MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: JC w KC redux on November 03, 2013, 09:56:45 AM
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Fabulous Day at Tuff Dome yesterday
JC onsights Tuff Dome Reg Rte Direct Start 5.7
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e6GhIAMF7x2BLQThNB_MlJO5xP1hT_Biv016_llHS6LtRLe16UTuqwwVzd33UN1dK0r_phGXytG8Ovzewk1iPlqzMABpsZZNfLWcT4bBui3I6spxB22c0nCN5HSBz0HHqAM45Q38fX-SHwm8ASfqBD=w350-h466-no?authuser=0)
KC, April and James following the Tuff Dome route
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eG3UzKUk7JFmDxHQ4fp58iVS-fgsQ3dIoEAfqJBGZwFcUvvc-rpYvmZ00QqQ2OSty4gi7TpaXyfuPltJ5iU-LaP1VxzJ6A-A0QxggRUG8lvLb423WvP7Xidazvot3dTpvvs6b_JvC8xVgGbcTHrO0h=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
From Tuff Dome Summit - can't top this!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3frcFVqqkeqPkyJm_-DJIX4vT3XWbUi4bol_ZS6xhR9BbODewyz0ERzzCPXBcJ4NcHe87n62DeEyFlmFoSGeAoF7fqhdczT4JQIqteOU0yqfXaBKY820b1izGqIWrLmFu9E05ht0qY-ZMWqsWHwCEh-=w800-h363-no?authuser=0)
KC led H&L’s Reg Rte 5.5***
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3c8uZk0--WIVo9hZbbMie9XxFfVHm7uz1mMIbET95B6Fw-CsRtkKFJK4rjp3464N9mt76e1i6cjB9bSHzCiOY3NpBelgArOKb852NmehZyiDwqmJXxK8c03DtnSjq9-PZsaHDleTlTZIdbOLBJXe-OK=w500-h375-no?authuser=0)
KC follows Stepping Stone 5.9
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fX8dBavpAgDpVHnTuuQqrHKw2sQaLnH-DDfdNQCnlGIg8-TGOoR8CLKMtF41C5_ervhHfFTUIHRs0FKOQdZgg-MzZXHpbCWCCgcQj3c0l0bRqde-OM1CM6iJTn1knJQ639n_KVmuiyIvKIPsyluEQF=w500-h375-no?authuser=0)
View of April and James on Rock Steady taken by JC from Stepping Stone summit
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dAQd1tADehdghwjWGytKTTFPmW630dzFBQ794aoNvL-ErNWCG74Nu2Rv-hGMgw8WlNKKOmGCgLiUcWOU45pWDYyFMShO9kzsNk36sAuu4AhAzhCNmzYaw99bcjeQhHxj0LM4cCXX4ltbt1tNIsagPv=w834-h625-no?authuser=0)
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You actually led Stepping Stone? Wow, that's likely the fourth ascent. Gavin and I each led it (with only one lead bolt) the day we put it up, and then he led it again the day we added the second lead bolt and the second top anchor bolt.
How'd you like it? I'll bet you agree with the no stars rating (but it was so obvious a line to the top of a then-unclimbed summit that it had to be done).
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You actually led Stepping Stone? Wow, that's likely the fourth ascent. Gavin and I each led it (with only one lead bolt) the day we put it up, and then he led it again the day we added the second lead bolt and the second top anchor bolt.
How'd you like it? I'll bet you agree with the no stars rating (but it was so obvious a line to the top of a then-unclimbed summit that it had to be done).
Agreed no stars. Definitely needs some cleaning up. Very committing stepping off the "stone". I spent a considerable amount of time choosing and testing holds. That joy knob is nice. Everybody else did it on TR. Kat agreed 5.9. April fell at the first crux after pulling off a small hand hold and thought it was harder than 9 but she is a newbie - only her 2nd time outside. James said he thought it was on the easy side of 9 but he was using a few holds that no way I would have trusted on lead - I was surprised they held. I think that because the route was already cleaned, he may have stepped up a bit left of the intended line - one that might not make sense on lead (too far left of the 2nd bolt). Thought-provoking and well protected with some intermittent choss wrangling.
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It's cool to see that people still climb in the High Peaks. So old school...
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It's cool to see that people still climb in the High Peaks. So old school...
the older the better bro' :)
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I'm just jealous. You climb so much cool stuff.
You are turning into the new Go-Go, pretty soon you'll take that crown from Joe.
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Where is Go-Go Joe?
Did he take that modeling job?
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Did he take that modeling job?
Yes, he was my instagram model last weekend.
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I'm just jealous. You climb so much cool stuff.
You are turning into the new Go-Go, pretty soon you'll take that crown from Joe.
Dude - you could climb this stuff too :)
I doubt I'll ever take Joe's crown...probably never be able to pull down that hard AND I prefer a shirt!...Brad referred to me as a Master of Mud - that's all I've ever wanted :0
Well...that and a few FA's so my name will go down in history somewhere - may likely be my only legacy...
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may likely be my only legacy...
In my mind, you have already created your legacy at pinnacles.
Barring the impressive quantity of onsight leads, you and KC have captured the essence of pinnacles history.
Plus, the orange shirt is a legacy in and of it's own ;D
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Seriously, I don't know anyone else that climbs there as many days per year as you do. Plus you take pics of all the choss.
you sure you don't need a shrink?
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In my mind, you have already created your legacy at pinnacles.
Seriously, I don't know anyone else that climbs there as many days per year as you do. Plus you take pics of all the choss. you sure you don't need a shrink?
Nice. Yes, I admit I have a problem - that's the first step right?
Sometimes I wonder what the hell I am doing when we're driving in...should be perfect weather this weekend :)
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There's choss up high too, maybe next year...
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7444/9072259809_56c24f1598_m.jpg)
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There's choss up high too, maybe next year...
The Window Pain looks nice :)
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can't say I recommend it, but it's a must do.
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can't say I recommend it, but it's a must do.
I've done Window Pain. I've also had two root canals. Root canals are like Window Pain in that they are also must-dos.
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I've done Window Pain. I've also had two root canals. Root canals are like Window Pain in that they are also must-dos.
I've done window pane and had one root canal :)
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lol
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We're straying from topic, but J.C. started the thread and started the straying.
Before I led Window Pain I thought to myself: "How could Robert be so stupid and lazy as to not put in an anchor at the top of the formation?" (Keep in mind that the second pitch tops out on the formation - the pitch is 5.5 or so - and then one down-climbs the same rock, back to the end of the first pitch, and a bolted anchor there).
Then I led the climb. I got to the top of the formation. While there my thoughts went like this: "holy God I'm glad Robert didn't try to put bolts in this thing - two hammer blows and this whole thing would collapse."
I carefully down-climbed.
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Or farted?
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That's one of those rewarding climbs, in a level 2, kind of way.
I know the mudders would like it. I'd love to take pics of any else that wants to get on it.
There are other mudder possibilities out there too.