MudNCrud Forums
Climbing and ... Climbing => Masters of Mud -- Pinnacles => Topic started by: mynameismud on May 10, 2009, 09:42:21 PM
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Went down to the Pins with a new climbing partner and rope gun. I rode the TR all day. My fingers are sore from the first knuckle to the pads.
Wet Kiss
Big Pucker
Rocket in my Pocket
Future Shock - TR attempt. After many hangs I managed most of the moves.
The Girls showed up so we headed over to the front side of the Monolith.
Monolith Direct - Woops I actually led this - Hmm someone must have been slacking.
Terranian Tango
Cataract Corner - After a bit I made it to the crux. Mudworm styled to the Crux.
Everyone did better than I, but oh it was fun. Pulling mud in the sun.
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If I didn't know better I'd say Mr Mud was Sport climbing!
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I got stuck doing long, multi-pitch, classics on granite.
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oh Brad...that sucks and trully sorry. Heading to the gulch on Wens PM/Thursday AM. It's gonna suck for sure!
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Yeah, I would really prefer Pinns - working toward that 800th route. Still, Voodoo Dome has some really nice routes. Summer Sojourn is long and solid 5.8 (Needles "5.7+"). White Punks on Dope is super, with one solid 5.9 pitch (Needles "5.8/5.9"). The rest 5.8.
Ended up there instead of Red Rocks, which had predicted highs in the high 90s!
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Ahhh...you went to the Needles! I love that place and haven't been out there in years. Both the routes listed are great.
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I wasn't sport climbing, I was top roping.
The bolt that protects the moves through the crux on Future Shock really need to be replaced.
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I tr'd that once....and by TR I mean I dogged my ass up that thing. That crux move was beyond my weakness.
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Some of the key beta on that is not to use the hole. It sucks you in but makes the route way harder. Move slightly left to some ok nubbins then reach to the right of the hole for a good edge. From there ya grab a sharp edge above the hole, then move up a bit then dead point for the large knob by the bolt.
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arrrg...of course I spent all the time front and center of the hole!!!!
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Mr. Mud forgot to mention that he brought three left shoes and one lonely right shoe on the trip. I had to give him props for having brought that right shoe. Nice job!
Sport climbing? Remember how high the first bolt on Monolith Direct is? Well, Mr. Mud skipped that one (he didn't see it). It made other people watching on the ground very nervous.
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That sounds like a solo. Does he subscribe to the "three points of contact" technique?
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Sometimes. :)
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"Some of the key beta on that is not to use the hole. It sucks you in but makes the route way harder."
spot on.
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I wasn't sport climbing, I was top roping.
Did the routes involve bolts....I rest my case.
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F4...by that definition no bolts would be allowed for the anchor either! That would be interesting on the Monolith!!!
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REALLY LONG slings would work
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yes....or just solo up and then downclimb. You only need a rope if you fall ::)
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F4...by that definition no bolts would be allowed for the anchor either! That would be interesting on the Monolith!!!
Isn't most if not all of the climbing on the Monolith Sport Climbing???
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not all pinns routes with bolts qualify as "sport" climbing. You need more and better bolts. Begs the question though in that what "makes" a route sport?
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sounds like a controversy in the making. post up
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lord...one Google search later I'd loose myself in a sea of lame ass RC.com threads.
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Let us not go there.
Climbin at the Pins is all that really matters. Bolts or no bolts.
F4 go climb HSMS, RB, CC, or TD and have your self some fun.
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Lottsa things I could call Dennis Erik, including:
1. Excellent friend;
2. Crotchety;
3. Great climbing partner;
4. Old;
5. Bad-ass leader;
6. Ugly
Sport climber or even almost sport climber do not come to mind. Not even way down the list.
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Perhaps #6 works. I managed to lead a 5.8, which isn't so badass, but thank you none the less.
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what about Feral?
;D
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If he is a sport climber, kill him!
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Finally a thread about climbing! Why go to RC and ruin a healthy debate?
Isn't there a little sport climber in all of us?? We all have some lycra in the closet. Some like Squiddo may have more. Heck I think Munge still has his JRAT capris.....
Sport climbing? Remember how high the first bolt on Monolith Direct is? Well, Mr. Mud skipped that one (he didn't see it). It made other people watching on the ground very nervous.
No, the 1st bolt is WAY left off the deck and then you traverse back and up. That's what I was told by 2x knuckle heads back in '89.....
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jrat capris?
pft
black lycra beeyotch
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1st bolt is to the right and always has been, I think you got a bit turned around. Either that or some sport climber was giving you beta.
;D
What happened to the good old days when sport climbers and trad climbers agreed to hate each other, yet still drank together. All this political correctness is ruinging it. Now we have to talk nice but can actually hate each other.
Somehow things got turned around.
I still have the hang dog hunters chair of choice, so watch out!
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1st bolt is to the right and always has been, I think you got a bit turned around. Either that or some sport climber was giving you beta.
Actually I'm serious. 2 knuckleheads I met once complainted about a route at the monolith and how the bolts were messed up. Later, when I saw what they were talking about I just about crapped my pants. They traversed over to Subterranean and then BACK over and up. Thank god for guidebooks, honest guidebooks.
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That sounds a bit crazy.