MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on November 18, 2013, 10:14:14 AM
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KC and I had our first experience hand-drilling bolts yesterday with Brad and Bob at Crowley Towers. Brad and I had scouted the line last year. We rigged a rope to make access to the base of the route easier (3rd and 4th class) - and got to work.
Bob got started on a belay bolt.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eK-iCBbPn5BDGrz5S6o0cQQ1I8XgVg47IM_BrIKeK82gM_1sf3iEa9SC-rnndS19LceEe0TX2-lqWWCMjeZteCEHplXIvCUupks_1qMuJKRreSK4yQA8GSmH_8czPvXEAC6uRVLiyCf2NE8nochm5B=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
Meanwhile, I surveyed the start of the route and placed some pro to get to the first drilling stance.
Brad also placed a piton in the start of the crack but decided to remove it later.
Time to commit
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dn796OY6NwqCVSNPY_CasBt1UmRGNCaSkbgOSZbglY6rfoSYerjmOF6T4lGZ9jrpN3SUCHQaJL0KP5cBaxrYv8DnGnl5sLPMSLhrLisZDqCL592uYRRsBT8qalIgpUnB9leymbzkPs5r6UNl1PykSH=w500-h571-no?authuser=0)
My choice for the location of the first bolt resulted in an awkward stance that was not allowing me to get any leverage.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f6YVnY_izlPZT-sA4p3edeiBEFyakz-w75W55CSEPro_W2uPJobjDmCF_WSQqWrPBxDFGRuNxcwgFFPM_u3MJBBZcccuaK22y99AOqyYYIjcqCoQVH6A_27mYFI-AfovynzRtNzdlqRcD9G8pQPGIs=w500-h587-no?authuser=0)
I struggled with it for a long time and managed to get the hole started. My progress was excruciatingly slow. After making little further progress and feeling the need for a rest and refuel, I decided to down climb so Brad could take a turn. Brad managed to find a different and very strenuous stance where he was able to wail on the drill in short bursts and placed the first bolt.
I pulled the rope and led back up to place the second and third bolts and eventually finished the route.
I will NEVER look at a bolt the same way!
J.C. drilling on lead:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/10954296156_4986e1d30e_c.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7399/10954470553_4be4c48a3f_c.jpg)
And topping out on a Pinnacles first ascent:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7458/10954253825_8a2ba39edf_c.jpg)
KC was the first to follow the route. We dropped the rope so Brad could lead it and Bob followed. I got started on an anchor bolt and was quickly joined by Brad. We installed a two bolt anchor with equalized chains on the summit.
KC joined in the fun – helping to drill one of the anchor bolts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3efIZclz8xeCXEAEQD6894Aa9NFXvICsZzhQMy0caTh7ZZlMxrt-jcoMV8E2g_4HXyVQ8HD1IItMfV1cLHGT8AhStAgplLhlC4NksS8TM3FCVDt-H-nd5ilL2azdNSTw6Jgfrd30TxfgoVa-lSNxvur=w469-h625-no?authuser=0)
The new route. S Curve 5.7 – more details to follow in the New Routes sticky.
The yellow line shows the approximate approach path.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c4S1uLKVwjO-J7-L-A0CSxkYfvViOvNdTizgKRZRtQnHwgbTy6oqMETqfm8MHE-zHfBXrlek4Ux7B9wQ1ERfqVwfeOJsKBM4W032GPUFwB_-uVvKzbqUZHMwGmauyGeaQPxOJcD2LE3CtkGK7JvEP0=w530-h525-no?authuser=0)
Heading out to beat the sinking sun after a very satisfying day! Thanks everybody!!!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3duC7cLeX2D7L8U9yi-lqyZfT9xjO9GXQUOzFpk9bTybyzhU9fFYieingaTUGQUb-tJsvA5fB5sbZ-PReIun69GDrjy3qMpM7JJHg5iMP6qH3yYX5jqk-mTdPbMHddb1divD12Bb-i3uSNXJw5rklsM=w750-h563-no?authuser=0)
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nicely done!
was just a matter of time.
Now you can rebolt to your hearts content too. :)
oh, and make sure you stay off my projects, both real and imagined. ;)
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I got my nap in during bolt #3.
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That's awesome.... pretty soon all you will want to do is put up new routes.
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Congrats!
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I got my nap in during bolt #3.
You earned that nappin' with your tappin'...
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A fun route in a nice location. John, you did a great job placing good bolts. I like the name too. All in all, another excellent day at Pinns.
Any chance you could re-post or edit those photos so they are larger? Speaking of photos, I got some good ones of you drillin' on lead, but I only just got home, kissed by relevant parties and then showered. I'll get to the camera after I unload the car.
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J.C. drilling on lead:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/10954296156_4986e1d30e_c.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7399/10954470553_4be4c48a3f_c.jpg)
And topping out on a Pinnacles first ascent:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7458/10954253825_8a2ba39edf_c.jpg)
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Brad - I did an edit to enlarge my pics and get everything in one place - thanks for getting those excellent shots!
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The shots look much better.
BTW, we were using Hurricane drills. I've got the Rocpec, but I've only used it once. It weighs half as much, and it's quicker to change out bits, but I ended up swearing my fool head off every time the thing pinched me. It's not worth it.
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Cool looking route guys!
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Cool looking route guys!
Thanks Josh. It's all about the orange.
BTW, I should add that Josh took the time to completely refurbish my Hurricane drill for me about a year ago. Just as a favor. He did a wonderful job, and I am still grateful.
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we were using Hurricane drills.
Nice - I just put in a request to Luke - looks like he has the drill in stock but no HD bags yet...
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It's not worth it.
Ever thought of using a small piece of climbing tape? Works every time and still weighs less.