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Climbing and ... Climbing => Everywhere Else => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on December 06, 2013, 08:10:45 AM

Title: 7th Heaven
Post by: JC w KC redux on December 06, 2013, 08:10:45 AM

With Rob’s help (and tools) :) - I got to do my first FA’s in the Alabama Hills
I also want to thank KC, Dave and Bri.
Both FA’s were done onsight and drilled from stance.

The formation is The Mare – an easy ramp leads to a wide crack – then a pillar/saddle and a few face moves to the summit.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cDpWXjFrR349fTIqGdo_M_xwlZ7EFaJCzWIehpXGV6ai7gMM64ySZWKlfKnS-pzCDWDCDA4qFbv1976h1jiUL0QnwaHAHLtWNk0Ls9xRBpd8kKrgz92R40yetaEOBkfiu0K4sKfkLv28ZZZpIWvuVC=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)



Battling to get Back in the Saddle 5.8*

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fME3hns-0ZFM5ozMVUGCVwJIg-oWYpCZJUM1FmQpCma18OP8hemX3DCV_FB06rCDJ-1QIutOg5a8emc56CjrrUDi8oVJfL0XBgbZkCh3vxAAnvxnR_uTv1F_jWIErD58i3XoBUngjZAQJXH4BBABZN=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)



Drillin’ from atop the saddle horn

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cmFk6Qm5IvXptZYP2c_Yj675Gk9QHgpCDxA-gLiMGqgwZcSf4dJXdAj5BpU27dFuXsUwFUq2JVjA0epw3-6PBkKqqos36GOca70d5pRjolBOdnXrt9LJTJKmPiw2RSwr5bOiuGg22XkAozfCeQqGE2=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)



Rob snags the FFA/redpoint of his new climb We’re Gonna Need a Bigger Bolt 5.7** on The Grain Shark

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fcueBNfSh379FBq2JQOQZ8Uyz7gXG6fVNcVBalvs3jeS_rsoxW-eSakugWXrCwLnbBu_d52n0wrXRGHWHUp660GlznC-UDNxbPG9Fh73zKBWC_h2WPwndWiAzlLFq4kxSDfXpbm520cd6Z25VVlva5=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)



I got to establish a climb on the Grain Shark – stance drilling the second bolt on Remora 5.5*

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eYqu_LwARHCN3VGeJ7aX3a-gLX8ReWzaCa0qa7adgafXfsGpy8wy_OisnEFoVq9oj9O0HY0vnWD06s_5DMjbKIliXk7G1rJwQCUJG1UiYAw7BSDNVa5UcTgD9c7fx8BWF-3x5vwYg3JZSkksUy9g1T=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)



The bolted slab portion of Remora – a committing groove (see next pic) leads to the shoulder and then up the slab.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eQN-EvAGN-Mwoix43MFOyQnlQK9yqyS20o9aIV9NqPY7gm6k6JsGOLCgZKATxgdwdndxWgqhS0LYJcARjEtmXAT8gZfUfsJSpnqpceGglppoILg7fOEnMOmNPWyJDVEuAP4bdvGjO0AxEqhhFtmESA=w398-h509-no?authuser=0)



KC did the second ascent of Remora – I suckered her into it :).

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3czrbZTsz8dhh6vLHuPxoRVU498PEhfZ5qPIZ4zs5JOwvwLc05oP6_xDwyrw1mROwP3PiXU88epqjoeRYRmTyvKro8o2_4KcVqkQraPl8cm8Yrqic1t2v8m44hVecZx_qQe5gJCWTYuY202ZO-zxwkh=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)

Title: Re: 7th Heaven
Post by: mungeclimber on December 06, 2013, 08:57:08 AM

How long before the calves relaxed? :)


btw, 2nd ascent is true, but the usage context is atypical. I would describe the process I used as an FFA, or just "redpoint of his new route." 2nd ascent begs the question, who got the first ascent? By omission implying I didn't do the FA in the usual usage of the term 2nd ascent where the highly coveted 2nd ascent is done by another team who usually validates the rating, or provides feedback on it.

Title: Re: 7th Heaven
Post by: JC w KC redux on December 06, 2013, 01:12:38 PM

Quote from: mungeclimber on December 06, 2013, 08:57:08 AM

How long before the calves relaxed? :)
I would describe the process I used as an FFA, or just "redpoint of his new route."

Too bad I wasn't wearing shorts to expose the cut of the calf burn!

Corrected the verbage :)