MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: Aaron McDonald on May 17, 2015, 09:07:32 AM
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(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-An48bac-Dm4/VVgBI3qah_I/AAAAAAAAflI/XtBzdN4E1Gk/w1598-h899-no/20150516_165459.jpg)
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It's hard to tell with that damn hand in the way, but it might be some type of granite?
;D ;D
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(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f-ZEEDJfdu0/VVgBNTvRZWI/AAAAAAAAfmA/WhfwTjnQ-KY/w1598-h899-no/20150516_165640.jpg)
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It worked!
No hooks.
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It's hard to tell with that damn hand in the way, but it might be some type of granite?
;D ;D
What the Sam Hill? You abandoned your drill? That is so cold.
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Invalid without details....
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You abandoned your drill?
Somewhere between torture and insanity.
Aaron, you have practiced free-cling.
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Hey there lonely drill holder...someone left you all alone...where are you?
Guess you are invalid. Sorry.
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Invalid without details....
De tails
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Mainly raw fingerpads from working steeper stuff with holds breaking, then a redirect start to the left. Details; Find a stance from which to drill as high and to the right as possible. Then right foot on large chip, left hand on small hold for balance, right hand in medium pocket side-pull, step thru with left foot. Extend to left finger stack, high step right foot above waist and way over into good pocket, Reach extremely far to large side-pull hole on right, crank off these two excellent holds to one of two left jug pockets 4+ft above. (Or if you are Mudworm, just float up like a ballerina. BTW congrats on your 12!)
Hang on these, wack on drill as long as you are able switching positions on jugs to rest varying limbs. Reverse moves(or drop). Let your partner go up and gain another 1/8 to 1/4 inch of hole depth. Repeat a dozen times until hole is half drilled. Come back soon with any fool who can be roped in to participate, all are welcome, seats are given free.
Aaron excels at this(mild retardation with a touch of masochism). Or possessed? But then again this rock is McConachie and Mr Mud territory, so in the norm.
Waldo, you and Jack would be proud to see him work. It will take a harder route than this to get him to use a hook, but i am telling him they exist. He still does not believe even after hours of discussion.
The crux appears to be on the bulge that the jugs are at the base of, then the angle changes to much more stance-able terrain. Hope the rock holds up and we can unlock the rest of the moves.
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Brad, this contraption on Aaron's wrist may be an answer to the next bolt on the project left of Pit Viper. We hope to improve the design and market internationally. Global sales may break into double digits within the first 10 years :D
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Honestly, it looks like a lot of thought and determination went into it. Jack would be proud (much better than a striker plate on the helmet).
I look forward to seeing it in action!
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Great trip report Clink, I am still laughing!
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Honestly, it looks like a lot of thought and determination went into it. Jack would be proud (much better than a striker plate on the helmet).
I look forward to seeing it in action!
We actually discussed the striker plate as a possibility.
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Waldo, you and Jack would be proud to see him work. It will take a harder route than this to get him to use a hook, but i am telling him they exist. He still does not believe even after hours of discussion.
Do you think I came up with these crazy ideas on my own? I am just doing what you guys taught me.
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Brad, this contraption on Aaron's wrist may be an answer to the next bolt on the project left of Pit Viper. We hope to improve the design and market internationally. Global sales may break into double digits within the first 10 years :D
Is that real, or imagined? How high is the first one?
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Is that real, or imagined? How high is the first one?
On the route left of Pit Viper the first bolt is up a little ways. For the second location I had a problem with holding the bit without orienting it either into or right on the edge of a good pocket. Might be the best grip to attempt drilling off of, if no one else finishes it first. Drilling below even a protruding hold would be an advantage in some of the to steep to balance placements have been done. Wrist guard and velcro design next.
Somewhat imaginary until the hole that is now half drilled is completed and holds a lead fall.
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Is that real, or imagined? How high is the first one?
It's real. We were able to start the hole with the contraption shown in the fist picture. The next picture shows that we are now in deep enough to take a couple of whacks and give er a turn.
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Aaron, you're in Jack territory for sure. He fooled around with a very short holder/bit (5/16) strapped to his forehead. You can guess the rest. He never put it into action, however - at least not with me. Great work!
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Why not rappel down to the drill and finish the hole?
Easy enough, right?
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Why not rappel down to the drill and finish the hole?
Easy enough, right?
Ever hear of the Pinnacles ground up beef?
Hooks are pounded into the flesh, then it is lowered into the pit below Monolith to age slowly in a cool environment. Best stuff ever >:D
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Explore far corners of the park I haven't been to with JC all year long. Do more rebolting of routes with Bruce, JC and co.
Ever hear of the Pinnacles ground up beef?
Careful clink - this is what you could become if you don't stop the shenanigans and get your priorities straight!
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Careful clink - this is what you could become if you don't stop the shenanigans and get your priorities straight!
I will not settle for jerked beef, only tender and juicy.
The plus of steeper climbs is that your ass is pretty safe if you fall. Not as likely to hit any thing, as long as there is good pro a little higher than halfway to the ground(or ledge).
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I am pleased that the contingent of climbers that are capable of putting up routes far beyond the difficulty of what we are working on, plan on a ground up attack. Far as in way further.
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Oh the games we play.
Clink and I had a brief discussion yesterday about what areas retain the group up ethic. We assumed Pinnacles in the only place in California, but were not sure about anywhere else. Anyone know of other areas doing the same thing?
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Yosemite still has a strong GU ethic.
SPH is mixed, but most of the harder lines are TD, and the longer lines GU.
SoYo has a lot of GU activity despite the mag coverage of sport climbs, TC and Sharma visits.
But an exclusively GU area? Needles of South Dakota is one that comes to mind right away.
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Ever hear of the Pinnacles ground up beef?
Did the NPS start raising cattle and selling it? I still want Pinnacles bottled water....w Mud!
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F4, beef as in;
Beef Slang.
a complaint.
an argument or dispute.
Pinnacles-Ground Up-beef.
Trying to Steer You in The Right Direction! Get you mooving!
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... Get you mooving!
You deserve whatever you get after that one.
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Eeeewwwweeeeee, I'm sheepish about cattle jokes.
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Trying to Steer You in The Right Direction! Get you mooving!
This thread is gathering moo-mentum.
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Glad I can contribute something to the thread drift.
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Your speciality. :)