3 days of gloom and more of the same forecast.
The rest of the crowd stayed another night but I imagine they are either headed home or not far from leaving by now.
BAP remarked yesterday (when we reached Scout Peak) that she had sweat in her eye :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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The Honey Pot in all its glory.
So glad the route went on gear only (except an anchor bolt).
The route (Pooh Corner) is around to the left and can't be seen in this picture.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49416954471_72a214b617_z.jpg)
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And one half-sentence doesn’t even begin to describe what John did to remove that graffiti. It basically cost him most of a day. And the quality of his work was so incredible that, even though I’d seen the graffiti more than once, the next time I walked past it I was only pretty sure I could remember which rock it had been on. Thanks for the effort, J.C.
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And one half-sentence doesn’t even begin to describe what John did to remove that graffiti. It basically cost him most of a day. And the quality of his work was so incredible that, even though I’d seen the graffiti more than once, the next time I walked past it I was only pretty sure I could remember which rock it had been on. Thanks for the effort, J.C.
Thanks. Glad to do it.
I thought about signing my name to the work after it was done. :arf:
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Nice work removing the graffiti, John - your efforts are much appreciated!
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The follies of JC and KC, mating in the High Peaks.
Any documentation of this?
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The follies of JC and KC, mating in the High Peaks.
Any documentation of this?
I think you have taken care of mating duties for the entire human race.
That was domesticated.
This was wild.
The male came in first and nearly landed on our heads. Kat shrieked and so did he, as he veered and landed on the adjacent summit. The female came in next and while I was rappelling, the male started his "dance" and then proceeded with the ritual.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49439368901_53d3649c9e_z.jpg)
Talk about a public display :redface:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49439397906_afe7dceb15_z.jpg)
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Condor style.
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Condor style.
The noises they were making were bizarre.
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The last couple days climbing were interesting and yesterday was phenomenal.
Thursday we went to do a couple of Brad's new routes. The Missing Link was particularly interesting.
The first pitch is "only" class four but really cool. It leads to a short, steep streak that is likely one of the best protected 5.9's at Pinnacles. The clips are right where you want them and the main crux is quite tricky. The sub crux (past bolt 3) is a little easier but no picnic either - you can high clip both cruxes. :thumbup:
Here's a shot of me getting through the main crux past bolt 2
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49439939532_f113ba9d94_z.jpg)
Yesterday I finally got on Long's Folly Regular Route. I have looked at this thing more times than I can remember. I told myself when I was psyching up to get on lead that it was easier than what I did the day before (little did I know). After you clip bolt 3 and move around the arete to clip bolt 4 and get in the water chute it is game on and the clock is ticking. The feet are good but the bulge pushes you out just enough that it is hard to hang on to a limited selection of not-so-good hand holds. The result - forearms flaming as you lean slightly back, trying to figure out the hands. I stepped down several times and was able to shake out one arm at a time but I knew I was in trouble. The good looking knobs are all polished and have no positive edges so they were worthless for me. I settled on a 5.9+/5.10 crimper for the left hand (fading fast) and a push down for the right hand (classic Pinns maneuver). I barely pulled it off before my grip was going to fail.
Ratings are so difficult to define. The 5.9 I had done the day before had good feet and wasn't pushing me out much, so I had time to stand there and really suss the moves out before committing. Now compare the 5.8 on Long's Folly to the 5.8 on Sombrero. Sombrero has you throwing sequential moves in a continuous fashion and if you don't hit everything just right or don't know how to hit the holds, you won't pull it off. The beauty of that one is you can easily start over from the ground (it took me three tries to unlock it and get it clean). Long's Folly makes you feel like you are dangling out in space and feels really exposed (thank goodness for the high clip) while you are trying to keep your balance and find the right holds. Maybe knowing what I know now would make it easier - maybe not. Either way it has a high thrill factor. The 5th bolt protects moves up into the the chimney nicely and you can get a good #3 camalot in not long after you get in. If I climbed it again, I would take a #5 and #6 camalot too. The chimney climbing is cool, with several good rests, decent rock with some features and the flare isn't too awkward.
High in the chimney on Long's Folly (I have always called it the Butt Crack)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49439242193_989d195dd6_z.jpg)
The rest of the day was unusually good. The weather, the people we ran into and the 10 or 12 condors circling (plus the two mating) all combined to make a superbly memorable outing.
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High in the chimney on Long's Folly (I have always called it the Butt Crack)
Appropriate since I almost got mine handed to me :yikes:
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Fantastic pictures!
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That was domesticated.
This was wild.
I would figure that all of the posters on this site have had sex at Pinnacles, even if somewhat domesticated. There are so many private places, hidden alcoves. Tick checks getting carried away...
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I would figure that all of the posters on this site have had sex at Pinnacles, even if somewhat domesticated. There are so many private places, hidden alcoves. Tick checks getting carried away...
If they had, I would imagine it would be Unmentionable.
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If they had, I would imagine it would be Unmentionable.
Yep, I half expected Noal to post up a video of Simon and Garfunkel's Sound of Silence, but he instead, has been using all his spare time searching the internet for "his and hers" condor outfits.
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I bet Clink was conceived at the Pinnacles.
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Nope, Anchorage, AK.
Earthquakes, my dad was spending a lot of time with bush pilots, mom was a nurse, small apartment.
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Nope, Anchorage, AK.
Earthquakes, my dad was spending a lot of time with bush pilots, mom was a nurse, small apartment.
The part about you Dad does not come across quite right.
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I know, but there are pics and super8 movies, so validated.
My folks are flying in to San Jose Saturday afternoon. I'll have to ask for Alaska stories.
My dad was there for the big quake in 64. They were married in Ohio in July 64 and drove a VW beetle to Anchorage. A couple years ago they did a 100 plus day roadtrip. They have always had a sense of adventure.
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Most Alaska folks are not quite right, but that what makes the state entertaining.
Anchorage is kinda like Alaska, just not a cold as Fairbanks.
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There you go again, russian to conclusions.
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Went out with Kat, Craig and Deb today. We stopped by The Flatiron first and I led Mungy Bulgy while Deb led the 5.0 Apron Route to practice placing some gear.
We went to climb the route I rebolted on Tuesday at The Fingers next.
Condor 0 landed and stayed for a while on one of the boulders across from the base of The Fingers.
Kat said she counted 11 while we were at the Flatiron. :thumbup: :biggrin:
The wind was blowing pretty good today (periodically) and the overcast was keeping things pretty chilly again.
I was noticing how low some of the clouds were while I was belaying everybody up the route.
Next thing I knew - thick fog rolled in but only lasted about an hour. It stayed just long enough to chill us down and boy oh boy was that wind cold. We all rapped off and packed up. By the time we were near Voyeur Wall - it was clear. We saw strange little pockets of knee-high fog in the fields on the way home. Weird day.
Supposed to be super nice the next few days and then temps will dip again. What a tease :madmax: :madman: :incazzato:
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Here's a couple pics of North Finger-East Edge 5.7R (courtesy of Deb Collins)
Stretching it out on lead with extreme care (in the runout between bolt 2 and the midway anchor).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49470514852_cc621b9492_z.jpg)
Kat follows (her head is about 6 feet below the midway anchor). I decided to lead the route in one pitch, once I reached the mid anchor.
Pitch 2 does a hand traverse along the crack protected by gear. Very committing from the anchor.
Linking the pitches is about 100 feet. Gear to 3 inches.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49470292496_02f03a4dab_z.jpg)
Kat raps down through the cloud_fog
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49470292111_0b4fec82f6_z.jpg)
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Good pic of Kat
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yeah, said it on bookfart too, but like that pic of the blue on gray of kat.
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It’s a good shot.
That’s why we used to wear bright colors.
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Good pic of Kat
Thanks guys! I was having a really fun day on the rocks and the picture shows it.
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I had the pleasure of leading two of the finest climbs I have ever done at Pinns on Saturday with Gavin.
No pictures but lots of good memories and climbs that I will go back to repeat.
They are both super fun and completely different from each other.
We warmed up on Ham Sandwich 9* - fun but not on the same level as the other two we did. It's a nice chimney (not squeezy) to face route with a sub crux after you transition onto the lower face (felt 5.8 to me) and a second bouldery 5.9 crux up high.
Swine Flue 10a** is three stars in my book. It starts by climbing Pockety Peccary 5.7* (two stars imo) up a fairly friendly squeeze chimney - with a plethora of amazing pockets in great rock - to a wild and well protected stemming section that allows you to commit over to the final steep section. I did a full body stem after getting the bolt on the back wall clipped - to rearrange my feet and reset - for the committing move over. If you stem up high enough and have the reach - there is a big lodestone with a hidden incut that makes the move across really fun - followed by some steep and sustained stemming up and over a lip.
I can't say enough about Dances With Warthogs 10a***
It is full on face climbing with a pumpy start on amazingly hard, featured rock. There is a good rest past the initial pumpy section (1st 3 bolts), where you can rest and regroup before casting off on the long, steep face that just keeps on giving.
This is one climb that has to be experienced to be believed.
I put a #1 and #2 camalot side by side in the upper pocket (there are 2 obvious pockets) to protect the moves to the first bolt.
I was super intimidated by the start but it is so good when you get up there... :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
The consistent quality of the rock and the variety of the holds throughout the whole climb are just so good - it seems like a dream.
I've said it before but I'll say it again - thanks! - and hats off to you Gavin (and briham) - incredible work guys.
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Thanks for the praise, John - I agree that they are very good routes indeed. As mentioned when we were chatting / climbing on Saturday, I drilled / bolted Swine Flue on solo lead - maintaining those wild stems while drilling the two protection bolts on the crossover from one wall to the other was crazy, especially since I was cranking through that route in July and August!
For those that are interested, here are a couple photos (courtesy of Alacia) of me leading through the wild stemming crux on Swine Flue, a couple years ago:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49483734677_27a32e6c14_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49483523881_cb2a5e8388_c.jpg)
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Nice job on the climbs John!
Gavin was the mastermind of this area (and did quite a few routes solo, once it got hot and my focus shifted to the Sierra ::) ). The whole time we were establishing routes I kept thinking, HOW HAVE THESE NOT BEEN CLIMBED YET?!
Funny note about Dances With Warthogs...I was on lead bolting a new climb around the corner (Razorback 5.11a ***), and Gavin had tied me off to a tree while bolting so he didn't have to just sit there and wait. In between hammering away I heard Gavin around the corner yell...."OH MY GOD!!!" I yelled out to Gavin to see what was going on. He said something along the lines of, "stop everything!!! We are doing this first!!!" That was after he felt some of the rock and saw the line for Dances. I came down saw the line and said yep!
I'm glad you enjoyed it. It's easily (IMO) the best FA I've been a part of at Pinnacles.
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Nice job on the climbs John!
I'm glad you enjoyed it. It's easily (IMO) the best FA I've been apart of at Pinnacles.
Thanks dude.
I didn't just enjoy them - I savored them! Kind of like some crispy, tasty bacon after a long hiatus :lol:
Gavin told me that story.
I would bet that Dances is quite possibly one of the best routes at Pinnacles - period.
Thanks for the praise, John - I agree that they are very good routes indeed.
maintaining those wild stems while drilling the two protection bolts on the crossover from one wall to the other was crazy
For those that are interested, here are a couple photos
You both deserve the praise.
It is interesting to take another look at the photos - since I just wrote about it in my climbing log.
I was in the same position until I did the full body stem to switch feet and kept bumping up even higher before latching on to that big lodestone with my left hand to commit over (you can see it in both pictures - it's straight left of your left hand in the 2nd photo). The protection isn't just superb...it's exquisite :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
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I can't say enough about Dances With Warthogs 10a***
Me too. I love that route! Thank you Gavin and Brian!
Swine Flu looks fabulous but I don't think my legs are long enough to make that "step over" or "stem" move.
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Me too. I love that route! Thank you Gavin and Brian!
Swine Flu looks fabulous but I don't think my legs are long enough to make that "step over" or "stem" move.
Gavin said the shortest person to follow it was 5 foot 4. She is long-legged (I know her) with evidently limber legs.
I felt at the limit of my stemming ability. I've gotten a bit more limber from doing yoga :biggrin:
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I will bring a 2x4 when :P I go there, I will pretend the name of the climb is "Walking the Plank" :P
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"Walking the Plank variation"
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I will bring a 2x4 when :P I go there, I will pretend the name of the climb is "Walking the Plank" :P
You're gonna need a bigger plank :yesnod: :lol: :devildevil:
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John,
Give me the measurement, I will ask our shop to make one for me. >:D
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John,
Give me the measurement, I will ask our shop to make one for me. >:D
Just get Brad to stand in there and you can pretend he is a tree (all holds are ON!)
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Mono :puke:
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We climbed an amazing route today. I led it, then dropped the rope and BAP got on the sharp end. We both thoroughly enjoyed it and Kat dug following it. Fifty Meter Must 5.7R* on The Thumb. It reminded me a lot of the Salathe routes and variations on The Hand. Every bit as good as Salathe - with features everywhere (great rock), steep climbing plus breathtaking exposure and runouts. Absolutely worth more than one star (The Thumb Regular Route gets two stars and this route puts that one to shame). I'll vote for three stars... I have talked to several other folks who think it is a great route too.
Should I start a poll? Fifty Meter Must 5.7R***
The topo shows a kooky path from the 3rd to the 4th bolts (imo). There are knobs everywhere that allow you to move more or less straight up (several were good enough to sling) and there was never a point where I stopped and said hmmmm...this must be the crux. I'd be okay dropping the grade to 6 and BAP and KC agreed.
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I woke up thinking of routes that I can compare Fifty Meter Must to quality-wise.
Three came to mind immediately and these are all great routes in their own right.
Pay Dirt, Glory Days and Shades of Jade.
Fifty Meter Must is 115 feet of climbing to the lip (on amazing knobs the whole way) - plus 15 more feet of walking back to the anchor - total 130 feet and it just keeps on giving. Did I mention it has amazing knobs?
Knobs...
Man...I wish I had done that FA - a Kammerlander classic :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :arf:
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^^^
Pretty sure you climbed it wrong.
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^^^
Pretty sure you climbed it wrong.
ESAD
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Getting started on Fifty Meter Must
Did I mention this thing has knobs? And this is just the start.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49510567308_b5bbb11b29_z.jpg)
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ESAD
Yeah, yeah. But the instructions on this one couldn't be much clearer.
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Yeah, yeah. But the instructions on this one couldn't be much clearer.
I climbed the route in excellent style, clipped all the bolts and thoroughly enjoyed it.
I had Tom Petty's song - Won't Back Down playing in my head the whole time.
If that is wrong then everything I do must be wrong.
When in doubt, I follow the line of least resistance and the best features and rock.
Besides...someone once told me you can't direct climbers.
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And how long was your rope?
The instructions on this one couldn't be any clearer....
Rupert might be turning in his grave.
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The route was first described in Gagner's book (no topo).
His description says...
Climb diagonally up and right past two bolts.
Higher is another bolt where a move downwards to the right leads to the exposed NE corner.
Climb the near vertical wall above moving left to another bolt directly above the last one.
Finish up and left past one more bolt to the top.
Gagner had it at 5.6
Bruce and Clint removed all the old bolts in April of 2019. The Merry Cranksters replaced the old bolts in the 90's (with wedge bolts) but left the old bolts intact (in lodestones). I wasn't looking for evidence of the old bolts. I'm sure when I climb it again (and I will because it's so damn good) I'll do some looking - since I know what to expect now.
As far as the detour to the right on the topo that first appears in Rubine's book and again in the current guide (way out right, then up to a big knob and way back left), there was no reason or any need to go out that way.
The face above is irresistibly good.
I had the topo in my pocket and got it out several times during the climb.
From the third bolt, I moved a little right and then up the vertical face, slinging knobs as I went - following a very natural line and a featured, steep face. I got a softball sized sling knob first and a bigger and better one a few feet higher. The stances were so good that I reached down and removed the sling from the smaller, lower knob and placed it on the higher, better knob. Did I mention that this face has a lot of knobs? From there I could see the mid anchor directly above me. It made perfect sense to go this way and absolutely no sense to traverse out into no man's land, looking for a big sling knob that I could not see on the horizon, not to mention following a circuitous path that would do nothing but introduce rope drag and provide no more meaningful pro. Sling knobs imo are virtually useless once you move above them.
I will say the one thing that is hard to find on the route is the second bolt. It can't be seen from the first bolt and after you climb up and over the headwall to a ledgy area where you expect to find the next bolt (I was logically looking on the next headwall) it is still hard to find. The bolt is way lower than expected (did Dorf place this bolt?), at about knee level (maybe lower) and it has a SMC stainless hanger that makes it even harder to find. I will make a point to replace that hanger with something else when I get back out there to work on the rappel anchor.
Rubine's decription is entertaining.
This route is very severe for its grade.
Characterized by long runouts, interspersed with crumbly rock, this thriller should be taken seriously.
A strong leader will find this climb a handful.
As Bob Dylan said...Most likely you go your way and I'll go mine :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :devildevil: :ihih:
I'm still waiting for the worm to turn...
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Hmm sounds like this needs a few more ascents to check it out.
John how is your ankle? I heard you got banged up.
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Sling knobs imo are virtually useless once you move above them.
?
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Hmm sounds like this needs a few more ascents to check it out.
John how is your ankle? I heard you got banged up.
Get out there with Gavin and climb it - it is freakin' amazingly good - so is the Burnette Variation on The Hand if you haven't done that. You and I can go climb them too - anytime dude. :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
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I think that there are plenty of lodestones and knobs at pinnacles that would hold a fall.
One thing I prefer to do when slinging stuff is to girth hitch the runner around the feature vs. Just draping over the top. This way when you are pulling up rope you do not dislodge your runner or if you fall it will cinch down on the feature and not be as likely to be pulled off.
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Sling knobs imo are virtually useless once you move above them.
?
What I meant is once you move above a sling knob - if you fall - that sling is probably going to come off as you go flying past.
Has anyone ever fallen on a sling knob after they are significantly above it? I have not and don't want to find out.
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What I meant is once you move above a sling knob - if you fall - that sling is probably going to come off as you go flying past.
Yes, that is what I thought you meant. It is more likely not to come off if you girth hitch it .
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Yes, that is what I thought you meant. It is more likely not to come off if you girth hitch it .
Maybe and maybe not.
How about a knob/lodestone that is rounded underneath but incut on top? A girth hitch coming tight would have nothing to come tight against underneath and fail.
Situationally dependent and better to make up one's mind on a case by case basis.
Note though that, like J.C., I'm NOT volunteering to test any of this.
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Maybe and maybe not.
Yes, and this why this is something that should be made on a case by case judgment.
I am only offering a alternative for JC to see that in some situations slung features can be done in a manner that will hold a fall vs an across the board feeling (by just looping a runner over a feature) that climbing above something slung will never hold a fall.
I am not not at home and cannot look at my book but isn't this shit covered in Robbins basic rockcraft?
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climbing above something slung will never hold a fall.
shit covered?
I never say never.
Are we on the wrong thread DUMP?
By the way, I for got to compliment you on getting two list related good burns in one short post.
All the pages in the back with the little blank square boxes next to the route name get wiped first. What's next......
You lost me on the screenshot of gold though... :idea:
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Can you spare a square? No. There are none.
Anyhow, just trying to give you another arrow in your quiver. Not trying to have a mt. Project debate.
The screenshot gold was at one point the whole board was "where to take a dump" which was pretty funny to see.
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Can you spare a square? No. There are none.
Anyhow, just trying to give you another arrow in your quiver. Not trying to have a mt. Project debate.
The screenshot gold was at one point the whole board was "where to take a dump" which was pretty funny to see.
I simply cannot spare a square.
What? I loves me a good debate :prrr:
No poop for you Plop Daddy! :ciappa:
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The screenshot gold was at one point the whole board was "where to take a dump" which was pretty funny to see.
Nice. I'm glad the grownups were preoccupied.
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Bastards!
Bumped my pointless thread down with 1/2 meaningful words.
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Bastards!
Bumped my pointless thread down with 1/2 meaningful words.
that's Inglorious Basterds to you :out: :prrr:
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Should I start a poll? Fifty Meter Must 5.7R***
I agree with JC 100%. I love that route. Although I think it is 5.6, not 5.7. But it is a great route regardless.
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I agree with JC 100%. I love that route. Although I think it is 5.6, not 5.7. But it is a great route regardless.
Agreed - 5.6R***
Either no one else on here has climbed it (except Brad 30 years ago) or they don't care :lol:
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Go climb it guys! You won't regret it. I call it AGAS - As Great AS Salathe.
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Let's try to get back to what this forum is all about...climbing.
We've been out and at it the last couple days.
Thursday I got spit off Battle Hamster and then went to climb Lost Horizons Fat Crack Finish to get my confidence back.
I forgot how much fun the first part of Lost Horizons is and the Fat Crack skips the hairy traverse on pitch one.
The Fat Crack was pretty casual (easier than expected) and the rock is really good. I placed a #3 to get started and then a #5 from a comfy stance about halfway up and a #4 for the exit moves. Standing back to look at the cliff and reading the old guide books - Fat Crack appears to be the finish that Bridwell used for Entrance. It is clearly the continuation of that crack. No matter. There are 3 fun ways to the top from the Stupendous Man anchor. Now I have done them all. It's weird to do climbs that I would actually want to go back and repeat.
It was mid afternoon by the time we finished all that and I wasn't feeling particularly spunky after taking a break and snacking. Usually by that time of day I am not up for doing anything more than fairly casual climbing. I typically get on the harder stuff earlier in the day when my energy is at its peak. I wanted to climb something else good though - so we roped up for Wet Kiss. That thing definitely had me at my limit... repeatedly...and the one arm at a time shake outs weren't allowing me to recover much. I was a bit bamboozled by the moves onto the big ledge at bolt 4. I got up all of it clean though and it is a nice route.
Yesterday we started on a new route Brad did all the work on - in the High Peaks. He hasn't published the area up there, so this may be a bit cryptic. The route follows a couple ramps. The second ramp is much more pronounced and has better rock than the first, although the first is not bad by any means. There are 3 pins on the first ramp (the 3rd pin protects the crux), a bolt where you turn the corner, a thread through and sling knob after the bolt and then a second bolt protects another 10 or so feet of difficulties - until the ramp gets easier (4th class). The route has a pretty high fright factor.
Thanks to BAP for following me.
Here's a couple pics (thanks to Kat for taking them).
Scrunching up through the crux. Kat says she has never seen me so scrunched up on a climb. The yoga must be paying dividends.The moves are not hard (5.5 or 5.6) but the nature of the climbing is very balancy and committing. It is not a route you want to fall on. clink - you probably would not like it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49538800161_17b5716c0a_z.jpg)
After clipping the first bolt and turning the corner it's still scrunchy for a bit. I'm checking out the thread through and sling knob.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49538799966_3b78d02895_z.jpg)
Making a few more delicate moves past the 2nd (and last) bolt. Once you get past the gray streak it eases.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49539321877_f30130c2d6_z.jpg)
waldo joined us to climb another new route with me, while Tuff Chik and BAP climbed Abnur Bear is Everywhere.
The new route is really fun, well protected and has lots of cool holes and pockets. It's a little bit dirty (I'd put it on the same level as The Long and the Short of It for lichen and dirt) but that did not detract from the fun for me - or anyone else. It's definitely star-worthy and two stars would not be unreasonable (providing The Long and the Short of It also gets upgraded to two stars).
Mr Boltjangles 5.8*
Kat came up with the name a while back when we were out doing some new stuff with Brad and T. We were staging and getting ready to climb and I heard a weird clinking sound. I looked over and realized it was a bolt and hanger clinking on Brad's gear and Kat immediately said Mr. Bolt Jangles.
I'll wait and let Brad publish the details since he did all the work with Peter B.
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If we get down to the nitty gritty, which looks better?
I like it as Mr. Bolt Jangles vs Mr. Boltjangles.
Anyone want to volunteer to go remove the PO from Welcome to the Machine?
The leaves are still not out.
The other chimneys that need cleared are Pillbox Crack and Bandit Chimney.
I got a chuckle out of the description and recommended gear for Nailbox Crack on mtn proj.
On rappel, try to avoid the healthy growth of poison oak at the base.
Location
At the left end of Discovery Wall, almost right above the trail intersection with the Moses Springs Trail. Look for the obvious poison oak bush.
Protection
Standard Discovery Wall rack: medium/large nuts, small/medium cams, Tecnu, Calamine lotion. Bolted rap anchor.
I used sand paper yesterday to remove some graffiti from several of the vertical sections of hand rail that lead to the Steep and Narrow. BAP lent a hand too.
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Tuff Chik and BAP quested with me today on the west side.
Brad and Vicki were in the High Peaks.
Gavin, briham and mt.reynier were out climbing somewhere.
clino rock blocked Yo-so-mighty
Did Factor go down the Tidy Bowl? :out: :prrr: :ciappa: :arf:
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I had a couple of fun climbing days as well.
On Saturday I joined Brad for a guidebook day, and we climbed at Condor Crag and then just south of Chaos Crag. We started with Adam Long's new route Condorks 5.9R *, just downhill right of Condor Condiment. The rock quality is generally very good, and it is a long single pitch at 145 feet. If Adam is amenable to it, Brad and I both felt the route could benefit from 2-3 more bolts - currently there are 25-30 foot runouts between some of the upper bolts, and I think the route would be more enjoyable with more protection. There is a lot of solid rock in the area that would be conducive to additional projects.
We then checked out a Str0m/Gilbert project near Chaos Crag, a fun 5.8 * line that has 4 bolts and a solid pocket for a #2 cam. It seems like there would be a lot of value in exploring the rock above the current bolt line, but the existing route itself is quite fun and easily accessible from the Juniper Canyon Trail.
On Sunday Whitney, Brian, and I climbed a bit at Discovery Wall - including another enjoyable run up our new route Dreadlock Rasta 5.11a *** - then hiked out to the peace and calm of Old Man. Brian and I finished the FA on a new route there - Coronary Bypass 5.10b ** - 2 weeks ago, and on Sunday Brian put in the finishing touches with an additional lead bolt and some excellent scrubbing / cleaning work on the upper face section of the climb. It is quite a fun route, and passes through some interesting and varied sequences including great stemming moves at the start and a super fun stemming and bulging crux in the middle. Stay tuned for a route description from Brad in the near future.
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Tuff Chik and BAP quested with me today on the west side.
I climbed the sweet routes Noal and I established back in October, started a new bolted route and got up the first pitch of another one on sling knobs. I'll release details when we get the rest of the work done.
JC starting around the arete on Fake Purse Ninjas 5.7*
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49549017992_1b0ac9a39b_z.jpg)
JC stemming into the sweet spot on Chubby Rain 5.8***
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49548791256_242110dfff_z.jpg)
Tuff Chik follows BAP on Chubby Rain 5.8***
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49548204273_0f163b43e2_z.jpg)
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On Saturday I joined Brad for a guidebook day, and we climbed at Condor Crag and then just south of Chaos Crag. We started with Adam Long's new route Condorks 5.9R *, just downhill right of Condor Condiment. The rock quality is generally very good, and it is a long single pitch at 145 feet. If Adam is amenable to it, Brad and I both felt the route could benefit from 2-3 more bolts - currently there are 25-30 foot runouts between some of the upper bolts, and I think the route would be more enjoyable with more protection. There is a lot of solid rock in the area that would be conducive to additional projects.
We then checked out a Str0m/Gilbert project near Chaos Crag, a fun 5.8 * line that has 4 bolts and a solid pocket for a #2 cam. It seems like there would be a lot of value in exploring the rock above the current bolt line, but the existing route itself is quite fun and easily accessible from the Juniper Canyon Trail.
Really none of my business but...
It sounds like Condorks needs a mid anchor at the 100 foot mark and a second pitch. Is there a logical spot to end a second pitch? Or a third? It would be super cool to have another route on that side that tops out.
It sounds like the Chaos Crag line (name?) needs to be extended to 100 feet, an anchor and another pitch.
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JC, perhaps we could check out the areas in question at some point and then you could get a better sense about options in person. For the Str0m/Gilbert project, I'm sure Brad will chat with Str0m and get his 2 cents... I don't want to offer anything up before then.
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JC, perhaps we could check out the areas in question at some point and then you could get a better sense about options in person. For the Str0m/Gilbert project, I'm sure Brad will chat with Str0m and get his 2 cents... I don't want to offer anything up before then.
Thanks Gavin.
That is why I prefaced with - none of my business - and debated whether or not to post my two cents.
Didn't mean to overstep.
I have plenty of other things to do.
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Chubby rain looks really cool.
It is quite a fun route, and passes through some interesting and varied sequences including great stemming moves at the start and a super fun stemming and bulging crux in the middle.
Thanks for the fun day! I would really like to get feedback from others on this route. Go climb it! It starts just to the right of Glory Days. Can't miss it.
including another enjoyable run up our new route Dreadlock Rasta 5.11a ***
This route is so good. I think it's going to take a few more laps on TR for me to get the crux dialed to lead it, but am stoked to have a new project on a really fun route.
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Chubby Rain looks really cool.
The fun factor is ridiculously fat.
We quested again yesterday.
The weather was perfect.
The PO is starting to leaf out.
Wildflowers are just beginning to bloom.
Condors were out in full force.
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Really none of my business but...
It sounds like Condorks needs a mid anchor at the 100 foot mark and a second pitch. Is there a logical spot to end a second pitch? Or a third? It would be super cool to have another route on that side that tops out.
It sounds like the Chaos Crag line (name?) needs to be extended to 100 feet, an anchor and another pitch.
John Bolte and I are considering the extra bolts idea. After the initial ascent our thoughts were of it being a pile of turds and not worth repeating. But maybe things are different now as it may have been accidentally ascended more than once... and maybe its cleaner now. No midway anchor please. This ain’t a sport climb. Bring two ropes.
Regarding a possible continuation of the route; it would be nice if John Bolte and I can have dibs on that since we’ve intended to go back but have been thwarted by the assumption that it’s was still closed every winter due to nesting. If we do put up more pitches, can we just run it out and then have some other folks fill in the gaps with extra bolts? That would surely make the first ascent much easier....
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John Bolte and I are considering the extra bolts idea. After the initial ascent our thoughts were of it being a pile of turds and not worth repeating. But maybe things are different now as it may have been accidentally ascended more than once... and maybe its cleaner now. No midway anchor please. This ain’t a sport climb. Bring two ropes.
Regarding a possible continuation of the route; it would be nice if John Bolte and I can have dibs on that since we’ve intended to go back but have been thwarted by the assumption that it’s was still closed every winter due to nesting. If we do put up more pitches, can we just run it out and then have some other folks fill in the gaps with extra bolts? That would surely make the first ascent much easier....
Definitely not a pile of turds; it's got a fair amount of good rock.
It sure doesn't appear that the good rock continues higher though.
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We quested again yesterday.
Envious, I don't mind climb it over and over again, a well deserved 3 stars climb!
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John Bolte and I are considering the extra bolts idea. After the initial ascent our thoughts were of it being a pile of turds and not worth repeating. But maybe things are different now as it may have been accidentally ascended more than once... and maybe its cleaner now. No midway anchor please. This ain’t a sport climb. Bring two ropes.
Where you been dude? Lurking in the shadows? :confused:
It must not be that bad if it got a star...although... :idea:
I think people have started up it thinking it is Condor Condiment (at least one party that I know of recently).
I wouldn't even think of touching the route - I was just curious - nothing more.
I was going to delete my post but Gavin had already commented on it. :madman:
Regarding a possible continuation of the route; it would be nice if John Bolte and I can have dibs on that since we’ve intended to go back but have been thwarted by the assumption that it’s was still closed every winter due to nesting.
Hasn't been closed for quite a few years now.
I can count how many if you like - I save a document of the closures each year (imagine that).
I charge by the minute for record searches. :lol:
If we do put up more pitches, can we just run it out and then have some other folks fill in the gaps with extra bolts? That would surely make the first ascent much easier....
Sorry - I won't be adding any bolts for you or anyone else. I have enough work to do.
Clever concept...although I don't fall for it any more :devildevil: :out: :prrr:
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Envious, I don't mind climb it over and over again, a well deserved 3 stars climb!
Don't worry - we'll go back :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
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we’ve intended to go back but have been thwarted by the assumption that it’s was still closed every winter due to nesting.
Hasn't been closed for quite a few years now.
I can count how many if you like - I save a document of the closures each year (imagine that).
I charge by the minute for record searches. :lol:
Gavin first left it open starting in 2017.
It hasn't made the sensitive list since then.
That search was free. I'm bored.
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Gavin first left it open starting in 2017.
It hasn't made the sensitive list since then.
That search was free. I'm bored.
Feel free to call me at the office. We'll talk Pinnacles....
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If we do put up more pitches, can we just run it out and then have some other folks fill in the gaps with extra bolts? That would surely make the first ascent much easier....
Text is hard to get feeling / context from.....so I'll just ask. Is that a joke?
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Text is hard to get feeling / context from.....so I'll just ask. Is that a joke?
If you have to ask...
Yes. He's as sarcastic and silly as the rest of us.
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Gavin first left it open starting in 2017.
It hasn't made the sensitive list since then.
That search was free. I'm bored.
This just shows how uncommitted I am.
I'll post up later about the reason for my absence from Escuela Escalada de Pinnacles.
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I quested with Deb, Marnye and Nick on Old Original today. First time for all three of them - weather was awesome. Temps hit 74 by 2:30.
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I quested with Deb, Marnye and Nick on Old Original today. First time for all three of them - weather was awesome. Temps hit 74 by 2:30.
No mention of the tree booty?
What was the combined height of your team? :lol:
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No mention of the tree booty?
What was the combined height of your team? :lol:
Pulled some cord and rap rings off the tree.
Combined height - each of us is five feet nothing - you do the math. :biggrin: :yesnod: :lol:
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I was on the west side too.
I got started on rebolting Numbskulls Needle.
I really didn't want to work on it but after replacing the first bolt I realized how desperately it needs to be done.
The bolts are all 5/16's studs sticking way out - with super flimsy sleeves (hardware store junk).
I'll finish it next time out and post some pictures.
I went to Oh Henry! and replaced the 3 SMC hangers and checked the other bolts - top to bottom.
I had to do some significant surfacing on two of the bolts, since the footprint on the Fixe replacement hangers is so much bigger. All the other bolts have Metolius hangers and were tight.
I'll update the Master List and give a full report when I finish Numbskull.
I did some other work too. It was a full day.
Hollered at the Machete crew from Oh Henry!
I couldn't believe I could hear Kat whoo hooing at me across all that distance :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
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Quested with Gavin today.
We took turns leading Fifi Wears Lycra and then I led Five Aces.
Nice weather - mostly cloudy with warm temps and just a light breeze.
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Quested with Gavin today.
We took turns leading Fifi Wears Lycra and then I led Five Aces.
Nice weather - mostly cloudy with warm temps and just a light breeze.
I forgot to mention that Gavin was kind enough to belay me while I led Five Aces.
Then he went waaaay above and beyond by carrying our packs up (he put mine in his and then followed the climb!).
I was cracking up - that really blew me away :lol: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
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I got shut down on Spaceman Spiff yesterday morning. BAP recorded a funny 2 second video of me quaking and grimacing while clinging to holds, trying to unlock the cruxy start. It would make a good meme. I think I figured it out but a little too late - my left hand grip strength was gone. BAP tried it too but could not reach the critical 2nd bolt (long reach to clip) to commit to the crux. I'll have to go back and try it again and just go for it without hanging around more than a few seconds.
We diverted to Swallow Crack, seeking something easier and also since BAP had never led/climbed it. I led it again too. The climb was my first mostly-gear lead at Pinns. I was shocked by the amount of polished looking holds on the face. I did not remember that but I led it almost 8 years ago. We had fun climbing it and I got a really good picture of Kat following Jennifer.
Things were getting a bit crowded by the time we finished, so we headed out and I led Taking the Wind Out of Your Mudsails. The money piece is a #1 camalot (I also had a red alien a few inches lower) and the sling knob is solid (as far as you know). I no longer have to continue walking past that route on the trail and wondering.
We went to check out some other routes but everything I wanted to do was occupied. I was a bit perturbed by a large group at Teaching Rock that had a Tyrolean setup between the Sinbad anchors and two lead bolts on Ali Baba. I didn't waste my breath saying anything directly to them and won't be surprised if people report loose bolts on those routes.
Another fun day with nice conditions. Is it really February?
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Been getting shut down a lot lately but it's been a good learning experience (thanks Gavin, Kat, Jennifer).
Went out with Kat and Aaron yesterday to try and get my confidence back.
Still working a bit on the new crag but nearly finished and almost ready to release the details.
A shared anchor for two new routes provided some nice photo ops yesterday (thanks Kat).
A little easy chimney movement along the start of Chubby Rain
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49600714922_7c6c403a08_z.jpg)
Sweet gear stance between bolts 3 and 4 on Chubby Rain
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49600714842_87e7a5921e_z.jpg)
High step after committing to the left side above the gear protected stemming section on Chubby Rain
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49599956158_e66c3cedc9_z.jpg)
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Nice pics.
Getting shutdown is a good thing.
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Nice pics.
Getting shutdown is a good thing.
Thanks Mud.
I have climbed Chubby Rain 5.8*** quite a few times now and it just doesn't get old.
Fake Purse Ninjas 5.7* has a little loose but mostly avoidable stuff at the start - then it gets better quickly.
Hindsight 5.7** is only about half as long as the other routes but it is a reachy, fun, jug fest on really nice rock.
We had a no climbing shoes necessary day yesterday (Deb's phrase - not mine) climbing new routes in the High Peaks.
It was a real snot fest among the three of us (me, Kat and Deb) and no one was feeling particularly up to par.
Got some cool shots of a couple youngsters climbing Condor Condiment - after we pointed them toward the approach.
Had a fun day with lots of condor sightings and perfect weather.
Looks like we are in for about a week of lousy weather - so not sure when the quest will continue...
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Thursday was too wet to do much.
We had a nice hike, picnic with plenty of sunshine at a secluded overlook and I replaced one old bolt later in the day.
I decided not to climb Numbskull's Needle again to do the rebolt.
I removed all my tools and hardware from the stash up there and will move on to other more worthwhile projects.
I did replace the first bolt about a month ago, so anyone that gets on that route (likely no one, ever) they will get a nice Oh Shit moment when they find the second bolt.
We had a little fun yesterday.
Deb did a proud lead of Ali Baba.
BAP should be sending some good pictures of that when she gets home tonight.
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Deb did a proud lead of Ali Baba.
BAP should be sending some good pictures of that when she gets home tonight.
courtesy of BAP
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49660753337_42ee921ba8_z.jpg)
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So excited that I got to do that climb! Thanks for the cool pics BAP! JC & KC thanks for letting me tag along, ALWAYS a good time to be had.
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I had a great day today at Pins, but it was windy and cold. I started out doing "The Maze - High Point" and then moved on to "Glad Stone". I doubt I went up the right slot since I had then then down climb to the shoulder. From there I did "Half Platte". While I was on "Half Platte", Condor 0 landed on the top of Peel Pinnacle to watch me. I then did "Slip'n Slide" with the start of the pitch in fifth class terrain since it was wet. Next up was "Almost Always". I agree with Brad's description of the chimney/ramp being easy but awkward. Then I did the excellent route "The Stroll". At the end of the day, I did "Mescaline Mound" and "The Clump - Scrambler's Route".
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So excited that I got to do that climb! Thanks for the cool pics BAP! JC & KC thanks for letting me tag along, ALWAYS a good time to be had.
It's pretty clear to me that Deb has or is about to join the exalted ranks of the mistresses of mud (along with Kat, Laura and Jenn).
Very impressive lead!
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Wow, Mark - Jenn and I might have walked right under you when you were on Scrambler's Route. We would have been pretty hunkered down though and not looking around - damn that wind was cold!
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So excited that I got to do that climb! Thanks for the cool pics BAP! JC & KC thanks for letting me tag along, ALWAYS a good time to be had.
What? Deb is on mud n crud?! :idea: :confused: ???
It's pretty clear to me that Deb has or is about to join the exalted ranks of the mistresses of mud (along with Kat, Laura and Jenn). Very impressive lead!
Debutante of Crud :lol: :out: :ihih:
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It's pretty clear to me that Deb has or is about to join the exalted ranks of the mistresses of mud (along with Kat, Laura and Jenn).
Agreed - but we might have to call her Princess of Mud :winkagain: :biggrin:
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Agreed - but we might have to call her Princess of Mud Wink Big Grin
Meanwhile Munge, Brad and climberdude can fight over the title of the Duchess of Granite.
:)
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Meanwhile Munge, Brad and climberdude can fight over the title of the Duchess of Granite.
:)
Maybe.
Meanwhile, there's no contest for your title: Queen of the Couch.
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Meanwhile, there's no contest for your title: Queen of the Couch.
Couch Carrion
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Baron of the Bath.
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Baron of the Bath.
Rub a Dub Dud
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High Priest of Putzing.
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Nice ones!
I do present a rather large target. I did manage to chuck 12,000+ pounds of concrete in a few hours, onto my road last week. Was a bit stiff, but feeling froggy now. The nice thing was that the neighbors chipped in $500 bucks to cover half the materials this year.
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There was a little girl,
Who had a little curl,
Right in the middle of her forehead.
When she was good,
She was very good indeed,
But when she was bad she was the most innocent looking.
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Did some climbing on chockstone,osiris,upper toogs and ended it by getting too scared to top out big nixon
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50250180046_d6450b6c62_z.jpg)
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Did some climbing on chockstone,osiris,upper toogs and ended it by getting too scared to top out big nixon
Been there, done that. Did you bail off onto Little Richard?
Check out Once Around the Backside and Rumbling Rampart (rebolted)
Still no Bill's?
Friendly suggestion - try choosing a smaller file size from whatever you're using to post photos so we can see your picture (I choose medium on Flikr). You can also try the Preview button to check and see if it is working correctly.
I did a save as so I could see your pic but most of the old farts on here won't want to bother.
Where is your belayer?
Surprised to see the creek bed totally dry.
How did you like the replacement anchor?
I noticed the top of that big dead tree broke off recently and is still laying on the rock near where you scramble up to the anchor.
EDIT 8-20-20
After never receiving a response from djh650 I downloaded his picture and uploaded it to my Flikr account - then re-posted it so it could be seen. Maybe at some point he'll see this and re-post and let me know - or not.
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For all you gear heads out there (are you watching Noal?) - I just got an email announcing the camalot #7 ($199) and #8 ($239).
If you order this month you get a free Tame the Monster t-shirt, free shipping and part of the proceeds go to support the Access Fund.
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For all you gear heads out there (are you watching Noal?) - I just got an email announcing the camalot #7 ($199) and #8 ($239).
If you order this month you get a free Tame the Monster t-shirt, free shipping and part of the proceeds go to support the Access Fund.
I'm not sure I need any of this stuff but I think clink needs the t-shirt and the cams since squeeze chimneys will be offwidths for him :prrr: :out: :arf:
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7 and 8? I had no idea those existed. Dont want nor need.
Have been thinking about buying a road bike. Any suggestions out there for entry level bike?
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I'm not sure I need any of this stuff but I think clink needs the t-shirt and the cams since squeeze chimneys will be offwidths for him :prrr: :out: :arf:
Right side of the Remnant is memorable.
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Right side of the Remnant is memorable.
Is this some reference to that side of what's left of your brain? :idea:
By the way...Where did you learn how to quote? Geez...first I'm fixing pictures and now this...what a maroon :lol: :ciappa:
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Have been thinking about buying a road bike. Any suggestions out there for entry level bike?
Unicycle is way cheaper, will kick your a$$ just riding around the block a couple times and requires no maintenance (no chain, no gears, no brakes).
I would recommend a 24 inch wheel to get back into it. I remember you told me you used to ride one.
Bonus - People smile, laugh and tell bad jokes as you ride by.
When you get tired of spinning like a madman on the 24 inch wheel, I have an extra 36 inch wheel you can try.
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You know the majority of the people who buy those cams are those people on Instagram who post photos of their climbing gear on peg boards all nice and neat like.
Those cams will hang there all shiny and new until the owner decides to take up yachting.
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Unicycle is way cheaper, will kick your a$$ just riding around the block a couple times and requires no maintenance (no chain, no gears, no brakes).
True. Cant see riding a unicycle from my house to pescadero and back.
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True. Cant see riding a unicycle from my house to pescadero and back.
That would be a nice ride (on a bicycle).
My idea was to keep you in your neighborhood, kick your arse and keep costs to a bare minimum.
It also brings challenge, focus and core strength all together in one compact package.
Bonus - everybody will think you're talented and they'll be especially nice to you because you're providing them entertainment. :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
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Those cams will hang there all shiny and new until the owner decides to take up yachting.
Nice conversation pieces while you enjoy Boat Drinks :biggrin:
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Nice conversation pieces while you enjoy Boat Drinks :biggrin:
I don't want to insult those who don't like words that rhyme with "it."
So while I won't say where, I'll just say that these will compliment my nine inch Valley Giant cam. And my Valley Giants got a lot of scratch marks....
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Munge can use at reservoir for boat anchor!
These cams would be better if they came with a parachute.
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^^^
Much bigger and they'll need to come with a sherpa.
Or a tall, 30 year old blonde surfer type who strangely likes crack climbing and loves (LOVES) to carry all my gear.
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I don't want to insult those who don't like words that rhyme with "it."
Anybody want a peanut?
Or a tall, 30 year old blonde surfer type who strangely likes crack climbing and loves (LOVES) to carry all my gear.
Parts of that sentence are true. We'll leave it to the scholars to figure out which. ::)
Honestly I would love hiking up hill both ways with a huge pack to go climbing big cracks right now!!!! No joke, that sounds wonderful. The couch is consuming me.
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Parts of that sentence are true. We'll leave it to the scholars to figure out which. ::)
Uh, I'm the only scholar here... and I typed the sentence :P
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That would be a nice ride (on a bicycle).
I live three blocks from Crystal Springs Road. That takes you to the reservoir on 280.
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I live three blocks from Crystal Springs Road. That takes you to the reservoir on 280.
Do you ever Sneath over 280?
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That have to do with the bridge over the dam? Used to know a guy who did bungee jumping there.
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Supposed to be good climbing on the dam wall
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Supposed to be good climbing on the dam wall
Haven't been down there since they did the big retrofit on that dam a couple years ago. That dam was the most sophisticated engineering structure west of the Mississippi for a long time. I used to do a field trip that started at San Andreas Dam and ended at Crystal Springs. Those reservoirs are situated right in the rift of the mighty San Andreas fault. A nice paved trail connects the two (right along the rift) but it's too long to walk on a field trip. Nothing like standing right on top of a major plate boundary.
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I never actually rode the trail between reservoirs but I did ride it down to the dam at San Andreas Lake one time and it was terrifying on the big uni. It was off camber, fairly tight turns and steeply downhill (combine those three elements) in several sections. I barely made it to the bottom. I couldn't ride back up (too steep). I might be able to do it now. I ride a different tire now that is super light compared to the one I was using when I did it many years ago (2013). I hadn't been riding the big wheel that long either.
I always liked standing on the dam at San Andreas and imagining a huge earthquake destroying that dam and releasing all the lake water. Then imagine all that water thundering down the rift and overtopping the dam at Crystal Springs.
The Crystal Springs dam fails and sends a massive flood wave under the 280 overpass and right into San Mateo. :yikes:
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I dont know which is scarier an unexpected out of control unicyclist barreling downhill towards you or a massive tidal wave in Hillsborough.
Luckily I live on the second floor. By the time it got here i would just see a huge river pass by filled with debris and luxury automobiles.
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I always liked standing on the dam at San Andreas and imagining a huge earthquake destroying that dam and releasing all the lake water. Then imagine all that water thundering down the rift and overtopping the dam at Crystal Springs.
The Crystal Springs dam fails and sends a massive flood wave under the 280 overpass and right into San Mateo.
Sick puppy.
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Luckily I live on the second floor. By the time it got here i would just see a huge river pass by filled with debris and luxury automobiles.
That may depend on the first floor construction.
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Got out to Pinns today with Tuff Chik for the first time since the lockdown.
Established a one bolt run out route and started another one that is going to be really fun.
Temps were decent, no one around and it felt good to be back out.
Breezes were surprisingly cool.
Saw a couple falcons dog fighting repeatedly.
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Nice, John - glad to hear you made it back out to the park! It's great having these occasional cooler days during the summer - I hope that continues between the waves of more typical heat.
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Got out to Pinns today with Tuff Chik for the first time since the lockdown.
Established a one bolt run out route and started another one that is going to be really fun.
Drilling bolt 1 from a hang/stance - The Great Humongous
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50061694363_e811ae228b_z.jpg)
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We finished The Great Humongous 5.8** today.
Here is Kat on the follow - stemming over to the great one :yesnod: :thumbup: :ihih:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50113572263_d0f0794098_z.jpg)
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Nice!
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Is her right foot on the GH? And is that same huge thing visible in the photo of you drilling the first bolt?
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^^^
Yep. :arf:
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looks cool 5.6
We finished The Great Humongous 5.8** today.
Here is Kat on the follow - stemming over to the great one :yesnod: :thumbup: :ihih:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50113572263_d0f0794098_z.jpg)
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looks cool 5.6
Nah, much harder than 5.6 - look how desperately that shrimp is stretched out.
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Nah, much harder than 5.6 - look how desperately that shrimp is stretched out.
Yes, and the shrimp just found out recently that she is only 5'3", not the 5'5" she thought she was. ::)
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Yes, and the shrimp just found out recently that she is only 5'3", not the 5'5" she thought she was. ::)
...but also has such a wonderful presence and personality that she seems 5'8'.
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looks cool 5.6
That's what I thought too - standing at the base looking up - maybe even 5.5. It's the classic "Looks easy from here"
It looked like I might be able to get on top of the Humongous with one bolt and then a couple bolts from there to go straight up - then up and left to the top.
This is one of the most if not THE most deceiving climb I have ever done.
Reminds me of the nature of Here's Mud in Your Eye but not quite that good and trickier.
There are multiple lips and bulges (insert joke here) and some of the climbing is surprisingly exposed where you are hanging off hand holds to get in position for the next moves - all while being nicely protected.
I was unable to place any bolt on the route without at least partially hanging on something (1st bolt partial hang) and fully hanging for all the rest (totally unexpected).
6 bolts instead of the predicted 3 or 4. I doubt anyone will complain. They can always skip bolts.
A strong contrast alongside the purists ideal to just Rock Naked. The time for me to be that bold already came and went :yesnod: :lol: :arf:
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Wow, it looks good. I need to get on it!
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Great work! When you get into a stem like that, easing up on a hand or foot to make a move is dicey!
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came and went
There is a name. Right next to Incontinence
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came and went
There is a name. Right next to Incontinence
I noticed that phrasing and was expecting something a little more vulgar from you - perhaps along the line of Walk of Shame
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Great work! When you get into a stem like that, easing up on a hand or foot to make a move is dicey!
It's a joy knob crank (if you can reach it :ihih: ) :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
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Climbed for a few hours with Gavin and Alacia yesterday.
We had not been to the east side since March 13th.
It was nice to finally see our friends and spend some quality time together.
The climbing was fun (Gavin's new routes) and we had a good time before it heated up too much.
The view from the Visitor Center has changed considerably when you look toward the campground.
The new owners of the campground erected tent cabins on both sides of the road there and at our favorite sites on the B Loop.
It was weird to see a locked gate and big blockade at the intersection of the main road and the campground turn in.
Gavin leads Toad Haul 5.10c**
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50137900697_6a9851f95e_z.jpg)
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Hate progress, why can’t they leave the campground as it has been....
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Hate progress, why can’t they leave the campground as it has been....
Seems no one can leave anything alone these days.
Spillover from the constant updating process that happens with technology?
Prelude to that was when General Mills changed the shape of Trix from spheres to fruity shapes.
Have you seen it?
Here's a preview looking toward the road to the RV and group site sections from the Visitor Center :puke:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50138643242_2361d635e3_z.jpg)
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Car camping blows. Cut out all that dough spent at REI trying to make camping just like home and just stay in the tent cabin and sleep comfortably. Bet they have comfy cots and a wood stove.
If you want to go camping go backpacking. ;)
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Looks like employee housing?
If its not, anyone else care to rant about how converting a Monument to a Park never ends well?
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Damn, Pinnacles got sold out....wtf?
Hopefully they will improve the beer selection, like I ever buy there.
Plus side, wife will be happier in one of them tent cabins.
Gotta wonder how they breathe....hantavirus, passed gas....
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Car camping blows. Cut out all that dough spent at REI trying to make camping just like home and just stay in the tent cabin and sleep comfortably. Bet they have comfy cots and a wood stove.
If you want to go camping go backpacking. ;)
It says they have a heater (in the ones that have electricity) and the beds look okay.
Each cabin has a queen and two twin beds.
You provide the bedding.
Pets are allowed.
Looks like non electric cabins have a light but no heat.
No cooking or flames or any kind inside.
You can see them on the website. $129 and $119 per night.
Here is an example of an electric cabin.
https://www.recreation.gov/camping/campsites/92592
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Looks like employee housing?
If its not, anyone else care to rant about how converting a Monument to a Park never ends well?
Nope and nope. :arf:
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Cross quote
Bugs. That's what's up. Bugs.
Black flies are still biting at Pinnies.
Gnat e dreds too.
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Wonder if the tents have electrical outlets for charging batteries.
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damn
I know where there is walk in camping
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Thanks for the post about my new routes, John - it was great to catch up with you and Kathy.
I modified your post with the photo to reflect the revised route name - but it's fun either way. ;)
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Thanks for the post about my new routes, John - it was great to catch up with you and Kathy.
I modified your post with the photo to reflect the revised route name - but it's fun either way. ;)
Toadally okay.
It was fun watching the way you tip-toad your way up that thing.
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^^^
We need a smiley with an audible groan :redface:
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Are there any willows in Pinns? There was a nice wind today. Breaking Badger Wind?
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Are there any willows in Pinns? There was a nice wind today. Breaking Badger Wind?
There are willows.
And you are so not with it.
Go back to reading your book.
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Route looks nice.
Klink, I fart in your direction!!
Hey Gavin,
On a nice thread drift...we were up in mendocino a few weekends ago at Russian Gulch camp ground.
There was an Osprey family. The parents sounded like jetliners when flying over.
The kids were noisy when the parents came back...pretty cool.
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F4 - that is cool; always impressive to see ospreys and other raptors interacting and active.
Clink - yeah, there are a couple different species of willows at Pinnacles. They are quite abundant along most of the more lush riparian corridors, especially the larger corridors like Sandy Creek (running through the campground), and Chalone Creek (along North and South Wilderness Trails, on Balconies Trail from Chaparral Parking Area, etc.). I established 4 new routes at a spot I called Wind Willow Rock, located a short ways out on the North Wilderness Trail from Old Pinnacles Trail - there are abundant willows and cottonwoods near the rock base.
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Bad behavior continues on the west side.
There was an old truck camper parked in the last roadside pullout as we drove in 146. That same truck was in the parking lot when we came back out from the days activities. A young couple had dogs out in the parking lot next to the camper and as we relaxed and regrouped for the drive home, I watched them walk with their dogs off leash to the informational signs at the trailhead.
After a few minutes of reading they proceeded up Juniper Canyon, dogs and all.
There was tagging (blue sharpie) on the climber access trail sign at Tilting Terrace.
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Can’t fix stupid.
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^^^
Amen to that.
I know we would all rather hear good news right now - I just like to let folks know what I observe.
Even though the temps reached into the 90's yesterday there was a nice breeze that kept things tolerable.
Yesterday was a work day and we accomplished quite a bit of tidying up.
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+ Why be the one to piss on their trip??
Nah, just sit back and watch.....
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^^^
Not worth the bother to say anything - I mean c'mon it's right there on the signs.
Besides - they can say it's an emotional support animal and then what?
We raised our own ruckus. :devildevil: :ihih:
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Can’t fix stupid.
Lawless and Odoriferous, or better known as Protesters and Police.
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Bring the Ruckus.
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So the W-side is open? Self service on the fee?
Mulling going this Saturday.
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So the W-side is open? Self service on the fee?
Mulling going this Saturday.
Still no fees.
We saw a ranger yesterday but he was hiking in on the Rookie path as we were exiting via the Pinn head path - didn't get a chance to talk.
High 90's bordering on low 100's - gotta love Pinns in the summer.
Arrive early and plan on a very short day or late and climb until dark (not my time of day to bring the Ruckus).
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You can also bring the ruckus and send that sick project brah!
Ah bouldering section how I miss thee. Cant say I miss the smell of stinky feet, sweaty balls, b.o., and that one dude that eats burritos. Never figured that one out. Just eat the burrito at the taqueria. :puke:
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^^^
Not worth the bother to say anything - I mean c'mon it's right there on the signs.
Besides - they can say it's an emotional support animal and then what?
We raised our own ruckus. :devildevil: :ihih:
Actually, folks are only allowed to have dogs on leash on trail if they provide an ADA listed service - and "emotional support" is not a legitimate or listed service.
If you are interested in passing on observations of visitors breaking the rules, our chief ranger Curt Dimmick (curt_dimmick@nps.gov) would be interested. If we (as park employees) can compile more evidence of visitors breaking the rules, it helps justify additional funding for law enforcement and staff on trail.
Okay, park hat back off. ;)
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Raising a Ruckus on Flimsy Flume yesterday morning - early.
Do you believe in magic?
Moving past a sling knob at around the 40 foot level (it's even with my foot).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50171068703_7a980fd42e_z.jpg)
My head is even with the bolt in this picture as I rest and look down to Kat
I replaced the old bolt with a long 5 piece ASCA bolt on Tuesday.
The bolt is 60 feet up. This climb was a HUGE coup for me.
There is still 35 feet of climbing left (much foreshortening in the picture).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50171866517_ca2a31b9e5_z.jpg)
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Actually, folks are only allowed to have dogs on leash on trail if they provide an ADA listed service - and "emotional support" is not a legitimate or listed service.
If you are interested in passing on observations of visitors breaking the rules, our chief ranger Curt Dimmick (curt_dimmick@nps.gov) would be interested. If we (as park employees) can compile more evidence of visitors breaking the rules, it helps justify additional funding for law enforcement and staff on trail.
Okay, park hat back off. ;)
Thanks Gavin - for the legal info (which I did not know) and for Curt's contact info.
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JC you sick puppy, why o why would you subject yourself to that thing!!
I remember Mungie recruiting Jake Miller for that maw.
And Jake was a sick puppy with wide stuff.
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Cool JC! (At first I thought the pic was of a baby kangaroo being born, then I found my glasses)
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JC you sick puppy, why o why would you subject yourself to that thing!!
I remember Mungie recruiting Jake Miller for that maw.
And Jake was a sick puppy with wide stuff.
I hear ya dude. It was all I could muster to get on it and keep it together.
That thing has been taunting me since the first time I saw it.
I had everything on that whole wall rebolted and it was the last route that needed work.
It has less loose rock now than it did. I can see why they named it Flimsy.
There are still some loose flakes left on it and they are sizable (hung fire).
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Cool JC! (At first I thought the pic was of a baby kangaroo being born, then I found my glasses)
I thought maybe you were looking at it in the tub and looked too far down. :skep: :redface:
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Okay, I consulted the Holy Book by Young and it’s an old roper route.
Mungies route Blunt Arete is to the side.
Still, that’s an ugly ass route.
$5 if you put new bolts on Blunte Arete every 6ft.
Mungie was saying the other day.....
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What is the access in the Weatside like?
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Still, that’s an ugly ass route.
It's about as pretty as it can get now.
If you stay on the outer part where it's wider and exposed, most of the rock is pretty good.
There are multiple spots where there are big, loose/flimsy flakes if you try to go in farther.
It's definitely not for the Pinns uninitiated or beginners looking for an easy rating.
I thought some of the moves/sections were harder than 5.5 - more like 5.6 - the original rating in the Roper guide.
I've never seen anyone climbing it and was curious about it and scared of it for a long time.
I talked to waldo about it and also talked to one other random climber about it years ago.
Neither of them saw the bolt. It was really hard to see with all the moss, lichen and different shades of rock.
After I finally led it, Kat asked me what I thought were the scariest climbs I'd done.
I told her it would be easier and a much shorter recall to name the not scary routes I've done at Pinns.
What is the access in the Weatside like?
Caves are closed/gates shut but other than that it's the same as it ever was.
The NPS keeps their webpage updated nicely and there is also a Pinns NP FB page.
There's a Pinns Climbing Community FB page too but I only recognize a few of the member names (weird).
Who are these people?
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Nice job on the wide
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Nice job on the wide
.
Thanks briham.
You would probably like this route with all your chimney experience and familiarity with the crud.
I've only done one other as wide as this (Peyote Pillar) and it was only about one third the length.
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Well the place will never be the same without a white Trooper parked there.
U there tomorrow?
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Well the place will never be the same without a white Trooper parked there.
U there tomorrow?
Agreed.
Nope. We tend to avoid weekends.
Forecast is 96 for tomorrow, 93 for Monday - then supposedly cooling down into the 80's for a few days.
Tuesday or Wednesday might be a possibility.
Got a bike rack set up now - so we could think about going east side too.
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The view this past Thursday (around 7:30 am).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50179082197_d1e9511e40_z.jpg)
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.
There's a Pinns Climbing Community FB page too but I don't recognize any of the member names (weird).
That's a little rude to say you don't recognize me and the other knuckleheads on mudcrud FB.
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This climb was a HUGE coup for me.
Excellent, excellent that you finally got that one done. I know it was bugging you for years. Congrats.
And the whole wall now rebolted too? Maybe Pinnacles season continues after all?
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Maybe Pinnacles season continues after all?
Some like it hot
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That's a little rude to say you don't recognize me and the other knuckleheads on mudcrud FB.
There's another FB Page for Pinns called Pinnacles National Park Climbing Community. I just looked over the member names and I know about 5 of them.
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That's a little rude to say you don't recognize me and the other knuckleheads on mudcrud FB.
I forgot about the mudcrud Pinnacles page - so there are actually 3 FB Pinnacles pages.
The Pinnacles Climbing Community page is probably one you haven't seen.
Bruce, Belizzi, Thornburg and Dan Gearhart (really nice volunteer you might not know - doesn't climb) are on there.
You can't see who the members are without joining so I did (reluctantly). I have yet to post on there.
Maybe we should start another FB page and just use it to gossip about the mud n crudders that aren't on FB :lol: :devildevil:
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Maybe we should start another FB page and just use it to gossip about the mud n crudders that aren't on FB :lol: :devildevil:
ESAD, commie clone Facebook user.
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Excellent, excellent that you finally got that one done. I know it was bugging you for years. Congrats.
ESAD, commie clone Facebook user.
Wow. Two accolades in one day from the GM. Hope my head doesn't swell too big for my helmet :lol: :ihih: :arf:
I still think we need a dangling carrot icon/emoji (clink needs a dangling tomato) - besides F4 and I like carrots!
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Maybe we should start another FB page and just use it to gossip about the mud n crudders that aren't on FB
We won't know nor care.
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Maybe we should start another FB page and just use it to gossip about the mud n crudders that aren't on FB :lol: :devildevil:
We won't know nor care.
That hurts dude...
I was at least hoping for a DIE. :crying: :shocked:
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I forgot to mention that I ate chicken the night before climbing Flimsy Flume.
I told Kat maybe I should have had bear or lion - anything but chicken...
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There's another FB Page for Pinns called Pinnacles National Park Climbing Community. I just looked over the member names and I know about 5 of them.
I just invited a bunch of folks to join the mud crud FB group.
There can be only ONE!
Invite your friends.
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The view this past Thursday (around 7:30 am).
Car campers. They should put up some tent cabins there. No revenue to be made from picnicking.
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Car campers. They should put up some tent cabins there. No revenue to be made from picnicking.
The girl was making breakfast in the parking lot in the back of their van and the guy was still in the tent (sleeping presumably).
We let her know that they were citation bait and that we had seen a ranger the previous day (the day I led Flimsy Flume).
They cleared the site rapidly and gratefully.
They should restore 10 or so tent/walk-in sites on the west side (where it used to be).
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There you go sgsin JC being the party pooper. They needed to get a citation...that’s how they learn.
Flip side....shit, no one is checking there at night so you can camp there overnight?!,,,
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There you go sgsin JC being the party pooper. They needed to get a citation...that’s how they learn.
Flip side....shit, no one is checking there at night so you can camp there overnight?!,,,
It was early - they would have had hours to vacate before any possibility of a bust.
Sadly the ranger we saw Wednesday was the only NPS presence we have seen on the west side in eight visits.
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Anarchy!!!
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We quested a bit yesterday.
I have looked at this climb more times than I can count (every time we hike up Juniper Canyon).
Most times I have looked, we were either focused on getting somewhere else or the rains had it wet or some other multitude of not quite right conditions prevailed.
With the sun angle lately, I knew it would be in shade early and well into the morning.
Fun/challenging stemming and nice rock (in the streak) - except for some looseness in the short section below/right of the bulge where you are temporarily forced out of the streak. Borderline star worthy imo.
Here's a few shots. Deb took some short video clips - one of which caught my whoop past the exit moves.
JC leads Operation Pinnacles Freedom (vicinity of bolt 4). Classic butt shot since Deb was acting as Kat's ground anchor.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50195486953_d57931ed3c.jpg)
Deb getting past bolt 1
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50196296612_1030b227d5_z.jpg)
Money shot of Kat (best of the bunch imo - thanks Deb).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50196034446_b972bab1cc_z.jpg)
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Last time I was up there I could see rotten slings on the top anchor (we did that route before we'd started leaving chains). Any chance you had something quality to leave instead? Can I replace any chains you left, if you did?
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Last time I was up there I could see rotten slings on the top anchor (we did that route before we'd started leaving chains). Any chance you had something quality to leave instead? Can I replace any chains you left, if you did?
There are Fixe flat, single ring hangers on both anchor bolts.
I've been looking at the route for years and never noticed any tat.
Rope pull is fine.
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Ah, well we did better than I thought.
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Looks great JC, KC and Deb!
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Nice. That's a fun one.
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Nice. That's a fun one.
Agreed. It's a bit tricky and challenging. I did lots of small stemming moves and body resets - downward palms and not much pulling.
I only had one small hand hold start cracking on me after clipping bolt 5 and I just switched to something else. There are some decent voids for fingertips where other stuff came off in the past.
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Looks like the Quest may have to wait a while.
The temperature forecast is usually off (typically low by about 5 degrees) and the forecast for the next few days is 105 :yikes:
105 is not really unusual for Pinns in the summertime but in an ironic twist, the forecast for our little coastal paradise is 93 for tomorrow! What?!
Even today was quite warm. I got out around 11:30 and it was already mid 70's (it's only been averaging daytime highs of mid 60's here lately).
On my return trip unicycling today, I encountered more cycling traffic than usual (usually there is none).
First there was a lady on a geared cruiser that I had talked to once before and then a neighborhood regular pedaled by on her trike with her little dog in the basket on the back.
I was talking to the lady on the cruiser and said - "I'm actually sweating today - this is unacceptable!" She asked how I normally tolerate the heat and I replied "I do okay...I go to Pinnacles a lot to rock climb when it's hot but I try to stay in the shade." To my surprise she said - "Oh...I have a small first ascent at Pinnacles." I replied "What's the name of the route?" She thought for a moment and said "Going the Wong Way." I said "I've done that route. That is a fun route. Steve Wong." She said "Yes...that is my ex husband."
Small world.
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I’ve been on that, I think.
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She said "Yes...that is my ex husband."
Small world.
After all.
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Weird. I was thinking about that route name yesterday when I was going the wrong way. I have gone the Wong way too.
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Cue BAP to tell the story of how her kids used to answer the phone (remembering that her last name is pronounced Wong even though it is spelled Wang).
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After all.
It's
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Had to share something else especially since Mud was talking about buying a new helmet.
Seems a lot of the new helmets are coming with a magnetic buckle.
I bought the new Petzl helmet a while back (on sale) and stuck it on the shelf.
I finally took it out about a month ago.
I call it my styrofoam dome.
While I was leading a new route the other morning, I got up to the crux and just before I was getting ready to think about clipping the bolt, I felt my buckle come undone - whoopsie. I did absolutely nothing to cause it.
I fumbled to get it buckled and then proceeded over the crux with a puzzled feeling in my gut.
I'm gonna call Petzl.
Maybe I'll own that place :lol: :thumbup: :yesnod:
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Cue BAP to tell the story of how her kids used to answer the phone (remembering that her last name is pronounced Wong even though it is spelled Wang).
" You wing the wong number."
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Both my ex-husband and I are Wang.
My kids used to tell us "Two wongs don't make a white".
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Regardless of who is wong or white, BAP LIVES MATTER!
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" You wing the wong number."
this made me laugh
the 2nd one is good as well
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I got a new full face helmet with a magnetic buckle. Looking at neck braces
Had to share something else especially since Mud was talking about buying a new helmet.
Seems a lot of the new helmets are coming with a magnetic buckle.
I bought the new Petzl helmet a while back (on sale) and stuck it on the shelf.
I finally took it out about a month ago.
I call it my styrofoam dome.
While I was leading a new route the other morning, I got up to the crux and just before I was getting ready to think about clipping the bolt, I felt my buckle come undone - whoopsie. I did absolutely nothing to cause it.
I fumbled to get it buckled and then proceeded over the crux with a puzzled feeling in my gut.
I'm gonna call Petzl.
Maybe I'll own that place :lol: :thumbup: :yesnod:
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Speaking of the Wong Way, I think I went the wrong way. After the good face, does it finish by traversing out that horizontal crack and then humping up and over?
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Speaking of the Wong Way, I think I went the wrong way. After the good face, does it finish by traversing out that horizontal crack and then humping up and over?
Once you get up the 1st pitch and scramble into the water chute - there are only two "easy" ways to get on top of 5th Sister.
One is the crack you mentioned for some gear and a few moves left and then up - and the other is the 5.6X route - but that is way around the other side. I seem to recall scrambling to the top of a little pedestal/mound to reach the crack (easy but exposed).
Here are my notes.
I used three cams in the crack for p2 – a #3 with a .75 just below it and equalized + a #2 up and left with a limiter knot in the sling to equalize in with the other two. It looked and felt solid enough to sustain a fall (basically built a gear anchor). The move is intimidating but way easier than it looks – exposed! I stepped through with my right foot with my hands in the crack which allowed me to stretch my left foot out onto the big holds and it was over. From there - easy but exposed and runout climbing goes up the face. Good holds with a few loose spots that can easily be avoided.
I thought the route was really fun and recommended it for a star. It is actually worth repeating.
I keep meaning to get back out there and inspect those bolts - I'll get to it one of these days.
Pretty sure they are all 5 piece RAWLs but at least one hanger didn't look great (according to my notes).
I still need to check out that Beyer route on 4th sister too but last time I checked - there was still an active hive right on it.
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109 yesterday on the gauge at 4:30 pm and still 76 this morning at 5:30 am :yikes:
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Thanks, JC. I had no gear when I did it, so I took the 5.6 option. I'll have to get back out to try the crack. Late November sounds nice!
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Thanks, JC. I had no gear when I did it, so I took the 5.6 option. I'll have to get back out to try the crack. Late November sounds nice!
I did that 5.6X rope solo (I anchored my rope to the tree) on 3-14-14 when I was out rebolting stuff solo (4th Sister).
I remember standing there, contemplating the move with the wind gusting hard. I almost chickened out.
I scoped out p2 of Going the Wong Way that day too - so I'd have some idea of what gear to take.
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How hot did it get?
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Speaking of the Wong Way, I think I went the wrong way.
I scoped out p2 of Going the Wong Way that day too
To me, the Wong way is always the white way. ;)
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How hot did it get?
Gavin said it was 112 at his place yesterday.
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so much smoke in the air. so much heat in the air. Who wants to go to Pinns?
...To rescue Gavin and Alacia. Not to climb, bc that would be cray cray.
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Sure
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Ashes the mud and not I. I still don't see any questing in the near future.
Ashes everywhere this morning, more heat on the way, smoke-flavored ocean scents in the air and no one pulls teeth anymore without making a federal case out of it.
What's next?
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What's next?
With 2020 I am not sure I want to ask or if I want to know..
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With 2020 I am not sure I want to ask or if I want to know..
Amen to that brother!
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Looking at the current cruddy air quality and temperature forecast and dreaming of getting back out to the mud.
4 years ago yesterday we established Call of the Crud and 4 years ago today we started working on Ashes the Mud and I.
The previous week - I was banging in some of the bolts on Mud Diamond with clink.
Truly the summer of mud :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
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Looking at the current cruddy air quality and temperature forecast and dreaming of getting back out to the mud.
4 years ago yesterday we established Call of the Crud and 4 years ago today we started working on Ashes the Mud and I.
The previous week - I was banging in some of the bolts on Mud Diamond with clink.
Truly the summer of mud :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
Kat leads Call of the Crud
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4340/36847804400_1601acf6db_z.jpg)
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Looking at the current cruddy air quality and temperature forecast and dreaming of getting back out to the mud.
The previous week - I was banging in some of the bolts on Mud Diamond with clink.
clink heads over the bulge on Mud Diamond after I hung on knobs to drill the crux bolt
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4393/37075748952_897a37788d_z.jpg)
We were talking afterwards on the way home and I mentioned how scared and tired I was hanging there drilling that bolt while my legs went to sleep.
To which clink promptly replied - "Yeah...too bad your mouth didn't go to sleep too." :lol:
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"Yeah...too bad your mouth didn't go to sleep too."
This is why we need an oral surgeon on call for you.
How is the face JC? Ready for me to operate? >:D
The previous week - I was banging in some of the bolts on Mud Diamond with clink.
Truly the summer of mud
Thanks for posting those up. Just what the doc ordered. :)
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lol, I wish I had skills of an artist, I would draw a pic of Clink in his truck with a rope and string tied from the back of the truck to JC's tooth, as he holds onto a big ol cobblestone at Pinnacles. buahahaha
Which breaks loose first? The cobble or the tooth?
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lol, I wish I had skills of an artist, I would draw a pic of Clink in his truck with a rope and string tied from the back of the truck to JC's tooth, as he holds onto a big ol cobblestone at Pinnacles. buahahaha
Which breaks loose first? The cobble or the tooth?
To insure that he holds on tight enough for surgical success, he would need to be on lead and at least five feet above his last bolt.
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I don't have to take this abuse!
On another note - I have been deep in a masochistic quest to restore photos that got hijacked by photobucket many moons ago.
Not much to do with all these fires burning and smoke/heat at Pinns rock-blocking my real work.
I've been coming across some photos and some old posts that I completely forgot about and getting some pretty good laughs and having some fun - so it's not really all that torturous. I know none of it really amounts to a hill of beans in the big scheme of things but what the hey. When I finish, I plan to post my favorite pics of all time. I already have a few in mind.
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I don't have to take this abuse!
On another note - I have been deep in a masochistic quest to restore photos that got hijacked by photobucket many moons ago.
Not much to do with all these fires burning and smoke/heat at Pinns rock-blocking my real work.
I've been coming across some photos and some old posts that I completely forgot about and getting some pretty good laughs and having some fun - so it's not really all that torturous. I know none of it really amounts to a hill of beans in the big scheme of things but what the hey. When I finish, I plan to post my favorite pics of all time. I already have a few in mind.
Yes, you do have to take this abuse.
And that's great news about the photos. Are you restoring all of the photos in certain threads, for example? If so, would you let us know when you finish restoring a thread?
Thanks.
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I don't have to take this abuse!
Yes, most defiantly, you do. Bend over, no, that's not right. Open wide.
On another note - I have been deep in a masochistic quest to restore photos that got hijacked by photobucket many moons ago.
Extra long bucket list.
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And that's great news about the photos. Are you restoring all of the photos in certain threads, for example? If so, would you let us know when you finish restoring a thread?
Thanks.
Not really but thanks. I'm doing what I can with the space I have available. My drive to do it comes from the fact that at some point the stuff from photobucket will just "poof" - disappear. I've come across some funny stuff that is well worth preserving. I can't do everything so I am revising my posts and trimming picture counts where I can still preserve the overall content. If I can get the number of photobucket images down to 250 (not likely) - then those will be preserved as well (you can have a free account with up to 250 images) - without their stupid stamp plastered across them.
There are a number of other members on the forum that have similar situations (I even noticed at least one of your images).
In particular (and I'm not trying to call anyone out here) - as an example - I noticed Bruce used the service a lot on the rebolting thread posts and Shane along with some others used it exclusively.
Seems like it's been a couple years since the whole thing started (Noal first made me aware of it if I remember correctly), so I'll be curious to see how long it will take them to start deleting accounts - if ever.
It would be a shame to see stuff lost.
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Extra long bucket list.
Some of them are making my F$%ckit List.
But don't worry - I am catching and keeping a lot of the good stuff.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50261539371_0f15064e02.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50262823193_05a222eb33_w.jpg)
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I have been deep in a masochistic quest to restore photos that got hijacked by photobucket many moons ago.
Not much to do with all these fires burning and smoke/heat at Pinns rock-blocking my real work.
I've been coming across some photos and some old posts that I completely forgot about and getting some pretty good laughs and having some fun - so it's not really all that torturous. I know none of it really amounts to a hill of beans in the big scheme of things but what the hey. When I finish, I plan to post my favorite pics of all time. I already have a few in mind.
I've learned a few tricks the last couple days. Thanks for the idea Kat and thanks for the tech tip Aaron.
The smoke is awful this morning - the wind seems to have stopped and the fog is holding it close.
I won't be going out this morning/today if it stays like this. I have been lucky the last 3 days to get out and ride.
As far as the pictures go, I am still working.
It's silly how much time we spend "worrying" about things that really just don't matter but it gives me something to do and maybe this fix will last long beyond the point of me caring.
I heard something interesting the other day that hadn't ever really occurred to me.
By the time we are sixty, we have spent 20 years sleeping.
I guess 60 really is the new 40.
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Okay - I need some help.
I am re-posting pics and Kat says she does not see them on her computer.
I need confirmation from some of you folks to let me know I am not wasting my time.
Pretty please?
Try these
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=2119.0
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=2124.0
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=2112.0
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nope, i checked one thread and no picture
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Nada
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nope, i checked one thread and no picture
Nada
Damnit! Okay - thanks - two more no-go's is good.
I'll go to plan B
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Tattoo on forehead...
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I think that you are on plan C
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Kline you may have to help him.
How goes the ball busting, I mean bike riding?
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Kline you may have to help him.
How goes the ball busting, I mean bike riding?
I'm paddling along slowly.
Geezus - if he helps I'll never get it done. :lol: :arf:
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I think that you are on plan C
Plan no see, Clink.
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I think that you are on plan C
Plan no see, Clink.
He is clink the clever.
,
Plan A failed (photobucket) due to no fault of my own.
Plan B had some glitches but Aaron helped me work them out.
Now plan see is working but I am starting back at the beginning.
The good news is with unlimited space I can restore everything.
The bad news is it takes time. I am 30 pages in so far.
Only 240 pages left.
The process is akin to aid climbing.
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534 pictures restored so far. It's pretty fun going back and looking at all this old stuff.
Man - I used to write some loooong TR's!
Some of the discussions are pretty damn funny too - interesting to see how things have evolved over the years.
I love the feeling when I finish a page and refresh it - then see that photobucket stamp disappear - poof!
I think I am getting tendonitis from all this clicking :lol:
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534 pictures restored so far. It's pretty fun going back and looking at all this old stuff.
Man - I used to write some loooong TR's!
Some of the discussions are pretty damn funny too - interesting to see how things have evolved over the years.
I love the feeling when I finish a page and refresh it - then see that photobucket stamp disappear - poof!
I think I am getting tendonitis from all this clicking :lol:
I for one would be tickled if you'd post links with these updates you're posting. Links to the restored threads that you like best.
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looking at all this old stuff.
Selfies?
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Oh yeah, speaking of that out of season, 112 degree climbing area, I did about my 35th FA of the season up here last week and named it honor of Noal and of Pinnacles. Here's a description that will have all of you swarming to climb the area:
The Bad Example 5.5
a. [Omitted for this post.]
b. Description: Climb a dirty, bushy crack to a bushy chimney to the right of Strawberry Field, but well left of Happy Start (listed next). Finish on the roomy ledge just under 20 feet right of the Earn Your Stripes’ top anchor. This finish is just in front of the first pitch, gear belay for Happy Start; belay for this route in the same place, using small gear.
c. Descent: Move left to the Earn Your Stripes’ top anchor; rappel 50 feet.
d. Gear: One to three inches.
e. FA Party/Date: Brad Young, Charles Field, Jeff Germain, August 27, 2020.
f. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
g. Other: One of the rare granite climbs that receives a “coveted” A.T.D.S. rating (Absolute Total Dog Shit).
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^^^
Be the bad example Danny.
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I'm flattered. Thank you.
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It's pretty fun going back and looking at all this old stuff.
Selfies?
Quit taking my quotes out of context.
I said fun.
Not funny looking.
Speaking of funny looking - I came across the post where you joined the forum
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3elsZlliYoKhugCNvGAy9G9BjuuzvuehaGWY6kvBaU1EPiDye71hmL5Xe_99EEVxBjzBZUaigO5MkDd2dqq_mxWlqldVdAX7gKr0wM8K4A8aEM_GHHPfDVTk62gBa7lBwnUFVlCm9_arB0Uvg5iEDOp=w800-h600-no?authuser=0)
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I'm flattered. Thank you.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cj-HWxFT1rITIyg5lnLTeHBPh9LWx-cyMOE_y294UKOMEpkTWIR4WuCBt42xJ2C7Ve5KOhP8vl8YCasN0xb8h3uoKqJt9Aec6tEK1PMi5BxY8eA4XLSJ2kQSgEuM5BVGYEZzhJF8aVoQnx5-GHJ0Ph=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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^^^
I think I recognize exactly where that photo of Noal was taken. Deep, deep inside H and L Dome.
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Feather Canyon?
Chimney Nose guard, genius.
Isn't that sticker a key component to the bolt? Like without, the bolt fails???
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Cumplete and udder failyer
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dGLnJhh8Zmo3B-BtzYvT7moUIEPqPL3gbwH-T9j4S9OJBdNd1_QZ06RvkMEEvzee94EADa_jZQfAyrYVt6FrAv9kqtd2a7vV5qWMGGQFfj4mcwtJ5lZfnkvINcS2MnK63-GKHPytj4q9WiyJkdd3NE=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Great one of the Chief Mischief Maker!
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534 pictures restored so far. It's pretty fun going back and looking at all this old stuff.
Man - I used to write some loooong TR's!
Some of the discussions are pretty damn funny too - interesting to see how things have evolved over the years.
I love the feeling when I finish a page and refresh it - then see that photobucket stamp disappear - poof!
I think I am getting tendonitis from all this clicking :lol:
Not sure how many pictures JC uploaded the last few days, but I just finished proofing his posts to make sure all the pictures are showing up without photo bucket stamped across them. If was fun looking back at some of the old post. I think my favorites were the pics from MOM weekends, PCAD weekends, Kat Pinnacle and the Tuffchix post.
If anyone happens to see any JC posts with photo bucket still stamped on a picture, please let him know.
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Not sure how many pictures JC uploaded the last few days, but I just finished proofing his posts to make sure all the pictures are showing up without photo bucket stamped across them.
849 files uploaded.
Thanks for being my QC
A lot of the really good stuff was already restored.
I still felt it was a worthwhile endeavor and one that took perseverance.
There were only a few posts that I could not correct where I had quoted someone's picture that also used photobucket.
It was my way of saying ESAD to photobucket one last time.
I would not want to do it again.
It was a welcome relief to hit the squeal point this morning when I saw Noal's post informing me of the ransom.
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Ball Pinnacle
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ft3NOO1ys4IvaPMbJWYYIn4AhHuhpxb3jZXL3KnaVqnkBAkrZiB5gLUwUlXx-_paLGcGbdxrc5LDRiMJKtMLhzpIj3URUh4H6N9lGGsin__4u2pLeslJE3tAT1WSyLTc4tH8G6S9IxqLFS1b7mU_MY=w400-h533-no?authuser=0)
After a long day working on The Inn Crowd
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c1JKxcs9-bi0wg7iSQmzkOnn4619vRgxZtQF1lJ4wMsUfgJb4Pikc4eyeBe8YCuGV4A02N4Vv8yYi4fcHV8OMUmPIrY1zQw6roOfEtLIRRxGgEg1M8uLWnGlRbM-KiPkuUdDQOL14F91kJdoLNAf6f=w750-h563-no?authuser=0)
1st time leading Alias Bandit Bench
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fVG2GTF8NNYQMz3naebaf1L7rod0T1jtxP7Xx_c_Xn7NklO_-8kx8jxAJgjRw7efdXBR-OakWHxlbH6IuVowm7mvH0ZDbzr7yVUVwa-i_cZyzmdTVUdUjLY86rfsTVI-5OzWO1zWNkH6jZHFQuyt17=w629-h625-no?authuser=0)
100th lead - Young Generations
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3egIPCNwRvNYeBZOhcDzQvQSxv2jxPMNWUMUiuauiCkufw8GqNajD66im1_gM0lXx0kkSCRKe-vNUyFTRaZBX0Sb0T8oVwraKGCWraT-LK7sRf-5T3njfm9YH_1P7sd9cJiuAzA3NBqbjxnul3Dt-gF=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
clink on Swayback Granny
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50265496702_e4dfa11701_z.jpg)
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Hummingbird Spire
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cgE0Y5ptnJbTFwQN9Y_3BqA-hwysEOErkAQS7E8R-jD60rg1S3IlMpQJYOOYxBGb14jQjmJ2TtSv9SS2kX00DfrnmUmXVsjfmetI4CwBfJJwyzecJob7TTJR55xOYzgm4xyAzhw0kVyI7I2my2O27j=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
KY Woman
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50267727321_c245043071_z.jpg)
Mug Shot
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50260424353_be26f58541_z.jpg)
Over Easy or Scrambled
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50265417767_8f3de30929_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50260227438_fc0c8b4cd0.jpg)
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388.26 Class Clown 5.7 * This fun and well protected route is located on the left side of Dunce Cap's north face. Eight bolts protect climbing to a good stance below the summit block. Avoid poor rock on this block by traversing around right to a two bolt anchor. The route is 65 feet long, but the rappel down the formation's west side is only 50 feet. FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Noal Elkins, Brad Young, Kathy Cook. FA Date: January 1, 2016.
The ORIGINAL name of the route was "Trump This". Unnamed person(s) felt a political connotation would ensue, which was self fulfilling, procuring a name change. This being what it is, with 3 3/4 years passed and a pandemic that hasn't, I strongly suggest the name of this route be called "Classless Clown".
I put this to vote by any of the conglomerate of Mud 'n Crudders.
Note; Only one vote by a person(even for those with multiple personalities). Voting more than once will negate that individual's vote.
Clink-Yea
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388.26 Class Clown 5.7 * This fun and well protected route is located on the left side of Dunce Cap's north face. Eight bolts protect climbing to a good stance below the summit block. Avoid poor rock on this block by traversing around right to a two bolt anchor. The route is 65 feet long, but the rappel down the formation's west side is only 50 feet. FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Noal Elkins, Brad Young, Kathy Cook. FA Date: January 1, 2016.
The ORIGINAL name of the route was "Trump This". Unnamed person(s) felt a political connotation would ensue, which was self fulfilling, procuring a name change. This being what it is, with 3 3/4 years passed and a pandemic that hasn't, I strongly suggest the name of this route be called "Classless Clown".
I put this to vote by any of the conglomerate of Mud 'n Crudders.
Note; Only one vote by a person(even for those with multiple personalities). Voting more than once will negate that individual's vote.
Clink-Yea
JC - Nay.
I recently modified the original post I made where the "fix" /word filter automatically changed the route name to "I am an idiot - Please ship me to Mexico..."
The current name was chosen to honor George Carlin (also mentioned in that same edit).
Here is my edited post.
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=886.msg34635#msg34635
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“Political correctness is America's newest form of intolerance, and it is especially pernicious because it comes disguised as tolerance. It presents itself as fairness, yet attempts to restrict and control people's language with strict codes and rigid rules. I'm not sure that's the way to fight discrimination. I'm not sure silencing people or forcing them to alter their speech is the best method for solving problems that go much deeper than speech.” George Carlin
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This is the reason I haven't been questing (besides the extreme heat and disgusting air quality).
This is also a "bit" disgusting but Behold the Gold.
I think I will drill the root, thread in some heavy, waxed dental floss and put it in with my micro stoppers.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fXjP5OdneTsO-GLKPXVd8_D3wxDT7_9B_34jxD5AUC_jAMykNY7GU4Q-Ifo8Jrs5N9-OKIZsGcEvzsDA8tdRvywWDuKFURyhmo2TpZwAkDPr6JIKoSPEN2HmZuI3T2tsKvhT1yp83aFH2mGc-JvfYI=w548-h412-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cFu2EzR0RWbuPVfO_Z388B8zxkA5JKZIPgDdZb91XbZPhaPfHka-osURHpK5bjDLzJy14CKhKp-fFJbFLbX8nkO6xdTcW-CP0i1WoYji7YRepwAvZMIKgMyjiQMQY3SJLs5l0SQmTMmQFcdWcb6APQ=w573-h430-no?authuser=0)
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George Carlin aside, I suggest the name be changed to "Classless Clown". The fact remains that a group of climbers who named a route, bowed to political sensitivities and change the name of the route. This makes the naming process on this route's particular history politically influenced.
As a compromise I would allow the current name to rest with "aka Trump This" added to the route name.
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This is the reason I haven't been questing (besides the extreme heat and disgusting air quality).
A bit disgusting but Behold the Gold.
I think I will drill the root, thread in some heavy, waxed dental floss and put it in with my micro stoppers.
That is gross! :)
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George Carlin aside, I suggest the name be changed to "Classless Clown". The fact remains that a group of climbers who named a route, bowed to political sensitivities and change the name of the route. This makes the naming process on this route's particular history politically influenced.
As a compromise I would allow the current name to rest with "aka Trump This" added to the route name.
No political connotation was ever intended.
I thought Class Clown fit better with the formation name too - Dunce Cap.
At the time, I was fine with changing it, although I agree that political and other sensitivities have no place on this forum or in route names or climbing in general. It's all supposed to be about fun and having a sense of humor. I also admit that I have learned that latter part the hard way and have had my share of "if I could do it over I would..." moments along the way.
We could still do the line below the rappel (probably not worth the bother) and call it Stand In The Corner or Parochial Paddling.
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That is gross! :)
It was already removed once for sensitivity - along with necrosis and abscess/infection.
Should I remove it again due to your sensitivity? :lol:
I'll clean it up, polish it and put it in a little jewelry box for you. :ciappa:
Speaking of sensitivity - remember this?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50267956402_5f3ddc131e_z.jpg)
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You don't like doctors/surgeons, do you?
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You don't like doctors/surgeons, do you?
In general no. Similar to some other professions - I find people generally don't like them until they need one - then they want the best - and unfortunately, like anything else - there are good ones and bad ones.
You know what they call someone who graduates at the bottom of their class in med school? Doctor.
My grandpa was a drunk and he used to say he knew a lot more old drunks than he did old doctors.
Substance abuse of all kinds among doctors is common - so maybe quite a few old doctors are also old drunks.
Do you know the secret to living a long, happy life? Stay away from doctors.
All that aside - I did like this oral surgeon (no nonsense, Navy trained, been practicing 43 years) and his assistant was top notch.
I would recommend him without hesitation. :thumbup: :yesnod:
I would not want to arm wrestle him :frown2: :crying: :arf:
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I absolutely detest the person associated with that name. I think either Noal or I placed at least one bolt on the route. We both agree fuck that. My best Herman Munster; I hate im, I hate im, I hate im. Is that politically insensitive enough?
388.26 Class Clown 5.7 * This fun and well protected route is located on the left side of Dunce Cap's north face. Eight bolts protect climbing to a good stance below the summit block. Avoid poor rock on this block by traversing around right to a two bolt anchor. The route is 65 feet long, but the rappel down the formation's west side is only 50 feet. FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Noal Elkins, Brad Young, Kathy Cook. FA Date: January 1, 2016.
The ORIGINAL name of the route was "Trump This". Unnamed person(s) felt a political connotation would ensue, which was self fulfilling, procuring a name change. This being what it is, with 3 3/4 years passed and a pandemic that hasn't, I strongly suggest the name of this route be called "Classless Clown".
I put this to vote by any of the conglomerate of Mud 'n Crudders.
Note; Only one vote by a person(even for those with multiple personalities). Voting more than once will negate that individual's vote.
Clink-Yea
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So are you saying that classless clown is appropriate?
I detest him, voted to keep the shit show out and will again.
What bothers me more than a little, is giving that moron the power to control a word associated with his fucking name.
I won't bow to that way of thinking.
Do we change the (former?) "Hillary Step" on Everest to "Edmund's Way"? Change all descriptions of a "bush" to a "shrub"? A reference to a "bill", now an "amount owed", "Beak" or "what's due"?
It seems that the best name for this route may be TABOO.
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So this morning I get a decent cup of coffee and head out to see what's open for breakfast during the pandemic, in SF.
There is a nice place for takeout on the corner of Post and Taylor, but it's not open till 8am. I walk around the corner, stop to sip my coffee and check out the various high-rise architecture above me.
A guy walks up from Geary and asks me for money. I reply, no thank you. He says something about why he needs the money and I say that I have a large family and won't be giving him money today.
This has happened many times in various forms and places I'm sure to everyone who ventures in public. I played music on the street a couple of times and have been given money. Sometimes I give money, share food, but most of the time I decline.
The person that got my extra money was the server that brought us salad and tacos last night.
The mother fucker calls me a liar. I say what the FUCK! He pulls what I think is a cell phone out of his pocket and throws it on the sidewalk and gets all bowed up and yells I know karate! I say that I spent my life tearing buildings apart with my hands and putting them back together again. He walks away backwards telling the street how tuff he is, until he disappears.
Almost as dangerous as work, but I'm on fucking vacation.
I order eggs and hash browns, find a place to sit and check out the latest posts on Mud N' Crud.
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Politics change what is and is not appropriate. I used to on occasion use the term trumpted up or that trumpts in a sentence. I almost always search for different words and I am not alone on this. On occasion a person or an event comes along and it is significant enough that it changes current societal norms. This is one of them. And it is not over, if you think it is ugly today wait until tomorrow.
Use whatever name you want, it is your route. But, if that page in the guidebook has his name on it I will tear it out, burn it, and offer it to whatever God will take it. Fuck him.
Also to be clear, Hilary is no Trump. If she did half of what this guy has done she really would be in prison. Plus she actually accomplished some good take some time out and look into what she has accomplished in regards to healthcare.
So are you saying that classless clown is appropriate?
I detest him, voted to keep the shit show out and will again.
What bothers me more than a little, is giving that moron the power to control a word associated with his fucking name.
I won't bow to that way of thinking.
Do we change the (former?) "Hillary Step" on Everest to "Edmund's Way"? Change all descriptions of a "bush" to a "shrub"? A reference to a "bill", now an "amount owed", "Beak" or "what's due"?
It seems that the best name for this route may be TABOO.
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The fact remains that a group of climbers who named a route, bowed to political sensitivities and change the name of the route. This makes the naming process on this route's particular history politically influenced
You guys named the route the original name without even asking me.
I think either Noal or I placed at least one bolt on the route
I placed one bolt on that route. Earlier that day we looked at a really weird convoluted looking line on the upper part of the chimney sweep formation. I suggested we look at something better nearby that I had spotted when working on the Deep Groove Wall.
We each placed a bolt called it a day and agreed to return. You guys went back with Brad and Kathy and I did not come with. Cant remember why. Maybe I was getting my hair done or something.
Anyway, when I heard what you guys named the route I did not like it. Mainly because it is too easy for someone to misconstrue the association with Nitwit Knob and think we are Trump supporters. Too ambiguous. Maybe something about Tinkle on the Orangutang would've been better.
Long story short I found the route showed it to you guys and then you finished it and named it without asking me what I thought. Honestly, at the time that rubbed me the wrong way.
Why are we re-hashing this? I dont find it too productive and considered it water under the bridge. I dont harbor any hard feelings and thought we had all put it in the past. I guess not.
Clink, I hope you are having a good vacation in SF. Having lived there for 10 years or so(6 of those at Geary and Leavenworth one block from your altercation) my advice to you is do not engage with panhandlers. Either completely ignore them or just say no. The guys around Union Square are seasoned pros and very aggressive and unstable. Enjoy your vacation and dont play into their hands.
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Noal, I am you man. I have bolts.....Mr Mud told me I can have his projects...
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Good advice Noal . Going to see Kate, Eric and Izzy. They live near Leavenworth. This is the 3rd time they have lived on Leavenworth.
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Good advice Noal . Going to see Kate, Eric and Izzy. They live near Leavenworth. This is the 3rd time they have lived on Leavenworth.
Better than living in Leavenworth.
Looks like the city is broiling.
Watch your tenderloin...
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...Mr Mud told me I can have his projects...
You better start eating your wheaties.
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You better start eating your wheaties.
Mr Mud should be on the box!
Factor could be on the back (much smaller picture) eating a carrot :lol:
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They closed the park for fire danger until further notice.
You can hike from the campground to Bear Gulch and no further.
That makes Peaks View Pinnacle and Flake Don't Break your only choices for climbing.
The campground remains open.
The only thing left to do is a rain dance.
What we need now is a major earthquake and a super volcano mega eruption.
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definitely start your daily rain dance
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We need rain to put out the fires plus to get the toxic smoke and particles out of the air. Gavin gets mad props for rescuing a condor chick from the Dolan fire over on the coast.
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What we need now is a major earthquake and a super volcano mega eruption.
OR!!!!
a SHARKNADO!!!!
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definitely start your daily rain dance
Please film and post to YouTube. Make sure and dance to Neil Young Crazy Horse Like a Hurricane.
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No Neil Young
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That fire kinda came close to his ranch.
Took a ride on Sunday. Went down Tunitas then back up thru San Gregorio to West Alpine. Pescadero road over Haskins appeared to be open with traffic going over. Will have to check that out this weekend. Could not drop down into Portola Redwoods from trailhead on Alpine. All that stuff is closed. They must be using Old Haul to get back and forth to what's still burning. Something is still burning cuz it was still smoky on Alpine Road. Took a small snooze on the slab by the phone boxes.
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It looks like temps are finally cooling down and rain is in the forecast (only a slight chance but it's at least a chance).
I made a plea to the NPS to reopen Pinnacles (the current "open" situation is severely restricted - one hair away from being closed).
In a nutshell - the gates are open but none of the "meaningful" trails are open and climbing has been specifically targeted (look at the NPS Pinnacles website for details).
My plea has as yet gone unanswered - so I added an invocation.
It's time (past time) to renew the Quest and continue our "good works".
Call or write the park and any and all powers that be. The time to sit idly by has passed.
TIME TO RAISE A RUCKUS!
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keep it closed!
Lets the birds take over.
Slow Brad down on the route count.
The place has gone to Crud ever since Mr. Mud left town.
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TIME TO RAISE A RUCKUS!
Or buy a snowmobile?
Don't tell Brad I said that. He's already pestered me to go to Pinns this season.
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Or buy a snowmobile?
Don't tell Brad I said that. He's already pestered me to go to Pinns this season.
Actually, Brad is somewhat literate.
And I don't pester. I just point out that certain people are becoming has-beens.
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I resemble that comment.
Mungie, will you go climbing with me??
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none of the "meaningful" trails are open and climbing has been specifically targeted (look at the NPS Pinnacles website for details)
So off trail cross country is o.k? If you are working on a new route is it really a climbing route and off limits? Asking for a friend.
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So off trail cross country is o.k? If you are working on a new route is it really a climbing route and off limits? Asking for a friend.
Evidently knot but...
not to worry...
Good news is imminent :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
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Yes, I have good news....I was regular today.
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Yes, I have good news....I was regular today.
Does that need to go on the Historic or the poop thread?
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Actually, Brad is somewhat literate.
And I don't pester. I just point out that certain people are becoming has-beens.
I "has been" climbing at Pinns as recently as June.
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STARTING TOMORROW FRIDAY 10-9-20
Gates are open. Pandemic guidelines are still in place.
All trails EXCEPT cave trails on both sides are open.
Parking lots on the east side are FINALLY OPEN.
Woohoo!
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Good news! Thank you John.
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What are you suggesting?
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I can has cheeseburger?
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Actually, Brad is somewhat literate.
And I don't pester.
What?!
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Tomorrow will be two weeks since Kat and I did this route.
Zay has asked about it a couple times over the last year or so - so hopefully he is still watching.
I too have been curious about it and have been eyeballing it from afar since we did several of the other old routes on the formation.
clink has regaled me repeatedly with tales of the time he and Geoff climbed it back in the day - before cams were available.
All right, all right - enough already. What route you say?
Proclamation Pinnacle - North Summit Crack 5.7
In brief - the route description says climb 60 feet up a crack to a ledge - then traverse the ledge to an unprotected 100 foot chimney.
Use stoppers and a double set of cams to 4 inches. Hmmmmm...
You have to wonder why you need all that gear for 60 feet?
Go climb the route and you'll find out.
I placed about 15 pieces on the first pitch and three at the anchor.
I took a #6 too - just in case the chimney squeezed down enough to be protectable at some point. I ended up using it on the first pitch.
The route from a distance
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c4VpMt-jC--dr0sBJRA4W4KpdKDb6-cp3zTpmcKexDveATN1M29AngVUVN8r-HbAi_0BMWIrbLVp7yRkCUG-MdZsSn9BOGpEjsXdUshq6lAsQX9At3z4MWAEGYUfLiPEHC3pZy1gPQqKpx-_TMO9nr=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
Why you can't see the bottom of the route from a distance. Looking down from the base of the route to west side parking, the parking lot is completely obscured.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d-rlX8jWLQ00IxQwLet3RoaxdPYtH85NdDsaVNjwOSjofzdZwV2abEV4RmVpdrKyy52SSjAkDvHwQ1iXycbWUphVUiK1YgNBXgHZAceVqDL8dwGy0VqOBuHXWUvzzRyg8H2BXro0WSIXphpoFhWwa0=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
The first pitch from below (standing back a bit). It's the classic "looks easy from here". It's not.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cMyfqxU9hOveU_uGPLYfj5v4gHQG9cSWejS-hmuOgFg9AxKna2lSTJKbkwYr8OojtjkopHBpbm3iPjrxTFvUc1g9zLHEwV5O3ge2DhSkJraN4rHnF4p_yzfri_QsQ3BrBkbMqQpL2_aXkY6Ore0kbh=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Looking up the chimney from directly below. That's right - the green you see is a massive thicket of PO
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3frqICa8VAZDEymxRmfBy4VD-_fLApN8Zv0wTLtECUu4R0omcPA9BWJh2weL2s_3jLwpPGQHpSrH26bJHjZerjaeSvNQ1XvMkM66xkXC-h03e-VjIg5Sh-cLWfP3KSTmTiBep90cL3YMP8HYdJuGAID=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
Time to get on the sharp end.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e3KbonRE1eUNkHw2Si20yWIdWWT9f02r-g5qXWvbMuQJK2ChkK8Nqbl0RlcjpAHKPPA0arirRvLs-ZkZgoZC4oLGZcCrzVBFaYdO6tHpe0if4g85BnE8hm26s0Jd28HUoRA9M2MUVycrwqHPRrZNyY=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3et-c6e1-lXRgCLxjrQTR66nRYmuZcXnMsTnyLklTEcnyxjuyg2-j4H25f-r09-xNJra34AM-omSXqCyF68IXT0wsp3iJ2NEdpR6pgisJAUnVtwkHF38A72M5tVEg8U-smGHV-0ixkz9xpNMLNgcBRA=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Having lunch on The Can after the route (sorry - no pictures of the chimney).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3flXdl8_SZOHfiEIiRib4LaOt2rPkOpGOjqvuEucIMB7NqY-4mK7CXGhBIqr9v6az9DCEHf8gKd6vm-OGkVpqZ8XSlfP9uNJN8utixLY_MzEKdiszlIuRf2Ty31VNOW30C1zDaN-2SHC5J6cVuif5so=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
There is a lot more to the story.
Suffice it to say, I woke up in the middle of the night afterwards feeling glad to be alive.
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I fixed the picture links - Google has been acting up today with my machine telling me I need to update Windows.
I'll let Tuff Chik give you her impressions of the day - ie what she was thinking while following the climb.
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While climbing the first pitch of the route and seeing all the moss, broken-up rock, removing gear that might have slowed him down (a few pieces might have held) and just wondering what might break on me, I started thinking how lucky we were that nothing broke while he was climbing.
Once I traversed over and figured out how to get in to the chimney I finally relaxed a little. However, once he took off up the chimney with no protection to be had and pieces of rock coming down the chimney (sometimes smacking me and/or my helmet) I started wondering how crazy we must be.
Me climbing the 100 foot chimney is a story for the campfire ...
I'm glad this is a route I never have to follow again.
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While climbing the first pitch of the route and seeing all the moss, broken-up rock, removing gear that might have slowed him down (a few pieces might have held) and just wondering what might break on me, I started thinking how lucky we were that nothing broke while he was climbing.
You'll recall I did not use the phrase - "If this goes...I'm gone" :lol:
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...I'm glad this is a route I never have to follow again.
Nope. Now you'll have to lead it.
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Nope. Now you'll have to lead it.
Chance Brothers
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PO and loose shit, are you guys crazy??!!!!
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You were off route. Supposed to go through the PO bush. Invalid ascent. You will need to go back for a repeat. Bring hazmat suit.
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You were off route. Supposed to go through the PO bush. Invalid ascent. You will need to go back for a repeat. Bring hazmat suit.
Funny you should say that.
The original description in Richard's guidebook says use the first crack left of the chimney - which would put you right in the thicket.
It doesn't take much investigation to realize that description is flawed.
The climbing is highlee and unlikelee (for clink) and the rock before that crack is all loose. Somebody goofed.
Now as far as being off route in the chimney?
Who the hell knows?
You're climbing 100 feet with absolutely no indication/evidence of where the FA party went.
You have to be fairly familiar with the other routes (since you eventually join them).
It is a series of moving up and then in, up and then in, lather, rinse, repeat...all while trying not to kill the belayer with rockfall.
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I second the motion. Full PO or denied!
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I second the motion. Full PO or denied!
Nah, we'll cut the guy some slack.
For every 100 old bolts he's replaced at Pinnacles he gets credit for one "in good style" lead, even if that lead is made while avoiding poison oak.
You've got a few more credits still coming, J.C.
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Nope, you gotta press through the PO.
Rules are rules.....
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You guys can press on through the PO.
We did both manage to get a little rock rash from the chimney if it makes you feel any better.
Mine
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f2ejLG_q037UuzE72azkzcaVwAMT0fNurhllYUCYVE-o-BLN8_0HWfBGlrNzh_Uu_qnkeSsHfcNnA3tIsT0DY5FpqEjJAr9_B48EHVXGRJWynrNHxtSz8F30wD57091h3PfqVCjXAzN6Jx_h1--zFg=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Kat marred her perfect tan and the last of the scabs are still falling off more than 2 weeks later. (pic was taken 2 days after the climb)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f3RFauhyFPu4_kD1-oCz3puwVcVDCpCGrPJmieT74lEFxv7Qn73Lz8OEFdWMUO0_jwckBAB1P_vIoYaOY_QpUfRwrLvX1SeQD2aTxp9Eg8iuZA8oY1Yw6MIV0wSLYhrbNy3vOXE_8YKcniPracXxg8=w834-h626-no?authuser=0)
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^^^
Yuck!
That old saying that "you can't fall out of a chimney?"
It doesn't apply if you bleed so much that you lube yourself right off.
How long before that ascent was your last COVID test. And I wonder how long any virus could survive in blood puddles on shaded rock.
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I forgot to mention that when I was about 50 feet up the chimney, I whacked my funny bone like I never have before.
My whole arm started tingling and felt both numb and hot at the same time. Great timing to temporarily lose the use of an arm!
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Sick, just Sick!!!!
You just gotta relax when inside the maw.
That and tape your backside.....free hair removal.
We need a stickie thread on maw routes sorted by the heinous grade.
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^^^
Yes - because climbing an "easy" chimney for 100 feet unprotected is soooooo relaxing :yawn:
I wasn't going to post those pics but figured why not. My back looked similar after I climbed Flimsy Flume.
I remember Noal's back looking like that after climbing Toadstool.
I had a t-shirt on. Kat had her usual tank top on. It was another 95 degree day.
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Quest denied.
As I foretold (I'm a soothsayer now) - the weather finally cooled down enough to be enjoyable and here comes the rain.
.22 inches overnight and 40 degrees this morning.
Yesterday was decent enough but life got in the way.
Seems to be a theme this year but we keep muddling through.
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Just to keep things rolling.
Just when you thought it was safe.
The temp dropped 10 degrees in the last hour accompanied by almost a full tenth of an inch of rain - brrrrr for anyone caught out in the Monument this afternoon without rain gear. Must have poured.
Q: Why must it always be feast or famine?
A: Because Pinnacles is a place of extremes.
On a sad note, we lost Alex Trebek. :imsad:
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Pounded in some bolts with Noal today.
Good to see you buddy and renew the quest.
Can't believe it was a year (last time we were out was 11-2-19)
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Just in case anyone on here was planning to Quest for Mud Monday-Thursday this week. PNP posted this on their FB page this week:
Due to road construction, the west entrance of Pinnacles National Park will be closed to all vehicles starting Monday, November 16 through Thursday, November 19. All park trails remain open, but cars must enter through the east entrance during those four days. We apologize for the inconvenience and we thank you for your continued patience and understanding.
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It was nice today. I took James up Coastanoan. This was his 1st multi-pitch route. And what a route to get started on.
He kept re,I ding me around people, aren’t you in the guidebook???
Such a pleasant route.
WTF is up with the entrance fee...$30!!!
Where have I been? Wait don’t answer that....
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Congratulations, must be cool to get our with you son
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He puts up with my shenanigans, you know rapping off 1 but, down climbing with a slung knob as pro....usual pinnacles tricks.
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Amazing day at the high peaks. So nice to clip new bolts up there.
1:45 from parking lot to Condor Crags.
Good to see you Brad!
I need witnesses that I am back in the Monument (as long as the entrance fee is free).
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^^^
Who is this?
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Spent a good part of today shaking my head and walking away from shit routes.
Finally got smart and went over and led Little Javelina.
F4 and James caught up with us before I pulled the rope and F4 took a lap.
Parking lot was a zoo. Trails were pretty crowded. Temps were nice.
Chatted with Dan in the parking lot afterwards and stopped by the winery to pick up our thrice yearly vino offering.
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Thanks again for the belay!!!!
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Thanks again for the belay!!!!
Sure thing dude - nice clean run.
Here's a couple obligatory butt shots from my lead.
There was a leaver draw on the 4th bolt at what I perceived to be the squeal point (pun intended).
I was already pumped and looking at the 15 foot spacing to the next bolt (Gavin spacing :lol: :devildevil: )
There was no other choice for me except to go for it. I told Kat to get ready to catch me.
When I finally got through the next sustained section to a good stance, I told Kat I was probably going to stand there for half an hour.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dxjaAvT-HbcWxWZFLv9SeGyy1AM447O1prAb1veGnuRsE3hFSRWP3kiIUNSFx1PrF9eSqesbhu-IjzBQZGg1I6PZcvcSXRsrEbLBXXKUxqlL8hyPsLWZ7M0vJ29ZTzqpmaayCGs-4rFKTOYgtIJ5OU=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Doing my best to rest early on.
I remembered Gavin telling me there was a section where you'd wish the next bolt was closer.
I could tell I was there when I got to the leaver draw at bolt 4 and replaced it with one of my own.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dxb0unN07F2rwenV-1TcoAJE0if7eleV5tmAoFFPrOd7eFX5-r1C57EmXoYsXKOdsIEeg7TjLoUchPVfLJkv6TM0zyAx-ECSxbWmjaZKvCdpHQKEp_XVhrj3rUPjcOFKQ37duAfShUVSMSlvRpWQ0G=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
I had a couple scares early on. Moving out left past the first bolt, the rope somehow got hung on the top of my draws/gear loop on my left side (luckily didn't get clipped in to anything while I was moving - I always face my gates in). The first pic above was taken after getting that straightened out. The other thing that happened was the rope got hung on a flake between bolts 3 and 4. I couldn't shake that loose until I got through the sustained section from bolts 4 to 6. I used alpine draws on every bolt.
Rope hung on a flake between bolts 3 and 4
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c982JQX53K310BAClOWiWwI-QS_wr1UJXZAgewc4FeEkJY5LP3nbillT71X_Z9zjxSimI5CfiIeUbynkC8nkzRyEmnJksz1-hoAfheiVed0MsvWcR8EaUOWma2eDBeQWnyweA6_7nnf3g9kuE8R23K=w387-h515-no?authuser=0)
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^^^
Proud lead, John. it may not be happening fast, but you're getting noticeably better and better.
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^^^
Proud lead, John. it may not be happening fast, but you're getting noticeably better and better.
Thanks dude.
Makin' good memories.
I was still shaking at the belay.
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I worked through two tanks of chainsaw gas yesterday and still have eight fingers and two thumbs. And all of my toes.
So "safely first" seems to have worked for more than one of us for the day.
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I was still shaking at the belay.
Life at its best
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Yes...nice lead there John. Bummed I missed it, but glad you gave me a run up it. I'd love to lead it in a few weeks.
After taking a run up it...I can see 3x 5.9 cruxes. Might have to say as a lead.....10a for sure. The mid sections, yikes!
Rock is just amazing!
**** for sure
I always thought is was safety 3rd.
Yes, Brad we were wondering if we would have seen your car.
James and I made it to the parking lot at 7:30 and were out on the trail by 8.
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Thanks dude.
Makin' good memories.
I was still shaking at the belay.
Great work, John! Hard and clean is much better than crumbly!
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Nice work and strong lead John - Little Javelina is one of my favorite 5.9s at Pinnacles, and it is sustained for sure. The lack of protection bolts up high towards the anchor keeps it spicy.
I think it is potentially a 5.10a as well - the rock is great and there are a number of good stems, but it still keeps you working the whole way.
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Nice John, that's a great climb and a bit of a spooky lead. FWIW I think it's 10a.
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Little Javelina is one of my favorite 5.9s at Pinnacles, and it is sustained for sure
I second that.
It is sustained, but there are several good spots where you can rest and check out the next sections. That's why I love the route so much.
Well done, John!
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Nice John, that's a great climb and a bit of a spooky lead. FWIW I think it's 10a.
How can we tell that MISTER MUD is getting old and feeble?
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^^^
He didn't say it's 5.7
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Yes, in part.
A feeble and febrile post by a young upstart who is obviously weak and wouldn't know 10a from 5.8 is up on this forum for over 12 hours... and... nothing from MISTER MUD. Nada. Zilch. Nothing.
Back when I was your age, MUD would have set the record straight at warp speed. And yes, he would have screwed up the record in the process (calling what's obviously a 5.9 a 5.7 is probably exactly correct). But isn't that what MUD does?
(New rule, by the way: It's always got to be all capitals, as in MISTER MUD.)
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And regarding upstarts and ratings. Note that fellow geriatric John led the damn thing and never, ever "upstarted" about it being 5.10a? Now, that's one of the of things that, back in the day...
The hell with it, I've got a chainsaw calling my name.
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Okay, lets put the rating into perspective....
It's a 5.9 route that is sustained 5.9, which for an over-all rating is close to a 10a
Comparable to Lava falls, just smaller holds. Harder than Wet Kiss.
So a sustained 5.9 not for the fledgling 5.9 leader.
i like 10a, but that's me.
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^^^
I'm confused by all these numbers.
I thought you liked carrots.
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I second that.
It is sustained, but there are several good spots where you can rest and check out the next sections. That's why I love the route so much.
Well done, John!
And here pitches in BAP. Now she's a REAL climber! Ratings to her? Hell, to her, everything is five two.
She just gets it done.
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In plain english.....It's a hard 5.9.
Mr Mud does have a simple mind.....it's 5.9 until he falls, then it's 10d.
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MUD doesn't fall.
He barely winters.
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Congrats John!
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not 10a
DIE
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Just to show that all 5.9's are not created equal (I already knew that :prrr:)
Tuesday I got shut down on the Smokestack - Swept Away 5.9.
I was actually glad that I did after I climbed Clean Sweep (again) to top out and then replace the top bolt on Swept Away and get a good look at the tree and flake it is growing behind. All three points - the tree, the flake and the bolt were total garbage (the tree and flake still are).
At the stance for bolt 1. The tree above is supposedly the next protection point. The first bolt seems too low and too far left to offer any protection for the crux (other than to keep you from bouncing all the way to the ground). At least three sizable patches of rock have been torn off to the right of the bolt from people trying to go that way. This climb has likely "evolved" over the years.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fH1lpH93kR9o8y9K3v1ZpXkVycJFSe4QiwLUhh4pfHm6G-nH_HvKB2mG-kLAhwCxrsIXSXVeVOsdR_4CjkxRnk7-5r85H-qYwAK8i-0s-viemHTqQ1esbpg9f06xQc_6DAqPkv8FfndmsY7-Ud8GPJ=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Here is the tree and flake from above (the tree trunk really blends in).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dCFisYwF9v7sTaHqvL1tyrQRslBDvTZN5AKC3-l4CawF4YKgZKcEPnlk45-Mzsqv_Ht9PTsAKROMdjeyobdurTqbjpiQGrqnwZBRqMrSHj9e-pQ5k3FyA9_tIOgRe1HU6r267mHpa6yab_8LJ07zE3=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
The tree is set to lever out on the rotten flake. I "tested" the right edge of the flake - you can see the result. A couple quick yanks will likely dislodge the entire thing. The tree growing behind the flake is a nice example of a type of physical/mechanical weathering I used to teach in my intro geology classes - known as root penetration (insert joke here). It's a simple principle really - as plants grow, roots expand, lengthen, penetrate deeper and eventually dislodge the rocks they grow into. :sleep:
I seriously doubt this tree is going to hold a fall and using it as a hold to make progress on the climb will also very likely result in disaster. A fall from this height past the first bolt will definitely be a crater situation - not to mention if someone pulls off the flake and hits their partner. The topo shows the route going directly to the tree.
The park does not want us using trees as pro or anchors. The route is almost 37 years old.
The old 2nd bolt was also a time bomb/accident waiting to happen (I'll cross-post on the rebolting thread). It was a 2 1/4 inch long wedge bolt that was bent by too much hammering into an underdrilled hole and the cone never engaged the clip. The only thing holding it in was the two little bumps on the sides of the clip. It was pointed down (no shear strength) and pulled out with disturbing ease.
The old bolt
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d_zAbeJDQdN36FJ3LB2iDcwutgkhxkVCJvuUPqUrNQ6fCkD0lQKIZ55Ym4LRVLYRhi_t_JJPfiiM-HHIQU2e7aKYuesHbEzr3JEMvwusdw2QsUP3j0_xVdDS50A4ICgEZX_H7MIL-dbBSgC2JftTTU=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
You can see how bent it is and the lack of any clean metal on the cone - no engagement of the clip.
The replacement bolt
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cNX7SaTq2kAd8F8UPfMHRDGk0xofebobgmjtLhmA3O8A4EO8K15wTTbR8swa9ia-nhjNauXIn74hPhAhKQ2_ebCGiqtJSLq8Vv42rvTYSpg3s-3Y8lyQ5IzE7AFw_Vmcy77zLuLPmOb3KxHYRAnAOy=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Wednesday I replaced the lead bolts on April Fools Route (on Papa Bear) and then just had time to try it on TR before sunset.
It's a highball boulder problem with a tough/thin/tricky upper section past the 2nd bolt.
Nice rock, cool moves but super runout/bold (old Higgins route - April 1976).
Also jazzed about getting that rebolted since the first, critical bolt was a 1/4 inch split shaft (2 inches long) on a Leeper.
The bolts were well placed and both produced a nice "pop" when I cranked down the puller tool.
Here are the old bolts (top bolt on the left, bottom bolt on the right)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dfzqdmQo99hiVsydp3uQBnEAhtyItZy6YF_V4e0FUzpIzRc8QQdU8kqvdYDOpF9ucv1L-Llj8wMBKrSLr_iRVmNqtgORHbUULBmYQ82UkhUygUlCaAvdTHL9ShbjbmDoXM_xo3qrv90ice29UgGLqf=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
and the beautiful replacements
bolt 1 - 30 feet up
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ccs9ArJu6W0K2zr0n9vbLRDzz80pWSeybd05Bkop1wQ1PfF-xYmUxKudJIJeXFF62E-mlJ1IV8k5rLd9EEOg-SSXy860KeXeeLz1_fDxY9CbVM3tDjDkPea_N9v1DP_9jbUPdcvymetSOLyXEoKWrm=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
bolt 2 - 15 feet above bolt 1
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3emKLA2nxvn9aawVNL1TrNR2qjniKbFbrHAO6_dmHuI7AIQYkQC52Ev8vUNW35lRDtlGtUyQnm3pWdNC5_FHBJGe--Nrh7Nmm0F3E0PhqK0U5mFsELDT_Fu2Vf29AAwunYn0Go7R_S5OcnlMoJk-ll6=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
The bolts are no longer hard to see (as described in the guidebook)
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Nice!!
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Yesterday we had a super enjoyable day finishing a route with clink that he placed the first bolt on in December of 2016. Short But Well Hung 5.8*
We hiked out to get started and found the crag (Chalkpaw Ridge) fairly quickly. The temps were perfect.
We got set up and I went up to see what I could do.
After hooking a few not so great holds and having the hooks pop off repeatedly (after I pulled up too high), I realized I was not going to be able to get high enough for the next bolt. I decided to just go for it. I got up nice and high and was totally strung out but I managed to get stable in a stem and get the hooks on some "good enough" spots to allow me to hang/stance. I was too sucked in to the rock to be able to grip the drill in the normal way, so I rolled it with my fingers and just kept tapping at it steadily. Poor clink was down there ready to run to keep me off the ground.
We had joked on the way out about starting a thread "The brightest thing about Cook is his clothes"
I got the bolt in and lowered off.
clink went up but felt like the next stance was too close to the top to warrant another bolt and wanted to keep my "flavor".
He moved up to that last good stance (feet at the bolt), cleaned off a few more holds and then downclimbed.
He said after what I had already done I'd have no trouble with the finish.
In other words...he set me up in his usual fashion. Thanks dude :yesnod: :thumbup: :ihih: :devildevil:
clink places the first bolt many moons ago (and he tells me I have a reach!)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eXWOQKXFN_0IB9BY40XinJrFaDV0Y61n2SN1oWeonCz9mv_l_J-ljhk_5qxZSFe4DvHurr39hFhRiixezmrWg7TlMRo0EozJyFiu_VPkz4BTfyNeOycTIxUtPpePHlNoaltgfcv9u7lIAYicit3_w_=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
At the hang/stance for bolt 2 (from a couple different angles)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f7GhnIxf2pOngJPcZlMJBkh3bE3Kc68okHncLBNBzsIroIYsJ1EyueIEPIYlk26084RaLcDjER3BhWnDhV61l_KYMBEdvG2_vcqfXf_Sy9KXRfjBL7tbuUyD0WTKLEdzkMAFBjZvDAQC6mCIk9mhtm=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dGIP5h8ctedgvDH5DKK78DFvoL21sZJo04Bo2ko5_BnZlN_5TXp2AF1gOhXL66T3V9ciZFrSOBqhgm48UacrnBCMuEyj38KtLSzlFRQco4jWI_OktvgsHwdrtELGv2On5UC23ujakp8MDd9NG80kC2=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
clink's view
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d7hnN4dr8v7o_lVWBDC59ACUSuB6Hb-5QgHLMAJrPrS0RAPuQQ-O_RmGtTohqGi66lAJt3pucS2jI0PeJk4JrKowvEQ_Ir8KfXNGtM0KsogLr6e7Fa4WwScSFvNELbTnyer7LImK8J8U9pZSGdKir4=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
clink goes up to explore
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e5XSB7a0cciK0lFFJiHadY60JMMA7Kgo-O1RalMTQixcUd5VueKOuRLpulb4mZx9j4b4kHdRMDVKd-HHRiy4jY82dffKOsKv5QzUYZ457jHpTwGcCzaJhDO8Tz5hKmDa-q2Uz_aqTPCzG6UjWkoNHY=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
moving past bolt 2 on the redpoint
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3egF-sAHb4Y4x8UBIfoHt6Lgkl5c0C9yUWUu7DhLuVHz6NbJeXL_MUZGj3U5upfgZfl_w08DUblBAiZnx-Ba7f-pksNZl02jjFPwq5eMOhinc8ksAkIswr5aE34ja721r2mkOyYI6wvLALL4AKo-p-M=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
clink follows
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c80hXxIxvc4MYaEMJjmv61EryumArcrkt9IQac2sljlC0ShIbqJFvJKq2vHyqcGwfMAIcKVfa5cmnditdIuwrUwu7IecpgEW0c1M8Ba-JRYtfXP4t4eG3u_Okt1P0Pcl7jYFpU9DW_68nqN8CJFU2O=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
End of another great day with the clinker and Kat :biggrin: :arf:
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Sorry Gavin. But at least now we know. WAY down the list of things to do.
MUD, we were pretty inured to totally, totally shit rock back in the day. I’d really forgotten how bad the first two pitches were. Can rock get any worse at Pinnacles??
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Looks a bit short?
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Looks a bit short?
Thus the name.
It's good climbing if you're out there doing other stuff.
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Sorry Gavin. But at least now we know. WAY down the list of things to do.
MUD, we were pretty inured to totally, totally shit rock back in the day. I’d really forgotten how bad the first two pitches were. Can rock get any worse at Pinnacles??
Could you be any more cryptic?
What did you do - climb Herchel Berchel?
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You’re good dude; you know your Pinnacles climbing. But no, we did Where the Birds Hang. The thought was that we’d finish the upper part of its chute. And I’d remembered Dennis and I looking up and wondering why they didn’t go higher ( and it looks good higher) but really forgotten how TERRIBLE the first two pitches were.
I’m posting from a phone, which is part of the reason for cryptic.
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Gavin read the brand names from the bolts in the chute. Started with a “d” but I don’t remember the full name. Never heard of them before. And really, if one were going to push higher in the chute, those lower bolts ( in the chute) would have to be replaced too. Too much.
The bolt that Dennis and I added to the second pitch top anchor looked as if it had just been replaced though ( it hadn’t, but it looked that new and clean). And we pulled the other one there and replaced it with ASCA 1/2 inch stainless. And equipped it with chains.
Probably a waste of metal though - the two carabiners that MUD and I rapped from 15 years ago were sitting there below the bolts on the ledge. With some fallen apart tat. They were my gear with my tape. No one has been there since he and I did it and noone will likely ever go there again.
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Looks a bit short?
Or that brush is really tall.
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Or the brush is above the photographer and looks like it is high.
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Where the bird hang, oh my....I remember going up that route with you Brad.
Please peel off the loose stuff.
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Brad - the old bolts had "Dorman" printed on them. Mostly 1/4" but a couple of 3/8" too.
F4 - I don't think it would be possible to remove all the loose stuff from the first two pitches; there is too much of it. Especially the first pitch had an amazing amount of bowling ball sized loose rock... I removed some but there are many more set to topple.
It's a shame because the water streak is very nice and looks like it could be pushed higher.
Oh well, on to other adventures.
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Thanks for shedding the light Brad.
I just read the description and looked at the topo.
We may have seen a bolt or two on that (sparkling in the sun) when we did Bongloadash.
The lack of pro and long traverses look terrifying - especially with all the loose rock.
Biners caught by a ledge and still perched there after the tat rotted away - wow.
Gavin nailed it with "It's a shame"
How many routes at Pinnacles could be renamed that?
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Wednesday I replaced the lead bolts on April Fools Route (on Papa Bear) and then just had time to try it on TR before sunset.
The bolts are no longer hard to see (as described in the guidebook)
I forgot to mention that I was whimpering like a little baby while leading the Regular Route to get to the summit - so embarrassing.
In addition to being easy to see, those two bolts are among the highest quality replacements I have ever done - perfectly flush, torqued and both in excellent rock. The Fixe PLX hangers the ASCA sent are beefy too.
Sometimes the original bolts aren't in the greatest rock but these were both stellar.
Now I just need to man up and lead it.
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Looks a bit short?
Just for the record it is 37 feet (6 of my pulls which may actually be 6' 2" each) on a direct line from the anchor to the ground.
The climbing is a bit longer though, since the moves lead you left, then back right, then left again at the exit.
The bolt spacing will get your attention. :devildevil:
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Noal and I got a new route rolling yesterday. It started out pretty sweet (on gear) and then went south a bit.
The rock quality dropped off significantly and the climbing was harder than it looked from below.
I don't think either of us was particularly shocked but maybe a bit disappointed.
Pinnacles...where dreams go to die :lol:
We live in the hope (or the delusion) that the quality will come back once we get past this next section.
Here is Noal in Dorf's house of pain - getting the second bolt drilled.
Which position looks more painful?
This one?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ebXEIsYMb3O1Z2UrNS76SIXswUmLqr6ELU5UsMp1TP7FDWr04qQw4RVUcIb5yWIHs5M1-WVDw6DTnv9r4tyoRe18IhrTu0BhtmwtelwkwL34HiuLCHZ6xCwnMnxR_f6fCCipo-gVieinmYbGJnmJxL=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
Or this one?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d6BpmFDwntXvEoHCAk_4mU1k4L8SFLC2DFIyk-xoj18XUx61ONlozFglxuA12Os2s6n3MQjBrc77lD9SHFULrA_03vo6WFStBYXKEOHcsnI-O45H1ot1dsFBObW5aOwOAb6B8Rk-lR72kTj8Kekgan=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Noal's bolt allowed me to get out and get myself in a pickle to drill bolt 3.
The next part should prove to be quite interesting.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dIZy9dDws50QN35M9Avvc8Bv7bfYEr1ad792ifmvcm5c0TIgF7Oy9Xk6J-LmK9kgrePT1_9KakevH0UGINd02S9p4LdX-1khE6qaVknfM_1Ubq6jTjyNflhovUbvTXh98UxOLnIhc9tJjpNof0uxz_=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Dorf's house of pain
The inside of the chimney was super featured and sharp. After drilling for awhile my knees were killing me. I had JC send up one of my approach shoes to put on knee like DORF.
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Gavin 😢 to crush the dream!!
1st Brad crushed the Pigeon crack dream and now where the birds should hang.
Yeah it was pretty damn scary with Brad all of that loose rock.
Was at the E-side today crushing routes, except POD, which crushed my fingers!
I even ran into our beloved site Admin Mudworm crushing some hard routes.
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The inside of the chimney was super featured and sharp. After drilling for awhile my knees were killing me. I had JC send up one of my approach shoes to put on knee like DORF.
The DORF technique was an epic fail but the concept and character are still a hoot.
Knee pads will be reinstated as standard equipment for all FA's in my pack.
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The quest yesterday took us into the High Peaks where I was originally thinking about getting Swept Away taken care of.
My curiosity got the better of me and we veered off toward Squareblock to check out some new routes.
We climbed three routes.
Short Ribs - High Point 5.6
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fQM1DVLfHXY2r_VWStVDps2Rr3nlmoSvpCgf_qvyrptL8x5jbcEQyvUwZ2a4wzb7BIztFwsl7CyU0I01FNmqG2anqkht1TfGrVbnWuoX8gYHUPx1HJLusmwanqaQ3XvE-hkFGVYNMLDNC4TVK8mzbg=w462-h615-no?authuser=0)
You can get in some skiing if you're not careful on the descent
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cf3TEWqvbwUtVLU3XLJaf_9dgagbFi7chqRU1Az2Xt3KPfM8dn0Hry4FI6__7dS6bkjc4lK6WjQOPDONkQ3BQ2OxkPm_TIdzjYUky-VRgkF3CReuYJDSb82BWlWiA5dvF7ZL7XGbgLDPyi4NVInmXB=w462-h615-no?authuser=0)
Placid Nirvana - Class Four
I went up and looked at this when we were out climbing and rebolting Peace of Heaven
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dnmRX6xFpXE7xorwg2qHRN_28y4UgpHYWJZIExU2rXi_eCugioBClw87urUzN3VJSTBrxqZkNnD4JZ8vqMwJhRWmp7e-Rfp8lces9eDBjGlh3Ksg41XBRtsPPSmRyr6rOVzgLVV4R8oINztLJst-QI=w462-h615-no?authuser=0)
Betsy 5.7
Curious to know how BAP got over the "boulder problem" at the end of this route.
The key knob was 6 inches above Kat's reach.
Dyno?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3caFeSpc88JRT7u207lnN_qDu1dcWDtHPXwC1gvNTsc0213voFv4PwQfnsIzux5vg50mKAokpRCvqdoopgfp2uLi0YYjJSI-6INlv8EUtVZSC_7JtbbcHcuM63HVCdwK0Hh2TlWrvjfxi24blPFhuDe=w820-h615-no?authuser=0)
Thanks for the day Kat! (and Brad for the metal bits)
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Sorry about the rappel off of Betsy (was that manzanita aggressive with your rear end too?).
You know how it is, trying to find the best rock and equalize everything. And I thought it would miss the bush/tree. I don't think I was correct.
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Sorry about the rappel off of Betsy (was that manzanita aggressive with your rear end too?).
You know how it is, trying to find the best rock and equalize everything. And I thought it would miss the bush/tree. I don't think I was correct.
No apology necessary.
I could tell you worked hard to get those nice surfaces.
The tree is fine and the rope pull is smooth.
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aggressive with your rear end too?).
I'm gonna stay away from Betsy.
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Curious to know how BAP got over the "boulder problem" at the end of this route.
The key knob was 6 inches above Kat's reach.
Dyno?
I don't dyno. I don't remember how I did it. Maybe just said the F word to Brad, then made the move. ;)
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...maybe just said the F word to Brad, then made the move. ;)
Not that this is a pattern or anything.
She absolutely couldn't reach the hold. So she alternated pulling off lesser quality knobs, swearing at me, and doing moves that looked harder than they should have been (love you Jenn, say hi to Pete for me...).
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Love you too, Brad. The "pattern" has been working.
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(love you Jenn, say hi to Pete for me...).
Love you too, Brad. The "pattern" has been working.
:puke: :puke:
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I'm gonna stay away from Betsy.
Best to keep her in your rear view mirror.
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JC
Be nice.
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Jen is my spirit guide for the proper use and inflection of the F word while climbing with Brad. Lots of good laughter on those days. :)
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Jen is my spirit guide for the proper use and inflection of the F word while climbing with Brad. Lots of good laughter on those days. :)
It sometimes reaches epic proportions.
She came within a hair of onsighting a very sustained 5.10c this summer. At the last little bit of 5.10 climbing she said: "I'm scared, I'm going to grab the draw."
I yelled: "NO, NO, you're almost there, don't do it!"
Her: "Fuck you Brad, I'm scared."
Me, after she grabs it: "Oh NO, you had it."
Her: "Fuck you Brad, I was scared."
Her, 10 minutes later, as she lowers down the route: "Fuck you Brad, why did you let me grab that draw?"
I'm pretty sure I wouldn't enjoy a day with BAP if I didn't hear "Fuck you Brad" at least once.
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JC
Be nice.
Seriously? Have you met me?! :devildevil:
Actually - that was being nice :devildevil: :devildevil:
Awwwww...I LOVE YOU ALL! :puke:
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:puke:
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:ciappa:
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Weekend agenda?
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Weekend agenda?
Avoid people, places and things...
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I like BAP more and more
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With you on avoiding people.
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Good day molesting mud and crud with Noal and JC
Odd, Noal had a Trump 2024 hat. He said it would deflect the crud.
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Good day molesting mud and crud with Noal and JC
Odd, Noal had a Trump 2024 hat. He said it would deflect the crud.
Not sure if we were the molesters or the molestees.
Nice job out there guys.
I'll post a pic or two tomorrow.
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Fake news.
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Brad,
"Didn't you and Gavin do some 5.10 route on the Balconies? By Electric Blue?"
"I have no idea what you are talking about."
...722.5 Full Circle 5.10d **
Either you were gaslighting me, or you're list of accomplishments is extensive enough that you would actually forget establishing a two star, bolted 5.10 route on such a pretty precipice.
Or both.
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Would I ever gaslight anyone?
Now, now. We thought we saw you from the high peaks. Might have been someone else?
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Or maybe it’s a typo?
Either way, always nice to see your mug 😉
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And by the way, I still maintain that it’s a one star route. But Gavin disagrees and two very experienced Pinnacles climbers who have each done it more than once have called it three stars. I’ve bowed to more credible sources.
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By my math it sounds like consensus on Full Circle is 3 stars. :idea:
Sounds like Zay was on Full Circle and Brad was in the High Peaks. What's your star assessment Zay?
You guys should get giant watches and subscribe to Strava so we can track you :lol:
F4 said he saw someone on top of Smokestack but we didn't hear the BPS so it must have been someone else.
All this detective work is exhausting!
Noal working on bolt 5.
I placed a long 5 piece bolt (bolt 4) - then Noal went up and managed to stand in a void left where everything peeled off :yikes:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eq8Ml2j78Njouowyj2mSkTpDeSa6xnfLIy_rn_BBv7lVXS9YrfvRH1ZXuua2pHwkL5Zjp4sJdK-rjH0pI-zhEZWPoYi5DNTIigu6qjNOHyyBJR9Oug1uUTEdPlnNyLTAspiYYi7biijaZV3ciCLqfB=w462-h615-no?authuser=0)
F4 went up next and got a bolt in for a hairy transition over to the main mass. I finished the day by tensioning sideways to get in a long triplex bolt that will get us to an airy stance and "should" set us up for the finish (we live in hope!).
We didn't make a lot of upward progress (due to rock quality issues) but we did make significant progress and regained some hope at the end of the day. We remain steadfast. Too bad the rock doesn't understand the literal meaning of that word.
We are already 7 bolts in to a climb that looks easy from the ground.
Oh what a tangled web Pinnacles weaves...
Noal and F4 should have a few more pics.
My legs are still tired this morning after bracing in that last locked out/straight-legged tension stance. I never moved my feet.
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We did Bullseye/Derringer to Old Original, to Lava Falls (spectacular day!!!)
Full Circle is on the forecast, 5.10d might just be within my capabilities to lead...
Didn't see anyone else on Machete Yesterday... but man, I've never seen so many climbers on the west side. Chocktone Dome and Flumes were quite the social fairs. Oh yeah, I almost never climb on Saturdays hehehehe
Always good to banter with you guys :)
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JC,
Where is that beautiful rock you just posted? That's a cool looking line.
Forgive me if you already posted about it upthread, I can't keep up with such industrious folk.
Looking forward to giving it a second ;)
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JC,
Where is that beautiful rock you just posted? That's a cool looking line.
Forgive me if you already posted about it upthread, I can't keep up with such industrious folk.
Looking forward to giving it a second ;)
Sorry dude - We are still working on it. The rock quality has forced us to start traversing to the right.
Except for the starting section (about 30 feet of gear protected climbing), the climbing looks much better than it is.
I am hoping we can finish it in one more outing but the rock quality has deteriorated so much that it has become quite the challenge.
If I can get over to the next stance without peeling off (literally), it should start up again and hopefully finish with a few more bolts.
All but one of the drilling positions so far (7 bolts) have been brutal.
I posted a couple shots of Noal upthread a couple weeks ago when we started it.
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=2443.msg48649#msg48649
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Steadfast is a great word.
J.C., that looked like 150 feet of climbing on that side to the summit?
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Fantastic day for us today. Vicki drove to the parking lot with us. Then both daughters, me and all three Dawson’s laughed a lot, climbed some, and got a hell of a lot of research done.
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Only 4 other parties at the east side today???
Devoid of climbers.
Quite warm, until we lost the sun.
Oddly, there was someone on lard butt.
Thanks again Mud Worm for the POD burn.
It never gets old.
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What you guys climb?
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She swallows crack
Wet kiss 2x
Organ grinder 2x, james kept doing the 10c eliminate ;) :skep:
Subterranean tango, upper
POD
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hey, someone's birthday (not mine) is in, like, a day and a half. day after the conjunction...
what's really a mind bender is, how the hell do I even know?
you know who you are 0_0
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hey, someone's birthday (not mine) is in, like, a day and a half. day after the conjunction...
what's really a mind bender is, how the hell do I even know?
The real mind bender is how old this someone will be tomorrow. ;) ;D >:D
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lol
"The well protected nature of this route should be understood, and forgiven, as the age of the first ascentionist is quite-old."
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The real mind bender is how old this someone will be tomorrow. ;) ;D
It is shocking. He should make sure to eat his prunes and review his medicare elections.
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My friends and I were surprised how not-crowded the popular climbing areas were on Sunday. Maybe people take "stay-at-home" more literally than we do.
We are careful though. We don't carpool, and we wear masks. I personally could go either way on both aspects, but I respect that my friends want to be more careful when they have family to go back to.
My first time on Pickpocket (TR). It's hard. Need to stretch my wing span, toughen up finger tips, and go back. Good day.
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My first time on Pickpocket (TR). It's hard. Need to stretch my wing span, toughen up finger tips, and go back. Good day.
Nice - I have always liked Pickpocket. It is definitely thin, requires some reachy moves, and some precise footwork.
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And based on more than one suggestion, it’s bumped up to 5.11b in the new East Side text.
Don’t tell MISTER MUD this though. He’ll insist on 5.9+.
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Full Circle is on the forecast, 5.10d might just be within my capabilities to lead...
Full Circle is a lot of fun. Even if you only do the first pitch (5.10a), you will enjoy it. It feels pretty sustained, but is well protected.
The 5.10d is in the second pitch - it gets hard quickly after moving up from the first pitch anchor, and then the sequences of thin moves through the crux are obvious. After that the second pitch eases up a bit but still stays pretty sustained at lower 5.10. The third pitch is pretty solid at 5.10a as well.
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Ha! Yes Pick pocket for Carl was 11a, since he is so tall and has a huge wingspan. 11b is about right.
I recall a long reach and then matching and pulling up.
Carl was so excited he had found the line, like he stole it!!
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We had some serious fun this week on the crud, culminating with some great new routes yesterday - to celebrate the anniversary of our first climb at Pinnacles (and my first lead ever). Starting into our 10th year now.
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^^^
Some people pay attention to their wedding anniversary date. These two?
They do it right ;)
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It is not 11b
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It is not 11b
Oh thank GOD. The world is back to normal.
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It is too. That reach...
Prove it
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Kat and I climbed Mean Max 5.4 on Monday.
Nice spot and summit has some cool views. You can see all kinds of stuff including Quasimodo and The Keep.
If anyone is headed out to climb Mean Max - take some tat or chains.
The bolts are pretty close so a pair of 5's or 7's should work fine.
Here's the current setup (my redundant tie of a 4 foot sling).
I forgot to ask Brad but I imagine he would reimburse anybody willing to set it up (sorry dude - I didn't have any hardware with me).
EDIT/UPDATE - on 1-3-21 Brad added chains to this anchor.
The 4 inch cam in a hole is a little wonky but okay (goes between the bolts).
I couldn't get a 2 inch cam in the other hole - maybe try a #1 camalot or take some tricams (I didn't have mine with me).
Mean Max anchor
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3frgnoVhfchMeMHka81M1au2fzHZT0v7dvEkQIpqRV6upD0wQz2ryEKcpY3lF9zHnKNe4-PwhwxgT9yzZ3Qm0u9PC28Bb9rZ41ra9qpF9qDli4H_726Ks5j-3JlCBE7d-aA2wgNKpLW2T-R7EshJDzT=w832-h624-no?authuser=0)
JC leads Mean Max
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dG3ZJZ5Jn6Kd213iwpsl6YgjWEr-EMmR47J8wtnFW3bZCUQGCA_ijzjQS9UQ5wxe8ojk98IFE3bBvenqWDDe-zyqzZtNS1tt3mMYddu0n45wNsGjOWHYoWmj1T5s9DZnR1b2i-Q_pfHhAW_lLaDeUW=w469-h624-no?authuser=0)
On Tuesday we went out to Plateau Pinnacle 5.6 and then Pocket Protector (5.6**)
Plateau is another cool spot and has a great view of Costanoan from the summit. We saw a party on it and called howdy over to them.
Plateau Pinnacle
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f8gqTGp4EWzwrcY-fvhr8wCsv-Af45IudBvwdA6Yi2vQZYjEeaqVdcrCito7rWsO5G0waQY3F0iPSDQkUshM2L0kMQSmahe30u8ENSPp91FtRSqq4-tLcylJtGjkeKPSrHgiho5_kjWU4pQh284cKj=w469-h624-no?authuser=0)
Kat follows Plateau Pinnacle
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cHc4Byd5VMuv9CqKaOnNIcd55frdghbCPyBWDxEyy9UcRriRbbgI3AlAOxgUdgfkWVJVOxRD5MrcKERdgqMEvqFr23xO2SIUfOzS3uvj9hlzHhRsYQnp_pV26XFGNYGFdVcEI1j5MN6zZoiEtL1fA-=w832-h624-no?authuser=0)
and I got this choice shot of Kat with Rabbit Rock in the background - lookin good Tuff Chik :ihih:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dtZBafb4ASYJ7lbrCxXyiyHwf8abOz1rghQ9_vzwlE79Bp-NokvRITMh0VS7vjsTHr5IAABv4yGUgQ46VlrDrQr5obDmlxUOmEwc0S7tt_bli47Dcf1bzcYi1fNgNCTLd6f5oy2Gy-PYztH10gnwYK=w832-h624-no?authuser=0)
We ended the day at Squareblock doing a super fun and long route (95 feet) - Pocket Protector 5.6**
This is the best rock I've been on since Noal and I worked on Eye Candy Crag. Really fun!
Me leading Pocket Protector
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d84mykh6Y7rVFDhNwPUEvyzwGV6XtYel-gVEfY1GW_GYxxNi-ZkzhNaR8eDbfh-cYq7b3wMUUSOA2BydHIsTmm63kUdOCvBDGNSVSp4jkdmYYDrP45A9_d5o1Oy-rtLFKnHWGNOGmijxtDI8UGSYZi=w469-h624-no?authuser=0)
Kat following Pocket Protector
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d8FNZrZ13c4PdmSIjuyq1KQ5YpypEE19bKLhgrsyz_DkB3wfrK9UXbBpu6VmVw5kPe3j_ryOGWAyrcL0wWrNybQakx3FvbT0IQl3H9_CBwxgPx0Hp4T7G0_roF5AcKIP2Gq_TgJX7Q7r_USuaWR5yW=w832-h624-no?authuser=0)
Kat does her Vanna White pose at the base of Pocket Protector
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d6_aYUVEi9t4S3DduzvateOfDonb5XN9JJPDoX5KlGA91HTb8X21PwTsQC4c450RTLi6z3Tm-jMa3plh5Dr_1QtS9oRNRPInAf0mB0AtUltujKtf_g5T6WRMg7oVZ-KsiG4qzOsCxsmxCJ6AhJ1IVg=w469-h624-no?authuser=0)
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Climbed with Noal the voyeur rooted today.
OCD overdrive
Cutting the rug
Rug burn
Bravo to whom all established the routes.
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
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We also did the top half of Up the Buttress and Shades of Jade. NIce job leading Up the Buttress!
Thought it might rain in the afternoon but it was mostly Sunny all day.
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Up the bitterness and shades of jade were amazing.
That Mr Mud, found his golden acorns.
Best pitch was the 2nd of OCD overdrive. What a sweet chimney!
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^^^
Nice job dudes.
Sounds like a fun time.
Glad you got out before the rain.
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We also did the top half of Up the Buttress and Shades of Jade. NIce job leading Up the Buttress!
Thought it might rain in the afternoon but it was mostly Sunny all day.
Why just the top half? Was the bottom wet? Cold (doesn't seem like cold deters Noal)?
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Why just the top half? Was the bottom wet? Cold (doesn't seem like cold deters Noal)?
Seems like a wet bottom would help when you're going up the buttress. :yikes: :lol:
The top sounds like the best part and keeps you out of the crack.
Crack kills.
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Not enough time to do the complete route today.
Plus my shoulder was bugging me from Rug Burn, so I was not too keen on more hard pulling.
Settled for the upper part today.
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We also did not bring no big ole cams. Was a quickdraws and rope day.
Kind of a nice option doing just the arete/buttress. Like eating just the top of a cupcake.
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We also did not bring no big ole cams. Was a quickdraws and rope day.
Kind of a nice option doing just the arete/buttress. Like eating just the top of a cupcake.
The ONLY reason cake exists is to hold the frosting. So yeah, I get that one.
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Kat and I had a great day last Wednesday celebrating our 9th anniversary of climbing.
I did my first lead on The Flatiron on December 23rd, 2011.
We went out for a fun day of climbing some new routes (sorry no details since these routes aren't "public" yet).
Should we revive Atomizer's Take Your Secret and Shove It thread?
Needless to say - it was a nice spot with some really fun climbing. All the climbs we did had a plethora of pockets.
It got me thinking of names for climbs with holes and pockets.
The climbing pics we got were pretty lame but I'll share a couple anyway.
Exploring the approach (turned out we missed the "correct" trail but found it on the way out)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f95kVhTt30f5jamV8fTvr0qrcD_Oh3NyFuY2YshqGw7ZaJPpZX-_r65gMHqaqAo7BoLJHzcFECnNU771pFgiWQVaHPQKwzsUDPD4VdeAw3DtEsXRaCBFrxc2RTmIV6VmS8v8M-1lKsYl4W_4VYDg4C=w832-h624-no?authuser=0)
Leading the first climb - "easy" slot to squeeze chimney finish
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eOy7H48zMysV1a3_gPLKC6vk4fa5k_IbmXowEognsv7NJiFp-ovN9Wy-6TkK_WnjbmIGsWkY-NjVMW-l26PIbUv5H4l56mopZCp_XnpBA6tGaRY20gqT8B_P3D5nOcOq2LaC1wYRe49g8z_-Z43lcn=w469-h624-no?authuser=0)
At the anchor for the 2nd climb - starts up a nice chute - then onto a pocketed face, finish on an "easy" slab.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fMT3pO9VqNIcOZRxsuCrZefn36Kq0ndlMI4P5WpryXbQtkOlBo_0Vi2tRCLMaudL1GylCFaHbjoiHpGMaSuw2he_DzNfc7XwUcgsfOtwBw_DvG_9dytUlhBUXwqnm4MPZqDhod1Aq0IlZC85iyiXix=w469-h624-no?authuser=0)
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I've been watching the rain gauge today to track rainfall amounts this week - in hopes of maybe a day trip in a few days.
0.2 inches fell between the overnight hours and this morning.
I just looked again and in one hour (between 1:30 and 2:30pm) - the reading jumped by 0.26! :yikes:
Did someone pour a bucket of water on the gauge or was there a deluge?
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Tomorrow looks nice
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I just looked again and in one hour (between 1:30 and 2:30pm) - the reading jumped by 0.26! :yikes:
Did someone pour a bucket of water on the gauge or was there a deluge?
There was a downpour - I was surprised to see so much rain coming down just now... I thought it was done after this morning. But we can use as much rain as we can get!
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Now it's up to almost half an inch this afternoon.
Also helpful to wash drill dust and miscellaneous dirt off of newer routes.
.
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Now it's up to almost half an inch this afternoon.
Also helpful to wash drill dust and miscellaneous dirt off of newer routes.
That's what I said bunny bread. :lol:
Also helps wash more dirt back onto them (down the water chutes) and feeds the moss and lichen. :devildevil: :crying:
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Beautiful day at the high peaks with Squiddo
Longs folly
St Valentines massacre
Burgundy rappel route
Piglet
2x routes Abuela conchita and the easy one left of it
1x 2 bolt Clink Route near smokestack
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^^^
I have a hard time imagining the rock could have been dry already after the downpour the afternoon before.
Seems like most of those High Peaks routes have lichen that still would have been greasy.
I guess I am just a wuss (no need for the peanut gallery to confirm this). :ciappa: :arf:
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Up hit was down right tropical.
You missed out
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Flip Flop weather?
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Yes, Noal The weather was so nice, I wore my flip flops approaching the high peaks.
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You missed out
Doesn't feel like it. I got some really important stuff done around here. :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
Flip Flop weather?
I don't like flip-flopping due to weather but it happens sometimes :out: :arf:
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Seriously, it was amazing with the warm sun and the snow capped mountains in the background.
Pictures just could not do justice.
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Tee shirt weather today. Anything that gets sun exposure is now dry.
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Tee shirt weather today. Anything that gets sun exposure is now dry.
Sent you a pm
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Nice - I have always liked Pickpocket. It is definitely thin, requires some reachy moves, and some precise footwork.
Spot on! I officially like Pickpocket too now. :) 5.9+ maybe? ;D
Perfect day climbing in the Pinnacles today, but it looked like everyone came out to hike here. Thankfully, we were not crowded at our climbs.
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An amazing day on Stromland. suffered from Pet Rock Syndrome, but before I was Snob Jobbed and lost in a sea of Shades of Jade
We did Jeepers on TR. I liked the 11b rating.
Leading the route....yikes!!!
Wrapped up the day with some OCD Overdrive
Thanks Noal for a fun day.
Stromland keeps delivering!
:thumbup: :thumbup:
Edited to add shards of Jade
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. Nice lead on the P.R.S!
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PRS....
Wow a slab climb in the high peaks, who’d have thunk it possible...
The route rock will cleanup, but all future parties will be petting the rock.
Sub Jub needs chains or mushy hooks
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Excellent job on Pet Rock Syndrome, Factor! I couldn’t see the moves on it when I tried it and I hung (in front of Noal and Mud no less). I still haven’t made it back to get it clean.
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The route has not cleaned up much.....in dry
In dryer conditions it will be even better.
Funny, I was pumped way more on Snub Jub, which is 10a......
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It’s steeper. I got that onsight the same day. Both are nice routes.
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Too wet to get much of anything done on Thursday but we did have a nice hike and checked some stuff out.
We talked to a lot of visitors and I free soloed Kermit just to get some movement in since it was full sun there. Windy and cool.
Friday we did a day of service and replaced the summit anchor on Tuff Dome.
I also looked at and took pictures of all the bolts on Aliens Ate My Buick and Adagio.
Mostly split shafts and a bunch of SMC death hangers - definitely needs some love.
Got some remote, obscure climbing in yesterday.
Old Tuff Dome summit anchor (under-drilled split shafts with floppy SMC stainless hangers and rusty smashlinks)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cvcZgXlCqoIT2iXm34dIfxSE5Dpz6yFPluWF-s1E60npGQHHw9kqneFJErWx8EnF67vj7cRUA3kkasqw13PQOmgHBKXEN-YAtmo5zMBWpc4nXEMqHu6sKsDUc85oAXaMNS6dPkv5vFYsQKdaEYEQGj=w832-h624-no?authuser=0)
Replacement anchor from above
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fWlaEfETAJsX49Q1oRpxxwWzHTD5NDs_02qgAPbOgHU7mnpkfj_y5iPb9byw9OJ4aC3kuu0EIiTqymFah-uKEE1zqZew71vIfFgpBPyEF3OU5uYMvuUbMsmaeXjQE_Xdn8Xn9iakhzx_JsCBOCj1qt=w833-h624-no?authuser=0)
Getting in a new summit mini alpine style
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c5rTf24NLOrhnS2ZUnWCdkECEQtMTYY5wv4YKFzIsg7Cteo9cGGVX2eCGS4kfR6xOolYYnTlajKsymXOcLmN6GDpN7sjsug0LJr2ar3chFO87ws-XSO6HkA0fFGziIEuIv1ZyI18bLAv4UPzCUs09U=w832-h624-no?authuser=0)
Getting in a little gear protected climbing - a little stemming before stuffing myself into the chimney
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cCvZF1OFKvIpEvqgICQXUDCA9R4FvmOkiBL0iKio96dS6L_Mk0U1x3dR2Dj_zsHT0tSKduvirh-gW62nyYIzI9Qm9Wopqk_llZeIL5qBUu_QVdfiXmKM240WRjkahDjF7pFsYLPXEkYB1qxhmFVjK8=w469-h624-no?authuser=0)
This was my favorite bolt on Tuff Dome. The hanger is okay (stainless SMC) but geez :yikes:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cC6ztb7gy4m2UgPTWL2fr4YVyOqffzRwU9YuQ_5CjBMJ-exgLhCBkbw0KGLaO6GgnlR5Wj5Ak2tTkLXCrjVF3XQnMmQsDU-unoTzRRJ2E-5rSm4iV8l1ZmoDipaDqHjKAHEmt588QjusNjyDvOAuUQ=w469-h624-no?authuser=0)
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It’s steeper. I got that onsight the same day. Both are nice routes.
Wait a minute - aren't you out pounding on crud?
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Wait a minute - aren't you out pounding on crud?
Just finished. Great reception up here.
First FA of the new year??
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And damn John the public service stuff? VERY nice.
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Just finished. Great reception up here.
Nice. I figured maybe you were texting in between taps from a cushy stance. :lol:
First FA of the new year??
I coulda been a contender!
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And damn John the public service stuff? VERY nice.
Thanks.
Views from the summit and climbing one of my favorite routes to get up there were both a nice way to start the New Year :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :arf:
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Two Santa Cruz climbers, Aaron and Brad just used that new anchor. They say “thanks!”
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Just got two perfectly equalized chains on Mean Max. I’m pooped and am heading out. So far I’ve climbed every single day this year!
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I hear you Brad, I am pooped to...Stromland is tiring
Finally relaxing in the hot tub.
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Just got two perfectly equalized chains on Mean Max. I’m pooped and am heading out. So far I’ve climbed every single day this year!
I updated/edited my previous post about Mean Max.
Heavy metal to start the New Year.
Nice.
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Pictured: Brad and BAP installing the perfectly equalized rap chains on top of Mean Max viewed from the belay anchor above Little Javelina:
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Well, hi again Chris. Nice to see you on "the" site.
I'm curious if you did try the route or if you're just taking my word for it that they're equalized?
And BTW, I will, of course, expect to see you next time I am down there (seems like I have seen you literally every time I've been to Pinns this season).
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Hi Brad - we didn't do the route yesterday - so I'm taking your word for it (we were also tired at the end of our climbing day).
But, a mellow route to the top of a new-to-me pinnacle seems right up my alley. So, Mean Max is on my to-do list.
The pinnacles forecast has been good for climbing so I've been there a lot of late and hope to get back soon. I've likewise come to expect to see you during every Pinnacles trip. It's about as regular as seeing the Condors circling in the afternoons.
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Hi Brad - we didn't do the route yesterday - so I'm taking your word for it (we were also tired at the end of our climbing day).
But, a mellow route to the top of a new-to-me pinnacle seems right up my alley. So, Mean Max is on my to-do list.
The pinnacles forecast has been good for climbing so I've been there a lot of late and hope to get back soon. I've likewise come to expect to see you during every Pinnacles trip. It's about as regular as seeing the Condors circling in the afternoons.
Did he just call me a large vulture?
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Only that you are both fixtures of Pinnacles.
Handsome creatures though ...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c3VeWWyAwGtUzjJoSCwgd5ECcVC0WwSMfNWsYdYxMtJfntvTlEBOE_ZKCdTfajtTzO36MAgG8ZT8c2uVMHoyQxHIjMcNtuJWl5a2OwdNQ09-7X88f6rgIJiGwtbnJpLuvKVIysaGeQwQ-zyaDnD-hN=w1160-h1546-no?authuser=0)
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^^^
Nice closeup of Little Stinker.
Where did she fly in to visit you?
We are wondering if she and Mr. Mischief (#92's unofficial name) will mate and fledge a youngster this year.
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A group of three buzzed me at the summit anchor on Spikes Peak, western summit. "Little Stinker" landed surprisingly close as I was belaying up my partner. (This was the day before I saw Brad and BAP from the same spot).
The other two birds (I couldn't read their tags) hung out on the unnamed (?) pinnacle west of Dragonfly Dome and "Little Sticker" went to join them after a stay of several minutes.
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Yes, the birds are always checking us out, in hope one of us is Mr Mud.
They can hope.
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Yes, the birds are always checking us out, in hope one of us is Mr Mud.
They can hope.
Not enough meat on him to attract a buzzard much less a Condor
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A group of three buzzed me at the summit anchor on Spikes Peak, western summit. "Little Stinker" landed surprisingly close as I was belaying up my partner. (This was the day before I saw Brad and BAP from the same spot).
Were you by any chance climbing on Smokestack on 12-22?
We saw a party of two go up there on our way to the Squareblock cutoff - about 9:30 in the am.
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Hi JC - It was not me on December 22nd. I like the smokestack - but I think I was last there on 11-15.
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Hi JC - It was not me on December 22nd. I like the smokestack - but I think I was last there on 11-15.
And so the mystery will go unsolved...for now... :lol:
BTW - Welcome to the forum and the Quest.
Did you check out any of the great new routes by Little Javelina?
Gavin and Brian did a fabulous job finding and bolting those lines.
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What is the Quest?
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We noticed Dances with Warthogs & Brad/BAP bellowed out their endorsement of that route from across the canyon. It is on my list for next time!
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^^^
I don't bellow, and neither does BAP. Hell, my voice barely carries.
First I'm some form of vulture and now I'm some form of barbarian? Sheesh. At this rate I see a fair amount of "penalty slack" in Chris's future.
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^^^
BAP definitely doesn't bellow but the BPS can be heard for miles and miles... :yesnod: :out: :ciappa:
P.S. Pot/kettle
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We noticed Dances with Warthogs
Dances is top notch. Where's Waldo is too if you haven't gotten to that yet.
Definitely do yourself a favor and print out all the routes up there.
Don't miss Swine Flue - the stemming up and out of the chimney is super fun.
Great place to go in warmer weather.
My only gripe was when you're in the chimney - you can't see the bolts - but you just climb and find them.
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Time for a circuit breaker.
Kat and I renewed the Quest yesterday near and at Squareblock Rock.
We started on the recently finished Half Pumpkin Dome.
Getting things started with Peter Peter 5.1R (got wood?)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dfDTPpXxq_AZUwEW8pDI_M8Wx_ov_kVVCqKFTZHnmV-w2uOaG08nRQEtRhpeZCou_8Ic8wId-SLp_ZBnGPWOACiXQI9ssOKiQKDZmpTySRXF1f68AgVIidmz6uE5z87WyNXCpL3lBlCqSV-9q7rB3V=w469-h624-no?authuser=0)
One butt shot
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dNcLmFQedyckAsk6ztkGw8l42oM3_ODPtRotkanYtx3K2y1TfLQemZClEKOFBiLNNt2yKMqnM09ZmlP_9dvGF_f7VGkl1Q0T8_vJlzLhVWH1WR964QHg3Dg2LaXUToEvtY_SKeegUvpt4QngBpEqIz=w469-h624-no?authuser=0)
and it's done
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fym8uQXbF5Tdusr2dvm5wmWDIuyji_daq60SfkDY97NJBRgB66AY1qAV881FiPDqDSue8xA8dSju2RMLZLyZp1lPOnu9DMzHMILW6JidPejbJgdTwdANBZKbHw5sXbtpL273ELUvNuilIfVr3LlHYB=w469-h624-no?authuser=0)
We headed around the backside and thoroughly enjoyed Jack O' 5.8*
Moving across the "try not to schwing" section (too bad that pillarish feature isn't threadable
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fNEfkGXBrrHFmLNbbgzG3zLnNHKLGhj7HiEfXo6OMPpCTR0farQ-A1Lh6-hy1Xqk6IW5ldvLI52OquCgpyUEDUAQaFDxxrnI9_c8OQNn5gUaipjlu6SW-PD6cm4mQYMB5RI2slaj9I9RdrJ5nUB-Vm=w469-h624-no?authuser=0)
Interesting (and well protected) moves get you up to here
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dkUWCL8tU-ty_bZwX-VWwIzUyN_WagZJCLHw4dWgZb0-8TInSGkjsHrWWwYVDbcrBtV50h7R11BMYtAMUz4t58y8cNYvV2zz5FYOIOnnY4YtrP7Az08jJaXK5HFqzQl0iMx8X2dNpvzNssYtZf_KGZ=w469-h624-no?authuser=0)
and a super fun finish
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f_F1A-phsXCm7mcNqnvE9NgHzCi6r4Sv9YeN08j5RDj1It23KGW3PhIr-0OBaSB0xpSkkJA6YAOVfuQWbxumQzeJwa3hTbTDfRfx8qdNDy7dWiRhCRDQ3XD-tUKFGp5oQr7a4e_MLfEckZpiih9L0a=w469-h624-no?authuser=0)
Kat follows the final part of Jack O' - reaching for a nice knob
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cwTqmihKn4PgI3Il7UJfDr9ahv8OffngkuVGkRZBaQK6OOg8U2ZloT5wrH_H_8XlhLLUlhZjYQ1X-B6xVH4hP3LS9vKMuOFF0RPophQ_6b2Arzkc29OhP8sh2MvzIHu_vrIHDwQqE5UCn2Rbpo-4OW=w832-h624-no?authuser=0)
We polished off the day with a run up Squareblock Rock's 3rd class chimney (more of a gully actually).
Getting through the upper choke point
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dY-Vs1NT7R55lS0_zSqThoB-FbLubScBw_0tViENRkEXLewbNqzFsnb_k_kO9wBftR1cIGLJ7PjxllNPZEoz1Ifmm-P9GmWWEg-pNw_gK5sR9P2S_9S11azB0iS36FOHQ-nzbUHoYQzdinAG7pYi_M=w469-h624-no?authuser=0)
Kat emerges on to the exposed scramble that leads to the east summit
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cPTbIicJYbiMjUPhSckOTVk4yckvnHRfFki358H9AMWEJSDIo4WBymI4Myf-2K21m0fl039TpZ2me3G_DbgY6c9ucISi17TOIs7wo8wCV48RZSbE3TQvNM4ApzItus7fK6bjAKqKvHzjrB7y4-a-EG=w832-h624-no?authuser=0)
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Hi John and Kathy,
Happy New Year!
Hopefully you enjoyed Jack O.
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Hi John and Kathy,
Happy New Year!
Hopefully you enjoyed Jack O.
They may have been two of the only Americans who enjoyed themselves yesterday. Peace and some fun routes.
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Looking forward to this weekend. Dry weather is good for the routes, bad for the water situation and Mungie.
Hope no bolts are harmed this weekend.
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Made it out for a couple very pleasant day trips recently.
Brad - I was able to visit your handiwork on Mad Max:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dNSB0pvBf5Clu6Dng8LBORWWDgSIz-uZ05RFYjENe6A6o9Q2KisKq65G1TWahFECo-SR1R1d5-O5QercFDxgL1kz8j8ZBpMcqePTWB500Jv7H-Te4eSKQHUgnrHZJhpXKkykIBM8qhwVdEqyx8hZj1=w1078-h1436-no?authuser=0)
Not a bad summit at all and for a low-5th route the climbing was enjoyable.
JC - Thanks for the recommendations - throughly enjoyable all around. Swine flue in particular was one I won't soon forget - and might not have found otherwise!
Also snapped a couple opportunistic pictures of forum member Zay and his friend W at Condor Crag:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dSin66WAXwzMJtNGRa2RjercuSQyWbZgSJCWr8qtwPFo1dm-wnaJCbcOhSrO3IjlbB_Jh5uJfuFkwVBntTtHQRp7PNmYcTQ5Hcn7OqrySYgA9Mu_ANwEDAlUw0q_UtYp8vz-JLKaU5zid1-DZLkJjZ=w1916-h1436-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dgjmFxVevYUW_l8ExxCpEN6xCoobQPBxWiZptOqFvgMiED6X2APrAJPpudpWOwrRSPANqm9PM8e7D0_5LZrBuKzhRSvNi3CYzyomsxvzXmK67sl97ZQrCFEgeR4koY20SKzNaZWIEJalt7s5oRF4lk=w1916-h1436-no?authuser=0)
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Man, that bloke in grey just LOOKS like bad news.
Chris, try clicking this link: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1OLyxRbZq9m_9oo6xogqkFcR2Qce_usyq
...should have all my pics from yesterday. Some good ones of you guys!
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On the way down, and as night fell, I started regailing to William about all the cool wildlife encounters Pinnacles has to offer. Foxes, pigs, condors... and just before I remembered to talk about the bats, this little guy starts flapping by our faces. Maybe he smelled our banana peels? Damn cute thing buzzed us for ten minutes. Five minutes later, we hear the group of girls up the trail from us start screaming periodically. Sounded like the bat made some new friends.
It's in the videos hehehe
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Good day today, crushed at the upper crust.
Super warm, lots of hikers
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Good day today, crushed at the upper crust.
Super warm, lots of hikers
It wasn't warm!
(https://www.jodylangfordphotography.com/x/cdn/?https://storage.googleapis.com/wzukusers/user-34504339/images/5bfca1043ee64TTyNVSM/pnm20.1.jpg)
(https://www.jodylangfordphotography.com/x/cdn/?https://storage.googleapis.com/wzukusers/user-34504339/images/5bfca106cb948s1ulV29/pnm25.1.jpg)
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Now that’s more like it!!
Yeah today was just crazy....70 in Hollister in the ate afternoon. Monument wa s warm for sure.
Give me freezing temps anyday.
Where were the crushers today? We had the monolith to ourselves. I could have lead the indirect traverse....not.
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Great pictures Jody - thanks for sharing.
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Nice
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Todd and I climbed Swine Flue and Dances with Warthogs to hide from the sun yesterday. So good that we did laps! The step across on Swine Flue and moves above were excellent. Great rock and consistent movement on Warthogs. Too eager to hit the trail, we didn't heed Brad's parking lot suggestion to bring a #2. Only had a set of Totems for the pockets below the first bolt on Warthogs. A #2 would have been perfect.
Having a blast working our way through the numbered list of new climbs in the High Peaks. Big thank you to Gavin, Brad, and more for the great new routes and beta.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dEKaq_tvsjXlC_vDhbS9dIiWASLVxOPy0jqhppCYixS8cnP5-J3j4FZCpwAu6P-kzUihOI60Jvn_egbCAwJklQdLYA28A3W0SJUU-ZTg-PER2RW7-WCZURSv68E-5SoEpeq7ig6T8tGQog04d4zHEA=w800-h600-no?authuser=1)
Thought this might be a good place to also share a few close encounter photos we showed Brad and Gavin. #40 circled us a few times and joined us on the summit of Spike's Peak a few weeks earlier.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eCPZEy22-OJdUFqF7wgnQi1e-qp9AFkwOB-Zb1nKuhQjvhhPCu1pjLT7lu24N87xKroO-TtckTBwHlyo4dzv7-cw_JTknRh3uDMO8ud1SChjHd7CwAH5aCUNm7j5xanxSGKg-PEIBil2npFmCvxkAa=w800-h451-no?authuser=1)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eXtXr3qkgfTpx4CDQH7Ee0vqsyDbv6Aw_jtQ-gZOcsouPVHq4TDTzWUyqi2Um9qzWTcS1mq0ojbNyTauxCK4ObrqF-UcaZo-8TfsA7vO9rx118vwkSIVQ8An4p_HdqV1HiVkFg8WV79ISUbvFJu6Vm=w800-h451-no?authuser=1)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eWSur_c-k7AalmIHUOhkIJIgTKy1GWelTISHJemeTfQYTJx6PuRxxevdOLPxcyDp4DL1I6m8VLfEd7hdKI3kwGNivLN89BnDcmG3KcjUyV-oWvPrXpGhu-KIhrtsRmxPKRrHfEULbI1HURLb5pa64G=w800-h600-no?authuser=1)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fo_IZw9tK68z5kynx38DxZYbUSZIQEhKQa9CSYvsfOzCxtOYQsr2w_6U5YjMoa1V-1ZCYmnQUk4MT0FRfNC1M69lyaNWhv-v3uo3o5cK8a3b5HFFdsSh8yF7BtoeinDlIXExDzUBMeNqewnrUzHV9i=w800-h515-no?authuser=1)
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That last photo is especially good. They're ugly, but magnificent.
Hmmmm, suddenly I'm thinking of MISTER MUD.
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Great Condor photos! Brad is right, ugly but majestic.
I watched a Bald Eagle nest last year from occupation in January until maiden voyage of the young 'un in June. Took quite a few photos.
https://www.jodylangfordphotography.com/bald-eagles-2
Just found a Golden Eagle nest today, will have to start watching that one. Will have to educate myself on their habits...not as familiar as I am with the Bald Eagles.
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Those are some cool shots.
We were driving out just as you guys hit the parking lot.
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Awesome eagle photos, Jody.
Good visiting with you yesterday, JC and KC... it's been great getting to know the community.
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Good visiting with you yesterday, JC and KC... it's been great getting to know the community.
Ditto.
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Justin, glad to hear you liked Swine Flue and Dances With Warthogs so much. I feel very satisfied with how those routes turned out. I remember drilling the crossover and above bolts on Swine Flue around my birthday (August 6) when the temps were roasting.... Worth the effort!
As for how condors look - well, I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder. ;)
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As for how condors look - well, I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder. ;)
Beauty is in the eye of the drill holder :lol: :ihih:
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That last photo is especially good. They're ugly, but magnificent.
That goes for more than a few of us, I fear.
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Anybody know who this is?
We peeled this sticker off the climber access sign at Tilting Terrace.
Pretty sure we saw one at Dragonfly Dome too but didn't realize it would peel off at the time.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dVd-wmkfU-plZWF3CyJ1lXeTzxPrOViMUnjGsC6mdYaEtWzfLxm7QgPagP5I0mw88SHml7Faq3CwKzWU7dNLKZZohvgkij7i3nFcGSMgi_bzGWym7Mqfaq3u885YbfmItnCjAaxNuQlsWJOVtjj7Us=w478-h359-no?authuser=0)
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Looks like our Indian Summer in winter is officially over.
We came home this morning after waking up to cold, rain and fog.
No crud for you!
Got a little work done, did some exploring and put up a new route that needs a finishing touch or two.
Saw a party on the last pitch of Son of Dawn late Wednesday (about to get beknighted) and evidently the leader took a fairly long fall on the last 4th class section (they posted on that other site). We heard him yell when he fell.
Guess it's time to take a break.
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Darmmmmmm, that part of SOD was expert 4th class. I placed gear even on the easy sections to piss Jame off.
Amazing the made it through the heady 5.9 section, only to have issue higher up.
Dry tomorrow?
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Dry tomorrow?
Pinns had a tenth of an inch of rain over the course of the day.
The rain gauge stopped tipping at 7:30 pm (for now).
High temp today was a whopping 50 degrees.
Good thing Noal loves wet, cold rock.
I would try Triple X and Thundering Herd.
Two of the best golf courses in the place.
For Noal
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c9Y6vhdwA7L8LkjHVMO_iaabYQmBCU4_Z6T__I-krnUZw8qi7pCRGoUoeUUuT_ym7ftasJCh_WdPkFadTBks9R0ZTT54fAV5sLp_7Rqhxta0Nx-uEP_Ldnfu85TAo3uDCdM5UR45dZJMdCjIAE1ObK=w457-h609-no?authuser=0)
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My god that looks smooth.
Yeah discovery all dries out fast with the sun. Condor even better.
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50 degrees
dam
I wish
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Yes it’s good sport climbing weather.
You know you miss it.
I can mIl you a chalked up cobble.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50256505832_953016c51f_z.jpg)
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Not bad today. Did a nice high peaks circuit.
Lead Abner Everywhere.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50869201967_afab32eebd_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50869105696_6d4bfb21f6_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50869105686_e78b3a9f4e_b.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50868403808_981425a12f_z.jpg)
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Anybody know who this is?
We peeled this sticker off the climber access sign at Tilting Terrace.
Pretty sure we saw one at Dragonfly Dome too but didn't realize it would peel off at the time.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dVd-wmkfU-plZWF3CyJ1lXeTzxPrOViMUnjGsC6mdYaEtWzfLxm7QgPagP5I0mw88SHml7Faq3CwKzWU7dNLKZZohvgkij7i3nFcGSMgi_bzGWym7Mqfaq3u885YbfmItnCjAaxNuQlsWJOVtjj7Us=w478-h359-no?authuser=0)
Social Justice Fund
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Drifting over from the bird thread.
My question is about your goat rock routes..tried one. 10a right of the 10b. It seemed a bit runout. Was curious how hard to the moves are before the 10a crux and the bolt on.
Here are my notes from Goat Riddance
The crux is spicy as hell. You have to climb an intimidatingly steep section well above the lower bolt to get up to a lodestone and clip a bolt on the lip. Getting past there requires some pretty delicate and wide stemming and the hand holds are quite small. I had to trust some handhold knobs that I didn’t want to - to get up to the bolt. Getting over the lip definitely had me at my limit and it is one where you have to keep moving steadily. The rest of the climb is relatively easy and long.
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Social Justice Fund
Do you have any basis for making that assertive statement?
If you do a Google search on "SJF logo", you get all sorts of results. Your reference did not make the first page though. The one appeared the most is "St. John Fisher" -- associated with schools and churches. The closest (to Pinnacles) I could find would be San Jose Fire, but I did not find the exact sticker as shown in the picture. Without the exact proof, I will not make stuff up, esp. when the usage of the sticker mentioned in the post is apparently considered an act of poor judgement, even though it's hardly provable that the person who randomly posts a sticker on a sign is always associated with what the sticker represents.
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Yes that was about it. Fingers were numb and I didn’t like the next few moves.
Will go back in warmer weather
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^^^
^^^
I couldn't find anything concrete either - thus the probe.
At least the sticker was high enough quality that it peeled off.
The last time we found "graffiti" on the Tilting Terrace sign it was sharpie tagging.
I spent an entire hour lightly chiseling a group of sharpie signatures off a rock in the middle of the Juniper Canyon trail.
I used sandpaper to remove tagging from the railings along the Steep and Narrow trail.
Scrubbed off a huge blue chalk arrow on the trail junction in the High Peaks (Tunnel trail/High Peaks junction).
Started the morning a couple weeks ago picking up trash that was scattered all over the bathroom/picnic area on the west side.
We now carry a trash picker and trash bags in both our vehicles.
The sides of the highway along 101 are littered for miles with chopped up agricultural plastic and trash from the bush hogs just mowing it all and cleaning up nothing. It's a total eyesore. Everyone needs to email the county and request a clean up.
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Do you have any basis for making that assertive statement?
If you do a Google search on "SJF logo", you get all sorts of results. Your reference did not make the first page though. The one appeared the most is "St. John Fisher" -- associated with schools and churches. The closest (to Pinnacles) I could find would be San Jose Fire, but I did not find the exact sticker as shown in the picture. Without the exact proof, I will not make stuff up, esp. when the usage of the sticker mentioned in the post is apparently considered an act of poor judgement, even though it's hardly provable that the person who randomly posts a sticker on a sign is always associated with what the sticker represents.
No, just a suggestion. I agree on your thought that the poster of the sticker isn't always actually associated with it.
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Mud worm, were you out crushing yesterday? Looked for you, well a Prius...
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Late to the party, as usual, but concerning Son Of Dawn Wall:
The first time I did it, my partner led the final 4th Class pitch. She pretty much stayed in the Gulley, placed a few pieces of gear, and we found it to be "pretty hard for fourth class."
The second time I did it, I lead every pitch, including the that last one: Instead of staying in the Gully, I cut out left very soon, out onto the ridge. Absolutely zero protection opportunities on that face, but the climbing was exceptionally easier (honest 3rd and 4th class). This was also led to a summit register box that we did not see on my first ascent of the route. Following this ridge led right to the anchor bolts as last time (rap station for The Hideout, I believe).
I hope that is useful to somebody
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Late to the party, as usual, but concerning Son Of Dawn Wall:
The first time I did it, my partner led the final 4th Class pitch. She pretty much stayed in the Gulley, placed a few pieces of gear, and we found it to be "pretty hard for fourth class."
The second time I did it, I lead every pitch, including the that last one: Instead of staying in the Gully, I cut out left very soon, out onto the ridge. Absolutely zero protection opportunities on that face, but the climbing was exceptionally easier (honest 3rd and 4th class). This was also led to a summit register box that we did not see on my first ascent of the route. Following this ridge led right to the anchor bolts as last time (rap station for The Hideout, I believe).
I hope that is useful to somebody
I've heard people say 4th class can mean moves up to 5.8 (Mr. Mud would say 5.7).
According to the poster on that other site - his partner went right (not left) out of the gully and evidently thought he could trust Pinnacles rock. Two...two...two mistakes in one.
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A few shots from the redpoint of Grin and Bear It 5.9 (closed now for raptors)
Near the top of the best part (the start) - first 40 feet is gear protected
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eNm-LD5dNpG9DpFlOvi-MpMnbDftyh4zff2IKwt9Nr6YdDZ-vbArlmGJuhcMcbjwHsJ6I2zG9f6DOLqlMMiS_hx4RkuQsIbECpLa3OsWbmbLTK5zqJYeYEnOEI7gp5bzjPYH7xgi1q9GDBQ1qqyMHb=w457-h609-no?authuser=0)
Stemming across to start the crumbly but well protected traverse
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c1IfChtNAHHaQZ5eDpTXPNRXBFrL5OVaqzEhy6-jbeyngSjPoGMHGGClH-ATviyf_En3dzvU1qyfwm-E76NYRR74HQ4TQWat90zEmYhKoLFS6IZV0w6l8juNfw86Wp9t_S91xYk4jHLFV3n8OwHXrp=w907-h609-no?authuser=0)
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This past Wednesday the 20th was our first day back on the west side after high winds passed through Pinnacles.
Just before we got to the gate, there was a big broken-off branch blocking the outbound lane.
I had my tree saw - so we stopped and cut a big piece off, moved that to the inbound shoulder of the road and rolled the main piece onto the outbound shoulder. I should have taken a pic before we cut and moved it.
The cut piece and some loose, broken branches we moved to the inbound shoulder
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d1iFD3PLZ4S5PfnnjYi8tNW0EZ3ZrJeAWzRdjXlXPcNoKLzAf6yuEZ--C9us8hpQpkgSf_hLUmK7lGcjuXN4wmzsV8rZ6W086jlyM1pG6Wh4WMJpsGHXjxX3YpUJLXCrSapXYGbayVFDrkWrnEPXoi=w812-h609-no?authuser=0)
The main branch we rolled up onto the outbound shoulder
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3es-QfZrjXDhq9bWW-kx3YzQapY9HyDI8Wfrddk_ugNps7v4-tfPZRBUSl_VvGG2wkR65vgHlBkPkQ7YfPhqLzeVd1u8STT54DZsG77plxfGj6NYhdeSndU52sEu2_1KaaiU1dmEN0uBERgS8t7rUd9=w812-h609-no?authuser=0)
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Near the top of the best part (the start) - first 40 feet is gear protected
Cool looking stemming - I'll have to check this out in the fall!
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Ha! The stemming was or is the best part....did the rest clean up?
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This past Wednesday the 20th was our first day back on the west side after high winds passed through Pinnacles.
Just before we got to the gate, there was a big broken-off branch blocking the outbound lane.
I had my tree saw - so we stopped and cut a big piece off, moved that to the inbound shoulder of the road and rolled the main piece onto the outbound shoulder. I should have taken a pic before we cut and moved it.
The cut piece and some loose, broken branches we moved to the inbound shoulder
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d1iFD3PLZ4S5PfnnjYi8tNW0EZ3ZrJeAWzRdjXlXPcNoKLzAf6yuEZ--C9us8hpQpkgSf_hLUmK7lGcjuXN4wmzsV8rZ6W086jlyM1pG6Wh4WMJpsGHXjxX3YpUJLXCrSapXYGbayVFDrkWrnEPXoi=w812-h609-no?authuser=0)
The main branch we rolled up onto the outbound shoulder
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3es-QfZrjXDhq9bWW-kx3YzQapY9HyDI8Wfrddk_ugNps7v4-tfPZRBUSl_VvGG2wkR65vgHlBkPkQ7YfPhqLzeVd1u8STT54DZsG77plxfGj6NYhdeSndU52sEu2_1KaaiU1dmEN0uBERgS8t7rUd9=w812-h609-no?authuser=0)
They really ought to pay you two for all you do.
Grin and Bear It looked and looks good from below. I'll have to take your word for it that the rock quality isn't good... at least for now.
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Serious soft brushing needed
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cool looking route
A few shots from the redpoint of Grin and Bear It 5.9 (closed now for raptors)
Near the top of the best part (the start) - first 40 feet is gear protected
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eNm-LD5dNpG9DpFlOvi-MpMnbDftyh4zff2IKwt9Nr6YdDZ-vbArlmGJuhcMcbjwHsJ6I2zG9f6DOLqlMMiS_hx4RkuQsIbECpLa3OsWbmbLTK5zqJYeYEnOEI7gp5bzjPYH7xgi1q9GDBQ1qqyMHb=w457-h609-no?authuser=0)
Stemming across to start the crumbly but well protected traverse
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c1IfChtNAHHaQZ5eDpTXPNRXBFrL5OVaqzEhy6-jbeyngSjPoGMHGGClH-ATviyf_En3dzvU1qyfwm-E76NYRR74HQ4TQWat90zEmYhKoLFS6IZV0w6l8juNfw86Wp9t_S91xYk4jHLFV3n8OwHXrp=w907-h609-no?authuser=0)
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More details later...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eKdL_6gi1gQYGOYACdrdv04E034sPrLmBTsLqmpQtgq6fysIyWYyfgMc7_FT-CDGe89Oip8cPMiPH9ls9LChktMTjRv8ZwN0eFUod-IBUsue9mzK3goOwZCVwxhgLbEFFqIpTjChLLor4f3iItuczD=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Its now later.
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Its now later.
Question: what would you name a route on Pachyderm Pinnacle that started up a 45 foot flared chimney?
Thinking about the various areas of an elephant's body I came up with "Under the Tail" or "Behind the Ear." I settled on the second one. J.C. is making the route's second ascent (I was on the summit drilling an anchor while he did so).
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Elephantitis... of the nuts ...if nuts were used to free it.
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nuts :out:
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Elephantitis... of the nuts ...
I wonder how he rides a bike?
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I wonder how he rides a bike?
;D ;D ;D
Now I really want to climb it. Great pics of the flare JC & KC.
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;D ;D ;D
Now I really want to climb it. Great pics of the flare JC & KC.
I'll have the route description up soon.
And by the way, since German Shepherd has now met my Toller: Charlotte says "hi."
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I'll have the route description up soon.
And by the way, since German Shepherd has now met my Toller: Charlotte says "hi."
Yes, sounds good Brad, looking forward to it, and thanks for the topo that morning. I have a greeting for Charlotte as well: "woof!"
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^^^
This conversation has gone completely to the dogs.
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^^^
This conversation has gone completely to the dogs.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50931674777_0e2b92cce6_c.jpg)
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50931674777_0e2b92cce6_c.jpg)
I love this photo! Totally meme worthy.
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Meme: “Don’t splash the puddle, you say? Buahahhahah!”
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Question: what would you name a route on Pachyderm Pinnacle that started up a 45 foot flared chimney?
How about Junk In The Trunk? ;D
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We have a winner! Don tell him what he won.
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How about Junk In The Trunk? ;D
Are you kidding? Playing with us?
That's not the name for the new route, but we found a never-reported route on the same pinnacle. You'll see later today, when I post six new routes, that that's what we named it: Junk in the Trunk (someone must have told you?).
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Are you kidding? Playing with us?
That's not the name for the new route, but we found a never-reported route on the same pinnacle. You'll see later today, when I post six new routes, that that's what we named it: Junk in the Trunk (someone must have told you?).
Nope.
Great minds.
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Nice - glad to hear that name is going to one of the routes. ;)
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Ever wonder why you never see elephants hiding up into the treetops?
They're just really freakin' good at it
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Maybe we should rename it REquest for mud. Almost a year and no posts.
Who's questing out there? Gonna be questing? Thinking about questing? Did some questing but forgot to post about it?
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Quasimodo without a Belle. So sad. :(
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Maybe we should rename it REquest for mud. Almost a year and no posts.
Who's questing out there? Gonna be questing? Thinking about questing? Did some questing but forgot to post about it?
Duuuuude.
I agree that it sucks because I really miss it.
I plan to continue the Quest as soon as I am physically and visually able.
In the interim, enjoy every second of every day because you never know when life will throw you a curve ball - and when you try to sidestep it - it knocks you on your ass and then smacks you right between the eyes.
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Maybe we should rename it REquest for mud. Almost a year and no posts.
Who's questing out there? Gonna be questing? Thinking about questing? Did some questing but forgot to post about it?
Ohhh the questing is still happening. also, Miss you JC/KC! Hope you're doing well. Will be up in the Northern High Peaks Friday (e.g., Freedom Dome, Eggshell, etc..Squareblock, Half-Pumpkin Dome, Spike's Peak). Pics will happen then, for the benefit of the forum. Agree with your words of savoring the daily moments.
~woof
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^^^
Thanks Nick.
You will like Pocket Protector. Jack O is fun too.
Going out to do Squareblock Crack was the first time I climbed with clink.
If you haven't done it yet, I also recommend Mr. Bolt Jangles.
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Cormac & I had a great Friday up in the High Peaks, questing around.
First we hoofed it out to Squareblock, which, was actually a pretty chill approach (no routefinding errors). Warmed up on Pocket Protector (5.6**), which was definitely still cleaning up, but fun movement. I got a pretty good #3 towards the top of the route, and thoroughly enjoyed the route length. Photo from the rap, as my mind was too focused on not raining down lichen and cobbles on Cormac. Next time, I'd love to check out some of the other routes on Squareblock.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVEySfLTeurxPeLfqatgUoQPWedo_w4DKMv5hNwPTAqRmWsNqH0jRLy43G3aM3t7hu2upQr5sU2XMpCortwKE_I8LFtO9nz-DcGWYwBVWpyJ8uPJtpTG-n0xFvf1XoFO2OGmD31a9gN9qDO73S_E1Lk=w1036-h1380-no?authuser=0)
Then we headed over to Half-Pumpkin Dome to run up Jack O' (5.8*). We both thought this was a great addition for any Squareblock outing, despite it's shortness, packed in some super fun movement, and was a cool little dome. The sun started to crest over HPD just as we finished up, and headed back to the Freedom/Spike's area.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUuw8gFVr7FwDJyPUNf4rgwzUx6S5LM4oHDPj9Y4HpsL7WN7iKR4xfO2dpVenZii0WDPSKu4LyAV_Q2UiW7bBD8k6epqxYLkHRZYP-5ScGCUXNSqxCvKHaJnDoWE3aNPMrWpTiyYknpg_KFIpvN7fME=w1036-h1380-no?authuser=0)
I'd been wanting to get on the Freedom Dome regular route (5.9**) for quite a while, though the route intimidated me. When we got to the base of the dome (after the short gully), I stared up at the closely spaced first 3 bolts (lulling me into a sense of security), and knew it needed to happen today. The traverse over to bolt 4 is pretty solid, but also engaging, LOL, as is the roof clip (true crux of the route).
The regular route was the true gem of the day, and we ended up running a bunch of laps on it, and Preferred Freedom (5.9R) next door, which was super comical and quite different in character from the RR. Can you spot the German Shepherd blending in?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWY9mQAntiPgIAeQJdUR2t4dUp0UVU-Np8MnBPOh7AE_2ZANIkXF-n1Wxsv9K75dmn7aa60ODjJHI0qOJHLlJv23i-2y9hnKoFelwHbahQr13zE5hVJ2BO59mXbM-gZzRrW-BFwT2SkABBcxwluyiTJ=w1840-h1380-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWxCzheyCo_aFetDA2-Bdy4rkMag8v4_mILJU69xkl-ZQLTHlFqyXuVbC6vLyclikyjW5ayJMyXcENhFYoV52xqBI4oyjv_bWANCrc3U9ueSB8CBaJEIRpJXezs-0Dj-OU2_cRi2nldeNC35ltfxy90=w1036-h1380-no?authuser=0)
That little picture-frame slot between Freedom and the Eggshell is super beautiful
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWQn8F-1B-wd1BD7rAnCUtbSzEgeiPBjPOkxW6QiEh1tVcWF0-AaCbhRz05Fz-kNRqB-CYtE9QOZQpCbD7prGm8QukOr1pFs2_choLOn73QNMaAj6weQ4D_yaMLBKnYPwrQFVAyyGbkQxl97AB-EkQz=w1036-h1380-no?authuser=0)
We ended the day on Spike's Peak, running some laps on Abuela (5.8), and pondering the Dragonfly Dome runouts / fantasizing about leading Little Javelina. All in all, a great High Peaks day, ~10 miles hiked, ~10ish pitches - little to no humans, many Condors accompanying us, and the Quest continues.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXQvEjU_QW18FrZCESAFZBD_0bQt26mVyZg_A-ZG7LdlU322MjGcJUq7PF55ZhDCGlBWg8trIZqzifuxueORTu8VDuzvhD6lwRAPoKoBteqejXAkHpVATMZnDQtsHBf0rGF4PlxmG2NbEY1FdWtMUWG=w1840-h1380-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXiiZIzRtdtZP3cLegOr6JD14YIPuj_DxOdd41Z4mL0eXrKxljqgH3iWAzkBV88IBb93N9xxm2tsx-TBMAwYmfeKtnB2fqFjZEUw-t1leWmEfSBkzA51NWh3QvF2UxdPofiLxy8l436pdCkZZ5hWgG7=w1840-h1380-no?authuser=0)
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Nice report. The skies are so blue in your photos that it is almost scary (will it ever rain again?).
As usual, I had to work last Friday.
I have a question about Half Pumpkin Dome: while you were there did you run up the easy route, Peter Peter? My favorite climbing numbers are the sheer number of routes I do and I always try to pick off "extra" routes if and when I can.
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I gotta add too that it is great seeing people visiting the less traveled stuff. No doubt you would have had solitude there if it had been a Saturday and not a Friday.
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I have a question about Half Pumpkin Dome: while you were there did you run up the easy route, Peter Peter? My favorite climbing numbers are the sheer number of routes I do and I always try to pick off "extra" routes if and when I can.
Thanks Brad! We didn't run up Peter Peter, though I did look at it. We just did a couple laps on Jack O' and moved on, with our other High Peaks goals in mind. I always try to do what you said as well, though my motivation for some of our other goals that day was higher.
Soon I want to head over to Get Smart and the Flying None to check those out!
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On the subject of such total numbers, I am in real, severe danger this year.
Although I will soon exceed 1,200 routes done at Pinnacles in good style, this summer (if I am still around and climbing), I will reach a point where I have done more routes on Sonora Pass than at Pinnacles. Sad. But there are just so many more routes up here that I haven't done and, honestly, so many more FAs to do.
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Thanks for the report Nick.
I hate to say this but I can only see parts of your pictures. I see you are using Google and I know there is a way to make the files smaller so the whole picture displays. I think it is a choice when you upload. I chose that option when I started uploading to Google (just trying to help).
I knew you would like Pocket Protector. The old routes out there are pretty scrappy and the Holmgren route on the front looks downright dangerous. clink and I had fun on Squareblock Crack but there is not much pro.
I liked Freedom Dome until I got to that upper crux. The route was originally aided, so that bolt is too low and you are going to get tweaked or hurt if you blow the moves.(which are pretty thin as I recall). Those bolts at the start are an old aid ladder.
After we did Peter Peter I told Brad I would have called it Got Wood? - although there is less wood on the route now.
Dragonfly is a cool climb but I do not think the tricams I had in holes would have held a fall and I have also heard that there is an easy and a hard way to get to bolt 2. The route scared me pretty good and from the noises I was making while I led it, we have referred to it as Drama Queen Dome ever since.
Spikes Peak has some great shade for warmer days.
Check out Cinder if you want a short thrill. You start moving past the bolt and it is Oh Shit!
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Looks like you guys had a fun day.
You can get a lot of routes in one day climbing in the High Peaks just walking down the trail picking them off as you go.. Especially if you climb during the week because you can do the ones over the trail. Until last spring I had never climbed St. Valentines or Abner Bear. I enjoyed both of them. I also enjoyed the routes in the chimney at Spikes. The chimney is surprisingly not too cold.
Give Dragonfly Dome a try. It might be a little runout but the rock quality is super good.
Some other fun things to do: tack a trip to Goat Rock onto your High Peaks circuit. Do Scout Peak area, Fels Rock, cut through the notch in Pinch and Lynch do some of those, then try to do OCD at the Voyeur Wall.
I have been questing myself every weekend for the last month but I have been solo and shoe shots are not that interesting. Thanks for posting some photos!
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Looks like you guys had a fun day.
You can get a lot of routes in one day climbing in the High Peaks just walking down the trail picking them off as you go.. Especially if you climb during the week because you can do the ones over the trail. Until last spring I had never climbed St. Valentines or Abner Bear. I enjoyed both of them. I also enjoyed the routes in the chimney at Spikes. The chimney is surprisingly not too cold.
Give Dragonfly Dome a try. It might be a little runout but the rock quality is super good.
Some other fun things to do: tack a trip to Goat Rock onto your High Peaks circuit. Do Scout Peak area, Fels Rock, cut through the notch in Pinch and Lynch do some of those, then try to do OCD at the Voyeur Wall.
Great to hear your thoughts, Noal & JC.
I agree, on the boundless questing possibilities out there, and really appreciate the new suggestions!
I think I will give Dragonfly a shot next time, and tack on some of those suggestions for next time (e.g., Goat Rock, Scout Peak, etc...). I've only done a bit of questing over there, and those new routes that Gavin put up near Goat Rock look nice and long. Abner and St Valentine's have been on my to do for some time now as well. Those will have to get worked in next trip. I've also wanted to do Condor Condiment forever, but haven't found a partner yet for that one.
Hope everyone's having a nice Valentine's Day. Different kind of a quest there :-)
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^^^
Condor Condiment stays in the shade and is a great route.
All the bolts are old but only a few are flexing in the holes.
Some of the hangers are stainless SMC's but most are Leepers.
You may as well do Sidehorse when you do Dragonfly.
The start pitch of Condor Crag is in your face.
I led it clean once (the first time) - so when I went back to do all the other routes - I aided it for the practice. It takes a bunch of pieces and it was really fun for me because I had never aided on gear. The second time I tried climbing it free I fell twice - just about landing on Kats head - at which point she said - that is enough. We went and climbed something else that day. Those old Condor routes are fun and The Fingers are also not to be missed - they are old school cool.
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I just combed through my photos over the years and most Valentines Days we were not at Pinns or not climbing anything new
In 2014 I was out rebolting with Bruce.
In 2015 I was at the Lower Flumes with Gavin and Brad confirming all the routes.
Ironically, the only year I was climbing something new on Valentines was 2020.
waldo and BAP were out with us too. I posted some pics on this thread a day later but here are a few more
3 bolts in, leading Mr. Boltjangles
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXiupjpf1UfYm2YQNQ8Tt6uPZ6NSEkiCoqsaAnTVT3id4sj61xZd0TZkLj-Kki-SKVWEGy_KuYD4RrIv55tXdpY3nrIIlgKPHEfoIOcqITR0ailDxZo42MH6TYUCGVUX5wnH7JWXFb5wn4-Gm2FtXVd=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
waldo with Condor Crag
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVSYVMLHC8tddDd91r5BRC-sVHPQA_hCLJIuYE5Dl_Kr3wTt16KWp50-ySXE70GyHycmU454ZSsCF8vN_xzApVnlKeYOF6P8e25SuQMYQVpaGvMOpAHLaeRW9exrywI0SgOHsRZrs9Ak_w6lzr40TiJ=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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Nice photo of Waldo.
I've also wanted to do Condor Condiment forever, but haven't found a partner yet for that one
It's been awhile since I have climbed it. If you can not find a partner I might be up for climbing it again. Unfortunately I am not available to climb during the week.
Here's a little doable circuit for 5.9 climbers:
Dragonfly Dome
Abuella Conchinita
Little Javelina (or one of the easier routes in the chimney to the left)
Burgundy Dome
Piglet
Sponge
Jeepers TR
Shades of Jade
Up the Buttress (top half after the chimney) rappel into corridor
Cut through notch in Pinch and Lynch
OCD Overdrive
If there's still daylight TR Cutting the Rug
I went out yesterday and finished up a new route. It is 5.8ish or 5.9 two pitches. Second pitch is 90 degree stemming corner. I have some teaser shots of my feet but I don't think I can post with my phone.
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Condiment's 2nd belay has only two stars for bolts and the stance is small. Have I mentioned that there is a great slot for an alien (green or yellow) that backs up the old bolts? It's to climber's right and a little higher than the level of the bolts. Have fun and don't lean back.
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I just combed through my photos over the years and most Valentines Days we were not at Pinns or not climbing anything new
In 2014 I was out rebolting with Bruce.
In 2015 I was at the Lower Flumes with Gavin and Brad confirming all the routes.
Ironically, the only year I was climbing something new on Valentines was 2020.
waldo and BAP were out with us too. I posted some pics on this thread a day later but here are a few more
Nice pics JC, and recs for the High Peaks Circuit! I still need to go do Mr. Boltjangles, that is up on the docket for next time...
It's been awhile since I have climbed it. If you can not find a partner I might be up for climbing it again. Unfortunately I am not available to climb during the week.
Here's a little doable circuit for 5.9 climbers:
Dragonfly Dome
Abuella Conchinita
Little Javelina (or one of the easier routes in the chimney to the left)
Burgundy Dome
Piglet
Sponge
Jeepers TR
Shades of Jade
Up the Buttress (top half after the chimney) rappel into corridor
Cut through notch in Pinch and Lynch
OCD Overdrive
If there's still daylight TR Cutting the Rug
I went out yesterday and finished up a new route. It is 5.8ish or 5.9 two pitches. Second pitch is 90 degree stemming corner. I have some teaser shots of my feet but I don't think I can post with my phone.
Appreciate your recs as well Noal. I've done about 3/4 of that circuit (not on the same trip), and that is definitely a nice 5.9 collection. Still need to check out Shades of Jade / OCD Overdrive.
If you're up for doing Condor Condiment sometime soon, i'd certainly enjoy that. Will DM you privately to chat about it/exchange info.
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Condiment's 2nd belay has only two stars for bolts and the stance is small. Have I mentioned that there is a great slot for an alien (green or yellow) that backs up the old bolts? It's to climber's right and a little higher than the level of the bolts. Have fun and don't lean back.
waldo - Are you sure that is not pitch 3?
I do not have anything in my notes about problems with the p2 anchor (I led p2 and 4).
I do recall and have pictures of Jim backing up the anchor on p3. He did not have the right gear so he knotted a cord and slotted the knot above and to the right. It was quite ingenious and I will never forget that day climbing with Jim and Bill.
On a positive note I wrote that all the stars looked good and the hangers were stainless SMCs. All my pictures seem to bear that out.
There is one buttonhead at p1 anchor that needs replaced. It would be good just to get another modern bolt in there.
The only other buttonhead I saw was one on pitch 1 and there was another bolt really close. I could have sworn there were some Leepers on p1 but my notes and pictures do not show any. I did write that a few of the hangers are a bit loose.
Unfortunately, I did not take a picture of p1 anchor - I was swinging through to lead p2 with the two of them hanging at the p1 belay.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUy9WevAai937Ns6zL8NJuVdm2R1Uwv_cl0LjUKDtvklU8xIxj17VD3Pw24lX5FGv3SHbJjZmf8kIYBoPrJ3GA3zZqNFdPUY2cZYdFL7DNdlSqt8MxTJ3iP3xxr56nbAvKL4cMiXSuroxM59OoeJjrR=w469-h625-no?authuser=0).
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Appreciate your recs as well Noal. I've done about 3/4 of that circuit (not on the same trip), and that is definitely a nice 5.9 collection. Still need to check out Shades of Jade / OCD Overdrive.
A good variation would be to cut out Burgundy, Piglet, and Sponge and substitute Condor Condiment or add other routes like Fifi Wears Lycra, Pet Rock Syndrome etc. For circuits I prefer to pick mostly 2 and 3 star routes and dont do anything less than 50ft tall.
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^^^
Burgundy is necky and Sponge is really fun (thoughtful start, great rock, cool holds up higher).
Have you climbed Fifi? It is good until it is not. Weird finish too. I can elaborate but not unsolicited. Not star worthy imo.
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No, I have not climbed it yet. Just threw it in there as a possibility. Pet Rock Syndrome can be included in that list too but harder than 5.9.
I remember when we climbed Condor Condiment we also did that crack route The Hand Me Down. It was pretty good. Long hand crack which is unique for Pinns. The second pitch is kind of a snooze fest.
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Snooze Fest is my new favorite sport.
I took a decent lead fall on Condor Condiment. Foot hold broke.
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waldo - Are you sure that is not pitch 3?
I do not have anything in my notes about problems with the p2 anchor (I led p2 and 4).
I do recall and have pictures of Jim backing up the anchor on p3. He did not have the right gear so he knotted a cord and slotted the knot above and to the right. It was quite ingenious and I will never forget that day climbing with Jim and Bill.
On a positive note I wrote that all the stars looked good and the hangers were stainless SMCs. All my pictures seem to bear that out.
There is one buttonhead at p1 anchor that needs replaced. It would be good just to get another modern bolt in there.
The only other buttonhead I saw was one on pitch 1 and there was another bolt really close. I could have sworn there were some Leepers on p1 but my notes and pictures do not show any. I did write that a few of the hangers are a bit loose.
Unfortunately, I did not take a picture of p1 anchor - I was swinging through to lead p2 with the two of them hanging at the p1 belay.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUy9WevAai937Ns6zL8NJuVdm2R1Uwv_cl0LjUKDtvklU8xIxj17VD3Pw24lX5FGv3SHbJjZmf8kIYBoPrJ3GA3zZqNFdPUY2cZYdFL7DNdlSqt8MxTJ3iP3xxr56nbAvKL4cMiXSuroxM59OoeJjrR=w469-h625-no?authuser=0).
JC, that jammed knot technique is straight from Dave Gregory's Brit playbook. I think I've even used it in the Sierras some place. It's great that Jim used it up there on the 3rd belay. I only recall one bolt at that belay and some "bomber" (according to Holmgren) aliens. The bolts at belay two were good but the big drop there always made me want more. The backup alien alleviated my desire to get out of there. I'll mention, too, that Jack and I rapped off those two stars a couple of times. Once was after I put a bolt in above the pitch 2 belay and the other was because we got that far and were freezing. It's a long free rappel for sure. We knew those 3/16ths buttonheads were pretty worthless and this was the last climb on which we used them.
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^^^
Thanks waldo.
I do have one other question.
What is the story on that off-route bolt on pitch 1.
Started that way and then changed your mind?
Here are some pics of the pitch 3 belay.
It looks like Jim used everything he had - some of his, some of mine.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWU7SmvIag7kTx5zb04jy0R_UwsIgx1t_Ba5feAFPenA0JdRhYYtmGdJ4OwppnzUFgK4lUVmpdyxsW90EKb-VNeI_b1I__oIYOP2B2Lolcvt0GGaUCqRcjaZ-j2ToCu9c2qBMmCnO65nEyBVvA564Ia=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
Here is a closeup of the slotted knot
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLX5sj9nMdPsz0WWNwb9kq2cFm7_pwGPTBXY4ccJUL9e0Ic1fvMdkNuiTcb2-n40Ou1083zXkuMV3-ZgQWr3y5XKssFAZpARQ8FVf-fCGQleGgs4A4flWtecdHhPlxRz2JJ0glc4FFdYcy6XLcv8qtdH=w384-h288-no?authuser=0)
Here is the lone bolt. It looks brand new. This was 2014. FA 1995
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWy-DbE48bB4rGAgm2iwDFTXVqU8DI-WD8StD_7gs0hBCxcQwvHZ03SJTvNRWo3W0hQybSeh_nr-dOQqTLUGAAgikuoYZDf0jC0YPOkjkvuCTlBpWnIyxlLKUJZzVvWeX4dp_REhk8JBzu6M1VLzALa=w352-h263-no?authuser=0)
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^^^
Thanks waldo.
I do have one other question.
What is the story on that off-route bolt on pitch 1.
Started that way and then changed your mind?
Here are some pics of the pitch 3 belay.
It looks like Jim used everything he had - some of his, some of mine.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWU7SmvIag7kTx5zb04jy0R_UwsIgx1t_Ba5feAFPenA0JdRhYYtmGdJ4OwppnzUFgK4lUVmpdyxsW90EKb-VNeI_b1I__oIYOP2B2Lolcvt0GGaUCqRcjaZ-j2ToCu9c2qBMmCnO65nEyBVvA564Ia=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
Here is a closeup of the slotted knot
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLX5sj9nMdPsz0WWNwb9kq2cFm7_pwGPTBXY4ccJUL9e0Ic1fvMdkNuiTcb2-n40Ou1083zXkuMV3-ZgQWr3y5XKssFAZpARQ8FVf-fCGQleGgs4A4flWtecdHhPlxRz2JJ0glc4FFdYcy6XLcv8qtdH=w384-h288-no?authuser=0)
Here is the lone bolt. It looks brand new. This was 2014. FA 1995
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWy-DbE48bB4rGAgm2iwDFTXVqU8DI-WD8StD_7gs0hBCxcQwvHZ03SJTvNRWo3W0hQybSeh_nr-dOQqTLUGAAgikuoYZDf0jC0YPOkjkvuCTlBpWnIyxlLKUJZzVvWeX4dp_REhk8JBzu6M1VLzALa=w352-h263-no?authuser=0)
Great detail shots of belay 3! Jack put in that off-route bolt (a buttonhead?) before I joined the project. He sent me up and left. Losing the superfluous bolt didn't seem urgent then or later. It was many years before anyone besides us climbed it. I'm sure he wouldn't mind its removal now.
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nice pics waldo
cool circuit Noal
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nice pics waldo
:confused:
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Possession is...
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Not possession
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Yep, no preproposing
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DIE
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There he is.
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I just noticed the nice pic Waldo should have been nice pics JC
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Rectification
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Echo...
Echo...
Echo...
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Jeez, it rained yesterday.
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^^^
Sorry... I just miss posting on this thread.
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You must have some old photos you never posted.
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I heard there was some serious Eye Candy in the park on Saturday.
Here's a couple old shots of me placing gear and moving above the gear on Chubby Rain
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49600714842_87e7a5921e.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49599956158_e66c3cedc9.jpg)
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Keep It Together
Don't Show it to the Laker Girls
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUL5SFqcZqiWJrI7Js9POyIe62NtlkOXbaCTUSQuNUyYsIdacwzI-B_YXFg4XEGTWhv5u63ZdgbtZa0OUPgXmTbOPi1Avz1M_9eJ4Ju0ZGKb14o38NTwz7ZAD4GSbN_ePV1ZuQEOQnL3IUNiMdaqPFu=w750-h562-no?authuser=0)
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I mislabeled one of the previous pics of Chubby Rain. I noticed the mistake based on the position of that prominent hole on the face (at my left hip).
Here is one of me clipping the crux bolt
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXsG7MKrRrNc5z9S0VmEL9kKl5uKJhgyqvjgNEq_Gk7TGtkZn58mcnVUpJM7OJVnaaEbqblponIuXnChPPiYG1Rm3t2o5I25c6Xf4IlSpCB1ILouddhDLx5lvf0h0hdhlMJemKxnWf70oi-R4K9IwG6=w468-h624-no?authuser=0)
and moving right into the crux
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXwWe6MywwNrL-UbJa2Ai8pRaE9UXNhqopaNipxOhaRoieAOmbGSbFIXRR32EpPrqXv0t8RjNjWYR2OIe_jEQ1Rh2oG9IWHmixRwhTg1S_t2X5EIBVHfcI4VYbfOP4ADdcav3U4CgVlL8mw1m9Efzhr=w468-h624-no?authuser=0)
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^^^
Invalid without an orange shirt.
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And a couple more cropped and enhanced for detail. That big hole doesn't seem to be good for much at first and then you find the undercling (spoiler alert). The left hand hold (side cling) is hidden and a welcome surprise. I still can't believe I was lucky enough to get to work on this climb - all credit goes to Noal - man...what a find!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWt8M1VmYiftvNDLXB_xyJgrQh655sh1bvncJGPALBvUlExvJVuOwOPNMNQzHPmAINyJ6RYgAttqY6qtdh1Kmnkq8WtuyPdOFg2dqcgxTq9t4BAzqE8MdgbwCu2CeKDccmRF9Wdyy_hlHQP5Vb-s9JJ=w434-h580-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLV4xq9CbPxeU2jPGWI_1SZYeVFcy3OpEp9uazDBd-x4dJ2kYq0VZf5l3UPryTYaWIejpRVEddyiYX1bUk5kCDS_H7hYIVjKvw-wZJx351851QM3g0PxQjZmbo0dRGgN1hw0GDU7vXhx-piEvhkHkgxs=w469-h624-no?authuser=0)
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^^^
Invalid without an orange shirt.
I changed my signature a while back. :yesnod: :thumbup:
channeling my inner Gavin
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48079821448_a2fa1514ba.jpg)
or not
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51912591846_f6d21c8486.jpg)
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That last one looks like you're climbing with snow falling! ;D
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Special Defects?
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Got a reminder that two days ago was the anniversary of finishing Here's Mud In Your Eye and the beginning of a great summer.
The summer of mud to be exact.
Good times. :yesnod: :thumbup: :ihih:
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:puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :
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Got nuthin' else to do at the moment. :prrr: :ciappa:
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The pukes are for the song. Possibly some of the worst music EVER.
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^^^
I LOVE that song!
Be even better if Neil Young covered it.
The barf at that time for me was the emergence of bands like Journey/Steve Perry.
It signaled the end of an era.
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Cool looking line
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Which one?
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Chubby Rain
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Yep tis nice. Would be good this weekend. Shady and up high.
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It would appear this site is now defunct.
Is this some type of seasonal affective disorder?
I know Gavin is still there but he rarely posts anything about his climbing.
Rumor has it that Noal is lurking on the west side.
I'm still waiting to be resurrected from the dead.
Do miracles happen?
Only time will tell.
Imagine yourself travelling through another dimension, a dimension only of sight FUBAR.
A journey into a land whose boundaries are constantly blurred and superimposed.
Imagine some unknown force jerking the rug out from under what was your life and then laughing in your face.
That's the signpost up ahead - your next stop but you can't read it - the Cockeyed Zone.
:crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
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The site's not defunct. It's just hard to think about Pinnacles when you know it's gonna be 108 degrees Fahrenheit there.
My summertime posting here is usually just PCT stuff and it isn't clear that that can/will happen this year. So, if I'm not posting, consider me to be in "anticipatory pouring."
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This site is not defunct. It has tons of useful info. From what I can gather there are quite a bit of people who lurk on here (and rarely or never post) that are searching for info. The info as far as I can tell pertains to :
1. How to put up a new route
2. How to replace bolts
3. Are there any aid climbs that have not been freed.
4. Ground up vs. Rap bolting.
To the lurkers : the information you are seeking can be obtained by participation. This site is here for everyone (and hopefully) future generations. Post up and you might get better results than what the repeated searches have supplied you so far.
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From what I can gather there are quite a bit of people who lurk on here (and rarely or never post) that are searching for info.
One of them is staying here now, ready to climb with us tomorrow. He's gonna get a lecture in a few minutes....
1. How to put up a new route
2. How to replace bolts
3. Are there any aid climbs that have not been freed.
4. Ground up vs. Rap bolting.
To the lurkers : the information you are seeking can be obtained by participation. This site is here for everyone (and hopefully) future generations. Post up and you might get better results than what the repeated searches have supplied you so far.
He was asking earlier this evening about Arch - Up the Center. I pointed out that there is a whole THREAD on the damn thing.
He's about to get a second lecture about how sites don't thrive without participation....
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I also get that more than half of the stuff on the forum is rather goofy inside jokes between a smallish group of people that are all friends.
In the off season it is perfectly acceptable to take a break from that banter. And yes there is an off season for Pinns. The summer time might get a anomaly 70 something degree day but June thru September are generally brutal. There are people being carried out from heat exhaustion on the regular. It is not to be taken lightly.
So if we don't talk about Pinns during the summer that's OK. I think at its best this forum is to document.
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It's just SAD.
You're both being too serious for me and the site is indeed defunct.
I like that word and so does Kat.
Perusing the site for recent activity is like driving down Hwy 66 wondering what the hell happened and remembering the way things used to be.
Those days are gone forever...I should just let 'em go but...
clink is in retirement now and so someone else has to try and start trouble.
Mud moved away.
F4 is still looking for a bathroom with the best view.
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You're both being too serious for me and I am defunct.
I fixed it for you. :lol:
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^^^
Damn...kick a brotha when he's down...
And by using a Brad-ism no less...
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Throw on that eye patch get out there and die from heat stroke!
You could be out there making memories that will last for never!
Once you designate something as the good old days you will be chasing the past. The good old days suck ass. Right now is where it's at.
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Damn near died from heat stroke today at almost 7,000 feet elevation. And I did it without using an eye patch. It's actually pretty easy to get too hot.
The good old days were magnificent. But so was today, starting with a nice cup of coffee and a kiss from the most wonderful woman in the world (and actually that came after a kiss from the most beautiful dog in the world).
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^^^
I have heard that drivel more times than I can count/barf!
:puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke:
Noal - where is that barf masterpiece you put together?
C'mon man - don't leave me hangin' - you're all I got left!
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Damn near died from heat stroke today
Damn near is for horseshoes and hand grenades - MAKE IT HAPPEN/DIE!
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Going out on Saturday it's gonna be.....
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Damn near is for horseshoes and hand grenades - MAKE IT HAPPEN/DIE!
Yeah, you just want me dead so you can nab my nine inch cam. I doubt you could get here fast enough.
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. I doubt you could get here fast enough.
That's cause you're getting buried with it. Wearing short shorts and holding the 9 incher.
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^^^
*** :lol: :lol: :lol:
Now see...everything is all better...just like a "normal" day around here and it didn't even take very many posts.
Don't you feel better?
I do - in between belly laughs.
Thanks for the assist.
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Thanks for the assist.
Okay...okay...give some credit where credit is due...
Brad actually multi-tasked by posturing for his fans while simultaneously setting me up for the kill shot. :thumbup: :biggrin: :ciappa:
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90 degrees today. Three parties on the Coastanoan. One party gets bonus points for Getting Smart. Goes to show
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Park gauge on the east side said 100 but you are a lot cooler than anyone else I know. Hope you found some shade and got on something fun.
Back to fence building this morning.
I'm on the power drill team.
We got the first stringer up Friday.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLW2akv7Ns4Msa17WrbdA5JBIXPLWqPrsgc8HYWcujuX6s-6GZ-EMRC7MrzHeAuQqI9LcR7IehjyGuYP_j7EIxVpOFeooesmNsP59_SOAgq_FqnPG-lEIPCSWqGbe9I_Ps_oIRGqgciFb9nDA3CU_Ge3=w811-h608-no?authuser=0)
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Got the 2nd line of stringers up in 2 hours.
The lower took us 3 hours on Friday but we made all the mistakes and worked out the sequence in those hours.
Once you get the sequence down it's fairly cruiser - kinda like aid climbing.
I thought the upper would be a bitch with ladders and such - then I laid back off the post, climbed up and stood on the wall and just worked from there while my partners worked from the uphill side. I had a string of pouches on my belt with all the hardware and the different drill guns slipped nicely into the top of the posts (now capped).
Got to work on my climbing muscles and drilling too.
All without ever leaving the comforts of home.
Must be what Gavin feels like.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLV8yJIeJ2mUgyBaZnS90_i9ccpx_5j4Fb6BzCBCp18MCRYz2rAbn591OHJR4Kyb5oWMmdhjwOhcwV-2N943fC-e31wUccrAGHJuyASb_Fy1A3OhRlvLIjOg8s-IQ37N_Rtkw6kHK0RM0_fH8vE32VR6=w456-h608-no?authuser=0)
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90F? ooooofa
Nice fence JC
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JC says 100. Met a party of three from China. They climbed Coastanoan. They ran out of water. I convinced them to wait in the shade until about 5pm and then hike out. Along the way I showed them all of the places to hide in the shade. When we go back to the parking lot o got them to drink ice cold miller lite. I was deemed "the real hero"
Fun day
Back out again this Saturday. Forecast says 90
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Making friends, and potential buyers when your comic book move is made! :)
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Sounds like an interesting day Noal.
Where did you get the ice cold Miller Lite?
Did they open a store on the west side?
Forecast for today is 96 and tomorrow is 93 according to the link Gavin provided me (puts the cursor right at Bear Gulch).
That 100 degree reading was from the park gauge.
Yesterday it read 105.
This time of year even the most precisely placed cursor typically yields a forecast temp that is 5 to 10 degrees too low.
But I don't have to tell you that - you are out there living the dream.
I helped get about half the fence boards up yesterday (we used all the old ones until we ran out).
Kat and I hauled materials up the slope to repair our two fences that have been failing for quite a while now.
I am hoping 5 new posts will shore it up until i am too old to care.
Got a pile of work to do - 1st 3 holes are dug...will try to get the posts set today...
Here is the line I am working on (holes are waiting for posts)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWZaNQCCxA1beCmIWzVTAzrfV7QDkDuGQdgPZluHCkJvwjP5qK9NzQmOgbIJuJygnBTkogcZo6ZqZWOV5V3_Qz1y9YPZtI-1a98bb5rxXLyQY9UaY7OiExTcz44nuyXKzMu6n9XUF9us_Vq3HNmVr74=w456-h608-no?authuser=0)
Piles of materials that beckon (concrete bags under the tarp to set the new metal posts)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEUWR2buVHGaN8fn9YCdOLbcVuPKV46bpAn3XxxldP4mzvwNwiHpCveUxfUkvhcA-uoZVySRZcxZ4FiyYG31Nj9KS2NtY1vYhstjOUTig_NNUWr-sgnTqPLOF1L6sArdowSFGQ9WrSW-pC1QP5zUkbJE=w811-h608-no?authuser=0)
and an updated version of the back (shared with two neighbors)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXC3ylyMYMpmLNvelQ5_iipeYuESZAPvPMM4TZpht-yXZKf-9OWvUm3LdE26W8Yfu_Tb7X6xLKrxoXqcwd4kVtJACuw0KPZNtKj7jQytJymLzRPDCl4LjB7xxx632_kp2SdLea3pDnXgyHLbHec2GCF=w456-h608-no?authuser=0)
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Where did you get the ice cold Miller Lite?
Did they open a store on the west side?
Bob Uecker was in the parking lot.
There is a store on the West Side but no cold drinks. I did buy a new nifty ball cap with a condor embroidered on the front and Pinnacles N.P. on the back.
The ranger Chris who mans the booth and sometimes the visitor center is super cool and I always enjoy chatting with him. Other cool things about the West Side visitor center ? Best place to take a dump. Super clean bathrooms. The bronze sculpture of the Condor is a must see too.
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With Noal it either needs to be one end or the other of the temps
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Hey, it's only gonna be 95 tomorrow!
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Yes - I was cracking up looking at the forecast and 95 is not listed as hot but 97 is.
Looks like it is really going to cook next week. :madmax:
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Two words:
Granite at 8,500 feet elevation. Much cooler. Not Pinnacles season yet.
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I can't come up there. It always starts burning when I do. :madmax:
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There might be ointment or even antibiotics for that.
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There might be ointment or even antibiotics for that.
Wow, dude, you rate.
Vicki herself laughed at your comment and then said: "well played."
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And damned if we haven't been unusually lucky with fire and with smoke this season.
So far.
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^^^
Jinx
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There might be ointment or even antibiotics for that.
Yep - you got me good.
Semantics and pedantic.
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Just started raining in the rain forest. Good luck starting a fire here. Lots of mud and green!
WAZE did announce that we were approaching Roadkill. It works amazingly well.
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Just started raining in the rain forest.
Glad to see your system is redundant.
Don't worry - Noal is razzing me while you're gone. :prrr: :ciappa:
If you go into the jungle (Chance Brothers) be careful not to bungle.
Maybe you can hire/rent a chimp or other simian while you are there.
Stay in after dark - I heard the Chupacabra lurks around there. :yikes:
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Somebody has to keep you in line. Is Kat back?
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Is Kat back?
Sent you a message.
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I sent you a video of the “Walking Turd”
Can you post it here?
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Two words:
Granite at 8,500 feet elevation. Much cooler. Not Pinnacles season yet.
We decided to go to Pinnacles anyway:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52284207653_5954670f71_b.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52284467334_9b5c4bca2d_b.jpg)
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Time for your bi-decade physical, have the doc look into those sensory issues.
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^^^
WHAT? GODDAMN, JUST LIKE VICKI YOU ARE MUMBLING AGAIN.
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I sent you a video of the “Walking Turd”
Can you post it here?
You should have laid down in their path and let them crawl over your face.
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We finally got back to the park after almost a year.
We met Noal there once in the last two years - a year ago (in another week) and went up to Book of Leon - so we didn't see anything but a little bit of Juniper Canyon.
Going up Juniper Canyon this trip, things seemed to be nearly the same but hiking out the Balconies trail was a real eye opener.
The creek along Juniper Canyon has continued to widen the trail in the lower reaches but nothing like what happened along the creek in the Balconies/Machete canyon. We went as far as Chockstone and I was amazed at the changes.
There is a nice "new" sign at the Balconies Cliff/Balconies Cave cutoff.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8B75LgaV7yvSzjjofo4DToFYl-qPRLjkUNxOiz9MuAvepaVYPIEE4muVncPKyARQjVdypUxnudCbNUSwuXQ00use89U118ZWjdfeaj1JOKv9dYqwmKcQ184saCbSxGRRYTjI3q7HUAjzxYBJWe-M_MO=w427-h624-s-no?authuser=0)
Just before the sign a huge tree fell over - across the creek and toward the Flumes SE Face.
It made a mess of the hillside that extends from the SE Face.
If it had reached a little further it would have blocked that approach ("missed it by THAT much").
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8BLlqxaRomZwc5_UR7MHQtJQoolu1OIWpKbh1e9VjBboiGqhHfTnijDOGzrb-GQ04huLiwRb3NCGOyZJQK939nqDO1RFrCIxkQMucG8ZIVQEOfoQy_ryqu5S4IF_2MVxBdQuskHiZhZfXsplcyGscys=w468-h624-s-no?authuser=0)
On the other side of the trail, it opened up the view to the base of Badman Mezzanine and the Lucky 13/Alias Bandit Bench anchor.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8BINYI9he-2otHD5nSo6KmjGTMFmYn7Gl67C3s9MKlwYrrLvjOG2YshoCtgInUGauqKk8kJtzpoBGNbYjc69uPwASMZMdu9ih8ny13pduVoHtoNjRQSJtzE7V_rID4aYpecgeX8Lv65jfbztBQ5xgRZ=w832-h624-s-no?authuser=0)
I was chuckling when we climbed Walk the Plank and that wild country booty draw was still on Flies on a Pile. That thing has been there since 2014 (I spotted it in July of that year).
I'm sure this is old hat to anyone that has been in the park in the last couple years (or since this year's deluge).
Just playing a little ketchup.
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Not Pinnacles, but my return from it this evening. Pretty happy to see me:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52688226765_65b4c98df1_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52688298338_172098b443_c.jpg)
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You have a puppy on your head.
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Yes, and she's in very rapid motion.
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Halifax looks like she is pouting in the first picture.
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nice pics
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They have a new water feature on the west side! Great for hot days :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8Bd0F1xbO4XOEVc5YO0dxlF9cVUdE47TahbgBr1OmqTy4P4pg4ein1d7kJXdyAGWPYsKo618aRk7hSNsXbnFuwWRkL7SNdynxHYAPVgcRHGQhMlH_gKhawvoIl_bOEaMXyT1tn_FuuNWfcm_NxkdU8b=w553-h608-s-no?authuser=0)
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This might need to be cross posted to the Historic thread but it was part of yesterday's quest so... I actually drilled some bolts! First time in over 2 years. Before anybody looks at it and thinks ("those bolts are too close") I want to mention that they are two bolt lengths apart (double what the bolt manufacturer recommends). The upper bolt is a half inch stainless sleeve bolt. You could haul a truck off that thing :thumbup: :biggrin: :arf:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8AwgBTnx_V-LV5QkeB5U8yTPBYrLGx3ZU91u2D8I6fMgLdsdXQpkSNE_ZydNx1i-2pNxW6B37JGBYi8_rl3bKH4_sR3oWRsRBcBdyBJzj2GSUiVahDJss0eSATA6YnLQLFl2IPae1BQKXMD1RuscwSD=w811-h608-s-no?authuser=0)
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Pictures to pass a little time on a rainy, cold and for some - a snowy day.
Looks like ReQuest denied for the WEAKend
Trying to avoid a spanking on Dominatrix...er... I mean Dominant Dome
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8DTphxA8mhSLjjrXlnn66_74G35Sr2vq_QVJ_AkIxrMp6rbL7aQgRH3L2WKOhb7hXZagnp3VIUKX0QhIv6JWy5a9tDjRT1VWcKCopxvTcLlqEh0TW1f58eIMVRYFBObfQ2FFPt3SVbXEjKu1zJkFhjI=w456-h608-s-no?authuser=0)
Kat descends from the rat-hole approach to Cave Pinnacle/Dominant Dome
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8ArAV6nOWp84tkflodH6yYongxglY7WjGUgAoGjjDr5U0z_NALMTyfCkwl11xwN9tGQsrsvDquo1ZwGZosQvVqZRQ1PT5-KH9kOMmzvh7VM56mb6wVhvYtc01YP7NSPO4U5wOYl4sGQKrxcfkgC4d3R=w811-h608-s-no?authuser=0)
My pinnhead showing through the glare at the summit of The Tyrant
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8AZEZfeMKEkQvhlunEmlU09RLWYg65ehkzUwAasiszLo9RaeSHaWwf2tHLzEotMiHWppRkvYjt2iX79sv0-Dzoa0FegePGnnXrYFFLNBOmw1ImDoe-76yl3JLTNK7khlfCzBmsvvBuRga91aRKkwKUO=w456-h608-s-no?authuser=0)
Redux shadows at the summit of The Tyrant
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8D1jotJe4g8wDnMtWWHAx-FWLUoj6rMiF51onvYRtnjGkF0TcDDxam2_e_Nt0H_8FQz4IF0mrphirTQGC8vfUmF8OGow0lkYRPmmhcgOFnrGjUKyZaZow6Dp0TD7xaxMUq0Oucqwp--rAjRMKCf-DKR=w456-h608-s-no?authuser=0)
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Haunting JC, getting practice in!
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Got out and had a good time this past weekend.
Did some fun new routes with Brad
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8DmiMJEPs0sAgF0OsYAh2FONybdHmtVUa_qobIabuIJeKPKXvZ7WJlOQPQvTlSuQwXS70mDx_bwGRCxczUdQHndlbVkHx7VhwmvhpcnyvXktjfbmpbYvh6errEK7KgCSsfxrnd6Vssqp_MCzMllS6VY=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
Climbed Colossus (really fun on good rock and an amazing summit for a 5.1 :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8CQtMPIO5mKSvU0V1VYhsweVNX7l_ISwr60G3-7a7lNWoM5iNGtyg-5csiKQcOq3rbIafxJCkjXHUTjSO4bUUcNvQ14L_ng9KaOn-TY6l4HnHaZh93chO0dPutkCwz7gd6TR8hc9ncrZZEc3oVguQPJ=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
Titan from the summit of Colossus
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8CpCS8HvukeiKLE08BsKzri4TrJWP_3TGBVIMAg40T4AtERf68eZWhPhurf92CtUG553CPNrA__Zw83edIRnAcoSHdQycmTz0n7p3zWuF4Ix9I6Pnnrqh6TyKE7nXEKQjE7j4l3qu6zyt77XLDlZ0ce=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
Met some nice people in the parking lot and noticed that this park sign/board needs some help.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8CmXR-LLz9i9ICtbGZsTjWmfpuEiZIFDMw8CswFtfwD6LpEuK4w0eQFiDM-nnL6bgyjzYm9Xl577qNuQ5Cc92FJeERcuFAWp2GrVKLzxfMwBzq4hkjIECWZu8jih7Ccrqeu1QOR47lDMVWh70XRIc1q=w833-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
Enjoyed some wildflowers along our adventure path
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8BP0k9oqz8FM42qeZSFWiZBorCkPb5rHcPrCCCat40--DVuDgeCyFTlY-uTvqYsu3X1s-k2PU29hyYlXwH3A-52r4yaT1s3R4QP1sbjdrd31cCrzkLzDX4Gy92Mao37JHj2uy_khP_exHC-suPW_IpW=w833-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
Jubilation Pinnacle dwarfed by Pink Giant
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8CWn0J1G3t354Ieey2L1OjjLfRM9vyFvsXmzH6lGsi9p3K4y4JgBWIf1qZ5acQ8AeZAodqH6xCkhwkk9fNcrdY5JR6yR-uJ52ZIc74v1m65B2iJCyJS2BywSV-g0VruBJMgx2AFFLkKCO9PqF_Zlfm_=w833-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
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Photos of wildflowers are so disappointing compared to seeing them. There were so many, many flowers there. And the bright purple!
None of it shows in shots like these.
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^
Yes - but it's a good picture of Kat. :thumbup: :ihih:
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Climbed Titan yesterday. This is the uphill side. The camera's foreshortening in awful.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8DGjS6H567-Kb5K20fLEuP73lvcUojnp0UCyQ7oqDKpbmHvKOIrbdJo9SffLzBd3pTmxWVs31NDg1X8-G7NhBPtg-F_qGOyaHKH0tq6mCW5XiSuzmVk4KoNANlt0iXyDc7iCndCZJglAQkc_ZmbibMF=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
This is what it looks like from the downhill side (from Colossus) and it drops probably close to another 100 feet on the right.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8CpCS8HvukeiKLE08BsKzri4TrJWP_3TGBVIMAg40T4AtERf68eZWhPhurf92CtUG553CPNrA__Zw83edIRnAcoSHdQycmTz0n7p3zWuF4Ix9I6Pnnrqh6TyKE7nXEKQjE7j4l3qu6zyt77XLDlZ0ce=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
A bit scrappy but fun and most of the rock is good. Already past/over the awkward bulge.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8BqTVQqGlKbFdcKwB9G-crl1X41v0Tdv8FBS-BoE8IYu0xgaiQ_eymxUE_k6NsCUlIVkX_F5mK_cnuYZTK9hmVIICbiht7JQECL5aj0fWLmcFgR-7jePROYBKUzG15ucLuwRhmGvw9atNO1kC0MiGEp=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
Colossus upper slab from Titan's summit (that grassy meadow is a great hang)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8BlgYtys37nAOhsmpgmQOQvkKtNAFBpDNvAhLbBK_iZf6cWEVik1FHV6Erj6SADJg8tyg_4-aucrUWjT_Xz04036CNSzhiRe917C197U7LRzpEDkxutbqYPaGUHpadjMi7Qk8SuSJYHcgPBBaM2riK-=w833-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
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Good you’re back to mudding! Wear a mask so you don’t infect me again.
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Went out this past weekend with Noal and Brad. They finished 2 new routes and we got to climb the 2-pitch 5.5. No good pics but certainly valid.
Today we hiked up into the High Peaks and climbed First Run on Illicit Chimney Dome
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8A1IKRfpvAFRDDkeXypy1oJqHzM9ajeIKoSyQKu3UBBZ4O3zU2TtZNKK9nHc8T--WIAxq-5aQweCLRlCYH_xs1RkxGOxSuju_K4UX_aZIq32kMuu4xsl9AKbz9rVQToayn7PlWBVPM-01vU9hL6P8QD=w456-h608-s-no?authuser=0)
Got a good location shot on the way up.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8A34hbX7wTe-rPPGsIP7hRP_YvjUFya0TT4L7Ny84bBVsI8t69GzNA1e280TAdJIKTAonJNiJ3qxLx1ReIwqN80KmG6PUX7nskZUfFAM75Y15_7lC_nu6By8bBTcxWFhsh8HUTEYhalOJEcULVNqYTv=w818-h608-s-no?authuser=0)
No rain in the forecast but it drizzled and rained lightly on us after we finished climbing.
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Is the moss robuster than usual?
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Which 2 pitch 5.5 is that?
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^
Sorry Russ - I shouldn't post about as of yet non public routes.
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No worries, I’m just heading down for a day out soon and that sounded pretty cool.
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Also, not trying to be lazy I just don’t have access to the guidebook right now. Is there anything else near Wind Willow Rock that has easy/moderate routes. Have been wanting to check out Wind Willow areas but only have a day so want to pack in as much as possible.
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^
Sorry Russ - I shouldn't post about as of yet non public routes.
It is public. Both of the new routes to the left of Eye Candy are public. Both are in the last new routes thread, the one that is still stuck on page seven until Aaron helps me.
The 5.5 is called Ostrich Size and the 5.9 is Twist and Shout.
I got a phone call as I was posting them and neglected to put up an announcement post that they'd been added.
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Also, not trying to be lazy I just don’t have access to the guidebook right now. Is there anything else near Wind Willow Rock that has easy/moderate routes. Have been wanting to check out Wind Willow areas but only have a day so want to pack in as much as possible.
No, nothing anywhere near. You'll have to hike back to Old Pinnacles trailhead and drive to another East Side Location. Or continue another mile and half on Old Pinnacles Trail to the West Side.
It's a pretty cool location though and, in my opinion, worth a whole day.
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Thanks Brad
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Are both those 5.10 routes able to be top roped?
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Are both those 5.10 routes able to be top roped?
What 5.10 routes are you referencing??
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What 5.10 routes are you referencing??
Oh yeah, duh. It just occurred to me while I was outside working. The 5.10s at Wind Willow Rock?
The 5.10c is easy to toprope. It's right below a two-bolt anchor it shares with the leftmost 5.7.
The 5.10a would be tough to toprope. It moves sideways enough - especially through the crux - that it would need gear and bolt directionals to avoid a big swing on toprope.
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We met some people on the trail near Spike's Peak last Friday and they had taken some pics of us climbing Illicit Chimney Dome from Condor Gulch trail. While I was leading, there was a curious juvenile condor flying around the dome and we heard it land but didn't realize how close it was. Sneaky little devil...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaUW7wk7P1xHnzF-5nuvtZZKOEJxUjdu2vcjq0l24wNSX4tPrdEzkkc_lEEJAt1WBBCWslLl-nY9CPjaY_uO8gHeMkPRRVZp6BnV6o68czx4ygOjwKcxuKtqypFLu0bmFe9AWiGiYPv0vEeuFVeaAKUa=w1113-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
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92?
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64
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The bird is not that smart.
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I wasn't able to see the number clear enough to say but it came over the pinnacle at least once while I was getting started and it landed before I got to the top. It wasn't one I've seen before (number? or tag color) and I'm pretty sure it was a juvenile - smallish and didn't look as much like (name omitted to keep me out of hot water) as most of the birds.
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That bird must have been really disappointed when it realized that you were not a bag of Cheetos.
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That bird must have been really disappointed when it realized that you were not a bag of Cheetos.
That's funny dude. You may have missed your calling.
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Got out again this weekend to share time with friends and climb a few new routes.
Friday we went up with Brad to check out Marco's new route Poppi's Poppies 5.7*
Hats off to Marco for creating a fine edition to the area rope solo. Nice job dude. :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
It is a fun route with ample protection, good rock, fun movement, a few nice surprises and nice length (about 90 feet).
It is also closer to parking than almost any route up the Juniper Canyon Trail.
It's shady early.
Here's a butt shot of me leading below the crux
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaUfaHY88zCPB-FR4PgYFpEqCo4S73HBLvK4ObhFpjDPI7Wcr-YGUUkTwx5i6E6ZOM7BApHDhPERRm-aaFm09E-6szi2TEOHCaDdQccWwqpm0JMvjAGFiOjHtDO0ctCAPpYMagdqVRdLvCD6ohkWryX7=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
At a nice stance (well above the crux) and comfortable enough for a snap of my trusty partner
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaVB6I8Mt7t4X8onIfBjhfh2xRRWvnagRgqB3OiTl0pKC9YvqjT4ZxHv68xvs02l7YzgN6dBYTiOZRrwDXtHS9DdDW6PbAnpnjBMce1ETOXCtR-PE9XUX9gI1-QCfYklI9xDCEoiQild8-bv2oxNcyZk=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
Walking back out through the poppies
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaVXUQX9LEnqvNqj5UGtSfL9UQf92a3XWR1bABLBDIQOltwVEmlPJP68R3EO3bcip0Vs2cBESXnelBHAtkiNcqrlS6msyhwP0515-2EfQ2D9eBkERLxBq_Fd6L3RLUkFv06ClSBwbU4oLY_-O8r07tgE=w833-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
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Here is a location/photo topo for some of the new routes. The path up Dominant Dome climbing is shown in yellow (partially obscured by trees) and the big black arrow points to the higher of the two summits (which is climbed from the backside). Dominant Dome's two-bolt rappel anchor is shown near the base of the smaller summit tower as one X to avoid overcrowding. Poppi's Poppies is shown in blue. Other formations are labeled for reference.
The Tyrant can now be approached via Dominant Dome or Poppi's Poppies
The picture was taken from the Pink Giant approach trail - fairly near the start of that route.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaWcW-YlYkp1rdLH382Kv-EG8lTpeSztTo1G789le0orG6lHDGuIHlEJRTHasSNizukdDp5F6g0xZrT0kW1Hpc_N2Ot9Ssc3y-7PQcunecvETRSE6noXRWMX3yWiQ0b0m8a_jtYxM8M8DCegceI0sy4q=w681-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
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Brad and I started a couple new lines (1 bolt each) to conclude the climbing activities on Friday.
I got one decent pic of him drilling.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaWnAAivNQzJqX4-ymVd8R7o7LPZlojJrK_n0yLvboWCabnrveaSb1-_Oj9-ug1OgllojaPZH_BwnYYkBIiMlwumjlj_UUDYuznx2oQm4xY60RgAtDp3ijdWyXVV3WuuypWFuQWt2Fmxsni8eSKtGu9g=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
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Saturday we had a sizable meetup at parking and then parted ways to pursue three separate missions.
Our mission almost went bust when I got to the Bandit Boulders and confirmed they were indeed Cook-proof without some major shenanigans and tomfoolery to avoid the jungle of Poison Oak that guards them. I wasn't in the mood. We backtracked and went to Potluck Panic for a surprisingly wild time. For a short climb that route is pretty heady and a bit gymnastic. It starts with stemming to a muscle up to a ride-em-cowboy ridge (Brad says Dave Harden calls the latter part an Alley Oop). Stand up and the highly exposed and very skinny arete is IN YOUR FACE. Clamber up that to a very strangely shaped summit and don't say a word to your partner while you're setting up the belay (wouldn't want to spoil their fun now would we?).
Kat pulled the moves off like a champ, channeling her inner Jenn along the way. I was very proud of her and made sure she knew it. After she did the Alley Oop, I told her to think Heaven's Gate but shorter and easier. Neither of us took any pics (we had our hands full) - except for one of Kat rapping off.
We spent a lot of time Saturday acting as volunteers in the parking lot and on the trails. We gave guidance to and chatted with a wide variety and number of hikers and climbers. I even got to shout down a drone pilot at the start of the hike. We were on the switchbacks to Tilting Terrace and the pilot was at the Osiris pullout. He brought the craft down immediately and the adults with him apologized. I'm not sure they realized it but they had a falcon in a tizzy. If only I had a badge and a citation pad.
I was pleased to see a party on Upper Flumes.
There was tat on The Big Bad West anchor and an abandoned bouldering pad at Split Boulders.
It was a fun day.
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Kat pulled the moves off like a champ, channeling her inner Jenn along the way....
Well maybe Jenn (BAP) will see this and explain. Seems unlikely, she's been way busy lately. But some explanation for those who aren't "in the know?" Really, honestly, I do try to keep her in mind when looking for bolt positions.
And Alley Oop! Anyone on here that understands the reference and is younger than 55 will be my hero.
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Hats off to Marco for creating a fine edition to the area rope solo. Nice job dude. :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:
Thanks Cooks! I was thrilled to hear that you liked it.
Also thanks to JC & KC, Poppi's Poppies has a set of chains about 20 feet below the walk off anchor. The new length is about 75 ft - 7 lead bolts.
Thank you for the chain and quicklinks!
Additionally here is a picture I liked putting in the 4th* bolt. (I think 4th)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52823917923_98fc7de516_c.jpg)
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^
Your Poppi would be proud of you buddy.
I used to be okay with a single sling knob for drilling until I took a bad tumble.
You probably weren't hanging on that one though.
The best single hang ever was drilling the crux bolt on Mud Diamond. There was a funny story to go with it too (waaaay back in this thread).
clink seriously needs to get back in the fold (we miss you dude) :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: 8)
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Nice hanging out at your house for a few.
Poppycock has gotta be the next route.
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Here is a better picture of Poppi's Poppies.
Marco never got the chance to lead it with a belayer (since he did it rope solo) so I was happy to oblige.
He was so comfortable on it he was talking with us the whole way up - including through the crux (pictured).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaWL_MwyVbCYi5lIkcAZFvKJdu0xx39U0dPiNqNoq4YYuz_8Ydg1pgxVoras4W3zDwUPOg7K-qcPLqE5M0bEZUNCZvvDnBzg_FbwWZA00-ai_TGmFhBOXqbGsWFksTzQi3gwO47qzlwBZOJOY_-zWsbZ=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
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That location shot and the one of Marco leading were taken on Sunday.
On Sunday Kat and I headed up to Pink Giant to climb Little Pink Giant and the Secondary Summit.
Little Pink Giant is scrappy and is easier than it looks from the base. After moving up the initial loose lump of rock you'll be happy to clip bolt 1. Now grovel up an awkward, exposed ramp past a little tree. Stand up at the top of the ramp and clip the second bolt (pictured). Easy terrain leads to the summit.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaXt-CoRlJ_30_QI76m52m-Uqd2MjlOAwd8LCUnyTu-XwLj6ajhja5uSkLLNDmNo9DTfN36nkbnGjIyE0xSLqpP01R9kEAd4N34vp8mgaLFXH6iA9MbbCDglBhv00qpKJHCQVhsHxUiqb-8ddRd7-8EJ=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
I looked at Little Pink Giant (no bolts yet) and the Secondary Summit the day Brad and Marco were working on Pink Giant - but I was still feeling pretty "green" at that point. I wasn't sure how I would feel about the Secondary Summit after Brad told me about climbing it with waldo. I couldn't resist another look. After another look I said "that doesn't look so bad". I'm still not sure how to rate it. Brad asked me if I thought it was 5.1 and I didn't have an answer. It's shenanigans for sure. Step down carefully into the maw and find something solid to hang onto while you contemplate the step across. Once across, it's a walk up the slot to some easy chimneying - followed by scrambling to the summit. The return trip was more exciting.
On the Secondary Summit.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaV4I_On9JklTgkNynjY0wH2200yAhBvgEuT-S0nLIlebPxM-U9GqJpftTZYEaqXQCtdzl9W6z7T1DKqjX_8wzWV-T_lJIvkJ99zjahZMisR0CuCJzI9l5o-Tb1dhP2jGpO0i2PYEi_hY5GDE3PGqSpB=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
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Went out yesterday and made our way up to The Tidbits. We clawed our way up La Ultima and then I climbed up and down Last But Not Least. Someone leading at the grade is going to have their hands full leading La Ultima (the rock quality is poor). Unfortunate, since it looks pretty good from the ground. I’m pretty sure it’s getting to bolt 4 that has a run uncharacteristic of the rest of the route (well protected) – leader lured by an easier drill stance higher (been there, done that, got the t-shirt). That bolt is also in a hole so it is hard to see from below. Moving around the bulge is awkward and scrappy. There was no pretty way to do it and I nearly scraped my tidbits.
Contemplating the unknown on La Ultima (can't see the bolt and rock quality is dubious). Terrible foreshortening in the photo.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaWHNFLKa5lx5VB9X4qlDWLduaJ1-TVczBk_1M0wFeMQC50_t00-ob4q0lE_hiqWlSiOjrpEEOOEitR36j9Jj_nMgJkUXF-YL4s-ev9uDBj1lK9fpl1dUWUToG8_D2a6L3kfoFSlKLrrNH4A3jHanjZ7=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
I didn’t get any worthwhile shots of Kat on the follow but I liked this one of her rapping down
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaVm4ZcHV53qif667skFbcS3YwBmGEmM0zo1Ouig_QjJtvdBOBkc-3vU-2nB8RlCcdwWCWER5syrhj1tIduoSvcHbpqtdscj6IOd2eKMMwUc3XrNIxpsUouw5K4cQnxXkA5q261d0_f47703a1WU5A9f=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
We took a snack break in the sun and then I climbed Last But Not Least
Kat got a nice shot of me standing on the summit. I roped up in case there were any good slings knobs (there weren’t)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaVgo-mwMM700JglWoi16N_6_75WONz7MdBiziZ5PHbU6FFcK9Vq01G7_EzjEMQ09m_xYwijFJ26b5AMtQEiDFtjBTbiI1JVCAV16j2-6RydhlUw79dcIxNc7pYHZAw16KmxFBJbZ7r1cn2hVlYD3HvQ=w833-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
Looking back at La Ultima (left) and Last But Not Least (right). The downhill side of Last But Not Least is really tall! The climbing on that one is pretty fun and the rock is good.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaUWb4ASNRKDgHFkrO6zlRgGDk9k4X9RoxEDv96Usk_E6k-Gsl5ZQeSnq2lko4FdjSaVMD7S63WiOnq30NM-xVasPs945uQ5N3GKteG_omtR4kI2pSii21ZYeLrBiW3NnvRl6wsYwpfSo0H6SZknkkSu=w833-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
I got a couple nice shots from the approach when we crested the ridge. The light seemed just right and the vantage was different from any other I have seen.
Machete’s south face looked inviting
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaUSmeooQkfYlkJ60ZjwMzCYCJNLN5W7NCvGaEuhjhfXa9bHK642E0ZqsxqK5j10j6HwMs4JPkjYYfyjn8HdjJOi6_0Lvt-Clczbu9yFGkR1pTtL88uSvQsxpFKG4_PcN4aWmeQ3_fr6Bjl4VxAIkiSq=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
The boulder atop the Citadel looked like Tricky Dick Nixon
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaVQzoJB2evu6lfqwM3dXUmQTVPNUnamPVi2oLbN4WIOUptpO2c23yycnKZPkgZknYcFLTNsGbJhMGNMpuuH55J3RSnlqXRQrfCnnZPtZQe1XzbjmGYOURm2IzNFrREoZ6UY2s67NpxHoo52c7sYIXCh=w833-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
One of the things I have always loved about Pinnacles is the way things appear/come into view from different vantage points.
The streak on Resurrection Wall has never looked so well-defined to me (after over a decade of looking at it)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaVfS2Jz1Aw-DZrn-8CaWf_JTe9NPv-NrgQcvY6rAnTKGFjUWxFVMFz8LpxB5hA6JZ-ncVlRQVqNFeI1rRFDjTzWa0N0xyWJKks9JKgQ6dE8cDjU8UYlI57g7PTyHr7G4x_mJ3XJN_y6PliJtOfeki0r=w1098-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
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It's a fee free day and a Saturday.
I bet the park will be bustling.
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Bet it'd be bustling anyway. It's that time of year.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52836626482_c5dd313803_c.jpg)
Saw a bird or something yesterday. I guess this place is kinda cool.
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Saw a bird or something yesterday. I guess this place is kinda cool.
Meh. Chickens and choss piles. ;D
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Meh. Chickens and choss piles. ;D
I agree! If it wasn't for the sport bolting on all the obvious classic lines I probably wouldn't come here.
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I wish I could be a budding 5.6 climber :ciappa:
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I wish I could be a budding 5.6 climber :ciappa:
Keep in mind that "budding" means heading toward or moving in the direction of. As in moving in the direction of being a 5.6 climber.
And sorry to point out the obvious: you are "a budding 5.6 climber" in that sense. I'm heading back in that direction too. It's only a matter of time.
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^
Then we'll just go with the old adage - Careful What You Wish For
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Does the “budding” refer to nose and ear hair?
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Nice photos all!
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It's just a spring clean for the May Queen.
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That tree sprouting out of the ramp on Little Pink looks somehow familiar.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52841238056_681f5e6093_c.jpg)
One time in boy scouts I stepped on a snake hiking so now I always look down when I hike. Do you see it?
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Just saw this on IG. I have never seen one of these! Plenty of rattlesnakes but not one of those. Super cool!
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52841428969_cdee83c9b1_c.jpg)
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We've always thought they were good luck (the girls and I). We see at least one on most of our southern California backpacking trips (like the Sisquoc loop trip we did in 2012 (similar photo near the end of the report on page 2):
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=1582.0
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^
I've never seen one of those lizards and probably wouldn't with my vision. That camo is amazing.
We spent the day out in the canyon yesterday and I drilled some bolts and did a little climbing.
Kat got a shot of a juvenile condor on top of Jubilation Pinnacle. There were two adults too (they all landed in a nearby meadow).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaWGqnM29e1ktKMhN3hYAfHjTyCa_DG-9Yq3S3yP4z8o2FCO3mu6-EzV2w5QIV_AWBWLM8l0EBTgst6aBQNTgnIcY7cFHR6-vd4cDYcX4AzmY3wRryVIK-3byZicZrqvc4_TW7YbmDrG_WHYe2gDiReq=w833-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
There was a growth spurt in the park the last 10 days. I swear the grasses were 6 inches higher and PO that had been sprigs was in full leaf and looking juicy.
The creek is dry now and the logs at the former crossing look out of place. Things are feeling more "normal" now and temps are expected to soar into the 90's this week.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaUfLZU0GNJsGMJ6oRA9rKuwXqjfdRRLMGqw4GtBBFvq1HNHiFfzxFuEhNCX_V-LtergVv16l72c-qEbSHS26BYNKlgPmep9-JvR3DVbmCkD6tGxLqGzMn825GbcL-3-i462rrzzqx1Csngsdezj2weK=w833-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
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Part of today's quest brought up pictures of The Clipper, the chockstone in the corridor leading to the west side caves and Don Genaro's slab.
https://www.usgs.gov/geology-and-ecology-of-national-parks/pinnacles-national-park
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Those aren't very good quality photos. Gavin could do better in his sleep.
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I vote for changing the park name to Eroded Igneous Monument
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^^^
Glad sometimes that you don't get a vote.
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Those aren't very good quality photos. Gavin could do better in his sleep.
I was cracking up when I realized it was The Clipper - of all the things they could have picked to photograph.
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What first ascent at Pinnacles would be best associated with this quote “One giant leap for a man. A man that is kind of insane."?
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What first ascent at Pinnacles would be best associated with this quote “One giant leap for a man. A man that is kind of insane."?
Maniac's Delight
Fungusamongus
Northern Lights
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Northern Lights
I was so out of my element on this one I pitched it out. I cant imagine doing this one with no bolts.
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^
I'll never forget that jump.
We'll have to talk about the experience next time we see you.
I remember after the jump and establishing the "belay" on shit gear I yelled back to Kat "KAT...DON"T FOLLOW THIS"
What poor soul followed you? clink's number was up that day.
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I was so out of my element on this one I pitched it out. I cant imagine doing this one with no bolts.
I'll never forget that jump.
Noal can post the video but...The lunatic is in my head (Hahahahahahaha! Hehehehehehehe!)
The lunatic is in my head
You raise the blade
You make the change
You rearrange me till I'm sane
You lock the door
And throw away the key
And there's someone in my head, but it's not me
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^
Just breathe and it will be okay...
...and don't forget your bolt bag.
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Just breathe and it will be okay...
Except that this may be airborne spread lunacy. Unless Mud and Brad had to give the other mouth to mouth, while one was unconscious of course(I can't imagine anything consensual occurring, but I am not judging regardless)
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Having a jump across route in your FA resume is truly a feather in the cap.
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Having a jump across route in your FA resume is truly a feather in the cap.
I agree but would still recommend doubling up on the wrist and ankle restraints if they are ever needed.
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I'd say it's more like having a screw loose in your noggin'
One wheel shy of normal
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Well there is cell service at Disco wall.
-4g I think.
We crushed it today at the upper crust!
Got in a total of 9 routes.
Did not see mudworm 🥲
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Wishy washy weather today. No rain in the forecast but the road was partially wet on the way in and we had light sprinkles (barely more than a drizzle) for a lot of the day. Almost no sunshine - boo!
Didn't keep us from our quest though.
Made a couple new routes official and worked on a couple others. I invited Natalie to drill part of an anchor bolt and then later she drilled her first bolt from start to finish (in aiders no less) and the work quality was top notch.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaX42S8sCqpYBnaJ8urF6Du4Hcz6d6l6BOU_AM5tqlqf5y3zxfaNW_VFpje9pHT2Qdncl2OHgzfe-Gixjts4HXyWPlUoG5DDtrmG6mkRmcJm76JyvE8mlNa3XfeM8_RudO_AmmGoIMksQrd8_sDCb8Y_=w441-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
Joel drilled hanging on a hook for the first time.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaWc5e2trg_ETC1ktKV8vZ1vrSs8EMz_OoFJAnK7tB30GyJeSHZYZF3A9bDfUwsveCukoGsuS1vfSk1ZJA_KJTqC4xI7JV4fckDxWelTjgeWu1HXwWxqbi4yqcLCloOwcSUWOCvtspKf0wyE7K5k5N4Y=w557-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaVfZ-B3YlLJx0B5zWC8CVqHOM718EgOw8lbsak2SLw2ja1S4Y9U09dGlAw5qdXf-l3c3qvqARPbBGd0kJCGR0U8mf1KCGr8iUYVNeGKEVgDAZNZFiwiHSyP_ji7qp6hYefGn4UO7jVTVCWO_d7nApdl=w833-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
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The aiders were shockingly straightforward, given that I haven't used them before. Finding the right height relative to the hole was most of the trick. Certainly not the best weather I've had in the park, but a good day none the less.
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We muddled through another wet, chilly day yesterday.
Marco and Samir were working on a new route so Kat and I did a little exploring.
We found what we were looking for but it was all dripping wet.
I know some of the mudsters will be thinking - so?
Still really not my cup of tea.
Later in the day I couldn't leave without climbing something - so I got on Marco's new route Laura's Lane 5.8*
Dampness be damned (Damp the Tidbits and Full Steam ahead).
It worked out okay and the route was fun.
Me leading while Marco works from a hooked stance (nice job on that one Marco)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaV7OqMrqYvg4N1n1iYFDZuGCSxi9-DQh-4t9okvAhY5Zc9ZnNYARbwm7Wkk4T5A8VJNGGpBbOW0ZRspFbdAT1EGsbd_r4dLuVa69GbXoiAqZbR9aXA0v6re4R2Cb84H4FEm0lblUranOLBNQSF3ZFT2=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
From the belay - me "Hey Marco"....Marco "What?"
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaX-PR_45BsmMwiPhT-9b8DHKxLJ2Uf084Lo_JiWioCqh2bKn_HiFnch3rVBQWmtGGA33RjFnpP61VcM2Kf6xrpcdGgIphuOKO2X_mMCDMwxna_B9cDv_hcmmuWYivN-eQh8ng0_Rm5D_iGudGB-K5Sh=w967-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
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"Hey Marco"....Marco "What?"
This is my reaction to any encounter.
I had a blast hanging out with JC & KC at the tidbits yesterday.
It was fun doing those routes. I hope to hear what other people think.
Here is a picture of JC at the top belaying KC.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52875705752_7156559e5e_c.jpg)
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52876441119_91529f9c32_b.jpg)
Additionally here is a picture of Brad getting a rope over Wart.
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Bet no one can guess what's going on there. Looks like the rope is attacking Brad. Great photo!
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That picture is amazing! XD
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Guidebook cover quality!
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Best rope toss pic I have
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaWcPStiazk3YOcgVtMyKu94WKxhp0rCxwk4pP645bLU-FPPTIxhdX9QaPw-ryCXRsAx19AW18gh7IXpkodvAo2iPAKLyuYTzCgxGM_YCHg8xCcYU8fKBIvEXNZzsWR8OdAKhRh1F0Y9Y9dpuPWj2nkN=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
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He's whipping the rope hoping the chalk bag with rock in it might fall off the other side. It took about a dozen tries of throwing the chalk bag over and in the process totally trashed Shane's new chalk bag.
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He's whipping the rope hoping the chalk bag with rock in it might fall off the other side. It took about a dozen tries and in the process totally trashed Shane's new chalk bag.
And somehow trashing HIS chalkbag didn't bother any of the others of us much ;D ;)
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Nylon string around a rock might work.
Did you hold services for the chalk bag?
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No services. But we left the large rock that we'd placed in the bag sitting in the open. Totally coated with chalk and no-where near any climbing. A mystery for anyone that gets out there in the next while (sooo unlikely thought)?
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Did anyone check out Nip and Tuck? I couldn't figure it out or commit to the ledge fall potential (bolt is too low and was obviously aided and added by someone after the FA).
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Did anyone check out Nip and Tuck? I couldn't figure it out or commit to the ledge fall potential (bolt is too low and was obviously aided and added by someone after the FA).
Two leads and two follows. Bolt worked if clipped with one locker. Consensus is that it is 5.9 now; the change has been made in the new book.
("Bolt worked" in that it provided a high likelihood of preventing a ledge-fall; would work best if the belayer is heavier than the leader.)
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Two leads and two follows. Bolt worked if clipped with one locker. Consensus is that it is 5.9 now; the change has been made in the new book.
("Bolt worked" in that it provided a high likelihood of preventing a ledge-fall; would work best if the belayer is heavier than the leader.)
I did clip it with a single locker but that one small hold over the lip (long reach) definitely didn't feel 5.8.
I had to hang and still couldn't figure it out - maybe just hesitated too much and got pumped. I wrote in my log that it felt harder than the Old Route 5.9 near Gertie's.
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I did clip it with a single locker but that one small hold over the lip (long reach) definitely didn't feel 5.8.
I had to hang and still couldn't figure it out - maybe just hesitated too much and got pumped. I wrote in my log that it felt harder than the Old Route 5.9 near Gertie's.
Semi-side-pull hands, right foot smeared up on not-much, and left foot up and over onto the summit slab. Rock over on to the left foot.
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Semi-side-pull hands, right foot smeared up on not-much, and left foot up and over onto the summit slab. Rock over on to the left foot.
I probably only had one hand up there when I should have been matching.
Thanks for the play by play. I'll get one of those around the neck harmonica holders and put a post-it on it for my next summit attempt!
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And somehow trashing HIS chalkbag didn't bother any of the others of us much ;D ;)
To be fair, it didn't bother him much either. ;D
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To be fair, it didn't bother him much either. ;D
Shane - How was that climb up Hidden Pinnacle? Did you sling any branches on the tree? It looked like you got up there fast.
That tree looks like it is on its last leg.
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Shane - How was that climb up Hidden Pinnacle? Did you sling any branches on the tree? It looked like you got up there fast.
That tree looks like it is on its last leg.
Limb 1 is too thick to girth hitch with a 60cm and needs a 120cm, limb 2 can be wrapped with a 60cm, from there you can get to the bolts. Hardest move is off the ground. I was pretty tickled to climb it. It was just my blend of fun and preposterous. Especially since I don't know if that tree will still be solid or even standing next time I'm out that way.
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...it looked like you got up there fast.
Pretty fast, but I took five other photos between the ones I posted.
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Limb 1 is too thick to girth hitch with a 60cm and needs a 120cm, limb 2 can be wrapped with a 60cm, from there you can get to the bolts. Hardest move is off the ground. I was pretty tickled to climb it. It was just my blend of fun and preposterous. Especially since I don't know if that tree will still be solid or even standing next time I'm out that way.
Thanks for that.
Tick Tock...
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Semi-side-pull hands, right foot smeared up on not-much, and left foot up and over onto the summit slab. Rock over on to the left foot.
Being short and weak, I was unable to make this work. But being a bit hypermobile, I figured out the following: left hand on that one small hold over the lip (long reach), right hand on the not-much that Brad suggests smearing up on, left foot on another not-much roughly below that one small hold. Pull with left hand, push with right hand and step right foot onto a very good ~2in lodestone (see Brad, I'm learning) about the same height as not-much and some 2ft to the right of it. Stand up on that, readjust and then basically execute Brad's beta.
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Additionally here is a picture of Brad getting a rope over Wart.
Here's another :)
(https://bit.ly/bradropetoss)
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^
Hi Czech it out and welcome to the forum.
The pictures aren't displaying and looking at the code string I see that it is too long (I address this in my instructions below).
The instructions are in the Information Desk section of the forum (link below) if you'd like to try to correct it.
I had this same problem when I first started using google photos to post. The photo will show to you but no one else can see it.
I wrote the instructions to try and help people.
Let me know if you have questions about my instructions and hope this provides some help.
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=2941.0
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We got out to do The Flying None yesterday.
Those first two pitches are money. Great rock and exposure plus fun climbing. Thanks to Brad and all the others for the hard work.
I took way too much gear. I only used a #1 (slammer) and a #2 (good). I put in the #5 too (just to get it off my harness) - the placement is 2 or 3 feet below a bolt. I made sure Kat was on the far right side of the anchor below the start of pitch 3.
No good pics really but here's a few anyway.
Getting in a second piece on the start
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaWkCDPdfhAEoukyANBcbbiUROW7YfDQMTLnojUY8TiVG2uESbZ1JXaB7h7Qd48MRX7uh55qESn7d6Q3MoRUWSyZLn1PF7fT4bJmHQy4HN7Uf7EU3Hns20-6kZTCgRDSO0cCrFh-S20UxZPF3-SX4vik=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
Kat's view before following pitch 2
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaW4G919ZTCt5Jf2ZWdQhh4k25nISF2S2GcU3whBkSkkDsCzbr1P9rAzhjF-Hz1KPL6Z0r0e0oRTTybqy31TaltsWTkzk3XtkNlU7Hmhfv1QWWg4xIvSWLeYBxehBiv20daRjY3Tb4kEn82mPmKkUGgI=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
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I can see the photo on my phone. It's a good one of Brad!
John you REALLY need to get with the 20th Century and get a smart phone. :lol:
Welcome Czech It Out!
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^
Kat couldn't see it on her computer either.
I edited my post upthread.
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You have to look at it on your phone. Nobody uses those big Ole clunky computers anymore. Sheesh.
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Being short and weak, I was unable to make this work. But being a bit hypermobile, I figured out the following: left hand on that one small hold over the lip (long reach), right hand on the not-much that Brad suggests smearing up on, left foot on another not-much roughly below that one small hold. Pull with left hand, push with right hand and step right foot onto a very good ~2in lodestone (see Brad, I'm learning) about the same height as not-much and some 2ft to the right of it. Stand up on that, readjust and then basically execute Brad's beta.
Or, if you have the hips of a geriatric german shepherd like me, this is better beta for a ferocious butt cramp than for pulling the lip. ;D
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^^^
Your wording has me wondering if there is a non-ferocious butt cramp?
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In my experience butt cramps that occur when hanging in a harness are notably more ferocious than earthbound butt cramps.
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In my experience butt cramps that occur when hanging in a harness are notably more ferocious than earthbound butt cramps.
You sound like a real connoisseur?
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I can see the photo on my phone. It's a good one of Brad!
John you REALLY need to get with the 20th Century and get a smart phone. :lol:
Welcome Czech It Out!
I just pulled up the post on my smart phone and I can't see the picture.
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You sound like a real connoisseur?
Unfortunately yes.
Also unfortunately, I can not see Czech's pic on my phone or desktop.
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Ok I will describe it to you. It is a photo of Brad jumping to throw the rope caught mid air. Dang good photo!
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Let me know if you have questions about my instructions and hope this provides some help.
Thanks a lot for the heads up and the instructions!
Out of curiosity, I tried using bitly to shorten the image URL (a little bit less work than the album / photo sharing) and now I'm wondering if it solves the problem. It displays for me just fine, what about everyone else?
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Got it now. Great shot!
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Thanks a lot for the heads up and the instructions!
Out of curiosity, I tried using bitly to shorten the image URL (a little bit less work than the album / photo sharing) and now I'm wondering if it solves the problem. It displays for me just fine, what about everyone else?
That is a great shot. :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
I sent you a message.
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Here's another :)
(https://bit.ly/bradropetoss)
Is this Brad's version of Cross Fit? Shoulda used a kettle bell (or asked clink to chuck it) :biggrin:
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Thanks a lot for the heads up and the instructions!
Out of curiosity, I tried using bitly to shorten the image URL (a little bit less work than the album / photo sharing) and now I'm wondering if it solves the problem. It displays for me just fine, what about everyone else?
I can't see the photo on my computer or my phone now - I saw it earlier.
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We got out to do The Flying None yesterday.
Spoke to the Santa Cruz crew (Nick-me, Marnye, Bill, and Cormac).
We purposely went mid-week to do this route since the Citadel gets so much traffic.
Poor Cormac and his wife showed up just as we were about to start climbing.
He wanted to fall in behind us and I didn't want to admit that we climb slow as molasses.
The conversation started out slow and then we chatted a bit as we were both leading.
I was nervous as hell and get Tourette's when I lead so that made things flow a little more smoothly.
He certainly knows now how slow we are.
They zipped up Costanoan and even stealthily slipped back down to do an upper pitch or two of The None unbeknownst to us.
The routes are close enough to socialize as you climb. It took us over 2 hours to climb the route :shocked: :crazy:
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Tricia has started ending her backpack and hiking trips with "leaping" photos which are a pretty cool tradition. Like this from this last weekend with her cousin:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52887134067_85aee2ec0f_c.jpg)
So I can't see the shot of me "in the air" on computer or phone. But it might be fun to be able to compare it to some of T's shots?
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So I can't see the shot of me "in the air" on computer or phone. But it might be fun to be able to compare it to some of T's shots?
Must be a Mission Impossible type server. Your photo will self destruct in...
Oddly, I can still see it.
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They can jump pretty high! You are not jumping that high in the rope toss pic. it's a really good one.
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No pic showing, as fine as the Emperor’s new clothes…
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No pic showing, as fine as the Emperor’s new clothes…
Alright alright, what about now?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaXvJWBMEyrAhZosZbmm6LLP2oGVsKirOURXrjqSF31wxHbNRy1KXDCcCIg_6ffIYAU9yBZaasIIDm3BLuhjXLOaEkD1eOoYTe8zjZgj5ssXvQyfsF-JN-Rz-XhTjvL-kEUplHRqEZZjvQXtmS_kmpR1gQ=w1066-h803-s-no?authuser=0)
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I can see it......on my phone. :D
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I can see the photo now - it's a fun capture. I had no idea that I was even jumping while I was tossing ;D
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Brad, I was inspired by this photo to suggest the perfect handle for you to use, "Falcon Heavy".
I know SpaceX is trying to launch one such called ship, but there you are already in full lift off, putting a satellite in orbit, and I bet you stuck the landing. The name is yours for the taking.
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Alright alright, what about now?
Yes!
Nicely done.
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Spent the day yesterday doing a little climbing and exploring a bit.
Went up to Upper Slick Pinnacle and did High Viscosity
Past the crux (preferred technique is a backstep butt cheek wriggle-up maneuver)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaU0QZWX_9UvuCDVK7Jj8XSv-HladGm7Spz3oEf06qqB0twFq9Su9EO9V0B6NytKrqzOv-2n5LQYS8y6exeKpXDy2Ir6ucxZt9RUFtBaKhY5KMgq0dOW2-PDFnynwnu-2j93tMJAiUqJzVRMd7b3Zv-E=w469-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
At the belay
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaUm0Aen5U9lZN3mi_dHjk14ECAuwVUVnQu9QiKemRozOGoddeHBc8itPbk4aidTGMO0npr78aiBzXOLRL_Vv8qAQdneaMIrJizy4a2jZdmtKd98Q0TtNKcL7c16tl8PSsSgznOkDljodDDCzCPihm8e=w833-h625-s-no?authuser=0)
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I had no idea that I was even jumping while I was tossing ;D
They say it takes a while to get used to the Pinnacles climbing style. I imagine with all your experience with the style it is just subconscious muscle memory at this point.
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Got out to the Rolling Stones yesterday. What a cool find, the large lodestones and belaying in a chimney make for a fun experience. It was supposedly only 75 yesterday in Soledad but it was nice and cool inside the chimney.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52964246486_8d51dc27ab_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52963648702_e725f7f358_c.jpg)
Pre and Post Step across. On the 5.6*? It starts on 5.4 Eleanor Digby.
Also did Colossus and Titan. I was glad there was chain to rap on Colossus especially. Thanks to the Cooks for adding that.
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Sounds like a productive day! That step across is quite exciting for 5.6. Huge holds though... if you find them.
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Really great day out with Marco yesterday. Good weather and fun climbing on some new routes. Here’s me on Titan. The Rolling Stones routes were good fun and easy to do all of them in a short time. Overall good routes and many are quite easy but enjoyable for such short formations, the corridor between the two was so cool. To those who found and established The Rolling Stones, good find.
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I know of four leads of Titan now. At least three of the four were done in approach shoes (and likely all four - not sure what J.C. wore). I also suspect that all four people who have led it feel like I do about pinnacles at Pinnacles: separate summits are fun. Whether they are class two, three, four or five, great rock to shitty kitty litter, there is something uniquely fun about summiting pinnacles at Pinnacles.
Thanks for sharing the shot.
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Fixed the image above so it actually displays. Thanks Marco for sending me a quick Flickr tutorial.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52968398140_299967b1b3_c.jpg)
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I know of four leads of Titan now. At least three of the four were done in approach shoes (and likely all four - not sure what J.C. wore). I also suspect that all four people who have led it feel like I do about pinnacles at Pinnacles: separate summits are fun. Whether they are class two, three, four or five, great rock to shitty kitty litter, there is something uniquely fun about summiting pinnacles at Pinnacles.
Thanks for sharing the shot.
Yes leading Titan in my hiking shoes was ideal. And I completely agree, my favorite thing is getting to a peak or a summit. It's so fun and gives me a feeling of accomplishment. I greatly appreciate these routes that take you to the true summit of a formation.
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I did it barefoot in honor of Bare-Toe.
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What the heck is on your head in that picture Samir?
Been off the forum for a month and now all caught up in 10 minutes.
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(http://What the heck is on your head in that picture Samir?)
Worm hole. Ask for the pics when Pinnacles was just another volcanic eruption.
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What the heck is on your head in that picture Samir?
I told him to put on a bag so the picture wouldn't be ruined.
Though in all seriousness I assume he was wearing a helmet and if not then it is a sunhat he was hiking in. Not sure why his face got worm holed.
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At first I thought his face had been obscured to protect his identity.
It would be cool to have an anonymous climber. He could wear a Mexican wrestling mask or a ski mask.
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I told him to put on a bag so the picture wouldn't be ruined.
:lol: :lol:
At first I thought his face had been obscured to protect his identity.
It be cool to have an anonymous climber. He could wear a Mexican wrestling mask or a ski mask.
Paper bag with cutouts. The Unknown Climber
Clearly this person already exists and must be good at hiding in plain sight - as evidenced by the many Unknown FA's ::)
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It would be cool to have an anonymous climber. He could wear a Mexican wrestling mask or a ski mask.
I agree.
Would this be just for pictures or all the time? If I saw someone wearing a Mexican wrestling mask or ski mask heading my way on the trail I would flip around.
Even more if he showed up at a line I was working on, while wearing that, it is his line now.
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The Unknown Climber
Clearly this person already exists and must be good at hiding in plain sight - as evidenced by the many Unknown FA's ::)
Could be Brad. Undiagnosed "Sleep Climbing".
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clunk is out.
Marco is IN!
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Getting tied off to this. :) or :( ?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53141196692_41af0da744_c.jpg)
Additionally I was wondering why there wasn't much activity here lately until I saw the sign. I know it can't be the heat...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53142207885_2bb3b1568e_c.jpg)
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Bombproof. But why waste time tying off to both for God's sake?
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Bombproof. But why waste time tying off to both for God's sake?
I have nothing but time on these long cool summer days here.
Also you've seen my knots first hand. I figured one has to be knotty enough, right?
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Bombproof. But why waste time tying off to both for God's sake?
Two is better than one.
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lol
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Additionally I was wondering why there wasn't much activity here lately until I saw the sign. I know it can't be the heat...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53142207885_2bb3b1568e_c.jpg)
Is this Mikayla's license plate?
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Just a few observances and updates
The park was pretty quiet yesterday - eerily so where we were.
There was a small canyon burn at one of the ranches on the way in.
Chalone Vineyard's tasting room is now closed permanently which is disappointing and a great loss.
It used to be a real treat to stop in there on the way out. Consequently, we dropped our membership in their wine club.
The grass is higher and drier than ever and is poised to light the whole place up.
By the way...I noticed there never was any follow up on the fire in the High Peaks that Bare Toe posted about - oh well...we'll let the suspense build.
The air quality was pretty terrible yesterday (again) so we decided a change of scenery was warranted after being at the house for over a week doing various mundane chores. The air quality numbers were lower at the park but it didn't look or smell any different to me.
The landscape of the drive is changing. There is now a Love's at the Airport exit in Salinas.
No climbers out and only one hiker on the Balconies trail.
Streams are completely dry. Quite the change from our last trip down in mid May.
Saw Wile E Coyote emerge from the shade of a tree by the deserted kiosk on the way out. No park presence.
Weeds are nearly grown in on the path from the bathrooms to the Balconies trail.
In N Out was as good as ever on the way home.
Getting some curiosity exposure and gross air after lunch.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc-0VSXIE1xbSngdiKaxG2VB9tMJD-1SF3wf0wcefUl_4b_w0IGBxWdR4wrLOZst7Gx2cMxjYvF_25KcalXyHLseCX6Xf0Fm3guuc61nbEJCbJnDAZ-Ei51Lzi8atXD1pakoXrjAXyp47yscsU9F01Xx=w825-h619-s-no?authuser=0)
Kat (my "machine") descends the dry. loamy topsoil and slicky grass on the "biologist's" trail below Agent Orange.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc_QbSj74Iu2CIvmpfT25foApLj7m7DxDxWVHOQ6DxDPuuRGXGhJvMGS2ttJw5qdTRBOph9pgBoaGVcLTnmJ2_5oJIeGrkUO23tl_b6PDYhzzYO3ObxdkjUcne6FYWeNWZhYLEFVPfFGUG9KeflcoyAa=w825-h619-s-no?authuser=0)
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It's late September. And Cooks are sllooowwly getting us all kick started into Pinnacles season.
Almost cold enough at our house this morning to consider a fire in the downstairs wood stove.
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Went out with Brad today to finish off the route we'd been working on this spring in Juniper Canyon. That goal was successful. One more bolt from each of us (my 3rd total) got it done, after I ran it out to what's now bolt five (shared by Occam's Hairbrush). Redpoint also ran it out to the top, but Brad put a sixth in after that. The route probably wants an anchor too, as Hairbrush's is reasonably far left of where this line wants to end, but that'll need to be for another time.
We didn't climb anything else, as Brad had been out for four days already, and wanted to get home to see puppies. I'm prepping for a multi-day Vegas trip, so I didn't argue. See attached photo of the master bolter below.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53283712831_7c85e9eaf8_w.jpg)
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Nice! Excited about any specific Red Rock routes?
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I thought Pinns season was yet to start?!
Good work!
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I thought Pinns season was yet to start?!
Good work!
Honestly, it was downright cold when we left the Chaparral Parking Lot at 8:30 this morning. I stripped off a puffy and other light zip-up when we got to the crag, and didn't wear anything more than a tank the rest of the time. It was probably about 75 when it hit the high for the day.
Noal, I have so many things on the "want" list at Red Rock, and that's having barely looked at the trad and multipitch stuff. Right now, I've got my eye on a thin vert 11- called Snagglepuss that's on the Basin side. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108781019/snagglepuss (https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108781019/snagglepuss)
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Never been to that crag in Calico Basin. Looks fun. Red Rock is one of my favorite places to climb. Have fun!
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Here's Sibylle on maybe the first pitch of Lotta Balls
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53285754108_136c3f26a2_z.jpg)
We also climbed Black Magic that day. Anybody done Trihardral?
Here's one of Hot Fudge Thursday. I think we climbed it on a Thursday and afterwards I got a Hot Fudge Sundae at McDonalds. My climbing partner for that trip Dave did not have a Sundae. He also did not want to do my original plan for that trip where we stayed at the Hooters Casino and could only eat chicken wings and drink beer for the whole week. What a party pooper.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53284610827_a32ea403e2_z.jpg)
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Oh man do I remember the route Lotta Balls! One of the more unique climbs I've ever done.
On the pitch that inspired the route name, one is face climbing on sandstone. And the holds are marble to walnut size balls of rock that stick out from the face. Oh, but those balls are only one third to one half of their diameter INTO the rock! I looked at these and said to myself: "no f$%#ing way those are going to hold!"
But the next thing I thought was "it's go up on these or go down," and then: "hundreds of climbers have done the route." I went up. But with every move I knew some of those balls were going to come off. None did, of course.
A must do route in Red Rocks.
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I led that pitch. Sibylle was thinking the same thing you were. Some of the features at Red Rock are so unique. Like Armatron. I thought the route was OK but pitch 6? that looks like a big candy bar is the main attraction. I did it all with nuts.
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^^^
It takes balls to use nuts.
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^^^
It takes balls to use nuts.
Where as, it's nuts to use ball(nut)s.
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My climbing partner for that trip Dave did not have a Sundae. He also did not want to do my original plan for that trip where we stayed at the Hooters Casino and could only eat chicken wings and drink beer for the whole week. What a party pooper.
Real wings are garbage meat, but if I could sub out boneless wings (or chicken strips, as they're called in the real world) that sounds like just my type of terrible idea.
But a heads up: no one plan a trip to RR the first weekend in April. I'm planning to be there then, and some mischievous weather sprite has had my number the last few years, so it's guaranteed to rain there that weekend. ::)
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It's gonna rain and you will have to stay at Hooters and eat wings.
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It's gonna rain and you will have to stay at Hooters and eat wings.
My cousin is too enlightened to stay at Hooters and I'm too picky to eat wings. We'll just snuggle in the bed of his T100 and drink beer.
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Dave didn't want to stay at Hooters and he ended up with a tick on his testicle. We were there for a week and he did not notice until the last day. Shoulda stayed at Hooters. The only thing wrong with Hooters is those panty hose they make them wear.
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Dave didn't want to stay at Hooters and he ended up with a tick on his testicle. We were there for a week and he did not notice until the last day.
Oof! I got a tick my only trip there, fortunately is was on a much less worse place. And it woke me up enough in the middle of the night to check the weather and realize that 4" of snow was coming in, so we needed to bail. Silver linings, and all that...
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Snow there is nice. Dave got the tick the first day when we slept on the ground. There were a pack of coyotes howling nearby. He was zipping and unzipping his sleeping bag because he was afraid the coyotes would attack him when he was zipped in the bag. Tick got in the bag. We took a shower at the gym and he said it was huge like when you pick them off a dog.
That guy was pretty entertaining.
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Happy Halloweenie!!!
Wanna see some scary stuff? a half? driven quarter inch button head totally crooked. At least it had a good hanger to help pull it out in a fall :yikes:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHecUYUlapqDQAMPZCE9i_dYln4D3hn8nqVsTLIrW8xphPtNt6eoKTQYgc-D7EOQjfH5M2qPFVPmN_ifAJTizd2ev_tjazfvs9vVxbQGgI4j8FSYIaReKyPNhWRyLyiBPHEBD9ecPdsGaVey0yAKhfx_=w452-h602-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
Not a great picture but this is the old mid-belay bolt on North Finger East Edge 5.7R
Star dryvin half? driven and bent to shit with the sleeve under the Leeper hanger...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHcMjRT3r6ETiGvw3RdwNfzhTrmFL0leaQY1FZBve3jD9U30KiiIEndUaMC9jHE8iWKu04r0fwufpv-BPU7z-LlJmMsWX9_eVLIKZbVJwg1T4KP0JuW4tvpDSvc_cqACB2-VNvvvNTLUr-fUhq9z0G4K=w803-h602-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
Star dryvin that popped out with a few light taps of the tuning fork (Atlas Shrugs mid belay). Completely under-driven and bent in an under-drilled hole - quite the booby trap.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHcWhHooMcbxSwuh5tLXiVf8gjCOeThNFFu96l3aaU25vbgf80ukuGlr1JJ0hZ5YXUesQMBaaDc1tkB9STDiC7qhGNiMpp3kbPhFg4s9J01z56KeuYByu15yxH1gKwmS1RisPzg8FwcZVoxLex6aF7cA=w537-h602-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
And one just for fun (Kat follows North Finger East Edge 5.7R) Trick or Treat?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfotBc9rDa45otLMKXfhfz3UzqA4rI7U5lW5PIPAaUm2lGizYrikrgKJoFHDzjQlAgW1ITo6Mzj_caH3Hh_8i_V20n4P7TCEm2ZfceBzb3vG5fw3RYziHcY5aR9t7EDD_za73ZnNoR3-8P5-8yGfIzC=w452-h602-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
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Is any of that today’s work? Or just scary shit accumulated over time?
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Oldies but goodies
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Noal is correct - it's the latter.
That is Noal's hand - he "pulled" that bolt from the Atlas Shrugs belay
That horrible star dryvin on North Finger is still there. It evidently has no sleeve (according to my previous report - see link below).
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=1587.msg46230#msg46230
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That is Noal's hand - he "pulled" that bolt from the Atlas Shrugs belay
When I climbed Atlas Shrugged we used that mid belay. If I remember correctly the R section is above that anchor. When we re bolted it all we had to do was put the tuning fork behind the hanger and were able to pull it out with just our fingers.
There was another bolt on the next route over Fast Lane that had a really long Dryvin bolt maybe 3" It also came out in the same manner.
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When I climbed Atlas Shrugged we used that mid belay. If I remember correctly the R section is above that anchor. When we re bolted it all we had to do was put the tuning fork behind the hanger and were able to pull it out with just our fingers.
I have some pictures of all the webbing people left on that mid anchor and the knob they tied off and incorporated as a backup. It's quite a ways up to the only lead bolt on p2. The first pitch looks pretty "sporty" too with wide bolt spacings and unfortunately a pin. Sadly, I never went back and led that route.
There was tat on the lead bolt
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHdt0dsTQ6PmBHo8sAFmamr7ppPbGf641C7zm9c_Wyugjzf_-ir6D2LOVEm8irb3IMLANLV0SE4kbuLe8AvCwwO3fZRYAns90PvO8IcYRnk1Uu27ZdpdpQ7Xi-oWfx3BQq8DyZJLONHuuEvD4odm0dlS=w445-h602-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
Closeup of the old mid anchor cluster on Atlas Shrugs
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfuOb44Kxt6HUBHQ9j6Yow0kS18U5x1e95YgACX5_mJ1cQmDC6UNPtvZAEuxucCZuE5ifaISwv_xKEjwvr2Pc6zanecjYu4YWq7i_Ux8YdGOWgEFrdI0GmU-NIo7bSXUdEsAcvWy-onu7imFgoJWReD=w543-h602-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
There was another bolt on the next route over Fast Lane that had a really long Dryvin bolt maybe 3" It also came out in the same manner.
Nice memory dude. I think that was originally a single bolt mid-belay, the stopping point of an unfinished route or the original party ran it from there to the top (Beyer?). That route was a mess and a mystery but it climbs nice now. It appeared to be retrobolted past that long star dryin. I didn't remember how easily that long bolt came out (you removed it - just like the one at the mid belay on Atlas Shrugs) but I did put that information in my rebolting notes at the time (2015) :thumbup:
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I thought Pinns season was yet to start?!
For some of us Pinns season never ended. Gavin and I spent many weekends of July and August enjoying perfect conditions on the Citadel ;)
On Sunday we checked out Liebacker's Lullaby. Here is some pictures of the money, 3rd, pitch. 1st Gavin on lead and 2nd me following. This climb had been on my list for a few years and actually the reason I bought a #6. Truly a unique climb and definitely the only 3 pitch climb I've done at the Pinns without clipping a bolt. All pitches were good rock but man was that 3rd pitch awesome!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53304083204_a98bc7413b_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53303716316_0391426203_c.jpg)
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I really like that route. Did you end up using the #6?
The Citadel really does have perfect temps in the summer. Usually around 3pm there's a breeze that kicks in. Easy place to spend all day.
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We found spots for the #6 on every pitch of the route. I actually only had small cams and the #6 reaching the P2 belay and the #6 fit.
Yes exactly. The hike to and from was usually hot as heck but the afternoon breeze was great.
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It's always good to get rid of the #6 to the follower as soon as possible.
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For some of us Pinns season never ended.
Thank you.
Go to the first post of this thread,
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It's always good to get rid of the #6 to the follower as soon as possible.
Yes Gavin did a great job with that. I usually bump the big gear until i can get in a different piece to ditch, good training weight. It was a nice surprise to use it for the anchor though.
Go to the first post of this thread,
According to my photos I got 12 west side days and 1 east side day June-September. Explains the underwhelming alpine season lol.
Good hiking/backpacking preparation though.
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According to my photos I got 12 west side days and 1 east side day June-September. Explains the underwhelming alpine season lol.
Good hiking/backpacking preparation though.
Go to the head of the class!
Just for fun I checked my log and I had 15 days June-Aug 2016. If I count September (not summer to me even though it's usually still pretty hot at Pinns) it's 20 days. All but 3 of those days were spent at Crud and Mud and Pioneer Pinnacle) - it truly was the Summer Of Mud and a once in a lifetime experience.
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Go to the head of the class!
Just for fun I checked my log and I had 15 days June-Aug 2016. If I count September (not summer to me even though it's usually still pretty hot at Pinns) it's 20 days. All but 3 of those days were spent at Crud and Mud and Pioneer Pinnacle) - it truly was the Summer Of Mud and a once in a lifetime experience.
That is a lot of very hot hiking to get out there all summer. Very nice.
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That is a lot of very hot hiking to get out there all summer. Very nice.
We'd get there early and be out there in the shade by the time it warmed up.
The day I finished Ashes the Mud and I (rope solo) - it was foggy and I was actually chilly drilling (starting out).
That was a fun day!
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Just for fun I checked my log and I had 15 days June-Aug 2016. If I count September (not summer to me even though it's usually still pretty hot at Pinns) it's 20 days. All but 3 of those days were spent at Crud and Mud and Pioneer Pinnacle) - it truly was the Summer Of Mud and a once in a lifetime experience.
Holy cow, your tan must've been superb. Hopefully those are all north facing climbing days.
Early June I checked out all the work you guys have been putting in at rolling stones. That place is fantastic for a hot day. Its nice and cool in the split.
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Holy cow, your tan must've been superb. Hopefully those are all north facing climbing days.
Early June I checked out all the work you guys have been putting in at rolling stones. That place is fantastic for a hot day. Its nice and cool in the split.
The stuff at The Stones is so much fun. It's all chill, but a great time.
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Saw some climbers on the Citadel this weekend climbing Power Tools. Snapped a picture but forgot to share contact info. Hopefully they see this by chance and I can send my amateur photo.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53331101318_206730abd2_c.jpg)
Afterwards we went up Power Tools for the first time and it did not disappoint. We had just done a another trad climb and since we had the rack we opted for the crack P1 start. The ro-sham-bo gods determined I lead p1&3 which were both great. The whole route would be better were the moss brushed, especially p2&4.
P3 felt like the crux for Cole and P4 felt like the crux to me. Pumpy vs technical I guess. It was a good thing we lead the pitches we did.
Brad's advice for lava falls "stem or die" was quite applicable for P1,3,&4 of this route as well.
Thank you Noal for rebolting with fresh shiny hardware! Appreciate the time and work it must have taken, it made me feel nice clipping them.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53331332185_5a991dca54_c.jpg)
Nice butt shot of Cole stemming through p4.
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Nice pictures. I was wondering what you did this weekend.
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Had a reminder from another site today.
On this date in 2015 Kat and Tricia topped out Tuff Chix and made Pinnacles herstory.
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=2324.msg32941#msg32941
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Looks like you guys had a full fun day. Glad you enjoyed the new bolts. It's nice to look up and see those Fixe hangers.
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I did Power Tools with Brad 11 or 12 years ago. Brad led p1 and p3, I led p2 and p4. We did it all clean. (on sight). One of my very proud climbs!
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Nice pictures.
Not that you need an atta boy from me but nice lead too Marco. That butt shot makes the route look pretty Brad-ass.
The other shot of the unknown party is cool too - nice to see a side aspect of something that shows the steepness.
It's also fun to see you out having fun just climbing. Will the real budding 5.6 climber please stand up?
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I did Power Tools with Brad 11 or 12 years ago. Brad led p1 and p3, I led p2 and p4. We did it all clean. (on sight). One of my very proud climbs!
Thats awesome! I was glad I didn't have to lead those pitches. I'm with you on it being one of my proud pinnacles climbs.
On this date in 2015 Kat and Tricia topped out Tuff Chix and made Pinnacles herstory.
Haha well said, I enjoyed that route on Deep Groove Wall. No room for squares was especially fun. Good place for some secluded cragging.
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That butt shot makes the route look pretty Brad-ass.
Not at all. Not a pair of shorts in sight.
It's also fun to see you out having fun just climbing.
I have been getting back into the fun climbing mindset and forgot it was... fun.
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[
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Well, Marco went balls to the wall yesterday. Very bold and very strong lead. And I deserved to be hit by one of the many rocks he knocked off (egg size - drew some blood). Not only was it a no star route that I put up years ago, I "challenged" him to do the lead. It was likely a second ever ascent (last ever too??).
Unquestionably the best lead I've ever seen him do (the lead, NOT the route).
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Well I was hoping for Herchel Berchel but I see that was not one of yours.
In the immortal words of mungie - INVALID WITHOUT PICTURES.
Nice trip report though - thanks!
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Well I was hoping for Herchel Berchel but I see that was not one of yours.
In the immortal words of mungie - INVALID WITHOUT PICTURES.
Nice trip report though - thanks!
Oh no, not Herchel Berchel. I'd have had to follow him on that. And there's no way in hell I'd ever touch that route again.
Here's a photo of him having clipped the route's third bolt (and now past the worst rock, with better but steep stuff coming).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53363394404_06d3638bb7_b.jpg)
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Well I looked it up earlier and I had it down to Soft Peas or Turd Merchant. I'm guessing the latter based on the look of that pic.
Walked past it at least 100 times but never anyone on it.
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Well I looked it up earlier and I had it down to Soft Peas or Turd Merchant. I'm guessing the latter based on the look of that pic.
Walked past it at least 100 times but never anyone on it.
Apparently he's gone from way out there climbing to way out there with a school project. So, although it's his lead to comment about, yes, he led Turd Merchant. Here's a photo from further back:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53364111741_374e4b1df6_b.jpg)
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That steep stuff looks pretty cool hold-wise. I always thought that gray rock looked good but never even considered the route from the rating, no stars, the name and the gear protection. I just re-read the description and didn't realize there were so many bolts. I noticed there is no descent info.
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I deserved to be hit by one of the many rocks he knocked off
Looking at the picture again brings the thought to mind "there's a roof there for a reason"
I "challenged" him to do the lead.
You "should" know better.
What's next? 536.6 Not Today 5.10c R ?
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Actually, there’s a reason that there’s an ugly, loose, slanting wide crack there (that’s where most of the 30 or so pounds of various rocks he knocked off came from).
And perhaps he’ll choose to elaborate on the nature of the “challenge….”
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Apparently he's gone from way out there climbing to way out there with a school project.
Unfortunately this this the truth. At least 6 days a week I am overwhelmed but that one Pinnacles day a week helps get me through.
Sorry about hitting Brad in the ear but I was too busy being puckered to be really sorry until after I got down. Turd merchant would be a great route if you could bypass the middle section but alas wide section is the obvious line and is extremely loose. Thanks Brad, for the support, belay, and putting up this route back when my school projects just involved coloring.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53365122784_2b8bd49edb_c.jpg)
Also saw this little dude at Pipsqueak Pinnacle that day. Never saw a yellow hourglass before this, very cool.
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Thanks Brad, for the support, belay, and putting up this route back when my school projects just involved coloring.
Goddamn whippersnapper. Made me laugh out loud.
Great photo of the spider.
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At least 6 days a week I am overwhelmed but that one Pinnacles day a week helps get me through.
The "game" is they bury you with work to the point where you think you will never get out from under.
They also make you fulfill nonsensical requirements to keep you in school as long as possible and keep their coffers full.
Universities and colleges are businesses first and foremost.
If you think it's bad now - wait until you get into grad school - you're still working on your undergrad right?
I actually liked grad school better but I was already in my 40's and knew how to play the game (school of hard knocks).
Maybe it was also partly because I wasn't working 60 hours a week (at night) while I took classes.
Just keep tapping and turning - you'll get there - and some day you can have a bonfire with all the stacks of stuff you saved (thinking you might need them again). :madman: :madmax: :devildevil:
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J.C., you're incorrect about his school status. He's in grad school with his formal, school studies. But still working hard on his undergraduate degree in Pinnacles climbing. It'd be easy to mix up the two.
Also, by way of explanation: I was belaying with a helmet. One egg-size rock hit the top/side of the helmet. No big deal. The other egg-size rock hit my ear, below the edge of the helmet. Although I lost my balance and then fell down between trying to duck and getting hit, I'd wrapped the brake side of the rope around my hand and never let go (not that the kid would care... he just continued to jettison more rocks).
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J.C., you're incorrect about his school status. He's in grad school with his formal, school studies. But still working hard on his undergraduate degree in Pinnacles climbing. It'd be easy to mix up the two.
Also, by way of explanation: I was belaying with a helmet. One egg-size rock hit the top/side of the helmet. No big deal. The other egg-size rock hit my ear, below the edge of the helmet. Although I lost my balance and then fell down between trying to duck and getting hit, I'd wrapped the brake side of the rope around my hand and never let go (not that the kid would care... he just continued to jettison more rocks).
Now you made me laugh.
Damnit! I didn't remember what he told me and besides - he doesn't look old enough to be in grad school.
It doesn't seem like buying turds from a merchant constitutes undergraduate level work.
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Hold it. Isn't what you question here:
It doesn't seem like buying turds from a merchant constitutes undergraduate level work.
Essentially the same as what you said in more words here:
The "game" is they bury you with work to the point where you think you will never get out from under.
They also make you fulfill nonsensical requirements to keep you in school as long as possible and keep their coffers full.
Universities and colleges are businesses first and foremost.
If you think it's bad now - wait until you get into grad school - you're still working on your undergrad right?
I actually liked grad school better but I was already in my 40's and knew how to play the game (school of hard knocks).
Maybe it was also partly because I wasn't working 60 hours a week (at night) while I took classes.
Just keep tapping and turning - you'll get there - and some day you can have a bonfire with all the stacks of stuff you saved (thinking you might need them again). :madman: :madmax: :devildevil:
:-* ;)
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J.C., you're incorrect about his school status. He's in grad school with his formal, school studies. But still working hard on his undergraduate degree in Pinnacles climbing. It'd be easy to mix up the two.
What qualifies you to matriculate from Pinnacles Climbing University?
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What qualifies you to matriculate from Pinnacles Climbing University?
It's like Hotel California.
You can check out any time you like but you can never leave.
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Well I was hoping for Herchel Berchel but I see that was not one of yours.
In the immortal words of mungie - INVALID WITHOUT PICTURES.
Nice trip report though - thanks!
zactly!
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What qualifies you to matriculate from Pinnacles Climbing University?
When one enjoys every climb there. No matter how many "stars," and how good the protection?
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When one enjoys every climb there. No matter how many "stars," and how good the protection?
Nah, that may be too extreme (and quality a person as not being too bright??). How about when they've done a certain number of clean leads there? One hundred? Two-fifty?
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When one enjoys every climb there. No matter how many "stars," and how good the protection?
Nah, that may be too extreme (and quality a person as not being too bright??). How about when they've done a certain number of clean leads there? One hundred? Two-firfty?
An applicable psychiatric scale for diagnosis would be helpful.
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An applicable psychiatric scale for diagnosis would be helpful.
I'm not sure there is a reptilian psychiatric scale.
You can always find something to enjoy about any route - since no route is completely worthless.
If nothing else, you can revel in/enjoy the fact that you never have to climb the route again. :thumbup: :yesnod: :ihih:
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Nicely put JC!
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Still, a psychiatric scale for reference and maybe an 800 number or two to call, if a person reaches a certain number of checked boxes or to have knowingly elected to climb particular routes would make for a more comprehensive Pinnacles Guidebook.
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^
:lol: :lol: :lol:
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Carried over from Weekend Update (even though it wasn't the weekend).
And so the mystery began (seen from the uphill side of the pinnacle):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53394889820_f1201b4940_c.jpg)
Closer up (that doesn't look like a piece of nature):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53394450191_63d4d88a4f_c.jpg)
What happened next?
Rope-a-dope (you can see the bag of pitons bouncing off the rock). The next toss was "successful" but...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84dSGrvwQ-QH9hxoh2urkXy6BLVcqdj7yXbFjsVK51dB8mtOePDQQJP5rG3TOnlOEi9F4JD5_xOD_gAmNzn4hSQ0SDRO1q8LmmhdI9yciZWSREC0fxbbGkpJvsCN64zEYlfFGhgz_o9-SDPt6rN7o4M=w503-h618-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
Oops (and so it begins again_redux)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87csCLlIr3R5AaBxaspyv2IuTNCvE1aLQU3-sgAaurEvOvGgZ_RffAOwWCpngPojWxSDK6wXO1yk6XotAxiavml1xxR2hPElIqqziUKYQTPTSvCGxb3GYJhGgz7fnaw9YqzICYdAsAuVZ-qgMFuHkwj=w464-h618-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
The next day
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86Kz2KxMNdvFaz0PPszRXHtRBl5wDSdq8lPjQSDluQGY2W998mToPPHnhwxaAfqq-tX6Id8J_jd-0VVTUaZJ52oobTix__NcWmjAUSGjXioKTKH0WK6nDPZNGNGOZQuaDXdE6WGCNhQt8WEsnRhQwIQ=w432-h618-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
Testing holds in preparation to step out of the aiders (someone needs to wear brighter colors)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87Xpi6RjOw7naJHk0CHz3Dh3yuKtZ4LWOhH5n2I-IkSqMnpRtDGuPEW-aeAYpATsQ-UMlwGhRY1Ix7PGasQ1SXlbJ6hk2aACD_vkQnVnH7W3TWaGPt7EY-gUE5VeMSCA_kbNkxBbu91pOh1YMHuyHYE=w479-h618-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
My turn
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV853DuQf8yn0ptymrvcnSqBroCi2LPm95spUy1bTxJmurcEGBu8YTbjoMIW1QV43PefVEPFjfawVDIKznWxZ3_FwMPh5uUb0SsTBOPYTExP3si0HX2WnqyzPnA3YdSjxc6MUYoVdPjWqwpFHij6uZMPj=w464-h618-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
The bright spot. Or is it the dim bulb? :idea:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV873C91vviCri1RAeLkCsFpn9Tpm7QKqgjvI5h8aBRI-LFcVdlYCLLr-TRNu7adyuXcypRhkJQc578ILruJfPm-waFWfU7B_7gWb87VARn8y_Ir0_Y67wBVOPyGAssI4YF-oRevCuoIxL3s3QZl0zfDS=w457-h618-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
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To add detail to the story:
I saw this little summit relic ten days ago while I was taking guidebook photos. We went out on Monday to check it out.
We spent hours looking for how they could have gotten up there. Found no way it could have been free climbed at less than 5.8 or harder (and 90 or 100 feet of that). There were no signs of any other protection (bolts or fixed pins) and no sign of passage other than that top bolt.
We concluded that they must have ascended a fixed rope over the summit, but probably got that there by kite or using a deep sea fishing rod. Still, we tried to replicate it by throwing a rope over the top with weight attached.
Didn't work. I got John and Kathy’s rope irrevocably stuck across the summit (turned out that it was utterly jammed between big blocks of rock). So we ended up putting a five bolt ladder to near the summit and then freeing a bit from the last bolt (5.7 A1). Got the rope unstuck, confirmed the bolt on top, and looked carefully for any other sign that anyone had been up any other possible way to the summit. Nothing. Zip.
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And here you were swearing me to secrecy regarding the quality of your rope-a-doping on the way back! Did y'all end up putting one more bolt in, or just aiding it like I did and putting in an anchor?
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Swearing you to secrecy about the location. Yes, location, location, location. It's pretty clear that J.C. already gave the game away about me getting the rope stuck and all that. Besides, it's not so embarrassing a few days later.
And just swearing in general too.
Pretty sure no-one could find this thing from anything we've posted?
No, we kept it at five aid bolts. I got up there and stood high in aiders. Free climbing from there was 5.7 (after a little cleaning).
Two bolt anchor is directly above the route. The little bit of historic aluminum is very visible from it.
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It's pretty clear that J.C. already gave the game away about me getting the rope stuck and all that. Besides, it's not so embarrassing a few days later.
Two bolt anchor is directly above the route. The little bit of historic aluminum is very visible from it.
Well I had the pictures and I really liked the one of you throwing/bouncing the bag off the rock.
I said about as little as I could - figuring it was your story to tell.
I thought about saying even less but I don't like guessing games in posts - so decided to kind of spill the beans.
Glad we didn't need to add another bolt (seeing as my left calf is screaming at me today).
The anchor couldn't have turned out any better.
I thought about Mud's free soloing stories (not to mention Rock Naked), Mungie's 5.8X at HCD and my old buddy Martin saying that at the height of his climbing he didn't rope up for anything 5.9 or easier.
Maybe there is another 1/4 inch stud on that thing somewhere and they took the hanger off. There was a hangerless 1/4 inch stud in that huge lodestone on The Flatiron's Original Route that people missed for 70 years. Crud and Mud had one too. :yesnod: :thumbup: :devildevil:
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Pretty sure no-one could find this thing from anything we've posted?
I'm double damn sure. The fix is in.
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Pretty sure no-one could find this thing from anything we've posted?
I would not worry about that. It's more about someone wanting to find it. If someone did I would want to meet them. Just like us wanting to meet the climbers on Casino Rock the other day.
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I would not worry about that. It's more about someone wanting to find it. If someone did I would want to meet them. Just like us wanting to meet the climbers on Casino Rock the other day.
Not a lot of folks clambering to know where this 5 bolt aid ladder on some nearly unclimbed choss is, no.
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I would not worry about that. It's more about someone wanting to find it. If someone did I would want to meet them. Just like us wanting to meet the climbers on Casino Rock the other day.
Still some bold and crazy climbers out there. Like Marco leading Turd Merchant.
Curious people too. Like Burnsbabe helping us solve the mystery.
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^
Still an Unsolved Mystery imo.
Not enough data points for anything but conjecture.
New name - Cold Case
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I believe Brad had a name for it already, somehow.
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I believe Brad had a name for it already, somehow.
Shocking. But (would you believe) I've never named a climbing route before....
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Name it.
Blame it.
Tame it.
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Bantering back and forth aside, here's the description of this new route (and sooo many people will just rush right out to do it). K.C. came up with the name and those who have read this thread will understand it right away. I will also post this on the new routes thread:
405.8 The Afterthought - The End of My Rope 5.7 A1 The Afterthought is a significant but less-obvious formation located 300 yards south from the High Peaks Trail. The formation is at the same elevation as, but across a south-flowing sub-canyon (due west from) The Unmentionable. By way of further identifying information, the formation consists of two sections, one to the northeast (smaller) and a main part of the formation, to the southwest (to the right when approaching from the High Peaks Trail). The main formation’s uphill (northwest) side is near-vertical and 45 to 55 feet tall. Its downhill side is lower angle and 100 feet tall. Approach by leaving the High Peaks Trail 250 feet northwest of The Rest Stop. Move west before turning south and passing under the east side of a series of large, discontinuous, multi-faceted rock groups which are east of Pinch or Lynch Wall. The End of My Rope reaches the summit via aid climbing on the left side of the uphill face. Five bolts and one fixed piton lead to a short section of free climbing and a two-bolt anchor on top (a third, very old bolt is 10 feet west of this anchor).
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The End of My Rope reaches the summit via aid climbing on the left side of the uphill face. Five bolts and one fixed piton lead to a short section of free climbing and a two-bolt anchor on top (a third, very old bolt is 10 feet west of this anchor).
Old school Pinnacles climbing, any pic of the fixed pin? The story is different but the route reminds me of a route I climbed, to a summit with a mystery, that Brad later used for his own Cape Canaveral.
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Kat and I spent the day with Noal yesterday up at Crowley. I wanted to try and get at least one day up there before the rains start and before closures kick in. We saw Marco, Cole and Mikayla in the parking lot. Marco and Cole were sorting/packing gear to go climb Premeditated. We watched Marco climb to the crack (from the approach trail) to Crowley and then made our way up the trail. Marco sent some great pictures yesterday afternoon but that is his story to tell.
Marco getting established in the crack (the traverse over to it looked scary)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85BHwdkqXGYSOBHydXY9mw1aRseNXOL4_dwRas3vSR9ffBtvGtsXrt-1RXC1rY8nvQidZG7g_nD0qydxJLFVoqY52Vl8j03yUKkgAdkjypcEJh-97nCtMzjf6FU6glC8gUXvEHC6EbRAWekeHH-aYBv=w517-h598-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
We made our way to Big Bottom Boulder and started the day with Mister Rightbottom. If anyone makes it out there - the cam goes between bolts 1 and 2. The hole is not visible until you start climbing and start to pucker looking at the decking potential before bolt 2. Once the cam is in - it's Saul Goodman. Fun little climb.
Noal relaxed and cruising the moves
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87PQax3wtDFfKovAlvoCvHwtgv7IiiEaa1X4_Bn_yO-9fKEY-Y1I-hOZa2sNnK4lBQ2tfUalMezcBbldDa95lU4rR1O5EroDMWF4SlVQVeyUY7A0bv0sSkziKMD6ZCoM5GEWhU5IPO-c5hI5NRse8-m=w448-h598-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
We made our way up the slope to the start of Good to Find. Another fun route.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86YWQ-i9jlLCY9NJwQS0GGsfMfCGNXtwoMNBLkrejGJSbn1ybqgPXZ76_jLJCaGI8QXbW4zwWpNevVnDrJDt1PrCZosuvnAtGEh4Vn95Yz-PL4joFqwrOMwwgxedMUBRwcoK5CxA-y_B4vujm1mnYFL=w449-h598-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV872zrnSel9rqrnTxvlYlPXPWjCtyzMUDLTlD_-47MQ3pYTWoNIBPQV2hrH1CQDIOCCPV5fTzp04T7JiAzZpgFWhuD4Qf4B3TzUCbHLfq3W6IqgzXIHCXhU-pXUb00KJ8SsnOCEOUB2UnXArqOlqwvC2=w269-h598-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
Thanks for the day Noal - that was fun :thumbup: :yesnod: :arf:
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We watched Cole climb to the crack (from the approach trail) to Crowley and then made our way up the trail.
This was actually Marco, who absolutely cruised the first pitch! Getting established in the crack did seem rather scary, and Marco confirmed that this was the only section of his pitch which was not type 1 fun. Nice photo
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This was actually Marco, who absolutely cruised the first pitch! Getting established in the crack did seem rather scary, and Marco confirmed that this was the only section of his pitch which was not type 1 fun. Nice photo
Whoops. I'll fix that. I could have sworn you were wearing a red shirt in the parking lot but I am old and forgetful. I also did not know who planned on leading what. I am curious about the bolts on the route (not that I will ever go near it). I could clearly see the p1 belay from Marco's picture (two old buttonheads on Leepers and one 5 piece carbon steel bolt on a Metolius hanger). It looked like maybe the p2 belay had some newer bolts but I could not see through all the gear. Nice job on leading that pile. I was looking at Cobbledik's old TR this morning.
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I am not the most knowledgeable on bolts, but the second anchor consisted of what I believe to be two newer-looking 5 piece bolts (same as on the p1 anchor) and two star dryvins with leeper hangers. After seeing the 5 piece bolt on the p1 anchor we decided to leave the bolt kit on the ground, which ended up being a good call. The bolts protecting the traverse into the crack where Marco is in your photo were buttonheads with old SMC hangers. And you are totally right, that thing is an absolute pile. I belayed Marco from way up the hill to avoid the constant stream of rock he was raining down.
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Posting here because the climb was previously mentioned but if this is too long I can make it its own thread.
Had a great weekend with Cole in which we decided to do some great climbs.
On Friday we did Full Circle + Shake and Bake linkup. I took a fall on the well protected crux on P2 of full circle but it was such a good climb I look forward to going back. Cole somehow lead every pitch of shake and bake with his massive balls weighing him down.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53404102411_58243bc89e_c.jpg)
Cole on P1 Shake and bake
We then toproped Electric Blue by lowering off the top shared anchors. This is a great sustained climb that judging by the amount of dirt does not get done a lot.
The following day we went to premeditated and had a great time. I'll admit I was puckered as heck for the "5.5" lead up to the crack before the first bolt. Though the rest of the pitch went a lot smoother than I anticipated. I have had much more "type 2" fun aiding in granite.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53404288338_014326e5a5_c.jpg)
Looking down P1
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53404288288_a3ef827f54_c.jpg)
Anchor situation on P1 for bolt people
Cole took a whip on P2 when a beak ripped dissolving the crack it was in. Fortunately a black totem caught him in what we assume was an old angle scar. When cleaning the pitch I laughed at how bad of a placement caught him (though it was the best palcement available for a cam). The second I weighted it while cleaning the cam it ripped and I took a mini swing. How the hell it held Cole I will never know.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53404535835_6b0f01eaac_c.jpg)
Cole post whip
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53403173647_3700aaaaaa_c.jpg)
Lower out beak
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53403173362_df52ae8b75_c.jpg)
Cole happy it is over
Overall awesome experience. Good weekend.
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I am not the most knowledgeable on bolts, but the second anchor consisted of what I believe to be two newer-looking 5 piece bolts (same as on the p1 anchor) and two star dryvins with leeper hangers. After seeing the 5 piece bolt on the p1 anchor we decided to leave the bolt kit on the ground, which ended up being a good call. The bolts protecting the traverse into the crack where Marco is in your photo were buttonheads with old SMC hangers. And you are totally right, that thing is an absolute pile. I belayed Marco from way up the hill to avoid the constant stream of rock he was raining down.
You seem to be pretty knowledgeable.
Given the age of the bolts on the traverse I'll guess they were SMC death hangers (not shiny like stainless SMC would be - plus SMC didn't make stainless prior to the 1980's) - so basically time bombs - buttonhead + smc death hanger = double death. Insert skull and crossbones emoji.
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Posting here because the climb was previously mentioned but if this is too long I can make it its own thread.
Your TR is the definition of Quest for Mud.
Cole somehow lead every pitch of shake and bake with his massive balls weighing him down.
No disrespect to Higgins but maybe we should change the name to Shake and Clank
We then toproped Electric Blue by lowering off the top shared anchors. This is a great sustained climb that judging by the amount of dirt does not get done a lot.
I remember Atom saying that is a nice climb. Don't recall anyone else ever mentioning it in my few puny years of being a Pinnhead.
I'll admit I was puckered as heck for the "5.5" lead up to the crack before the first bolt.
It was a nail biter watching you from the trail. The moves you made and body positions you got into did not look like 5.5 to me.
Anchor situation on P1 for bolt people
Are the two pitons fixed at the belay or did you guys place those?
I've been called a lot of things but this seems new. :idea:
I think I like it. 8)
Cole happy it is over
Overall awesome experience. Good weekend.
You guys just became local legends. :blahblah: :guitar: :thumbup: :crazy:
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Are the two pitons fixed at the belay or did you guys place those?
They were fixed.
It was a nail biter watching you from the trail. The moves you made and body positions you got into did not look like 5.5 to me.
I would agree it for sure was the hardest "5.5" I have done in the park and unprotected minus a knob none the less. Though caring a hammer, other aid gear, large rack with pins, and in approach shoes may have me extremely biased.
I guess it really did make me feel like a budding 5.6 climber.
No disrespect to Higgins but maybe we should change the name to Shake and Clank
I like it
Some other notes I should have included:
We brought a lot of gear and did not place anything smaller than a green alien/black totem. Also did not place a single nut.
The first pitch took 2 hours, from start to being at the anchors. Cole is extremely quick on jugs so I couldn't imagine it took him more than 20 minutes to clean.
The second pitch took around 3 hours to lead and clean. I took a while getting my jugs setup and lowering out, so it probably was an hour cleaning.
The traverse yielded the worst rock and placements and probably took an hour for Cole to complete. Looking at it while jugging I think that is fast as the placements were some of the wildest placements I've seen at pinnacles. Cole wouldn't admit it but he killed it on the pitch with very creative placements I wouldn't have thought of using.
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Impressive effort Marco and Cole - that "5.5" route looks heinous.
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I had some good climbing days too, with Mikayla last weekend, and then yesterday.
Last weekend we climbed Full Circle at Balconies and she rocked it leading all the pitches. The rock quality is mixed but the movement through each pitch is sustained and super fun - I still feel pretty proud of work done establishing that line. We toproped some of Shake & Bake too - definitely awesome climbing on that water streak.
Yesterday we went out to the Stronghold and did a number of routes. Mikayla led Great Minds (5.10a) clean, onsighted Second Glance (5.10d) and Hidden Treasure (5.8 ), climbed Ancient Relic (5.10a). Then we rappelled down the two pitches of Scaling the Ramparts (5.11a), setting up the first pitch on TR so Mikayla could lead the second pitch after we climbed through the first. It was great to get back on that route after finishing it last year - I was really interested to hear her thoughts on it and she agreed it was 5.11a for the first pitch, 5.10a for the second pitch, and a solid 2 stars.
Lots of fun climbing!
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That pitch 1 anchor is...definitely something. I guess there being 5 different points you're attached is encouraging.
Gavin, do closures go into effect on 1/1? Or is it later in January?
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Marco and Cole, were the Lost Arrows still fixed, up under the roof, on the last (traversing) bit of the second pitch? I remember finally getting in stuff I could trust at that point and positively welding them upward into the crack (that is, beating the holy living crap out of them). Mr Mud tried to get the first of those out and after five minutes of beating with the pin not budging an iota I told him to just leave it (and the next few).
I wonder if subsequent parties left those in place.
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That pitch 1 anchor is...definitely something. I guess there being 5 different points you're attached is encouraging.
Button heads are known for the heads shearing off and Leepers were all recalled (but you probably already know that).
Gavin, do closures go into effect on 1/1? Or is it later in January?
Typically the day after Martin Luther King Day (around January 15th).
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The rock quality is mixed but the movement through each pitch is sustained and super fun - I still feel pretty proud of work done establishing that line.
I really enjoyed Full Circle! It definitely deserves its two stars for its length and sustained nature alone. Not to mention it's on the coolest formation in the park. Thanks to you and Brad for putting in the work on that one.
Marco and Cole, were the Lost Arrows still fixed, up under the roof, on the last (traversing) bit of the second pitch? I remember finally getting in stuff I could trust at that point and positively welding them upward into the crack (that is, beating the holy living crap out of them)
There was one LA fixed a couple moves into the roof traverse and boy was I glad it was there. Definitely was the most confidence-inspiring piece I clipped the entire traverse. I had run out of LAs (I placed the two I had in the crack leading up to the traverse) so after I whipped I lowered down (off the black Totem Marco mentioned ripped on him) to back clean one. If I go up again, which I absolutely won't, I'd definitely bring a few more LAs. Beaks were useful too. You'd have to be a bit psycho to do this thing clean.
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You'd have to be a bit psycho to do this thing.
I fixed this sentence for you.
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Button heads are known for the heads shearing off and Leepers were all recalled (but you probably already know that).
Ah hell, we used to haul 300 pound haul bags from these on El Cap routes like South Seas. I've got the photos to prove it. So all bolts like this have got to be bombproof... don't they?
Sometimes I wonder how I am still alive ::)
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You'd have to be a bit psycho to do this thing.
I fixed this sentence for you.
Barry...er...I mean Brad beat me to it
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Impressive effort Marco and Cole - that "5.5" route looks heinous.
Spot on description of the "5.5".
Prior to the climb we took a picture of our old reliable '95 Rubine book and had no idea there was 4 bolts on the first pitch. We also expected it to top out. Once through P2 we went with the mountain project description and just accepted that 2 pitches was plenty.
Apon consulting the '07 Young guidebook later we realized there was 4 bolts in the first pitch so I must have missed the first one.
No topo with us was a cool experience though, as Cole and I thought we would've needlessly consulted it more that we should've and gotten in our heads more.
I'd definitely bring a few more LAs.
The day prior we had agreed on 2 LA's and 2 small angles and the rest beaks, ended up bringing 3 of each which was a good call. Looking back would've done 4+ LAs and just 1 larger angle then different size beaks.
I had some good climbing days too, with Mikayla last weekend, and then yesterday.
Lots of fun climbing!
Mikayla is taking a break from mudncrud after all her excessive recent activity on the site. I'll happily relay what she said though.
She really liked Full Circle, Second Glance, Ancient Relic, and as per usualy Great Minds. All of which she would go back for. She also wants to lead Scaling the Ramparts. Unlike me she has respectable standards for routes and her saying she would go back to a Pinnacles climb means it is good. Would echo they are all great routes that should get more attention.
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Unlike me she has respectable standards for routes...
:)
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Unlike me she has respectable standards for routes...
And this is one of Mikayla's very, very few personality flaws.
Actually, upon second thought, maybe she's the smartest one currently posting here?
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Someone once told me it's wise not to make comparisons.
That is why they make chocolate and vanilla.
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She really liked Full Circle, Second Glance, Ancient Relic, and as per usual Great Minds. All of which she would go back for. She also wants to lead Scaling the Ramparts. Unlike me she has respectable standards for routes and her saying she would go back to a Pinnacles climb means it is good. Would echo they are all great routes that should get more attention.
You would definitely like Scaling the Ramparts. It is well protected throughout, especially on the 5.11a and 5.10+ cruxes on the first pitch. I would be happy to go back and climb that with you too. It's really cool, with the two pitches each quite long but very different from each other.
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We met Noal yesterday and went up to climb Hidden Treasure. I am still feeling pretty uncertain about things and was grateful for his patience, kindness and encouragement.
We couldn't help notice that the park service yanked out a garbage can (safety cones) and the first three picnic tables and grills. No soup for you. I was telling Kat and Noal that their long term plan is to eliminate the lower parking lot and everything that is situated in the flood plain.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87BnbnQK41H8927SXewqNuqd8k-9UZbeRov1oP0JXU9VlKT5M9_DiEoorwnpahqBygrO9-lmS6ojDVddDry0-eiEPeQtdg_cMiGYceO2e-wzNev2PRDOz9xoMmyA5-8wyIOHg4bssxfNBGM4cNmxoWV=w797-h598-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
Frosty bridge (our version of a White Christmas)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87XLjhcKpIAj6BKdi0NgbKaGhSOvb-VXC-eVPX3Lns-yTip0dabDY2zmo7-vnxRpJb5CBTyI-xOtwjjwPMoOX2PHxu23daqY5nqeZKV91q-aoL8ROILsIRRxSwZHk-vz8dot9rJ96kevjNSCq5HXSDJ=w797-h598-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
Finishing the approach
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84Rm5hiqeXQBpTO7ntp-Dpdj3u_uzNFShG978ON228Yw2zb5vEjTtQoF52Tci9nsaIG8IxSCT8LfBtitM9b9JrmVWnUqcN4-YcErlJLVEQDW6oPwL4CnZGiADmkzgszNHHJXf0CqT1E07FYqDCoqoys=w1329-h598-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
pitch 1 bolt 3
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84pIEURnodd4e_38190tE_TuDPi0Nkydwl_5C0i3l9J-BfiyZSzPgpBFCM3FK6pbxlU7SXP8f1m7MIhp8tvQQMD4Nz_i85nCPpvORAXUTYTxGJZrCCzSRReY7KzS4UUvKOYYbjx8AM03g4jTwAW5F9b=w449-h598-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
pitch 2 - bolt 2 high-clipped
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84k2oFnxiZ0UmN9jH9UYB6NAIf0EpZpT4ajcedeB8V4_qtVxL68YkaiY2SursfPan2i0TvXkfRGDXklBFxnwKpLXAk7k5uw49IVEErS7AYmqRaHc-r9on8LV0kstgh_8RImk-1lMg0ZoH8HzNSSHgMP=w449-h598-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
We had a feast of Korean tacos courtesy of Noal back at the parking lot while we watched the almost full moon rise over the High Peaks. Thanks dude!
On the way out we got a surprise when a giant wild boar crossed the road not far in front of us. :yikes:
Kat was driving and saw the shape coming toward the road (she had bright lights on) and managed to hit the brakes in time. Noal was fairly close behind us and saw it too. :thumbup:
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I've climbed on the West Side many times. But I've never had Noal's tacos in West Side parking. Sounds like a real highlight (especially after realizing at the Masters of Mud that his food-prep skills are NOT merely run of the mill)!
Merry Christmas everyone!
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Fun day! Still a fair amount of people for Xmas eve. John did a great job leading Hidden Treasure.
The days should be getting longer so will probably bring the portable grill for post climbing hang in the parking lot. Anybody can join us. I brought extra stuff yesterday but feel free to bring your own grillables or beers. Also, since the park pulled the tables make sure and bring a chair.
Merry X-Mas
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his food-prep skills are NOT merely run of the mill!
Far from it.
Yesterday was thinly sliced, marinated beef on a corn tortilla with pickled daikon, cabbage, cilantro and a mixed sauce of mayo and siracha (he even had that in a restaurant-style squeeze bottle. Dude doesn't miss a beat. I thoroughly enjoyed everything but the cilantro. I must lack the gene that allows me to enjoy that flavor. My brother says the same thing. I talk to people that say how good they think it tastes but I have never liked it.
As far as other climbers on the west side, we did see a party of three head off early and talked to another party of two headed to Costanoan. Considering we saw no one at the popular routes on the way in, I wouldn't be surprised if the party of 3 also went to Citadel.
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That's awesome that you all did Hidden Treasure - really glad to see JC leading again, and on one of my routes! Looks like you all had a lovely day.
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That's awesome that you all did Hidden Treasure - really glad to see JC leading again, and on one of my routes! Looks like you all had a lovely day.
Thanks for all the hard work. That is a fun climb. We all had a good time and I was grateful for the day.
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That's awesome that you all did Hidden Treasure - really glad to see JC leading again, and on one of my routes! Looks like you all had a lovely day.
I think that the back story for the name Hidden Treasure is pretty fun. If Gavin reads this again perhaps he could tell it?
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I agree. A lot of holes. They were all filled with water which made things more comical. There is one that is unusually deep.
I led it last year with BAP and did it in one pitch. To not get rope drag requires extending the top of the pitch one anchor bolt and the first bolt. If done like this it makes the following balancey move quite interesting. John made the wise decision of pitching it out.
Fun route . Fun day. Thanks Gavin!
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I think that the back story for the name Hidden Treasure is pretty fun. If Gavin reads this again perhaps he could tell it?
I called it Hidden Treasure for two reasons. First, the top half of the climb - which is particularly good - is not visible at all from the ground as you start the climb. Second, while drilling near the top of the climb, I fumbled with a bolt hanger and dropped it into the bushes near the first pitch anchor. I checked the area later (and then Brad did on a subsequent visit) and we could not find the hanger anywhere. It definitely didn't drop all the way to the ground but it got lost somewhere in the leaves / grasses near the first pitch anchor.
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Thanks for the backstory. Kat would have spotted a hanger if it was there.
I thought it was because it was the last route "discovered" and /or the fact that the climb keeps "giving" you holes just when you need them.
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Thanks for the backstory. Kat would have spotted a hanger if it was there.
I thought it was because it was the last route "discovered" and /or the fact that the climb keeps "giving" you holes just when you need them.
That's a good point about all the pockets when you need them. It's one thing about the Stronghold area in general that I like so much - tons of pockets on many of the routes.
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Echoing again the Stonghold is awesome, had a great day there yesterday with Gavin, Mikayla, and Cole.
Second Glance & Scaling the Ramparts are especially good. Thank you for the great development of those Gavin!
Great Minds was unfortunately too wet to climb yesterday.
Heres some picture of Mikayla cruising up Into the Breach as I was lowering off Holding the Line.
Thanks for putting those up Gavin, JC&KC, and Brad!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53468101547_49d55ba826_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53468101542_75ed58ba8d_c.jpg)
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Those are some good shots Marco - guidebook worthy even imo. Good aspect, body position and colorful.
I told Gavin we might have come out with you guys - had we known your plans.
Kat and I went out yesterday and climbed the two routes we finished with Brad and Jamie on Saturday. They are both "shockingly" good, well protected and fun.
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I think Mikayla should be the new Cover Girl :thumbup: :yesnod: :ihih:
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Make sure she's climbing something heinous.
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Those are some good shots Marco - guidebook worthy even imo.
Thanks! I would certainly like seeing any of my countless Pinnacles pictures ending up in the guidebook.
Make sure she's climbing something heinous.
Been racking my brain but cant think of any heinous climbs in Pinnacles, just bomber rock on fun routes from my experience.
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Been racking my brain but cant think of any heinous climbs in Pinnacles, just bomber rock on fun routes from my experience.
Marco's post-grad school career track has finally become clear: He's going to become a Turd Merchant.
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Marco's post-grad school career track has finally become clear: He's going to become a Turd Merchant.
I would love that! Unfortunately the market is oversaturated by turd merchants wrt to Pinnacles, thus there is currently no openings to sling choss at the moment.
Additionally trying to see the light at the end of the tunnel for this quarter much less the next half decade.
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I would love that! Unfortunately the market is oversaturated by turd merchants wrt to Pinnacles, thus there is currently no openings to sling choss at the moment.
Watch it buddy! :incazzato:
Additionally trying to see the light at the end of the tunnel for this quarter much less the next half decade.
I'll end the suspense.
The light at the end of the tunnel is an oncoming train (or an open stretch leading to the next tunnel).
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Make sure she's climbing something heinous.
This is an excellent inside joke - Brahvo dude :ihih:
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Been racking my brain but cant think of any heinous climbs in Pinnacles, just bomber rock on fun routes from my experience
Heinous like super sick Brah.
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Marco has the sickness…
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Marco has the sickness…
It's quite sad.
He's been subject to some bad, bad influences.
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Heinous?
Beyer and Denny - Colliver routes come immediately to mind :devildevil: :arf:
From personal experience - Flies on a Pile
Brad's scary list
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No way bro. There's no heinous climbing below 5.12. Cover photo should definitely be some dude with no shirt climbing something over 5.12. ;)
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Beyer and Denny - Colliver routes come immediately to mind :devildevil: :arf:
Frick I was actually stoked to check out some Denny routes, I guess better to go in with a low bar now.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52885499040_63e4483dd3_c.jpg)
In all seriousness why not get the best route in the park on the cover? Just need to find someone willing to climb it shirtless.
Cover photo should definitely be some dude with no shirt climbing something over 5.12. ;)
Does this fit the criteria? I'm all for this being a cover.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53471819357_16cc3f4ee0_c.jpg)
Marco has the sickness…
He's been subject to some bad, bad influences.
...Yea im pretty sick 8) Bad influences pictured above
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Does this fit the criteria? I'm all for this being a cover
Bro, that's not heinous it's.......siiick!!!!!
Brah should definitely be on the cover. Then there will be no mistaken identities in the Amazon reviews.
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Does this fit the criteria? I'm all for this being a cover.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53471819357_16cc3f4ee0_c.jpg)
Nice poke Marco :thumbup: :yesnod: :lol:
Will the real Pink Giant please stand up...:ciappa:
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Brad leading (Jamie belaying)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87e5_10KvB8hn_XTw9QDR9zr4yNx4IaI-TVFjEBRzS2pvg85nI-adFDQH7NLENuzMrk1UXd4rQMaw5x2lI2GKDgEIALEMYYQ9AEDiAMPBWS7KqGM_HKPdj1wAGMMVgJQ2oLKaDtvkL0oUn8q4rkeJCb=w448-h598-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
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Cool route
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Got a few decent pics yesterday
Hole Hog
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87yfEOe6KXA2q65Q02pXUKDczI88hHgScv8QKmxsnCoTjVN6iLtrOGPGvNNjV4J9FWqIWluETUJ2tcKaiQuppUgKIYdY5C-U0H2WsV3g2q0J36vcL4_5rOF5MStz4hehfbIK2_E9yzLjYK4eBEY4tE8=w449-h598-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
Noal leads Pocket Protector
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84lr7oLnOoYH-C1UOxqPjplmI_5-Z_vIaksTrjfGseekXLUfMR_lZaTpefvDjVNOSHPgD6k15dCnD-o8CKe8ZVYZBqn7IwVDAb-ByEfFJ5vHJTD08gBFUk6zGe1FBB8uxIPPSme-G14TSce2w2E3tG9=w449-h598-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
Kat follows me on Pocket Protector
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87L7EBBD0uYa6EQavpElHsm94MCjAnexdKYO2l3CWZvnNlzFBym66vpIQK-dQAWSKI8mfBuwPJh11ZO_wz6GasKsD5-fczBw0N81qzyMHtDMu6vSdMiXVCWIO3T95atZzEbPUzo_i4ZX4nrEIFyoV21=w448-h598-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
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Nice to do the hike out to Squareblock. Had not been out there in a long time. Pocket Protector is a fun route but could use a good brushing.
Met a couple climbing outdoors for the first time. We had just finished rapping Abuela Cochinita when a guy walked up and asked if he was on the right trail to Coastanoan. After giving him directions we suggested that maybe they just climb in the High Peaks for the day and return to do Coastanoan another day. They climbed Miss Piggy and then decided they were going to hike back down to do Coastanoan.
When we left last night (45 minutes after dark) there was one car left in the in the lot and I could only think. Hope everything went OK.
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I got out with a buddy yesterday since the weather was actually pleasant and it had been dry for several days. We hit the Rolling Stones early to show of the new work, and then headed up Citadel Canyon after lunch. He did Hickam's Footle and Occam's Hairbrush, with pretty similar feelings about the ratings as had been previously agreed on. I followed on Occam's just to clean.
Here he is on Hickam's:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53498423998_3441e11fe4_b.jpg)
After heading up toward the Citadel, we decided to stop at Whitetail Rock to do Get Smart and Mission Impossible. Special thanks to Brad and especially Gavin for the bolting and rebolting out there. Here's me looking back down Get Smart. Not sure I've ever climbed as full value a pitch at this grade. It's absolutely 10a, and a full 35+ meters of it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53498573099_d2abf23e8d_b.jpg)
I got the onsight, but sadly my partner had a left hand pop off and send him flying. He got a bit scraped up, so we bailed instead of hitting Mission Impossible too.
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Isn't that Hickam's and not Ockham's in the 1st picture - with the obvious line of chunks?
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I got out with a buddy yesterday since the weather was actually pleasant and it had been dry for several days.
It was a nice few days. Looks like Pinns is in for some biblical stuff this week. What climbs you got next on your list?
sadly my partner had a left hand pop off
Sounds painful hopefully they can get a prosthetic.
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Apparently Marco has some new toys?
But does he really have them if he hasn't posted pics?
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Isn't that Hickam's and not Ockham's in the 1st picture - with the obvious line of chunks?
Yes. I edited the post after realizing I'd swapped them mentally. Additionally, while I remember it feeling solid last year, that block next to the inside of his right thigh was loose enough on his ascent that we trundled it. I guess winter has already effected the route?
@noal, I definitely want to get on Mission Impossible, and The Flying None was on our "maybe we'll get to it" list too. I also had Lava Falls on the list but didn't get to it before the raptor closures, and Brad has now filled me in on some other awesome stuff at The Stronghold out there, so probably those things?
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If you are looking for good 5.10s and get a chance climb Get a Grip out at the Frog. Best 10b at Pinns. It's choice.
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New route name: Noal on a Roll.
I damn near spit out my water at the "prosthetic" comment. And Vicki laughed too. Even though that's a common way to say what she was saying.
And yeah, he's right. I can't think of a better 10b in the Park than Get a Grip.
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It did occur to me that there were two ways to interpret that sentence, yes. ;D
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Robotic partner issues :)
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Additionally, while I remember it feeling solid last year, that block next to the inside of his right thigh was loose enough on his ascent that we trundled it. I guess winter has already effected the route?
I don't think "winter" affects Pinnacles routes much in terms of deterioration. The water does more to chemically harden the rock in water streaks. Freeze-thaw would be a factor if water flowing down the route froze (not impossible but not likely in the Pinnacles "desert"). Diurnal cycles (thin frost) won't do much either. That lodestone looks virtually detached in the picture (I see no embedment). It's amazing that you or Brad didn't knock it off during the FA. Glad you got that thing off of there. The rest of those chunks look nice and I'll be curious to see how the route climbs - looks fun.
Nice job on Get Smart.
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I also had Lava Falls on the list but didn't get to it before the raptor closures, and Brad has now filled me in on some other awesome stuff at The Stronghold out there, so probably those things?
The Balconies and Stonghold are great, many "full value" climbs there. I would say it's worthwhile getting rid of the pesky birds to be able to climb there year round.
Apparently Marco has some new toys?
But does he really have them if he hasn't posted pics?
I have lots of toys as I'm a child, hopefully I get the chance to use them and then post action pictures.
Had a great Sunday with friends on the East Side. Got on the classic local favorite test piece, Triangle Skirt. It was my friend's return to climbing after over a year break. As one would imagine, by the time he got to the first piece to clean I had already squashed his stoke and he said thats the last time he follows me anywhere in Pinns...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53501453659_402925df2e_c.jpg)
Fortunately a shadowy figure appeared from the top of the cliff and lowered down a rope on the 3 star 11a next to us. It was Gavin! He must have used his sixth sense to tell people were not having a great time and was there to fix the situation. We watched as he cruised up the 11 as a chill warmup for him. In no time his magic had worked and we all had toproped the great climb. We followed him to Discovery where he lead Pistol Whipped with ease and then ran laps on Verdict. He then summoned a condor and was picked up to go back home... ok maybe not the last part but if you do have the chance to climb with this mythical Pinnacles Hardman, take the opportunity, you will not regret the great day.
Also saw some bugs or something..
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53501301708_f5495382f8_c.jpg)
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He then summoned a condor and was picked up to go back home...
Thanks for the laugh on what I hope is one of my last stressful days ever at work. You're pretty funny for a kid.
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The Balconies and Stonghold are great, many "full value" climbs there. I would say it's worthwhile getting rid of the pesky birds to be able to climb there year round.
I've always wanted a t-shirt that says "Climbing Closures are for the birds"
It was my friend's return to climbing after over a year break. As one would imagine, by the time he got to the first piece to clean I had already squashed his stoke and he said thats the last time he follows me anywhere in Pinns...
From the Pinnacles Potent Quotables collection;
"Pinnacles is not climbing. Pinnacles is a ridiculous obstacle course..."
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Randolph, the red faced condor…
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So, most members on here know Jim and most know that Geoff started calling Jim "Gandalf," and most members think that the sobriquet fits well.
If Jim is Gandalf and Gavin rides with condors, which Lord of the Rings figure is Gavin?
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Not sure, but when I return you know what you can call it.
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when I return you know what you can call it.
The Hell freezes Over Tour? (oh sorry - that's eagles not condors).
Or did you mean the Return of the Clingon? :ciappa:
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I should bite your typing finger off.
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Yeah bugs.
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53501301708_f5495382f8_c.jpg[/img]
We saw some clustered ladybugs like this too. I also took photos, but didn't upload them. I assume it's an overwintering behavior?
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He then summoned a condor and was picked up to go back home... ok maybe not the last part but if you do have the chance to climb with this mythical Pinnacles Hardman, take the opportunity, you will not regret the great day.
Wow I don't think I quite deserve that praise but thanks! It was great to climb with you guys too! I was thinking more along the lines of, "yikes, I'm out of shape..."
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Special thanks to Brad and especially Gavin for the bolting and rebolting out there. Here's me looking back down Get Smart. Not sure I've ever climbed as full value a pitch at this grade. It's absolutely 10a, and a full 35+ meters of it.
That's awesome that you enjoyed Get Smart and got it clean - great job! Bummer about your friend falling due to a lost hold - the rock quality overall is great but there are still a few loose knobs. I'm glad for any that get removed.
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We saw some clustered ladybugs like this too. I also took photos, but didn't upload them. I assume it's an overwintering behavior?
I think so - I believe the ladybugs are clustering to stay warm during a winter stopover. This is the largest concentration we have had for them during the winter in a number of years.
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Is there any clustering happening on cold days? Noal, KC, Brad, Bap and Waldo look potentially warm. JC, Mud and Jim, not so much. Aaron and Geoff are definitely warm. Maybe this is why Gavin often rope solos?
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Cluster THIS clink :ciappa:
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:) I thought that might furrow the substantial escarpment of your brow.
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Dave Harden followed Caleb up Burtons Below today to climb The Flatiron 50 years after the first time he climbed the formation. The last names in the summit register were Marco and Mikayla. Slooowwly the generational shift continues.
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I lost track of the exact number, but well over 250 years of climbing experience in the High Peaks today. Three of the old men have each been climbing with each other for over 50 years apiece. Warm but good day.
Now for the barbecue down by the river.
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“I lost track…”, me tooo.
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Had a great weekend doing some fun routes questing for mud with Cole. Went searching for mud and all we found was bomber rock, albeit we found plenty of moss and runouts. We did end up getting soaked at Goat rock on Monday, but it was worth to do Gavin's great routes up there. Some of the half decent pics from this weekend below.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54135570818_e858ccccdf_c.jpg)
Cole leading P2 of Salathe Hand.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54135621619_f86326b4be_c.jpg)
Cole on HSMM.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54134049359_18ddae1b36_c.jpg)
Cole on P1 of Resurrection Wall.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54133706531_8d21fd8a71_c.jpg)
Cole on P2 of Resurrection Wall.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54135788085_74c70e0254_c.jpg)
Cole on P3 of Resurrection Wall.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54135615858_575845bd8b_c.jpg)
Cole at p3 belay of Resurrection Wall.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54133706491_d08ef4efb9_c.jpg)
Cole on P4 of Resurrection Wall.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54135743305_d79ae82b21_c.jpg)
Moments before I regret having a puffer and not a rain jacket.
You may notice the theme that I'm always using my phone when "belaying".
Hope these pics not seeming spam like, fun looking back at past posts and going 'darn forgot about that fun weekend'.
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👍👍👍👍💪💪💪💪💪
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Damn Marco - you two are doing a spectacular job of continuing the quest.
Thanks for sharing. :thumbup: :guitar: :arf:
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Action packed weekend! Nice!
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Great work on Resurecction! Holmgren and I spent most of a morning back in '91 trying to free that second pitch. No dice. Coming out of aid below the belay was an eye-opener, however.
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You two make a strong team. Way to get after it!
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Classics! Nice to see that no effective cure has been developed yet.
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Thanks for stoke guys! Also thanks for all those replacing bolts, its very nice to do older routes with bomber stuff to clip.
Holmgren and I spent most of a morning back in '91 trying to free that second pitch. No dice.
Got by butt kicked trying to free it and ended up whipping a couple times on the first 11a bulge. Cole however is a machine and got every pitch clean.
Higgins was a beast doing that 45+ years ago.
Classics! Nice to see that no effective cure has been developed yet.
It gets worse every year...
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Took six students from the SCU Climbing Club out on Saturday.
They thoroughly enjoyed The Long and Short of It, Out of Sight, and Out of Mind. The chaos of the Tourist Trap and one of the students asking "is this the main climbing area in the park?" was the perfect set up for an afternoon hike up to Aftershock, where we had solitude and great views of all they places they could go on subsequent trips. We got two routes in there and hiked out at the golden hour, getting back to the cars at Manzanita just as it was getting "dark dark".
It was the second trip out for one of them, but for the rest it was their first time climbing at the park.
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I guess I'm the first one to go questing this year! I went with Elaine who posts occasionally for two days on the West Side. We got in somewhat later than I do sometimes yesterday morning and headed for The Stronghold! I've done the hike in to the Flumes/Balconies area a few times, so it was just a matter of getting out past that and finding our way to Crowley Towers. I missed one obvious turn-off, but quickly found our way back onto the main trail, and headed past If We Bolt It They Will Come. More hiking took us into site of the Towers, as well as two condors occupying the top of Tower Three.
We hit the split between Point Five and Tower One, and paused to poke around a bit, before figuring out we needed to backtrack a dozen meters and head down slope. Having gotten down to about The Joy of Hooking, we could see another party, which was somewhat surprising. When we got down to them, we discovered they had finished Great Minds (5.10a) and Second Opinion (5.10c), and were off to Scaling The Ramparts (2-pitch, 5.11a). We followed from left to right, and found all three routes very good, when Second Opinion being my favorite. I found the movement through the second crux near the top especially engaging.
We spent the night in Soledad, and headed back to the park in the morning. This time, I had my eye on Lava Falls (2-pitch, 5.9). We hiked back in, found the climber's trail opposite Upper Toog's, marched past Smiling Simian, and were deposited at the base. Looking up at this thing, it's both very cool and somewhat intimidating. From the ground, I can see three bolts before the water chute eases up to a slabbier angle for a bit. Figuring I can at least manage that, and be pretty safe, I rack up and head out with Elaine on belay. Well, it wasn't an onsight, folks. I took a few times. And got to the crux and bailed. So, if anybody wants a ratty biner, it's all yours. But the climbing's fantastic, and it was mental not physical issues keeping me from at least getting to the top of that first long pitch. So now I have a goal.
Elaine was uninterested in following after me, and decided to give Full Circle (3-pitch, 5.10d) a try instead, up to the right on the same face. She found some of the rock quality suspect, also bailing. Having spend some significant time between our two aborted attempts, we looked for some low hanging fruit in our general vicinity, and ended the day on Walk the Plank (5.6) and Overboard (5.7) on Chockstone Dome near the entrance to the Balconies Caves. They're both short routes on a feature dominated by the Balconies and Machete Ridge, but it was nice to end the day doing something chill. I thought the traverse on Walk the Plank was especially nice.
Anyway, there are photos of some of the mud coming, but it's bedtime now, so feel free to liven up the place with your responses, and I'll post photos tomorrow.
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Nice routes and, on day two, nice efforts. There was a party of two at The Stronghold on Monday, the day you were at Lava Falls. It's nice to see the area getting some traffic.
And, given your promise to post photos, I'll avoid for now the "invalid without pictures" observation.
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I had a very productive six days, down there starting New Year's Eve. Among many, many photos for the book, I got this of The Citadel:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54252429963_fa7243b42f_b.jpg)
And while at this spot I took a close-up of the climbers on Costanoan. They are visible in the previous photo too. I later saw this crew at parking and air-dropped shots of them to them. they were pretty pleased.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54252196846_fc59fb57c4_b.jpg)
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I had a very productive six days, down there starting New Year's Eve. Among many, many photos for the book, I got this of The Citadel:
Already on Citadel pictures?! This book is on track to be out by the next time I climb SPH ;)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54252429963_fa7243b42f_b.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54252196846_fc59fb57c4_b.jpg)
Nice pictures, almost looks like they are party of three but on one rope.
Your citadel picture is much better than the recent picture I added to MP:
(https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/200300373_medium_1734899052_topo.jpg?cache=1735860636)
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^^^
I had to work pretty hard to get into position to take the photo and I suspect that your shot wasn't as high a priority for you?
And your photo has an incorrect finish for Anasazi.
EDIT: And yes, a party of three on one rope. Experienced leader, experienced lowest follower and a completely new upper follower. All on one glow in the dark, red rope.
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I had to work pretty hard to get into position to take the photo and I suspect that your shot wasn't as high a priority for you?
Nice angle for sure. Is that the base of the Tidbits in the Citadel picture? Uphill from Torso and barely visible?
And your photo has an incorrect finish for Anasazi.
Aw shoot, I have yet to do it but thought that it mostly stayed in the groove until it got to the ledge with Costanoan and The Flying None anchors?
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Aw shoot, I have yet to do it but thought that it mostly stayed in the groove until it got to the ledge with Costanoan and The Flying None anchors?
Yes, this is correct. Your purple line shows it finishing too straight up at the very top of the line.
Both people that climb this route in the next 100 years will look for a slight revision to your photo?
;D :P
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Brad, I love that photo of The Citadel! As you know, Costanoan was my first multi, so the formation has some sentiment attached for me. The weather is good, the light looks great, there aren't any awkward shadows or anything, and you can see the party on the route, as well as Whitetail Rock below. Beautiful.
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what's the arete to the left of Costanoan (separate rib of rock)?
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Photo dump incoming! We've got Stronghold stuff below, starting with just one of the Condor sightings on (I think?) Tower Three.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54253797130_6b7a6643f5_z.jpg)
The lines for first Great Minds and then Second Opinion (direct start visible, with Elaine on lead):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54253613304_7fd4db052b_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54252476162_f520c8a9c3_z.jpg)
The view from where I bailed on Lava Falls:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54253797800_a173134c2b_z.jpg)
And the southwest end of Machete Ridge as seen from the base of The Powers That Be:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54253798615_ae16722a47_z.jpg)
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It really is hard to get a shot of Great Minds that doesn't foreshorten it to (an apparent) 40 feet.
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what's the arete to the left of Costanoan (separate rib of rock)?
It's your next project "Mungie's Folly"
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Seems reasonable; name and value. lol
Getting to it may be the tick infested hell thrutch, but nothing is too good for old Mungie!
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Now that you've pointed it out, I'm surprised nobody's done something on it yet.
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Next week may be able to check it out.
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Random story time
On 4/4/21 I met Brad and BAP for the first time while they were working on The Flying None. I was taking my buddy (more brother at this point) on his 2nd ever multi, his first being Rebeccas Sailing earlier that day.
The climb went uneventful. While setting up the rap on the Costanoan P3 anchor I watched his phone slide out of view into the void. We got down to the P1 ledge and I slung that bush on the ledge and lowered him down into that notable gully to the left of Costanoan. Before finding his phone he recovered another working iphone and the helmet that I use to this day (I need a new helmet now but is $50 worth your brain? - idk).
Point being if someone were to go develop that I bet the route would pay for itself in booty.
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/me rubs his hands together with $$ for eyes.
Booo TAY!
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So, if anybody wants a ratty biner, it's all yours.
She found some of the rock quality suspect, also bailing.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54263599643_eb3140cce7_c.jpg)
Booo TAY!
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Wow, ratty indeed!
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For the first few years I climbed I used only this style biners on my alpines and draws. After talking to Bart about gate flutter and hearing of his accident I switched to mostly wiregates on my draws. So now these are likely going in the ratty biner collection, I suspect they are to rarely see the light of day again.
EDIT:
does anyone use this trick for bailing off a solid bolt or would some consider it unwise?
(https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/110228908_medium_1494368713.jpg?cache=1701318835)
Use it whenever bailing these days because the other safer alternative is to leave draws behind on the previous two bolts not just current
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For the first few years I climbed I used only this style biners on my alpines and draws. After talking to Bart about gate flutter and hearing of his accident I switched to mostly wiregates on my draws. So now these are likely going in the ratty biner collection, I suspect they are to rarely see the light of day again.
EDIT:
does anyone use this trick for bailing off a solid bolt or would some consider it unwise?
(https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/110228908_medium_1494368713.jpg?cache=1701318835)
Use it whenever bailing these days because the other safer alternative is to leave draws behind on the previous two bolts not just current
So are you lowering off of just one bolt with this technique? If so, I'm not sure I see much advantage over leaving a carabiner or screwlink instead... except that you can't retrieve your leaver. With your technique here, you have less rope to work with - a third of the total rope distance instead of half - and the fabric-on-fabric friction seems likely to compromise the integrity of the sling eventually... which is probably worth more than the leaver biner.
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How does that hot dog fit through the hanger?
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I use/used that style of rappel bail method for shorter routes and only on solid bolts. Since I replace my slings over time, the longevity point that Gavin raises isn't too much of an issue if using nylon rather than dyneema since I'd inspect and swap out my sling before I'd wear out a carabiner. Else, sacrificed non-wire gate carabiners on the last and or last two bolts when the high point is longer. :)
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So are you lowering off of just one bolt with this technique? If so, I'm not sure I see much advantage over leaving a carabiner or screwlink instead... except that you can't retrieve your leaver. With your technique here, you have less rope to work with - a third of the total rope distance instead of half - and the fabric-on-fabric friction seems likely to compromise the integrity of the sling eventually... which is probably worth more than the leaver biner.
I guess I hadn't thought about the fabric on fabric aspect much but that is a a great point. Like you mentioned I typically use it for 20m raps or less. Though I suppose even if you use it 3/4 times before the sling is compromised it monetarily covers the cost in lost leaver biners.
How does that hot dog fit through the hanger?
The trick is to use kielbasa ;)
I use/used that style of rappel bail method for shorter routes and only on solid bolts. Since I replace my slings over time, the longevity point that Gavin raises isn't too much of an issue if using nylon rather than dyneema since I'd inspect and swap out my sling before I'd wear out a carabiner. Else, sacrificed non-wire gate carabiners on the last and or last two bolts when the high point is longer. :)
Great point with the Nylon since it has a much higher melting temperature. Though due to the larger thickness it is probably harder to get under the biner that is currently weighted when switching from your PAS to rap.
HowNot2 does lots of fantastic climbing gear testing videos if anyone is unfamiliar. I couldnt find the video on youtube but found this on instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C6g7fTdxTBb/?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ%3D%3D (https://www.instagram.com/reel/C6g7fTdxTBb/?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ%3D%3D)
Even with a 40lb weight (much less than just a rope) you can pull 1000's of ft on a dyneema sling without breaking it.
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When dealing with the usual suspects, I became a 2 bolt, 2 biner booty leaver.
Solid bolt? Isn’t that what a confirmed bachelor does when his girlfriend starts talking about commitment?
Back on topic, the answer is ‘unwise’. Not that I haven’t done it.
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Even new carabiners are cheap.
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From time to time, I come back here just to confirm that the forum is still alive and kicking. It IS!
does anyone use this trick for bailing off a solid bolt or would some consider it unwise?
https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/110228908_medium_1494368713.jpg?cache=1701318835 (https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/110228908_medium_1494368713.jpg?cache=1701318835)
Use it whenever bailing these days because the other safer alternative is to leave draws behind on the previous two bolts not just current
I'm especially pleased to find this post because I'm always interested in seeing new innovative ideas. I like it that someone is able to twist their mind enough to come up with this bail method without leaving a biner behind and without needing a Beal Escaper.
.. - and the fabric-on-fabric friction seems likely to compromise the integrity of the sling eventually... which is probably worth more than the leaver biner.
Even new carabiners are cheap.
I agree with both Gavin and Brad, but still an idea is an idea, so I'll entertain it. How about instead of using a sling through the biner, use a rivet hanger folded over. Of course you make sure the connection points (swages) are on the retrieval side of the hanger. It's stronger, will not be weakened by pulling the rope through, should be easier to retrieve (back out of the hanger) than a folded over sling, light weight to carry on harness all the time and who knows, someday, might be the only gear that can provide protection on an old route when you come up to a bolt without a hanger.
(https://hownot2.com/cdn/shop/files/1-Standard.png)
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How much specialized "junk" are you willing to carry to every crag because you might need it one in a hundred times? How much is your time worth? Even screw-gates are heavy and extra. Just leave a carabiner.
In your case, Mudworm, we need you. You make sure you just leave 'biner any time you need to be safe and then send me the bill. I'll gladly pay for a carabiner if it means keeping you out of danger.
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LOL. Thanks Brad, but you can't call rivet hanger "junk"!
While I myself am quite willing to use this Texas Rope Trick (https://www.hownot2.info/post/texas-rope-trick), I know without a doubt that my partner would shutdown that thought. One time we did need to bail off of one (bomber) hanger and he left a screwgate locking biner. A working LOCKING biner!!! Ugh. Pretty sure my utility biner would have been fine.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54263599643_eb3140cce7_c.jpg)
Nice! These came from some stashed mess at a crag on 108 I hiked into with Brad last month. Did you send, or just go up to get the freebies?
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Nice! These came from some stashed mess at a crag on 108 I hiked into with Brad last month.
It took me a minute to realize that you were being serious and that these were those carabiners. Given what I know about that crag and who likely left them, these could be 40 years old or even older. I assume you tossed the rotted nylon in the trash?
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^^^
The same crag at which we found rotted, plastic gallon jugs (sun rotted and now empty) and these damn things, which were still full (and yes, the single finger is intended as an editorial):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54267034371_a180dafd93_c.jpg)
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It took me a minute to realize that you were being serious and that these were those carabiners. Given what I know about that crag and who likely left them, these could be 40 years old or even older. I assume you tossed the rotted nylon in the trash?
Absolutely. The soft goods went straight in the trash, but these were perfectly fine for bail gear. The beer photo is cracking me up though.
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Even new carabiners are cheap.
Its all relative. If I were to bail on two new carabiners there goes 1% of my monthly income (even higher % for the next few months :( ).
Did you send, or just go up to get the freebies?
Yes.
Mikayla + Gavin were responsible for the Full Circle booty.
(https://hownot2.com/cdn/shop/files/1-Standard.png)
I really like this idea. Though I thought cinch rivet hangers only rated for a few kN which I would think might be weakened when bent in half. I'm sure it would be fine but that would be on my mind the whole abseil.
I'm especially pleased to find this post because I'm always interested in seeing new innovative ideas.
I love that this site is quite supportive. Unlike mountain project where every genuine question quickly get derailed, sometimes becoming debates on grammar and punctuation.
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How many formations in this pic?
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and 2nd question, how many routes?
8)
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I just got back from two days in the park with my partner, Hung, and we had a lot of fun. He's always been somewhere between a little bit and much stronger than me, but not anymore. I've climbed a fair bit since we returned from Greece in November, and he hadn't. Oh well, what can you do? We still had fun.
We had avoided Discovery Wall in our early forays into the park because of its mixed nature, featuring very few true sport lines. But now we've had some trad adventures, some formations are closed, and so we decided to spend Sunday there. He followed me on everything, starting with Swallow Crack, then Ordeal before putting the rack away. Both of these are genuinely great. The fixed pins seem to be in good shape, and the movement is fun, especially on Ordeal. The rest of the day consisted of some sportier climbs. I learned the mantle on Stupendous Man while some very impressed gym bros watched. We put up their top rope for them. I tried to use the big inclusions just left of the bolt with a high left foot first, and found it undoable. Then I moved further left to sa couple of big divots, and went high right foot instead. This worked much better, but everyone who followed after me kept insisting on trying it the first way. Funnily enough, while that's definitely the single hardest move, there is some face climbing above that's pretty thin and delicate that shouldn't be discounted.
I then moved on to trying Broken Arrow. Wow, the distance to the first bolt is no joke, even if the climbing is easy up to there. I understand that the rock isn't super solid below it, and it's maybe 5.5 climbing, but I do think this is scaring folks off of getting on this route more often. SO many of the ticks on MP are top rope solos for, I think, this reason. I found the rest of the route hard but not impossible. There are several pretty thin moves, a few awkward weight transfers, and it was pretty tiring. Somehow the last few moves on the direct variation felt more doable, but maybe getting into it is the 11b section.
Finally, we spent some time on Wet Kiss, which is absurdly fun for 5.9. The mantle moves require commitment, and the moves on the inclusions in the last third are good fun face climbing. There's definitely potential for a bad time if you blew it before the second bolt, but I agree that spending time trying to place a piece in between is probably not worth the effort.
We overnighted in Hollister since the park wouldn't rent us a campsite unless we were there for the whole three-day weekend (seriously, someone needs to buy some land near the entrance and start making bank) and came back Monday morning. We'd kind of decided to have a chill day at The Sisters, but stopped at The Monolith on the way, and never went any further. I redpointed Terranean Tango after hanging on it a few times two years ago, which felt pretty good. We were chilling and watching some less experienced folks working their way through some stuff. I considered jumping on the Direct Route at some point (why am I suddenly so willing to run it out?), but decided to put a lap on POD first.
I'd top roped it twice two years ago, and not been back somehow. Jumping on on lead, I'm definitely stronger than I was then. I went from the ground to bolt 2, and from bolt 4 to the top cleanly. I just really need to work out beta in between. I set it up as a top rope for Hung, intending to top rope to try and get more sequence specific afterward. He struggled more than expected, and then, falling about halfway up, managed to smash a couple of fingers inbetween the rope and the rock, or maybe behind a draw. We're not sure what happened, honestly, but the tension added to the rope from his fall put some force somewhere it wasn't ideal. He bruised up two fingers pretty well, and was bleeding more than I've ever seen from a climbing injury. It was ultimately pretty minor, but put an end to the rest of our day. He cleaned himself up while I ascended the rope to clean it. Being able to fix the line to one of the ground anchor bolts was very handy.
After that, we packed up and headed out. Kind of a bummer, as I did really want to get another run on POD as well as maybe try either Direct or Regular Route. I've got a few photos I'll post later, as always, but it was nice to get out in the park this weekend. I will say, we saw LOTS of very green climbers out. Folks wandering around Discovery Wall looking for things that didn't need trad gear, folks expressing fear at leading anything and only willing to climb top ropes their friends put up, etc. I know I was this climber not that long ago, but it really feels like my perspective has shifted some.
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^^^
Sounds like a great two days. Thanks for the report.
As nice as it all sounds, as you've already recognized in your last paragraph...
Invalid without photos >:D :P
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^^^
Sounds like a great two days. Thanks for the report.
As nice as it all sounds, as you've already recognized in your last paragraph...
Invalid without photos >:D :P
Uploading photos while I'm a work is kind of a no go...Anyway.
Hung's about to hit the 30' free hanging section of the rappel off Swallow Crack here. I really appreciate how good the rap anchor is here.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54337008430_c2fb279655_z.jpg)
I enjoyed being able to spy the person standing on top of Teaching Rock in this one.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54336816558_e26a67ba8a_z.jpg)
As I said before, there's a lot of air between that first bolt and the ground on Broken Arrow!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54336816543_e29faaaa2c_z.jpg)
And finally, I really liked this photo that gives you a great view of Bear Gulch, with another climber visible top roping Between a Rock and a Hard Place.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54336804924_3974b3a8e1_z.jpg)
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OK, valid.
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I have been walking and moving about without the cane today - first day without using it at all after slowly cutting back. Still some stiffness and slightly, slightly tender. Today is only two weeks since I got wacked.
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Thanks for TR! Discovery’s trad is nice for breaking up the awful monotony of clipping bolts ;-)
No cane and able. Good news!
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He bruised up two fingers pretty well, and was bleeding more than I've ever seen from a climbing injury.
At least his finger didn't pop off.
Nice photos!
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No cane and able.
Wittiest person on the site for sure.
This one got me chuckling.
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Hung's about to hit the 30' free hanging section of the rappel off Swallow Crack here. I really appreciate how good the rap anchor is here.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54337008430_c2fb279655_z.jpg)
Agreed on anchor, thanks JC (and Clint, Bruce, Dan) for making that anchor safe and easy for descending.
For my first 2-3 or so years of climbing I didn't use a prussic when abseiling (idiot). One of my most vivid climbing memories is being right where Hung is and pushing off the roof and accidentally loosening my grip on the brake with my other hand. Only dropped maybe 15 ft in a second but if it wasn't for being gripped and gripping the rope it would've gone another way. Once again I was an idiot (still am) but it was a good learning moment to use a third hand.
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LOL. Thanks Brad, but you can't call rivet hanger "junk"!
While I myself am quite willing to use this Texas Rope Trick (https://www.hownot2.info/post/texas-rope-trick), I know without a doubt that my partner would shutdown that thought. One time we did need to bail off of one (bomber) hanger and he left a screwgate locking biner. A working LOCKING biner!!! Ugh. Pretty sure my utility biner would have been fine.
Having one or two hardware store screw gates for bailing is a cheap alternative. The types that are sometimes used at anchors.
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I have been walking and moving about without the cane today - first day without using it at all after slowly cutting back. Still some stiffness and slightly, slightly tender. Today is only two weeks since I got wacked.
What happened?
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I set it up as a top rope for Hung, intending to top rope to try and get more sequence specific afterward. He struggled more than expected
Had to add insult to injury. Brutal
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What happened?
I'm really f#$king old.
Also, a hold broke as noted in this thread above and I hit a ledge hard on the way down (in Joshua Tree, although you immediately thought Pinnacles when you saw that a hold broke).
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And finally, I really liked this photo that gives you a great view of Bear Gulch, with another climber visible top roping Between a Rock and a Hard Place.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54336804924_3974b3a8e1_z.jpg)
That is Mikayla getting belayed by Gavin or Ryan. Those must've been the "very green climbers" you were referring to.
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Whoever that “very green” lady is I’d say she makes top roping look good.
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Gamora sightings?
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Whoever that “very green” lady is I’d say she makes top roping look good.
Oh wow, funny that I was right next to y'all and didn't even know it. No, you weren't one of the groups I was thinking of who were clearly pretty early in their journey.
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When people ask me how long I've been climbing I always tell them I just started. If they press the issue I say since 9 am this morning.
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So you have dementia but are a quick learner.
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Somethin' like that with a dash of the movie Groundhog's Day.
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So you have dementia but are a quick learner.
I think Marco might have a bit of a grudge about Dementia. Which would put Mikayla Between a Rock and a Hard Place.
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I think Marco might have a bit of a grudge about Dementia. Which would put Mikayla Between a Rock and a Hard Place.
Holy hell what knee slapper.
My grudge is with Gavin. He set the route after all.
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Holy hell what knee slapper.
My grudge is with Gavin. He set the route after all.
One doesn't "set" real routes.
God, you are just a damn kid. We're gonna have to figure out just what to do with you....
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I was able to take the girls out on the old railroad grade today. Only half a mile out and back ("normal" is a mile and a half outbound and then back). I think I'll be about back to normal in a week or so (Clink will now question what "normal" is in this context, or if such a thing can even be).
There's beginning to be a hint of spring out there. Which means that we'll have to finally get one good snowstorm before that season actually arrives.
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One doesn't "set" real routes.
God, you are just a damn kid. We're gonna have to figure out just what to do with you....
Nice try, I've been to a gym (where the realest routes are). I know the movement on a route is a direct reflection on the character of the developer.
In this case any injury on the route is also a reflection on the developer as well.
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^^^
Every time I hear from you and or see your posts I get to reflect: "yep, this kid really is extraordinary."
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Extraordinarily bad as shown by the routes I've set ;)
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Set? Geez! God set those routes!
As far as a Pinnacles Climbing is concerned, that is Gavin.
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Set? Geez! God set those routes!
As far as a Pinnacles Climbing is concerned, that is Gavin.
This is exactly right^
I probably shouldn't be admitting this as it was told to me in confidence by Gavin... He said the true crux of climbing at Pinnacles for him is creating these formations and routes, then having to wait a while to pretend to discover them. Ever wonder why all his routes are phenomenal? Much like Brad he has a list, only this is undeveloped 3 star routes in the park. He just takes time between FAs as not to raise suspicion.
You found and started Dementia but Gavin knew it was there since he created it. He was just biding his time waiting for the excuse to work on yet another 3 star route, without raising any red flags of course.
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Is Pinnacles Monotheistic or Polytheistic? If there are multiple gods who are they and what are they gods of?
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Is Pinnacles Monotheistic or Polytheistic? If there are multiple gods who are they and what are they gods of?
And if the answer to any of these queries is "yes," is the reservoir created by a God dam?
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In reference to the reservoir dam, I theorize this is deeply steeped in conspiracy. We must get to the bottom of it, as draining as it will be!
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Marco, you are also right. Most, if not all religions have 3 star elements and multiple red flags.
The Creation that is Pinnacles on the other hand, north from the mountains south of the Hand, to a short jog beyond where the Great Minds thought their great thoughts, is completely pure and wholly worshipable.
Let’s pause for a moment while JC pukes into a hand hewn stone cistern.
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Is Pinnacles Monotheistic or Polytheistic? If there are multiple gods who are they and what are they gods of?
I am like God but different
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I am like God but different
You do have a beard....
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Marco, you are also right. Most, if not all religions have 3 star elements and multiple red flags.
The Creation that is Pinnacles on the other hand, north from the mountains south of the Hand, to a short jog beyond where the Great Minds thought their great thoughts, is completely pure and wholly worshipable.
Let’s pause for a moment while JC pukes into a hand hewn stone cistern.
Hand hewn stone cistern? One of my not infrequent failed bolt holes?
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Your holes did improve when you stopped using your acorn pestle and switched to a proper hammer. To think of all the time that we save now compared to your early days climbing. No more selecting the perfect strong limb to fit in a tediously drilled mortar, days of gathering and braiding vines.
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We Neanderthals favor acorn pestles for bolting and back-scratching. They're great for acorns, too.
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We Neanderthals favor acorn pestles for bolting and back-scratching.
If only I had half of your skills.
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If only I had half of your skills.
You would still only scratch the surface.
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:)
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So nice, hiking to the High Peaks with two women who have each spent many years as backpacking guides.
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So nice, hiking to the High Peaks with two women who have each spent many years as backpacking guides.
No need to wait for anyone and their multitude of little pauses and rests?
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No need to carry anything other than my personal gear.
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Climbing The Unmentionable with Katie and her adult female friend was… very interesting.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54376659764_3a11950daf_b.jpg)
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Climbing The Unmentionable with Katie and her adult female friend was… very interesting.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54376659764_3a11950daf_b.jpg)
Did she ask to do that formation in particular?
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I remember the day I topped that fondly. Something that aesthetic begs to get your hands on it.
I came up from the reservoir, so there was lots of bush on the way the base. My friend and I took turns sitting on top of it.
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Did she ask to do that formation in particular?
Nope. They had a long, long drive back to Truckee and wanted something classic, easy and quick. Jesus, even some of the words I just typed could fit into some of their… uh, comments.
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Nope. They had a long, long drive back to Truckee and wanted something classic, easy and quick. Jesus, even some of the words I just typed could fit into some of their… uh, comments.
It isn't the longest or the hardest but certainly has its own character making it worthwhile to get up.
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You crack yourself up, don’t you?
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Constantly. You've spent enough time with me to know that though.
Was there still missing hangers on the 5.9 on that formation?
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One hanger was missing (top bolt).
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You’re worried about missing hangers? Did you happen to notice that ALL of the foreskin appears to be missing?
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You’re worried about missing hangers? Did you happen to notice that ALL of the foreskin appears to be missing?
That's to encourage cleanliness.